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Lipoid Kosmetik proposes a vegan milk for cosmetic use

By
The editorial staff
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Lipoid Kosmetik, manufacturer of high quality botanical extracts, actives and natural phospholipid products for the cosmetic and personal care industry, launches the Herbamilk Eco line, a vegan milk for cosmetic use.

Plant-based milk alternatives are a growing food trend, and as the vegan trend gains popularity, it is expanding from food to other elements of consumers' lives, such as beauty and personal care.

In response to the non-dairy milk trend in cosmetics, Lipoid Kosmetik offers the Cosmos-approved, 100 % natural Herbamilk Eco product line, which combines natural vegetable oils and natural plant extracts with hydrogenated phospholipids.

According to Lipoid Kosmetik, Herbamilk Eco has the following advantages for the user:

  • Hydration, fat gain, emollient,
  • Appetizing vegan dairy concepts,
  • To give a milky aspect to the products,
  • Facilitate the incorporation of oils in surfactant products.

Herbamilk Eco allows you to create milk-based concepts, following the vegan and health-conscious trend.

Albéa, eXpackUSA and U.T.C.G cooperate on responsible tubes

By
The editorial staff
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Albéa announces its partnership with U.T.C.G and eXpackUSA to supply beauty and skincare brands with "made in America" tubes made from post-consumer recycled (PCR) plastics.

A global supplier of laminated and plastic tubes for the cosmetics and skincare markets, Albéa Tubes is committed to making all its tubes recyclable by 2025, thanks to a winning combination of lightweight tubes (containing less plastic), ready-to-recycle monomaterial tubes and caps, an extensive range of tubes made from PCR and bio-based resins, and groundbreaking innovations such as Greenleaf tubes and paper-based tubes.  

eXpackUSA is a renowned co-packing and manufacturing company for the cosmetics, OTC and personal care markets. eXpackUSA offers brands and manufacturers the most innovative and original solutions to their challenges. 

U.T.C.G is a privileged partner of Albéa, acting as an intermediary between the cosmetics industry and formulators, combining agility and tailor-made solutions.

To demonstrate their shared commitment to social responsibility, eXpackUSA has selected Albéa's PCR Encore coextruded tube. This innovative tube is part of the PCR platform of responsible packaging solutions, giving a second life to recycled materials and reducing carbon footprints. It is manufactured at Albéa's Reynosa plant in Mexico.

Bruno de Carvalho, head of Albéa Tubes in the Americas, said: "This partnership will accelerate the market adoption of low environmental impact circular packaging. It will help brands meet their own responsible packaging commitments, while contributing to their climate change ambitions. What's more, made-in-America manufacturing supports local jobs and communities, and enables shorter, more agile and safer supply chains."

Nimrod Weigel, CEO of eXpackUSA, adds: "eXpack's mission is to bring inspiration to every brand and manufacturer in the world by creating innovative solutions with a smaller environmental footprint. This goal can only be achieved through cooperation between players. That's why, from January 2022, eXpackUSA will offer its customers Albéa PCR tubes at no extra cost, because we believe that choosing the sustainable option shouldn't be a matter of price."

Adi Greenspan, CEO of U.T.C.G, confirms: "We are proud to be the cornerstone of this ecosystem bringing Albéa, eXpackUSA and U.T.C.G together to provide unique sustainable solutions for our customers through responsible packaging and agile sourcing."

Firmenich and MG International Fragrance Company join forces to create a perfume production center in Turkey

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The editorial staff
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Firmenich and MG International Fragrance Company today announced the construction of a new regional fragrance production hub on the MG International campus near Istanbul, Turkey. The 47 million Swiss franc investment will provide 20,000 tons of additional capacity to serve the dynamic markets of Turkey, the Middle East and Central Asian countries.

"This project is an important milestone in Firmenich's partnership with MG International Fragrance Company in 2019, demonstrating our shared commitment to providing a winning service to our customers and the strength of our engagement in this dynamic region, said Gilbert Ghostine, CEO of Firmenich. This state-of-the-art facility will be a true perfume production hub, meeting the rapidly growing demand of small and medium-sized customers across Turkey, the Middle East and Central Asian countries."

