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Shiseido adopts manufacturing 2.0 solutions

Dassault Systèmes announces that Shiseido Company, Limited, an international manufacturer of beauty products founded 150 years ago and present in 120 countries, has signed a multi-year license agreement to implement its manufacturing operations management solutions at the group's main sites worldwide. In order to meet the expectations of consumers, who have shown such enthusiasm for its skincare and wellness products during the Covid19 pandemic, Shiseido wants to be able to implement more efficient production systems that resonate with its customers and contribute to brand loyalty.

The deployment of the "Perfect Production" solution based on Delmia Apriso applications and Dassault Systèmes' 3DExperience platform will support Shiseido's "Win 2023 and Beyond" digital transformation acceleration strategy, enabling the group to focus on improving plant productivity and reducing costs.

The "Perfect Production" solution and Delmia Apriso application will enable Shiseido to unify and standardize the management of its manufacturing operations, as well as the best practices implemented at its main production sites in Japan, Europe, the USA and other countries. According to Dassault Systèmes, by helping Shiseido improve end-to-end planning and optimize its operations, this unified collaborative virtual environment will increase operational performance, productivity and profitability, and help resolve manufacturing issues without affecting product quality. In addition, improved production flexibility in different regions will enable Shiseido to allocate its production resources with greater precision, maintain product quality and meet demand locally and worldwide.

"The pandemic has shown us that for a large number of consumers, skincare and wellness routines are a priority. By 2030, we aim to become a global leader in the cosmetics and personal well-being market, helping our customers to express their beauty and develop their well-being throughout their lives, says Atsunori Takano, General Manager of Information Technology (CTIO) for the Shiseido Group. We are convinced that Dassault Systèmes' leadership position in the cosmetics sector and the value its technology can bring to our manufacturing operations will fully support our growth strategy."

"As consumers' shift towards wellness accelerates across the globe, major players in the cosmetics industry will need to bring innovative new products to market faster than ever. With the 3DExperience platform, global manufacturers such as Shiseido have a real-time virtual manufacturing environment that gives them the agility they need to do more with existing factories and accelerate different aspects of manufacturing to expand the range of cosmetics and personal wellness products they offer their customers", says Philippe Loeb, Vice President of Consumer Products and Distribution at Dassault Systèmes.

Soon the fifth edition of the Olfaction & Perspectives conference

Nearly 200 participants and some 15 speakers are expected to attend the 5th edition.e edition of the "Olfaction & Perspectives" conference organized by Cosmetic Valley in partnership with Isipca, the leading national and international school for the perfume, cosmetics and aromatic food industries. The conference will be held in Clichy La Garenne, in the Boucle Nord Seine area, which has been a partner of the cluster since 2019 and is home to major players in the perfume and cosmetics industry: Givaudan, l'Oréal, Albéa, Pochet, Procter & Gamble, Arkema, Eugene Perma, etc.

Edition 2022: 4 topical themes

La 5e edition of the "Olfaction & Perspectives" conference will take stock of the impact of Covid in the field of olfaction: its symptoms, recovery methods, but also the way in which brands have adapted their sales practices. In connection with this theme, several presentations will analyze the management of an odor-free environment.

In addition to Covid, the congress will look at how brands are managing the natural trend that is so essential today, and what a natural scent means to the consumer. Another hot topic is artificial intelligence, which can now be used to develop fragrance products. Participants will be able to exchange points of view with various experts. 

Congress 2022 themes

  • What impact does COVID have on Olfaction?
  • Good smells and bad smells: our daily benchmarks...
  • Does natural have a specific scent?
  • Artificial intelligence and olfactory creation: relevant?

Read more

Stoelzle Masnières Perfumery signatures

On March 2, to coincide with the presentation of his fall-winter 2022-2023 women's collection at Paris Fashion Week, Belgian designer Dries Van Noten unveiled his beauty collection of fragrances and make-up.

Creative director of the brand that bears his name, Dries Van Noten joined the Puig Group in 2018. Passionate about flowers, which he has long cultivated in his Antwerp garden, it is therefore, as he likes to say, in "creative ping-pong" with 10 perfumers that he has realized his dream and expressed his ethical and artisanal vision through this superb line of 10 genderless Eaux de Parfum.

