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Transparency, safety, and Green Sciences, L'Oréal unveils its vision of the beauty of the future

 L'Oréal, which has embarked on an in-depth transformation of its Research & Innovation organization by gearing its methods to the needs of its customers, is a key player in this field. Green Sciences (Biosciences), has set itself the target that 95% of its ingredients will be derived from renewable plant sources, abundant minerals or circular processes by 2030, and that 100% of its formulas will have no negative impact on the aquatic environment, in order to offer consumers products that are ever safer, more effective and more respectful of the environment. 
At a time when protecting the planet is an absolute imperative, and when the Covid-19 pandemic is reinforcing demand for products that are both good for health and safe for the environment, L'Oréal is opening a new chapter in its R&I by seeing respect for nature as a driving force for creating renewable alternatives to petroleum-based ingredients. In this way, the Group will draw on recent advances in Green Sciences (Biosciences), to sustainably cultivate ingredients and extract the best from nature through high-tech processes. By 2020, 80% of the Group's raw materials are already readily biodegradable, 59% are renewable, 34% are natural or of natural origin. 29% of the ingredients used in L'Oréal formulas have been developed according to the principles of Green Chemistry1. 

Nicolas Hieronimus, Executive Vice-President of L'Oréal, in charge of the Divisions, declares : "With Green Sciences, we begin a new chapter in L'Oréal Research, the driving force behind our company since its creation. Our ambition for 2030 is to offer women and men all over the world cosmetics that are ever more effective, safe and respectful of the environment". 

To achieve this transition, L'Oréal is mobilizing all the resources of Green Sciences: recent advances in agronomic knowledge, developments in biotechnologies, Green Chemistry, formulation science and modeling tools. The Group also relies on strategic partnerships with universities, start-ups and its own raw materials suppliers. 

Barbara Lavernos, Executive Vice President, Research, Innovation and Technology, highlights : "Thanks to Green Sciences, we're going to meet the ambitious scientific and technological challenge represented by this transition. And it is this virtuous approach based on the circular economy that will enable us to achieve new levels of performance and discover unprecedented cosmetic benefits, without compromising on quality or safety, in the service of beauty that respects our planet". 

Greater transparency to help consumers make responsible choices 

In response to consumers' legitimate and growing demand for transparency on ingredients and product composition, L'Oréal is further strengthening its approach and launching new initiatives to improve information and dialogue and enable everyone to make informed choices. 

  • L'Oréal is developing its transparency approach through its "At the heart of our products". Launched in March 2019, it answers questions from the general public about the ingredients used in formulas and the composition of its products. The platform, which references almost 1,000 ingredients, is now accessible in 45 countries, in 8 languages (FR/EN/CN/GER/SP/IT/RUS/PORT). This content, based on scientific advances, is gradually being deployed on the websites of the Group's major brands (L'Oréal Paris, Garnier, La Roche-Posay, Maybelline, Redken, Essie, Kérastase, Yves Saint Laurent...). 
  • At the same time, a system for displaying the environmental and social impact of cosmetic products, launched in June 2020 as part of the L'Oréal for the Future program, is being rolled out internationally with the Garnier brand and gradually across all Group brands. 
  • During March 2021, to address the general public directly, an awareness campaign on the At the heart of our products approach will be organized on social networks (Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, LinkedIn, YouTube...) in some twenty countries to enable consumers to exchange views with researchers. A pilot scheme, carried out in January 2021 in France, enabled us to reach out to Internet users and establish a highly fruitful dialogue with them. 

Greater safety for consumers and the environment 

Product safety and consideration of their potential impact on the environment are at the heart of L'Oréal's commitment. 
The group pioneered the development of alternative methods to animal testing, creating reconstructed skin models to assess product safety. As early as 1989, L'Oréal stopped testing its products on animals, 14 years before regulations prohibited it. The Group also mobilized to have these alternative methods recognized in China. Since 2014, the Chinese authorities have no longer tested locally produced non-functional cosmetics, and this progress is gradually being extended: since 2021, these same cosmetics imported into China no longer need to be tested on animals, subject to a certificate of compliance with good manufacturing practices. 

On the environmental front, L'Oréal continues to improve the environmental profile of its formulas. In 1995, it set up a research laboratory to measure and model the impact of its products on ecosystems (water and soil) and biodiversity. As part of its L'Oréal for the FutureBy 2030, the Group has set itself the target of 95% of its ingredients being bio-sourced, derived from abundant minerals or circular processes, and 100% of its formulas being assessed using its environmental testing platform, to guarantee their harmlessness on the diversity of coastal and freshwater aquatic ecosystems. 

ADF&PCD and PLD Digital Days on March 23, 25 and 30: registration is open

ADF&PCD and PLD have joined forces with Packaging Première and the prestigious Pentawards design competition to offer three "Digital Days".

