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CES 2022: IFF and SleepScore Labs unveil a new olfactory well-being innovation

By
The editorial staff
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IFF and SleepScore Labs present an olfactory innovation for improving sleep quality, the fruit of a partnership initiated in 2020 and made possible by IFF's "Science of Wellness" program. The two companies will be demonstrating this innovation at CES (Consumer Electric Show, dedicated to technological innovation in consumer electronics), which takes place from January 5 to 8, 2022 in Las Vegas: a fragrance that improves overall sleep quality thanks to a faster fall-asleep phase, fewer nocturnal awakenings and longer sleep duration.

"IFF has always been a pioneer when it comes to finding olfactory solutions to improve people's lives, says Christophe de Villeplée, President of IFF's fragrance division. The first two years of our partnership with SleepScore Labs have been used by our perfumers and innovation teams to develop fragrances that combine our scientific data, derived from neuroscience, and big data with SleepScore Labs' biometric analysis tools to improve sleep quality. The CES show will allow technology-savvy visitors to discover our unique olfactory wellness solution and experience it for themselves."

With 70 % of developed countries affected by poor sleep quality among their inhabitants, and the resulting adverse effects on health, the need to develop concrete, scientifically-proven solutions is undeniable and urgent. IFF, a leader in the food, beverage, fragrance, health and biosciences industries, and SleepScore Labs, a company offering comprehensive sleep improvement solutions based on data science, have leveraged their mutual expertise to create an olfactory wellness solution based on scientifically proven results.

The two companies have collaborated to develop biometrically tested fragrances. The studies use SleepScore's "non-contact measurement" technology to detect respiratory signals and body movements, in order to identify not only sleep-wake cycles, but also to distinguish specific sleep phases: Light, Deep and REM (Rapid Eye Movement). Their technology has been validated using Polysomnography, a reference medical examination for assessing sleep disorders.

"Billions of people are constantly looking for solutions to sleep better, but few answers are based on solid scientific data to prove their performance, says Colin Lawlor, CEO of SleepScore Labs. That's why we're extremely proud to be working with IFF and to be able to offer products whose effectiveness has been duly tested and proven, the results of serious scientific data and studies, which can be used in homes all over the world to help people sleep better."

Marie Sermadiras is appointed CEO of all Cosfibel Group's operating subsidiaries

By
Kristel Milet
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Marie Sermadiras joined the Cosfibel group in May 2021 with a view to taking the operational reins of the company. She has held the position of Executive Vice President since that date.
She will report to Cosfibel's Executive Chairman, Alain Chevassus, founder of the group in 2001 and majority shareholder since then.
The Cosfibel group will reach in 2021 a turnover of around 85 million $ US, a level slightly higher than 2019. The expected turnover in 2022 is USD 100 million, in the very high value-added markets of cosmetics, W&S and Fine Food.
Marie Sermadiras' main mission will be to ensure profitable and sustainable growth in order to enable Cosfibel to move from the stage of an SME to that of an ETI. This growth will be both organic and based on acquisitions in niches complementary to the existing segments.
In addition to the Chairman and CEO, the two other executives who will report to Marie Sermadiras have been confirmed as members of the Executive Committee: Stanislas Peronnet, Managing Director, who is also responsible for the creation of an Innovation and Sustainable Development department, and Natali Spasenic, Corporate CFO in charge of Finance, Administration and Management Control.

Alain Chevassus is delighted that Marie Sermadiras has taken over as head of Cosfibel: "Three years after our chance meeting, and during numerous exchanges, I was convinced that Marie's entrepreneurial spirit, her successful experiences and her great capacity for teamwork would be the key assets to continue and develop the Cosfibel adventure. I am particularly proud that this transfer of power will be passed on to a young 32 year old woman who is perfectly capable of facing new economic and social challenges, to the satisfaction of customers, teams and shareholders".

Marie Sermadiras said: "I am absolutely delighted that Alain Chevassus has placed his trust in me to succeed him as CEO of the Cosfibel group. I know that we have all the assets in hand to open a second chapter for Cosfibel, in particular thanks to expert and passionate teams, a strong and benevolent corporate culture and healthy and promising foundations".

