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dsm-firmenich partners with startup Interstellar Lab

dsm-firmenich - Interstellar Lab

dsm-firmenich, supplier of fragrance ingredients to the food and cosmetics industries, recently announced its partnership with Interstellar Lab, a Franco-American biotech start-up developing bio-agriculture solutions. 

The aim of both companies is to launch an ingredient research program focusing on the impact of environmental conditions on plant performance and phenotype evaluation. Drawing on Interstellar Lab's cutting-edge AI-controlled environment and biotechnology expertise, the partnership aims to reduce agriculture's impact on the climate and preserve biodiversity in critical ecosystems. 

Interstellar Lab specializes in the development and operation of advanced biofarm platforms to accelerate plant growth and trigger the production of specific molecules in plants. Their AI-controlled biofarms optimize energy and resource consumption, capture CO2 and improve ingredient lifecycle assessment through a data-driven approach. 

"Our biofarm platform represents a revolution in the perfumery landscape, understanding and responding to the industry's current needs to provide renewable, responsibly sourced and produced ingredients that inspire designers and respect the environment."said Barbara Belvisi, CEO and founder of Interstellar Lab. 

"At dsm-firmenich, we value natural ingredients and are constantly pushing the boundaries of innovation and sustainability in perfumery. Our partnership with Interstellar Lab represents another avenue of exploration in the field of agrotechnology, expanding our ability to harness the synergy of nature and science, breaking conventions to discover unparalleled excellence in terms of olfactory quality and sustainability for our creations."added Michal Benmayor, Vice-President of Fragrance Innovation and Sustainability at dsm-firmenich. 

"Our commitment to innovation drives us to continually expand the horizons of natural ingredients. By exploring advances in cutting-edge agrotechnology, we're reshaping the landscape of species selection, anticipating production and supply challenges, and prioritizing the highest quality ingredients. This commitment enables us to provide the purest, most authentic natural extracts for perfumery."said Xavier Brochet, Global Head of Natural Innovation at dsm-firmenich.

Clariant completes acquisition of Lucas Meyer Cosmetics

Clariant - Lucas Meyer Cosmetics

Clariant, a Swiss specialty chemicals company focused on sustainable development, announces the completion of the acquisition of Quebec-based Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, a leading supplier of high-value ingredients to the cosmetics and personal care industry, from US group IFF for an enterprise value of $810 million.

"The acquisition of Lucas Meyer Cosmetics is an excellent example of how we are implementing our targeted growth strategy and supporting our goal of accelerating customer-focused innovation and sustainabilitysaid Conrad Keijzer, Managing Director of Clariant. The complementary customer portfolio, product portfolio, and regional strongholds, as well as R&D and marketing capabilities make the combination of Clariant and Lucas Meyer Cosmetics a leading solutions provider for high value-added personal care brands."

"I see the acquisition of Lucas Meyer Cosmetics as a significant step forward for Care Chemicals. Customers and consumers are increasingly demanding high-value natural ingredients.added Christian Vang, President of Clariant's Care Chemicals business unit and of the Americas region. I extend a warm welcome to 190 highly qualified professionals who will become our new colleagues at Clariant. Together we look forward to exciting growth opportunities and plan to increase annual sales to $180 million by 2028, from around $100 million today."

With this acquisition, Clariant shifts its focus to high-growth, high-margin, cash-generative specialty chemicals and consumer end-markets, driven by accelerating demand for natural and sustainable products. Clariant's exposure to the market for active and functional cosmetic ingredients is thus increased. via its Care Chemicals business unit.

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics joined the Care Chemicals business unit on April 2, 2024.

Clariant will be present at in-Cosmetics Global Paris, April 16-18, 2024.

Visual extract from Clariant's Linkedin profile.

Cfia Rennes 2024: a great turnout!

Cfia 2024

Cfia was held from March 12 to 14, 2024 in Rennes. The show enjoyed record attendance, with over 21,500 visitors. 

The 27th edition of Cfia Rennes attracted 21,558 visitors (an increase of 9 % compared to 2023), who came to discover the offerings of some 1,700 exhibitors - a record attendance, according to its organizers! This result is all the more positive in that this year's event saw an expansion of the range of products and services on offer, thanks to some one hundred new exhibitors. 

The highlight of this year's event, and for the first time at Cfia, Agnès Pannier-Runacher, Minister Delegate to the Minister of Agriculture and Food Sovereignty, spoke about the challenges facing the sector. 

