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IFF unveils new ingredients at WPC 2024

Ylanganate IFF

IFF and LMR Naturals by IFF (LMR) unveiled three new fragrance ingredients at the World Perfumery Congress (WPC) in Geneva, Switzerland, June 24-27, 2024: Ylanganate, a new fragrance molecule, and LMR's grapefruit and lime oils.  

"IFF has a long history of creating some of the world's most exciting fragrance ingredients.said Ana Paula Mendonça, President, Scent, IFF.. Ylanganate, Grapefruit and Persian Lime oils are examples of thoughtful fragrance design that bring together the best of nature and cutting-edge science."

Ylanganate, a powerful boost for delicate floral fragrances

Ylanganate is IFF's latest fragrance molecule. Complemented by a variety of sunny white floral notes, it offers a gentle complexity and calm sensuality that enhances the performance of fruity, sweet and vanilla-balsamic notes in IFF fragrance formulations. This ingredient presents no risk of discoloration, requires low dosages (below 0.5 %) and is easily biodegradable. According to IFF, it offers excellent performance in fragrances and personal care applications, and lends a sense of naturalness even to synthetic formulations.

"The new Ylanganate molecule is a multi-faceted ingredient, with many facets yet to be discovered, explains Ricardo Moya, Senior Perfumer at IFF. In addition to the primary notes of white flowers and citrus, its notes of red and stone fruits, wintergreen, (...) and spices help create a more authentic base in all fragrance categories."

Purity of grapefruit and lime oils 

CP Pink Mexico FCR LMR grapefruit oil and CP Persian Mexico FCR LMR lime oil are two other new products presented at WPC. These oils are obtained from the highest quality fruit peels using cold-press extraction technology. From farm to harvest to production, LMR cultivates partnerships with producers renowned for the quality of their pure, natural ingredients, guaranteeing the quality, safety and sustainability of all its fragrance solutions.

Photo taken from IFF's LinkedIn page.

900.care: over 5 million plastic bottles saved

900.care

On Earth Day, 900.care announced that it had succeeded in avoiding the use of over 5 million disposable plastic bottles since its launch in 2021.

"Since our inception, 900.care has fixed itself to revolutionize the cosmetics industry by offering innovative, eco-friendly products. Our refillable products and eco-designed packaging have made thousands of consumers aware of the need for more sustainable and responsible consumption. Today, we're delighted to achieve significant figures in France for the respect of our planet. We would like to thank everyone who has chosen to join us and contribute to a cleaner future.enthuses Aymeric Grange, CEO and co-founder of 900.care.

Innovative, more responsible products

The 900.care product range, from deodorants to toothpastes and shower gels, is designed to be refillable and reusable. 

Based on the observation that 90 % of hygiene and cleaning products are made up of water transported throughout the supply chain, the company has decided to supply only the active ingredients of these products, leaving it up to consumers to mix them with tap water at home, in a reusable bottle. It sells small compressed sticks of active ingredients which, once dissolved in water, make it possible to obtain more than 15 different references. 

Each product is formulated with natural ingredients and uncompromising efficacy. 

With this announcement, the company points out that the circular economic model significantly reduces waste.

Textured hair: less dandruff and itching with Apiscalp

site-industries-cosmetiques Three women smiling at the camera, all with curly black hair and white tops. The woman in the middle, wearing a sleeveless top, stands between her short-sleeved friends. The woman on the left leans her head on the shoulder of the woman in the middle, capturing a moment of carefree camaraderie amidst their automotive adventures in the draft.

Croda Beauty Actives (formerly Sederma) has announced that its Apiscalp multifunctional ingredient for scalp beauty and comfort is effective on textured hair. New tests have been carried out to confirm this.

In response to the specific concerns of oily and dry scalps, this active ingredient helps combat dandruff, itching, dryness and hyperseborrhea, controlling the proliferation of local microflora (Malassezia), restore the integrity of the scalp's stratum corneum and regulate epidermal differentiation and desquamation.

