Cosmetic Valley and Essec partners

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2 April 2025

Partnership COSMETIC VALLEY ESSEC 28_03_2025

Cosmetic Valley, competitiveness cluster and coordinator of the French perfume and cosmetics industry, announces a strategic partnership with the Beauty Chair at Essec Business School. This collaboration will strengthen the links between academia and industry, to help train future decision-makers in the sector and support innovation in a constantly evolving market.

Cosmetic Valley will lend its expertise to the Chair's students, providing them with an in-depth understanding of the issues and challenges facing the cosmetics industry, particularly at international level - technological, ecological, digital and geopolitical.

Thanks to its academic expertise and research capabilities, the Essec Beauty Chair will be taking part in the discussions surrounding the future Maison Internationale de la Cosmétique in Chartres, an emblematic project designed to promote the excellence of French know-how in this field.

"Finally, at a time when the future of the cosmetics industry is being shaped by regulatory changes in Europe, tax changes in America, and competitive changes in Asia, Cosmetic Valley and the Essec Beauty Chair will be jointly publishing market studies on the evolution of the global cosmetics sector, emerging trends and major issues for industry professionals.say the two actors.

This partnership illustrates the shared determination of Cosmetic Valley and Essec to prepare the talents of tomorrow and actively contribute to the development of a key sector of the French economy.

"An essential part of the French industry, subject to new competition and increasingly stringent regulations, the cosmetics sector needs sensors and indicators, to master market trends and accelerate research results. Know-how and the art of living are no longer enough to aim for excellence. Innovation and information are essential. Essec will provide them.says Marc-Antoine Jamet, President of Cosmetic Valley.

"We are delighted to strengthen our partnership with Cosmetic Valley. We share common values and objectives. Our ambition is to produce and share knowledge to help our members and students develop innovative and sustainable activities, i.e. those that are economically viable, respect people and our natural environment, and create value for our companies over the long term".says Marc Mazodier, Professor of Marketing and holder of the Essec Beauty Chair.

_{Photo: from left to right, Julien Malaurent, Deputy Managing Director of Essec, Marc Mazodier, Essec Beauty Chair, Marc-Antoine Jamet, President of Cosmetic Valley and General Secretary of LVMH, and Christophe Masson, Managing Director of Cosmetic Valley.}

Persán acquires Mibelle Group

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The editorial staff

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1 April 2025

Multinational Persán S.A. (sales €862 million, 2,000 employees), a leading European manufacturer of household cleaning products, has announced the acquisition of Mibelle Group, a subsidiary of Swiss retail giant Migros. This strategic acquisition includes all Mibelle Group entities and employees (with the exception of Mibelle's former South Korean subsidiary, Gowoonsesang, already acquired by the L'Oréal Group).

This acquisition enables Persán, based in Seville, Spain, to strengthen its international presence, particularly in the personal care sector, and to exceed one billion euros in sales, thus becoming a major global player in private label and contract manufacturing. For Migros, this sale is part of a strategy to refocus on its core business.

Mibelle Biochemistry, the division specializing in the development of active ingredients for the cosmetics and nutraceutical industries, is also included in the acquisition. According to the company, this transaction fits perfectly with Persán's future growth strategy, as the two companies complement each other in terms of expertise, technology, markets and production sites.

The transaction is expected to be finalized by the end of April 2025.

_{Photo from Mibelle Group's LinkedIn profile.}

Roquette Beauté launches a sensory powder

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The editorial staff

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1 April 2025

At in-cosmetics Global, to be held in Amsterdam, the Netherlands, from April 8 to 10, 2025, Roquette Beauté unveiled its new ingredient, Beauté by Roquette ST 305, an alternative to mineral and synthetic powders.

Beauté by Roquette ST 305 (Inci Amylopectin), responds to market trends and consumer demand for longer-lasting, high-performance cosmetics. This ingredient, derived from GMO-free waxy corn starch, comes in the form of a biodegradable white sensory powder, free from talc and nanoparticles.