The major themes were addressed during this 2024 edition, through the exhibitors' offer, conferences and the show's events. success of this edition.

The show's key elements were numerous:

  • Expanded range and exhibition space with 1,700 exhibitors figures
  • Start-up Village with French Fab and BpiFrance
  • The Cybersecurity Village: innovative solutions and advice to protect against cyber attacks
  • L'Espace Tendances: ingredients from new resources and innovative technologies
  • L'Usine Agro du Futur, which this year focused on water-related tensions, with a stage organized around three major areas, and solutions linked to water conservation in line with the 3Rs approach.

Award-winning companies

With 113 entries for the Cfia trophies, innovation was in the spotlight with a revisited concept.

The 2024 winners:

  • Ingredients & PAI: Firmalis for CanolaPRO
  • Process, Packaging & Equipment: VIF Software (Solution Dataswati by Vif) for Powerop
  • Packaging: Europlastiques for Gook
  • Quality, Health, Safety, Environment: Christeyns Food Hygiene for Loopix
  • The Special CSR Prize, awarded for the 1era Cfia: Foselev Agintis Sas for EcoCIP

Cfia expands! 

The next edition of Cfia is scheduled for March 4-6, 2025, with an expanded offering.

"The show will indeed be expanding, in particular to include under-represented sectors that are in phase with the transitions the food industry is undergoing today and in the years to come, explains event director Sébastien Gillet. Themed areas and new products will focus on the major challenges facing the food industry. We owe the success of such an event to our visitors, exhibitors and partners, without ever losing its values and conviviality. The food industry is a big family where people like to get together, and we look forward to seeing you on March 4, 5 and 6, 2025! 

Senevisium, Silab's anti-aging active ingredient, wins another award

Senevisium - Silab

Silab's natural anti-aging active, Senevisium, was awarded 1st prize at the C&T Allē Awards in the Actives/Anti-aging category at the Red Carpet Awards Gala on March 6, 2024 in Los Angeles, in conjunction with the Beauty Accelerate conference, less than a year after winning 1st prize at the ICIC Award and 1st prize at the Ringier Award in Asia.

For the development of this longevity concentrate from Ginkgo biloba (a supercentenarian tree with remarkable longevity), Silab has deciphered the phenomenon of immunoevasion, a strategy put in place by certain senescent fibroblasts to avoid being eliminated by the immune system. This natural elimination is nevertheless beneficial, since persistent senescent fibroblasts have deleterious effects on nearby cells.

Silab's research teams have developed some original modelling studies in vitro and in vivo which, according to the company, highlighted the accentuation of this immuno-evasion mechanism on a skin-wide scale after the age of 60. This mechanism leads to profound changes: wrinkles, dull complexion, loss of elasticity and age spots. Silab indicates that, through its targeted action, Senevisium is capable of counteracting the immunoevasion of senescent fibroblasts, enabling them to be eliminated by the immune system.

"We are delighted that the high scientific level of this active ingredient has been recognized by the cosmetics industry. Senevisium is in fact an innovative cosmetic solution, the fruit of a cutting-edge research program which has enabled us, for the first time, to highlight the consequences of the immunoevasion of senescent fibroblasts during skin ageing".says Brigitte Closs-Gonthier, Chairman of the Board and General Manager in charge of R&D, Quality and Communications at Silab.

Photo taken from the Silab website.

IFF to unveil the trends shaping the beauty and personal care industry at in-Cosmetics Global 2024  

site-industries-cosmetiques A blonde-haired woman sits on the floor, one hand supporting her as she leans back, dressed in a white sleeveless top and beige pants on a two-tone yellow and draft background.

IFF and LMR Naturals (LMR), its subsidiary, will be presenting trend-setting concepts and the latest innovations at in-cosmetics Global 2024 Paris, from April 16 to 18 on stand 1N140.

This year, IFF and LMR will go beyond the traditional show format and introduce an immersive sensory experience - "Divergent dialogues: when art meets science in personal care formulations". 

This immersive experience will feature eight innovative formulations, offering visitors a sensory odyssey in which they will engage in tactile, auditory and olfactory stimulation. 

