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Lipoid Kosmetik boosts the cosmetic benefits of astaxanthin with phospholipids

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Lipoid - PhytoSolve Astaxanthin

A leading manufacturer of high-quality botanical extracts, active ingredients and natural phospholipid products for the cosmetics and personal care industries, Lipoid Kosmetik presents PhytoSolve Astaxanthin, an innovative natural active ingredient for antioxidant protection and anti-aging formulations.

PhytoSolve Astaxanthin offers a synergistic complex comprising the powerful antioxidant astaxanthin and natural phospholipids. This combination results in an advanced ingredient with excellent cosmetic effects, according to Lipoid Kosmetik.

The preformed emulsion is free of preservatives and can be added to any cosmetic formulation. In studies in vitroPhytoSolve Astaxanthin boosts the skin's antioxidant potential and has protective effects against the impact of skin ageing caused by UVB irradiation. What's more, according to Lipoid Kosmetik, the active ingredient demonstrated a pronounced anti-wrinkle effect in a study. in vivo and gave the skin a healthier complexion.

The combination of astaxanthin with natural phospholipids makes PhytoSolve Astaxanthin a suitable ingredient for anti-wrinkle effects and UV protection.

This new active ingredient will be showcased at in-Cosmetics Global, to be held at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles from April 16 to 18, 2024 (stand 1H35).

Mprint offers a single-jet inkjet printing module

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Mprint monojet_railsystem

To meet the growing demand for personalization, Mprint (Kurz Group) offers new printing possibilities with its single-jet module. This enables real-time variable data to be integrated into products, transforming traditional operations into an innovative hybrid printing solution.

A flexible, easy-to-integrate module

The single-jet is a compact, low-noise UV-LED digital inkjet printing module that can be integrated into existing production lines. Flexible, this module is available in reel-to-reel configurations as standard, and also in sheet-fed on request. Intuitive control software, entirely developed by Mprint, makes it easy to use, enabling rapid operator training.

The packaging of consumables and their practicality not only ensures a clean working environment, but above all saves time and money, with no loss of product. Just what's needed, where it's needed", according to Mprint, to get the job done, while at the same time contributing to a sustainable economy.

According to the company, this single-jet module offers unrivalled printing qualities, both in terms of finesse (such as Chinese ideograms, for example) and in terms of solids, from 600 to 1200 dpi. In particular, it can create high opacity in a single pass, if required, or print in grayscale, unlike other traditional systems. Its printing qualities, combined with a print speed of 72 m/ min in standard mode, rising to over 150 m/ min if required, make it a highly efficient module.

A wide range of applications

The Mprint module adapts to aluminum, paper, synthetic and plastic laminates.

From printing images and logos, to variable data in the form of text, random numbers, barcodes, Datamatrix or QR codes (including secure ones), this module offers a wide range of printing versatility.

Its ultra-short ripping time - compared with other solutions on the market - saves time when processing multi-page files.

All-in-one service 

Mprint's commitment to R&D, its ability to carry out tests and supply consumables, as well as its simplified, personalized customer care and after-sales service, have convinced a large number of companies.

Finally, backed by the various divisions of the Kurz Group, to which Mprint belongs, synergies and hybrid solutions are being developed in all business areas and in different markets, from coding to finishing.

Turnkey Solutions by Aptar: a new showcase collection inspired by the Olympic Games and sport

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The editorial staff
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Turnkey Solution by Aptar

At the Cosmoprof trade show held in Bologna, Italy, from March 21 to 24, 2024, Aptar Beauty unveiled its exclusive new Turnkey Solutions by Aptar collection. Inspired by sport and the Paris 2024 Olympic Games, "Go beyond beauty" showcases the expertise and creativity of the division's teams. 

This collection is in line with current trends by positioning itself in the world of sport. It offers an advanced routine made up of 12 ready-to-use products organized around three key stages: preparation (three products identified in blue), celebration (six products identified in magenta), and recovery (three products identified in green).

This new range highlights the expertise of the Turnkey Solutions by Aptar teams in terms of creativity, innovation, formulation and packaging.

The selected premium packagings - in market formats - represent a panel of Aptar's most advanced innovations in terms of technicality and eco-design. They can be used as presented, or customized according to specific graphic and product lines. With total adaptability.