The Digital Days are designed to create opportunities for designers, buyers and suppliers to meet, discover the latest trends and innovations from leading brands, and showcase the year's new packaging with the ADF&PCD and PLD Innovation Awards.

Registration is now open for the ADF&PCD and PLD Digital Days on March 23, 25 and 30.

The three Digital Days will be the first digital packaging events of the year, and aim to bring inspiration, networking and the latest innovations to the beauty, beverage, aerosol and dispensing markets. 

To register.

Pharmacosmetech postponed until September 2021

Health news and pandemic-related constraints have prompted the organizers of Pharmacosmetech, a trade show dedicated to services, equipment and processes for the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries, to postpone the event originally scheduled for June 2021.

Wishing to provide their exhibitors, visitors and partners with optimum business conditions, the show organizers have decided to postpone the 3rd edition - to be called Pharmatech Cosmetech - to September 14, 15 and 16.

Their goal: We want to "offer an innovative, high-performance 3rd edition, combining a cutting-edge industrial and technological offering with qualitative demand."

The 2nd edition of the show was held on September 15, 16 and 17, 2020 at the Parc des Expositions in Chartres.

Croda acquires Alban Muller, the natural active ingredients expert

Croda International Plc ("Croda"), which uses intelligent science to create high-performance ingredients and technologies to improve life (Smart science to improve lives) today announced the acquisition of Alban Muller International.

With annual revenues of €18 million for the year to June 30, 2020, Alban Muller is a leader in the creation and supply of botanical and natural ingredients for the global beauty industry. This acquisition expands Croda's portfolio of active ingredients for customers in the cosmetics sector.

Founded in France in 1978 and now employing 90 people, Alban Muller is renowned for its eco-responsible approach to developing innovative botanical extracts, natural formulation ingredients and organic cosmetics.

With its emphasis on locally sourced raw materials, it fits in perfectly with Croda's Beauty Actives business, represented by Sederma and Crodarom, companies also based in France.

This acquisition gives Croda access to some of the most innovative technologies on the botanicals market, including Zeodratation, an energy-efficient drying technology that preserves the most sensitive active ingredients.

With Alban Muller recognized as a market leader in sustainability, this acquisition will strengthen Croda's extensive portfolio of biobased ingredients and confirms its commitment to becoming the most sustainable supplier of innovative ingredients.

This transaction gives Croda's customers access to high-tech natural active ingredients, while enhancing Alban Muller's future growth through access to Croda's international sales network and formulation expertise. Maarten Heybroek, Croda Consumer Care President explains: " We have admired Alban Muller's CSR strategy and extensive know-how for many years, and are delighted to welcome the team to the Croda family. The acquisition of Alban Muller strengthens Croda's position as a world leader in natural and botanical actives, and helps us to meet the growing demand from customers for ingredients of natural origin to enhance the sustainability profile of their products. "

Mr Alban Muller adds: "I'm delighted to be handing over to Croda to further extend the eco-responsible approach I've been advocating for so many years. Croda is the ideal partner to increase the growth of natural products, strengthen our expertise and give us access to new markets. I'm sure that this association will stimulate future developments in natural ingredients that will be of great benefit to consumers." 

The transaction is subject to the usual pre-closing conditions and is expected to close by the end of the first quarter of 2021.

Visit our websites:
www.crodapersonalcare.com
pro.albanmuller.com

Very green hoods

From the outset, Coverpla, a turnkey perfumery specialist, has stood out for its injected surlyn caps without inserts. Today, the Nice-based company is diversifying its range of caps with the aim of being 100 % eco-responsible.

Since its first hood collections, Coverpla has been working with molds whose impressions allow the part to be clipped directly onto the pump cover. These covers, most of which are injected in surlyn, have thus become perfect candidates for recycling.

But to meet the demand for diversification, Coverpla and some of its partners have developed hoods in aluminum, zamac, wood or other resins, requiring the presence of an insert.

On the move

In line with its commitment to eco-design, Coverpla is looking into single-material hoods and removable inserts.

In particular, the company is taking advantage of innovations from its Spanish partner Pujolasos to expand its range with an exclusive hood model made from FSC wood with a compressed cork insert, or a PP part whose insert can be easily removed by the consumer for recycling.

Countdown to recyclability

Coverpla's forthcoming Too-Doo and Torrid wooden hoods will both feature a cork insert. Then, almost all the wood hoods in the catalog will have a cork insert.

Last but not least, Coverpla has developed a special mold that will soon enable it to produce a hood in biosourced PLA-type material, 100 % biodegradable. 

Further developments will follow in response to customer requests.

Wauters, winner of the PM'up competition

Winner of the PM'up competition for the second time, Wauters, a specialist in packaging for perfumery, cosmetics and spirits, joins the select circle of companies with high development prospects recognized by the Paris Region. This institutional support, which fewer than 1,500 companies have received in almost 10 years, will enable Wauters to accelerate its growth over the next three years.

