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Spike Valentino: a lipstick case designed by Pure Trade

PURE TRADE - valentino spike clutch closed

Valentino drew on Pure Trade's multi-material expertise to design an exceptional square-shaped case to house three lipsticks from the Spike Valentino collection. 

Designed in gold-plated aluminum, the base and lid of the case each feature a removable cardboard wedge coated in black rPET.

An elegant black silk-screened cardboard case, embossed and signed with the logo, protects this timeless minaudière.

Valentino had already entrusted Pure Trade with the design of a lipstick case: red recycled cotton exterior highlighted by a gold zip, with EVA foam inner wedge, covered in r-PET microfiber. Embossed tone-on-tone logo.

Marie-Andrée Gamache, General Manager, Pierre Fabre Medical Care

MA Gamache @Laboratoires Pierre Fabre

Marie-Andrée Gamache has been appointed General Manager of Pierre Fabre Laboratories' Medical Care Division. In this capacity, she joins the Pierre Fabre Laboratories Management Committee and reports to Eric Ducournau, Group CEO.

Canadian-born Marie-Andrée Gamache has been working in the pharmaceutical industry for over 25 years. She has held a variety of management positions at national, regional and global level, in Europe, North America, Asia, the Middle East and Africa. She has extensive experience in management and P&L positions, with expertise ranging from pipeline to commercialization.

Prior to joining Pierre Fabre Laboratories, Marie-Andrée was CEO of Novartis for the UK and Ireland. Prior to that, she joined Novartis in 2019 as Head of Oncology for the Middle East and Africa, after spending four years at Merck KGAA as General Manager in Belgium and Sub-Saharan Africa.

In 2024, Pierre Fabre Laboratories' Medical Care business achieved sales of 1.3 billion euros, divided between oncology (39 %), dermatology (15 %), chronic diseases (26 %) and family health (13 %). Marie-Andrée's main priorities will be to maintain the momentum of the oncology portfolio, via new indications and territories, to optimize sales and profitability of the rest of the Medical Care portfolio, and to prepare for the next decade by overseeing the development of the R&D pipeline in precision oncology, medical dermatology and rare diseases.

"We are delighted to welcome Marie-Andrée, whose international experience and expertise, particularly in oncology, will undoubtedly drive our Medical Care business forward. Throughout her career, Marie-Andrée has demonstrated an exceptional commitment to patient-centeredness, medical innovation, execution excellence and team cohesion. We look forward to realizing new projects together.said Eric Ducournau, CEO of Pierre Fabre Laboratories.

"I'm delighted to be joining Pierre Fabre Laboratories and its Medical Care teams, who have achieved so much over the past 5 years. I love creating the right environment to accelerate medical innovation and improve access to medicines for patients around the world. The raison d'être of Pierre Fabre Laboratories, which is to take care of everyone in order to make the world a better place, resonates deeply with my values. I look forward to taking Pierre Fabre Medical Care to the next level, said Marie-Andrée Gamache.

Suncare products: a new rheology modifier

Clariant

Clariant, a global specialty chemicals company, has unveiled Aristoflex Sun, its new rheology modifier for sunscreens.

Aristoflex Sun (Inci: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer (and) Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate) has been developed for sun protection products and daily UV protection. It stabilizes UV filters while enabling light, fresh textures, according to Clariant.

This new rheology modifier meets the growing demand for lighter textures in daily SPF products. Its launch is in line with the growing trend for "light" textures in daily SPF products. Skinification of sun care "(or daily sun care), where SPF is increasingly integrated into everyday cosmetic products, reflecting consumer demand for multifunctional skincare solutions that combine UV protection with various skincare benefits.

"With the growing trend towards multifunctional skincare products, Aristoflex Sun helps formulators elevate suncare solutions with superior stability, SPF performance and sensory appeal, says Sophia Kim, Global Marketing Manager Skin Care at Clariant. As experts in rheology modifier technology, we provide solutions that meet the market's needs for high-performance protective products."

Aristoflex Sun, cold processable, offers formulators the convenience of a pre-neutralized polymer that excels at thickening and texturing while guaranteeing optimal UV filter stability.

