In-cosmetics Global and Skinobs invite you to join the free webinar dedicated to the "Best-Of" of the Testing & Lab Zone, on April 6, 2023 at 3 p.m. [CST].
The evaluation of ingredients, actives and finished products is at the heart of the cosmetics industry's business, at every stage of product development. Subjected to global regulations, influenced by the latest digital practices and new consumer habits, impacted by global environmental responsibility, and inspired by AI, virtual reality and 3D printing technologies, the world of testing is rapidly evolving.
The webinar will address the main aspects of this evolution through a review of the innovations presented in the Testing & Lab area at in-cosmetics Global Barcelona 2023, with contributions from PhD Trials, Miravex, Newtone Technologies, CIDP and Bionos Biotech.
Valentino entrusted the production of its e-commerce gift boxes to Rissmann, with the challenge of creating an elaborate 3D decor.
Under the aegis of the Valentino brand, Rissmann used its expertise to recompose the logo from embossed gold studs. The technical feat lies in the multi-level gold hot stamping finish.
The use of uncoated matte paper, printed in deep black, is also noteworthy. The glossy varnish finish enhances the luxurious look of these boxes while protecting them over time. The Valentino logo, gilded in hot foil, marks these exceptional e-commerce boxes.
Emulium Dermolea MB, Gattefossé's new plant-derived O/W emulsifier, was officially launched at in-cosmetics global 2023 in Barcelona. Emulium Dermolea MB reduces skin stress and provides long-term soothing thanks to its unique lipidic composition rich in sterols and triterpenes. This new ingredient has been developed using Gattefossé's expertise in wax butter technology, and is composed of candelilla, rice bran and jojoba waxes.
The starting point
Exposed to environmental stresses, the skin's surface lipids are strongly impacted. The skin's barrier function is altered, facilitating the penetration of irritants and increasing insensible water loss (IWL). As a result, skin becomes dry and sensitive, with the appearance of redness and tightness. In addition to discomfort, altered skin barrier function can lead to a burning sensation when applying cosmetic products.
There is a growing need for soft, soothing textures that reduce the skin's sensitivity to aggression and enable the use of skincare and make-up products without reaction or discomfort.
A real ally for sensitive skin
Gattefossé is proud to present Emulium Dermolea MB, its latest O/W emulsifier of natural origin, a real ally for sensitive skin. Composed of plant lipids close to those on the skin's surface, rich in anti-inflammatory triterpenes and pentacyclic sterols, Emulium Dermolea MB forms a light, skin-compatible film, proven to reduce environmental stress on the skin. Highly moisturizing and protective, this ingredient reinforces the skin's barrier function and provides a long-lasting soothing effect. Emulium Dermolea MB is easy to use and multifunctional, making it possible to formulate a wide range of cosmetic applications suitable for all skin types and climates. Able to emulsify up to 40% of fatty phase, it can be used to create a wide range of textures, from spray to thick butter. It is suitable for skincare, make-up, suncare, hair and scalp care formulas. It comes in tablet form, making it easy to use. " Skin sensitivity is a growing problem worldwide. That's why we set out to develop an ingredient that would enable us to formulate textures with proven soothing properties. Once again, Gattefossé's chemists drew on their expertise in functionalizing plant waxes to produce a high-performance O/W emulsifier. Cosmos-approved, suitable for vegan formulations and fully objectified in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo, this new ingredient will meet the current expectations of formulators and consumers alike. We are delighted that Emulium Dermolea MB has been shortlisted for the "best ingredient award" in the innovation zone at in-cosmetics global, and look forward to officially launching this product at the show! "explains Lysiane Teyssier, Product Manager - Textures and Cosmetic Applications at Gattefossé.