Cosmetotest Symposium rescheduled to May 24-25, 2022

By
The editorial staff
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Organized by Skinobs and Cosmet'in Lyon, in partnership with SFI2C and DIIP, and with the support of the Aura region and the Cosmebooste project, the Cosmetotest symposium initially scheduled for January will finally take place at ENS-Lyon, on May 24 and 25, 2022.

This symposium, dedicated to preclinical and clinical testing in the dermocosmetics industry, aims to enable cosmeticians from France and around the world to :

  1. Listen to academic and applied lectures and interact with participants
  2. To meet testing partners, exhibitors, CROs or instrumentation manufacturers,
  3. Take part in equipment demonstrations by exhibitors

It includes two highlights:

Tuesday, May 24, 2022: preclinical evaluation in-tubo, in-vitro, or ex-vivo

  • Session 1: Pollution - Inflammation - Allergies
  • Session 2: Sunlight - Pigmentation - Aging
  • Session 3: Evaluation of container-content interactions

Wednesday, May 25, 2022: clinical, in-vivo human objectification

  • Session 1: Radiance of the complexion and shine of the hair
  • Session 2: Skin barrier function
  • Session 3: Sensitive skin

The complete program and registration details are available on www.skinobs.com and www.cosmetinlyon.com

To become an exhibitor or sponsor: Ophélie Rebillard - [email protected], tel. 33 7 88 17 00 14.

Pantone reveals the "Color Of The Year" 2022

By
Kristel Milet
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Pantone has introduced the "Color Of The Year 2022: Pantone 17-3938 Very Peri, a dynamic shade of periwinkle blue with an invigorating violet red undertone. Combining the fidelity and consistency of blue with the energy and excitement of red, this is the happiest and warmest blue hue of all, bringing a stimulating mix of newness.

"As we enter a world of changethe choice of Pantone 17-3938 Very Peri offers a new perspective and a new vision of the blue family, well known and widely appreciatedsays Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute. Encompassing the qualities of blues with a touch of red-purple, Pantone 17-3938 Very Peri expresses a bright, cheerful attitude and dynamic presence that encourages bold creativity and imaginative expression. "

" The Pantone Color of the Year reflects what is happening in our global culture. It expresses what we are all looking for, and tries to answer itadds Laurie Pressman, vice president of the Pantone Color Institute. The creation of a color for the first time in the history of our Pantone Color of the Year educational color program reflects the innovation and transformation underway globally. As society continues to recognize color as an essential form of communication and as a way to express and symbolize ideas and emotions, to engage and connect, the complexity of this new blue hue punctuated by a touch of red-purple highlights the breadth of possibilities before us. "

Pantone 17-3938 Very Peri in clothing and fashion accessories

Pantone 17-3938 Very Peri, a warm, friendly blue hue suggesting carefree confidence and a joyful attitude, encourages uninhibited expression and experimentation. It expresses a dynamic presence, an enthusiastic blue hue whose fantasy lends itself to unpredictable color harmonies and spontaneous color statements. Futuristic in appearance, Pantone 17-3938 Very Peri takes on distinct appearances when applied to a variety of materials, finishes and textures, from shimmering metallics and glossy sheens to high-tech materials, handmade looks and natural fibers.

Pantone 17-3938 Very Peri in cosmetics and hair

Suggesting personal inventiveness and bold imagination, Pantone 17-3938 Very Peri provides an original touch for eyes, nails and especially hair in a variety of finishes and applications from glitter and glam to powder matte.

Pantone 17-3938 Very Peri in decoration and interior design

Evoking the new modernity, Pantone 17-3938 Very Peri injects a sense of playful freshness into interiors, enlivening the space with unusual color combinations. A versatile shade that enlivens our creative spirit, Pantone 17-3938 Very Peri is suitable for a range of different materials, textures and finishes. It provides a splash of color, whether on a wall, accent piece or interior design, or as an intriguing and eye-catching accent in a pattern.

Pantone 17-3938 Very Peri in packaging and multimedia design

By merging the steady, continuous shades of blue with the energy and excitement of red, Pantone 17-3938 Very Peri conveys a message of credibility and creativity. Whether it appears in a digital fantasy world or on physical materials, Pantone 17-3938 Very Peri exudes a good-natured warmth that quickly catches the eye, making it an ideal color for many graphic design, multimedia and packaging applications.

