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Symrise announces opening of Barcelona design office

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Symrise, a specialist in flavors and fragrances, has opened a creative office in Barcelona, Spain, to innovate and co-create with its customers in the fields of fragrances and cosmetic ingredients.

Located in the heart of the city, the new office has been carefully designed to foster close collaboration between colleagues and with customers, providing an inspiring space for the creation of innovative solutions that meet the needs of customers, brands and consumers.

The 600 m² space, designed in the image of Symrise and Barcelona, is a response to the rapid expansion of the company's Scent & Care division in the cosmetic ingredients market.

"The opening of this office marks an important and exciting milestone for Symrise Scent & Care.explains Timothy Kenny, President of Cosmetic Ingredients at Symrise. As a leader in the cosmetic ingredients industry, we are committed to being very close to our customers, understanding their needs and providing solutions that add value to their business in today's dynamic markets. We look forward to seizing the opportunities offered by our new creative center in Barcelona. It will strengthen collaboration and enable high-quality innovation tailored to evolving customer demands."

Photo: Timothy Kenny, President Cosmetic Ingredients, Montserrat Delor, Sales Director for Spain and Portugal, Karim LISI, Vice President Sales Fragrances and Oral Care Southern Europe, Ricardo Omori, Global President Fragrance Division, all Symrise members..

Groupe Rocher to sell its Ploërmel plant and its Turkish brand Flormar 

site-industries-cosmetiques Shown here is a loose powder container from the Turkish brand Flormar. The lid is black and bears the brand name "flormar" and the words "Loose Powder". The powder, linked to Groupe Rocher, is a light beige color, visible through the transparent part of the container.

Groupe Rocher has announced the finalization of the sale of its perfume manufacturing plant in Ploërmel (56) and that of its Flormar brand, present on the make-up market in Turkey.

The sale of the Ploërmel plant was announced for June 2024. Exclusive negotiations with Arcade Beauty, a specialist in the manufacture of product sampling and packaging solutions for the perfumery and cosmetics industries, have resulted in the signature of a sale agreement guaranteeing the development of business at the Ploërmel site, a historic site for the Rocher group.

Groupe Rocher fragrances will continue to be produced at the site for at least five years, and all teams have been taken over by Arcade Beauty.

Some 10 million additional units will be brought to the site by Arcade Beauty over the next two years, and the company plans to increase activity still further in subsequent years.

Arcade Beauty is also planning further investments over the coming months.

The sale was made possible with the help of KPMG Deal Advisory Services, LBMB Notaires and LMT Avocats.

Groupe Rocher also announced that it had completed the sale of the Turkish Flormar brand to a consortium of three Turkish investors - Esas Private Equity, Tacirler Asset Management PE Fund I, and Credia Partners. This sale, announced in May 2024, was made possible thanks to the support of KPMG Deal Advisory Services, BNP Paribas, and the Istanbul office of Gide, Loyrette Nouel.

"We are fiers of how far we have come with Flormar. I would like to extend my warmest thanks to all our teams, who have done an outstanding job over the last few years. In just 3 years, and since the Group took full control of Flormar, the brand has indeed confirmed its position as market leader in Turkey, with a five-point gain in market share. Groupe Rocher has every confidence in the consortium of investors acquiring the brand, which will be perfectly able to pursue and support its development, particularly internationally."says Bris Rocher, Chairman of the Rocher Group.

The Breton group thus intends to free up resources to invest further in its development in Asia, a strategic region for its growth.

Present in over 100 countries, the Rocher group - which employs nearly 14,000 people - has eight brands (Yves Rocher, Arbonne, Petit Bateau, Stanhome, Kiotis, Dr Pierre Ricaud, ID Parfums, and Sabon). Its 2023 sales totaled 2.2 billion euros.

Photo taken from the Flormar website.

Glass stoppers: luxury without compromise

layer_wellness_tones_seasidesunset Kopie

The Heinz-Glas group has announced that its innovative glass closure for high-end perfumery and cosmetics products is now an integral part of its standard range. 

While plastic closures continue to play an important role, this glass cap offers an elegant alternative that enhances the luxurious look of products by bringing the aesthetic and functional advantages of glass, already widely used for bottles and jars, to the closure.

"Our glass closure is more than just a functional component: it's a statement of quality and style. As part of our standard range, it is now easily accessible to our customers".says Heinz-Glas.

As many decoration options as for bottles

The advantages of this cap are manifold, thanks to high-quality materials and advanced decoration techniques.