The brand has entrusted Stoelzle Masnières with the exclusive creation of these refillable glass and decorative bottles, in the image of Dries Van Noten's world of contrasts and mastery of color.

This collaboration between the development teams has enabled us to meet several challenges:

  • Develop 10 decor versions for each fragrance. 8 bottles were lacquered and 2 powder-coated (exclusive STO/Quali Glass Coat 2.0 process): Raving Rose and Santal Greenery.
  • Fit a new "watchmaker" type ring with notches.
  • Provide several solutions for gluing the shells to ensure perfect adhesion for each of the beautiful materials chosen for these 10 projects: porcelain, wood, metal, resin, which make these bottles decorative objects.

Refillable 100 ml bottles - to enable refilling, a key is sold to unscrew the pump kit, along with a funnel.

Beauty: the French want more transparency from brands

Klarna, a specialist in payment, shopping and banking services, has published a report confirming that French consumers are changing the way they consume beauty products, with well-being and the environment becoming the main purchasing drivers.

This new survey of French beauty consumers reveals that the French are looking for cosmetics that reflect their aspirations for a healthy lifestyle, as well as their environmental and ethical concerns. Brand transparency is a priority for 78 % of respondents, who feel that brands should be clearer about their sustainability credentials. More than three out of five consumers (64 %) read the packaging of the beauty products they buy more carefully. They also want to consume products that are more respectful of the environment and health. Of the 67 % consumers who use products with natural ingredients, half do so to reduce environmental problems.

"Today's definition of beauty is closely linked to the sense of well-being and health not only of the French, but also of consumers around the world, explains Eric Petitfils, Managing Director of Klarna in France. Today, French beauty product buyers expect products to be transparent, respectful of their health but also of the environment, paying more and more attention to the ingredients used and the labels obtained by brands."

Wellness

  • Health and well-being are at the heart of beauty product buyers' preoccupations. 71 % of French buyers prefer their well-being to their appearance: the main motivation for buying cosmetics is to please themselves (48 %) - particularly Generation X (50%) and baby-boomers (63%). Ultimately, one in five consumers buys a beauty product to feel better about themselves.
  • Beauty routines are being rethought... two out of five cosmetics buyers (36 %) say they spend more on skincare than make-up, a figure that increases with the age of the respondents (generation Z: 38 %, baby-boomers: 53 %). At the same time, three out of 10 beauty product users say they have prioritized skincare over make-up since the pandemic, and 20 % say their beauty routine has been simplified, with fewer steps.
  • ...while beauty accessories and tools gain in popularity. At the same time, more than one in two consumers (55 %) use skincare appliances as part of their beauty routine. The facial cleansing brush is the most popular tool among French shoppers (65 %), closely followed by jade rollers (39%), particularly among Generation Z (52 %) and Millennials (40 %).

Innovation

  • Personalization and innovation are key consumer expectations in France. Overall, beauty product buyers appreciate the innovative services offered by brands. Two out of five consumers (39%) would be interested in personalized skincare recommendations, as well as tailor-made products (23 %). Cosmetics shoppers are also interested in using smart mirrors (16 %) and augmented reality applications to try on make-up virtually (15 %).
  • Word-of-mouth and social networks are the main sources of inspiration for discovering new beauty trends. Most cosmetics buyers also say they are inclined to try new beauty trends through friends and acquaintances (38%). What's more, three out of ten people (30%) are encouraged to try out new beauty trends by discovering them on social networks (TikTok, Youtube, Instagram) - especially for younger generations (Gen Z 57 %, Millennials 41 %). 

CSR

  • Sustainable development is essential. Today's beauty buyers are looking for brands and products that reflect their values. Four out of five buyers (78 %) expect greater clarity from brands, and think they should be more transparent about their sustainability credentials. They also attach importance to the legibility of ingredients, and nearly two out of three (64 %) consult packaging more carefully when buying cosmetics, particularly to identify certifications and labels (58%).
  • Natural results and "clean beauty" at the top of consumer expectations. Seven out of ten respondents (67 %) say they use natural and organic products. Their main motivations are health (48 %), the reduction of environmental problems (47 %) and the absence of animal testing (45 %).