L'Oréal unveils its latest beauty tech innovations at CES 2022

By
The editorial staff
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Coloright and Colorsonic, two L'Oréal innovations, are among the winners of the 2022 CES Innovation Awards. These two innovations reinvent the consumer experience in hair coloring.

At CES 2022, the world's premier consumer technology conference, L'Oréal Group is unveiling its latest Beauty Tech innovation to reinvent the entire hair color category: Colorsonic, a lightweight, portable device that uses an innovative and safe process to blend and apply hair color evenly, giving consumers consistent color results at home. 

Also featured: Coloright, for hairdressers, is an artificial intelligence-connected hair coloring system that relies on virtual fitting to project desired shades and an algorithm to achieve personalized hair color on demand, with more than 1,500 custom shade possibilities.

"Our robust experience and century-long leadership in hair color has enabled our researchers, data scientists and Tech engineers to completely revisit and reinvent the hair color experience both at home with Colorsonic, a unique user-designed, reusable device for vibrant precision hair color results; and for hairdressers with Coloright, the most personalized and advanced in-salon experience for achieving desired hair color results anywhere in the world. L'Oréal's leadership in Beauty Tech allows us to push the boundaries of science-enhanced technology for breakthroughs in more personalized, inclusive and sustainable beauty experiences."said Barbara Lavernos, Executive Vice President of Research, Innovation and Technology at L'Oréal.

When the Covid-19 pandemic caused many salons to temporarily close, the use of at-home hair color increased by 6 %. During this time, consumers were faced with the challenges of a home hair coloring process that has remained largely unchanged for decades, namely messy hair dye and the complexity of applying color to hard-to-reach areas.

Developed in response to these consumer needs and perfected over five years, Colorsonic is based on a custom blending mechanism that combines a precise amount of developer and formula to create a hair color. The machine then dispenses the correct amount of color and applies it to the hair with an oscillating nozzle whose bristles move in a zigzag pattern to distribute it evenly throughout the hair. In five steps, the consumer can :

  1. Choose a hair color from the 40 shades offered on the Colorsonic website. The ammonia-free coloring kit is shipped directly to your home.
  2. Load the color cartridge into the unit for on-demand color mixing. The color and developer are separated until the unit is turned on, which is essential to preserve the color and keep it fresh.
  3. Brush from roots to ends for even color application. The oscillating nozzle - specially designed to avoid spillage, over-saturation and dripping - moves 300 times per minute to cover hair quickly and effectively. An attachment is also included for those with long hair (shoulder length or longer).
  4. Wait 30 minutes before rinsing.
  5. Remove the cartridge from the unit and store the remaining color for easy touch-ups at any time. The cartridge system allows Colorsonic to store remaining color for future touch-ups and to cover white hair.

"After years of research and development, we are excited to unveil technologies at this year's Consumer Electronics Show that modernize the experience of millions of people around the world who color their hair at home and in salons, said Guive Balooch, director of the L'Oréal Tech Incubator. Our goal is to leverage science and technology to solve age-old problems for consumers, and Colorsonic is a perfect example of the power of innovating for consumers by innovating with them."

The unveiling of Colorsonic is part of L'Oréal's ongoing commitment to provide exceptional personalized beauty experiences that are environmentally friendly. This commitment is reflected in various features:

  • Post-consumer recycled plastic: Colorsonic is a reusable device with a recyclable formulation cartridge that uses less plastic per application than at-home hair color boxes.
  • Reusable gloves: Existing at-home hair coloring products include single-use gloves in each box. Colorsonic replaces the single-use gloves with high-performance gloves that can be reused up to 10 times.
  • Lightweight shipping packaging: the Colorsonic device and the color cartridges are shipped in certified recyclable paper packaging.

L'Oréal plans to market Colorsonic in the United States from the beginning of 2023.

Technology that modernizes the salon hair color experience

In addition to transforming the at-home hair color experience with Colorsonic, L'Oreal is equally focused on the next evolution of the salon hair color experience. Coloright is a hair coloring system for hairdressers that is connected to artificial intelligence and creates personalized hair color on demand. It puts innovation in the hands of professional colorists and personalizes the in-salon hair color experience, powered by a patented algorithm to deliver more accurate coloring.