Lallemand Health Solutions named finalist for 'Ingredient of the year' award

site-industries-cosmetiques A long-haired woman smiles outdoors. Text: "Holistic beauty study with Cerebiome® for skin", with icons, a Draft banner and "Nutra Ingredients Awards 2025 Finalist". The Lallemand Health Solutions logo is visible.

Lallemand Health Solutions is proud to announce that it has been shortlisted for the 2025 NutraIngredients Awards in two of the 16 categories.

Cerebiome® For Skin by Lallemand Health Solutions has been pre-selected for the Ingredient of the Year in the Beauty from Within category.

A recently published dermatologist-supervised open-label clinical study investigated the effects of Cerebiome® on 35 healthy Caucasian women aged 30-45 over an 8-week period. Participants took 3 billion CFU of Cerebiome® once daily [Kassem et al., 2025]. This study used validated questionnaires and prevailing biometric instruments in the cosmetic industry. The results showed significant reductions in perceived stress, benefits for sleep, and improvements in skin appearance, including enhanced skin hydration, reduced wrinkles and fine lines, improved skin tone, and increased skin firmness and elasticity.

Élodie Aragon, Product Manager at Lallemand Health Solutions, adds: "We are proud that our ingredient has been chosen as one of the three finalists for Ingredient of the Year in the Beauty from Within category. Our latest study opens possibilities for the creation of new products focused on skin health, as well as dietary supplement solutions for cosmetic brands looking to launch beauty-from-within skin care routines. Cerebiome® is already a well-known, easy-to-formulate psychobiotic in the supplement market, with many commercial successes worldwide. With this innovative, one-of-a-kind proof-of-concept study, we offer opportunities for our customers to have solutions for the booming nutricosmetics market."

This new study enables brands to make beauty claims such as "Helps soften the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines," "By maintaining/improving hydration/elasticity: Cerebiome contributes to the maintenance/improvement of skin appearance, such as wrinkles and fine linesand "Cerebiome helps reduce/minimize the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines by maintaining hydration."With an already launched product in holistic beauty, Lallemand Health Solutions has numerous products in development worldwide, which are signs of trust and success.

Cerebiome® has also been pre-selected for the Ingredient of the Year in the Mind and Mood category.

As a pioneer psychobiotic, Cerebiome® is the first probiotic with specific approved health claims on mood and stress. Backed by strong science, Cerebiome® has newly demonstrated benefits not only on occasional stress but also on stress-related disturbances, such as sleep quality. These groundbreaking discoveries are not only innovative but also perfectly aligned with the evolving needs of consumers, who are now looking for improvements in sleep health, beyond mental well-being (FMCG Gurus survey, 2024).

Karine Lasfargue, Product Manager at Lallemand Health Solutions, details: "Now, consumers easily understand that mental health may regulate other concerns. By targeting the microbiota-gut-brain axis, Cerebiome® promotes a healthy mood balance, reducing occasional stress, improving gut comfort, but also bringing beneficial effects on sleep quality. The introduction of sleep-enhancing psychobiotics marks a groundbreaking innovation in the current market landscape. Compatible with numerous added-value ingredients, Cerebiome® opens plenty of opportunities for brands to develop unique supplement solutions to meet consumer demands, while also complying with regulatory requirements depending on the country. We are looking forward to being part of the ceremony and wish the best of luck to all the finalists."

The award winners will be celebrated at the industry's party of the year on Wednesday, May 21st2025, during Vitafoods. Come and meet the team at Vitafoods Barcelona at booth #4C26 to discuss how you can launch innovative and impactful health solutions in your market.

site-industries-cosmetiques Promotional visual for the NutraIngredients Awards 2025, featuring Lallemand Health Solutions. Text: "We are proud to be finalists for the Ingredient of the Year Award". An oval bowl containing capsules and green herbs is shown. Event date: May 21, Barcelona. #Nlawards25.

About the 2025 NutraIngredients Awards
Owned and organized by NutraIngredients.comone of the key news sources for the functional food and beverage and dietary supplement industries, the NutraIngredients Awards honor the best and brightest in ingredients, finished products, companies, individuals, and initiatives, with 16 categories to enter this year!

