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Start-up and large groups: the backstage of a meeting

site-industries-cosmetiques Start-ups and major groups: behind the scenes of a meeting between Robert and his coach.

French Tech by Pays de Grasse, supported by the Club des entrepreneurs du Pays de Grasse, is organizing a zoom conference in partnership with Grasse Expertise, Robertet & MyCoach: "Start-up & large groups: 'another story'".

Rendezvous: Thursday June 17, 2021 from 12pm to 1pm. Free but compulsory registration at https://www.weezevent.com/robertet-my-coach-start-up-grand-groupe-une-autre-histoire

This webinar will highlight the different facets and behind-the-scenes aspects of a human and territorial encounter. Speakers include :

  • Fabien Giausseran, Deputy Director of the Robertet Group's Fragrance Division,
  • Cédric Messina, CEO and founder of MyCoach.

The debate will be moderated by Frederick Besson, CEO and founder of Perfumist and member of the French Tech Côte d'Azur by Pays de Grasse workshop.

The two speakers will discuss the relationship between major corporations and start-ups, and talk about the different phases involved in a successful collaboration. Cédric Messina and Fabien Giausseran will look at the details that can encourage large corporations and start-ups to work together.

Using the example of the birth of Okaia, the result of a marriage between two local companies, they will share their experiences and the local dynamic that can be generated by collaboration between start-ups and major groups.

Okaia, an innovative perfume company, produces and markets exclusive fragrances for the French soccer team. The company offers a new way of conceiving perfume, creating limited-edition ephemeral fragrances sold exclusively on the internet.

The ADF&PCD and PLD Innovation Awards ceremonies will be held on June 22 and 23, 2021

Easyfairs announces that the winners of the ADF&PCD and PLD Innovation Awards will be unveiled at three separate digital ceremonies on June 22 and 23, 2021.

The ceremonies will take place on the following dates:

  • PCD Innovation Awards: June 22, 2021 from 1:00 to 2:45 p.m.
  • ADF Innovation Awards: June 22, 2021 from 3:00 to 4:00 p.m.
  • PLD Innovation Awards: June 23, 2021 from 1:00 to 2:15 p.m.

The ADF&PCD and PLD Innovation Awards recognize the best packaging innovations and designs from international and independent brands, design agencies and packaging suppliers. 

This year marked the first edition of the PLD Innovation Awards, which celebrate the best packaging innovations and designs for wines, spirits and premium soft drinks. The PCD Innovation Awards, which celebrate packaging excellence for the fragrance, cosmetics and skincare sector, were first presented in 2001, while the ADF Innovation Awards for the aerosol and dispensing market were first presented in 2007. 

A record 160 entries were received this year! The projects were evaluated by an influential jury comprising packaging directors from major brands, leading designers and independent experts. 

Christelle Anya, Director of Content and Community at ADF&PCD and PLD Paris, comments: " This year's Innovation Awards have highlighted some incredible innovations, and the whole team is delighted to reveal the winners. As well as celebrating the creativity and ingenuity of our industry, these awards provide a real insight into the trends that are defining packaging development today, and will be essential insights for anyone looking to understand the key challenges facing the packaging supply chain in 2021."

Perfumery: Givaudan creates an innovation laboratory with Tmall (Alibaba)

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman in front of a neon sign in a Perfumery innovation laboratory.

Givaudan, the global specialist in flavor creation, has entered into a groundbreaking partnership with Tmall, Alibaba Group's online consumer e-commerce (B2C) platform, to launch the T-Lab source innovation lab and seize digital opportunities in flavor creation in China.

The T-Lab source innovation lab will leverage Givaudan's cutting-edge flavor creation solutions and production capabilities in China, amplified by Tmall's consumer behavior data capabilities and partner ecosystem.

Maurizio Volpi, President of Parfums et Beauté: "This collaboration with Tmall in China is a major step forward in our commitment to promote digital innovation in the fragrance industry. This type of initiative is essential to Givaudan's 2025 strategy: broadening and deepening strategic relationships with suppliers, start-ups and partners, while enhancing collaboration and co-creation with customers to design innovative solutions for the future. Access to Tmall's consumer data will enable us to stay ahead of trends and design products for existing and emerging Tmall brands very quickly."

