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La petite Madeleine, a new form of French-style perfumed luxury in a short circuit

Launched just one year ago by Guillaume Dufay, La Petite Madeleine is a start-up incubated at the Technopole de l'Aube en Champagne, whose mission is to combine traditional know-how with the expertise of exceptional perfumers. Initially consisting of a range of scented natural soaps, it now offers five fragrances that echo the scents of the soaps. Available online and gradually in niche perfumeries (Troyes, Reims, Lille, Dijon...), la petite Madeleine is rooted in the Champagne region.

Five new scents

Having worked for several years in the world of cosmetics, and more particularly in the world of exceptional fragrances, Guillaume Dufay wanted to create high-end products that would release memories through scents, while highlighting the richness of the French heritage. From this project were born the scented soaps of the little Madeleine. To do so, Guillaume Dufay trained as a soap maker in order to master the techniques of cold saponification. He started in his grandmother's artist workshop before moving to Troyes and developing his project in the Technopole de l'Aube en Champagne.

A year later, he announced the launch of five eaux de parfum with renowned perfumers to complement the five existing cold process soaps. Always with this will to produce in France and to keep the circuits very short, all the suppliers and partners are located at a few kilometers of the workshop of production of the small Madeleine.

Clean fragrance concentrated to 18 % based on organic beet alcohol used near their production facility, these fragrances are meant to be connected to nature and design in an industry that largely uses heavy, metalized plastic caps.

The scents available and the "noses" are the same as for the five scented soaps:
- Neroli des lunes" by Fabrice Pellegrin
- Nue d'iris" by Marie Salamagne
- Vetiver thrill" by Nicolas Bonneville
- Under the silence of the rose" by Philippine Courtières
- Rain of bergamots" by Julien Plos

These five "noses" work for Firmenich, one of the world's leading perfume houses. Each soap has its own olfactory story told by the perfumer himself.

"Humbly, my desire was to promote the various trades and know-how of our territory. Each one brings its expertise and a stone to the building of our olfactory stories."says Guillaume Dufay, founder of La Petite Madeleine.

A quality and eco-responsible assembly that promotes short circuits

In the same eco-responsible line of soaps - which are all handmade by Guillaume Dufay in his workshop in Troyes, the eaux de parfum are composed of virtuous materials.

Concerning the conception of the corks, the cork is produced in France and comes from the recasting of wine bottle corks, male and female cork bark. La petite Madeleine has called upon two talented designers who have handcrafted pebbles from shells and cork, symbolizing travel, freedom and marine movement.

The bottle is reminiscent of the rounded shapes of scented soaps, with a reduced environmental impact: the bottle was chosen to be light, with a glass requirement divided by two compared to a conventional bottle of the same capacity. Moreover, it is 100 % recyclable.

The boxes and decorations (patterns on the bottles) were made in family businesses less than 50 km from Guillaume Dufay's workshop. Similarly, vegetable inks are used on paper from sustainable forests and the perfume waters contain neither colorants nor UV filters. The beet alcohol is of vegetable origin, organic and collected nearby.

Afterwards, each bottle is packaged in the workshop, with the boxes assembled by hand. The shipping logistics are done in a company 3 km away, where people in social reintegration work.

Givaudan Active Beauty introduces an ingredient to naturally reduce the appearance of stretch marks

Givaudan Active Beauty presents Centella Cast, developed by green fractionation from one of the best-known medicinal plants, Centella Asiatica. Acting on the mechanisms responsible for stretch mark formation, this ingredient works on four levels to restore skin elasticity, density and firmness, reducing the appearance of stretch marks for all consumers.

Often considered an unavoidable side effect of pregnancy, stretch marks or striae can develop on the skin at any age, in both women and men. Up to 86 %1 of Americans experience stretch marks during puberty, and one out of every two women2 during pregnancy. This skin condition, which is neither dangerous nor physically disabling, can lead to self-confidence problems. For example, 71 %3 of women in France say they are concerned about the appearance of stretch marks.

"Skin damage in stretch marks is normally concentrated in the dermis, where disruption of the normal elastic fiber network, alteration of collagen fibers, loss of fiber organization and orientation, and erythema can be observed. As a result, the skin appears less firm and malleable, and stretch marks are visible. Centella Cast effectively counteracts these problems, helping skin to regain its elasticity and firmness. Thanks to these multiple mechanisms, it can also be applied from head to toe, with an overall firming and anti-slackening effect", says Giada Maramaldi, Global Category Manager for Active Beauty.

