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SGS acquires cosmetics testing laboratory IEC

Facial care

Geneva-based SGS, a global specialist in testing, inspection and certification, has signed an agreement to acquire IEC (Institut d'Expertise Clinique).

A French family-owned group founded in 1990, IEC conducts clinical trials to assess safety and efficacy, as well as to test the effectiveness of its products. in vitrosensory analysis studies, as well as consumer tests. These tests are carried out for dermatological and ophthalmological products in the cosmetics, pharmaceutical and chemical sectors. The group - which employs over 150 people - is present in Europe, Asia and Africa, serving an international clientele of some of the world's most prestigious brands.

Completion of the acquisition remains subject to the usual conditions precedent, including employee consultation in France.

"Joining SGS, a leader in our sector, is a fantastic opportunity for IEC. It will help us to better serve our customers by leveraging the many synergies offered by such a global player, whether in terms of innovation, marketing, operational excellence or international expansion. We look forward to joining such a powerful network.said IEC Chairman Etienne Camel.

"We are delighted to welcome IEC and its talented teams to SGS. This acquisition is aligned with our strategic objectives and further strengthens our global leadership in cosmetics and hygiene testing. IEC brings SGS innovative capabilities and strong scientific expertise, as well as a complementary geographic footprint and service offering."said Géraldine Picaud, CEO of SGS.

SGS is a multi-sector group with almost 100,000 employees and a network of over 2,600 offices and laboratories worldwide.

Commusys, a new key ingredient in dermal-epidermal communication 

SILAB_COMMUSYS

Silab develops, manufactures and markets natural, patented active ingredients of proven efficacy and safety to leading names in the cosmetics and dermo-cosmetics industry. Interested in cross-compartmental communication between the dermis and epidermis during aging, an essential component in ensuring skin longevity, the company has set up a modelling study to study the role of the epidermis in the aging process. in vitro unpublished. 

First, the mediators involved in dermal-epidermal communication were mapped, highlighting the major role of the proteome, miRNA expression in extracellular vesicles (including exosomes), and the IGF-1/IGF-1R pathway. Silab then demonstrated that these mediators are deregulated during aging, leading to a communication defect that impairs the biological functions of the epidermis.

A natural anti-aging ingredient

With this in mind, Silab has developed Commusys, an active ingredient capable of regulating the molecular players involved in communication from the dermis to the epidermis, thereby reactivating epidermal functions.

According to Silab, the secretome of aged fibroblasts treated with Commusys at 0.4 % enhances keratinocyte processes such as cell proliferation and cohesion, keratinocyte differentiation, hydration and anchoring of keratinocytes at the dermal-epidermal junction.

These results are reflected in in vivo on a mature Caucasian panel by positive effects on epidermal renewal and thickness, assessed using optical biopsies. The skin of Caucasian and Asian volunteers was moisturized, smoothed and radiant after twice-daily use of Commusys at 1.7%. 

A wealth of biopeptides from Pichia stipitis 

Building on its expertise in natural peptide development, Silab has exploited yeast's natural richness in proteins. Pichia stipitis

Well-known for their anti-aging action, peptides act as cellular messengers capable of regulating the skin's biological functions. 

This collection of yeast is grown in Silab's biotechnology plant in France. It meets the company's raw materials traceability and sustainability requirements.

Obtained through a process combining enzymatic engineering and purification, Commusys is purified to over 90% biopeptides. 

Silab points out that Commusys is a patented active ingredient recommended in all skincare products dedicated to mature skin, at a dose of 0.4 to 1.7%. Available in aqueous solution, it is easy to formulate, according to the company. It complies with biodiversity regulations and has a natural origin content of 98.8 % (ISO 16128). It complies with international cosmetics regulations (Europe, USA, China, Japan, etc.).

