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TechnicoFlor launches FlorIndex, a unique ecodesign tool for perfume formulas

TechnicoFlor, a French, family-owned and independent perfume composition house specialized in the creation of perfumes for the biggest names in perfumery, cosmetics and hygiene, launches FlorIndex, a tool for the eco-design of perfume formulas, a real innovation in the profession.

Created by TechnicoFlor's teams, accompanied by ecodesign experts, FlorIndex aims to evaluate the impact of the formulas created by the group's perfumers, mainly on the environment, but also on the societal level and the
health. It is the only tool that is able to measure the environmental impact at almost every stage of the fragrance development cycle: from the sourcing of raw materials to the end of the fragrance's life, including formulation, production and transportation. " By choosing 38 indicators to evaluate 9 criteria, themselves divided into 3 main stages, we have built the most complete tool to date "explains Maxime Gransart, deputy general manager of TechnicoFlor.

The criteria used include the weight of responsible raw materials, CMRs and endoctrinian disruptors, the weight of the solvent, the energy required for production and the impact of transport. But also the biodegradability of a formula or the measurement of its toxicity on the environment and health. The other great strength of FlorIndex lies in the fact that this tool is scalable: it can easily adapt to regulatory changes and integrate future new criteria.

" Today's consumers have different requirements: if they don't want to compromise on efficiency, sensoriality or creativity, they are now looking for products that are healthier, greener and more natural. For them of course, but also for
also for the environment. This is why they ask for more transparency on the composition of the products they use, whether in cosmetology or perfumery
"says Maxime Gransart. TechnicoFlor has developed FlorIndex to meet this double requirement - more responsible consumption and transparency.

The result? A complete tool in the form of an ecoscore, giving the perfume a grade from A to E. The final score and that of the different stages of its development cycle are visualized so that the consumer has all the necessary data for his
understanding. And that's not all: " with the aim of constant improvement, perfumers also have access to the possible points on which they can make progress in order to move towards an ever more responsible creation "concludes François Patrick Sabater, president of TechnicoFlor.

Hebelys wins Ringier Technology Innovation Award

Hebelys, a biotechnological active ingredient developed by Greentech, received a Ringier Technology lnnovation Award, one of the most prestigious prizes in the Chinese cosmetics active ingredients market.

The Ringier Awards recognize innovative and promising active ingredients for the Chinese market. They are assessed by a jury on 4 criteria: efficacy/scientific data, safety, cost-effectiveness and sustainability.

This award for Hebelys is a positive signal for French biotechs, and attests to the value of a holistic approach to skin care. Hebelys is an active ingredient derived from advanced biotechnologies, designed according to a systemic approach, specifically to meet the cutaneous and emotional needs of women of the silver generation, or to accompany women towards positive ageing from their fifties onwards, like the guardian of their golden years.

Origin

Ferment of Sphingomonas sp. a golden extremophile microorganism capable of surviving in stressful environments thanks to its high metabolic plasticity, obtained by optimized fermentation (metabolic orientation).

Mechanisms of action

Hebelys targets the mechanisms that accelerate skin ageing: oxidative stress and cellular senescence pathways (p21/p16) leading to the appearance of "zombie" cells. It limits SASP (senescence-associated secretory phenotype), notably the secretion of pro-inflammatory factors, thus helping to limit the deleterious effects of "zombie" cells. What's more, Hebelys has a rejuvenating effect on the dermal matrisome, creating an environment with a rejuvenating effect on cells.

Benefits: sublimates skin and emotions

Hebelys offers a holistic approach to mature skin care, acting on both :

- 4 physical impacts of aging on the skin: smoothes wrinkles, brightens and evens skin tone, improves texture and tones skin;

- 2 cognitive impacts: boosts self-esteem and positive emotions.

Shiseido, Sekisui Chemical and Sumitomo Chemical collaborate to establish a circular economy for plastic cosmetic containers

Shiseido Company, Limited (Shiseido), Sekisui Chemical Co, Ltd (Sekisui Chemical) and Sumitomo Chemical Co, Ltd (Sumitomo Chemical) are to launch a joint initiative to establish a circular economy for plastic cosmetic containers, in which used plastic cosmetic containers are collected, converted into resources and materials without sorting, and recycled into plastic cosmetic containers.