 "We are very proud that our legacy of 186 years of combined fragrance business experience will continue with the alliance we began only two years ago, said MG International Fragrance Company CEO Aslan Gülçiçek. With Firmenich's continued and unparalleled investments in our country and in our business, we are demonstrating that we are committed to being a key player in these important markets in the region."

The construction of the regional fragrance production center was officially launched at a groundbreaking ceremony at the MG International and Firmenich campus in Gebze Industrial Zone. MG International Fragrance Company's honorary chairman Mişel Gülçiçek, Firmenich's director of operations Eric Nicolas and senior executives from both companies were present. The new facility is expected to be operational before the end of 2023, joining Firmenich's global network of 46 fragrance, flavor and ingredient plants around the world.

With approximately 15,000 square meters of space spread over four floors, the facility will house some of the most advanced digital production technologies and quality assurance labs in the industry. The highly automated plant will provide agile, high-quality service to meet the specific needs of the region's growing small and medium-sized businesses.

Sustainability criteria were integrated into the design of the project from the outset, in line with Firmenich's approach and its 2030 environmental, social and governance (ESG) goals. The factory is planned as a Leed-certified green building (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design), meeting the highest standards of energy efficiency, environmental protection and working environment.

Arcade Beauty launches "Arcade Beauty Retail

By
Kristel Milet
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Arcade Beauty, world leader in beauty sample innovation for over a century, has capitalized on its expertise and knowledge of customer needs to create a new division, Arcade Beauty Retail. This new offer, which includes full project management, marketing, formulation, manufacturing, packaging and delivery, is aimed at the beauty and retail segments.

Arcade Beauty Retail designs targeted turnkey & customizable solutions, produced in small or large series, with reduced time-to-market. This offer focuses on creative, daring beauty routines that respect the environment. The multiple packaging solutions available benefit from the Group's CSR maturity. It anticipates market demand and meets the expectations of all types of customer (major groups, DNVBs, Indian brands and retailers). 

Successfully piloted in Europe and rolled out in North America in 2022, Arcade Beauty Retail offers the global market a catalog of product solutions and packaging innovations dedicated to skin, hair and body care. Developed worldwide in France, Europe and the United States, the formulas have been selected for their performance, and are toxicologically validated and approved. In a clean beauty spirit, this range instills naturalness in a simple, fun way. Classic, must-have, ultra-innovative, downright "Instagrammable"... these products are the fruit of careful marketing thinking and expert analysis of market trends: water-free formulas, the "home institute" trend, DIY, a short list of selective ingredients.

Arcade Beauty Retail relies on an industrial network that enables it to produce as close as possible to its markets, in Europe, the United States, China and Brazil, enabling brands to claim local production.

Verpack makes eco-friendly Advent calendars for La Thé Box

By
Kristel Milet
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The Verpack group continues its collaboration with La Thé Box, producing a collection of three all-cardboard Advent calendars.
Last year, the brand entrusted the Verpack group with an advanced eco-design project in line with its ethical positioning. Cardboard wedges and a simplified design for products that are as easy to assemble as they are to pack - these were the project's winning options.

What's new in 2021

This year, the brand has renewed its book-shaped calendar, as well as the one illustrating a tea room, and added a rectangular box to its collection, named "Christmas in New York". On each side, an image depicts the city in an American movie atmosphere, illustrated by artist Joy Laforme. For this creation, the Verpack group designed an inner wedge and cut-outs to accommodate the 24 surprises on each of the 4 sides. Each box delivers 2 doses of a chosen tea to be enjoyed by two, in line with the "Tea for two" concept initiated by the brand. The decorations are offset printed and protected by a gloss varnish. On top, a double lid with tabs reinforces the structure. Finally, a ribbon has been inserted through a notch to hang the calendar.

And with a view to reducing its overall carbon footprint, the Verpack group was able to handle all operations on a single site (in France): offset printing, varnishing, die-cutting, pre-cutting and pre-gluing for delivery of flat packs.

IFF wins numerous awards at the Fragrance Foundation Awards 2021

By
The editorial staff
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The Fragrance Foundation Awards ceremony took place on October 7, at which IFF, one of the world's leading fragrance creators, was honored with a number of awards. 

These awards recognize the creativity, innovation and consumer focus of IFF's creative teams and the brands they work with. 