Givaudan acquires Italian company b.kolormakeup & skincare (b.kolor)

cosmetics-1543276_1920 rc

Swiss group Givaudan, a global specialist in fragrances and beauty products, has announced that it has finalized the acquisition of b.kolormakeup & skincare (b.kolor), an Italian company specializing in the development and production of finished makeup and skincare products. This transaction follows the purchase of 25 % of the Italian company's capital by Givaudan in July 2021.

This acquisition enables Givaudan to offer innovative solutions for make-up formulas and to further expand its capabilities in skincare applications. 

Founded in 2000 and based near Milan, Italy, b.kolor employs over 300 people. The company is recognized as an expert in the design of creative formulas and the production of finished products for B2B customers, focusing on innovation and sensory benefits combined with cutting-edge technical performance. With two modern plants, it serves a broad customer base including independent brands, local and regional customers, as well as international companies. Some 90 % of its sales are generated outside Italy. 

"After three years of fruitful partnership with b.kolor, the completion of this acquisition is a major milestone in the company's development. is a great success for Givaudan and the promise of an exciting adventure. By sharing our creative and innovative capabilities, we will generate additional value for our respective customers by offering a complete package combining high-level scientific knowledge and design excellence".said Maurizio Volpi, President of Givaudan's Fragrance and Beauty Division.

"We are delighted to expand in the beauty sector by benefiting from b.kolor's expertise. This acquisition not only strengthens our capabilities in make-up and skincare, but also positions us as leaders in driving the market towards an even more solutions-driven future."added Markus Rassmann, Managing Director of Givaudan Active Beauty,

"Joining Givaudan, a market leader, is an excellent opportunity to propel our business to new heights. Givaudan's creative, ingredient and technological capabilities will greatly assist us in evolving our product offering, and we will also benefit from Givaudan's customer base and geographic presence as we expand into new territories. We are delighted to share our unique creative design and production know-how with Givaudan to bring tomorrow's products to life.said Maria-Teresa Sancini, President of b.kolor.

The terms of the agreement were not disclosed. 

Photo : Maria / Pixabay

Groupe Rocher, Laboratoires Expanscience and Naos join the Trasce consortium

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Albéa, Chanel, Clarins, Cosfibel powered by GPA Global, Dior, The Estée Lauder Companies, Groupe Pochet, L'Occitane en Provence, L'Oréal Groupe, Merck, Neyret, Nuxe, Sensient, Shiseido and Sisley have launched the Trasce consortium (for Traceability Alliance for Sustainable Cosmetic)a alliance to improve supply chain traceability. 

Faced with the multiplication of necessary but individual initiatives in this field, Trasce was born out of the need for a change of scale in the cosmetics industry's traceability procedures. 

Three new companies have joined the 15-year-old consortium: Groupe Rocher, Laboratoires Expanscience and Naos, reflecting Trasce's concrete and tangible commitment to deepening knowledge of the filières of the cosmetics sector. 

The long-term objective is to consolidate a collective approach to CSR risks and defin common progress plans to promote a more sustainable and resilient model.

Trasce aims to put the strength of the collective to work for the sector as a whole, thanks to the mapping by consortium members of their supply chains on a common digital platform, TransparencyOne, an ISN company.

For Marion Decroix, Sustainability and Quality Director at Groupe Rocher : "We're delighted to be joining the Trasce consortium, whose approach is perfectly in line with the dynamic that Groupe Rocher has been pursuing for many years on its plant filières, in particular. More than ever, we are convinced that it is through the strength of the collective that we will be able to deepen our knowledge of our supply chains, while touching on other types of raw materials as well as the filières relating to our packaging. With a view to improving practices throughout our value chain to make them ever more sustainable and responsible, Trasce will enable us to accelerate on all these issues and encourage even closer collaboration with all our partners."

According to Stéphane Faustin-Leybach, Naos Purchasing Director: "A committed and engaging company, NaoS has always had a vocation to love, understand and care for living things. Very early on, we established our approach to transparency as one of our fundamental pillars, which took concrete form with the launch of our Ask.NAOS tool, the digital platform that deciphers in detail the composition of our brands' products. Our joining the Trasce consortium only serves to confirm our determination to make the cosmetics sector ever more sustainable."