Cosmetics containers are made from a wide variety of plastics, as emphasis is placed on content protection, ease of use and design. As a result, it's difficult to sort cosmetics containers for recycling, making it a major challenge to recycle them into plastic resources. To solve this problem, Shiseido, Sekisui Chemical and Sumitomo Chemical have agreed to collaborate in setting up a new system for collecting used plastic cosmetic containers and recycling them into new cosmetic containers, drawing on their respective expertise.

Shiseido will implement a new collection system for plastic cosmetic containers in retail stores, and use recycled polyolefin (1) for its cosmetic containers. Sekisui Chemical will use BR ethanol (2) technology to convert used plastics into ethanol, a raw material for plastics, by turning combustible waste into gas without sorting it, and converting the gas into ethanol using microbes. At the same time, Sumitomo Chemical will manufacture ethylene (3) from this ethanol using renewable ethanol-to-ethylene technology, and produce polyolefin products from the ethylene of equivalent quality to conventional polyolefins using fossil resources.

The three companies will drive this cross-sector alliance forward, while calling on related industries and businesses to join the effort, and strive to create a circular economy.

(1) Polyolefin: Generic term for certain types of plastic (synthetic resins), such as polyethylene and polypropylene.

(2) BR ethanol technology: A technology that gasifies combustible waste accumulated in unsorted waste disposal facilities and converts the gas into ethanol using microbes without the application of heat or pressure. BR stands for biorefinery.

(3) Ethylene: A raw material for synthetic resins such as polyethylene and for organic compounds.

Important product recalls for micro-problems

Catch microbes before they become a problem and work to implement a microbial contamination control strategy. The view of Anne Wagner, PhD, Technology and Market Development Manager for Charles River's Microbial Solutions division.

Manufacturing is often seen and talked about in terms of its efficiency. We've all seen those news reports or commercials showing conveyor belts with bottles filled and packed in seconds. Speed and efficiency are essential to manufacturing, but it all falls apart if it's not based on product quality.

Consider the manufacturing of household and personal care products. These are not "sterile" businesses, but non-sterile does not mean non-quality. One of the biggest antagonists to consumer product safety is microbial contamination. If microbial contamination occurs in your plant, a series of events are triggered to respond, sanitize and remediate the problem, costing time and money. But sometimes the contamination goes undetected and reaches the market, causing a recall with a larger, broader impact. From 2014 to 2019, the vast majority of FDA-requested recalls-78 %-were due to microbial contamination (see illus). Safety Gate, the EU's early warning system, has also detected microbial contamination issues over the years. Not all microorganisms are pathogenic, but products must be free of microorganisms that cause damage.

Notorious culprits behind recent product recalls

Several high-profile incidents of microbial contamination have led to product recalls in recent times. These include Pluralibacter gergoviae and Cronobacter sakazakii. Pluralibacter (Enterobacter) gergoviae is a bacterium commonly found in water. It is classified as an opportunistic pathogen of low risk to healthy people, but can cause infection in people with weakened immune systems. P. gergoviae is of particular interest to the consumer products industry because of its acquired ability to escape common cosmetic preservatives. A publication by M. Periame in the Journal of Applied Microbiology revealed that P. gergoviae has evolved so well that it now has multiple mechanisms, including detoxifying enzymes, flagellin expression, and altered cell membrane structure, to survive in the presence of common cosmetic preservatives. As microorganisms like P. gergoviae become more "intelligent", we must also adapt to keep them out of consumer products.

Another notorious microorganism that has made its way into food and consumer products is Cronobacter sakazakii. Like P. gergoviae, it is also an opportunistic pathogen. In fact, these two microorganisms were previously in the same genus, Enterobacter, but were later classified into separate genera as taxonomy improved. Cronobacter sakazakii was discovered from human clinical isolates and was found to be resistant to desiccation. C. sakazakii has been found in domestic environments and foods. Infections have been reported in elderly and immunocompromised individuals and it is also a high-risk organism for infants when it is found in and contaminates infant formula. In a recall notice issued by the FDA in March 2022, a major producer of powdered infant formula discovered Cronobacter sakazakii in its product and then in its manufacturing facility, resulting in a massive recall and supply chain issue.

Contamination of infant formula with C. sakazakii can put infants at risk for infection, sepsis, meningitis, and necrotizing enterocolitis. 7 Proposed sources of C. sakazakii may be from poor manufacturing practices and contaminated raw materials or from human sources.

