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Autophagy, a biological signature Silab in cosmetics

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The editorial staff
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Skin - Detoxification

On Monday October 3, Japanese biologist Yoshinori Ohsumi was awarded the 2016 Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine for elucidating the biological mechanism of autophagy, a powerful process for degrading and recycling cell constituents. His research has highlighted autophagy's role in a number of pathologies and in aging.

As early as 2006, when autophagy was just background noise in dermatology, Silab's advanced research and university partnerships were deploying a research strategy to understand this machinery and its functions in the skin.

Silab and autophagy: key figures :

  • 10 years of research,
  • 4 national and international patents,
  • 2 theses and 2 partnerships with public research laboratories*,
  • 7 international communications, including 4 publications and 3 conferences,
  • 1 innovation award,
  • 1 international seminar organized by Silab on April 15, 2013 at the Maison de la Chimie, Paris.

Silab is a pioneer and innovator with unique expertise in cutaneous autophagy, based on groundbreaking biological models. This essential modeling approach is a major asset in the exploration of autophagic mechanics. As early as 2009, Silab proposed the active ingredient Celldetox, an autophagy modulator which is available and widely acclaimed on the market today. Acting on autophagy markers (lysosomes, LC3), this biotechnological active ingredient revives the radiance of intoxicated skin and smoothes microrelief after 14 days; it evens skin tone and erases wrinkles after 28 days. A genuine detoxification and cellular longevity booster, it offers new youthfulness to tired skin. In line with its strategy, Silab continues to extend its research scope to explore new autophagic pathways such as mitophagy and mitochondrial autophagy.

* EA 3842, Homéostasie Cellulaire et Pathologies, Faculté de Médecine, Limoges, France UMR 5239, Molecular Biology of the Cell Laboratory, Ecole Normale Supérieure de Lyon, CNRS - UCBL - ENS Lyon, France.

The organic cosmetics label becomes European (Cosmos) as of 01/01/2017

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The editorial staff
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The family guide to essential oils: Instructions for use + basic kits, 60 essential oils in detail, over 275 formulas classified by disorder - Essential oil

Do you think there are too many organic cosmetics labels? Can't find your way around? That's perfectly normal, since there are so many different standards to choose from. But why? Because there are currently no specific government regulations applying to organic cosmetics. In 2002, Cosmebio was one of the first organizations to establish a framework for organic cosmetics, to combat "green marketing". One of the concerns of Cosmebio and its partners is to guarantee consumers in every country cosmetics that respect both people and the environment. With this in mind, 5 founding members (Cosmebio, BDIH, Ecocert, ICEA, Soil Association) have created the European Cosmos standard - with an international scope - which will be mandatory for all new organic cosmetics from January 1, 2017! In concrete terms, cosmetics bearing the Cosmebio organic label will no longer be certified under the French Bureau Veritas or Ecocert standards, but under the European Cosmos standard. The aim? Harmonize the different standards to simplify life for consumers!

What's new
There are no changes to the logo, but a new "Cosmos Organic" label has been added to the Cosmebio organic label. The Cosmos label is intended to help consumers identify organic cosmetics that meet the same requirements, from one country to another. The international scope of this standard means that 85 % of certified organic cosmetics worldwide will carry the Cosmos signature. Companies that are members of and/or certified by the founding members (Cosmebio, Ecocert, BDIH, Soil Association and ICEA) now account for the vast majority of certified products worldwide: more than 2,000 brands, distributed in over 50 countries, producing over 45,000 cosmetic products. Cosmos has a promising future!
With regard to formulation, the Cosmos Organic label will be affixed to cosmetics containing :
> 95 to 100 % of natural ingredients (as before)
> 95 to 100 % of organic ingredients out of vegetable ingredients (as before)
> Maximum of 5 % ingredients approved in a restrictive list (as before)

On the other hand, 2 new criteria have been added to the Cosmos standards, making organic cosmetics more demanding than they were before:
> Organic content of total ingredients rises from 10 to 20 %
> Biodegradability: only biodegradable ingredients are accepted.