"With the first New Dawn collection, we presented a routine made up of 'must-have' products. With Go beyond beauty, we're taking things a step further and rolling out a wider variety of products. We offer strong concepts! They are expressed in the exclusivity of the formulas, the choice of technical packaging, the attention paid to decoration and sensoriality, and an unprecedented marketing line that envisages beauty care and rituals as so many nods to the highlights of the sport".says Savéria Guelfucci, Marketing Manager for Turnkey Solutions by Aptar.

Innovative products

Thanks to creative and playful marketing, the latest trends in skincare and beauty products are integrated into this new make-up-oriented collection. Go beyond beauty brings together mists, creams, serums, lip balms, roll-ons, high-lighters, foundations, etc. The aesthetic choices made by the Turnkey Solutions by Aptar teams have focused on a streamlined, predominantly white design (with the exception of tinted lip balms, to match the marketing codes of this segment), marked in three symbolic colors - blue, magenta, green - and numbered, in a nod to sports jerseys.

"The technical packaging solutions we came up with included some of the Group's most innovative. Each one responds, in its own way, to environmental concerns: monomaterial for easier recyclability, use of recycled resins, refillability... As for the formulas, they are aligned with this same requirement, since they are vegan, highly natural (minimum 95 % according to ISO16128) and/or contain upcycled ingredients in several cases. For example, the lip balms and lipsticks are made from vegetable oils and waxes, and the solid eye contour care contains recycled coffee oil and upcycled squalane derived from olive oil".explains Marilyne Candolives, Formulation Manager.

Four exclusive Fusion packagings 

With the Go beyond beauty collection, Aptar introduces to the European market four brand-new packagings designed by the group's Fusion PKG branch: Icon Jar, a special cream jar available in monomaterial (PP) and recycled resin; Space Sift, an ergonomic loose powder compact; Airless Repeat, a refillable and recyclable airless bottle, in recycled resin or monomaterial (PP); Single Roller Ball, an airless ball applicator, monomaterial (PP).

Fragrant presentation materials 

The collection benefits from a fresh, delicate olfactory signature of green notes, jasmine and musk created by the perfume house Parfex, which is featured - for the first time at Aptar - on the communication cards.

Promoting these new products is an opportunity to highlight Aptar Beauty's new expertise in paper and fragrance supports, following the acquisition of iD Scent.

With its versatile business, Turnkey Solutions by Aptar offers brands - start-ups, indie brands, independent brands, private labels - a complete service to develop their skincare and make-up ranges, providing expertise and customized support for their launches.

Golden Hour" capsule collection

On the occasion of Vogue World's Haute Couture Fashion Week, which will celebrate fashion and sport at the end of June 2024, Aptar Beauty will be adding the even more premium "Golden Hour" capsule to its collection, in keeping with the codes of haute couture and luxury.

Two product families will be in the spotlight:

  • Sticks, with a decongestant eye contour care product and an anti-blemish skin care product, featuring solid cosmetics and therefore water-free formulas.
  • Refillable lipsticks, with two vibrant shades and a moisturizing balm.

Sobriété hydrique: a guide to best practices published by Febea

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The editorial staff
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Febea - Water sobriety guide

To mark World Water Day on Friday March 22, Febea has published a reference guide to water efficiency for all players in the cosmetics industry.

In its guide entitled "Sobriété hydrique: enjeux et bonnes pratiques du secteur cosmétique" ("Water sobriety: issues and best practices in the cosmetics sector"), the French federation of beauty companies, details the challenges faced by manufacturers and solutions for responsible water management throughout the cosmetics manufacturing process. The aim is to help companies reduce their water footprint, minimize waste and make a positive contribution to preserving the planet's precious water resources. 

In all, some 57 best practices are shared in the guide to enable all players in the cosmetics industry to seize the opportunity. Febea provides all companies in the sector with tools and examples of innovation, and offers a checklist of 11 concrete recommendations (adopting water-efficient ingredients and formulations, establishing good cleaning and maintenance practices, implementing advanced wastewater treatment and recycling, training and raising team awareness, etc.).