The machine is equipped with a reader, which analyzes the customer's hair by measuring factors that influence color effectiveness, including hair color, percentage of white hair, length and density, and a dispenser that contains dry beads made of hair color, along with cartridges of cream bases, developers and thinners. Together, these dispensed components create a customized hair color recipe. The extremely precise device dispenses all the components of the formula and in total, Coloright is capable of providing over 1,500 customized possibilities.

After an online edition in 2021, the 2022 edition of CES in Las Vegas will be held in person from January 5 to 7, 2022.

Upcycling: everything you need to know

By
editocom
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In the latest issue of Industrys Cosmetics, we have a beautiful dossier dedicated to upcycling.

When waste becomes active

Naturalness, zero waste, circular economy... The upcycling trend, which literally translates as "recycling from above", is opening up new possibilities in cosmetics today, as in many other fields, in terms of both marketing pitches and scientific applications. From perfumers' palettes to skincare formulas, these new molecules derived from co-products, boosted by technological advances, are enchanting the sector.

To subscribe, you can send a message using the contact form

(our subscription site is under construction)

Home fragrances: +6% growth for sensory escape

By
editocom
-

There is no season more conducive to feeling good at home than winter. As the cold weather settles in, opportunities to go out become rarer in favor of creating a home that reflects your image and your mood. Among the cocooning tricks, the interior perfuming!

Scented candles, pebbles, essential oil or perfume diffusers... Since the Covid-19 pandemic, the Air-care market[1] is experiencing strong growth worldwide, estimated at over 6.4% between 2020 and 2021[2]. In Europe, the English and Germans are the biggest fans... followed closely by the French!

If perfuming one's interior was once an original decorative inspiration or a functional tool against certain odors, today it is a real lifestyle trend. This practice accompanies both the desire to sanitize the space in which we live, with plant extracts in particular, and above all a need to escape through the diffusion of pleasant scents.

In fact, according to the study Les Français et les odeurs[3]The 75% of those who perfume their homes are above all seeking to create a personalized and reassuring atmosphere linked to emotion. The sense of smell is, in fact, the most developed sense in humans with 35% of memory recognition[4]. Directly linked to the limbic system of our brain, it provokes in everyone - in a conscious or imperceptible way - the reappearance of intimate memories.

Faced with this growing demand, many premium and luxury perfumery brands are thinking about the best ways to subtly diffuse their essences indoors. Many are turning to new technological innovations in order to offer ever more efficient fragrance diffusers. Electric, intelligent and connected, they will be a safer alternative to scented candles tomorrow.

Diptyque is a perfect example. Renowned worldwide for its scented candles, the brand has turned to ScentysScentys, a French company that is a pioneer in new dry fragrance diffusion processes and the owner of several worldwide patents, to define and technically integrate its exclusive know-how into a new diffuser for the home. Scentys has invented the capsule perfume for a dry, quality and safe diffusion.

Drawing on its technological expertise and knowledge of perfumery, Scentys has provided Diptyque with all its design, engineering and industrialization know-how for the first capsule perfume dispenser " Un Air de Diptyque ". A sophisticated object, it uses the air as a vector that passes through the perfumed cartridges to render each creation with accuracy and quality. The collection of cartridges is enriched year after year. Today there are 9 of them, in the form of highly concentrated pearls of perfume that faithfully reproduce each note of the fragrance.

Fig tree, Orange blossom, Mimosa... thanks to its success, the Diptyque brand has also extended the use of these cartridges to other diffusion systems such as wall outlets and car diffusers so that you can take your favorite fragrance with you everywhere.

1. air care in French
2. Source: Mintel MS / Nielsen Insight
3. Study conducted in December 2019 by PRS in Vivo
4. Source: Rockefeller University - NYC study

ExplOud, the new perfume by Pierre-Constantin Guéros (Symrise) for Laboratorio Olfattivo

By
The editorial staff
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For this first collaboration with Symrise, Laboratorio Olfattivo has chosen to call upon Pierre-Constantin Guéros. A traveling perfumer, this Middle Eastern connoisseur is driven by the humanity, sensitivity and curiosity of those who have traveled the world and are constantly seeking contact with different cultures. A meeting that led them to propose together a vision of Oud, precious and quite other than dark.