Centella Cast has been clinically tested on women and shown to significantly improve the epidermis and dermis on four levels:

  • Epidermal thickness at center of stretch marks (+39 %) 
  • Skin elasticity (+62 %) 
  • Skin microcirculation (+162 %) 
  • Skin appearance (+42 %)

To highlight the benefits of Centella Cast, Active Beauty has formulated an inspiring concept: Body Confidence. This light, delicate emulsion aims to reduce the appearance of stretch marks, improve the skin's overall collagen content and fade the color of stretch marks over time.

1 Oakley A. et al, NCBI Bookshelf, 2022 
2 Medical News Today, 2018 
3 IFOT, France, 2014

Some 31 new members join Cosmetic Valley

Cosmetic Valley's Board of Directors met on April 1, 2022 and approved the membership of 31 new members: 29 companies, including 14 start-ups from the "Fabrique de la beauté" in Chartres, and two training organizations. As the cluster has a nationwide presence, the new members are based in seven regions: Bourgogne-Franche-Comté, Grand Est, Centre-Val de Loire, Île-de-France, Monaco, Normandie, Occitanie.

Launched in March 2021 by Chartres métropole, "La Fabrique de la beauté" promotes the emergence of innovative companies in the beauty and well-being sector. Based at La Cité de l'innovation, at CM101, in Le Coudray near Chartres in the Eure-et-Loir region, this start-up incubator brings together start-up projects, marketing, communications and business development experts for a year... Some 14 start-ups have joined the cluster as part of a partnership signed between Cosmetic Valley's Beauty Hub and "La Fabrique de la beauté".

Cosmogen partners with Make Up For Ever for its foundation sponge

Cosmogen has developed the HD Skin sponge, co-created by Make Up For Ever with its makeup artists to offer the ultimate second-skin effect, in combination with HD Skin foundation.

This bi-material sponge has been designed for applying liquid and creamy textures such as HD Skin foundation. Its soft, domed shape and smooth-finish base make it easy to blend and stretch the formula. Its tip offers professional precision. Washable in soapy water.

Olivier Fahy, Chairman and CEO of the Berkem Group, receives the Montgolfier Prize

On April 20, 2022, La Société d'encouragement pour l'industrie nationale (Sein) organized the Montgolfier Awards ceremony at the Hôtel de l'Industrie in Paris. Olivier Fahy, CEO of the Berkem industrial chemicals group, was presented with the Prix Montgolfier 2022 in the eponymous category by Jean-François Fauvaque and Sylvie Latieule, respectively Chairman and member of the "chemical arts" committee.

Every year, the Société d'encouragement pour l'industrie nationale pays tribute to fast-growing business leaders by awarding them the Montgolfier Medal, a distinction designed to recognize personalities who deserve recognition commensurate with their boldness and capacity for innovation. Olivier Fahy succeeds Samuel Stremsdoerfer, founder and CEO of Jet Metal Technologies, and Vivien Henryon, founder and CEO of Lyon-based Activation, as the 2020 and 2021 winners respectively in the same category.

The "Montgolfiers", named after the two Montgolfier brothers, one of whom was one of the founders of the company in 1801, are intended to draw attention to entrepreneurs and inventors from the economic, industrial and commercial worlds, who are rising stars and deserve, in the interests of France, to be more widely known.

Laureates are selected by the Society's eight statutory committees: mechanical arts (created in 1801); chemical arts (1801); agriculture and food industries (1801); commerce and transport (1801); economic arts (1801); construction and fine arts (1879); physical arts (1947); communication and training (1996).

"It's an honor to receive this award in this symbolic location that has been steeped in history for over 200 years. The name Montgolfier rhymes with the idea of innovation and perseverance, and that's what we're trying to do within the Berkem group: integrate plant-based chemistry into the heart of our daily lives by accompanying the transition of players in conventional chemistry."said Olivier Fahy.

Photo: (left to right) Olivier Mousson, President of Sein, Jean-François Fauvaque, Olivier Fahy and Sylvie Latieule - Credits Sein.

Perfumery: what does the future hold?

Some 100 experts from the perfume industry will meet in Paris, on the 1ster July 2022 to discuss the future of perfumery. 

Perfumers, designers, brands, distributors, retailers, raw material producers, packaging manufacturers, trainers, teachers and publicists will come together to discuss and define the future direction of the perfume and fragrance professions, in response to the challenges of a changing world.

Tous au Parfum! is the title of the event.