All the sophisticated decoration options offered on bottles can be considered for glass stoppers: exclusive coatings, prints, metallization and customized designs. According to the manufacturer, each stopper can be transformed into a unique element that perfectly complements the overall look of its cliebts' products.

Cosmetic 360 Awards: the nominees are in!

Cosmetic 360 Awards 2024

The 10th anniversary edition of the Cosmetic 360 international trade show will be held on October 16 and 17, 2024 at the Carrousel du Louvre in Paris.

On this occasion, the Cosmetic 360 Awards 2024 will recognize exhibitors' innovations in six categories corresponding to the show's six "innovation" paths: Raw Materials, Formulation, Testing & analysis, Packaging & packing, Brands & retail and Manufacturing process.

A special "Coup de Coeur du Jury" prize will also be awarded to the best "longevity-durability" innovation, the key theme of the 2024 edition of Cosmetic 360.

Among 350 innovations, three products were chosen in each of the six categories by a jury of journalists from the French and international trade press. Each exhibitor presented their Innovation Totem, describing a recent innovation in their business. The clarity of the totem, its innovative value, its relevance to the cosmetics market, and its contribution to the ecological transition were all analyzed by the jury.

All the winners - one in each category - will be announced at a ceremony at the show on Wednesday October 16 at 4:30 pm.

The nominees are :

In the Raw Materials category

  • INdermal (Spain) - Exo FDS FolliXield for hair regeneration. Reinforce hair regeneration with active ingredients encapsulated in exosomes for targeted, enhanced efficacy.
  • LipoTrue (Spain) - Biomimetic fragment of human fibrillin-1. Biomimetic fragment of human fibrillin-1 produced in plants by vertical culture.
  • Seprify (Switzerland) - Complexion-perfecting cellulose technology. The plant-derived cellulose ingredient replaces titanium dioxide, offering whiteness, UV reinforcement, soft focus and smooth textures.

In the Formulation category

  • ABC Texture (France) - 3D-printed cosmetics. Giving beauty a new dimension with a futuristic recessed design for an innovative, airy texture.
  • Experis (France) - Helical emulsion technology. Emulsion technology creates a fine matrix that is highly sensorial, natural and multifunctional.
  • Global Beauty Consulting (France) - A beauty sponge... in foundation. Foundation is itself a sponge, the formula becoming its own applicator.

In the Testing & analysis category

  • Transderma systems (France) - Testing the nourishing properties of hair care products. Effectively validate the presence of the nourishing product in the hair's internal structure.
  • NetrI (France) - Neurons as biodigital sensors. Functional digitization of human skin using neural signals as biosensors to predict clinical responses with AI.
  • Revivo BioSystems (Singapore) - Chronological aging with the 4D skin model. Aging model in vitro Proven 4D technology reproduces the natural aging of the skin, transforming the way we study skin aging.

In the Packaging & packing category

  • Nexdot (France) - UvLtimate - Quantum Dots. A UV-absorbing clearcoat for more environmentally-friendly fragrances.
  • CEP Cosmétique (France) - All-plastic airless solution. Cepairless is an entirely recyclable pump, as sensitive to pressure as the best metal/plastic pumps (dosage of 0.16 ml).
  • BR Conditionnement (France) - Niugreen: ecological dry cleaning of glass. Glass bottle cleaning solution using supercritical CO2, guaranteeing performance while preserving the integrity of the container and printing.

In the Brands & retail category

  • Amoi (France) - Mood-boosting neurolfactory scents. French mood-boosting, neuro-approved fragrances to elevate emotions: joy, relaxation, concentration, energy.
  • NeoCosm (France) - Enhanced bulk sales. Concentrated forms with gel, emulsion or paste textures at the point of sale, fast and automated.
  • Byome Labs (France) - Recommending products based on the microbiome. Measures the skin's microbiome and recommends ultrapersonalized beauty routines to respect customers' skin.

In the Manufacturing process category

  • Alga Biologics (France) - Microalgae, a sustainable biofactory. Improving the environmental footprint of protein-based actives through blue biotechnology.
  • Biocorium (France) - Pioneer in natural bioactive processes. Innovative biotechnology with a microbiotic factory to maximize the efficacy and bioavailability of plant compounds.
  • Arboretum Ingredients (France) - Ultrasonic extraction process. A patented, environmentally-friendly extraction process using ultrasonic equipment and tree sap as natural Nades.

TNT Group confirms its diversification into primary packaging for luxury skincare products

TNT Group - Formes de Luxe Awards

The rotary applicator for N°1 de Chanel Sérum Yeux Revitalisant and the refillable packaging with removable ball from Westman Atelier, two patented concepts, received the Formes de Luxe awards respectively for the categories applicators and Refill & Reload on the occasion of the Luxe Pack trade show held in Monaco from September 30 to October 3, 2024.