Featuring IFF ingredients from the Genencare natural actives range, the Aurist functional range and the fragrance portfolio, these formulations illustrate the five key market and sensory trends that IFF has identified as trends that will shape the beauty and personal care industry in 2024:

  • Holistic wellness: As consumers become increasingly health-conscious and take a holistic approach to their own mental and physical well-being, beauty routines will be extended beyond appearance to maximize pleasure, relaxation and wellness benefits.
  • Sensory experiences: Consumers value sensory experiences in their daily routine, and choose products that transform mundane tasks into moments of pleasure and enjoyment.
  • Budget-conscious consumers: in a difficult economic climate, consumers continue to indulge themselves, giving priority to products that are functional and effective without compromising on price.
  • Sustainable choices: The environmental characteristics of beauty and personal care products have become an integral part of the decision-making process, reflecting a broader cultural shift towards responsible, mindful consumerism.
  • New trust equation: Consumer behavior is changing, emphasizing their preference for scientifically-backed products with proven efficacy and safety.

"Our unwavering commitment to innovation, coupled with substantial investment in research and development, underlines our creative and scientific expertise, said Simon Herriott, President of Health & Biosciences and Scent at IFF. This enables our customers not only to navigate, but also to thrive in the highly competitive and constantly evolving beauty and personal care industry. We're not just keeping pace, we're actively shaping the future of personal care solutions."

Among the products presented at the show are :

  • The Active Essences collection from LMR Naturals, an innovative range of fragrance ingredients offering renewable absolutes and extracts obtained by supercritical CO2 treated with recycled CO2. The three ingredients to be presented at the show are : Narcisse Absolute Conscious LMR, Pepper Pink CO2 Extract LMR, and Pepper Timur CO2 Extract LMR. These ingredients have been scientifically tested in vitro to demonstrate their benefits for skin, hair and scalp. This collection is also beneficial for emotional and cognitive well-being.
  • Oum, a collection of body care formulations, a range including a nectar body cleanser, a shower sorbet body lotion and a neck and body serum containing Aurist AGC, a new, easily biodegradable conditioning polymer made possible by IFF's exclusive Designed Enzymatic Biopolymers (DEB) technology. Aurist AGC was launched last March as a revitalizing biopolymer for hair, and was reintroduced in October with a revitalizing effect for skin.

Visitors will be able to gain formulation knowledge on the Aurist functional line at an IFF technical seminar entitled "Achieve Formulation Greats: Novel biopolymers for new textures and formats" on Wednesday April 17 at 11am.

The rocky soil of Haute Provence in a perfume 

Nissaba - Provence

For the young perfume house Nissaba, Sébastien Cresp has created a fragrance with a rich, aromatic bouquet from the rocky soil of Haute Provence. With "Provence", Sébastien Cresp, son of a perfumer and a native of the region, wanted to illustrate the scents of his native land. 

To compose the Provence fragrance, five plants were selected in the form of extracts: Diva lavender, followed by Lavandin absolute and Hyssop from Haute Provence, mint oil for freshness, coriander seeds from Provence and pepper extracts, and finally clary sage, a crop that has become very important in the region today.

"I built this fragrance around this Provençal accord. Then I married it with a green tea accord, then sophisticated it with spicy, vegetal and green facets. Finally, I worked on a woody, sandalwood base. When I smell it, I'm transported to Provence.explains Sébastien Cresp.

"We set the balance point at at least 90% of natural origin, in order to maximize naturalness while leaving access to the molecules to remain in high perfumery. Our alcohol is certified organic and of French origin. But the most important thing is to formulate with the best natural extracts from the best origins, to create the right conditions for perfumers, and to pay tribute to the growers of perfume plants and their know-how".says the perfumer.

Founded by Sébastien Tissot, Nissaba's creative approach is based on having top perfumers assemble the best of a country's local ingredients. The starting point is the identification of a region's raw materials, and the rigorous inventory of the best natural extracts from these terroirs, from which the formula for each perfume is composed.

The Nissaba fragrance collection comprises six scents, created with the contribution of seven perfumers from dsm-Firmenich: Nicolas Bonneville, Sébastien Cresp, Ilias Ermenidis, Alexandra Monet, Fabrice Pellegrin, Coralie Spicher and Frank Voelkl.

Twelve perfume pumps for 12 astrological signs

Astrological-Perfumes-Silgan-Dispensing

For International Fragrance Week, Silgan Dispensing associated each zodiac sign with a perfume pump. The American company developed a spray for each of the 12 astrological signs and the personality it embodies, creating an experience that transcends the spray to the application.

The company points out that perfume, as a form of self-expression and self-improvement, has been cherished throughout history, its roots going back to ancient civilizations. Similarly, astrology - the study of the stars, their positions and their supposed influence on human affairs and natural phenomena - has traversed cultures for centuries, guiding individuals in understanding themselves and their destiny for millennia.