Arcade Beauty Europe authorized for parapharmacy

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The editorial staff
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COSMETICS 360 - Cosmetic industry
socoplan france

Arcade Beauty's Socoplan plant in the Deux-Sèvres region of France, which specializes in samples and single-dose cosmetics, has successfully passed tests to ensure compliance with American and Canadian regulations for the packaging of OTC beauty and skincare products in North America. These include sun creams, make-up products containing sun filters, serums, specific skin care or anti-acne treatments, as well as other specialties, sold in pharmacies and parapharmacies.

Arcade Beauty Socoplan can now guarantee beauty brands regulatory compliance on the North American market, following the control audit commissioned this summer by the US and Canadian health authorities.

In the USA and Canada, certain cosmetic products are classified as OTC (Over the Counter), over-the-counter medicines.

Two audits were successfully completed in the summer of 2016. This regulatory audit covered the assessment of compliance with Current Good Manufacturing Practices (FDA standard in the USA and Canadian standard) of all processes. It required the collaboration and energy of all the site's teams, who were heavily involved and mobilized in this project.

Combined with the ISO 22716 European cosmetics approval already held by the company, this new qualification enables Arcade Beauty Socoplan to provide brands with answers to their growing regulatory requirements.

LVMH and its Houses Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior inaugurate the Perfumed Fountains in Grasse

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The editorial staff
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Perfume - Les Fontaines Parfumées

On September 15, the LVMH group inaugurated Les Fontaines Parfumées, the new perfume house jointly owned by the two groups. Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior. Located in the heart of Grasse, the estate is dedicated to showcasing the finest expertise in French haute parfumerie.

Entirely dedicated to the creation of fragrances, the Fontaines Parfumées were inaugurated by Bernard Arnault, Chairman and CEO of LVMH, and the Maisons Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior, reunited for the first time in a unique ecosystem that federates all fragrance expertise, from the flower to the bottle. The master perfumers of the two houses, François Demachy for Christian Dior and Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud for Louis Vuitton, are returning to the land of their birth, where they grew up and were trained as noses.

By locating their creative workshop in Grasse, Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior are contributing to the preservation of the region's perfume flowers, the guarantors of exceptional creation, and perpetuating the Grasse heritage of four centuries of history and innovation. A land of excellence in perfumery, Grasse is the only site in the world that brings together the know-how of growers, craftsmen and perfumers, working in perpetual interaction at every stage of a perfume's creation.

dior_fontaines_parfumees-0577_f39-1512x1020Set in the heart of the city, Les Fontaines Parfumées is an estate emblematic of Grasse's identity and its history, from leather city to world perfume capital. Abandoned since the 1970s, the three-hundred-year-old Bastide has been given a new lease of life. The aim is twofold: to preserve its authenticity while respecting local know-how, and to bring it into the 21st century.e century.

After four years of heritage research and a year of work by local craftsmen and craftswomen, Les Fontaines Parfumées has been reborn. In addition to a high-tech perfume laboratory and a Moulin transformed into an olfactory training workshop, the estate is home to a garden with a rich plant palette: over 350 essences, including exceptional roses, tuberoses and some twenty different mints. A source of inspiration for François Demachy and Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud.

Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior have made a long-term commitment to support the growers of Grasse through the signing of privileged partnerships. Les Fontaines Parfumées will also be a place for sharing: apprentices will be welcomed and trained by the two Master Perfumers. " The inauguration of Les Fontaines Parfumées reflects our desire to perpetuate our expertise. Through the establishment of this new perfume house in Grasse, LVMH is once again committed to preserving, transmitting and promoting the best know-how in their region of origin. "said Bernard Arnault, Chairman and CEO of LVMH.

Photos © Christian Dior Parfums - Tina Hilier

Arcade Beauty strengthens its range of "Beauty-to-Go" mini products

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The editorial staff
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Cosmetics industry - Bottle

Arcade Beauty launches a global solution consisting of a mini-bottle available in three applications: Ecoroll, Dady and Minidrip. The standard glass bottle is combined with three original applicators, for three different uses, each enabling precise application and perfect dosage of the formula.