"In ancient Greece, "aller au parfum" meant "to get together to discuss". Today, in everyday French, "être au parfum" means "to be aware of". From the sharing of ideas, from a discussion forum, from face-to-face meetings, from openness, from dialogue, from accurate information, from collaboration, comes freedom, creativity, innovation and therefore development".say the organizers.

Under the presidency of perfumer Serge Lutens and an international honorary committee, tributes will be paid to eminent contemporary figures in perfumery, including Jean Kerléo, Jean Patou's nose and founder of the Osmothèque, and Pierre Dinand, creator of countless perfume bottles.

The program includes conferences, workshops, the New Luxury Awards ceremony and a gala dinner in support of Murano glassmakers.

Organized by the International Perfume Foundation and Marquise Invest, this third edition of the New Luxury Awards will reward perfumers and brands for their efforts to protect the environment and respect the new luxury code. 

"Our aim is to stimulate fragrance and packaging creativity by adopting the New Luxury Code as sustainability standards for authenticity, integrity and transparency. This competition also aims to create a link between new perfumers, new designers and perfumery or packaging students."explains Creezy Courtoy, President of the International Perfume Foundation.

The international partners of this event are : Beauty Cluster Barcelona, Paris Packaging Week and Autur City.

The event will take place on Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés, at the Hôtel de l'Industrie. The ideal place to host this first international meeting of the perfume trades and discover the future of the perfume industry, sustainable packaging, new extraction processes, know-how and smell the finest raw materials. 

For more information:
www.tousauparfum.com

Several awards for Lipoid Kosmetik ingredients

Lipoid Kosmetik, manufacturer of botanical extracts, active ingredients and natural phospholipid products for the cosmetics and personal care industry, has been honored at the BSB Innovation Awards.

The award aims to promote innovation in cosmetics and natural products, rewarding raw materials, finished products, applied concepts and products with a positive environmental impact. Over the years, it has become a benchmark, with a growing number of entries from international brands every year.

At the 2022 edition, Lipoid Kosmetik was awarded first prize in the natural products/raw materials category in the "Recipients" sub-section for its Herbamilk Eco product line. The international jury declared: "The product capitalizes on the herbal milk trend and is convincing thanks to a good marketing concept.

In the "Collagen" sub-category, the jury awarded second prize to PhytoCollagen, a natural alternative to animal collagen developed by the company.

"We are very proud to once again be represented among the winners of this year's BSB Innovation Award, as it demonstrates our continued success in developing new and innovative raw materials."says Lipoid Kosmetik.

PhytoCollagen also won Silver in the in-cosmetics Global Green Ingredient Award 2022.

The in-cosmetics Global Award is one of the most prestigious awards in the global cosmetics industry, with over 180 entries in three categories. The Green Ingredient Award is given to ingredients that make a significant environmental or social difference in the field of sustainability, combined with a convincing concept and excellent clinical data. PhytoCollagen was selected from over 60 entries from international companies.

Hannes Moeller appointed Managing Director of Seppic

A subsidiary of Air Liquide Healthcare, Seppic has been designing, producing and distributing a wide range of specialty ingredients for cosmetic, nutraceutical, pharmaceutical, veterinary and industrial products for over 75 years. Seppic combines multiple areas of expertise in polymers, surfactants and emulsion technologies, active ingredients, biology, immunology, formulation, green chemistry, extraction and biotechnologies.

Hannes Moeller, who trained as an engineer and holds a degree in biotechnology, has gained international experience and held management positions within the Air Liquide Group since 2008, first as Distribution Director, then as Industrial Director, Merchant Market Food & Pharma for Central and Western Europe.

Hannes Moeller's latest experience, as R&D Program Director for the Air Liquide Group, will reinforce Seppic's dynamic research and innovation program, designed to support profitable, sustainable growth through responsible innovation. These are priorities that Seppic places at the heart of its vision and corporate strategy.

Hannes Moeller took up his position as Managing Director of seppic on April 1, 2022.

Esepac and ESP Student Challenge sponsored by Estée Lauder Companies: the winners are known

Easyfairs Oriex, organizer of Paris Packaging Weekin partnership with Esepac (European School of Packaging) and ESP (School of Perfume), organized the traditional competition between students of the two schools and unveiled the projects of this 6th edition.

On the theme of the 2021 competition "How to reinvent unique, luxurious and sustainable consumer experiences for the luxury fragrance market", students from both schools were able to work on very specific briefs at the end of the year.

This year, the challenge was sponsored by Marc Lechanoine, Global Senior Vice President Creative Design & Packaging Innovation - The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. 

