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Carestia Arcade Beauty boosts its sample cases and cards business

By
Kristel Milet
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Product design - Brand

To support the development of mini products within the group, Carestia Arcade Beauty, leader in perfume discovery through sampling, is stepping up its production of small cases and sample cards. In this way, the site responds to brands' expectations by sharpening its technical skills and investing accordingly.
Printing, folding, gluing, ultra-fine die-cutting, gilding registration... the Carestia factory is expanding its expertise to meet the growing demand from brands for miniature cardboard packs. The range of machines is being expanded to enhance technical expertise and encourage flexibility and competitiveness, particularly for short production runs.

Co-creation

Carestia supports its customers with technical and creative advice and the preliminary production of test mock-ups. The company then applies its expertise to the choice of materials, printing and finishing techniques, color development...
"Our cases and cardboard boxes business accounts for a growing share of our sales. This growth phenomenon can be explained by a craze for a material with low ecological impact, the success of small production runs, and of course, the technical and aesthetic rendering offered by this type of manufacturing", explains Marie-Hélène Marcelli, Director of Carestia.

Market of the future

To support its development in this segment of sample or mini-product cartons, Carestia is continuing to innovate and is setting out to conquer new markets such as spirits and delicatessen.

 

Albéa refills Yves Saint Laurent's exceptional Or Rouge skincare range

By
Kristel Milet
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Yves Saint Laurent - Yves Saint Laurent Or Rouge Serum

Yves Saint Laurent has reinvented skincare with the Or Rouge range, conceived as a case containing the most precious of skincare creams. In keeping with Yves Saint Laurent's commitment to sustainable development, Or Rouge has been designed as a luxurious case that can be refilled and recycled.
The textured lid features a brushed gold finish. It is emblazoned with the Yves Saint Laurent emblemquelogo, which surmounts a gilded glass jar.
The removable, replaceable refill fits inside Or Rouge La CrèmeRiche (50ml) and Or Rouge la Crème Fine (50ml).
Or Rouge by Yves Saint Laurent 50ml received an Award at PCD Paris 2019 in the Skin Care Premium - Rechargeability category.
Or Rouge was designed in the Albéa Simandre factory (Burgundy, France), the group's center of excellence for sophisticated skincare caps and metallization. Albéa Simandre is proud to offer "Made in France" expertise to the most prestigious cosmetics brands.

Alliance Healthcare launches YourGoodSkin

By
editocom
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Eyeliner - Manufacturing and packaging

According to an Ifop study for Alliance Healthcare conducted in September 2018, skin problems affect 93 % of women. For 92 % of them, a facial that works would be a source of well-being. To meet this need, Alliance Healthcare France is launching YourGoodSkin, its new facial skincare range for all skin types, developed in collaboration with over 2,000 women and 50 scientific experts and dermatologists. The range will be available exclusively in pharmacies. Corinne Morel, Digital and Retail Marketing Director at Alliance Healthcare France, comments on this decision: "We are convinced of the importance of personalized advice from the pharmacist, an expert in the field, in choosing the best skincare routine for your skin. The development of the YourGoodSkin skincare range is based on an unprecedented co-creation process with an exclusively female community, in collaboration with renowned experts. This is a first in the world of dermocosmetics, a new era in the treatment of skin imperfections," says Corinne Morel. The range features 18 products that enable customers to choose the ritual best suited to their skin type and specific needs, in 4 key stages designed to prepare, balance, protect and treat the skin.

www.yourgoodskin.com

Aptar is committed to sustainable development

By
Kristel Milet
-
Cosmetic industry - Product
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Keen to develop more sustainable packaging that meets the needs of its customers, it is now stepping up its activities in this area to help them achieve increasingly ambitious targets.

Limiting the impact of packaging on the planet

By 2025, 65 % of all packaging waste in the EU will have to be reusable or recyclable*. With this in mind, Aptar offers environmentally-friendly solutions by working on energy management issues (ISO 50001 standard), landfill-free certifications and product life-cycle assessment.
Particular attention is paid to the circular economy, which allows materials to be recycled rather than destroyed. And to support
As part of this ongoing commitment to responsible production, in 2012 Aptar set up a working group to develop and design ever more effective, eco-friendly packaging, using recyclable materials such as PP/PE for the Micro and Mezzo airless pump bottle ranges, and low energy consumption.

