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BGene becomes a company with a mission to serve the cosmetics industry virtuously

Since its creation in 2014, BGene has been developing new processes for the production of aromatic molecules for the cosmetics industry, which is now in search of naturalness.

This innovative company has chosen to work with wood residues to produce biosourced ingredients and offer a real alternative to intensive cultivation and petrochemical products that are harmful to the planet and to humans.

BGene has received several awards and grants for its positioning and research in biotechnology, and has always placed environmental and societal impact at the heart of its thinking. Today, it is quite natural for the company to become a company with a mission to prepare for its increasingly virtuous transition to scale.

BGene 9 years of R&D for a virtuous cosmetic production

Since its creation, even before the Pact law came into force, BGene has put its environmental convictions at the heart of its R&D project. The biotech start-up is developing new methods for producing ingredients for flavor and fragrance manufacturers, offering an alternative to intensive agriculture, monoculture, the use of pesticides and the excesses of plant extraction.

" We want to offer cosmetic actors a new possibility of sourcing ingredients, namely molecules of natural origin produced in laboratories from renewable raw materials as an alternative to plant ingredients with a high environmental impact or those derived from petrochemicals."explains Marie-Gabrielle Jouan, CEO of BGene.

BGene specializes in synthetic biology and works with natural, renewable raw materials that are not in competition with food. While most scientific alternatives are currently based on refined sugar, BGene works with residues from wood processing, a position that is almost unique in France. This makes BGene part of a true circular economy, from plant residues to cosmetic ingredients.

" What synthetic biology allows is to teach micro-organisms how to make an ingredient from a natural raw material in order to produce it and supply the cosmetics industry all year round in sufficient quantities, while respecting the environment, insists Marie-Gabrielle Jouan, CEO of BGene

BGene has therefore developed an innovative technology for production by bacterial fermentation, Today, the big names in the cosmetics industry have noticed that product composition and naturalness have become powerful purchasing levers for their consumers.

BGene prepares to scale up and become a mission company

BGene is a biotechnology company that has set itself goals of excellence since its inception. To further its virtuous approach, BGene now publicly states its raison d'être: to serve the ecological transition by developing tomorrow's more sustainable and environmentally friendly production methods for bio-based molecules.

Composed of 28 complementary scientific profiles in bioinformatics, genetic engineering, bioprocess industrialization and innovative project management, this team has a pool of skills capable of designing high value-added aromatic molecules that meet the challenges of today's bioeconomy and energy transition.

BGene has therefore defined three main statutory objectives: to limit the impact of its activity on resources, to guarantee a more environmentally friendly process and to transmit and share BGene's scientific knowledge.

By becoming a company with a mission, BGene is committed to the transparency and traceability of its innovations to serve the ecological transition.

While BGene already works for the big names in cosmetics to offer its know-how in the form of R&D partnerships, the start-up wants to produce its first batches of ingredients this year. 

Within the next 3 years, BGene aims to increase its workforce once again in order to establish its transition to scale and aim for industrialization.

Seppic launches Sepibliss Feel, a soothing ingredient for well-being

Confirming its know-how in the creation of soothing active ingredients, Seppic completes its offer for sensitive skin with an ingredient dedicated to holistic beauty: Sepibliss Feel.

At a time when feeling good has become as important as looking good, Seppic creates Sepibliss Feel, an active ingredient that works on the skin and well-being for a holistic beauty experience.

Sepibliss Feel is a patented natural oil extracted from coriander seeds sourced in France and produced by a specific process to guarantee good skin safety. Its high percentage of petroselinic acid, a fatty acid known for its soothing properties, makes it an ingredient with unique properties.

Seppic's research teams have tested its effectiveness in innovative in vitro models to demonstrate:

● An effect similar to that of acupuncture (reduction of an oxidative stress marker)

● A protection of the production of happiness molecules (β-endorphins and oxytocins).

● Soothing properties (Inhibition of key factors in the inflammation process and neuronal protection).

Tested in formulation on volunteers, Sepibliss Feel provides a nourishing, soothing and comforting effect that was not detected for the placebo. 63% of people also perceive a feeling of well-being when using the formula containing Sepibliss Feel against 35% for the placebo formula.