Beauté by Roquette ST 305 boasts a patent-pending porous structure obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis, giving it exceptional compacting properties compared with other natural powders on the market.

The sensory and compaction properties of Beauté by Roquette ST 305, as well as its affinity with various oils and water, give cosmetics formulators the flexibility to create innovative, high-performance products in a wide range of cosmetic applications, including make-up, skin care, hygiene products, hair care and fragrances, in either loose or compact formats.

Maintaining color integrity

Beauté by Roquette ST 305 stands out for its ability to maintain color integrity. Roquette Beauté states that "during tests¹This ingredient has demonstrated superior color retention, outperforming native corn starch and matching the performance of talc and porous silica beads. This benefit minimizes the need for additional pigments, making it an economical and attractive solution for make-up products. In addition, Beauté by Roquette ST 305¹ is brighter than talc, silica and porous silica, while being less yellow than other natural sensory powders derived from native corn starch."

Matte finish and shine control

Beauté by Roquette ST 305 has the ideal mattifying power for cosmetics with a matte finish, such as lipsticks. Test results² have demonstrated, according to Roquette Beauté, that "this sensory powder significantly reduces shine, providing a flawless matte finish to make-up products. In foundation formulas, Beauté by Roquette ST 305 reduced shine by 96 % compared with a placebo.³. "

According to Roquette Beauté, its sebum absorption capacity³ are also superior to those of native corn starch and silica beads, and comparable to those of poly methyl methacrylate (PMMA).

What's more, at a concentration of 65 % in a loose powder formulation, Beauté by Roquette ST 305 proved capable of smoothing crow's feet, blurring the eye contour and improving skin texture, guaranteeing a flawless, youthful appearance.

"We are very proud to add Beauté by Roquette ST 305 to our range.says Bénédicte Courel, General Manager of Roquette Beauté. This new ingredient is a real game-changer, responding to the growing demand from the cosmetics industry for high-quality plant-derived ingredients. The exceptional sensory and compaction properties of Beauté by Roquette ST 305, and its affinity with various oils and water, give formulators the flexibility to create high-performance products in a wide variety of cosmetic applications."

The Roquette Beauté team has designed exclusive formulations highlighting Beauté by Roquette ST 305, to enable visitors to in-Cosmetics Global to discover the sensory and compaction properties of this new ingredient on their stand 5D130.

_{1. The impact of sensory powders on the color and brightness of a formula was measured using a BYK spectrophotometer. L represents color brightness on a scale from 0 to 100.}

_{2. The cling test was measured using the Byko-Charts protocol.}

_{3. For the study of sebum absorption, sebum was modeled by caprylic/capric triglyceride oil. This oil was chosen because it approximates the natural oils produced by the skin, enabling a realistic assessment of the powder's performance in controlling shine and maintaining a matte finish.}

Esxence 2025: a success!

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The editorial staff

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March 31, 2025

The 15th edition of Esxence - The Art Perfumery Event, an international event dedicated to artistic perfumery, was held from February 19 to 22, 2025 in Milan, Italy.

According to its organizers, this year's event was a great success: some 13,500 participants from all over the world were able to admire a line-up of 384 brands from 38 countries, and attend several events, round tables and conferences that were also open to the public. Many young people attended the event.

Edition after edition, Esxence has proved to be an important meeting place for discovering new trends in artistic perfumery. In terms of olfactory notes, exotic fruits - such as mango, pineapple, banana and maracuja - were in the spotlight.

Asian brands, particularly those from South Korea, Vietnam, China, Singapore and Japan, were increasingly present, taking participants on a fascinating journey through distant traditions and cultures.

New formats for well-known fragrances were also presented, confirming a growing trend: the search for practical, easy-to-carry formats, so you can always have your favorite fragrance with you.

