At in-cosmetics Global, to be held in Paris from April 16 to 18, 2024, Roquette Beauté will unveil Beauté by Roquette ST 730 (Inci Hydroxypropyl Starch) to the cosmetics industry. This new ingredient responds to growing consumer demand for plant-derived cosmetics that combine sustainability and clinically proven efficacy in their skincare and make-up products.

Peas: a sustainable resource

Beauté by Roquette ST 730 is derived from pea starch, a sustainable and attractive crop with minimal impact on water resources, climate change and land use. In line with Roquette's circular production model, the company uses nearly 100 % of yellow pea grain components, contributing to a positive environmental footprint.

Superior water resistance to synthetic film-formers

Roquette Beauté reminds us that, in make-up applications, long wear and water resistance are key benefits. Worldwide, more than half of make-up consumers say they prefer a product with long-lasting properties.¹ at the time of purchase.

In various studies, Beauté by Roquette ST 730 at 5 % has shown, according to Roquette Beauté, superior water resistance to market reference film-forming agents such as pullulan and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), at the same concentration.

Reduced wrinkles

Another sought-after quality: tensor effects in eye and face care products, as consumers look for visible results in these delicate, wrinkle-prone areas.

A study in vivo² was carried out on 40 volunteers to analyze the tightening effect of the new ingredient. According to Roquette Beauté, Beauté by Roquette ST 730 at 4 % significantly reduces fine lines and wrinkles. A large majority of subjects (82 %) reported that their fine lines and wrinkles were reduced.

"We are very proud of the addition of Beauté by Roquette ST 730 to our product range, says Bénédicte Courel, General Manager of Roquette Beauté. Consumers are keen to make their skincare and make-up routines more sustainable, replacing synthetic or controversial ingredients with plant-based alternatives, without compromising on efficacy or benefits. Beauté by Roquette ST 730 is a game-changer for cosmetics brands wishing to incorporate plant-based ingredients into their formulations while delivering a visible tightening effect to consumers."

_{1. Kantar Profiles/Mintel, April 2023, June 2023; KuRunData/Mintel, May 2023.}

_{2. Beauté by Roquette ST 730 was evaluated at 4 % and compared to a placebo. Skin relief parameters were measured on 40 volunteers (aged 45 to 65), in a single application, using the 3D Primos Lite (LMI Technologies).}

For its large-scale plant project, Global Bioenergies, an industrial biology player, announces that it has received letters of intent representing over 2,500 tonnes of Isonaturane per year from cosmetics players based in several regions of the world. These purchase intentions represent annual sales of over 70 million euros.

From 2027, this plant, mainly dedicated to cosmetics, will market Isonaturane 12 and 16, natural equivalents to petroleum-based isododecane and isohexadecane. Limited to 2,500 tonnes of elements produced, the new site will be smaller than planned in order to concentrate on the most profitable markets: make-up and prestige skincare products. 

"We had initially wanted to increase the plant's capacity to 10,000 tonnes, which would have meant addressing markets such as make-up remover and deodorant. These mass markets require large volumes at low cost, which would inevitably have driven down our selling prices. By limiting the size of the plant, we reduce the amount of Capex required to build it, and target markets willing to pay the best price for naturalness. The plant's economic profile maintains its margin prospects while reducing the investment required, with purchasing intentions now exceeding the plant's capacity and projected annual sales of over €70 million."explains Marc Delcourt, co-founder and CEO of Global Bioenergies.

In addition to cosmetics, the plant is intended to launch the market for sustainable aviation fuels (SAF), using the same technology to produce a formulation that can be used perfectly as an aviation fuel, blending up to 50 % with fossil kerosene. Global Bioenergies' process is one of the few in the world to benefit from the necessary ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials) certification. The company plans to deploy its process on a large scale in the aviation sector from the opening of the market in 2030, when the threshold for incorporating DAC into kerosene will rise to 6 % in the European Union.

The first plans for the plant have been finalized. Five areas will be formalized in the plant: isobutene production by fermentation, isobutene purification, conversion to isododecane and isohexadecane, effluent and energy management. The French government has already announced its support for the project at the end of 2023, with the award of €16.4 million in public aid via the Première usine call for projects led by Bpifrance as part of the France 2030 plan. The total cost of building the plant has been estimated at nearly 80 million euros. 

_{Photo: Aesthetic Journey / Pixabay}

The French group Robertet, a global supplier of natural products, has announced its collaboration with the Italian company Aethera Biotech, specialized in the development of active ingredients in the field of biotechnological phytocomplexes. 

Between nature and biotechnology

The two family businesses aim to "redefining standards of the plant-derived active ingredients industry, drawing on advances in biotechnology to produce sustainable plant-derived ingredients. 