Innovating for greater eco-responsibility

Constantly on the lookout for suppliers and materials capable of replacing standard fossil resins, the Group has turned to post-consumer resins (PCR), post-industrial resins (PIR) and bio-plastics tested at its R&D centers. The former is a blend of recycled resins that would otherwise have become municipal waste. The second is a blend of recycled resins from industrial waste. The latter are derived from organic raw materials and carbohydrate-rich plants, such as corn, sugarcane or their waste products. Aptar has also recently launched the first dispensing system made from bio-based material, the GSA bio pump, as well as closures and other packaging made from PCR resin.

Mezzo Eco, the new airless in recycled and recyclable plastic 

To continue to innovate, digging the furrow of the circular economy and thus offering several life cycles to its containers, Aptar is today launching Mezzo Eco, an airless pump bottle designed for facial skincare and foundation products. 100% recyclable (pump included) and made from
25% of recycled resins, it contains no metal or silicone parts, and has been awarded the Ecocert label. This more efficient use of resources means lower costs and less waste, and a further step towards virtuous, eco-friendly packaging management.

Verescence announces the arrival of Stirling Square Capital Partners as a new shareholder

By
Kristel Milet
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Stirling Square Capital Partners - Cosmetics industry

Verescence, world leader in glass bottles for the perfume and cosmetics industries, today announced the arrival of Stirling Square Capital Partners, a pan-European investment company, as a new shareholder in the group.
With over 120 years of glassmaking expertise, Verescence is a privileged partner of the leading brands in the beauty industry. Verescence produces 500 million bottles a year at its 3 glass production sites and 4 finishing sites in Europe and North America. In 2018, Verescence employed 2,300 people worldwide and generated sales of 305 million euros.

"We are delighted with the arrival of Stirling Square Capital Partners as a new shareholder in the group, which will enable us to accelerate our international deployment and launch our new corporate project Verescence 2022 - Forming the future. This project is accompanied by a massive 122 million euro investment plan", comments Thomas Riou, President of Verescence. 

"Verescence is the leader in its market and the preferred partner of the most prestigious brands. We are delighted to join forces with Thomas Riou and his teams, to pursue the path of operational excellence, accelerate innovation programs and develop our global presence", says Julien Horreard, Partner at Stirling Square Capital Partners. 

PolymerExpert presents its EMC30 oil gelling agent

By
Kristel Milet
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Skin care - Essential oil
Natural organic extraction and green herbal leaves, Flower aroma essence solution in laboratory.

At the forthcoming InCosmetics Global show, PolymerExpert will be presenting its new, easy-to-use oil gelling agent.
Since 2017, PolymerExpert has been offering an oil gelling agent with extraordinary properties: EstoGel M. This polymer must be solubilized under high temperature conditions to reveal its optimal properties.
PolymerExpert now offers a ready-to-use raw material, EMC30, making this product available to everyone. This natural 97% solution can be used to formulate oily gels at temperatures as low as 80°C, ensuring all the properties that EstoGel M brings to formulas.

The main advantage of the EMC30 is its ease of use at 80°C.
EMC30 is a gelling agent of natural origin, bio-sourced at over 97%. It has been developed for polar to moderately polar oils. It offers numerous formulation advantages: from transparency, suspensivity, viscosity and thixotropy to anhydrous gels, with little impact on final cost.

INCI: Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer & Caprylic Capric Tryglycerides
The EMC30 will be on display in the Innovation Zone.

Anjac Health & Beauty accelerates international expansion with the acquisition of Catalan company Laboratoires Feltor

By
Kristel Milet
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Feltor Cosmetic Laboratory - Warehouse

The industrial group Anjac Health & Beauty (specialized in the formulation, manufacturing and packaging of cosmetics, medical devices, drugs and food supplements) has taken another step in its development by making a major acquisition. Feltor Laboratories (€40M turnover) manufactures high quality dermo-cosmetic products, pharmaceuticals and medical devices on an FDA certified site. This international acquisition completes the premium offer proposed by the group.

After recently acquiring the companies Aircos, Pascual Cosmetics and Innovi, ANJAC Health & Beauty continues its development and confirms its ambition to build a group composed of companies with strong added values. Indeed, each company that joins the group brings its unique know-how and its capacity for innovation.
By adopting this entrepreneurial strategy, Anjac Health & Beauty intends to consolidate its position as a major industrial player at the forefront of innovation.
"Feltor Laboratories intelligently completes the portfolio of expertise and products already owned by Anjac Health & Beauty, while allowing us to integrate the Spanish market" says Aurélien Chaufour, General Manager of Anjac Health & Beauty.