Biology laboratory nature and science, plant and environmental study, DNA, gene therapy, and plants with biochemistry structures on white backgrounds. Generative AI
Two years ago, we announced the formation of a new consortium "DNA & Cosmetics", whose objective is to guarantee the traceability of plant raw materials. As a proof of the cosmetic sector's will to reinforce transparency and security of supplies, a new step was taken at the beginning of March with the signature of a pre-consortium agreement by the historical actors. This new phase is accompanied by a call for applications from companies, cosmetics groups and ingredient suppliers, wishing to join the first cosmetics consortium dedicated to the traceability of natural resources through DNA analysis. This consortium is built around DNA Gensee, a company specialized in plant bio-technologies founded in 2012. The company has just announced that it has raised €600,000 in funding to support its growth and to meet an irreversible demand for its genetic analyses of plants. With its own DNA analysis technologies and those of its network of highly innovative partners, DNA Gensee offers manufacturers unique tools and a complete solution to meet the major challenges and current risks :
demand for traceability and transparency by consumers who increasingly require proof of the origin and quality of products,
risks linked to fraud, particularly in the supply chains of certain raw materials such as spices, hemp, honey, spirulina, teas, aromatic plants, perfume plants, etc.
the need to reduce environmental and social impact through more rational and sustainable supply (UN and Convention on Genetic Diversity objectives).
Actors in the cosmetics sector who share the same values of rigor and respect for the consumer and the planet can cooperate and participate in this approach to contribute to the common good and enhance the value of the industry.
6 out of 10 French people have already left a place because they didn't like the smell.
Scentys, the French expert in airborne fragrance diffusion for the past 20 years, unveils the results of a study on the relationship that the French have with the scents that mark their daily lives.
Consciously or unconsciously, scents act on our state of mind. But what impact do home fragrances really have on our daily lives? This is the question that Scentys wanted to answer through this study, conducted last June with BVA.
Odors, an increasingly important element in all places
A very large majority of French people say they are rather sensitive (49 %) or even very sensitive (29 %) to odors of any kind. They therefore attach great importance to the smells in the various places they frequent: at home of course (87 %), but also in a hotel (83 %), a restaurant (78 %) or a store (73 %). 60% of them have even left a place where they did not like the smell.
Home fragrances, a vector of well-being
For the French, home fragrances have a rather positive image: they give them a pleasant (46 %) or relaxing (28 %) feeling. 54 % of respondents have adopted them in their homes; and if half of them try to mask unpleasant odors (kitchen odors, pet odors...), three quarters (76%) do it simply for their well-being.
A habit that now follows them even in their car: 32 % of French people use scent diffusers, always for their pleasure and well-being (77 %).
The French are in favor of diffusing home fragrances in the places they frequent
More and more places that welcome the public are using the diffusion of room fragrances or pleasant smells. This practice is welcomed by the French: nearly half (45 %) consider it a good thing and that this experience is rather pleasant.
"Smells play an extremely important role in our relationship with the world. comments Pierre Loustric, president of Scentys. "An American study has shown that humans retain only 1 % of what they touch, 2 % of what they hear, 5 % of what they see, but 35 % of what they smell. It is not surprising that the diffusion of perfume, in the home or in places where the public is present, has such an impact on our state of mind.
Derived from environmentally friendly plant processing technology, this new active ingredient mimics the natural benefits of light to revitalize skin and improve mood. Derived from Sanguisorba officinalis, an herb used in traditional Chinese medicine, it enhances vitamin D by distributing and activating receptors to increase skin's natural radiance.
Clariant Actives & Natural Origins has launched Rootness Mood+, a new advanced skincare active that leverages the proven effects of light and concentrates them in an eco-friendly extract.
Natural light provides essential health benefits, from preventing seasonal affective disorder to improving sleep. In low light regions, people suffer from winter depression and low mood. Skin disorders are more common than in areas with higher light levels. Dramatically, about 75 % of the world's population is vitamin D deficient due to excessive time spent indoors.
Rootness Mood+ can enhance the benefits of sunlight, improving mood and evening out skin tone. It reactivates the skin's natural glow and improves skin tone by triggering the skin's photoreceptors, opsins, and may also help increase the effect of vitamin D in the skin by upregulating vitamin D downstream pathways.
"Our modern lifestyles make us forget about the need to spend time outdoors, which has direct effects on the appearance of the skin. Rootness Mood+ can mitigate the effects of seasonal variations and reduced sun exposure by cosmetically replicating the benefits of light on the skin, providing a way to improve skin beauty and tone," said Julie Droux, Global Technical Marketing Manager for Actives and Natural Origins.