"At Laboratoires Expanscience, we know that more than half of our environmental impact is upstream of the manufacturing process. As a company with a mission since 2021 and a certified B-Corp, we want to play a role in the transition of the sector and society, and are convinced that well-being is a collective issue. Joining the Trasce consortium enables us to continue our long-standing work on the traceability of our filières, while collaborating with players in the sector to bring about strong and lasting change in the supply chains, cultivation methods and production of the materials we use in our products."says Laurent Schatz, Purchasing Director at Laboratoires Expanscience.

Photo: dungthuyvunguyen / Pixabay

Innovative, lightweight dropper bottle

ELIXIR Stoelzle

Stoelzle Parfumerie & Cosmétiques is delighted to launch Elixir, an addition to its collection of standard cosmetic bottles. This elegant dropper bottle with its sophisticated look focuses on durability and practicality. 

Its classic cylindrical shape, a popular choice for cosmetics, fits in perfectly as an alternative to existing designs on the market. Opting for a standard bottle offers significant advantages, including no development costs and shorter delivery times. 

In the near future, Stoelzle will also be offering lightweight bottles for fragrances, extending its commitment to innovative, sustainable packaging solutions. 

Elixir represents a real evolution in packaging design; Stoelzle has achieved a significant reduction in weight: at just 53 grams, Elixir approaches a 32 % reduction in the current range. This innovative approach makes the bottle easier to use and underlines Stoelzle's commitment to sustainability. Elixir's lightweight design results in a 32 % reduction in CO2 compared with Stoelzle's standard 30 ml bottles. 

To complement Elixir, Stoelzle offers a wide range of matching closures to ensure precise dosage and easy handling; various pumps, pipettes, sprays and more are compatible with this new bottle, available in high-quality materials with different finishes. This attention to detail guarantees beautifully packaged, easy-to-use products. 

Stoelzle's Standard Collection offers a wide range of customizable glass bottles and jars. With an integrated decoration workshop, Stoelzle offers more than 20 decoration techniques, from lacquering to silk-screening and durable powder coating methods. This comprehensive personalization guarantees sophisticated packaging that stands out in the market and attracts attention. 

Glass remains one of the most sustainable packaging materials for cosmetics, and Stoelzle continues to lead the way in environmental management. Once again, the company has achieved EcoVadis Gold status, placing it in the top five percent of companies assessed; a highlight of Stoelzle's commitment to decarbonization, continuous innovation and environmental protection.

Eurofragance details its progress in its sustainable development report

Eurofragance

Spanish international composing house Eurofragance has published its 2023 sustainability report following its recent EcoVadis platinum rating. It shows significant progress, particularly in reducing direct emissions and water consumption.

Eurofragance's sustainable development actions focus on four main areas: safety throughout the value chain, commitment to the community, resource management and ethical business practices with our partners.

With the aim of reducing its environmental footprint while improving its positive social impact, last year the multinational took on new sustainability challenges, while increasing its sales by 20 %. "We have been able to increase our profitability by combining an ambitious market strategy with complex environmental and social responsibility objectives."says CEO Laurent Mercier.

Respect for people...

In its report, Eurofragance highlights several initiatives aimed at supporting its employees. For example, its "Workplace Flexibility and Well-being Program", which called on the services of an external psychologist, or its "Continuous Learning Plan" aimed at developing cross-functional skills in departments and subsidiaries, have been rolled out across all regions.

Gender parity in the workforce: Eurofragance emphasizes that its workforce is balanced (52 % women, 48 % men) and highlights an overall policy of fair wages. Women are well represented in management and executive positions.

The company has focused much of its efforts on "health and safety at work" (for its own employees) and on "customer health and safety", from suppliers to consumers. Its accident rate remains lower than the industry average.