Feltor Laboratories, one of the leaders in the Spanish cosmetics sector

Recognized on their market, Feltor Laboratories, whose DNA is perfectly aligned with that of Anjac Health & Beauty, have demonstrated a strong potential for development. The two companies complement each other through their industrial excellence, their expertise in dermo-cosmetics and their ability to innovate.
Established in the Barcelona area since 1981, Feltor Laboratories initially focused on the production of cosmetics for mothers/children and athletes. Since then, the Catalan company has expanded its production to dermo-cosmetics, pharmaceutical specialties for topical use (gels, lotions, shampoos, moisturizers, sun creams, anti-aging creams, insect repellents, anti-lice products) and medical devices (nasal sprays, vaginal mucosa care and gels for medical equipment), which are distributed in Spain and internationally.

Feltor Laboratories have specific know-how in premium products elaborated for high-end dermo-cosmetic brands. The Catalan manufacturer places great importance on quality and has numerous certifications (ISO9001, ISO14000, OHSAS18001, GMP, etc.). Feltor Laboratories recently passed an audit by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), which opened the doors to the American market.

True to its convictions, Anjac Health & Beauty confirms that the management of the company, as well as the managerial and operational teams, will remain in place. These employees are indeed key resources to continue the growth of Feltor Laboratories, and to promote exchanges between the companies already present within the Group.

A dynamic start to the year

"Our ambition is to transform the business of industrial subcontracting by expanding our service offering towards our customers, in order to enhance our capacity for innovation and our position as an expert in the sector" says Aurélien Chaufour. After an acquisition in 2017, then two new ones in 2018, Anjac Health & Beauty demonstrates at the beginning of this year its will to continue its sustained entrepreneurial momentum. According to Aurélien Chaufour, "Anjac Health & Beauty is working on various projects to accelerate the pace of its acquisitions in France and internationally for the year 2019."
Anjac Health & Beauty carefully selects its acquisition projects of companies with new and complementary expertise, in order to complete its offer and strengthen the Group's positioning.

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Gattefossé launches its new W/O emulsifier at in-cosmetics global

By
Kristel Milet
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Industry - Cosmetic industry

To meet growing consumer demand for natural suncare and make-up products, Gattefossé has accepted a challenge and will be presenting a new ingredient at in-cosmetics global Paris.
Gattefossé drew on its solid expertise in lipid chemistry to develop Emulium Illustro, an innovative water-in-oil (W/O) emulsifier of natural origin, designed primarily for formulas containing pigments. Derived from a patented technology based on polyglycerol esters, Emulium® Illustro meets consumers' expectations and formulators' requirements in terms of performance and flexibility.

Uncompromising naturalness

Emulium Illustro has demonstrated superior performance and stability to other W/O emulsifiers on the market.
Flexible, easy to formulate and cold-applied, this new ingredient creates fluid textures that are comfortable on the skin, providing a soft touch and a feeling of hydration.
Particularly interesting in make-up and suncare formulations, Emulium Illustro can also be used to formulate original skin care textures.

"We worked for six years to find a lipid composition that would provide a concrete solution to the problems associated with formulating natural W/O emulsions. We selected three raw materials which underwent esterification followed by interesterification. The combination of a polyglycerol-6 grade containing little free glycerol with 12-hydroxystearic and ricinoleic acids has resulted in a flexible structure capable of stabilization without co-emulsifiers. The unsaturated chain adds fluidity to the emulsion, resulting in textures that are easy to spread. Maxime Nollet, engineer specializing in lipid chemistry at Gattefossé.

"Guided by experts in make-up formulation, we placed pigments at the heart of research from day one. Emulsions were built around pigments, taking into account different types of coating as well as uncoated ingredients. We challenged Emulium Illustro through a battery of tests to explore it from every angle: compatibility with cosmetic ingredients, stability, sensoriality and clinical evaluation. We also developed several formulas to demonstrate its benefits in make-up, sun care and skin care. Our natural foundation was evaluated by a panel of consumers accustomed to using foundations with silicones. The volunteers were delighted not only by the product's performance, but also by the way their bare skin looked after use. This is the greatest reward we could have expected." Malorie Duvent, formulation engineer at Gattefossé.

French cosmetics sector exports 14.5 billion euros, confirming its role as world leader

By
Kristel Milet
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Cosmetics and perfume industry

In 2018, the excellence and innovation of the French cosmetics industry were reflected in exports that passed the 14.5 billion euro mark (+6.3% on 2017). The sector posted a positive trade balance of 11.2 billion euros, up nearly 6.6% on 2017. The sector maintains its place on the podium of French export champions after aeronautics and wines and spirits.
Once again, the value of exports exceeds the sector's sales on the French market.