About Cerebiome® - A Game-Changing Psychobiotic
Cerebiome® is the most documented psychobiotic in the world. It combines two unique strains with complementary effects: Lactobacillus helveticus Rosell®-52 and Bifidobacterium longum Rosell®-175, at a concentration of 3 billion CFU per day, offering particularly good shelf-life stability even at room temperature. Developed by the Rosell® Institute for Microbiome and Probiotics by Lallemand, Cerebiome® has a legacy in mental health since 1929. It has undergone extensive research, including 10 clinical studies on stress and mental well-being, and 11 preclinical studies revealing 8 distinct modes of action on the microbiome-gut-brain axis. Notably, Cerebiome® was the first psychobiotic with validated health claims in Canada and Brazil, demonstrating its positive effects on mental health and overall well-being.

About Lallemand Health Solutions
With 90 years of expertise, Lallemand Health Solutions is a global leader in the probiotic industry, specializing in the development, production, and marketing of bacteria- and yeast-based probiotic supplements for human health.

TechnicoFlor launches eco-designed fragrance collection

TechnicoFlor E.N.R.G.Y.

TechnicoFlor, a French, family-owned and independent perfume house, has set up several initiatives to move towards a more responsible and transparent perfumery. The company is pursuing this approach.

In 2024, it announced FlorAnthropy, a philanthropic program designed to bring together and provide a better framework for its protection, support, mutual aid and patronage initiatives - in France and internationally - that work in the fields of the environment, art, culture, education and societal causes.

At this year's in-Cosmetics Global (Amsterdam, April 8-10, 2025), TechnicoFlor launched a new collection of seven eco-socio-designed fragrances. This collection, named "E.N.R.G.Y.", was formulated with Flor-Index, the company's eco-design tool, which assesses the environmental and societal impact of fragrance formulas.

Designed for skin on the move, it combines durability and sensoriality for "100 % feel good active beauty routine. From an energizing shot in the shower, to a scented body treatment, to a cocooning moment by the light of a scented candle, it's a complete ritual for taking care of yourself, in tune with the hectic pace of everyday life".says TechnicoFlor.

The collection includes :

  • Pepper Crush exfoliating shower gel: an invigorating shot in which chilli, bell pepper and red berries merge with upcycled turmeric to awaken body and mind.
  • Glow Up fresh face mist: a blend of ginger infusion and colorful citrus fruits for an instant burst of freshness and a glowy complexion.
  • Matcha Ritual body lotion: a nourishing milk in which matcha latte blends with fresh notes of thyme sublimated by an aromatic facet and chamomile for well-deserved soothing.
  • Rice Bloom deodorant: freshness and softness combine with firm rice and cotton for effective, lightweight protection.
  • Joy Fizz body mist: a colorful, fruity whirlwind of passion, mango and kiwano, offering an explosion of vitality for a joyful, energizing scent all day long.
  • Brocco Elixir hair serum: a plant-based alchemy of broccoli and fig leaves with an aromatic heart, to strengthen and repair hair.
  • The Moccha Break scented candle combines sandalwood with subtle notes of coffee, chocolate and caramel.

PrimalHyal UltraReverse to protect skin from aging and external aggressors 

Givaudan-Active-Beauty_PrimalHyal-UltraReverse

The smallest and longest-lasting intracellular hyaluronic acid ever developed, according to Givaudan, PrimalHyal UltraReverse has the ability to penetrate skin cells and act at DNA level, tackling most of the key features of aging at its root.

This new active ingredient aims to redefine the "aging well" experience, targeting four of the five main characteristics of aging:

  • Epigenetic control - restoration of DNA methylation processes and enhancement of Sirtuin expression and activity, limiting cryptic transcription.
  •  Genomic instability - amplification of DNA repair mechanisms for healthier skin.
  • Telomere attrition - reactivation of telomerase expression and activity, protecting chromosome integrity.
  • Loss of proteostasis - stimulating proteasome activity to ensure optimal cellular function.