... and resources

Eurofragance has created several indicators to measure its ESG achievements. These focus mainly on reducing resource use and waste production, while increasing recycling and reuse rates.

Hand in hand with our partners

Between 2021 and 2023, the company reduced its water consumption by 16 % and last year its direct emissions by 31 %. At the same time, it has reduced its use of plastic by reusing wooden pallets for 78 % of its European shipments and replacing single-use pipettes with glass cannulas in its laboratories.

Other resource-oriented measures include recycling outsourced mouillettes (strips of spray paper used to test fragrances) and turning them into notebooks, as well as electrifying the company's car fleet and increasing the efficiency of its solar panels.

"We are working closely with our partners to, together, ensure that we can address the UN's SDGs that apply to our industry. This covers actions relating to the environment, business ethics and good governance."says Diana March, Chief Sustainability & Technical Compliance Officer at Eurofragance, whose responsibilities include publishing the company's annual sustainability report. 

In particular, the report shows that 44 % of the Spanish perfume house's main suppliers are members of Sedex, an organization focused on managing sustainable practices along supply chains; 91 % have a code of ethics and 66 % of supplier partners have signed Eurofragance's code of ethics, representing 88 % of the company's purchasing value.

"For us in the fragrance industry, sourcing is the area that has the greatest impact on sustainable development. We are committed to continuing to work with our suppliers and partners to promote a more sustainable planet."Diana March continues.

Photo from the Eurofragance presentation video.

Danish group Matas chooses Superga Beauty's Paris full-service division 

Flora Danica - Superga Beauty

As an industrial partner to its brands, Superga Beauty boasts full-service expertise, with a 360° offer ranging from development to the supply chain. Called upon by the Danish Matas group for its new range of eaux de parfum, the company masters all stages of production, from design to manufacture and filling.

The juice for Matas' new collection, Flora Danica Parfums, was manufactured at Superga Beauty's Cosmeurop plant, and packaged at BPS Fragrances.

Wooden hoods

Each Flora Danica fragrance is vegan, refillable, and composed of up to 92 % of ingredients of natural origin. Fragrance caps made from ash wood are an elegant, eco-friendly alternative to traditional plastic or metal caps for perfume bottles. For this range, aesthetics and design reveal a natural, authentic aspect while adding a dimension of luxury and sophistication.

Seducing both men and women

Inspired by the iconic Flora Danica encyclopedia, commissioned by King Frederik V of Denmark in 1752 to enlighten people about the diversity of flowers and plants in Denmark, the Flora Danica collection combines Danish heritage and contemporary French vision via a palette of four fragrances:

  • Soul Garden: an immersion in a wild garden in the rain, combining the freshness of flowers with the warmth of a Nordic interior.
  • Flower Muse: a modern, joyful interpretation of flowering, evoking the fresh northern air and flora of Denmark.
  • Amber Echo: a memory of late summer, evoking salty skin warmed by the sun after a swim in the sea.
  • 1761: A fragrance that combines dazzling freshness and precious woods, capturing the ambivalence of a new opportunity, blending citrus, spices and sophisticated woody notes.

The fragrances are available in 50 and 100 ml formats and in a 125 ml refill version.

Seppic demonstrates the performance of its Aquaxyl moisturizer on all skin types

Seppic - Aquaxyl - all skin types

Today, consumers are looking for cosmetics that meet the specific needs of their skin type. Inclusivity is now as important a demand as hydration, one of the most sought-after claims for all skin types.

To meet this demand, Seppic has re-explored the potential of its iconic Aquaxyl moisturizer, to demonstrate its performance on phototype 1 to 6 skin types.

Aquaxyl Seppic- Ingredients - Product info

Corneometry and IWL (insensible water loss) measurements of different skin types were compared after eight hours to 30 days of application of a cream containing Aquaxyl 3% or a placebo. According to Seppic, Aquaxyl provides short- and long-term hydration for all skin types.