As Tmall's first fragrance innovation partner, Givaudan will receive flavor-related opportunities at the idea generation stage, and will have access to Tmall's brand ecosystem and data capabilities, such as the online search module of Tmall's Innovation Center. This unique opportunity will reduce the total design time for fine fragrance products from 40 to 4 weeks, optimized to seize digital opportunities.

Yaling Li, Director of Parfums Chine et Corée, commented: "We have been observing the development of the perfume market in China for thirty years. Today, there is strong demand for locally-designed products. The T-Lab partnership enables us to anticipate consumer trends by leveraging behavioral data to quickly come up with innovative and original product offerings and supporting the major pillars of Givaudan's digital strategy in China."

This exclusive partnership will enable Givaudan to design new product development proposals jointly with online retailers such as Tmall and its partners, before offering them to its customer brands.

Yu Su, T-Lab's General Manager of Brand Marketing, explains: "This collaboration is a perfect illustration of our raison d'être, which is to help brands succeed in the Chinese market by defining new channels and strategies. We believe our insights and data will complement the existing capabilities of industry leaders like Givaudan to continue shaping the fragrance sector in China."

This unique collaboration has already produced a new line of fragrances inspired by the Chinese literary classic "Peregrination to the West", including two eaux de parfum, a reed diffuser and hand and body creams. These products were developed following the accelerated nine-step process, from data research to final product prototyping, making this new process a new industry benchmark for collaborative innovation.

TechnicoFlor commits itself to the women of Burkina Faso

site-industries-cosmetiques A group of TechnicoFlor women in their green and yellow shirts stand beside a cart, demonstrating their commitment to the women of Burkina Faso.

Committed and responsible, Technicoflor, a family-run company specializing in the creation of fragrance compositions, plant extracts, aromatic raw materials and food flavors, has been working to protect the planet ever since. "Trying to do tomorrow a little better than today has always been our guiding principle".says François-Patrick Sabater, President of TechnicoFlor. Since 2017, the company has been supporting the NGO L'Homme et l'Environnement in a solidarity economy and biodiversity protection project in Burkina Faso.

Burkina Faso has been experiencing dramatic environmental degradation for many years. Indeed, the development of cotton monoculture, particularly in the forest corridor along the Kabore Tambi National Park, and the massive use of chemical fertilizers threaten both elephants (the south of the country is home to the largest community of elephants in West Africa) and the sustainable development of the region's populations, who are among the poorest in the world. However, the region is rich in shea trees, the harvesting of which would boost the local economy and maintain biodiversity while preserving the elephants. However, the local population - and women in particular - will have to find more financial benefits than in cotton cultivation.

Elephas Project TechnicoFlor Burkina Faso@ Technicoflor8- CSR - Product information

That's where TechnicoFlor comes in. Since 2017 the company has been supporting the Elephas program of the NGO L'Homme et l'Environnement, a solidarity initiative promoting the production of shea butter, the manufacture and sale of cosmetics and soaps, as an alternative to cotton cultivation. The company graciously provides the perfume concentrates that go into the soaps sold by the women on the local market, helping to increase their competitiveness. To date, the fruit of the soap production and its marketing in France by the Elephas Paris brand has already enabled the financing of 2,000 meals at the school canteen, 500 kilos of cereals for rural schools and the travel of schoolchildren from six villages around the elephant corridor.

Today, TechnicoFlor is going one step further. Its funding will enable a group of women to receive training in beekeeping development, acquire equipment and launch a new sector. This funding will then help to build a well to provide drinking water for the local population and water the nurseries. It will also help develop a small chicken and rooster farm for 15 local women.

"By committing ourselves to this project, we want to help populations without local support to invest in the protection of biodiversity. As a perfume composition company, we felt it was important to participate in the enhancement of natural resources and to initiate the development of more equitable supply chains".explains Maxime Gransart, Assistant General Manager of TechnicoFlor.

Biodegradable impregnated fabric masks

site-industries-cosmetiques A biodegradable fabric mask with a green leaf.