By targeting these biological pathways, PrimalHyal UltraReverse protects skin not only from chronological aging, but also from environmental stressors (exposome). According to Givaudan, it increases sirtuin 1 by +136% and improves collagen 1 production by +48%, helping to restore skin's youthfulness. 

The result? Younger, healthier-looking skin, whose apparent age can be reduced by up to six years, according to the Swiss firm. It also corrects the main signs of aging, including wrinkles and sleep lines, while improving skin firmness, as demonstrated by a diverse, international panel of volunteers.

"Drawing on the expertise of PrimalHyal 50 Life, the strain engineering experts at Alderys have designed PrimalHyal UltraReverse, an ultra-low molecular weight hyaluronic acid of less than 3 kDa that unleashes new biological benefits. Produced by precision fermentation, its impact on the environment is drastically reduced - setting a new benchmark for sustainable, high-performance skincare."explains Romain Reynaud, Research & Development Manager.

"Longevity has become a key trend in the beauty industry, driven by growing consumer interest in prevention and a holistic approach to skin health. In fact, 84 % of people agree that they should embrace their age rather than trying to hide it, underlining the move towards a more authentic perspective on aging. Givaudan Active Beauty emphasizes that true skincare is not just about appearance, but about longevity, prevention and well-being, offering solutions that preserve the skin's health capital."comments Mathias Fleury, Category Manager - Active Ingredients.

IBG Lab, a subsidiary of the IBG Group, acquires a stake in Doucea

Doucéa

Innovative Beauty Group (IBG), a global provider of turnkey cosmetics solutions, is now supporting the French dermo-pediatric skincare brand Doucéa via its IBG Lab incubator.

Launched in 2021 to meet the special skin needs of children and toddlers, Doucéa primarily targets pharmacies and parapharmacies, but also pediatricians and dermatologists, with products dedicated to atopic and sensitive skin.

Established in France and China, the brand plans to expand in Europe, the Middle East and Asia with the active support of IBG Lab.

Following the observation that compliance (follow-up and re-use) with treatments for atopic skin in children was low, due to 

Products are often sticky and unpleasant to use, with austere, over-medicalized designs and complicated handling: compliance (follow-up and re-use) with treatments for atopic skin in children is poor. 

With this in mind, Natacha Tarascon, founder of Doucéa, has designed a range of products better adapted to the needs and daily lives of families. The formulation, concentration and presentation are entirely designed to suit children and toddlers.

A dermatological skincare product with eco-responsible packaging

The skin of babies and children is thinner, produces less sebum and is more permeable, making it more sensitive to external aggressions and environmental factors. What's more, children's immune systems are still immature, so their skin is less able to defend itself against bacteria, viruses and other pathogens. As a result, children's skin can develop rashes, dryness and dermatitis/eczema.

The fruit of several months of R&D, Doucéa products combine ingredients such as Tiger grass (Centella asiatica or Gotu Kola), recognized for its anti-inflammatory and healing benefits for atopic dermatitis, with pro/prebiotics that protect the skin barrier.

Fun, practical packaging ensures optimum use. To achieve this, the brand organized workshops with over 400 children, to understand their needs and desires.

In 2024, Doutopia cream was a finalist in the Mamadvisor Awards 2024, a recognition awarded by MagicMaman, the leading media for parents.

In February 2025, after a packaging redesign and range extension, the brand has just been successfully relaunched in China on the three main social networks.

Established in France and China, it plans to expand in Europe, the Middle East and Asia with the active support of IBG Lab.

"After a successful initial marketing phase, particularly in the Asian market, where there is strong demand for quality pediatric care products, I'm delighted to be joining IBG Lab, which is well equipped to help us take our development to the next level. Less alone and well supported, we'll go further.underlines Natacha Tarascon, whose young structure currently has five employees and a network of ten freelancers spread between France and China.

"I'm delighted to support this young, innovative brand, which strengthens our presence in the paediatric sector, where the IBG Group has had little presence. The expertise of its director, Natacha Tarascon, the quality of Doucéa's all-natural, dermocontrolled formulations, and its positioning in a fast-growing market, in view of dietary trends and environmental pollution, are all ingredients that augur well for growth, not only in France, via the network of parapharmacies and healthcare professionals, but also in Asia and the United States, where IBG is well established".explains IBG CEO Xavier Leclerc de Hauteclocque.