Rootness Mood+ is derived from the roots of Sanguisorba officinalis, a plant used in traditional Chinese medicine. Commonly known as the great burnet, the plant grows "in the sight of the sun". Grown under aeroponic conditions, using patented, eco-friendly Plant Milking technology, this special new active ingredient is also highly sustainable.
Clariant will be at in-cosmetics Global 2023, from March 28 to 30 in Barcelona, on booth Q10.
The brand will host two conferences:
March 29, 09:15-09:45 / Sustainability Corner The science of sustainable beauty that helps preserve natural environments Speaker: Julie Droux
March 30, 09:20-09:50 / Theater 1 Emotional beauty: a step towards the benefits of light, internal balance and happiness Speaker: Julie Droux
IFF today announced the launch of Aurist AGC, a new biodegradable cationic biopolymer for improved hair conditioning, in hair care products. Aurist AGC is the first personal care ingredient derived from IFF's patented Designed Enzymatic Biopolymers (Deb) technology, which uses advanced biotechnology to create a new class of biosourced polysaccharides with unique structures and product characteristics.
The Deb process operates at ambient temperature and pressure without the use of harsh solvents, thereby reducing overall energy consumption. Manufacturers will now be able to respond to increased regulatory and consumer pressure to replace some traditional polymers with sustainable materials. Polysaccharides developed using this technology can be designed to be biodegradable and can improve the performance of beauty and personal care products.
" Aurist AGC demonstrates the potential of the new Deb platform by utilizing IFF's extensive biotechnology capabilities to provide sustainable, high-performance beauty solutions that can truly make a difference in this industry" Johan Jansén-Storbacka, director, Personal Care, IFF, said. " Consumers no longer have to make trade-offs between sustainability and performance. "
Aurist AGC is part of the new Aurist functional line, which includes natural and nature-inspired ingredients designed to provide established and new sensory profiles and benefits in a wide variety of applications such as leave-on, rinse-off, skin care and hair care.
" Aurist allows us to bring our cutting edge science and large scale manufacturing capabilities to functional ingredients in the beauty and personal care space" Piera Pericu, business segment leader, Personal Care, IFF, said. " Consumer demand for effective and environmentally friendly products is rapidly transforming this industry. The ingredients in the Aurist line are inspired by nature and feature sustainable and natural credentials to allow consumers to do more good while looking good. "
Earlier this year, IFF launched Aurist GHI, an all-natural rheology modifier extracted from guar bean. Aurist GHI shows excellent synergies with other hydrocolloids to provide high viscosity solutions, even at low concentrations, while offering a smooth sensory profile. It is easy to formulate, can be cold processed and can help reduce energy and production costs for beauty and personal care manufacturers. This allows cosmetic formulators to reduce the total level of use of rheology modifiers in their final formulations.
From groundbreaking new launches to the latest advances in hair care and skin health, meet Solvay at in-cosmetics to discover how to embrace sustainability without compromising performance. Solvay, a leader in naturally derived ingredients for beauty care formulations, has announced a full range of functional and sustainable ingredients that will be highlighted at the upcoming in-cosmetics Global 2023 trade show in Barcelona from March 28 to 30. Targeting beauty care creators from around the world, Solvay will showcase a broad portfolio of innovative ingredients and formulations for hair and skin care at booth V10. In addition, Solvay's beauty experts will present its latest wellness cleaning solutions in a technical seminar and hold a conference on fermentation as a technology for a sustainable future.
" As an industry leader in natural and naturally derived polymers and specialty surfactants, we support our customers in the beauty care industry with scientific, formulation and application expertisesays Jean-Guy Le Helloco, global vice president, Home & Personal Care, at Solvay. " Our portfolio helps formulators create multi-sensory, multi-functional products designed to enhance consumer experience, wellness and health, while having the smallest environmental footprint."