Robertet, a pioneer in the extraction of natural ingredients, uses environmentally-friendly processes and green chemistry to create its active ingredients, including Superoxide Dismutase SOD B, a powerful antioxidant extracted from a unique variety of melon. This innovation has led to the launch of Extramel, Dimpless, Holimel and Melorun, each ingredient providing benefits in different areas. 

With its innovative and sustainable proprietary biotechnology platform based on plant cultures in vitro called Crop (Controlled Release of Optimized Plants), Aethera Biotech, a pioneer in innovative biotechnological phytocomplexes, guarantees 100 % natural ingredients free from environmental contaminants, solvents or preservatives. "This mimetic process of nature enables the sustainable production of high-quality ingredients with proven efficacy, thus promoting "enhanced naturalness".the company says. This approach offers consistency and permanent availability, regardless of the season or geographical boundaries, while guaranteeing a high level of safety and respect for biodiversity."

Through this partnership with Aethera Biotech, Robertet aims to enhance its product offering. In addition, Robertet will gradually become the exclusive distributor of products derived from this patented technology in European countries (with the exception of Italy).

"This collaboration with Aethera Biotech testifies to our strategy of innovation through the pursuit of targeted partnerships. With Aethera, we are reinventing traditional sourcing to meet the market's growing needs for active ingredients, while minimizing our impact on the environment. This alliance between two visionary companies will enable us to reach new heights in the field of augmented naturalness".says Olivier Maubert, Director of Innovation for the Robertet Group, and Director of the Actifs division.

"We are delighted to begin this collaboration, which will focus on different areas of action, combining Aethera Biotech's scientific approach with the know-how of the Robertet group. Our Crop platform will be the booster to study and develop innovative products. We are convinced that this technology has enormous potential yet to be explored, with a dual objective: to obtain standardized, high-quality and effective plant phyto-complexes, and to contribute to the respect of our planet".comments Daniele Baghi, CEO of Aethera Biotech.

An innovative rose extract

Robertet and Aethera will unveil their latest collaboration at the In-Cosmetics trade show in Paris, April 16-18, 2024. Together, they will present a product centered on the rose, the emblematic ingredient of perfumery.

AQ3Rose Crop-G is a patented, standardized biotechnological ingredient derived from Rosa chinensis. By harnessing the power of a fraction of the plant, this formulation produces a potent blend of polysaccharides and phytocollagen. 

According to the two partners, AQ3Rose Crop-G offers unrivalled protection against premature skin ageing through deep hydration that rejuvenates and revitalizes. The ingredient naturally improves skin elasticity and firmness by stimulating the production of new collagen.

With this first joint venture, Robertet and Aethera push back the boundaries of health and beauty, combining naturalness with science.

_{Photo taken from the Robertet website.}

dsm-firmenich, supplier of fragrance ingredients to the food and cosmetics industries, recently announced its partnership with Interstellar Lab, a Franco-American biotech start-up developing bio-agriculture solutions. 

The aim of both companies is to launch an ingredient research program focusing on the impact of environmental conditions on plant performance and phenotype evaluation. Drawing on Interstellar Lab's cutting-edge AI-controlled environment and biotechnology expertise, the partnership aims to reduce agriculture's impact on the climate and preserve biodiversity in critical ecosystems. 

Interstellar Lab specializes in the development and operation of advanced biofarm platforms to accelerate plant growth and trigger the production of specific molecules in plants. Their AI-controlled biofarms optimize energy and resource consumption, capture CO2 and improve ingredient lifecycle assessment through a data-driven approach. 

"Our biofarm platform represents a revolution in the perfumery landscape, understanding and responding to the industry's current needs to provide renewable, responsibly sourced and produced ingredients that inspire designers and respect the environment."said Barbara Belvisi, CEO and founder of Interstellar Lab. 

"At dsm-firmenich, we value natural ingredients and are constantly pushing the boundaries of innovation and sustainability in perfumery. Our partnership with Interstellar Lab represents another avenue of exploration in the field of agrotechnology, expanding our ability to harness the synergy of nature and science, breaking conventions to discover unparalleled excellence in terms of olfactory quality and sustainability for our creations."added Michal Benmayor, Vice-President of Fragrance Innovation and Sustainability at dsm-firmenich. 

"Our commitment to innovation drives us to continually expand the horizons of natural ingredients. By exploring advances in cutting-edge agrotechnology, we're reshaping the landscape of species selection, anticipating production and supply challenges, and prioritizing the highest quality ingredients. This commitment enables us to provide the purest, most authentic natural extracts for perfumery."said Xavier Brochet, Global Head of Natural Innovation at dsm-firmenich.