These awards recognize TNT Group's innovation, and confirm its diversification into primary packaging for luxury skincare products. 

Historically recognized for its expertise in metal (zamak, aluminum), which was mainly expressed in the production of unusual niche perfume caps, TNT Group had established itself on lipstick and make-up packaging projects, demonstrating its ability to work with all types of materials. The Group continues to pursue its strategy of bringing its customers' projects to life, across all product segments. 

What all the projects entrusted to the company have in common is their complexity. "Since its creation 11 years ago, TNT Group has enjoyed strong growth, generated by a winning combination of a dynamic niche perfume market and our engineering know-how, the heart of TNT Group's reactor, explains Thomas Diezinger, co-founder. To pursue this growth, it was crucial for us to complete our offer in the luxury make-up and skincare segments, knowing that our specific positioning and technical expertise lead us to cooperate on very high value-added projects. We are very grateful to Chanel and Westman Atelier for believing in us.  

TNT Group designed the massage accessory that accompanies Sisley's Supremÿa La Nuit Le Grand Soin Yeux Anti-Âge, the spatula for Chanel's Sublimage skincare, and the packaging for Sisley's RALs and balms, some of which are refillable. Jimmy Choo, Guerlain and Louboutin have also entrusted the design of packaging for their make-up lines to TNT Group. The development of packaging designed to hold and apply a precious skincare formula is a further step in this direction.

 " Beyond our technical expertise, we rely on our values, as well as the stability and commitment of our teams around the world. Our growth has been sustained since our creation in 2013. Our challenge is to consolidate what we have built together, with the trust of our brands, by continuing to structure our business and skilfully reconciling the enthusiasm that characterizes us with the maturity we have acquired. "concludes Toby Cattermole, the other founder of the group based in Hong Kong, New York, Paris and Shanghai.

Decarbonizing the glass industry: a roadmap to meet ambitious targets

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The Fédération des chambres syndicales des industries du verre (Federation of Glass Industry Trade Unions) represents the glass industries in France in the packaging, flat glass, beverageware, insulation, fiber and technical glass sectors. It brings together the CSVMF (French mechanical glassmakers' association), the CSFVP (French flat glass manufacturers' association) and the CSFVP (French technical glassmakers' association). According to the association, total emissions from the glass industry represent 2.7 million tonnes of CO2, i.e. 3 % of industrial CO2 emissions in France and 0.6 % of total French emissions. Some 80 % of the sector's emissions are linked to the use of fossil fuels (mainly natural gas), mainly used to melt glass, and 20 % are so-called process emissions, linked to the decarbonation of raw materials (mainly soda ash and lime carbonate). 

The glass industry has thus implemented a proactive decarbonization strategy through a roadmap whose main levers are the use of decarbonized energies (electricity, biomethane, etc.), the use of decarbonized raw materials, improved process energy efficiency, glass recycling and product eco-design.

"Glass, omnipresent in our daily lives, fits perfectly into the logic of a sustainable world. The glass industry's transition to a low-carbon world is underway. Glassmakers are committing and investing now in actions and projects to decarbonize their production", says Jacques Bordat, President of the French Federation of Glass Industries.

Use of low-carbon energies

The energy required for continuous-fired glass production (raw materials at a temperature of around 1300°C to 1400°C) is mainly provided by natural gas and electricity. Across the plant, 75 % of the energy consumed comes from natural gas and 20 % from electricity. 

The industry is therefore actively working to diversify its energy mix and move as far as possible towards the use of decarbonized energies, with the ultimate aim of eliminating greenhouse gas-emitting fossil fuels. 

Electrification of furnaces and processes is therefore the major path to decarbonization, according to the glass industry federation. By replacing natural gas with decarbonated electricity, the glass industry will evolve from a gas-intensive to an electro-intensive industry. 

Depending on furnace size and the type of glass to be processed, either 100 % electric furnaces, or hybrid electric/gas furnaces with a proportion of 80 % electric and 20 % gas should be built. In addition to electrification, residual fossil natural gas will gradually be replaced by biogas, in particular biomethane.

Highly electrified, hybrid electric/gas furnaces are particularly well suited to large-scale furnaces (food packaging and flat glass), and are therefore clearly at the heart of the glass industry's decarbonization strategy.