The projects will be presented by the students on stage in the PCD conference room and on the booth of the two schools at the Paris Packaging Week on June 29 and 30, 2022 in Paris Porte de Versailles.

  • Project Perfume seals made visible 

Four solid perfumes chosen by each person, the applicator and a pouch are offered. The whole is grouped in a beautiful wooden box as well as the perfume containers. The perfume can be visible or not, the scented wax can be used as a light tattoo with a Japanese word and specific to the ethics of the brand. The boxes can be stacked or not. The idea is to retranscribe the Asian culture through the mode of use. 

  • Smart-Perfume Project, "What if your smartphone became your perfume?"

Smart-Perfume is a "nomadic" perfume device that allows consumers to carry their perfume around with them at all times as it is attached to their smartphone. The perfume is contained in a refillable 15 ml aluminum bottle that slips into a leather pouch magnetized to the back of a smartphone. The pouch is fully customizable according to your desires. The bottle is refillable both in store and at home thanks to a connected wooden base that allows you to recharge both your phone and your bottle of perfume.

  • VIP Perfume Room Project 

The concept lies in a mysterious room giving the consumer a whole new experience in the creation of a perfume. It all starts with obtaining a key that will allow access to a secret room leading to the unique creation of the perfume in terms of fragrances and the personalization of the bottle's packaging. The key to the creation room is used as an applicator for the perfume by immersing part of it in the bottle. After this first experience, the consumer will have the opportunity to make his bottle a real jewel. They will be able to regularly come and refill their bottle in the store. Each time he will proceed to this refill operation, he will obtain a jewel called "Charms" to insert on his perfume case. This concept is part of a respectful and sustainable approach for the environment, notably by using recyclable and recycled materials for the bottle and its accessories. With this, the use of a perennial product with unlimited customization to reflect the consumer's desires.

  • Ouréa Project

The concept, Ouréa, was inspired by gua sha stones and the sensations that massages provide while being scented. The students created an applicator that allows the stone to turn on itself, simulating this massage sensation. From an ergonomic point of view, the three curved sides of the cap are designed to fit the shape of the fingers, thus offering ease of application to the user. Aesthetically, the multi-faceted glass bottle is reminiscent of the shape of a precious stone and, depending on the different angles of view, provides an interesting visual effect, thus meeting the codes of the luxury world. 

  • Very Instant Perfume Project 

Very Instant Perfume is divided into three parts: 
- The packaging of the perfume, a flask of small capacity with a 3D visual inside equipped with a roll-on. This flask is made of plastic and gold/silver metals,
- Fountains in stores. Rotating, they allow you to choose your perfume. They are composed of glass columns,
- The commandable limousine to recharge with perfume and enjoy a luxurious experience.

The bottle can be bought in store (nomadic format) with its leather pouch to protect it and always carry it with you. This 15 ml bottle can be refilled at any time of the day thanks to the limousine and these rotating fountains. 

Wood and glass, a combination of sustainable beauty

Italian cosmetics brand OphirMilano has chosen international beauty packaging manufacturer and supplier Quadpack and Biofarma Group to develop the packaging and formula for its new sustainable skincare range. The brand has opted for the Woodacity solo screw cap and Regula Glass jar for its collection, which includes anti-aging cream, mattifying gel and facial scrub. All formulas feature natural, effective ingredients that meet the brand's commitment to sustainable beauty. 

"The quality of our ingredients is a value for us, but also a responsibility. explains Sara Lualdi, Marketing Director at OphirMilano. "Our commitment to a more sustainable future begins with the rigorous selection of natural ingredients and eco-friendly, recyclable or reusable packaging." she adds. 

"As a cosmetics, dietary supplements and medical devices CDMO, Biofarma Group believes it is its responsibility to protect and defend the environment by following the principles of sustainability and recyclability during product development. We are proud to be able to serve brands like OphirMilano, who see sustainability as a plus and a social responsibility." says Ignacio Iturralde, Business Development Manager for Cosmetics at Biofarma.

The Woodacity solo screw cap used in this packaging is single-material. It has no plastic components and is PEFC-certified, guaranteeing the sustainable source of raw materials. The Regula Glass jar is a recyclable product that can also be transformed thanks to its refined aesthetics.

"The Regula Glass jar with the PEFC-certified Woodacity screw cap can be perfectly reused as a sprouting jar, jewelry box, spice box, piggy bank... We want to give our customers the opportunity not only to recycle packaging, but also to reuse it creatively." explains Sara Lualdi.

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