Euro Wipes, part of the Anjac Health & Beauty group, a specialist in wipes, cotton discs and impregnated fabric masks for hygiene, cosmetics and health applications, has set itself apart by launching the first natural, compostable, biodegradable 100 % fabric masks, packaged in recyclable paper bags.

Euro Wipes places sustainable innovation at the heart of its strategy, and in particular invested during 2020 in a new production line for support masks to complete its dermo-cosmetic and cosmetic product offering.

The impregnating substrates for Euro Wipes fabric masks are plant-based, compostable and biodegradable. But to meet the challenge of a 100 % compostable product, Euro Wipes has also developed a compostable formula with 99.5 % ingredients of natural origin. And all this without compromising on effectiveness.

On the packaging side, the 100 % made in France recyclable paper bag is authorized to join the established paper recycling network. 

"Euro Wipes thus continues its progress towards ever more innovative products combining efficiency, practicality and durability".the company says.

Eco-design at the heart of development

From formula to packaging, Euro Wipes is committed to eco-design in the development of its products. With a 100 % compostable finished product (backing + formula), Euro Wipes masks can be certified "OK Compost Home". 

A compostable product is by nature biodegradable, but the reverse is not always true. The new Euro Wipes masks, under the action of natural microorganisms at room temperature and in an oxygen-rich environment, disintegrate into soil-like by-products. The latter can then be reused as a natural fertilizer. This is no mean feat when you consider that the law calls for all households to have biowaste sorted at source by 2025, so that biowaste is no longer thrown away in residual household waste.

Euro Wipes also confirms the clean and safe nature of its innovations, thanks to the tests carried out on the products developed and to the Beautylitic formulation intelligence tool, with which the entire Anjac group works closely.

Powder cosmetics: two new hair care products from Nuwen

site-industries-cosmetiques Keywords: bottle, eye cream, container, wooden tableModified description: Two new hair care products, a bottle of eye cream and a container, presented on a wooden table.

Nuwen, the powder cosmetics specialist, is expanding its range with a new hair care line comprising a dry shampoo and a styling powder, in response to market trends for natural, water-free cosmetics.

Dry shampoo absorbs excess sebum and leaves hair clean and fresh. It is also available in colored versions (blond, chestnut and black) to blend perfectly with hair color. And the invisible, ultra-light styling powder gives hair texture and volume.

The minimalist formulas are 100 % natural and available in certified cosmos natural and cosmos organic for the dry shampoo and certifiable cosmos natural and cosmos organic for the styling powder. To offer a complete range of products, we also provide adapted, eco-responsible packaging solutions.

Read more : www.nuwen.fr

Cosmetics: the "Safe Beauty" trend is driving the market recovery

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman using a cell phone while shopping in a store.

"Innovation and digitalization are the success factors for sustainability, efficiency and safety," says Emidio Zorzella, CEO of Antares Vision Group.

Consumers are increasingly interested and informed about quality, origin of ingredients and sustainability of production processes. At the same time, they are increasingly attracted to the brand story and values associated with the product they are buying.

In France, the post-pandemic cosmetics sector had a contrasting year in 2020: a contraction in sales of 20 %, a historic decline on exports of 11.8 %, the 1st since 2009, and an increase of 20.7% in exports to China, instead of 48 % in 2019 (source DGDDI and FEBEA 2021), companies in the sector are relying on innovative trends to resume their rise.

Quality, transparency and sustainability are the requirements of Safe Beauty

Safe Beauty is one of the main trends in the industry, which sees health and beauty closely linked in the purchase of "transparent" products, with greater attention paid to brands and sustainability from end to end of the supply chain, both in terms of the raw materials used and the production processes and packaging characteristics. According to the ESV Digital study, Slow Cosmetics is also on the rise! With time spent at home on the rise and the wearing of masks, habits have been turned upside down. The French are looking for ecological, healthy, intelligent and reasonable cosmetics!