Test early and still upstream for microbial contamination

Microbial contamination is not necessarily homogeneous in the product and can have varying rates of growth, so you must be careful not to miss it. Unfortunately, even with final product testing, microbes can go undetected. Testing earlier in the manufacturing process and further upstream to ensure raw material quality and water purity, as well as implementing effective cleaning practices and good manufacturing practices can have a significant positive impact on reducing microbial contamination. These practices are all part of good industrial hygiene designed to find the source of a problem before it gets out of control.

To make a simple analogy, it's like going to the dentist every six months for a regular checkup. By looking early, you can spot a small cavity and fill it before it gets worse. But if you don't spot it and ignore it, that cavity can turn into a painful root canal. Preventive measures can keep small problems from getting bigger.

Recall is the worst-case scenario, but microbial contamination can impact all facets of a business. When a product fails microbial release testing, corrective action is costly, revenue is lost, and manufacturing plants can be shut down, significantly impacting the company's supply chain. In the case of a recall, the same monetary losses occur, but the impact is broader, with very public notifications, and depending on the microbes, the contamination can cause consumer illness and even, in some tragic cases, death. Customers demand quality and it is the manufacturer's responsibility to deliver on that promise of quality. This means catching germs before they become a problem and implementing a microbial contamination control strategy, which means monitoring your environment with modern technology to detect microbial contamination more quickly and accurately. By implementing all of these safeguards, you ensure that your product is of higher quality and has a safety profile that you can guarantee to your customer.  

The Palace of Versailles creates the Perfumer's Garden thanks to the patronage of Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Maison Francis Kurkdjian has become a patron of the Château de Versailles to support the creation of the Perfumer's Garden. Located in the Châteauneuf orangery, in the heart of the Trianon estate, this garden will bring together hundreds of floral essences and will open its doors in the spring of 2023.

The result of an exceptional synergy between the Trianon gardeners and Francis Kurkdjian, the Perfumer's Garden will present hundreds of fragrant essences in the spirit of the 17th century Trianon gardens.

Historical plants (roses, jasmines...), some with original smells (chocolate, apple...), others with bad smells and "silent" flowers such as hyacinths, peonies and violets will compose this exceptional garden.

Visitors can also learn about the history of perfume at the court of Versailles. From the 17th century, when Louis XIV had the Porcelain Trianon built, which later became the Grand Trianon, flowers became fashionable and the gardens of Trianon were abundantly supplied with flowers with strong perfumes. At the same time, perfumes became the object of a real craze at the court of Versailles, which became, at the end of the 17th century, the cradle of the profession of perfumer.

Francis Kurkdjian's career has long been intimately linked to the Palace of Versailles. After training at the Versailles perfumery school, he reinterpreted Marie-Antoinette's perfume "Sillage de la Reine" a few years later, based on historical documents. In 2006, Marc Chaya - co-founder of Maison Francis Kurkdjian - and Francis Kurkdjian worked together to create the olfactory installation "Soleil de Minuit" for the Versailles Off festival. Finally, during the Grandes Eaux Nocturnes 2007 and 2008, the perfumer created an olfactory experience in the gardens of the Château.

With the Perfumer's Garden, visitors will discover Versailles in a different light thanks to a bucolic visit in the heart of a garden that was previously closed to the public.

Albéa underlines its commitment to circularity

At the PCD trade show, Albéa is reiterating its "reduce.reuse.recycle" program. On the stand, the team will be presenting eco-responsible solutions combining aesthetics and functionality.

Albéa Tubes: reducing plastic use by cutting weight

Albéa is showcasing EcoFusion Top, the two-in-one solution specially designed to visualize material savings. Fusion of the tube head reduces the weight of the tube by 55 % compared with a standard tube - with an equivalent benefit in terms of the packaging's carbon impact. The system is manufactured in HDPE to guarantee mono-materiality and recyclability. EcoFusion Top is available with a wide range of skirts for laminated and extruded tubes.

Albéa Tubes will also be presenting an extensive range of recyclable PE caps, taking another step towards its goal of achieving 100 % of recycled tubes by 2025. Albéa's PCR platform offering tubes with different PCR percentages - from 30 % to 100 % - and the new generation of Creenleaf laminated tubes ready for recycling will also be among the solutions highlighted this year.