Aquaxyl is a natural 100% active ingredient1easily biodegradable2 and preservative-free, obtained thanks to a patented sugar technology that respects the principles of green chemistry and uses no solvents. 

This ingredient activates the three key mechanisms of natural hydration: "It reinforces barrier effects, optimizes water reserves and maximizes water circulation in the epidermis. What's more, it demonstrates excellent tolerance for sensitive or irritated skin, eye and gum tolerance, baby care and intimate care".says Seppic.

1. Content of natural origin according to ISO 16 128.
2. According to OECD 301F guidelines.

Citrus Rivera, a colorful fragrance

Citrus Rivera

"With its sunny notes and vibrant energy, Citrus Riviera is an ode to vitality, dynamism and self-improvement."says David Benedek, founder of BDK Parfums, a young Parisian perfume house.

Created with perfumer Ralf Schwieger, Citrus Rivera is rooted in the Mediterranean and refers to its flora and mistral wind. "Citrus Rivera is inspired by this Mediterranean shore, its flowers and citrus fruits. Woven by the Mistral, marine fragrances blossom in the tossing of the waves, impregnated with minerality and salt crystals. A dose of freshness emerges in a bath of citrus fruits and figs gilded by the sun. Then it's on to the hinterland, where tender jasmine, orange blossom and immortelle reveal themselves to the rhythm of the cicadas. These Mediterranean flowers, delicately flavored with eucalyptus, finally take to the sea, guided by the movement of water, to meet patchouli and vetiver. A story of water, citrus and sunshine "explains the perfumer.

A special feature of this creation is the limited edition packaging, illustrated by Édith Carron. " For this limited edition of Citrus Riviera, available at BDK Parfums and La Samaritaine, I chose to collaborate with illustrator Édith Carron. Her unique, poetic style resonates with the aesthetic and sunny atmosphere of the Citrus Riviera fragrance created with perfumer Ralf Schwieger. Her illustrations, right on the fragrance box, stimulate the imagination and perfectly capture the essence of the French Riviera and Cap d'Antibes, where I love to recharge my batteries. The more seasoned of you will recognize in the choice of colors those of the Olympic rings, a nod to this moment of unity that will transcend borders to bring the whole world together".explains David Benedek.

Guerlain teams up with Aptar Beauty for its first alcohol-free fragrance

La Petite Robe Noire L'Eau Rose Guerlain - Aptar Beauty

According to Aptar Beauty, world specialist in dispensing systems, the Sensea prestige fragrance pump offers the greatest spray comfort in the VP4 range, its flagship reference. Its wide angle (60°) delivers a fine, homogeneous mist, according to its designers. Reliable and robust, it features an optimized VP4 motor combined with a high-definition spray insert (HDS). 

Already used for its L'Art & La Matière fragrance collection, Guerlain has chosen this pump for La Petite Robe Noire L'Eau Rose, its first fragrance formulated without alcohol. "At Aptar Beauty, we offer dispensing solutions adapted to the new generation of fragrances, such as the alcohol-free formulations emerging on the market. Sensea offers this perfect balance between quality performance and a pleasant user experience. The combination of Sensea's high-definition spray and gentle diffusion is the ideal choice for the alcohol-free formulated fragrance of Guerlain's La Petite Robe Noire L'Eau Rose."says Anne Dupé, Key Account Manager, Aptar Beauty, EMEA.

For the L'Eau Rose limited edition, Guerlain and Aptar teams worked closely together to offer a sensory experience identical to the original fragrance, while preserving its unique olfactory identity. 

The silver-anodized top sub-assembly (pump and casing) is made in France, at Aptar Beauty's Normandy plant in Le Neubourg (27), as are all Aptar Beauty's standard prestige fragrance dispensing systems. 

Sensea is compatible with water-based or alcohol-free juices, as are the fragrance pumps Inune and Aqua Silk, perfectly in tune with the "clean beauty" trend.

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