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Xavier Gagey takes over from Tristan Farabet as CEO of Groupe Pochet

site-industries-cosmetiques Tristan Farabet's successor, Xavier Gagey, poses for a photo.

Xavier Gagey appointed Chief Executive Officer of Groupe Pochet and member of the Executive Boardfrom September 1, 2021. 

He will take over from Tristan Farabetsince 2014 to modernize the Group's organization, infrastructure and operating methods, and to place it at the forefront of competitive excellence in the service of customers and a strategy for a sustainable future. On the strength of the fundamental progress achieved, the Group's positioning on new 4.0 technologies, a strengthened team of talents, an enriched value proposition notably on the CSR dimension and well-oriented performances, the Group can now open a new sequence in its history and Tristan Farabet move on to new personal projects. 

A graduate of the Ecole Nationale Supérieure d'Electricité (SUPELEC) and with an MBA from EDHEC, Xavier joined the Pochet Group and its Executive Committee in 2018, as General Manager of the Flaconnage division, with a long and rich experience within the Arcelor-Mittal/APERAM Group, both in France and internationally. Over the past 3 years, together with the Flaconnage teams, he has led a marked improvement in the industrial performance of this historic Group division. 

Irène Gosset, Chairman and shareholder of Groupe Pochet, would like to join the Group's Supervisory Board and shareholders in "warmly thanking Tristan for his decisive action on behalf of the Group over the last 7 years, and for the significant progress he has made, which today enables us to look to the future with confidence and to open a new page in the Group's history with Xavier, whose proven talents will benefit all the Group's activities". We wish Tristan every success in his future endeavors. 

[review] Product testing reinvents itself

site-industries-cosmetiques A magazine page with a photo of a product in a store.

The need for sustainable design, health requirements, digital integration, regulations... In just a few months, a combination of major factors has accelerated the redefinition of product testing in-store or at home. Across all beauty segments, brands, distributors and suppliers are working to reinvent the discovery experience, while responding to changing consumer expectations.

This is the theme of the June 2021 issue of the magazine Industries Cosmétiques. To find out more, and to understand how these issues are being taken on board by manufacturers today, we asked journalist Kristel Milet to tell us how she came up with her article... Listen to it immediately on the podcast. Cosmetalks or to read with the review n°30.

Givaudan Active Beauty unveils Zanthalene, an active ingredient that mimics the properties of botox

site-industries-cosmetiques A plate with a variety of dishes.

Givaudan Active Beauty presents Zanthalene, a natural modulable active ingredient developed by green fractionation, with botox-like efficacy in modulating skin sensitivity. Created from Zanthoxylum bungeanumZanthalene, commonly known as Sichuan pepper, is a cosmetic ingredient derived from the spice and capable of acting on neuromuscular communication within the skin structure, offering aging effects and soothing benefits depending on its concentration in formulas.

All consumers eventually experience the effects of aging on the skin, such as wrinkles and sensitivity. However, many do not wish to reverse these effects through invasive treatments. 

According to a study conducted on behalf of Givaudan Active Beauty186 % of consumers are interested in beauty products containing natural ingredients that help soothe skin discomfort while smoothing it out for a botox-like effect.

Giada Maramaldi, category manager for personal care at Givaudan, said: " Each facial expression activates a large number of muscles. Over time, as collagen production declines, these expressions become even more pronounced and embedded in the skin, leading to the formation of wrinkles. To combat these effects, Zanthalene offers a neurocosmetic strategy that relaxes facial muscles in a safe, reversible and natural way, adding a feeling of comfort while eliminating skin discomfort."

Made from Sichuan pepper, a plant widely used as a spice in Asian cuisine, Zanthalene is extracted from its fruit husks using supercritical CO2. Givaudan Active Beauty claims that its efficacy has been proven in several clinical studies: at low doses (0.5 %), Zanthalene is able to reduce skin discomforts such as itching and sensitivity, bringing a soothing effect to the skin in just a few minutes.