This reflection on hybrid furnaces had been initiated as part of a collective European project entitled " Furnace for the Future "supported by Feve (European Container Glass Federation). Projects for large-capacity hybrid industrial furnaces (80% electric and 20 % gas) (350 tonnes of glass per day), able to accept a high rate of cullet, have emerged in Europe. Several investments in hybrid furnaces have been announced in Germany, Spain and France. The first hybrid furnace in Germany went into industrial production in 2024. Saverglass' Tourres & Cie site in Le Havre, France, will be equipped with an 80 % electrified hybrid furnace by 2027.

Improving container glass collection and speeding up flat glass collection

A pioneer in recycling, glass is 100 % recyclable ad infinitum, and its recycling rate is rising steadily, reaching 77.9 % in 2021 according to Ademe (88 % for household packaging). For almost 50 years, glass packaging has been collected and recycled to be transformed into new glass bottles, jars and jars. Glass sorted for recycling (cullet) has become the main raw material for glassmakers, accounting for almost 65 % of raw materials. The massive use of cullet saves the energy needed to melt glass and limits the use of natural resources. Glass recycling is also a major lever for decarbonizing glass packaging production. One tonne of recycled glass avoids 500 kg of CO2 emissions.

A new challenge is the collection and recycling of glass from construction waste, where the deposit of flat glass is estimated at 200,000 tonnes, with a low collection rate to date. The introduction in 2023 of the PMCB EPR (Extended Producer Responsibility - building products and materials) should enable rapid progress to be made, thanks to the implementation of an efficient collection system that is well meshed throughout the region.

Photo: Nika Suchá / Pixabay

With its new magnet-free cans, Procos shines the spotlight on packaging innovation

Procos_SUNSHBOX

At Luxe Pack Monaco 2024, Procos, a German manufacturer of high-end packaging, unveils new folding cartons featuring a magnet-free closure.

The Sunshine Box and its lighter variant, the Sunshine Light Box, renew the Yoga Box and its lighter version Yoga Light created by Procos in 2020, with an eco-responsible approach based on lightness, material savings and the absence of magnets.

The two new box models from Procos are both made of cardboard, including a lighter corrugated cardboard for the Sunshine Light Box. What sets them apart is their closing system.

The paper tab found on the Yoga Box and Yoga Light now has an alternative. For its 2024 box versions, Procos has optimized its single-material closure system for even smoother, easier handling, and an ever more elegant design. The system, which is totally invisible from the outside, consists of an ingenious notch configuration on the front wall inside the can, combined with a button with a bevel that attaches to it. The closing click and resistance of a magnetized button remain!

The Sunshine Box and its light version also feature a tray for products, held in place by two Tencel ribbons.

Pure Trade creates a packaging division to accelerate growth

Pure Trade - Clarins product

When it acquired a stake in Pure Trade in July 2023, the Agic Capital investment fund announced its intention to accelerate the growth of the company, a partner to luxury cosmetics and fragrance brands whose sales target is to exceed 100 million euros by 2025. 

As part of its development drive, the management team has just created a dedicated packaging division in Paris, which exclusively handles primary, secondary and promotional packaging projects in all materials, with the aim of offering an expert, comprehensive, qualitative and responsive response.

Pure Trade - Virginie Honoré and Florence Dancoisne

"This organization meets the needs of Pure Trade's customers, who are themselves structured by business line, explains Virginie Honoré. Strong growth in recent years has led our teams to develop their skills in the group's various activities: packaging, accessories, luggage, textiles & SPA offers. The packaging business, which encompasses primary, secondary and promotional multi-material packaging, requires a dedicated team of experts. We have therefore created a 100 % packaging division and entrusted its management to Florence Dancoisne."

This newly-created entity will be the flagship of Pure Trade's growth, supported by its luggage, accessories, textile and SPA activities.

Florence Dancoisne has over 30 years' experience in the luxury packaging and beauty sectors. She joined Pure Trade's Paris head office in June 2024, having recently relocated to Neuilly-sur-Seine (92), where she has become an integral part of the group's dynamic packaging team, benefiting from the recognition of Pure Trade's long-standing partners, for whom continuity is essential.

"Pure Trade has long since earned its legitimacy among the great international names in beauty, says Florence Dancoisne. This new division concentrates the Group's expertise in primary, secondary and promotional packaging, in all regions of the world. Pure Trade's resources in innovation, engineering, sourcing of new materials and production are equal to the challenge we face for and by our customers".

Florence Dancoisne says she appreciates Pure Trade's sense of service, the durability of its partnerships, the quality of its projects and follow-up, and its competitiveness. "In our extremely demanding world, it is essential to provide solutions that meet the criteria of luxury, quality and competitiveness. Added to this is Pure Trade's commitment to CSR, whose actions have earned it EcoVadis Platinum certification once again".she adds. 