The main trend driving the beauty industry is sustainability, which Solvay is addressing with a wide range of biodegradable, biosourced, ethically sourced and renewable ingredients and formulation solutions with a low carbon footprint, as underlined by its commitment to beauty for the planet.
In hair care, the company's portfolio aligns with current lifestyles and community needs, such as textured hair, extending hair health to scalp care and "skinifying" hair care with skin care-inspired ingredients. On the other hand, Solvay's innovative skin health and cleansing solutions address functional health and mental and emotional well-being, while responding to the trend of solid formats to minimize waste and the overall product footprint with "bring your own" (ByO) water-based cleanser concepts.
The company's exhibit at in-cosmetics 2023 will be led by the recent launch of Polycare Heat Therapy, a new naturally derived active ingredient that protects hair from thermal damage caused by high-temperature appliances such as straightening or curling irons and hair dryers . This new product complements Solvay's existing performance ingredients for hair health, including Polycare Split Therapy for the repair of long, damaged hair, and Polycare Frizz Therapy for the discipline and long-lasting shape of straight and curly hair.
The Solvay stand will also focus on gentle and environmentally friendly cleansing solutions, from ultra-low salt surfactants for sensitive skin to taurates and sulfosuccinates for sulfate-free formulations, as well as our new biobased and biodegradable glycolipid biosurfactants Mirasoft SL 100 %, manufactured through a cost-effective fermentation process. This line includes Mirasoft SL A60 and Mirasoft SL L60, recently certified as "microbiome friendly" by MyMicrobiome. This certification has also been granted to Dermalcare Lia MB, a circular, siliconized alternative.
Meet Solvay's beauty care team at booth V10 during in-cosmetics 2023 to discuss the benefits these and other innovative ingredients can bring to your formulations, and don't miss the company's live lectures at the show:
On March 28 in Theater 3 from 10:35 to 11:05, Caroline Mabille, Global Marketing Manager for Beauty Cleansing Solutions, will hold a seminar on "Cleansing solutions that promote the well-being of consumers and the environment", and on March 28 from 4:00 to 4:30 pm in the Sustainable Development zone, Caroline Mabille will join Eric Leroy, Global Marketing Director, Beauty Care, to present "How can fermentation technologies advance the beauty care industry?
You have been waiting for it! Our international special issue is out! Discover in a magazine in English all the solutions gathered around the great theme "Save the planet!".
Interviews, reports, news, testimonials, expert opinions, etc. Find a wide range of inspirations and concrete solutions so that the perfumery and cosmetics industry can do its part.
This issue is freely available in direct download here. Would you like a printed version? Pick it up at the in cosmetics Global trade show in Barcelona or receive it directly at home if you are a subscriber !
The beautiful waterfall streaming into the river surrounded by greens
Eco-responsibility is one of the major expectations of today's consumers. Even though geopolitical conditions and their current inherent crises have a general impact on global consumption and economies, attention to respect for the environment has never been more important. The observation is known and although warnings about climate changes began to resonate in the 70s, manufacturers in the cosmetics value chain have relatively recently begun to integrate this new vision into the development of their activities. The slogan "Save The Planet" is vast and specifically concerns a myriad of sectors, whether it is respect for biodiversity in the sourcing of active ingredients, the Nagoya Protocol, the integration of increasingly natural ingredients, attention to controversial and dangerous substances, upcycled formulas, organic labels, the reduction of energy consumption during production processes, the development of solid products, the reduction of packaging, new recycled or upcycled packaging... Developments in the industry are strong and rapid, but the regulatory framework may not be evolving as quickly as they are. "Beyond the formulation, eco-responsibility is gaining ground in the field of testing in various ways. First, we can note an evolution of tests carried out on humans towards more ethics, protocols with a propensity to alter the skin of volunteers being replaced by new methods such as can be seen for tests to evaluate sun protection indices. The latter, in fact, evolve towards hybrid methods without application of erythema on the subjects. In general, the development of the offer of in-vitro and ex-vivo tolerance and efficacy tests, thanks to increasingly sophisticated test supports with, among other things, the addition of neurons or capillaries (sensitive skin, aged skin) allows new opportunities for testing and evaluation of the mechanisms of action of active ingredients and finished products." We were then able to observe the integration by the first laboratories of the EcoVadis certification, such as CIDP in Mauritius, confirming their ambitions to put sustainability and ecology at the heart of their testing activities. This accreditation makes it possible to see on four categories of classification: Environment, Social, Employee Well-being and Ethics. More directly, the preclinical and clinical evaluation sector provides support to the eco-responsible approach of the beauty sector through the offer of various tests from the physico-chemical characterization of formulas, the search for allergens and harmful substances (endocrine disruptors ...), the evaluation of container-content interactions, ecotoxicology tests (marine, terrestrial or aquatic) or biodegradability