After being selected and then audited, the Île-de-France Region jury validated the development project presented by Wauters on the basis of the following criteria:

  • business viability
  • strategy relevance
  • job creation potential
  • international development potential
  • the project's contribution to development in the Paris region
  • respect for environmental and social issues

Innovation rewarded

For over a century, Wauters has been innovating in a pioneering spirit, placing its development strategy at the heart of its ecosystem, taking into account people, production facilities and the environment.

"The project presented by Wauters responds to a dual desire to combine the performance of our industrial facilities with the challenges of corporate social responsibility. Innovation is essential if we are to keep pace with market needs and remain creative and competitive in the field of high quality. Investment accompanies our transformation, from our equipment to our development, including the pursuit of our digitalization. We are proud today to be supported by the Île-de-France region, and to be developing a promising project that will help stimulate the local economic fabric.the company says.

Wauters is a member of "Powered By Paris Region", the network of strategic and innovative companies created by the Paris Region.

Superga Beauty continues its expansion and sets up in India

Superga Beauty, a subsidiary of the Superga Invest Group serving leading luxury and beauty brands for over 20 years, announces the opening in March 2021 of an Indian subsidiary in New Delhi. 

This strategic move, aimed at a fast-changing market, will enable Superga Beauty to establish new business opportunities and extend its reach in terms of sourcing, one of the priorities of the Full Service and Promotion business.

Superga Beauty India is committed to a 100 % Fair Trade approach with its suppliers, who in turn respect the same fair trade commitments with their entire Supply Chain.

Fair trade principles enable manufacturers to make a commitment against poverty by guaranteeing minimum prices to producers and a decent standard of living for them and their families, without being governed by the laws of competition.

"India has become a choice alternative to China. The opening of Superga Beauty India marks a new stage in the group's international development".says Leslie Bréau Meniger, President of Superga Beauty. Based in New Delhi for the past two years, Nathalie Dickeli, Managing Director/CEO of Superga Beauty, heads up the Superga Beauty India subsidiary.

Firmenich uses the link between fragrance and context to deliver emotional benefits

Firmenich's scientific research has established that taking into account the consumer's context is the key to providing more emotional benefits to fragrances. After years of peer-reviewed research and publications, Firmenich demonstrates that its verbalized emotion approach through a unique Firmenich scent-emotion scale and implicit testing results in unique, emotionally powerful fragrances for consumers.

"The same scent will not evoke the same emotion in all consumers. For example, the smell of durian is synonymous with energy and well-being in China, but it is not appreciated in the US, explains Ilaria Resta, President, Global Perfumery. Through our scientific research, we can help our clients enhance the emotional impact of their products, with solutions tailored to each country's cultural context as well as product category preferences."

"Seventy percent of consumers' daily decisions are based on their emotions(*)explains Dr Christelle Porcherot, Corporate R&D Principal Scientist. While smells trigger strong emotions, these emotions also depend on personal life experiences and the context in which the smells are smelled." 

Using neuroscience, Firmenich researchers are able to understand the transformation of molecular signals into smells and memories. The Firmenich ScentMove emotion assessment model highlights nine emotional dimensions that encompass 25 commonly used qualifiers, far beyond the simple feeling of "pleasant". The fMRI observation of brain responses of individuals subjected to different fragrances has validated specific brain patterns corresponding to distinct emotional profiles. However, to develop relevant solutions, Firmenich also takes into account learning and memory. Cultural background, life experiences and commonly encountered scents shape the emotions felt, as our brain adapts to environmental changes.

"Emotional response can partly be observed by physiological measurements and brain recordings such as fMRI. However, only the verbalization of the feelings experienced provides a good understanding of the quality of the emotions provided by a fragrance, says Dr Christian Margot, Distinguished Scientist and Director, Corporate Research & Development. This allows us to connect a felt emotion to its context."

Firmenich was founded 125 years ago by a brilliant entrepreneur and chemist, with scientific research at the heart of its business from the start. The company invests an average of 10 % of its annual turnover in R&D. Using a multi-disciplinary approach, chemists, biologists, physicists and researchers make groundbreaking discoveries that continue to shape the fragrance and flavor industry: from the development of complex olfactive ingredients inspired by nature, to innovative delivery systems and formulations driven by artificial intelligence. At Firmenich, data and consumer insights are at the heart of fragrance creation, design and innovation, resulting in more fragrance benefits for both its customers and consumers worldwide.

Learn more about the work of Firmenich scientists on the sense of smell: https://www.firmenich.com/company/research/understanding-taste-smell

(*) Gallup, June 2020

Tereos obtains the first certification in France for organic beet alcohol production

A forerunner in the production of French organic beet sugar, the Tereos cooperative group is extending its range with the production of organic beet alcohol, which has just been awarded Cosmos certification for the first time in France.