Full results are available here

L'Occitane and VPI sign their first eco-refill in recycled PP 100%

 The L'Occitane en Provence brand has been committed to reducing the environmental footprint of its packaging since its inception, and wishes to fully integrate it into a circular economy approach. The increase of reusable or refillable solutions is at the heart of its strategy since its first eco-refill launched in 2008. 
Today, VPI, a French specialist in the injection of plastic parts for the luxury industry, is carrying out a new ambitious and innovative project for the brand: a new type of refill for one of its iconic products, the Utra Rich Shea Body Cream.

 New refill and new material 

Eco-responsibility is at the heart of L'Occitane's attention. Its strong commitment to CSR is reflected in its formulations and selection of ingredients, as well as in its packaging and accessories. The products are designed according to the principles of eco-design and the Ultra Rich Shea Body Cream refill uses several levers to minimize its environmental impact. 
Beyond the implementation of a refill, L'Occitane teams have chosen to use a PP 100 % PCR (post consumer recycled) material. They are thus working to revalorize fossil resources and to better integrate L'Occitane in the circular economy process. 

The PP 100 % PCR cup offers the benefits of preserving natural resources, supporting recycling channels and reducing the environmental footprint of the entire supply chain due to the inherent lightness of the material. 
The use of recycled PP 100 % and the creation of the cup are real technical advances for which VPI has demonstrated its commitment. The management of batches of recycled material, their traceability, the dimensional control of a 200 ml format, all within a tight development schedule, are the real feats achieved by VPI for L'Occitane. 

Reinventing the new gesture of an iconic product packaging 

The 200 ml Shea Butter Ultra Rich Body Cream refill represented a major technical challenge. L'Occitane called upon VPI's know-how to meet a double challenge, including the mastery of a new material and the implementation of a new process. 
The collaboration of the teams, involving a design study on the grip, for unclipping and reclipping, has enabled the invention of an intuitive and pleasant gesture. The cup, with a capacity of 200 ml, heat-sealed after filling, is sold alone, and is positioned in the aluminum packaging acquired at the time of the first purchase. 

"At VPI, we are honored to work with committed companies like L'Occitane en Provence. We thank the teams in place who, upstream, think about eco-design and who, in the development and industrialization of products, invest themselves so that the reflections lead to beautiful projects really eco-designed. We are proud to have been able to complete all the research carried out on recycled materials and to see such ambitious action plans come to fruition, said Marc Beltrami, VPI's Sales Director. 

"The Shea Butter Ultra Rich Body Cream refill solution allows us to significantly reduce our dependence on plastic compared to the old product, saving over 40 tons annually. It also meets our ambition to maximize our use of post-consumer recycled plastic. VPI's teams were able to meet this challenge perfectly". said David Bayard, R&D Packaging Director of L'Occitane en Provence. 

The Cosmetic Victories 2022: six finalists

Six finalists were chosen from among the 80 projects from 18 countries that applied for the 7ᵉ edition of "The Cosmetic Victories" international research and innovation competition. Retained by a selection committee of international scientific experts, the applications are carriers of an innovation or research work applicable to perfumery-cosmetics.

The two prizes (Academic Prize and Industrial Prize) will be awarded by a jury of reference in charge of distinguishing the winners among these six finalists. Each of the winners will receive a prize of 10,000 euros and will be supported by Cosmetic Valley.