Photo taken from the Doucéa.

Liftilience, Silab's multi-purpose phytotensor, wins an Icic Award

SILAB_ICIC Award

Silab received an award at the International Cosmetics Innovation Conference (Icic) for its Liftilience active ingredient, a multi-purpose tensor extracted from chestnuts.

On Thursday, April 24, 2025, in Shanghai, Silab won the Icic Award in the category Technology Innovative Ingredient Benchmark for its natural film-forming active ingredient Liftilience.

To develop this active ingredient, the SME drew on its mastery of natural ingredients and its expertise in polysaccharide biopolymerization. The company has perfected a unique technology, FHB technology, to obtain functionalized helical biopolymers from chestnut polysaccharides. 

Combining controlled hydrolysis and ionic functionalization, this technology gives Liftilience an optimized tensing effect and adhesion properties scientifically demonstrated by Silab.

"We've been developing natural tighteners for over 35 years. Our strength lies in our ability to combine each generation of phytotensives with a new, increasingly sophisticated technology. The polymerization of plant proteins, the purification of natural polyoses and the biopolymerization of sugars were at the origin of our first tensors. In 2016, we perfected IBPN technology, an interpenetrating network of two biopolymers creating a tight, dense mesh, for the development of Filmexel. Today, Liftilience represents our 6th generation of phytotensives, based on FHB Technology. We are delighted to receive this award, which highlights our long-standing expertise in this field.comments Brigitte Closs-Gonthier, Chairman of the Board and General Manager in charge of R&D, quality and communications at Silab.

Acting as a beauty enhancer and make-up perfector, Liftilience offers, according to SIlab, multiple cosmetic benefits for face and body, with immediate and long-lasting effects. 

Antoine Lie tests Nexdot's UVltimate varnish 

Nexdot

UV rays degrade fragrances contained in transparent bottles: ingredients that are colored may fade and lose coloration (photosensitivity), or a chemical reaction may increase the coloration already present. Light can also alter fragrance.

Perfumers add chemical filters to their formulas to slow down this degradation, but sometimes to the detriment of the perfume's initial balance.

With UVltimate, a UV filtration varnish applied to the bottle to protect olfactory notes, Nexdot aims to change the game.

The company recently called on Antoine Lie, master perfumer at Atelier Français des Matières and one of the world's leading noses (Giorgio Armani, Azzaro, Burberry, Cerruti, Comme Des Garçons, Tom Ford, Givenchy, Kenzo, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Nina Ricci, Versace and Zegna...), to evaluate in real-life conditions the protection offered by UVltimate on the fragrance pyramid.

site-industries-cosmetiques A middle-aged man with gray hair and a beard sits inside, wearing a dark sweater and a watch, hands clasped, looking at the lens. On the round table in the background is a small metal sculpture labeled "Brouillon auto".

Antoine Lie analyzed five fragrances after 4, 12 and 24 hours of exposure to light, in three configurations: without protection (raw formula), with integrated chemical UV filters (traditional solution) and without additives, but with a UVltimate-treated bottle.

"On all types of perfume studied with Nexdot technology, we can conclude that their structures are less subject to loss of freshness and deterioration of note following the tests carried out. In comparison, the same perfumes containing chemical anti-UV agents suffer a far greater loss of freshness and olfactory deterioration, and in the best case, are equivalent to the samples studied with Nexdot technology. It's interesting to note that the more the fragrance structure is based on freshness and transparency, the better Nexdot technology performs compared to conventional chemical anti-UV agents.he concluded. The advantage of the Nexdot innovation is that the technology is located outside the perfume, on the bottle, so it doesn't affect it in any way. From a regulatory point of view, we know that all these additives that are added to perfume are under the microscope of the European Commission, which is beginning to think that they may be harmful to health. Nexdot technology is therefore a hopeful sign of things to come.