The pandemic has also seen an increase in online sales worldwide, and the trend continues to grow. In France, e-commerce increased by 42 % compared to the previous year, cosmetics represent 10% of e-commerce in 2020 compared to 7 % in 2019 (source ESV Digital March 2021). This scenario increases the risks for the beauty and cosmetics sector in terms of counterfeiting and proliferation of parallel markets, with repercussions for brand reputation and consumer trust.

"To meet this new evolution of needs, Antares Vision Group - a company listed since April 2019 on the Italian stock exchange on the AIM market dedicated to dynamic and competitive SMEs - offers specific solutions for the beauty industry to guarantee quality, security, integrity and complete traceability of the supply chain," emphasizes Nicolas Perrin, Director of the subsidiary Antares Vision France. Our traceability solutions are tailored to the requirements of Safe Beauty."

An international specialist in the pharmaceutical sector for Track & Trace hardware and software solutions (anti-counterfeiting and supply chain transparency), the Antares Vision group is one of the leading players in inspection systems (quality control) and intelligent data management (production efficiency and digitization of the end-to-end supply chain: from raw materials to the end consumer).

From pharmaceuticals to cosmetics

By exploiting the know-how acquired during more than twenty years of experience in the pharmaceutical industry, the Antares Vision Group is a reference partner for a particularly demanding cosmetics industry sector, both for consumers, who are increasingly better informed and demand guaranteed and transparent products, and for manufacturers and brands, whose challenges concern the efficiency and optimization, but also the sustainability of production processes.

This is thanks to innovative solutions for automatic visual inspection (which guarantee the total quality, safety and integrity of cosmetic products, thanks to precise control of ingredients, production processes and packaging), end-to-end traceability (which allows the complete life cycle of a product to be tracked, achieving a true revolution in the supply chain thanks to the creation of a digital identity for each unit) and intelligent data management (to maximize production efficiency and consumer experience, also thanks to artificial intelligence).

"Innovation and research are the two key factors in the development of the cosmetics industry in recent years. The constant improvement in the quality and transparency of the products we use daily for personal care is the result of studies and the implementation of new technologies for process optimization and supply chain management. In order to continue to compete in the major international markets, the digitization process is the real trump card: collecting data, transforming it into information and processing it so that it can provide value. The result is a higher standard of sustainability, resource optimization and consumer safety."says Emidio Zorzella, CEO of Antares Vision Group.

Through technology, supply chain transparency and full control of the product life cycle can be guaranteed, for a higher standard of safety and efficiency for brands, the contract manufacturing industry and end consumers. The concept of Trustparency, invented by Antares Vision, enables the establishment of trust through product transparency, supply chain transparency and information sharing. Guaranteeing the origin and quality of ingredients and raw materials, the history of a product at each stage of production, supply chain information, as well as protecting authenticity become an important part of a brand's reputation and its relationship with the end consumer. Antares Vision now offers a single, integrated and scalable solution to ensure quality, transparency and sustainability.

Economic crisis: is there a cosmetic exception?

site-industries-cosmetiques Keywords: make-up brushes, white surface.

The 3rd Cosmed-SVP report on economic and strategic intelligence for companies in the cosmetics industry has been published.

In 2020, at national level, business failures in France fell by 38.1 1TP6Q, reaching their lowest level in 30 years. Several factors explain these figures. First of all, the aid measures put in place to support entrepreneurs. Secondly, creditor summonses, which traditionally account for 30 % of liquidations, have disappeared. Frozen until the summer due to regulatory changes, assignments did not resume at the end of the year, as public and private creditors were encouraged to seek out-of-court settlements. However, it is feared that the rise will resume in 2021, for three reasons: as a result of a catch-up, when aid ceases (hence the need to plan for a gradual phasing-out of aid) and when creditors start assigning again.

However, the cosmetics industry is proving all the alarmist forecasts wrong. Government measures (PGE, short-time working, etc.) have greatly reduced the difficulties, and the claims rate is very low. The morale of managers in the cosmetics industry's VSEs, SMEs and SMBs is very good (77 to 82 1Q6T), up three points on the previous quarter. This is in stark contrast to other industrial sectors, where the majority of SME managers (53 %) are still worried about their company's long-term viability.