Synthetic molecules, which have long suffered from a bad reputation and have sometimes been considered a taboo, are now not only fully integrated into many compositions, but are also displayed within olfactory pyramids.

Finally, the event demonstrated that the trend is consolidating in favor of a state of inner well-being and psychophysical balance, by no longer limiting oneself to wearing a single fragrance as an olfactory signature, but changing fragrances according to one's mood.

"This 15th edition was the most successful ever, points out Maurizio Cavezzali, co-founder of Esxence and CEO of Equipe Exibit, thanks not only to the content on offer, but also to the quality of the participants, all of whom were extremely well prepared and attentive to emerging trends. This year, there was a significant improvement in stand space, with a 30 % increase in demand for bare space, a clear sign of maturity on the part of brands, who have invested even more in originality and creativity in the presentation of their products. It's not just the fragrances, bottles and packaging that shine with their uniqueness, but also the entire concept and communication, which play a central role in the creative process, telling fascinating, far-flung stories, arousing deep, engaging emotions. We had the opportunity to see a greengrocer's counter, vending machines, an old-fashioned train carriage, a beautiful antique library and walls that realistically tell the story of certain brands. "

"In 18 years and 15 editions of Esxence, we have become an essential international reference point and central event, able to offer growth opportunities to brands of all nationalities. We have nurtured new markets, with motivated retailers who have subsequently given rise to structured forms of specialized distribution.says Silvio Levi, co-founder of Esxence and director of Essencional, who organized and coordinated the workshops and conferences with the Exibit team. I'm particularly proud of this edition of Esxence, which confirms the extraordinary dynamism of the market and the capacity for innovation that will shape the sector over the next decade. In addition to being a launch and business development platform, Esxence provides visitors and operators with content, analysis and information tools, facilitating knowledge between cultural institutions, opinion leaders and ensuring constant comparison, with the aim of nurturing and evolving our market."

Esxence 2025, in brief

Some 13,500 participants
384 brands, divided into 107 main brands and 277 flagship brands
38 brand countries of origin (including some new entries: Thailand, Barbados, Lithuania and Latvia)
17,400 m2 of exhibition space
70 % of foreign exhibitors out of total number of exhibitors
76 % of operators out of total visitors
43 foreign operators from Brazil, China, South Korea, the United Arab Emirates, Japan, India, Mexico and the United States, thanks to the support of the ITA - Italian Trade Agency.
24 conferences and meetings hosted by some of the world's most renowned experts.

Valentino Beauty chooses Aptar Beauty's Classic Inune pump

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The editorial staff

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March 31, 2025

All seven fragrances (30 ml and 100 ml sizes) in Anatomy of Dreams, Valentino Beauty's new fragrance collection inspired by the hedonistic spirit of Rome, are equipped with the Classic Inune prestige fragrance pump from dispensing systems specialist Aptar Beauty.

Both the pump and the stepped ring are manufactured and decorated in Aptar Beauty's French factories.

The decoration reflects the expertise of the brand, part of the L'Oréal group's luxury division, and the collection's unique fragrance stories, which evoke memories of Italy and contemporary times. The components are tone-anodized, and the push-button is adorned with a laser-engraved 'V' after the anodizing process, revealing the natural color of the aluminum.

"Classic Inune is a best-seller in our portfolio of prestige perfume pumps. It's winning over more and more luxury houses looking for high-end, high-performance solutions that can adapt to their different collection styles while preserving their brand image".says Louise Maillot, head of the Pompes Parfums Prestige EMEA platform at Aptar Beauty.

A pump compatible with customization trends

The seven fragrances in the collection can be enhanced with two fragrance enhancers (30 ml), which can be layered or worn alone. Both enhancers use the same pump.

According to Aptar Beauty, Classic Inune's precise spray pattern lends itself perfectly to the "layering" gesture - a growing trend among fragrance consumers who personalize their fragrances as an integral part of their identity*.