Academic Category

  • Center de Recherches sur les macromolécules végétales - CNRS Grenoble (France) : Carbogel : A Simple and Eco-Friendly Carbohydrate-Based Gelling Agent for Oily Phase 
    The project focuses on the supramolecular gelation of organic liquids, such as oils, solvents or fatty esters, by monosaccharide derivatives that self-assemble into a 3D network. The "sweet" gelators are synthesized by an eco-friendly and efficient method (reaction in water). Gelling is performed by sonication, or by heating/cooling, or by dilution. The gel can be used as a stimuli-sensitive matrix for the controlled delivery of cosmetic agents. Carbogel contributes to "green" and sustainable cosmetics by limiting our environmental and social impact.
  • CNRS - Sorbonne University (France) : New biosurfactants for functional formulations with biopolymers
    The project aims to develop innovative stimuli-responsive formulations based on amphiphilic molecules of microbial origin (AM), biotensioactives, and biopolymers (BP). AMs are stimuli-responsive molecules produced by fermentation. They are 100% biosourced, biodegradable and biocompatible. Their multiple phases (micelles, fibers, vesicles...) form in diluted water at room temperature and can modify BP properties (elasticity, encapsulation-release, hydrogenation) by a simple change of pH, temperature and ionic strength.
  • Wageningen University and Research (Netherlands): Organic microalgal farming and milking for cosmetic ingredients
    Microalgae use carbon dioxide and nutrients to produce molecules of interest considered as sustainable resources. In this context, a unique cell-milking system will be developed to produce emulsifiers, gels, oils, fragrances and antioxidants from microalgae. The system will use low intensity electric fields coupled with eutectic solvents of natural origin.

Industrial category

  • Bioinspir (France) : New generation of sustainable fragrances with ecocatalysis
    Bioinspir is developing a new sustainable chemistry chain based on the use of ecocatalysts, catalysts of plant origin. Ecocatalysts allow the eco-responsible and bioinspired synthesis of a wide range of cosmetic and perfumery ingredients. Fragrances such as methyl dihydrojasmonate (Hedione) and linalool oxide have been synthesized in state-of-the-art green chemistry processes combining efficiency, speed, naturalness and eco-responsibility.
  • The SkinDNA Company Pty Ltd (Australia): SkinRNA Micro-cell Test
    A world first, this epigenetic diagnostic test is repeatable in patch and laboratory settings that quantifies the effectiveness of skin care through real-time gene expression activity. The device collects more than 15,000 genes, while its algorithms provide gene expression activity scores for skin functions, including collagen and elastin production and skin inflammation. After product intervention, a second test is performed to measure the new gene activity against the initial benchmarks. Consumers can then repeat the tests at regular intervals to track and monitor the genetic improvement of the skin without waiting for visible signs.
  • PolymerExpert (France) : EstoGel Green - Nature Inspired Polymer
    EstoGel Green is a rheology modifier for fatty phase with high suspensory capacity. Based on a supramolecular approach, it can produce transparent and shear sensitive oily gels with a soft and natural feel. 100 % bio-based, Cosmos-approved and globally approved, EstoGel Green is a unique thickener, according to the company. According to PolymerExpert, it combines performance, naturalness and sensoriality. This eco-designed and easy-to-use ingredient is a key ally in the development of a new generation of responsible cosmetic products.

The awards ceremony will be broadcast live on Cosmetic Valley's Youtube channel on Tuesday, March 22, 2022, at 4:15 pm.

Enzymatically recycled PET

Carbios announces that it has validated the 3ᵉ and final technical stage of the CE-PET research project, co-financed by Ademe (Agence de l'environnement et de la maîtrise de l'énergie), and for which Carbios is lead partner alongside its academic partner TWB. This breakthrough confirms the potential of Carbios' enzymatic recycling process, C-Zyme. This ground-breaking innovation makes it possible to produce, from any PET waste, including textiles, a wide variety of products of equivalent quality to those of petro-sourced origin.

Worldwide, almost 90 million tonnes of PET are produced every year, of which over 2/3 are used to manufacture fibres. However, only 13 % of textile waste is recycled to date, and mainly in downcycling, i.e. in lower-quality applications (such as padding, insulation or rags). By producing a pilot-scale white PET 100 % fiber enzymatically recycled from colored textile waste, Carbios aims to open up the circular economy to the textile industry. According to the company, C-Zyme is now on the verge of industrialization, and will soon enable leading brands to move closer to their sustainable development objectives.

Separate collection of textile waste soon to be mandatory in Europe

From January 1, 2025, separate collection of textile waste, already in place in some countries, will be made mandatory for all European Union member states (European Waste Directive 2018/851). The process developed by Carbios will thus be one of the solutions that will enable this waste to be recovered, making it part of a genuine circular economy model.