Albéa Cosmetics & Fragrance: Desirable and responsible packaging

Albéa is accelerating the use of post-consumer recycled (PCR) materials in its rigid cosmetics packaging to reduce the environmental impact of using virgin raw materials.

One of the latest examples is Breizhstick, a four-piece stick made of single-material polypropylene (PP), ready to be recycled and meeting several beauty pack criteria such as lightness, shape differentiation and mechanical resistance. The name Breizhstick is a nod to the Breton identity, as it is manufactured in Plouhinec, Albéa's European center of excellence for lipsticks. The first all-PP guided stick, its components perfectly match the creamy formulas of lip balms and lipsticks.

The team will also be presenting a wide range of PCR single-material jars for skincare creams, made from full PP and therefore ready for recycling. Another PCD novelty: a unique collection of flexible mascara brushes made in Albéa Bottanuco, for extra-gentle application while adding volume and definition.

Verescence receives the EcoVadis Platinum Medal and improves its overall score to 80/100

Verescence, world leader in glass bottles for the perfume and cosmetics industries, has been awarded the EcoVadis 2022 Platinum Medal for its environmental, social and societal leadership. This is the highest distinction awarded by EcoVadis, the platform for assessing corporate social and environmental performance (CSR).

Verescence in the top 1% of best-rated companies in 2022

With a score of 80/100, the Verescence Group improves its overall score by one point compared to 2020, and is included in the closed circle of 1 % top-performing companies, a position the glassmaker has held since 2018.
Its three French sites (Mers-les-Bains / Abbeville / Écouché-les-Vallées), its two North American sites (Covington / Sparta) and its Spanish site (La Granja de San Ildefonso) also maintain their platinum medals in 2022 with a score of 83/100, while its South Korean subsidiary Verescence Pacific obtains the gold medal for its very first evaluation just over a year after joining the group.

The EcoVadis rating is valid for one year, which commits Verescence to continuing to improve its CSR policy in order to maintain its platinum status.

A "leader" level in the EcoVadis carbon scorecard

The EcoVadis carbon scorecard provides an independent assessment of a company's greenhouse gas emissions performance and management system. Verescence has achieved the highest level of performance: leader.
In early 2022, the Science Based Targets (SBTi) initiative validated Verescence's decarbonization trajectory to reduce its CO2 emissions by 40 % by 2034, and recognized it as compatible with the scenario of limiting global warming to well below 2°C compared with the pre-industrial era, in line with the recommendations of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) and the Paris Climate Agreement. As the Group's objective is to achieve carbon neutrality by 2050, Verescence is committed to redoubling its efforts to ensure that its climate transition plan converges towards a 1.5°C trajectory.

VPI creates the connected spray cap for the new women's fragrance Fame by Paco Rabanne

In July 2021, Paco Rabanne launched its first connected and refill fragrance: Phantom. The designer called on VPI's expertise to create the connected spray cap for the bottle of his new generation men's fragrance. For the launch of its new women's fragrance, in the same line, it has once again called on the know-how of the French company specializing in the injection and assembly of aesthetic plastic parts.

VPI works hand in hand with brands

Faiveley Plast Beauty (VPI) is committed to long-term relationships with brands, as demonstrated by its new partnership with the perfume house Paco Rabanne. Having met the challenge of the ultra-thin connected spray cap for the men's fragrance Phantom, the manufacturer took up the challenge of its women's edition. The challenge was the same: to create a spray cap that integrates an NFC chip, allowing for refills and with uncompromising aesthetic quality. The technical challenge having already been met for the first version, the way was paved. It remains no less complex.

The technical challenge of Fame's unique spray cap

Faiveley Plast Beauty (VPI) has produced the spray cap for the 80 ml bottle of Fame. This realization implements both the integration of an NFC chip in the spray cap, which is also the head of the robot, but also a strong automation in the control of the assembly of the whole. For the aesthetic dimension, the choice was made for a beautiful gold galvanization. Finally, the spray cap is designed to allow and facilitate the refill of the product, thanks to a sensory unscrewing-reassembling system that guarantees the preservation of the perfume. This brings a durable dimension to the object.

VPI assists brands in their transitions

With Phantom and now Fame, Paco Rabanne is addressing a new generation of consumers looking for new customer experiences and a concrete eco-responsible stance. This new achievement allows VPI to affirm its ability to accompany beauty and fragrance brands in a transition that is both digital and ecological.