"Consumers create their own bespoke fragrances with 'layering'. Collections like Anatomy of Dreams encourage them to experiment, creating more engagement with the product. Classic Inune gives them the opportunity to personalize their fragrance by helping them mix, match and explore scents, adding precise and quick fragrance touches."says Sophie Magdelaine, Senior Marketing Manager, Global Fragrance Platform, Aptar Beauty.

Suitable for the prestige market, the Classic Inune pump features an elegant, timeless design with clean, pure lines and an SNI15 neck. With its invisible, robust mechanism, it delivers a soft, fine spray, with a short spray and a 30° angle of distribution.

Classic Inune is compatible with a wide variety of formulas, including some without alcohol. The pump prevents any contact between juice and metal, preserving the olfactory neutrality of the non-genre fragrances in the Anatomy of Dreams collection.

Made without POM²Like the entire Inune range, Classic Inune can be recycled in the glass recycling stream (subject to local capacity).

_{1. Source: Mintel Report 'A year of innovation for fragrances 2024'.}_{2. Polyoxymethylene}

Lush supports the protection of key species

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The editorial staff

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March 28, 2025

hutan_bath_bomb_giving_campaign_hero_2025_2

Keystone species play a crucial role in maintaining the structure of ecological communities and global biodiversity. The cosmetics company Lush intends to support the protection of these species with a new range of products: Lush Giving. The sale of these products raises funds for projects aimed at protecting key species in priority ecosystems.

The first product in this initiative, the Hutan bath bomb (whose name comes from the Indonesian word for "forest"), launched in mid-March and available in stores throughout the month, will help preserve the primary rainforests of Simeulue, Indonesia, a vital habitat for many endangered wildlife species such as the crab-eating macaque.

75% of the sales price (excluding tax) of this bath bomb - made from revitalizing bergamot oil, sourced from citrus growers in Calabria with whom Lush has collaborated for over ten years - will be donated to EcosystemImpact, a non-profit foundation in Indonesia that studies environmental conversation issues in Sumatra.

EcosystemImpact will be working with. local organizations, including the Long-Tailed Macaque Project, to run a three-year project focused on protecting the primary forests and rich biodiversity of Simeulue Island.

The funds raised will support work to monitor the forest, establish regenerative agriculture and combat poaching and human-crab macaque conflicts on the island.

"Protecting wildlife and its natural habitat is more than preventing its extinction; it's preserving planet Earth as a home where we can, together, live side by side".explains Silvi Dwi Anasari, Community Ranger Coordinator for the EcosystemImpact Foundation.

A natural emollient and preservative booster 100 %

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The editorial staff

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March 28, 2025

Chemoxy, an affiliate of Seqens Personal Care, part of Seqens, a global player in pharmaceutical synthesis and specialty ingredients, has developed AdvensProtect 2-EHG Green, a naturally-derived ethylhexylglycerin, at its UK manufacturing site.

AdvensProtect 2-EHG Green is totally biosourced and offers a number of benefits. This multifunctional ingredient improves skin softness and hydration. It also acts against odor-causing bacteria and adds value to deodorant and personal hygiene products (deodorant effectiveness).

As a preservative booster, AdvensProtect 2-EHG Green meets the growing expectations for sustainability and performance in the skincare industry, reinforcing traditional preservatives and other antimicrobial substances.

The advantages of the AdvensProtect 2-EHG Green formulation are manifold:

Clear liquid.
Soluble in oil, miscible in water.
Independent of pH and temperature.
Ideal for cold processing.
Reinforces other traditional and multifunctional preservatives: AdvensProtect PHE, AdvensProtect 5 Green, AdvensProtect 8 Green and more.

"AdvensProtect 2-EHG Green has similar efficacy and activity to its synthetic counterpart, making it the perfect replacement."says Seqens.

Shelf life: two years, when stored under the conditions recommended in the safety data sheet. After this period, the product may be retested for a shelf-life extension if necessary.