These technological validations were carried out as part of the CE-PET research project, co-funded by the French Environment and Energy Management Agency (Ademe). In particular, the project aims to develop Carbios' enzymatic PET recycling process for textile waste. The C-Zyme technology is complementary to thermomechanical recycling, and will make it possible to treat plastic and textile waste deposits that are currently not or poorly recovered. Carbios received €827,200 (€206,800 in subsidies and €620,400 in repayable advances) to validate this stage of the project.

The world's first PET biorecycling plant

Carbios has announced its collaboration with Indorama Ventures in the construction of a reference plant using Carbios' PET biorecycling technology at Indorama Ventures' production site in France (Longlaville, Meurthe-et-Moselle).

This unique biorecycling plant combines the science and technology of Carbios with the world-class manufacturing capabilities of Indorama Ventures. This collaboration will meet the growing needs of consumers and major consumer goods companies for more sustainable packaging, including Carbios' partners and shareholders (L'Oréal, Michelin, L'Occitane, Nestlé Waters, PepsiCo, Suntory Beverage & Food Europe).

The aim is to build and operate the world's first PET biorecycling plant in France. The plant will have an estimated processing capacity of around 50,000 tonnes of post-consumer PET waste per year, equivalent to 2 billion bottles or 2.5 billion trays.

The investment required for the project is estimated at 150 million euros for the Carbios technology, including an additional purification step, which has been integrated into the process. At the same time, an estimated 50 million euros will be invested in preparing the site infrastructure. The project is expected to create around 150 direct and indirect full-time jobs.

Paris Packaging Week: the winners of the Innovations Awards are announced

Organized as part of Paris Packaging Week, the annual Innovations Awards celebrate the best packaging innovations in fragrances, cosmetics, skincare, premium beverages, aerosols and dispensing systems. 

Since their inception, the Innovation Awards at each show have recognized the year's most outstanding packaging products on the European and international markets. 

They are awarded by three independent juries of packaging technical experts, professionals from the most influential brands on the market, and journalists representing the profession. All are looking for packaging that demonstrates real innovation and pushes the boundaries in terms of creativity, packaging technology and, increasingly, sustainability initiatives. The juries met at the end of 2021 to examine all the entries and score them according to the criteria for each category. 

The 2022 prize list in figures :

  • 180 entries in competition
  • 47 jury members
  • 58 award-winning products
  • 27 awards
  • 31 certificates

The Innovation Awards will be presented in person at three official ceremonies on June 29 and 30, 2022 at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, at the heart of Paris Packaging Week.

For the full list of winners :
www.parispackagingweek.com/fr/awards

Expanscience joins the B Corp Beauty Coalition

A company with a mission, and once again certified B Corp, Expanscience joins forces with 40 B Corp companies worldwide to improve social and environmental practices in the cosmetics industry.

A French, family-owned company, Expanscience has been committed to CSR for over 16 years. As a company with a mission, Expanscience structures its action around its raison d'être - "Helping individuals shape their well-being"- and is committed to making a voluntary contribution to the common good within the framework of the Pacte law. With its new CSR strategy impACT Expanscience has set ambitious targets to accelerate its transition to a positive-impact, regenerative company. As part of this, Expanscience is continuously developing its model and offering in dermocosmetics (Mustela and Babo Botanicals), the production of active cosmetics and rheumatology, and is developing cooperation with numerous players to co-construct more sustainable models.

Expanscience, once again B Corp certified

The international B Corp certification is one of the most demanding in the world. It distinguishes and helps to advance companies that integrate societal and environmental objectives into their activities and business model. To date, 4460 companies worldwide are B Corp certified. This certification covers five key areas of impact: governance, employees, the community, the environment and customers. The principle of interdependence aims to advance not only the company itself, but also its entire ecosystem (partners, suppliers, customers).