"These best practices illustrate the commitment of cosmetics companies to limiting the environmental footprint of their activity. We hope they will inspire all companies in the sector seeking effective, innovative solutions. It is by sharing our know-how and acting together that we will be able to achieve the environmental efficiency we are all aiming for".explains Emmanuel Guichard, General Delegate of Febea.

Measuring your water footprint, an essential step

As "you only manage what you measure", prior knowledge of the quantity of water a company needs for its activities, as well as the volumes available locally, are key steps in assessing its sustainability and water-related risks (water stress, environmental impact, water quality).

This approach makes it possible to optimize the use of water throughout the product life cycle, distinguishing between direct consumption (covering the various functions of water in the cosmetics formulas themselves) and indirect consumption (relating to the production of raw materials and packaging, the manufacturing processes for cosmetics formulas and the product use phase).

Three main areas for action in favor of water

After measuring their water footprint, companies need to limit their impact on water resources. Febea's guide focuses on three main areas, with concrete examples illustrating actions along the entire value chain.

In the formulation and sourcing of raw materials, companies are working to develop new formulas and presentations for cosmetics that consume less water during use (no-rinse, solid or soluble) and are more respectful of aquatic environments (by meeting ecotoxicity and biodegradability tests). In addition, sustainable agricultural practices help to reduce the water footprint of ingredients.

As far as process water is concerned, manufacturers can take action to reduce water use and wastage in a number of ways: rainwater recovery, optimization of cleaning equipment and dry operation, closed circuits for heating or cooling stages, etc. Some plants implement the reuse of treated water through innovative circular processes. Some plants are implementing innovative circular processes to reuse treated water.

Water is also crucial in industrial and tertiary sites for domestic needs. From sanitary facilities to the upkeep of green spaces, a number of solutions exist: rainwater harvesting, the establishment of wild fallows that do not require watering, nature-based solutions (such as the creation of wetlands to regulate flooding and protect water resources during droughts).

The Febea guide also highlights sponsorship initiatives and initiatives to raise awareness among employees, suppliers and consumers, as well as actions taken by hairdressing and beauty professionals to reduce water consumption in salons and spas.

Julien Schneider appointed General Manager France for the L'Occitane en Provence brand

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Julien Schneider

L'Occitane en Provence, a pioneering brand of skincare, fragrance and wellness products based on natural ingredients, has appointed Julien Schneider as General Manager France.

Julien Schneider has worked in the world of e-commerce for over 20 years. After creating his first start-up in Spain, he joined the Pixmania group in 2007 as European Sales Director for the marketplace. After a position as worldwide e-commerce director with a cell phone operator, he continued his career with the Fnac group as internet & mobile director of Fnac.com, where he operated all the group's e-commerce sites.

In 2016, Julien Schneider became global chief digital officer of the Lacoste group before moving to the United States to take over the retail and digital activities of the North America zone for the group. In 2021, he was appointed Chief Digital Officer of the MF Brands group, then CEO of men's ready-to-wear brand Balibaris.

He joins the L'Occitane group as General Manager France for the L'Occitane en Provence brand and a member of the brand's Executive Committee.

With its expertise, its mission is to highlight the history of the company founded in 1976, while promoting the expertise of its laboratories and its French manufacturing process based on natural ingredients. Supporting the L'Occitane en Provenc brande in its digital transformation and its move upmarket is part of its roadmap.

"We're delighted to welcome Julien Schneider, who I'm sure will be able to support our teams in the transformation that lies ahead, taking into account not only the family business and human dimension, but also all our environmental challenges", commented Adrien Geiger, General Manager of L'Occitane en Provence.

A young company harnesses the benefits of peat moss

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site-industries-cosmetiques Freshly ploughed farmland with rich, dark soil and distinct furrows, enhanced by the benefits of peat and sunlight.

Premium Organic, a young, innovative Austrian company specializing in the development, production and marketing of high value-added, natural 100 % active ingredients inspired by traditional European medicine, offers Alpin Heilmoor Extract (AHE), an extract designed to enhance the therapeutic benefits of healing peat bogs.

In the field of skin care research, European balneology is enjoying a resurgence of interest, particularly in harnessing the healing powers of peat to treat a variety of skin conditions. AHE is an innovation born of this tradition.