Produced in November 2020 at the Tereos sugar-distillery in Artenay (Loiret), this alcohol is derived from organic beet processed at the Attin sugar refinery (Pas-de-Calais). This first French production of organic alcohol opens up new development opportunities for Tereos customers in the perfume and cosmetics sectors.

This organic alcohol production is part of a more global strategy to develop organic activity within Tereos. After a successful first campaign in 2019, Tereos has increased the area sown with organic beet in 2020 from 200 to 500 hectares. The number of partner farmers has doubled, with over 60 committed growers.

Artenay, at the heart of Cosmetic Valley

The Artenay site is strategically located at the heart of the Centre Val-de-Loire region's "Cosmetic Valley", 1er global resource center for cosmetics and fragrances.

A flagship industrial activity, this regional sector boasts the world's leading players, representing over 150 establishments and 10,800 jobs, including nearly 80 % in Eure-et-Loir and Loiret.

The organic market: steady growth

In recent years, the organic sector has enjoyed steady, sustained growth. Consumption of organic non-food products is now a must for the vast majority of French people.

image004- Ingredients - Product info

In the organic non-food market, organic cosmetics and personal care products have seen the strongest sales growth, up 16 points in two years (Source: Agence Bio February 2020).

Photo: Tereos sugar-distillery in Artenay (Loiret) Michel Blossier for Tereos

Seqens Cosmetics launches a new range of ingredients

site-industries-cosmetiques Seqens Cosmetics launches a new range of cosmetic ingredients.

With over 50 years' experience, Seqens Cosmetics is a European reference for the development of tailor-made ingredients and solutions for the most demanding industries such as cosmetics and perfumery. 

"With our long-standing expertise in the manufacture of key, complex cosmetic ingredients and intermediates, we offer our customers a unique continuum of expertise, accompanying them from the earliest stages of research and development right through to the industrialization of their products".the company says.

Backed by solid organic chemistry skills and specific industrial equipment, Seqens Cosmetics has built up the AdvensCare range, made up of ingredients and intermediates carefully selected for their value in cosmetic formulations and fragrances.

With AdvensCare, Seqens strengthens its support for cosmetics companies in the development and formulation of functional ingredients, actives and fragrances. The AdvensCare range covers a wide range of applications, from preservatives, emollients and emulsifiers to active ingredients, and involves the use of perfectly mastered technologies such as acid chlorides, acids and esters.

All AdvensCare ingredients are manufactured in France at Ecovadis Gold-certified sites, and are available in high levels of purity.

The AdvensCare range is made up of four ingredients: 

  • AdvensCare BZC is a crystalline quaternary ammonium salt, available as a pure, odorless, white to whitish fine powder. Mainly used as a fast-acting preservative in personal care and hygiene products, it is highly effective at low concentrations against a wide variety of micro-organisms. The recommended use rate for AdvensCare BZC in skin care cosmetics is 0.1 % in rinse-off and leave-on products in Europe and China, 0.5 % in the USA, and 0.5 % in rinse-off and 0.2 % in leave-on products in Japan. Soluble in water, alcohols, ketones and glycols, AdvensCare BZC can be easily formulated in solid or liquid form (soaps, shampoos, skin care creams...).
  • AdvensCare UDC is a colorless liquid used as a key raw material for the synthesis of a wide variety of cosmetic ingredients, including anti-dandruffs, anti-statics, emulsifiers, actives; where it is found bound to hydrolyzed collagen, alginate, hydrolyzed corn, soy or wheat protein... Available at a minimum purity of 98 %, AdvensCare UDC is oil-soluble and can easily be used to functionalize water-soluble ingredients (such as amino acids, peptides and proteins) to improve their formulability, skin penetration and bioavailability. 
  • AdvensCare DEA is a colorless liquid used as a masking agent in skincare products and fragrances, reducing or inhibiting base odor, and as an ingredient with a fruity olfactory profile in perfumes. It is also used as an emollient in a variety of skin-conditioning products, acting as a lubricant on the skin's surface, giving the skin a soft, smooth appearance.
  • AdvensCare UDA, a white crystalline powder, is a versatile ingredient with multiple functions for skin care products as a cleansing agent, emulsifier and masking agent. Its fatty acid derivative, ethyl decanoate, obtained by esterification, is used in the flavor and fragrance industry to provide a creamy or coconut scent. 

"Our expertise in the manufacture of specialty ingredients for the cosmetics and perfumery industries extends beyond the AdvensCare range. The main organic synthesis reactions for the cosmetics industry such as esterification, hydrogenation, halogenation, polymerization and alkylation are routinely carried out in our plants and can be made available for the quality manufacture of your strategic ingredients."emphasizes Seqens.

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