At a higher dosage (1 %), Zanthalene shows an immediate, visible reduction in skin roughness parameters in just 30 minutes, and long-term efficacy over 30 days. The body continues to react even after regular use of the product, creating a virtuous circle of improvement.

According to Givaudan Active Beauty, zanthalene is therefore a perfect ingredient for the formulation of beauty products targeting tired skin, aiming for a refreshed appearance and an immediately visible effect.

With over 80 % of consumers willing to buy a concept formulated with botox-like active ingredients, the brand's experts came up with an inspiring marketing concept: Sensilift, a cream based on Zanthalene. Thanks to Vetivyne, Centerox and rose seed oil, which regenerate and plump the skin, this highly natural anti-aging cream is also enriched with Jambu, which energizes the skin and provides a stimulating, moisturizing, comforting and soothing effect.

1 Zanthalene, Global online survey - Givaudan Active Beauty - May 2021

[review] When cosmetics integrate hormonal variations

site-industries-cosmetiques A magazine with a photo of a woman in a bikini.

Cosmetics and hormonal variations. It's a subject that doesn't come up all that often, yet it's one that affects cosmetics consumers. Menstruation, pregnancy, menopause: hormones have an influence on skin quality. Cosmetics manufacturers are beginning to incorporate this into their products. This is the Zoom of June issue of Industries Cosmétiques.

And to fully grasp what's at stake in this article, we asked journalist Kristel Milet to explain how she went about it. Listen to the podcast Cosmetalks and to read with your review n°30.

Cannabis and cannabinoids technical day: feedback and call for ideas

site-industries-cosmetiques A table displaying a bottle of cbd oil and a cbd plant at the Cannabis and Cannabinoids Technical Day.

More than 120 participants gathered on July 1, 2021 to attend the 2e technical day of the year, organized by the Innov'Alliance cluster and devoted to hemp and cannabinoids. At the Palais des papes in Avignon, a succession of experts and interprofessions discussed this highly topical, high-stakes subject.

Marion Pillot and Marion Segui, the cluster's project managers, opened the day's proceedings by outlining the main themes of the event. Frédéric Favrot, Managing Director of Koppert France, then pointed out that "the Innov'Alliance cluster had a duty to take the lead in this area.

A varied lecture series

Sponsored by Koppert France, Ledeven, Richel Group, Robertet Group, Vegetal Grox Development and our distribution partners ABC Chanvre and Cosmed, the day was organized around four main themes.

The morning session focused on "Varietal selection" and "Hemp and Cannabis production". The afternoon focused on "Extraction of molecules of interest and scientific rationalization of mechanisms of action" and "Application: challenges and development of innovative products".

A call for hemp project ideas

Echoing the enthusiasm generated by this technical day, Innov'Alliance is launching a call for project ideas around hemp, for which the cluster is inviting all interested parties to come forward before September 30, 2021.

The aim is to encourage the emergence of innovative projects based on hemp and cannabinoids across the entire value chain, from raw materials to finished products, in the agricultural, cosmetics, nutraceutical and food sectors. The aim is to encourage initiatives that promote sustainable innovation in the targeted sectors, and help develop a new range of ingredients, finished products, technologies and services in response to consumer expectations.

"Cannabidiol (CBD), hemp's flagship molecule, is gaining increasing interest among the French population for its many properties. Despite the legislative grey areas that remain in this sector, the development of cosmetics, food, nutraceuticals and wellness products containing CBD or its derivatives is today an area of innovation with high stakes (production, efficacy, analysis, quality monitoring, traceability, etc.)", says Innov'Alliance.

According to the Union des Industriels pour la valorisation des extraits de chanvre (UIVEC), the market for hemp extracts in France is estimated to be worth 700 million euros in the first year in the event of regulatory changes concerning CBD-containing products.