The ecotoxicology of solar products
Let's now focus on the evaluation of ecotoxicology in the service of the validation of active ingredients and sun protection care. Most consumers today are extremely sensitive to the impact of the use of cosmetic products on the environment. We are even witnessing the emergence among younger generations of consumers who refuse to use certain products if they do not meet environmental protection criteria such as sunscreen products and their impact on aquatic environments, marine life or corals. The Hawaiian archipelago has seen the gradual disappearance of corals and their marine life caused by the pollution of certain chemical compounds present in sunscreens. In 2015, a study by the University of Central Florida proved that oxybenzone was responsible for coral bleaching and disrupting the development of a new ecosystem. On January 1, 2021, Hawaii banned the over-the-counter sale of sunscreen products containing oxybenzone and octinoxate, chemical compounds considered particularly "dangerous" to the balance of the underwater environment.
A vertical shot of small colorful fish swimming around beautiful corals under the sea
A recent review of environmental contamination and potential health impacts on aquatic life of the active chemicals in sunscreen formulations published in March 2022 in the Australian Journal of Chemistry by Nial J. Wheate, showed that the level of sunscreen chemicals found in samples varies considerably by region, the time of year (higher during the summer months), and the time of day. This publication confirms numerous studies. It is now known that chemicals in sunscreens can have potential estrogenic hormonal activity and hormonal effects, or that they can act as teratogens, or alter gene regulation, induce changes in the production of antioxidants and free radicals, and cause coral bleaching. This article clarifies that when damage occurs to reefs and animal life, there are often other related causes that can impact aquatic life, such as changes in water temperature, water turbidity, high nutrient levels, or the presence of pesticides and drugs. Not all sunscreens have been studied for their impact on underwater life and it may not be appropriate to make generalizations about sunscreens and their ability to cause harm to aquatic life. Sunscreen products protect the skin from UVA and UVB damage mainly through the scattering or absorption of UV rays. Sunscreens are formulated with a variety of ingredients and chemicals, including oils, surfactants, fragrances, preservatives, and filters. These filters come from two types of chemicals: metal oxides (zinc or titanium) or organic chemicals.
The Zebra Fish model
In ecotoxicology tests, zebrafish larvae have been included in most studies and are recognized as a standardized model. Easy-to-use and inexpensive zebrafish share some genetic, physiological and anatomical similarities with mammals and are commonly used to study the effect of chemicals on vertebrate embryonic development. Since they have transparent bodies, direct visualization of organ development is easier. To evaluate endocrine activity, embryos are used as a support for in-vitro assays to measure the thyroid activity of an ingredient or formula. A fluorescent biomarker reveals endocrine activity. In this model, thyroid signaling is revealed by a change in the level of fluorescence of larvae in the brain with an increase in case of pro-thyroid effect and a decrease in case of anti-thyroid effect. Each sample is tested alone or co-treated with a reference. This co-treatment allows the activation of the thyroid axis of the larvae and therefore the detection of synergistic or inhibitory effects. The results can be expressed in hormonal equivalents. This analysis makes it possible to identify the concentration of thyroid hormone T3 which gives an effect equivalent to that of the sample as well as the concentration of testosterone or flutamide. In addition, for marine ecotoxicity, there is an ISO standard (16712) that allows the study of acute amphipod toxicity, Corophium Arenarium, determining the acute toxicity of marine or estuarine sediments to amphipods. Marine or estuarine amphipods that typically live below the surface of sediments may also be exposed to contaminated sediments. The endpoint of this test is the percentage of mortality. Salinity and temperature vary depending on the amphipod species used.