Therapeutic peat has curative properties. Peloid is indicated for the treatment of chronic rheumatism, degenerative osteoarthritis, the after-effects of joint injuries, fractures, dislocations, disorders resulting from vascular disease, skin diseases and more. AHE embodies this heritage, using advanced techniques to optimize, concentrate and sterilize the most effective healing peat ingredients to pave the way for transformative skincare solutions.

AHE offers a comprehensive solution to a variety of dermatological concerns. As research continues to explore its therapeutic mechanisms and clinical applications, this ingredient is poised, according to its developers, to redefine skincare and usher in a new era of holistic well-being and radiant beauty.

The effects of AHE on microbiome balance, skin barrier improvement, anti-inflammatory properties and wound healing properties were studied. Its impact on aging and oxidative stress was also assessed. AHE, dissolved in PBS or DMSO at 100mg/mL and 200mg/mL respectively, has shown promising therapeutic potential, according to Premium Organic.

Antimicrobial activity: according to Premium Organic, AHE has antimicrobial activity against a range of pathogens involved in skin disease. It promotes the growth of important bacteria such as Staphylococcus epidermidis, and inhibits the growth of Staphylococcus aureus. It also maintains the vitality and diversity of the skin microbiome.

Anti-ageing effects: AHE has anti-ageing properties. Premium Organic reports that it modulates cellular senescence and promotes wound healing. It reduces the load of senescent cells, improves wound healing capacity and modulates keratinocyte differentiation markers, notably K10 and K16 expression. It also increases expression of E-cadherins B1 and B2 and inhibits sphingomyelinase activity, which also contributes to skin integrity and barrier function.

Antioxidant protection: AHE counteracts oxidative stress by reducing the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Age-related functional losses and diseases are associated with the accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and nitrogen species, such as nitric oxide. Premium Organic points out that preclinical studies have shown a significant reduction in ROS production, 8-isoprostane levels and Rage (Receptor for Age) expression.

Anti-inflammatory properties: as demonstrated by its ability to modulate the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines, AHE has powerful anti-inflammatory activity, according to its developers. Continued cytokine expression following harmful stress causes chronic inflammation and skin damage, which in turn leads to skin disease and (premature) aging. Premium Organic reports that studies in vitro showed a significant reduction in the release of IL-6, IL-8, TNF-α, IL-1β, PGE2, MCP-1 and MMP9.

Understanding rinse applications in skin care

Rinse-off treatments are the cornerstone of the skin care routine. They are a convenient and effective way to cleanse and revitalize the skin. Rinse-off formulas play a crucial role in maintaining the skin's health and vitality, whether it's pollutants, impurities, excess sebum or acne-causing bacteria. Premium Organic emphasizes that the efficacy of Alpin Heilmoor Extract in rinse-off formulations should be studied in depth to reveal its detoxifying, purifying, moisturizing, soothing and anti-acne potential.

Instant hydration and improvement of crow's feet wrinkles 

The immediate benefits of Alpin Heilmoor extract were investigated using a single-application mask, focusing on improving hydration and reducing crow's feet wrinkles. Product efficacy was assessed 15 minutes after application, evaluating both hydration levels and the surface appearance of crow's feet wrinkles. Premium Organic notes that the results show significant improvements in skin appearance, with a reduction in fine lines of up to -18.2 % compared to baseline (T0), and -9.4 % compared to placebo (p<0.001). In addition, an immediate hydration effect was observed 15 minutes after application, with an increase of +19.1 % versus baseline and +16 % versus placebo (p<0.001). These results underline, according to Premium Organic, the rapid and tangible benefits of Alpin Heilmoor extract in improving skin hydration and reducing signs of aging, offering promising implications for immediate skin care solutions.

Soothing effect on sensitive skin 

Premium Organic reports that a clinical study demonstrated the effectiveness of AHE in rinse-off formulations on sensitive skin (p<0.001). A single application of AHE at 1.5 % produced a remarkable soothing effect. After just one minute, the effect was 16 % greater than that of the placebo. This effect was maintained and improved by 42 % after 15 minutes, demonstrating the rapid and sustained efficacy of AHE in soothing sensitive skin.