A carrier of light, Exploud reinterprets the aromatic traits of a unique raw material that has already been the subject of numerous representations. To do this, Pierre-Constantin Guéros has sought to recreate each of the main facets of the Oud to keep its essence, without the caricatured Middle Eastern side.

"The Oud as a raw material now belongs to the palette of the Western perfumer who can use it outside a context of perfumes intended for the Middle East. Alongside Ajmal Oud, interesting for its volume and nobility, a series of statutory raw materials to reveal all its notes: Ambrostar1 for the woody power, New Caledonian sandalwood for the suede side, supple and warm, rich powdery musks like civettone or exaltolide for their extraordinary impression of volume and skin, and Java and Madagascar vetivers for the smoky note "explains Pierre-Constantin Guéros.

Pierre-Constantin Guéros, in a few words

Pierre-Constantin Guéros was born and raised in the 17th arrondissement of Paris. His father, a furrier for the great couturiers, owned a workshop impregnated with the scents of leather, fur and polished wood. It was during an open day at ISIPCA that Pierre discovered the profession of perfumer, which resonated deeply in his creative and scientific mind. A vocation that he feeds by his natural curiosity, his readings, his travels and his meetings. His taste for knowledge and his passion for discussing anything related to perfume have served him well on many occasions. In 2012, he joined the Symrise family, first in Dubai. After spending 15 years abroad, he returned to Paris, "the center of my world" as he puts it.

1. According to Symrise, Ambrostar is one of the most successful captives to date in rediscovering this forgotten ambergris note. An incredible dried woody note with unique and contrasting mineral facets.

Nutriswiss: a gentle refining process for organic oils

By
editocom
-

Gentle refining" technologies optimize the organoleptic properties of products that comply with European pollutant limit standards and organic certifications.

To effectively purify organic oils and optimize their taste, Nutriswiss, one of Switzerland's leading producers of edible oils and fats, combines several specific physical refining processes. After treatment, there is virtually no trace left in the oils of contaminants linked to the transformation process (3-MCPD, glycidol, trans-fatty acids). Mineral oil residues, plasticizers, free fatty acids and other contaminants are effectively reduced, while preserving micronutrients.

As a custom producer, Nutriswiss refines a wide variety of oils for the food, pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries. Our state-of-the-art processes enable oils to be refined gently, in compliance with European organic farming guidelines and other certifications such as Demeter, Bioland and BioSuisse.

Oils refined in this way, which would otherwise be unsuitable for further processing or sale as is, due to intense flavours, unsuitable colouring or exposure to contaminants in the environment or during transport, now become safe ingredients.
Unlike conventional high-temperature physical refining, which creates processing contaminants and destroys valuable micronutrients, the thermal load in "gentle refining" processes remains relatively low. The process is therefore also suitable for sensitive raw materials such as omega-3-rich seed oils like rapeseed or linseed, algae oils or other special oils.

Gentle physical refining

Contamination can occur in organic cultivation, for example through exhaust fumes, contact between raw materials and machinery, or during transport. In a random in-house analysis of various organic rapeseed oils sold in the Swiss retail trade, for example, mineral oil residues were detected. And although these contaminants were present in "acceptable" concentrations (with regard to the guidance values compiled by the German food association [Lebensmittelverband Deutschland eV] for MOH in August 2021), they were nevertheless considered "undesirable". Thanks to "gentle refining" technologies, Nutriswiss has mastered purification without the formation of processing contaminants such as glycidol and 3-MCPD. As a result, extremely pure and organoleptically neutral products can be gently manufactured.

According to Michel Burla, General Manager of Nutriswiss, " The contract production of organic grade oils of the highest purity is a very special addition to our existing range of services. We are proud to now be able to meet market demand with purely physical, certified processes. "

Happy Holidays!

By
The editorial staff
-

The entireIndustries Cosmétiques wishes you a merry Christmas and a happy new year.

We're taking a few days off and will be back at the beginning of 2022 to bring you the latest news and market trends.

We'll be bringing you even more information and features, and an even richer magazine.

In the meantime, take care of yourself.

See you soon!

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