This line, developed for perfumes, skincare and fluid make-up, is ideal for beauty kits, promotional boxes, complete treatment kits and travel kits.

The bottle is made of drawn glass. Capacity varies from 1.5 to 6 ml, depending on diameter and height.

  • Ecoroll is a simplified, patented roller ball with a simple snap-on cover.
    It combines a roll-on ball, in glass, plastic or metal, whose application provides relaxation and freshness, and perfectly diffuses the formula on the skin.
    Just introduced to the market, this product is already winning over skincare and fragrance brands in its unique mini-version.
  • Dady is based on a highly innovative tigelle whose split end captures the fragrance in the bottle, increasing comfort and application quantity. This flexible stem integrates an ergonomic gripper in a single piece, guaranteeing perfect closure with a simple click.

These two new products join the already existing :

  • Minidrip is a miniature dropper featuring a collar and dip tube topped by a flexible nipple. Perfect for use with skincare products, oils, serums, etc.
    This offer is accompanied by creative marketing in terms of mini-packaging or mini-display to enhance perceived value, the gift effect or in-store presentation.

These mini products are packaged in full service in Biopack Arcade Beauty's French factory in Val-de-Reuil, France. Creative packaging (cases, cards, envelopes, etc.) is provided by Carestia Arcade Beauty in Grasse.

DuPont Performance Materials and SIMP Collaboration Results in New Mascara Brush

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The editorial staff
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Brush - Mascara Brush Nr. 1 MAANGE

DuPont Performance Materials (DPM) announces the selection of Dupont's Hytrel TPC-ET thermoplastic elastomer for the production of an innovative mascara brush.

This is the latest jewel in the crown of a long-standing collaboration between DPM and SIMP, a French SME with global reach thanks to its expertise in micro-injection. It produces 35 % of the market's plastic applicators, for the world's leading cosmetics companies.

Combining strength, flexibility and mechanical resistance, DuPont's Hytrel TPC-ET thermoplastic elastomer is inherently well suited to the production of make-up items. With Hytrel, DuPont and SIMP have found the perfect balance between technical requirements and functionality to meet growing market demand for high compatibility between material and shape.

" We are delighted to see that the flexibility and versatility of our resin can be used to design innovative and aesthetically pleasing products in the shapes specially created by SIMP. "confides Alexandra Fabbro, Business development leader EMEA, DuPont.

Hytrel provides a single material solution for parts that previously required a whole range of components. Thanks to its excellent cross-linking properties and resistance to bending fatigue, this material can be used for a wide range of applications. And when combined with ease of processing and the right tools, this unique thermoplastic polymer becomes particularly well-suited to the creation of an injected mascara brush.

" We're proud that our collaboration with DuPont has enabled us to adapt this high-performance resin to a new application that will be the talk of the town. Flexible yet decoratable, this novel mascara brush is set to become a trendy must-have. This joint venture further strengthens our passion for innovation! "says Eric de Bardonnèche, Sales and R&D manager, SIMP.

The collaboration between DuPont and SIMP is based on a shared desire to develop original cosmetic solutions while responding to new market trends - and Hytrel has been the key ingredient in this collaboration for over ten years. This new mascara brush is just one example of a high-performance solution that directly benefits end-user comfort. It also demonstrates DuPont's commitment to bio-based polymers, which reduce the use of fossil fuels without compromising material performance.

Silab group invests in the care of fragile skin

By
The editorial staff
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Cosmetic industry - Industry

The mission of the new Silab softcare department is to research, produce and market innovative natural active ingredients, specially designed to respond to dermatological disorders by restoring the homeostasis of healthy skin.

A pioneer in the engineering of natural cosmetic active ingredients, Silab now addresses the dermocosmetic and dermatological markets. Silab softcare draws on the expertise, capacity for innovation and responsiveness of the Silab organization to extend the skills developed for healthy skin to the problems of fragile skin.