EU, Asia and North America remain top-performing zones

  • In the European Union, export growth remains strong, with an increase of 4.5%. The biggest increases were in Spain (+8.5%) and Italy (+7.2%). The outcome of the Brexit negotiations is eagerly awaited by the sector, as the UK is the second EU country (after Germany) to which France exports the most (over 1 billion euros, with an increase of 3%).Outside the EU, Russia's increase was 17.8%.
    Although Europe is already a mature market, and French products already have a strong presence there, the attractiveness and safety of our products means that we can continue to increase our exports.
  • Exports to Asia continue to grow, with an increase of 16.6% in 2018 and growth in excess of 20% in China (+22.7%) and Singapore (+24%). More than 20% of French products now go to Asia, representing more than 2.6 billion euros.
  • North America posted a 6.8% increase in exports, with a 5.7% rise in exports to the United States. This country remains the second most important destination for our global exports. South and Central America remain stable.
  • In the Near and Middle East region, exports fell slightly by 2.1% (with Saudi Arabia down 6.2%), closely linked to changes in oil prices.
  • For the Africa zone, the situation is contrasted: West Africa is up with +16.8%, while Central and Southern Africa is down by 6.8%. North Africa was also down (-3.7%), mainly due to Algeria blocking imports.

"French cosmetics continue to play a leading role worldwide. Admired for its excellence, it is innovating more than ever to meet consumers' new demands for well-being: in the quality and safety of formulations, the personalization of products and environmental commitment" declares Patrick O'Quin, President of the French Federation of Beauty Companies (FEBEA).

Champion categories maintain their momentum

Skincare products and perfumes still account for 3⁄4 of French cosmetics exports: respectively 45% for skincare and 22% for perfumes.
Other champion categories included :

  • Make-up continues to gain momentum, with exports up (by 4.8% for lip make-up and 3.7% for eye make-up),
  • Hair preparations increased by 7.5% and shampoos by 5.8%.

Pharmacosmetech : 1st exhibition of services, equipment and processes for the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries, for perfumery and for fine chemistry

By
Kristel Milet
-
Chemical substances - Physics

Pharmacosmetech will be held from April 2 to 4, 2019 at the Parc des Expositions in Chartres. A strategic location, since the region is home to the "Cosmetic Valley" and a pharmaceutical industry with a strong presence between Dreux, Chartes and Rouen, and on a Rouen/Orléans axis that concentrates over 42% of related industrial activities nationwide.
The concept convinced the 2 emblematic associations of the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries: Cosmetic Valley and Polepharma*. As partners in the show, they saw the opportunity to bring together in a single venue the industries that concern them.

Over 300 exhibitors are expected at this first event which will bring together manufacturers and distributors of materials, equipment and services for the pharmaceutical, cosmetics, perfumery and fine chemicals industries, as well as players meeting the production, maintenance, logistics, safety and environmental needs of production sites in these industrial sectors. The show is primarily aimed at decision-makers and direct specifiers from operational departments: senior pharmacists, production/manufacturing managers, maintenance, technical, QHSE, new works, logistics, design/methods offices, instrumentation, formulation, laboratories, etc.

This first edition confirms a formula that has already proved its worth Even.pro's mission: to organize a trade event that is as close as possible to the industries and audiences it targets. The organizer Even.pro reproduces the innovative concept of its SEPEM Industries trade shows launched in 2006: 30 regional editions in 12 years, between 400 and 750 exhibitors and between 3,600 and 7,500 visitors depending on the edition.

A complete range of expertise in 10 business categories

  • Safety/Health/Environment
  • Packaging/Packaging/Traceability
  • Control/Measurement/Instrumentation
  • Laboratory/Clean room
  • Processes/Controls/Automation
  • Subcontracting/Maintenance
  • Raw materials/Additives
  • Services/Engineering/Training/IT
  • Industrial equipment/Industrial buildings
  • Handling/Warehousing/Logistics

Exclusive conferences

In addition to the many technologies and industrial innovations presented at the show, Pharmacosmetech will be offering an exclusive program of conferences (the conference program will be available shortly).

Free visitor services 

Entrance, parking, checkroom - all the services offered at the show are free of charge. There are also free shuttle buses from Paris/Orly and Chartres SNCF station.

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