According to Croda Beauty Actives, as with untextured hair, Apiscalp reduces scalp itching by 80 % and improves scalp hydration by +43 % after three weeks of application. 

Volunteers with textured hair also saw an improvement in the state of scalp flaking as early as one application, and with an average reduction of 19 %. " This reduction is even greater after three weeks, reaching 63 %, for all volunteers regardless of gender or hair type."says Croda Beauty Actives

Other studies in vivo and in vitro have been carried out to demonstrate its various benefits for the beauty and well-being of the scalp.

Ingredient of plant origin, natural extract fromapium graveolensApiscalp is obtained using a sustainable supercritical CO2 extraction process. It complies with Chinese regulations on cosmetic ingredients and is approved by Cosmos.

Photo : © TréVoy Kelly / Pixabay

Quadpack integrates Texen owner PSB Industries

Quadpack-monomaterial-lipsticks

Spain's Quadpack and France's PSB Industries have announced plans to merge Quadpack and PSB's main subsidiary Texen, bringing the two companies under the umbrella of PSB Industries. 

"There is an extraordinary synergy between the two companies, particularly in terms of the values we share. With passionate and committed teams, a comprehensive service offering, global geographic coverage and critical size, the new group will be able to accelerate the development of its combined expertise and commitment to eco-design, in a stronger position to serve the beauty market, its brands and its consumers. With this transaction, we are strengthening our position as a major player in the transformation of materials and packaging for the make-up, skincare and fragrance markets".said François-Xavier Entremont, Chairman and CEO of PSB Industries.

Additional offers...

The complementary nature of the two companies will enable them to offer an even more complete value proposition. Texen, headquartered in Brion, France, creates customized packaging solutions for the make-up and luxury fragrance markets from its multiple plants in France, Poland, Mexico and the USA. Quadpack, headquartered in Barcelona, provides standard packaging solutions for the luxury make-up and skincare markets. It has plants in Germany and Spain, as well as an extensive sales network in Europe, the United States and Australia.

The two companies are aligned in their commitment to sustainable development and their ambition to lead the ecological transition of the beauty packaging sector.

... and synergies

Initially, the merger does not involve any change in the activities of Quadpack or Texen, which will remain autonomous entities. This will enable both companies to preserve their respective cultures, brand image and strengths, while working to build a stronger group, according to Quadpack. 

In the long term, a growth plan aims to leverage the expertise of both companies, with an emphasis on sustainable transformation. "We are delighted to enter this new phase in our history. This strategic alliance will enable us to grow through access to a global customer base, an expanded industrial footprint and enhanced prospects for innovation and partnership. As family businesses, we share the same vision and common values. Our long-term commitment to social and environmental sustainability and our conscious approach to our business will be the driving force behind our success."said Tim Eaves, co-founder and president of Quadpack.

The transaction is scheduled for completion in September/October 2024. 

The group will post combined sales of around 350 million euros, with an industrial presence in six countries and operational and commercial operations in Asia, Europe and the Americas. It will have over 2,000 employees.

Coptis: 25 years of innovation for the cosmetics industry

Coptis 25 years

Coptis, software publisher for cosmetics laboratories, celebrated its 25th anniversary last spring.

"Our 25-year track record sets us apart as the only player in the industry to benefit from such a wealth of experience, consolidating our leadership position in the field. From the outset, we have remained true to our commitment to innovation, driving transformative change within the cosmetics industry.explains Jonathan Coeur, Deputy Managing Director of Coptis. Our core mission has always been to provide solutions that enable cosmetics laboratories to succeed in an ever-changing industrial landscape, particularly in the creation of sustainable, high-performance products." 

The company's 25th anniversary celebration took place on a boat along the Seine in Paris on April 17. The event commemorated a quarter-century of advances, and reinforced, according to the company "Coptis' commitment to continuing its journey towards providing cutting-edge solutions to the cosmetics industry."

Coptis' digital solutions enable the development of transparent products that meet the strict standards of leading retailers, global regulations and consumer demands.