Sepibliss Feel is Cosmos and Natrue approved with a naturalness level of 100% according to ISO 16128. It also complies with Chinese regulations (IECSC and IECIC).

Caroline Baptiste, Group Asset Manager at Seppic, said, " Sepibliss Feel is an ingredientoriginal active ingredient that innovates in the objectification of holistic beauty. It is a natural oil that provides comfort to consumers by acting on both the skin and their well-being. This ingredient therefore comes from complement our In & Out approach with a grade available in nutrition and is in line with the vision of Seppic to help everyone live well and healthy in a healthy environment.

25 new members join Cosmetic Valley

The Board of Directors of Cosmetic Valley met on April 11, 2023, in person in Chartres and by video. It validated the membership of 25 new actors of the sector, 23 members and 2 associated companies.

Who are these new members?

These are 25 companies from the following French regions: Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, Centre-Val de Loire, Occitanie, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, Bretagne, Grand-Est, Île-de-France, Normandie, Nouvelle-Aquitaine and Pays de la Loire.

They represent various categories of activities in the perfume and cosmetics industry.

- Brands" category

o Dermabel Cosmetics France, dermocosmetics made in France, vegan, supported by patented clinical studies. (Occitania)

o Equilibre (Studio LR) Sale of products based on natural plants and hemp CBD: CBD oil well-being, cosmetic oil, bath salt, infusions. (Great East)

o Liquide Imaginaire: the creation, manufacture and marketing of all forms of perfume products (Île-de-France)

o Nunii Laboratoire: dermocosmetics associated with 3 patents filed and 1 in progress. (Île-de-France)

- Raw materials" category

o Intact Régénarative, develops vegetable proteins from legumes and neutral alcohol from legumes from regenerative and organic agriculture (Centre-Val de Loire)

o YIFIXIA, develops cosmetic ingredients, in particular natural excipients from agricultural and agri-food co-products. (Occitania)

- Formulation" category

o Calyxia, produces biodegradable microcapsules by their patented technology. (Île-de-France)

o Denis & Fils, develops and manufactures own-brand and full-service fragrance products. (Pays de la Loire)

- Services" category

o Predicitv, uses artificial intelligence to improve product formulation, consumer test performance and successful product launches. (Île-de-France)

o Tilkal. has a traceability and transparency platform for Industry 4.0 supply chains (Île-de-France)

o Zozio. has a platform for optimizing industrial performance, traceability and environmentally responsible production. (Île-de-France)

o Eudrac France, advises on regulatory affairs and international registration strategy. (Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur)

o Super Jeanne, accompanies entrepreneurs and established brands in the creation, development or optimization of their perfume and cosmetics projects. (New Aquitaine)

o Zenmon Labs, supports managers and leaders in retaining talent and improving their performance by training employees in emotional/relational control to reduce stress (New France)

- Industrial & Laboratory Equipment" category

o L.V.M Printing Machine, manufactures screen printing, hot stamping and pad printing machines for the cosmetics and perfumery industries (Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes)

o Volvendis. designs and installs industrial equipment, industrial mixers & laboratory agitators, the Volmix (Centre-Val de Loire)

- Packaging & Logistics" category

o SCN. performs all types of co-packing services (assembly of several components), labeling, sleeving, filming (Normandy)

- Category " Tests and Analyses

o Actalia SensorieL, offers consumer and sensory studies, training and consulting. (Normandy)

o Innov&Sea offers in vitro marine ecotoxicity tests to evaluate the impact of finished products and cosmetic ingredients. (Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur)

o Microsept Laboratory, microbiological analysis laboratory and Training and Consulting Center. (Pays de la Loire)

o Neurokyma offers an innovative solution, based on neuroscience, to evaluate the emotional benefit of a cosmetic product during its application. (Brittany)

- Packaging" category

o CV Pack, designer and manufacturer of printed packaging and communication supports. (Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes)

o Tijil's Sérigraphie, specialist in printing on cylindrical objects, plastic, glass or metal (Pays de la Loire)

The 2 associated companies :

o R&D Technology, designs and manufactures innovative production equipment, custom solutions in robotics, special machines, unit or series (Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes)

o GAC, accompanies its clients to meet their financial and HR challenges and their control of the entire chain of innovation. (Île-de-France)

The neomist brand reinvents itself and gets a new look

Created in 2012 by pharmacist Christian Sarbach and his teams, neomist is the first cosmetics brand to use the wpe (or "Water Plant Emulsion") process in all its products. This unique technology, patented worldwide, consists of a microemulsion of oil and water, allowing the formulation of cosmetics and perfumes with natural ingredients and very high concentrations of active ingredients.