Intended to operate autonomously, the packaging division will work closely with the Group's other activities for brands that are sensitive to full-service solutions.

Launch of the new Lancôme mascara: created by Texen

Hypnose Drama Mascara - Lancôme

Designed in collaboration with L'Oréal, Hypnose Drama mascara was manufactured using the Texen group's Smart Mascara line. This project represents the group's production expertise, integrating the latest technologies in injection, decoration with hot stamping, varnishing and in-line assembly.

Innovation and technical challenges

The result of collaboration between engravers, molders from the Texen group and the L'Oréal team, this mascara meets Lancôme's specific requirements. A successful achievement despite the many technical constraints encountered, in particular the texturing (strokes) on the cap and bottle.

One of the main technical challenges was to ensure the quality and aesthetic appeal of the engraving. This challenge was made all the more demanding by the need to achieve identical engraving using two distinct processes: injection molding for the cap and injection-blow molding for the bottle.

Mastering the finishing steps 

Varnishing also played a crucial role, as textures can trap air and dust, resulting in uneven varnish distribution. Rigorous work was carried out to validate the texturing with the varnish, ensuring repeatability of the process and a consistent visual effect. Hot stamping presented an additional challenge. Thanks to their expertise, the teams were able to fine-tune the settings to ensure that the hot stamping perfectly followed the curvature of the shape, guaranteeing uniform stamping.

The project also required precision in the indexing of the components, a challenge successfully met thanks to the expertise of the Texen Group teams combined with that of their mold-making partners. The engraving had to be accurately positioned in the mold and correctly indexed during assembly to guarantee perfect alignment. 

Ecodesign

Designed in monomaterial and recycled material, except for the brush and wiper, this luxury mascara is made entirely of PP (polypropylene), a significant step towards the mascara of tomorrow, according to its designers.

"This innovation proves that eco-design can also be applied to luxury products. This fully integrated line (from injection to varnishing) reduces transport, thus reducing the group's carbon footprint, while increasing the speed and agility at the service of l'Oréal", says Texen.

Premium glass and metal packaging for liquid make-up formulas

KALI x PURE METAL

Axilone, a specialist in plastic injection and aluminum transformation for luxury cosmetics, and Verescence, a specialist in luxury flaconnage, announce the co-development of a turnkey packaging solution, ready to meet market needs for liquid make-up formulas. The 7.5-ml solution combines glass and aluminum.

Sustainable materials

Ready to hold a range of highly sought-after liquid formulas - liquid lipsticks, lip oils, glosses, eyeshadows and liquid blushes - the solution from Axilone and Verescence is distinguished by its assembly of premium materials. It combines the Kali bottle, made by Verescence in lightweight glass (Glass Score A) and incorporating 20 % of PCR (post-consumer recycled glass), with a "Pure metal" 100 % aluminum cap and stem made by Axilone. 

The combination of glass and aluminum ensures complete recyclability and a high-end perception that meets the demands of luxury brands.

A fully customizable and differentiating product

Each component - from the glass bottle to the aluminum cap to the tigelle or applicator - can be decorated as desired, according to the brand's desired range universe. The cylindrical bottle can be custom-decorated by lacquering, hot stamping, silk-screening or adding labels, while the cap can be precisely shaped to create distinctive reliefs and patterns. The tigelle can also be engraved for even greater personalization.

With this combination of glass and aluminum, Axilone and Verescence aim to offer a solution that combines durability, flexibility and elegance. Brands benefit from a premium product that offers a response to environmental commitments, while allowing advanced customization, ensuring maximum differentiation on the market.

"The Kali bottle and its "Pure metal" cap have been designed for brands wishing to project a high-end, eco-responsible image for their make-up products. The sensory experience provided by glass and aluminum is unrivalled. The cool touch and shine of these two materials enhance the perceived quality of the product for consumers".says Bérangère Raguenet, Marketing and Communications Director at Verescence.

"As a packaging solutions provider, it's our role to offer solutions that respond to market trends, and to support brands in optimizing the lifecycle of their packaging. Offering a joint glass/aluminum option is a highly relevant proposal for more sustainable luxury. In fact, we're currently working on reinforcing the eco-design dimension of this full-aluminum concept, by adding PCR recycled aluminum to its recyclability".says Lucie Ray-Lalanne, Marketing and Communications Director at Axilone.

The solution will be presented exclusively on the Axilone stand - Hall Ravel stand RD8 RE5 at Luxe Pack Monaco 2024.

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