After being the 1st pharmaceutical and dermocosmetic laboratory in the world to be certified in 2018, Expanscience renews its certification and moves up 10 points. The assessment results show progress in many areas:

  • Measuring, reducing and defining a trajectory to contribute to global carbon neutrality by 2030,
  • Ecodesign of Mustela products and analysis of their life cycle,
  • Formulation and increase in the proportion of organic ingredients in Mustela products,
  • Certification of plant-based supply chains (Fair for Life), raw materials and cosmetics (Bio/EWG verified),
  • Social action for employees,
  • Ethics and transparency,
  • Joint actions with Expanscience communities and stakeholders to develop more sustainable offers and models.

As a member of the Convention des Entreprises pour le Climat, a signatory of Febea's Plastic Act and a partner in the Reset for Cosmetics program, Expanscience has joined the B Corp Beauty Coalition.

Transforming the cosmetics industry

Expanscience joins forces with nearly 40 B Corp companies in the beauty sector to found the B Corp Beauty Coalition.

The ambition of this international alliance of B Corp companies is to implement profound changes to improve the social and environmental footprint of the cosmetics industry. Its members are committed to taking action to improve the key issues facing the cosmetics industry. In particular: ingredient sourcing and sustainability, greener logistics, packaging responsibility.

Jean-Paul Berthomé, President of Laboratoires Expanscience, has been elected member of the B Corp Beauty Coalition board. This board is made up of 12 members from 12 companies of complementary size and activity, based in 8 different countries. In this capacity, Jean-Paul Berthomé will play a special role in representing the coalition and raising its profile within the cosmetics industry.

"With our Mustela and Babo Botanicals brands and our active cosmetics business, we want to contribute to the transformation of the cosmetics industry. The B Corp Beauty Coalition enables us to take concrete action alongside companies that share our convictions. Together, we want to embody a new approach to beauty and accelerate the sector's transition. This collective is essential to address major planetary challenges such as contributing to global carbon neutrality, combating the destruction of biodiversity and working towards zero waste".says Jean-Paul Berthomé.

Zozio and Actility join forces for tank monitoring

At a time when the French cosmetics market is booming, according to Febea with 23 % of global market share, Zozio, an Industry 4.0 start-up, and Abeeway, a market specialist in traceability devices, are teaming up to offer a tracking and tracing solution. 

This solution works for a variety of industrial assets, with a first successful project in the cosmetics industry, but not only that, as it is an agile solution that can be adjusted to all industries. Abeeway's expertise in outdoor geolocation systems, coupled with Zozio's flow management service, made this unique project a real success, according to both companies.

To compensate for a lack of visibility in the factory, Zozio offers a solution - a digital twin of industrial logistics - that supports operators in their daily work. It enables production processes to be visualized, understood, analyzed and optimized.   

According to Zozio, the benefits for customers are numerous: they can retrieve field data in real time, and control and optimize their logistics flows. The result is improved performance, reduced raw material losses, and more eco-responsible production thanks to fewer tanks.  

Looking for a reliable partner with expertise in outdoor geolocation, Zozio approached Abeeway, a subsidiary of Actility. Abeeway is a leader in IoT solutions based on LPWA (Low Power Wide Area) networks, and offers high-precision Track&Trace systems (to 10 meters) with the greatest autonomy, unique on the market.   

Abeeway's low-energy devices provide years of continuous use thanks to LoRaWAN connectivity. The devices operate both indoors and outdoors thanks to their multi-technology geolocation system, integrating GPS, Abeeway's patented low-power GPS, WiFi Sniffing, Bluetooth Low Energy and Bluetooth LE Beaconing for precise indoor tracking.  

Abeeway devices combine state-of-the-art localization technologies, robust hardware, meticulous selection of high-performance, low-power components and uncompromising software optimization. This enables flexible behavior, highly responsive to changing needs, and guarantees the location of goods and people in a variety of coverage scenarios.

Zozio has completed a successful deployment with Abeeway & Actility for one of France's leading luxury brands. The brand uses the integrated Zozio-Abeeway solution to track high-end perfume tanks on production sites. A similar use case has already been implemented for its customer L'Oréal, world leader in the beauty industry. L'Oréal's Cosmétique Active Production sites called on Zozio to optimize flows within and in transit between its Vichy and La Roche-Posay plants. 

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