In the spring of 2023, neomist will completely overhaul its range and move towards responsible and eco-conscious cosmetics, in line with its values and commitments, while retaining its DNA as an expert in plant-based care and the wpe technology at the heart of its formulas.

A new concept: conscious cosmetics

neomist conscious cosmetics is the alliance between technology and nature for care products that are both innovative and environmentally friendly.

The formulations combine active ingredients of natural origin with ancestral benefits and scientific rigor, supported by the research of a dedicated team of experts. Respectful of the skin and the planet, neomist formulas are established according to very precise specifications, with a chemical signature reduced to a minimum. Beyond the content of its products and the effectiveness of its care products, neomist has also initiated a 360° approach to reduce its environmental impact as much as possible.

A clean, minimalist and efficient skincare routine

The new neomist skincare line includes three revitalizing products: an eye care product, a face fluid and a face cream, designed for an overall anti-aging action.

Made in France (in Plessis-Robinson) and composed of 98% of natural ingredients, neomist products are free of phthalates, silicone, alcohol, allergens, endocrine disruptors, and substances that are harmful to the environment. The formulas have been designed to go to the essentials, without unnecessary active ingredients, in order to obtain the shortest possible Inci lists. All the products have a 100/100 rating on the Yuka application and are vegan.

Always with the desire to limit the superfluous, neomist products are made on demand, and therefore available to order only on its website, in order to avoid any unnecessary storage, but also to maximize the freshness and effectiveness of the active ingredients.

Strong ecological commitments for more responsible cosmetics

The brand began by calculating its carbon footprint using the Carbo application, in order to find ways to improve its environmental impact, from the design of its products to raising awareness of good practices among its employees.

The neomist bottles, made of purple glass, are made from natural, reusable and 100 % recyclable raw materials. No more secondary packaging, the products are now nestled in linen pouches made in France, manufactured in a work center, thus favoring social integration. neomist has also chosen to eliminate all notices in its products. The information can be found directly on the bottle (on FSC certified paper labels) or on the website.

In order to limit the waste linked to e-commerce, neomist has chosen to work with the start-up Hipli, which offers reusable packages up to 100 times. The brand pays part of the price of these packages, which are more expensive than traditional shipments, in order to encourage its customers to make the most ecological choice possible and support neomist in its environmental approach.

I believe in a beauty routine reduced to the essential, which our unique formulation process allows us to do, to create multi-action products. With neomist conscious cosmetics, we are paving the way for simple, effective cosmetics that respect the planet and the skin. "Marc Bonnevay, co-founder of neomist and winner of the CEW France Achiever Award for Innovation 2023.

Verescence launches Glass Score, a lightweighting rating scale for more sustainable luxury bottles

Verescence, the world leader in luxury bottles for the perfume and cosmetics industry, announces the launch of Glass Score, a tool to help reduce the environmental impact of glass bottles during the design and development phases.

With Glass Score, Verescence offers its customers the possibility to evaluate the lightness level of their products without the influence of the capacity. The scoring system assigns a score ranging from A+ (the lightest possible) to F for each bottle, allowing brands to compare their products on a universal scale and to work on new lightweighting projects.

The average perfumery and cosmetic bottle on the market is between B and C grades, and Verescence's objective is to help its customers achieve a more virtuous Glass Score by proposing realistic weight reduction objectives that respect the initial design of the project.

