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dsm-firmenich increases production capacity for fragrance ingredients with two new plants in France

dsm-firmenich - Castet

dsm-firmenich has inaugurated a multi-purpose unit for the production of pine-based ingredients, as well as a plant dedicated to the production of Habanolide biodegradable musk, at Castets in south-west France. 

"We're very proud of these state-of-the-art facilities, says Emmanuel Butstraen, President of Perfumery & Beauty at dsm-firmenich. As well as helping us to provide additional production capacity for fragrances in Europe, these expansion projects strengthen our strategic position and enable us to seize the growth opportunities that lie ahead. These two additional plants also make a significant contribution to our sustainability ambitions by reducing the carbon footprint of our logistics operations in the region, while helping our customers achieve their own objectives."

The new multi-purpose facility is an additional production unit designed to supply a variety of finished and intermediate products for the perfume markets. It increases the site's production capacity for renewable ingredients.

"This major expansion is a demonstration of our ongoing efforts to extend our unique industrial expertise in the production of ingredients made from recycled materials.says Amaury Roquette, Head of Ingredients, Fragrances and Beauty at dsm-firmenich. It reinforces dsm-firmenich's global leadership in biobased ingredients derived from pine."

The new Habanolide facility significantly increases production capacity for this fragrance ingredient, which is one of dsm-firmenich's best-selling ingredients. According to the company, Habanolide is known as an elegant macrocyclic musk with a warm, slightly woody note. 

"Habanolide is one of our customers' favorite ingredients, because it is not only powerful and high-performing, but also biodegradable, which are key differentiating factors for the perfumery market.adds Amaury Roquette. With this plant, in addition to our production line in New Jersey (USA), we are strengthening our global position as the home of musk."

The bio-sourced ingredients plant has received a 2.8 million euro grant from the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region to improve industrial performance and energy efficiency. Habanolide's expansion project has received a €1 million grant, as part of the national stimulus plan implemented by the government and the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region, to accelerate industrial investment in France.

Experience Lab: an event to discover new beauty brands

EXPERIENCE LAB

The 4th edition of Experience Lab, the international beauty trade show, took place from March 6 to 9 in Milan. Some 54 independent brands took part (Italian as well as international brands), 19 more than last year. Numerous round tables and conferences also marked the four-day show.

The central theme - "Dress code? Your beauty" - underlined the event's desire to celebrate beauty in its most authentic and particular forms: beauty is not just a question of aesthetics, but also a way of life, an inner balance that manifests itself in everything around us.

On the agenda: innovation, creativity, originality and care in the choice of raw materials.

Experience Lab was held at the same time as the 14th edition of Esxence, The Art Perfumery Event - the international event dedicated to artistic perfumery. The two events attracted a total of over 12,000 participants, including operators, buyers and beauty enthusiasts from all over the world.

For this edition, CFF Creative Flavours & Fragrances also participated with its own experiential workshop called Le Jardin Secret, aimed at exploring unique olfactory accords and raw materials.

Open to an audience of enthusiasts and insiders, conferences and workshops led by beauty experts and academics were offered. A total of 18 speakers contributed to the Experience Lab conferences and meetings.

ERP for cosmetics!

Infologic

Historically present in the publishing and integration of integrated management software for the agri-food sector, the publisher and integrator of the Copilote ERP, Infologic, also addresses the world of cosmetics, laboratories and health nutrition.

Copilote responds to the constraints and specificities of this sector, which are similar to those of the food industry. For example, quality control is mandatory in both sectors! Infologic offers a quality control tool that guarantees product conformity and quality, and performs all the necessary operations. A touch-screen interface can even be added to enable quality control data to be entered directly on the tablet, thus boosting productivity.

Comprehensive and accessible, Copilote covers all company functions with its different modules: management of assembly activities, production management thanks to planning and scheduling, automation of the product range renewal cycle according to annual sales forecasts, management of mandatory displays, upstream/downstream traceability, inventory management, high-performance EDI system with distributors...

All data is retrieved from the ERP system, and used to produce reports and statistics via the Business Intelligence module.

Infologic's customers include Lea Nature, Alpha Nutrition, LGP Nature, JLB Developpement, Nutri Service and Balarama.

Visual extract from the website www.infologic-copilote.fr.