With over 60 years of expertise, Silgan Dispensing is renowned for its innovative fragrance dispensing solutions. The company is one of the world's leading suppliers of high-tech actuators, pumps, sprays and dispensing closure solutions for leading consumer brands in the home, health and beauty markets. 

900.care raises €21 million

site-industries-cosmetiques Two smiling men with similar features, possibly twins, hold and present 900.care sun protection products against a yellow polka-dot background.

Launching commercially in 2021, 900.care has set itself the mission of democratizing refills in the hygiene-beauty industry. The young company has just closed a new €21 million round of financing. This round was led by the arrival of the impact fund Lombard Odier Investment Managers and by long-standing investors White Star Capital, Swen Blue Ocean and Founders Future.

"It's our rapid growth among an increasingly broad population that has convinced our existing investors to renew their confidence in us, and new ones to want to join us. This round of financing will enable us to amplify our mission to make recharging the new norm, by making our products accessible to everyone in France and Europe. And it will multiply our already substantial impact - over 4M pieces of plastic waste avoided since our launch!"says Aymeric Grange, CEO and co-founder of 900.care.

The company almost tripled its sales in 2023, topping €10m by the end of the year. It aims to reach profitability by the end of 2024, with sales of €100 million within three years. 900.care also plans to accelerate its product development and internationalization in Europe.

Based on the observation that 90 % of conventional hygiene and cleaning products are made up of water transported throughout the supply chain, from factories to supermarkets, the company has decided to supply only the active ingredients of these products, leaving them to be mixed with tap water at home, in a reusable bottle.

900.care sells small sticks of compressed active ingredients, which, when dissolved in water, produce over 15 different products, depending on the formula, from shower gel to shampoo to deodorant. All made in France, with natural formulas and at prices comparable, or even lower, according to the company, than those of mass retailers.

A subscription system that makes everyday life easier for the French 

With a monthly subscription system, products are delivered by post directly to the home. The brand offers a range of shower gels, toothpastes, deodorants and shampoos to be mixed with water in a reusable bottle. 900.care claims 235,000 active subscriptions across France.

"900.care is precisely the kind of model we see as promising for the future, since the brand offers a virtuous model that minimizes plastic production. This simple, easy-to-use solution, accessible to the greatest number of people and supported by an innovative industrial process, enables us to help consumers adopt new reflexes on a daily basis".says Victoire Carous, co-manager of Lombard Odier Investment Managers' Plastic Circularity fund.

"White Star Capital is convinced that the companies that will have a positive impact on consumers' everyday lives and on the planet will also become the most successful businesses. That's why we're proud to continue supporting 900.care".comments Matthieu Lattes, General Partner at White Star Capital.

"We are proud to support a company that strives to have the most accessible price positioning possible, which contributes to multiplying its positive impact on the planet and its oceans."Mélanie Le Guen, Principal at Swen Blue Ocean.

Photo: from left to right, Aymeric Grange and Thomas Arnaudo, the two founders of 900.care.

Sunscreen: the French don't protect themselves enough according to the Febea barometer

Sun cream

Febea (Fédération des entreprises de la beauté) has unveiled the results of its barometer conducted in partnership with OpinionWay on "French sun protection habits". 

The French protect themselves, but not enough

While 9 out of 10 French people think it's essential to protect themselves from UV radiation with suitable products, the extent to which people actually do so varies according to the location of exposure, as well as their sex and age.

At the seaside or poolside, more than 8 out of 10 French people (83 %) use sunscreen at least once a day for exposure lasting several hours, but only 43 % repeat this gesture at least every two hours. And there are still 16 % (3 points less than in 2021) who say they never protect themselves, a rate that rises to 21 % among men.

In a garden or on a terrace, only 69% apply sun protection at least once a day for long exposure. Even so, 30% of French people (including 36 % of men) never protect themselves (10 points more than in 2021).

The vast majority of parents (93 %) protect their children at least once a day when exposed to the sun, and almost 60 % reapply sunscreen at least every two hours. Only 7 % of children are never protected.

Nearly two-fifths (39 %) of French people think they can do without sunscreen because "they don't really need it", a rate that rises to 46 % among men and young people aged 25 to 34. "An alarming lack of awareness of the risks," notes Febea.

Many obstacles

The reasons that motivate the French to protect themselves are, first and foremost, protection against sunburn for 79 % of them, followed by protection against skin pathologies (cancers, allergies, ...) for 76 %, then protection against skin aging (53 %, + 4 points compared to 2021 results).

