Committed to transparency and traceability thanks to its own supply chain in Peru, Laboratoires Expanscience has made avocado a product of excellence for over 30 years.

An oil with emollient and nourishing properties

Certified 100% organic by Ecocert Greenlife - according to the Cosmos (COSMetic Organic Standard) - this new organic virgin avocado oil is obtained by a cold-pressing method from the whole avocado: 100 % of the fruit is recovered, as the skin, pulp and stone are sliced, dehydrated and then pressed.

This exclusive physical process, patented by Expanscience, is in line with the laboratory's eco-design approach, and enables the oil to retain all the molecular richness of the avocado to nourish, protect the skin and add shine to the hair.

Controlling supply and the avocado supply chain in Peru

Considered a true product of excellence by Expanscience, the avocado, sourced at 100 % in Peru, is fully valorized in this new 100 % made in Peru guaranteed-origin virgin and organic oil.

The oil is produced directly at Expanscience's Deshidratados Tropicales plant in Lima.

Expanscience acquired the company in 2016 to secure supplies, be closer to growers and reduce the carbon impact of transporting fruit.

This transparent approach, from the sourcing of raw materials to the marketing of finished products, meets the increasingly demanding requirements of consumers in the cosmetics market.

"Science & conscience, naturally" is the philosophy of Expanscience's Cosmetic Active Ingredients business. With 40 years' experience in the field of plant raw materials, Laboratoires Expanscience develops innovative, high-quality natural cosmetic actives with respect for mankind and his environment, thanks to expertise in lipochemistry, molecular distillation and plant extraction. This responsible approach is recognized by Expanscience's B Corp certification since 2018 and by the UEBT (Union for Ethical BioTrade), of which the company has been a member since 2011.

Expanscience stands out in the active cosmetics market thanks to its pharmaceutical culture, which translates into a recognized commitment to the reliability and efficacy of active ingredients, as well as to the scientific rigor with which they are developed and manufactured.

Silab, a specialist in the engineering of natural active ingredients, is commissioning a second production line for single-cell organisms at its unique site within its Unité de Production par Biotechnologies (UPB), inaugurated in 2015.

Given the success of its natural active ingredients derived from micro-organisms, Silab has decided to build a second production line for large-scale cultivation of yeast, microalgae and bacteria. Entirely independent, it comprises a main 15,000 L bioreactor, enabling the company to quadruple its annual production of these high value-added natural raw materials used in the manufacture of its active ingredients.

In fact, these micro-organisms represent a powerful lever for innovation, as Brigitte Closs-Gonthier, Deputy Managing Director, Innovation, Silab, points out: "They offer immense potential, not only because of their diversity, but also because of their incredible metabolism. With this new line, Silab is giving itself the means not only to further diversify its production of microorganisms, but also to master their fascinating properties in order to open up access to unique molecules of interest."

Bringing the manufacture of single-cell organisms in-house is also a key strategic focus, in line with the company's widely-claimed value of independence, as Xavier Gaillard, Deputy Managing Director Strategy, Silab, explains: "This 5 million euro capacity investment is part of a wider 30 million euro investment program that has been carried out over three years. It was motivated by our desire to offer the cosmetics and dermo-cosmetics markets ever more innovative solutions, while meeting today's major challenges of securing, tracing and sustaining supplies."

Thanks to this new automated production facility, which, like the others on the site, offers excellent ergonomics for technicians, Silab intends to increase its share of natural active ingredients derived from micro-organisms, which currently account for 20 % of its catalog.

Givaudan Active Beauty reuses by-products from the food industry and recovers the seeds of Vaccinium myrtillus to create a natural ingredient capable of repairing skin dryness, irritation and desquamation linked to a weakened lipid barrier.

Omegablue is a cosmetic ingredient created from overcycled wild bilberries, a plant that grows in Central and Northern Europe. It is used for advanced skin repair.

Traditionally used by the food industry for their juice and sugar, bilberries are also an important source of anthocyanidins extracted from the pulp and skin of the fruit for the dietary supplements and pharmaceutical industries. 

What's more, according to Givaudan Active Beauty, the berries' tiny seeds contain up to 20 % of linoleic acid (omega-6) and α-linolenic acid (omega-3) in an optimal ratio; both compounds being known for their ability to improve hydration and skin barrier functionality. 

"Manufactured using a supercritical CO2 process in an overcycling of the seeds of this unique Vaccinum bilberry berry, Omegablue has been developed as a topical soothing agent for sensitive and damaged skin. It effectively soothes cutaneous discomfort on a transient or curative basis, and contains sebum-like essential fatty acids forming a protective barrier from external agents."says Giada Maramaldi, Personal Care Category Manager at Givaudan Active Beauty.

According to the company, Omegablue's efficacy in surfactant-induced depletion has been demonstrated in clinical tests. "Three days after the injury, the treated area regained its skin barrier function. Omegablue is also highly effective on skin with chronic inflammation (psoriasis), as it significantly reduces the severity of erythema by up to 27%, and scale formation by 28 % in four weeks. The results are even better for skin suffering from eczema, with erythema severity reduced by 37.5 % and itch rate by 42.8 %. In addition, PASI (Psoriasis Area Severity Score) and EASI (Eczema Area Severity Score) were significantly improved, by 27 % and 35 % respectively".says Givaudan Active Beauty.

To illustrate Omegablue's potential in skin and body care applications, Givaudan Active Beauty has formulated a shower oil called S.O. Smooth, with a light, silky texture. Enriched with chia oil, a natural ingredient that gently nourishes the skin, this shower oil cleanses and protects the skin against external aggressions and "restores and maintains the skin barrier to bring skin back into its comfort zone."

Omegablue is part of Givaudan Active Beauty's upcycling collection launched in October 2020. This collection includes eight other functional ingredients.

According to Givaudan Active Beauty, waste reduction is now the new standard for sustainability, and cosmetics containing recycled or upcycled ingredients are winning over some 69 % of consumers, particularly in Brazil (80 %) and China (74 %).¹. "Consumers are ready to go beyond and make upcycling beauty products a major trend for years to come, without giving up key elements of skin protection."says the company.

_{1 - CMI Global Study, May 2020.}