Samuel Joachim, Director of Innovation and Development at Verescence, comments: " GlassScore is a simple and efficient tool that allows you to know the level of lightening of a bottle orof a glass jar, to propose lightweighting solutions and make informed choices in terms of eco-design. This initiative has already generated a lot of interest from our key customers. "The launch of Glass Score is part of Verescence's "Glass As a Service" program, which aims to offer a full range of eco-design services to its customers since 2017: Life Cycle Assessment (LCA), recyclability study and 3D modeling.

Seppic reveals the effectiveness of Solagum Tara for more natural hair care

Today, the hair care market is evolving with consumer demand for more naturalness, in line with the "Conscious Beauty" trend. According to Mintel, naturalness claims in these products continue to grow strongly over the past five years.

In response to this trend, Seppic offers formulators more eco-designed ingredients for hair products, such as Solagum Tara, (Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum). This natural gum from Tara seeds with high thickening power has demonstrated performance equivalent to Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC), commonly used in hair care, while offering a better profile in terms of naturalness and sensoriality. Indeed, Solagum Tara is 100% of natural origin according to the Iso 16128 standard and easily biodegradable according to the 301F standard of the OECD.

seppic information new data solagum tara haircare.002- Formulation - Product info
Figure 1 - Formulated as a rinsed hair mask, Solagum Tara offers a smoother, more beautiful, less lumpy texture.

In a more minimalist formulation approach, Solagum Tara is also a great ally for hair formulas because, in addition to thickening, it plays a role in controlling volume and frizz in curly hair care.

seppic information new data solagum tara haircare.003- Formulation - Product info
Figure 2 Evaluation of hair smoothing maintenance and volume control of Solagum Tara on curly Brazilian hair, type IV, in an aqueous leave-in gel. Photo T6h after treatment.

Seppic introduces "Beauty Party", its new collection of music-based formulas

On the occasion of In-cosmetics Barcelona 2023, Seppic invited to discover "Beauty Party", six new formulas, presented as a music festival, inspired by six musical trends - classical, rock, reggae, reggaeton, pop-electro and rap.

Consumers are looking for well-being and also for opportunities to share. And what better way to get together than with music? Just as music is born from the art of combining notes, cosmetics combine the knowledge of formulation while appealing to the senses and emotions. Through its Beauty Party collection, Seppic is inspired by this universal art and combines creativity and technicality to offer ever more sensorial cosmetics.

"Rock your mask is one of those formulas. Inspired by rock music, it nods to the makeup of a famous band. This creamy black purifying mask is presented in the original form of a stick. This formula contains Montanov 202, a glucolipid emulsifier, which texturizes and stabilizes the oily phase while helping to cleanse during rinsing. The bio-sourced emollient Emogreen L19 provides a fresh sensation and promotes spreading with a soft finish. Micro Algae 80 adds a gentle exfoliating effect to this mask and Antileukin 6, a fat-soluble active ingredient, soothes, strengthens and protects the skin.

"My hips don't lie" is a body cream that pays tribute to the warm rhythms of reggaeton. It nourishes and moisturizes the skin during the massage. The glucolipid emulsifier, Montanov 202 brings an immediate hydrating effect to the skin. Emogreen L19 takes part in the sensoriality and the massage of this enveloping texture. A duo of polymers, Sepilife G305 (new hybrid polymer with high naturalness - launched in In-cosmetics 2023), and Solagum AX, stabilizes and brings sensoriality. Three active ingredients complete this body care product: Lumipod, a leucine-based lipoamino acid that activates tanning, Kalpariane, an oily and firming active ingredient derived from brown algae, and Aquaxyl, a moisturizing, patented sugar complex.

"Symphonic feelings", face cream inspired by classical music, is a true sensory symphony. A study was able to highlight and characterize the precise sensory expression of each excipient contained in the formula. This formula contains Sepibliss Feel, a natural oil from coriander seeds dedicated to well-being (launched in In-cosmetics 2023), and Ceramosides HP which protects the skin from loss of elasticity. Sepimax Zen adds thickness to the cream, and the duo Montanov 202 and Solagum AX gives glide during spreading. Emogreen HP 40, gives unctuousness and leaves a film on the skin.