Lipoid Kosmetik launches BakuLipid for clear, youthful skin

Lipoid Kosmetik_BakuLipid

Lipoid Kosmetik, a leading manufacturer of high-quality botanical extracts, actives and natural phospholipid products for the cosmetics and personal care industry, will be taking advantage of in-cosmetics Global Paris to present BakuLipid, an innovative active ingredient approved by Cosmos and Natrue for anti-aging and anti-dark spot applications. 

"Retinol is the best-studied active ingredient on the cosmetics market for anti-imperfection and anti-aging applications. Although its efficacy is indisputable, it poses problems due to its potential to irritate the skin. As a result, herbal alternatives such as bakuchiol are emerging as gentler options with comparable efficacy."the company says.

BakuLipid is an active ingredient based on the distinctive blend of bakuchiol and unsaturated phospholipids for enhanced skin penetration. Suitable for the treatment of skin imperfections and age-related skin problems, with far superior performance to bakuchiol in vivo according to Lipoid Kosmetik, it offers the following benefits for the user:

  • Skin-friendly, plant-based alternative to retinol
  • Superior dermal penetration
  • Reduces signs of skin imperfections
  • Improvement in age-related skin parameters

"BakuLipid revolutionizes the treatment of skin imperfections and aging, uniquely combining bakuchiol and phospholipids for superior results and visibly clearer, younger-looking skin."stresses Lipoid Kosmetik.

The in-cosmetics Global trade show will be held in Paris from April 16 to 18, 2024 at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles.

Lipoid Kosmetik will welcome visitors at stand 1H35.

AS Watson reorganizes management of Marionnaud Group

Marionnaud

AS Watson Group has announced the appointment of Kulvinder Birring as CEO of the Marionnaud Group and Gabriele Betti as Deputy CEO of Marionnaud Europe, a subsidiary of CK Hutchison Holdings.

CEO of Watsons China since 2018, Kulvinder Birring was appointed had led Watsons' operations as Managing Director of Malaysia and Indonesia previously. At the helm of the Marionnaud Group, he will oversee the company's portfolio of over 730 physical and online stores in eight countries, and is one of Europe's leading luxury perfumery and cosmetics brands.

At the same time, Gabriele Betti, currently Managing Director of Marionnaud France, Italy and Central Europe, has been appointed Deputy CEO of the Marionnaud Europe Group. The Marionnaud management team, including Gabriele Betti and Emilio Leon, will work closely with Kulvinder Birring in his new role.

"I would like to warmly thank Kulvinder for his great contribution to Watsons China over the past eight years. Under his leadership, he has successfully repositioned the Watsons brand as the leading retailer in our category nationwide, with a portfolio of over 3,800 O+O stores. He led the organization through a remarkable cultural transformation, fostering a scientific, collaborative, agile and growth-oriented mindset. Despite a highly competitive retail market in China, his team has demonstrated resilience and an unwavering commitment to innovation, continually improving the customer experience. I look forward to seeing how he can apply his experience to the growth strategy of our luxury perfumery and cosmetics retailer Marionnaud in Europe".said Dominic Lai, Group Managing Director of AS Watson and Executive Director of CK Hutchison.

"Gabriele has worked for Marionnaud for 16 years, with experience in supply chain management, technology and sales, before holding management positions in Italy and then France, as well as an expanded portfolio including Romania, the Czech Republic, Hungary and Slovakia. He has demonstrated customer- and employee-focused management, placing the latter at the heart of the company. He has successfully led the company's digital transformation, integrating O+O skills to further enhance the customer experience. In his new role, Gabriele will work closely with Kulvinder to drive the Marionnaud Group forward."added Dominic Lai.

Appointments will be effective from April 2024.

Photo:
Kulvinder Birring (left) and Gabriele Betti (right).

Pochet Group and Koa glass sign strategic partnership

Photo KOA Glass

The Pochet Group and Japan's Koa Glass have announced a partnership to draw on each other's expertise to push back the boundaries of glassmaking techniques and respond to brand creativity.

Both family-owned companies, French glassmaker Pochet and Japan-based Koa Glass, share common values in terms of customer commitment and boldness. The two companies have decided to strengthen their ties by signing a long-term strategic partnership to share their historic know-how and expertise in hot glass and decoration techniques, and to pool their development and production capacities to meet market needs in different geographical areas.