Protection against environmental pollutants 

According to Premium Organic, AHE was shown to be effective in rinse-off formulations in a clinical study on detoxification and protection against pollution. A single application of 1.5 % of AHE resulted in an improvement in detoxification, 16.3 % higher than placebo (p<0.006). The deposition of carbon microparticles on the skin was eliminated. This underlines AHE's ability to cleanse, purify and protect the skin from environmental aggressions. No clinical signs of discomfort or aggravation were reported by study participants, says Premium Organic.

Acne reduction

The young Austrian company reports that the efficacy of AHE in the fight against acne was the subject of an in-depth 21-day study. According to the company, significant improvements in key parameters were observed with a cleansing formula containing 1.5 % of AHE. 

Photo: © Wälz / Pixabay

Business and innovation at the heart of the 2nd edition of Journées de la Naturalité

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The editorial staff
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Naturalness Days - Innov'Alliance

The Innov'Alliance competitiveness cluster is organizing the 2nd edition of the Journées de la Naturalité, on April 3 and 4, 2024 in Avignon. Aimed at professionals in the agriculture, agrifood, nutraceuticals, cosmetics, fragrances and flavors industries, the event will feature several highlights: conferences and roundtables dedicated to the latest technical and scientific developments in the Naturalité sector, pitches and workshops on innovations and new trends in the sector, as well as a business fair and BtoB meetings, providing genuine commercial and partnership opportunities for companies.

The platform for booking BtoB meetings for the Naturalness Days has been open since February 19 (www.journees-naturalite.fr/inscriptions). Participants can plan their own tailor-made program, alternating between conferences or round tables led by specialists, and individual meetings with future customers, partners, experts, innovative start-ups, etc. Over 70 organizations have already registered, including event partners Herbarom, Inrae, OvinAlp, Phytocontrol, Shiseido, ArkoPharma, Dachser, Givaudan, L'Occitane, Robertet, Yves Rocher and Squali.

The cross-cutting issues of biodiversity, technological and societal innovation, and ecological and environmental transition are the common thread running through these days.

Some 200 players and experts from the naturalness industry are expected in Avignon. According to the organizers, the first edition of the Journées de la Naturalité, in 2022, validated the expectations of professionals, particularly in terms of scientific intelligence and economic partnerships. This second edition takes stock of solutions to current issues and challenges.

Conferences: a rich program alongside BtoB meetings

Wednesday, April 3 :

  • How can we understand and cultivate biodiversity in our industries, from the field to the finished product?
  • How can we preserve and enhance the richness of our terroirs?

Thursday, April 4 :

  • How can new technologies optimize resources and naturalness?
  • How to optimize raw materials and water management through eco-design and recycling?
  • How can we innovate in terms of consumer understanding and perception of naturalness?
  • How do you meet the challenge of Open Innovation?

Photo taken from www.journees-naturalite.fr.

Ana Paula Mendonça appointed President of IFF's Scent Division

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The editorial staff
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Ana Paula Mendonça - IFF

Ana Paula Mendonça has been appointed President of the Scent division of International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF). She will take up her new position on April 1. Simon Herriott, current President of Health & Biosciences and Scent, will continue to head IFF's Health and Biosciences business unit.

IFF's Scent division includes Fine Fragrances, Consumer Fragrances and Fragrance Ingredients. Based in New York, Ana Paula Mendonça will remain a member of the IFF management team. 

Since joining IFF in Brazil in 1996, Ana Paula Mendonça has held positions of increasing responsibility within Scent, including President of Fragrance Ingredients and Regional General Manager for North America Consumer Fragrances. Her experience spans category management in fine fragrances, home, fabrics and beauty, as well as global marketing, creative design and product innovation. 

Ana Paula Mendonça had held the position of SVP Commercial Excellence at IFF since December 2022, leading the company's global key account initiative, including IFF's Sales Excellence program, business analytics and digital activation.

Ana Paula Mendonça holds a master's degree in Business Agility Program and Leadership Excellence Through Awareness and Practice from Insead, and a degree in business management from UAM in Sao Paulo. An active member of IFF's Global Inclusion Committee, she is also the recipient of the Nancy Poulos Leadership Award 2023 from Women in Flavor and Fragrance Commerce. 