Climate strategy: the L'Occitane group presents its net-zero roadmap

L'OCCITANE Group reveals its ambitious Climate Strategy

Through a Climate Strategy the L'Occitane Group is committing all its brands to an ambitious objective net-zero carbon. With a focus on further reducing its greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions by 2031 and achieving net zero emissions by 2050, its goals have been validated by the Science Based Targets (SBTi).

SBTi encourages companies to address the climate challenge according to what scientists believe is necessary to meet the goals of the Paris Agreement.

With this commitment, we are seeking to achieve ambitious goals. While our company has many cards in its hand to transform its production units, its products and its distribution, we will have to invent solutions together, with consumers and our partners, to bring about this low-carbon world "Adrien Geiger, Director of Sustainable Development for the L'Occitane Group, explains.

Roadmap based on three pillars

Since its first carbon footprint in 2008, the Group has had data covering all sources of emissions (direct and indirect), which is essential for the development of a roadmap based on three pillars

1.  Reducing emissions from energy consumption

The L'Occitane Group aims to reduce by half the GHG emissions linked to the energy consumption of its own sites (factories, warehouses, points of sale), mainly through the use of renewable energies and energy efficiency and sobriety. In 2021, 95% of the electricity consumed will come from renewable sources. 

2.  Reduce emissions for which responsibility is shared 

These emissions are more complex and relate in particular to the supply, transport and use of products. They require solutions to be found with partners, suppliers and customers, as illustrated by the eco-design policy for products and the sustainable logistics policy. The Group also plans to eliminate the use of air freight by 2030.

The product use phase accounts for a large proportion of the Group's GHG emissions, due to the consumption of hot water by users to rinse products. In order to innovate and support consumer habits, the Group is now a member of the 50L Home which seeks to encourage responsible water use.

3.  Preserve and restore ecosystems to neutralize residual emissions

By 2030, the Group intends to neutralize its residual emissions. This is why, since 2020, it has been investing in projects to preserve and restore ecosystems, thereby contributing to the sequestration of CO2. EUR 45 million has already been committed through the Livelhood Carbon Fund (LFC3) and the Climate Fund for Nature.

Sulapac launches Sulapac Luxe, a new eco-responsible material for luxury perfume closures

Beauty brands are looking for eco-friendly alternatives to conventional plastic packaging - but high-end brands have high-end requirements. With its wide range of applications, Sulapac's expanded product line allows cosmetic brands to achieve their sustainability goals without compromising on quality or aesthetics. Today, Sulapac is expanding its offer with a brand new biosourced material perfect for perfume closures.

As part of the development of its range of packaging products for the cosmetics and beauty sector, the award-winning biodegradable materials start-up Sulapac is launching Sulapac Luxe, a new biosourced material perfect for replacing hard plastics, including ABS plastics. This new material meets the requirements of leading brands in the cosmetics industry who demand packaging solutions that are both environmentally friendly and able to maintain the feel, functionality and aesthetics of their luxury products.

"One of the major challenges for beauty brands is that they have to consider very strict performance criteria when they consider replacing conventional plastics, explains Colin StrobantInternational Sales Manager at Sulapac.

With Sulapac Luxe, we are demonstrating that conventional plastics can be easily replaced without having to make concessions in quality. We have listened to our customers about the challenges they face. This new material has undergone an extensive development process to ensure that it meets the performance requirements of the luxury sector.

Resistance to temperature fluctuations, high density, ceramic feel and sound, smooth and shiny surface: these are some of the characteristics of this material. And it just so happens that luxury brands attach great importance to these characteristics. Sulapac Luxe is not only recyclable, but like all Sulapac materials, it can also be made with recycled content, another important criteria for many luxury brands, according to Colin Strobant. "Sulapac is a pioneer in biobased and recycled materials, and our goal is to use only recycled bioplastics and polymers within five years." says the CEO and co-founder of Sulapac, the Dr.Suvi Haimi. Made of industrially compostable materials, Sulapac Luxe leaves no microplastic or permanent toxic load behind.

Several high-end beauty brands have already expressed interest in this material and are considering using Sulapac Luxe with their existing glass bottles or jars. The material is commercially available and fits seamlessly into existing injection molding production lines.