During the evening, IFF was awarded three prizes for men's fragrances:

- Prix des professionnels, best men's fragrance launch for Match Point by Lacoste

- People's Choice Award, best adaptation of an existing men's fragrance for L'Homme, the fragrance by Yves Saint Laurent, perfumers Juliette Karagueuzoglou, Anne Flipo and Dominique Ropion.

- Prix des experts, affiliated brand category for Bitter Peach by Tom Ford, perfumers Laurent Le Guernec and Jean-Marc Chaillan And two prizes in the women's category:

The company also won two awards in the women's category:

- Professional award, best women's fragrance launch for My Way Eau by Giorgio Armani, perfumer, perfumers Carlos Benaim and Bruno Jovanovic.

- People's Choice Award, best adaptation of an existing women's fragrance for La Vie Est Belle Intensément by Lancôme, perfumers Dominique Ropion and Anne Flipo

Thanks to perfumers, these artists of the invisible, whose work is recognized the world over, perfumery is an art form, the bearer of legacies and discoveries," says IFF. Behind each fragrance lies a story, rooted in transmission and heritage, and creators of emotions, working behind the scenes. Through these awards, the work of perfumers, these artists behind the scenes, composing unique fragrances that embody personal desires, vocations and inspirations, is highlighted".

"From flowers to perfumes": perfume creation at the center of multiple issues

By
The editorial staff
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A skilful combination of raw materials through balance and structure, perfume and its various applications are synonymous with unique products capable of addressing each individual's intimate memory, emotions and sensations experienced one day. While the perfumer's creativity, vision and feeling are decisive, they are not enough to meet this challenge. 

Perfumers have to deal with the continuous contribution of all facets of new, innovative raw materials, the ability to respond to and sometimes even anticipate new consumer aspirations, as well as adapt to the perpetual, complex changes in regulations.

At the conference organized by the Innov'Alliance competitiveness cluster, "From flowers to fragrances... and flavors: know-how and innovation", these know-how and related issues will be recalled. 

Firstly, the Héritage(s), histoire vivante des parfumeurs project, a unique collection of testimonials collected by the Perfumum Endowment Fund, will be presented by its Chairman Francis Kurkdjian, recently appointed Creative Director of Parfums Christian Dior. This immaterial, human and living memory, a unique historical corpus for perfume lovers, offers a personal and distanced look at perfumery and evokes their vision of the future.

In recent years, modern perfumery has tended to evolve towards a more gourmand and gustatory universe, ever more realistic. From warm, gourmand notes like chocolate, praline, vanilla or caramel to fruity, juicy notes like raspberry, passion fruit, strawberry or apricot, the expertise of the flavourist comes into its own! Aromaticians are therefore increasingly called upon to work with perfumers to help them create "3D" fragrances. The Robertet teams, with Emmanuelle Galimberti (aromatician) and Amandine Galliano (perfumer), will take participants on an olfactory and gustatory journey.

Nevertheless, regulation remains a prerequisite for creation. Authorizations, bans and restrictions fuel the daily evolution of the palette of flavourists and perfumers. Cécile Pinel, General Delegate of the Sniaa, and Jean-François Goursot will take a look back, but also a leap forward into the future, to give an idea of the impact of tomorrow's aromatic creation. 

To download the program :
https://pole-innovalliance.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/Flyer_Programme_FAP2021-4.pdf

Berkem unveils its new Skin'Calm active ingredient

By
Kristel Milet
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Skin'Calm, an extract of acacia robinia flower, designed to soothe sensitive skin damaged by stress or mask wearing.

Skin'Calm acacia flower extract is rich in sugars and polyphenols, both of which help fight against certain skin disorders by soothing the skin*, rebalancing the pH and correcting imperfections. Developed by Berkem, Skin'Calm is a highly anticipated ingredient for cosmetics professionals who want to offer products with a "maskne" effect.

An asset that meets current market expectations

According to a study by NPD Group, sales of facial care for acne or blemishes increased by 32% between 2019 and 2020. An increase that can be explained in particular by the stress and the wearing of the mask related to the health situation, known as the "maskne effect". The Skin'Calm active ingredient is aimed directly at this market.

Certified China Compliant, French Sourcing, Ecocert and 100 % of natural origin, it is used as an ingredient for soothing face care, body care, facial blemish reduction and facial balance creams.