Find out more about the call for ideas :
https://pole-innovalliance.com/categorie-fr/actualites/projets/appel-a-idees-de-projets-autour-du-chanvre-faites-nous-part-de-vos-innovations

The theme of Innov'Alliance's next day of conferences is: "Food preservation & cosmetics: similarities and levers for improvement". Join us on September 30 in Lyon! Although the two sectors have neither the same challenges nor the same products, they are currently working in parallel to improve preservation, and could be a source of inspiration for each other. The objectives of this day will be to identify the various challenges and solutions for improving preservation, and to enable the transfer of technologies and skills between the food and cosmetics sectors.

Find out more about the next day of conferences:
https://pole-innovalliance.com/events/journee-conservation

VPI signs the connected spray cap for Paco Rabanne's Phantom perfume for men

site-industries-cosmetiques A chrome robot perfume bottle with black lid, designed by VPI for Paco Rabanne's Phantom men's fragrance.

In 2021, with Phantom, Paco Rabanne goes even further to seduce a highly connected generation, revealing a stunning bottle.

PHANTOM, the very first connected and refill perfume

A major partner to the perfume industry, VPI (Faiveley Plast Beauty) is renowned for its packaging expertise.
For its latest men's fragrance, Paco Rabanne worked closely with VPI. The French company, which specializes in the injection and assembly of aesthetic plastic parts, produced the brand's spray cap, the first connected fragrance to shake up conventional practices with a surreal robot design.

A challenge for a surprising creation

VPI takes the world by surprise with its ultra-fun connected spray cap, designed to create unprecedented customer experiences. The interaction between Paco Rabanne, VPI and STMicroelectronics in the development of this atypical fragrance has enabled us to achieve the level of precision and perfection set by the brand.
This spray cap combines an attractive metallic finish with the integration of an NFC (contactless communication) microchip in the robot head, all in a 3-piece footprint for the 100ml and 150ml bottle caps. 

For addicts, Phantom's 150 ml format is both spectacular and refillable. "says the brand. VPI and PUIG have designed a refillable system with sensory unscrewing and reassembly, guaranteeing perfect solidity and product life.

By bringing your smartphone close to the top of the bottle, you can freely discover the whole Phantom universe (games, playlists...) A welcome spray in the "Paco Galaxy" that becomes your everyday companion.
With this emblematic, high-profile launch, VPI is breaking new ground with the very first integration of a microchip in a fragrance, for an even more creative digital dimension combined with refillability. 
VPI and the Faiveley Plast Group are fully pursuing their strategy of supporting brands in their ecological and digital transition.

Pure Trade manufactured the wooden box for the "Rouge d'Armani Matte" lipstick collection.

site-industries-cosmetiques Pure Trade made the lipstick set.

For 25 years, Pure Trade has been designing high-end packaging, luggage and accessories for prestigious international beauty and cosmetics brands.

The company materialized the creation of the Armani brand and proposed a complete solution for this collector's display box, complete with protective pouch and packaging, as well as a suitable carrying bag.

The box has received 12 coats of lacquer and is adorned with gold Armani letters, which seem to melt into the surface in a harmonious metallic sheen.

It contains a removable wedge for displaying lipstick tubes in the brand's 24 shades. A gilded metal clasp ensures locking.

This highly selective production has been the subject of precise technical development for a product destined for a second life as a dressing table with a diameter of 41 cm.

Cold stamping by Wauters

site-industries-cosmetics A man holds a book with cold stamping by Wauters.

"Goldsmiths of packaging"... since 1909, gilding has been at the heart of Wauters' history. Today, this signature is expressed through a new investment and new technical and innovative know-how, opening up new perspectives in packaging.

From gold leaf to industrial innovation

Originally, Charles Wauters set up a leather gilding workshop in the Marais district of Paris: bookbinding, book covers, leather desk blotters... Charles Wauters invented his own tools, developed Fixor (for gluing gold leaf, a product still marketed by Rougier & Plé), and developed equipment at the root of today's gilding profession.

An expert in gilding, Wauters transposes and sharpens its know-how from leather to cardboard, to collaborate today with the biggest names in Perfumery, Cosmetics and Spirits on high value-added packaging.