Eco-responsible solutions for various applications and production technologies

With its expanded product range, Sulapac's customers can now create packaging for different sectors such as skincare creams, make-up products and fragrances. Shiseido's Ulé line uses Sulapac for its closures, and it is far from alone as a wide range of skincare brands from Lumene to Manik package their products in Sulapac jars. The wide selection of materials and production techniques allows brands to choose between a matte, glossy or satin finish, as well as a wide range of colors.

The successful launch of Schwan Cosmetics' BetterBarrel last year, and Toly's highly acclaimed Infinity Line for compact powders manufactured with Sulapac, further demonstrate the versatility of Sulapac's offering. Sulapac is also developing high-end solutions in collaboration with Chanel, including eco-responsible bottle caps created exclusively for the Les Eaux De Chanel fragrance line and the lid for Chanel's N° 1 cream.

In addition to materials used for injection molding and extrusion, Sulapac's range includes solutions for thermoforming that allow cosmetic companies to create environmentally friendly transport trays and displays, as well as solutions for 3D printing that allow for eco-friendly prototyping.


Regulations and ambitious sustainability goals are driving brands to adopt bio-based and circular solutions

The demand for environmentally friendly solutions continues to grow as the search for alternatives to some conventional plastics widely used in cosmetic packaging, notably thermoset materials, becomes more widespread among companies. These non-recyclable materials may be subject to restrictions under the European Commission's forthcoming Regulation on packaging and packaging waste (EPR). National restrictions are also expected for certain materials, such as ABS plastic, and these restrictions will undoubtedly push companies toward more sustainable solutions.

"We are pleased to see the positive movement within the cosmetics industry as more and more brands are moving away from conventional plastic. Our job is to make this transition as easy and beneficial as possible - for the brands, their customers and the environmentsays Suvi Haimi.

In Sulapac materials, the characteristics of sustainability, circularity, functionality and aesthetics are uniquely combined. This allows our cosmetic customers to truly achieve their sustainability goals and meet regulatory requirements while promoting a premium image and an impeccable customer experience."concludes Colin Strobant

Aptar Beauty supports its know-how with a new creation for Guerlain: the Evolux pump

High-end technology that enhances the consumer experience

Aptar Beauty, a world leader in distribution systems, is once again collaborating with Guerlain to develop a high performance and luxurious pump for its new foundation Terracotta Le Teint. 

The result of strong ties forged over the years, Aptar Beauty stands out by offering a customized service at the House: numerous tests were carried out with Guerlain's innovative formula to ensure optimal compatibility between it and the Evolux pump. 

Aptar Beauty's best-seller, the Evolux premium pump is designed for the luxury market. Its engine, also called "Alpha", is made without POM (polyoxymethylene) and is the only engine on the market perfectly adapted to the specificities of new generation formulations such as Terracotta Le Teint. 

A luxury consumer experience

For this new collaboration, the Evolux pump is adorned with an anodized metal finish that exactly matches the House's emblematic golden hue. Finely engraved on the push buttonThe double G, the brand's emblematic symbol, can be found.

Terracotta Le Teint" is the first liquid powder launched by Guerlain. Its formula, containing 95% of natural ingredients, offers 24-hour hold without transferring. Available in a wide range of 30 shades, it combines the lightness of a Terracotta powder with the perfecting power of a liquid foundation for a radiant healthy glow.

Parure Gold Skin Matte is the perfect combination of makeup and skincare for an unmatched youthful glow. With its ultra-sensorial melting texture, Parure Gold Skin Matte is formulated with 85% of rejuvenating skincare base, for a sublimated skin, application after application. Manufactured in France at the Aptar Le Neubourg site, Evolux is adorned with an anodized metal finish in the exact shade of gold emblematic of the House of Guerlain. The double G, the brand's symbol, is finely engraved on the push button - an elegant finish that complements the product's luxurious aesthetic. Terracotta Le Teint was launched in March 2023.

Patrick Bousquel, Emea Beauty Marketing Director at Aptar Beauty: "This collaboration with Guerlain has made it possible to obtain perfect compatibility between the formula and the system of distribution, preserving the integrity of the product and improving the experience consumer."

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