Photo taken from IFF's Linkedin page.

Lucibel opens its Beauty Light Bar at La Samaritaine in Paris

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The editorial staff
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Lucibel.le photobiomodulation

Lucibel, a leading player in lighting technologies, develops its care concept on the go through the opening of a Lucibel.le Paris corner in the heart of the Samaritaine skincare area, from March 13 to June 30, 2024. 

The Beauty Light Bar at Lucibel.le Paris will offer a radiance-boosting "12 Minutes to Glow" treatment and a regenerating "OVE Light Cell Rejuvenation" treatment in a dedicated area. On sale will be products from the OVE range, at the cutting edge of photobiomodulation: the OVE mask, a design object whose action promotes collagen production, and its nomadic version, the OVE Mini.

La Samaritaine is a popular Parisian department store, renowned worldwide for its selection of luxury brands. It boasts a unique 3400 m2 beauty area.

A pioneering brand in photobiomodulation since 2014, Lucibel.le Paris is part of a new generation of skincare, based on a holistic approach to well-being that aims to harmonize body and mind. The result of close collaboration between scientists and engineers, all Lucibel.le Paris products are designed and manufactured in France.

"We're delighted to be joining La Samaritaine, a legendary brand with which we share the same high standards of style, beauty and well-being. With on the go skincare, we're inventing a new way of serving our customers, who will be able to discover our universe and try out all our light cosmetic products".commented Frédéric Granotier, Chairman, Founder and CEO of Lucibel.

This operation in an iconic location marks the acceleration of Lucibel.le Paris's strategy of establishing a presence in department stores, and reinforces the Lucibel group's overall momentum in its cosmetics vertical.

Photo from lucibelleparis.com.

Givaudan Active Beauty launches Illuminyl 388, a skin-brightening prebiotic

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The editorial staff
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Givaudan Active Beauty - Illuminyl 388

Givaudan Active Beauty has unveiled Illuminyl 388, a biotechnology-enhanced molecule engineered by cell-free glycosylation to address skin pigmentation challenges for all skin types. Manufactured through a unique biocatalysis process from epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), green tea's most iconic antioxidant, this ingenious brightening molecule offers a holistic luminous effect, according to Givaudan Active Beauty.

This biosourced active ingredient has been designed to simultaneously target several skin pigmentation pathways, and is enhanced with additional prebiotic activity to meet the needs of diverse skin types from Africa, Asia, India and Europe.

Givaudan Active Beauty undertook extensive and comprehensive clinical studies, engaging over 200 volunteers made up of four different skin tones (African, Asian, Indian and Caucasian), establishing, according to the manufacturer, that Illuminyl 388 is able to improve skin radiance and skin tone and luminosity in just two weeks, reduce pigmentation spots in just one month, and improve skin tone evenness, even when tackling stubborn age spots.

Illuminyl 388's sugar fraction enables its absorption via cellular glucose receptors, while conferring on the molecule a prebiotic activity that stimulates the in situ release of a niacin derivative by cutaneous microflora.

"Clinical studies conducted on four different skin types underline the universal efficacy of this skin illuminating active. Givaudan Active Beauty continues to push the boundaries of innovation with Illuminyl 388: not only do we target all major pigmentation pathways, we also trigger the skin microbiota to produce whitening postbiotics. Whether it's improving skin radiance and luminosity, promoting even skin tone or reducing pigmentation spots, Illuminyl 388 outperforms traditional references such as vitamin C. This is testament to our commitment to redefining beauty standards and empowering individuals worldwide."comments Daniel Auriol, Biotechnology Scientific Director at Givaudan Active Beauty.

Achieving a B-Biome Score* of 'B', this brightening active ingredient works in synergy with the microbiome to preserve the overall balance of the skin's microbiota.

Givaudan Active Beauty will be showcasing this new ingredient and its marketing concept, S3D Lumière Noire, on its stand (1C62) at In-Cosmetics Global Paris, to be held April 16-18, 2024 at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles.

* According to Givaudan Active Beauty, the first scientifically proven, 100 % transparent, microbiome-friendly label for cosmetic ingredients.

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