Among the top three disincentives cited were fears of the health impact of certain ingredients in the creams (59 %), followed closely by the price of sunscreens (57 %), and the ecological impact they could have on the oceans and the environment (54 %).

The 25-34 age group is particularly concerned about the possible health risks of sunscreens (69 %, 10 points above average). They are also twice as likely as the average to think that sunscreens prevent them from tanning (45 % vs. 22 %).

"These figures reveal a major paradox: on the one hand, a very high collective awareness of the health risks of UV exposure, and on the other, a lack of rigor in following the health authorities' recommendations for protection, says Emmanuel Guichard, Managing Director of Febea. This barometer also shows that preconceived ideas about the health and environmental impact of suncare products persist. Suncare products are subject to extremely strict regulations, which guarantee both their efficacy and their safety for consumer health. What's more, brands are constantly innovating to improve formulations, enhance biodegradability and measure the impact on marine environments as accurately as possible.

"We must continue to remind people that the risks associated with unprotected exposure to the sun are fatal. The real danger is not protecting yourself!" he warns.

Using sunscreens properly

Febea reminds us that sunscreen should not be used if it has been open for a year, and that sun protection should be applied every two hours, or even more often if you're swimming, sweating or if your skin has been rubbed by a cloth (clothing, towel). A high sun protection factor does not prevent you from tanning.

What's more, sun protection products are non-toxic to your health. "All cosmetics products and ingredients on the market are safe for your health. Among cosmetic ingredients, sunscreens are subject to a specific additional framework: given their major role in health, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), an independent body reporting to the European Commission, regularly carries out in-depth checks on their efficacy and safety".emphasizes the federation of beauty companies.

Quid the environmental impact of sunscreens? According to Febea, the cosmetics industry is taking action to design sunscreen formulas that provide optimum protection, while reducing their impact on the environment. For example, by using fewer filters, introducing ingredients of plant origin, or biodegradable, not forgetting water-resistant formulas.

The federation of beauty companies also notes that the weakening of coral reefs is largely due to the effects of global warming, such as rising temperatures and acidifying waters.

Photo: AdoreBeautyNZ / Pixabay

Herbarom, a committed partner of the Journées de la naturalité

Herbarom Naturalness Days

A pioneer in plant extraction and distillation and an expert in dietary supplements, Herbarom is present in four strategic markets - agriculture, beauty & fragrance, flavoring & food, and dietary supplements & pharmaceuticals. Herbarom is blowing out its 30th candle, also celebrating 30 years of partnerships and interest in naturalness.

Since 1994, Herbarom has been working alongside players in the industry to inspire, co-create and develop natural solutions that create value for its customers, and a tailor-made service offering.

In 2024, the company has renewed its support for the Journées de la naturalité organized by the Innov'Alliance competitiveness cluster, as a gold partner. The event will take place on April 3 and 4 in Avignon.

Promoting naturalness

To mark the occasion, Anne Manubens, Group Marketing Director and Sales Director for Herbarom Laboratoire, will be taking part in the "How to innovate in understanding consumers and their perception of naturalness" conference on Thursday April 4 at 2pm. Consumer habits and expectations are constantly evolving. At the same time, the development of new technologies and cognitive neurosciences offers the prospect of a better understanding of consumer behavior. This raises a number of questions: how can we understand the consumer in order to meet his or her needs? On which product dimensions should we innovate? 

For Herbarom, Naturality is the symbiosis between Nature and Man, guaranteeing a product that is as natural as possible and respectful of its environment. It is present at every stage in the life cycle of our products: terroir, cultivation, extraction, processing, enhancement & consumption - to guarantee respect for plant matter and its natural active ingredients.

The company also emphasizes that naturalness also means embodying strong values with its teams: closeness to nature and producers, respect for living organisms, and the development of sustainable solutions.

To find the best plants, Herbarom has structured the supply chain, from the field to its production units, and set up "sustainable partnerships", through controlled, integrated or exclusive supply chains.

The Journées de la naturalité, a time for conferences and discussion

Targeting professionals in the agricultural, food, nutraceutical, cosmetics, fragrance and flavor industries, the Naturalness Days are structured around several key events:

  • Conferences and round-table discussions dedicated to the latest technical and scientific developments in naturalness
  • Pitch sessions and workshops on innovations and new trends in the sector
  • A business lounge and business meetings.

See you on April 3 and 4, 2024 in Avignon!

Photo taken from the Herbarom website (https://herbarom-groupe.com)

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