Coptis Lab PLM, the editor's flagship product, is a cosmetics formulation and regulatory compliance software package that manages the entire development of a cosmetics product, from marketing briefing to regulatory dossier. It enables the cosmetics industry to efficiently manage development projects, reduce time-to-market, improve the quality and reliability of information, and ensure product compliance with current regulations.

To enrich its portfolio of innovations, Coptis has introduced the integration of artificial intelligence into its solution. "Thanks to predictive analytics, our AI R&D program is revolutionizing the traditional approach, assessing the stability of formulas before testing them, saving precious time and resources while promoting greater innovation in cosmetic product development."says Jonathan Coeur.

Dior collaborates with Albéa for its new solid fragrances

Dior Mini miss - Albéa

Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet and Miss Dior Eau de Parfum have been redesigned as solid perfumes for the first time. 

The new Miss Dior Mini Miss solid fragrances feature an innovative alcohol-free formula in a vibrant translucent pink stick.

The melt-in-your-mouth, comfortable texture is contained in a seven-piece package, made from 100 % PP by Albéa's teams at Parigné L'Evêque, the Albéa group's center of excellence for the design and manufacture of perfume caps.

The body of the cap and the mechanism holder have been galvanically decorated. A recyclable sintered steel ballast adds weight to the case, giving it a more luxurious sensory appeal for the consumer. The case is hand-woven by Oriol & Fontanel, specialists in woven packaging and decorative accessories, in a houndstooth jacquard pattern in the Miss Dior colors.

The perfume stick can be applied directly to pulse points, alone or as a complement to the perfume spray.

Deagglomerate and calibrate powders taken from the mass in the form of compact pellets

Nibleur Gericke

As a specialist in solutions for discharge, dosing and mixing projects for the processing of bulk materials, Gericke offers nibblers designed to deagglomerate products or blocks of products that can be very dense.

GNB 530- Industrial processes - Product info

Gericke GNB 530 flickers are used in the chemical, food and mineral industries. They consist of a 3-blade rotor rotating at low speed, and a perforated grid with an opening resembling a cheese grater, between 2 and 25 mm depending on the results required.

They are used to restore the original particle size of powdered products that have set after storage or under the effect of humidity, and to reduce them to the required particle size without generating fines.

The GNB530 offers operators easy access to the internal parts of the equipment for inspection and cleaning. It features a front door for easy removal of the cradle-mounted screen. As an option, the rotor/geared motor assembly can be mounted on rails and extracted from the deagglomeration chamber for fast, thorough cleaning.

The GNB530 can also be fitted with a device that detects any metal-to-metal contact between the rotor and the grate, and stops the equipment instantly to avoid damaging it or contaminating the production line. It can be inserted into a production line or mounted on a mobile skid.

The nibleur is available in the most stringent Atex versions, zone 20 inside and zone 22 outside.

Debut biotech expands partnership with L'Oréal

Debut Biotech

San Diego, California-based biotech company Debut has announced that it has signed an agreement with L'Oréal to develop more than a dozen bio-identical ingredients to replace conventional ingredients currently used in the group's products.

As part of this agreement, Debut will create new biobased ingredients using proprietary advanced biomanufacturing processes that combine fermentation and cell-free technology to replace conventional methods.

The Californian biotech emphasizes that green sciences such as its biotechnological processes are paving the way for a new generation of bioactive cosmetic ingredients and products that combine the best of nature with supply chain transparency, safety, purity, consistency, quality and scientific data.

"Creating bio-identical ingredients on a large scale preserves global biodiversity and ensures responsible ingredient supply chains while continuing to prioritize product quality and performance.said the founder and CEO of the young American company. Debut is committed to creating bio-based formulations for all its beauty products and has unrivalled biotechnology, formulation and scale-up capabilities to catalyze this transformative change in beauty."

Debut's biotechnological processes pave the way for a new generation of bioactive cosmetic ingredients and products that combine the best of nature with supply chain transparency, safety, purity, consistency, quality and scientific data.