"Skin'Calm acacia flower extract is a 3-in-1 ingredient that meets the high expectations of the cosmetics market. It acts on the skin's balance, has both soothing and anti-imperfection properties.says Charlène Martin, BtoB product manager for plant extraction.

About the "Maskné": Wearing a cloth or surgical mask creates a warm, humid and occlusive environment for the skin. This, along with friction, leads to an increase in sebum production. The appearance of redness, pimples and acne are called the "maskne effect".

Preclinical and clinical tests for the dermocosmetic industry: a symposium will be held on January 27 and 28, 2022 in Lyon

By
The editorial staff
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Skinobs and Cosmet'in Lyon announce the Cosmetotest symposium dedicated to preclinical and clinical tests for the dermocosmetic industry on January 27 and 28, 2022, at the ENS-Lyon.

This symposium, organized in partnership with the SFI2C and the DIIP and with the support of the AURA region and the Cosmebooste project, aims to allow cosmeticians from France and around the world :

  1. Listen to academic and applied lectures and interact with participants,
  2. To meet testing partners, exhibitors, CROs or instrumentation manufacturers,
  3. To participate in demonstrations of equipment by exhibitors.

It includes two highlights:

Thursday, January 27, 2022:

Preclinical evaluation in-tubo, in-vitroor ex-vivo

  • Session 1: Pollution - Inflammation - Allergies
  • Session 2: Sunlight - Pigmentation - Aging
  • Session 3: Evaluation of container-content interactions

Friday, January 28, 2022:

Clinical objectivation, in-vivo on humans

  • Session 1: Radiance of the complexion and shine of the hair
  • Session 2: Skin barrier function
  • Session 3: Sensitive skin    

Download the pre-program - Sign up

The complete program and registration details are available on www.skinobs.com and www.cosmetinlyon.com.

Givaudan Active Beauty Unveils Rosemary 01, a Natural Antioxidant Solution Developed by Green Fractionation

By
The editorial staff
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Givaudan Active Beauty expands its portfolio with the launch of [N.A.S.] Rosemary 01, a functional cosmetic ingredient and alternative to butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) that "surpasses its efficacy in a natural and organic way", according to Givaudan Active Beauty. Made by green fractionation from sustainable rosemary sourced mainly from Morocco, this new ingredient is said to offer antioxidant benefits superior to BHT and BHA and some natural solutions, while protecting botanical oils and stabilizing colors.

The ability to offer beauty products that perfectly retain their appearance, smell and color is essential in the cosmetics industry. This proof of product quality, visible to the consumer, ensures a positive perception and contributes to loyalty. However, it is still difficult today for formulators to create a formulation of 100 % natural origin due to the use of synthetic preservatives.

[N.A.S.] Rosemary 01 is a cosmos-approved ingredient made by green fractionation from hand-picked rosemary leaves, mainly sustainably sourced from the Atlas Mountains in Morocco.

Controlled by IDPack1With a comprehensive set of analyses including botanical observation, DNA analysis, HPTLC and HPLC measurement, this antioxidant solution is able to offer pure, natural claims to the cosmetics market.

Yohan Rolland, Global Category Manager, said: "The current set of synthetic antioxidants used in cosmetic products, such as BHA, BHT and synthetic tocopherols, are effective but challenged by a growing number of consumers. Our scientists have taken on the challenge of finding organic and even more effective alternatives to offer formulators a sustainable way to create finished cosmetic products with ingredients of 100 % natural origin."

Several tests have been carried out to demonstrate the effectiveness of [N.A.S.] Rosemary 01 compared to synthetic antioxidants. According to Givaudan Active Beauty, all demonstrated superior efficacy under difficult conditions of temperature and light exposure.

This demonstrates, according to the company:

  • that [N.A.S.] Rosemary 01 is an antioxidant, 2.3 times more effective than BHT, and 3.3 times more effective than BHA ,
  • that it can protect an MCT oil-soluble dye more than twice as well as BHT and its synthetic competitor,
  • that it can protect water-soluble dyes in emulsion more than twice as well as BHT and synthetic tocopherols.

"[N.A.S.] Rosemary 01 outperforms synthetic antioxidants in every category, making it one of the best natural alternatives on the cosmetics market."says Givaudan Active Beauty.

1. IDPack was developed by Givaudan Active Beauty's phytochemists to characterize the unique composition of a botanical raw material in order to demonstrate authenticity.

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