Developed from the properties of Quantum Dots (Nobel Prize in Chemistry 2023), UVltimate prevents the degradation of olfactory molecules and colors under the effect of UV light. According to Nexdot, laboratory studies have shown that its performance surpasses all existing solutions: 

  • Better protection against discoloration and fragrance degradation than traditional varnishes; 
  • This solution represents an effective alternative to chemical UV filters, with no impact on perfume formulation; 
  • Industrial application is simple, and compatible with current glassmaking processes. 

Invisible and non-toxic, the varnish respects the recycling of glass bottles. It thus offers a sustainable alternative, in line with perfume brands' commitment to responsible Clean Beauty. What's more, its industrial application is simplified, with no need to modify existing manufacturing processes.

In-Cosmetics Global 2025: eight winners

in-cosmetics Global Amsterdam Awards

The in-Cosmetics Global Amsterdam awards were announced on April 8. A jury of experts selected the best products from all those entered in eight categories.

The best ingredients of the Innovation Zone

In the Functional Ingredients category, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant won gold for Pickmulse, a natural emulsifier that redefines the sensory experience.

Galaxy Surfactants Ltd. received silver for its Galguard Prebiotive, a green 100 % antimicrobial preservative derived from bio-renewable sources.

The bronze award went to White Tiger Ground LLC for WTGPhLA Kimchi Filtrate Organic Preservative, an effective antimicrobial and disinfectant ingredient.

The Solabia group was awarded gold for the best ingredient in the innovation zone in the active ingredients category for Pro-Longevia. The R&D team was praised for its use of green biotechnology combined with strong scientific support.

Raw materials manufacturer Vytrus Biotech won the silver award for Clarivine with Fasting for skin longevity, an innovative 100 natural % active ingredient designed to enhance skin cell longevity and activate skin regeneration processes.

Mibelle Biochemistry won bronze for PhytoCellTec Exosomes, which increases exosome production by mesenchymal stem cells inside the skin.

Green Ingredient" products win awards

The Green Ingredient Award, in collaboration with Ecovia Intelligence, recognizes ingredients that have a significant environmental or social impact. This year's winner was Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant for Pickmulse.

AAK won silver for Lipex SheaLiquid TR, an environmentally-friendly shea-based liquid emollient of natural origin. 

Melicica, from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics by Clariant, was awarded the bronze medal for its holistic approach to optimizing the skin's natural repair process.

Kenvue Trusted Science Award

The Kenvue Trusted Science Award recognizes innovative and effective modern ingredients that consumers can rely on for their daily skin care. Croda won the title for Luceane, an ingredient that slows down the aging process by five years after just one month's application, resulting in reduced signs of skin fatigue and improved radiance.

Rising Star Award

The Rising Star Award rewards first-time exhibitors, highlighting their products and ingredients while recognizing their solution-oriented approaches. This year, biotech Evolved by Nature was recognized for its impressive presence at the show. 

Make-Up Bar and Sensory Bar Award

The Sensory Bar Award and the Make-up Bar Award highlight the new generation of color cosmetics, innovative technologies and developments in sensoriality, texture and fragrance.

As part of the Make-up Bar Award, PolymerExpert (Solabia group), won the title for OleoShine Green - The Future of Natural Radiance, which offers ultra-radiant shine and optimized adhesion. 

Daito Kasei Europe took silver for its sustainable, natural and transformative beauty, while JRS won bronze for its reconstitutable pearlescent serum tablets.

In the Sensory Bar Award category, cosmetics manufacturer Azelis Group NV took gold for its innovative Sensory Boost product. Chemyunion, a raw materials manufacturer that integrates nature and science, won silver for its innovation Be Your Beauty. Bronze went to Givaudan Active Beauty's S3D Reverso - The youth renewal complex.

Sustainable stand award

The Sustainable Stand Award went to Laboratoires Expanscience for their sustainable development credentials and their efforts to minimize carbon emissions.

"This year's winners have demonstrated an incredible commitment to advancing cosmetic science. We are extremely proud to celebrate these innovators in person and recognize their achievements in every category. Our celebrated judges were impressed by the quantity and remarkable quality of the entries."said Roziani Zulkifli, Director of in-cosmetics Global.

Photo taken from the in-Cosmetics Global Amsterdam website.

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