In addition, we are seeing the emergence of initiatives by consulting firms that allow a more responsible monitoring of the ecotoxicity indices of cosmetic products. For example, the French company Toxiplan offers beauty manufacturers an eToxiSafe ecolabel that establishes, through ecotoxicological studies, that a product has a reduced impact on the environment. It is proof of a commitment to environmental protection, and transparency on products. This label is established from the analysis and interpretation of experimental data and also from in silico data (predictive tests carried out from computer modelling). The eToxiSafe eco-label is the result of a calculation of the environmentally safe concentration.
The study of the life cycle of cosmetic products
In recent years, when 17 million consumers in France use an application to scan the composition of cosmetic products, brands are increasingly explaining their consumer protection approaches and making it more visible. In France, 25 players in the beauty industry, representing a thousand companies including the Pierre Fabre Group, Aroma-Zone, the Rocher Group, Léa Nature and professional unions such as Cosmebio and Cosmed, joined forces to create the Green Impact Index Consortium. Initially developed by the Pierre Fabre Group in 2021 to measure, improve and indicate the environmental and social impacts of brands' cosmetic products, this index analyzes the life cycle of products through six stages: raw material, manufacturing, transport, distribution, use and end of life. Thus, this consortium has designed this index to help consumers make informed choices, in accordance with their convictions. The actors of this consortium have therefore joined forces, under the coordination of Afnor Normalization to revisit the methodology and develop a tool for environmental and social display of beauty products. A methodology that is intended to be simple and accessible, even to the smallest companies, and which should be available at the end of the second quarter of 2023.
But this consortium is not the first of its kind to see the light of day. Initiated in September 2021 by the French groups L'Oréal and LVMH, the Brazilian Natura & Co, the German Henkel and the Anglo-Dutch Unilever, the EcoBeautyScore consortium, whose objective is to launch a common rating system for the environmental impact of beauty products, now brings together some 50 groups and brands such as Beiersdorf, Coty and Estée Lauder. This consortium is working with the consulting firm Quantis, to "ensure a robust and scientific approach". The objective is to co-construct an evaluation methodology and a scoring system that will be guided by and articulated around the following 4 principles: - A common method for measuring environmental impacts throughout the life cycle of products, based on the principles of the "Product Environmental Footprint" (PEF, the scientific method of the European Union). - A common database on the environmental impacts of standard ingredients and raw materials used in formulas, packaging and during use. - A common tool for assessing the environmental impact of each product, and usable by non-specialists. - A harmonized rating system that will allow companies, on a voluntary basis, to inform consumers about the environmental footprint of each cosmetic product. The methodology, database, tool, and rating system will be verified and monitored by independent third parties.
From an operational perspective, he is also supported by Capgemini Invent (project management) and Mayer Brown (legal advisor). The 50 members of the EcoBeautyScore Consortium started working together, divided into thematic working groups. A prototype footprint and rating was planned for the end of 2022, providing an environmental rating for certain product categories initially. TheEcoBeautyScore Consortium is an open initiative and calls on all players in the beauty sector to join it regardless of their size or financial resources. All companies will be able to benefit from pre-existing work, and are invited to bring their own experience. The Consortium is also committed to consulting with external experts, including scientists, academics and NGOs to ensure that this process is as inclusive as possible. The work, developed by the Consortium, will be made public and may be used, on a strictly voluntary basis, by both the members of the Consortium and any other interested party. Finally, we observe that at the beginning of 2023 the cosmetic industries around the world reveal a real motivation to engage in the preservation of our planet. The tools that will be developed will be available to all companies and will allow through collaborations with organizations and testing laboratories to strengthen the various approaches to environmental protection. The news is good, the projects are launched, and the industry is becoming aware of its responsibility to consumers to have a better grasp of these subjects. These steps take time, but we can hope that the momentum launched by all these actors will offer a rapid and operational implementation that will make it possible to move forward in a more serene future.