The two companies will be able to draw on this partnership to enrich their offerings and provide beauty brands with innovations and glass creations combining aesthetics, high-tech and durability. 

"I am very pleased and proud of this partnership between Groupe Pochet and KOA Glass, which demonstrates our shared desire to work together to serve our customers, the luxury perfume and beauty houses. This partnership, which is fully in line with our strategic plan, should enable us to achieve our ambition of becoming the essential partner of the beauty industry over the long term".says Irène Gosset, President of the Pochet Group.

Since then, the Pochet Group has endeavored to innovate and renew its offer, while respecting its heritage. The same applies to KOA Glass. "Thanks to this partnership between our two family-owned Houses, we are delighted to be developing a co-innovation model, based on the sharing of knowledge, in order to offer our customers ever more innovative products."says Hironari Idei, President & CEO.

"The need to share information and pool our expertise has become essential to progress in our glassmaking know-how. Experts from the Pochet Group and KOA Glass are already working together to promote these exchanges, with results that are already tangible.says Benoit Marszalek, Pochet du Courval's Director of Operations.

Photo: © Koa Glass

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Eau Thermale Avène reaches one billion euros in sales

Cicalfate - Avene

Eau Thermale Avène is the first Laboratoires Pierre Fabre brand to reach one billion euros in sales, with 77 % generated internationally. Some 130 million units of Avène products were sold in 2023. 

In France, the brand is the leader in the pharmacy channel*. Renowned for its dermatological expertise, Laboratoire Dermatologique Eau Thermale Avène markets 180 dermo-cosmetic skincare products, including the iconic Intense protect 50+ for sun protection, Cicalfate+ for repair care, and Spray d'eau thermale, one of which is sold every second worldwide.

"The billion euro mark is always a symbolic milestone for a brand and its teams. It's also an opportunity to remind ourselves that we have always been guided by a 'medical' mission, our raison d'être being to care for pathological skin. Our skincare lines, such as Sunsimed, Comedomed and Rosamed, are able to accompany or even limit the use of medical treatments. In 2024, our ambition will be to reinforce this medical anchoring and develop the most innovative dermo-cosmetic products on the market".says Anne Laure Nguyen Huy Lai, Eau Thermale Avène Brand Director.

In 2024, Eau Thermale Avène will launch new products dedicated to the treatment of skin disorders: visible scars and their repair, acne, and sun protection.

"Our affiliation with Laboratoires Pierre Fabre and the clinical studies we carry out at the Avène spa give us a head start in our understanding of patients and dermatoses. We are committed to preserving our medical roots, and going even further to improve the health and quality of life of all those suffering from skin disorders. In addition to launching strategic products in 2024, we aim to introduce care protocols that combine drugs and dermo-cosmetics, a breakthrough approach in the world of dermo-cosmetics. "says Gautier Doat, Medical Director of Laboratoire Eau Thermale Avène.

Eau Thermale Avène brand products are developed in Toulouse between the Pierre Fabre innovation center, located on the Oncopole campus, and the skin research center at Hôtel-Dieu. They are manufactured at the Avène (Hérault) plant, located as close as possible to the spring. 

Avène's thermal spring water, with properties recognized by the French National Academy of Medicine since 1874, is an asset. Every year, over 3,000 spa visitors from all over the world come to Avène to treat skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, acne, ichthyosis or the cutaneous side effects of cancer treatments. All these pathologies have one thing in common: they considerably impair the quality of life of the people they affect.

* IQVIA 2023 - Pharmacy France

Photo taken from the Eau Thermale Avène website.

SVR chooses Aptar Beauty's Airless Micro rPET pack for its new range

SVR - Aptar Beauty

For the launch of its Palpebral range, the SVR laboratory has chosen a recycled and recyclable airless solution from Aptar Beauty.

Aptar Beauty, a global specialist in distribution solutions, is adapting its standard packaging offering by proposing more sustainable versions of its best-sellers, notably through the integration of recycled materials.

The Airless Micro 30ml pack, for example, is available in an rPET version, with the barrel molded entirely from recycled PET. Compatible with the most sensitive formulas, while ensuring their protection thanks to airless technology, rPET is also recyclable.1 in the PET industry.