Year after year, the company equips itself with the most precise and specific technologies, such as cylinder hot stamping combined with an embossing unit, with a machine unique in the world developed in partnership with Steuer, which enables unparalleled precision on large hot stamping areas combined with an embossing unit.

As a natural extension of this, Wauters is now developing its cold stamping offer. Cutting-edge offset... for cold gilding

Last year, Eric and Thierry Wauters (4th generation of the company) decided to invest in a new offset press for the B.Pack site in Burgundy.

This year, the Villebon-sur-Yvette site will be equipped with Heidelberg's brand-new CX 104 press, unveiled exclusively at the China Print trade show. Wauters will be the first to benefit from this new-generation offset press, which is both more efficient and more ergonomic, with its unique, intuitive console that enables even larger printing formats with a sheet size of 720 x1040 mm.

At present, this equipment is complemented by Vinfoil's Optima cold stamping (or cold lamination) module. A new stage in the company's "gilding" know-how is developing in line with Wauters' exacting standards, and towards a technicality with multiple possibilities.

Cold marking, a simplified process

While cold stamping is not intended to replace hot stamping, it is an alternative and complementary process that offers three major advantages: performance, ecology and design.

The gilding is transferred directly to the offset press.

Unlike hot foil stamping, which requires the use of a gilding iron tool, cold foil stamping is transferred via an offset plate to the substrate using glue. No need for a tool, no need to set up the substrate on a new machine - everything happens in-line on the new offset.

Cold stamping enables reprinting on the gilding film. A juice, a gradient, a four-color process, a direct-tone decoration - the design is set free. There's no need for a covering white for texts or decorations: we work in reserve, directly on the cardboard.

The technical nature of cold stamping guarantees precision, agility, flexibility and cadence... 

High-quality rendering

Overlays are made easy thanks to 100th register quality: no need to set up the board on another machine, cold lamination is carried out directly on the offset machine. Precision is the order of the day. From solids to fine fades, gradations are sublimated thanks to unrivalled stitch finesse.

Gone are the days of covering white in several passes to regain purity; the cold foil reserve can be imagined as a solid, for example, to make way for four-color process printing on the back of a pack, or with incredible finesse for text, labels or gencodes.

A CSR process

The advantages of this technology include its ecological virtues: it saves time, materials and energy. Thanks to its highly precise application, the cold stamping process reduces waste. The used film reels are then taken back by the supplier who, after a demetallization process, recycles the PET by remetallizing it for a second life. The production of gilding tools is no longer necessary, saving both materials and energy.

Performance, ecology, design: cold stamping opens up new horizons for the world of high-end packaging.

Procos signs a 100 % single material e-commerce box

site-industries-cosmetiques A yellow box with a photo of sunglasses.

Procos, German manufacturer of packaging for leading luxury brands, unveils a "Summer" version of its Yoga Light box. The "Summer 2021" e-commerce box is made from 100 single-material %. It is inspired by the pantone color of the year, "illuminating yellow".

"Digital communication is becoming increasingly important. With this in mind, this packaging includes a QR code to our new website, giving you the opportunity to discover or rediscover Procos".explains Stéphanie Havard, Director of Operations at Procos.

Procos will present this revamped version at back-to-school trade shows. First at Édition Spéciale by Luxe Pack, on August 31 & September 1, 2021 at the Carreau du Temple in Paris (Stand B05), then at Luxe Pack Monaco on September 27, 28 & 29, 2021 (Stand DF01/DF03).

[podcast] Stoelzle Masnières Parfumerie modernizes and diversifies

An investment of €20 million has enabled the Masnières site (59) to modernize and diversify. New furnace, new hybrid line, new automatic equipment, everything pushes the glassmaker to go further, faster. Perfumery and cosmetics are still a major part of the plant, but spirits are making their entrance.

Explanations by Etienne Gruyez, CEO of Stoelzle Masnières Parfumerie. Listen to the podcast below and read the interview in the magazine Industries Cosmétiques June 2021.

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