Firmenich appoints Dr. Eric Frérot as Scientist Emeritus

Firmenich, the world's largest privately-owned fragrance and taste company, is proud to announce the appointment of Dr. Eric Frérot as Distinguished Scientist. This appointment is in recognition of his successful career in R&D, his decisive role in disruptive innovations and his consistently outstanding performance in the field of science. He is one of only seven scientists in the company to have been awarded this coveted title.

I am delighted to celebrate the appointment of Dr Eric Frérot as Distinguished Scientist. His valuable contributions have had a profound and lasting effect on the industry and have influenced the next generation of scientific professionals. Science and innovation are at the heart of Firmenich, and our scientific community is at the heart of our success. ", said Gilbert Ghostine, CEO of Firmenich. " No other comparable company mobilizes such a comprehensive range of research activities to define the future of fragrance and taste as Firmenich. "

Eric is an exceptionally versatile researcher and scientific expert whose track record of innovation and discovery has had a significant impact on Firmenich's entire business. ", said Sarah Reisinger, Firmenich's Chief Research Officer. " His work on innovative analytical methods, the discovery of new fragrance and flavor ingredients, organic synthesis and delivery systems is unrivalled in our industry. Eric has been widely recognized for his exceptional expertise, and is the partner of choice for many of our customers, colleagues and the wider industrial and research community. "

The Distinguished Scientist award was introduced in 2008 to reinforce Firmenich's ongoing quest for scientific excellence. It testifies to a scientist's unwavering dedication to inspiring the scientific community, continually innovating and achieving scientific breakthroughs. In addition, it recognizes and rewards outstanding scientific contributions to Firmenich's business, as well as leadership in attracting and retaining top R&D talent.

Firmenich explores the whole continuum of taste and smell, from understanding human perception and molecules to developing new technologies and manufacturing processes. This approach is multi-disciplinary, mastering the disciplines of pure and applied science and engineering.

In 2021, the Group invested 9.3 % of its net sales in R&D, the highest investment ratio in the sector, to innovate for a better society with a focus on hygiene, well-being and sustainability. Firmenich holds over 4,000 active patents.

Dr Eric Frérot joined Firmenich in 1994 in the Analysis and Perception department of the company's R&D division. His current research focuses on the discovery of new premium ingredients and sustainable manufacturing methods. Throughout his nearly 30-year career at Firmenich, he has discovered important taste ingredients for Taste & Beyond in the umami and sweet areas, and today has numerous innovations in development.

He is an expert in analytical investigations of finished products, and frequently receives appreciation from customer expert teams. His decisive achievements are reflected in his results as a prolific scientific author, including 27 publications in peer-reviewed journals, 20 of which on research conducted at Firmenich. He is the inventor of 24 Firmenich patents.

Stoelzle Masnières Parfumerie signatures: Orange Smoke and Sur ma Peau by Dries Van Noten - Puig

Sustainable packaging from Stoelzle Masnières Parfumerie is the glass chosen for Dries Van Noten's new fragrances. Orange Smoke and Sur ma Peau are two new eaux de toilette by Belgian designer Dries Van Noten. The fragrances, with their fresh, luminous notes and long-lasting radiance, designed to be worn alone or layered on top of the Eaux de Parfum collection, are generously bottled in a 200 ml recyclable glass bottle.

Creative director of the brand that bears his name, Dries Van Noten joined the Puig Group in 2018. Passionate about flowers, which he has long cultivated in his Antwerp garden, he chose to collaborate with perfumers Annick Menardo for Orange Smoke, which combined the purity of an orange blossom with the mineral facet of incense, and Quentin Bisch for Sur ma Peau, a contrast between two strong sensations, bergamot and vanilla.

The Dries Van Noten & Stoelzle Masnières Parfumerie development teams continue to work together to meet new challenges:

- Fit the new "clockwork" type ring with notches already used for 100 ml EDPs.

- The engraving of the letters has been meticulously crafted to give the bottle an even more distinctive and exceptional character.

- Numerous lacquering adjustments were necessary to achieve the required level of precision. The shades overlap slightly in a gradation of colors. The fusion of these two opposing shades, which influence each other, had to be achieved without distorting them.

Glass bottles 100 % recyclable in 200 ml format.

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