For over 5 years, a team of multi-disciplinary researchers, including molecular biologists, bioinformaticians, clinical experts and process engineers, has been deploying the latest tools and advanced technologies from the healthcare sector to gain a deeper understanding of skin eco-systems. It has designed an original scientific research program, based on modelling in vitro and in vivo validated by the international dermatological community, to offer a product in powder form without preservatives, based on three principles of excellence: efficacy, safety and naturalness.

silab-softcare-3The first phase of Silab softcare's development has resulted in the launch of Ad-Resyl, a patented natural active ingredient designed to improve the comfort and resilience of atopic skin. This product prevents the clinical signs of atopic dermatitis by prolonging periods of remission in place of corticosteroid therapy. Tested on cohorts of Caucasian and Asian subjects, children and/or adults, Ad-Resyl meets the many requirements of patients seeking care and comfort to restore their skin's health: clinically proven efficacy, optimal skin tolerance, controlled natural raw materials.

" Silab is an independent French group with a long-term strategy of organic growth. Our innovation in the beauty care of healthy skin has been recognized worldwide for 30 years, and our expertise in cutaneous biology has led us to naturally broaden our field of research to include fragile skin. The ambitions of this new department are numerous, and other research projects have already been launched (acne, scarring, etc.). "says Brigitte Closs-Gonthier, Executive Vice President, Research, Silab.

Pigments : Sensient Awarded at In-Cosmetics North America

By
The editorial staff
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Beauty - Beauty salon

Sensient Cosmetic Technologies' new FSP treated pigment range has won first prize in the Innovation Zone at In-Cosmetics North America.

This new FSP surface treatment combines fluorosilanes and fluoropolymers, giving it hydrophobic and lipophobic properties, for long-lasting make-up that resists perspiration, sebum and humidity; without compromising the ease of application and compaction for powders. This meets a growing need among consumers for high-performance make-up for their increasingly active lifestyles.

The competition brought together the most innovative functional ingredients from theInnovation Zone. The prize was awarded by a panel of experts from the cosmetics and beauty industries. personal carewho recognized its marked difference from existing ingredients.

SGD becomes Verescence

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The editorial staff
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Mers-les-Bains - Écouché

SGD Parfumerie changes its name to Verescence. Now independent and focused on the perfumery and cosmetics market, the company's new name marks an important milestone in its history. Verescence, with its elegant, French sound, reflects the company's origins.

Rich in meaning, the name combines Ver's glassmaking expertise with the suffix escent, which literally expresses transformation: the transformation of sand into glass, the transformation of bold ideas into innovations, the transformation of the company to become the global benchmark in the beauty market. "It's an opportunity for us to give a name to what we are today: a company in the throes of transformation, striving for excellence, an international company that puts its know-how, diversity and talents at the service of its customers."says Thomas Riou, CEO.

With 4 glass production sites, 5 finishing sites, 3,200 employees on several continents and a worldwide sales network, the Verescence group has a production capacity of one billion bottles a year, which it supplies with innovative, environmentally-friendly solutions.

www.verescence.com

Second edition of Bretagne Beauty

By
The editorial staff
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Cosmetic industry - Beauty

After the success of the first edition, it's time for the second edition of the Bretagne Beauty show, on Monday November 7, 2016 in Guingamp! Some twenty cosmetics brands from Brittany will be exhibiting their product lines and innovations, and sharing their skincare rituals with managers from institutes, spas, thalasso centers, luxury hotels and pharmacies/para-pharmacists.

The Bretagne Beauty trade show, organized by the Lycée Notre-Dame Guingamp, the Anticipa technology park and the Cosmed Grand Ouest branch, is aimed at all skincare and pharmacy/parapharmacy professionals in the Greater West of France, with information distributed to a target audience of over 2,000 managers.

The aim of the show is to promote Brittany's cosmetics industry, with its focus on well-being, naturalness and innovation, and to present it to a professional clientele. Beauty salon and spa professionals will (re)discover targeted, cutting-edge Breton cosmetics, which make the most of new ingredients (seaweed, seawater, argan, fruit, stem cells...) and position themselves in the anti-aging, natural, organic, luxury segments... In just one day, the show offers trends, brands and mini-conferences, enabling managers to stand out from the crowd and boost their points of sale.

www.bretagnebeauty.com

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