Despite the constraints imposed by the recycled material (a grayer color than that obtained from conventional material), Aptar Beauty was able to reproduce the iconic pink color of SVR's Palpebral range, while retaining a transparent effect allowing the formula to be seen.

Thanks to the technical experts at Aptar Beauty, Laboratoire Dermatologique was able to reconcile brand aesthetics, consumer convenience and respect for the environment.

"SVR wanted recycled and recyclable packaging that could both protect and enhance their formula, without compromising the aesthetics and feel of the product to the touch. A successful challenge for the teams at Aptar Beauty Villingen in Germany, who also achieved a 52 % reduction in CO2 emissions.2 thanks to the rPET containerexplains Magdalena Kaminska, Beauty Marketing Director EMEA, Aptar Beauty.

Baume Palpebral by dermatological laboratory SVR was launched in October 2023. A success that Aptar Beauty presents at trade shows.

Aptar Beauty's Micro range is also available in a variety of formats, shapes and materials, offering numerous customization options.

1. In its standard configuration, excluding any decorative considerations.

2. In kg of CO2 equivalent per 1000 units. Based on a container composed of 100 % of mechanical PCR resin and 100 % of conventional resin. All emissions calculations were carried out using the Aptar Eco Design LCA tool, on raw materials only. No third-party reviews were carried out.

Seppic: Emogreen HP40, enhanced potential

Emogreen HP40 - Seppic

Seppic enriches Emogreen HP40 test results with hair and skin care benefits.

With Emogreen HP40 (Inci: C15-19 Alkane, Hydrogenated Polyfarnesene), Seppic offers a natural alternative to silicones. Launched in 2022, this intrinsically biodegradable emollient of plant origin meets the demand from formulators looking for alternatives to heavy silicones, particularly for hair care. 

Seppic has carried out new tests to clarify a number of points concerning hair and skin, reinforcing the potential of Emogreen HP40.

The company reports that Emogreen HP40, applied undiluted to dry curly hair, demonstrated comparable shine performance to Phenyl Trimethicone, a leading silicone for this claim. 

Used in a rinsed-off mask, Seppic's emollient also helps prevent color fading thanks to its film-forming properties.

According to Seppic, when applied to the skin, Emogreen HP40 provides a real feeling of comfort, hugging the skin's contours better than silicones. 

What's more, formulated as an emulsion, Emogreen HP40 spreads easily and absorbs oil droplets from the emulsion onto the skin, an advantage over silicones. It forms a flexible, homogeneous, full-coverage film.

Emogreen HP40 - data on skin
Visualization of stratum corneum surface topography (SEM-FEG).

Stoelzle Masnières Parfumerie bottles Thrill fragrances by AMG Parfums

Stoelzle - INNC, AMG Perfume, The Thrill

After working with Stoelzle Masnières Parfumerie for the Mercedes-Benz Parfums brand, INCC Parfums has once again called on the French glassworks of the Austrian Stoelzle group to produce its first AMG Parfums bottles.

The Thrill fragrance collection is the inaugural trilogy from AMG Parfums, designed to bring the spirit of racing to the heart of the Mercedes-Benz universe.

Fabrice Pellegrin, principal perfumer at Firmenich, has composed three signature creations: Silver Thrill, Black Thrill and Red Thrill, each reflecting a key element of the AMG universe: technology for Silver Thrill, luxury for Black Thrill and passion for Red Thrill.

Already committed to eco-responsibility, INCC Parfums entrusted Stoelzle with the production of these bottles, made from recycled glass and refillable using the new SNI15 screw cap standard.

Each large bottle (100ml) features a heart protected by a metal shell. A signature code for the franchise that reflects the audacity of the AMG brand.

The technical challenge was to design glass fittings that could be demolded, allowing the plates to be housed with their tolerances. The three bottles were pre-lacquered in transparency, the Silver Thrill in orange, the Black Thrill in red and the Red Thrill in dark yellow.

The smaller 60ml bottles are also lacquered, using the same color codes as the 100ml containers. For this format, the brand logo and the name of each fragrance have been screen-printed directly onto the glass. These bottles are presented without a shell, to offer a wider product range in a lighter, more portable format. Controlling the distribution of the glass was a real challenge, given the height and thinness of the bottle.

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