The cosmetics industry is once again proving its resilience. It is mobilizing the resources of the stimulus plan primarily for investment, particularly in the ecological transition.

The new Cosmed-SVP quarterly report summarizes key information on the life of companies in the cosmetics sector: trends, market figures, player news and market outlook.

This report is supplemented by key indicators for the cosmetics industry's VSE-SME-ETI. This summary presents the quarterly evolution of key figures relating to the life of companies in the cosmetics industry: investment, innovation, employment, economic outlook, management morale. The aim is to help professionals measure, over time, the economic impact of the general context.

Prad interprets the codes of Maison Lalique

site-industries-cosmetiques Prad interprets the codes of the Maison Lalique with a golden perfume bottle on a white background.

Maison Lalique entrusted Prad with the made-in-France decoration of two of the perfume bottles in its Noir Premier Collection (Or Intemporel & Illusion Captive), Amethyst Exquise, and the candle jars in the Voyage de Parfumeur range (La Nuit Nairobi-Kenya and Noir Premier-Plume Blanche).

These creations illustrate not only Prad's mastery of each of the glass decoration technologies, but also its ability to combine them to sublimate containers and produce the material and light effects so emblematic of the Lalique brand.

"Glass is a wonderful materialRené Lalique, 1925

The three perfume bottles are distinguished by their metallic shine, achieved through liquid metallization, Prad's flagship technology that provides a total or partial metallic appearance, numerous metallic nuances and infinite transparency and gradation possibilities. The process is carried out on a special dust-free line, using a perfectly controlled and environmentally-friendly process. Laser engraving adds relief and light effects. They are enhanced by hot stamping on the Amethyst Exquise and Illusion Captive bottles, and silk-screening on the Or Intemporel bottle.

Complexity is revealed in the regularity of the metallization, despite the flat or incised surfaces, and the precision of the laser cutting, which preserves the metallic violet, black and gold colors, notably for the iIllusion Captive bottle laser-engraved over its entire surface. In addition, screen-printed and/or hot-marked motifs are accurately registered.

For the candles, the jar of Noir Premier - Plume Blanche was metallized in bright gold before being screen-printed; the jar of La Nuit Nairobi-Kenya was metallized before being hot-stamped. The challenge was to perfectly protect the drinking cup and obtain a flawless silk-screen print on a truncated cone-shaped support, thanks to a digital registration process.

A cosmetic active created from rose stems

site-industries-cosmetiques Two roses blooming in the sun are to create a cosmetic active ingredient.

We know the rose used in perfumery, less the rose stem in cosmetics. As the Rose Festival is starting in Grasse, the start-up Nissactive announces that it has designed a cosmetic active ingredient entirely made from rose stems. A first with scientifically proven anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant and anti-aging benefits, for which a patent has just been filed. The result of a close collaboration with the Université Côte d'Azur (UCA), the company is making the most of a product that is usually destroyed. 

Scientifically proven benefits 

Not content with recruiting teams from the University's Foqual Master's program (Formulation, Analysis, Quality) and the Nice Institute of Chemistry (UMR CNRS), the start-up - headed by Xavier Fernandez, UCA's Vice President for Innovation and Research Development - makes a point of objectifying its results and publishing them in scientific journals. 

A new field for the circular economy 

Until now, rose stems were burned, thus generating CO2 in the atmosphere, or composted in the best case. They are now sources of value and will be used in anti-aging products, repairing fragile skin, lightening spots and protecting the skin from pollution. This is the principle of "upcycling". By finding value in discarded plants, Nissactive opens a new field for local producers.

Côte d'Azur start-up created in October 2017, Nissactive develops innovative all-natural cosmetic ingredients designed from raw materials of Mediterranean origin. Another way of conceiving cosmetics that contributes to the safeguarding of local biodiversity. True to its values, the entire design process minimizes its environmental impact. The result of the merger between UCA and the Verger-Dubois group, the multi-awarded start-up already has two other active ingredients: a powerful skin repairer, developed from the leaves of the Brignoles plum tree, and an anti-aging, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory ingredient from the truffle oak of Provence. A know-how exported all over the world.

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