"Thanks to this exciting partnership and the adoption of groundbreaking technology, we are well placed to foster the creation of more sustainable and efficient products that meet the demands of our consumers and fulfill our duty to protect the planet.said Guive Balooch, Global Managing Director of Augmented Beauty and Open Innovation at L'Oréal Groupe. This long-term agreement with Debut is another example of our commitment to the Open Innovation ecosystem and to building the future of beauty by collaborating with the best partners."

Joshua Britton continues: "Our mission is to lead the way in biotechnology. We create value throughout the supply chain, ensuring that Debut's bio-identical and novel ingredients and products meet the huge global market demand for next-generation sustainable beauty. The beauty industry will be transformed, for the greater good of people and the planet."

Debut is a portfolio company of Bold, L'Oréal's venture capital fund.

Photo: Joshua Britton, founder and CEO of Debut, Ph.D.

Groupe Rocher enters into exclusive negotiations with Arcade Beauty for its Ploërmel plant

Groupe Rocher Ploermel

On September 25, the Rocher group - which employs over 15,000 people in France and abroad - announced plans to sell its perfume production site in Ploërmel.

Following discussions with a number of potential buyers, the group has decided to enter into exclusive negotiations with Arcade Beauty, an American specialist in sample manufacturing.

Groupe Rocher - which manages nine brands including Yves Rocher, Petit Bateau and Arbonne - states that the exchanges are motivated by a shared desire to guarantee production of the group's current volumes, the acquisition of all facilities at the Ploërmel site, and the recovery of jobs.

Negotiations are based on a five-year exclusive production agreement for the Group's existing volumes, thus ensuring the stability and continuity of business at Ploërmel. 

"The exclusive negotiations we are conducting with Arcade Beauty are a very promising first step towards the takeover of the Ploërmel site and all its jobs. I would like to thank our teams for their commitment, determination and confidence. We are working with the buyer, with whom we share a vision for the future of the site and common values, to create the conditions for a successful transition".says Vincent Taglioni, Group Operations Director.

"With its industrial capacity and know-how, the Ploërmel site is exactly what we were looking for to expand our product offering and pursue our commercial development. All our teams are mobilized to finalize negotiations with Groupe Rocher, with a view to preserving production and jobs at the site. I am convinced that Ploërmel will be one of our group's industrial flagships in the very near future.says Carl Allain, CEO and President of Arcade Beauty.

A global specialist in sampling solutions, Arcade Beauty also offers a full-service offering, and is a trusted partner for Groupe Rocher. Based in New York, it operates 11 production plants worldwide, including five in Europe.

A photo posted on Twitter that became X by the Rocher group in 2022.

SGS acquires cosmetics testing laboratory IEC

Facial care

Geneva-based SGS, a global specialist in testing, inspection and certification, has signed an agreement to acquire IEC (Institut d'Expertise Clinique).

A French family-owned group founded in 1990, IEC conducts clinical trials to assess safety and efficacy, as well as to test the effectiveness of its products. in vitrosensory analysis studies, as well as consumer tests. These tests are carried out for dermatological and ophthalmological products in the cosmetics, pharmaceutical and chemical sectors. The group - which employs over 150 people - is present in Europe, Asia and Africa, serving an international clientele of some of the world's most prestigious brands.

Completion of the acquisition remains subject to the usual conditions precedent, including employee consultation in France.

"Joining SGS, a leader in our sector, is a fantastic opportunity for IEC. It will help us to better serve our customers by leveraging the many synergies offered by such a global player, whether in terms of innovation, marketing, operational excellence or international expansion. We look forward to joining such a powerful network.said IEC Chairman Etienne Camel.

"We are delighted to welcome IEC and its talented teams to SGS. This acquisition is aligned with our strategic objectives and further strengthens our global leadership in cosmetics and hygiene testing. IEC brings SGS innovative capabilities and strong scientific expertise, as well as a complementary geographic footprint and service offering."said Géraldine Picaud, CEO of SGS.

SGS is a multi-sector group with almost 100,000 employees and a network of over 2,600 offices and laboratories worldwide.

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