_{Photo: DanielaElena / Pixabay}

A new ingredient derived from tomato seed waste

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The editorial staff

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March 27, 2025

Native Extracts, Australia's leading specialist in phytotechnology, and Kagome Australia, one of the largest tomato processors in the southern hemisphere, collaborate to present Red Velvet Oil: an upcycled active beauty ingredient derived from surplus tomato seed waste.

This high-performance "active" oil, packed with lycopene, phytosterols and fatty acids, offers skin care, wellness and oral care benefits.

According to the two partners, with 12mg/100g of lycopene, an antioxidant twice as effective as beta-carotene, Red Velvet Oil offers anti-aging, moisturizing and skin barrier benefits. Its profile positions it as a next-generation alternative to basic products such as Bakuchiol and Rose Hip Oil, responding to today's consumer demand for high-end, eco-sensitive products.

"This partnership illustrates Australia's most ambitious recycled ingredients initiative, the successful results achieved by forging collaborations between producers and industry, and the power of recycling waste into high-value ingredients, offering ethical brands new options to meet the demands of the growing conscious consumer culture. says Lisa Carroll, founder and CEO of Native Extracts. Red Velvet Oil is more than a beauty ingredient; it's a statement about how the Reduce, Reuse & Repurpose sustainability movement and science can come together to create real change and innovation. It's the birth of the Upcycled ingredient revolution in Australia, on a global scale, and it's not over yet."

Transforming waste

The two partners point out that Australia produces 7.6 million tonnes of food waste every year, costing the economy $36.6 billion*. Kagome Australia recovers by-products from over 200,000 tonnes of processed tomatoes each year, using the latest recovery technologies. Native Extracts is also committed to eco-friendly manufacturing, creating hydrophilic cell extracts from reused by-products and rainwater, saving 1,000 liters of public water every day. Its innovative methods reflect its commitment to minimizing waste and adopting sustainable practices.

This initiative aligns with Australia's national food waste strategy and the global circular beauty movement, to illustrate how agricultural waste can become high-value ingredients that will contribute to sustainable practices.

"Consumers increasingly want products that align with their values, explains Lisa Carroll. Red Velvet Oil helps ethical brands meet their commitment to transparency, traceability and responsible ingredient sourcing."

Red Velvet Oil will be presented at in-Cosmetics Global, to be held in Amsterdam, the Netherlands, from April 8 to 10, 2025.

_*Source:_{https://www.dcceew.gov.au/environment/protection/waste/food-waste}

_Photo:_esiuL_{/ Pixabay}

Seppic offers a natural version of its Geltrap technology

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The editorial staff

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March 27, 2025

Seppic offers a natural version of its Geltrap technology

To meet market expectations in terms of naturalness, Seppic explored the possibility of formulating a natural version of its patented Geltrap technology.

Geltrap is a technology creating a cold-formulated gel-in-oil emulsion that can be obtained with low-shear equipment. Extra-rich in water, it offers different viscosities but also the ability to stabilize all types of oily phases and provides an emollient feel, protection against dehydration and water resistance. It also offers advantages for speciﬁc applications, such as easier styling in hair care and long-lasting scent in fragranced cosmetics.

Seppic's objective: to retain the benefits of this technology for formulators and consumers while replacing the synthetic rheology modiﬁcator and emulsiﬁant that were originally recommended.

The important internal aqueous phase is thickened with Solagum GM, a non-ionic gum of 100 % natural origin.¹ derived from Glucomannan. On the other hand, the weak outer oil phase is stabilized by a liquid glycolipid emulsiﬁant system containing Fluidanov 20X, a multifunctional liquid co-emulsiﬁant also of natural 100 % origin.¹.

Solagum GM is extracted from the tubers ofAmorphophallus muelleria tropical plant also authorized in China according to the STSC². According to Seppic, it provides additional thickening and moisturizing properties, with a pleasant, soft and comfortable feel on the skin.

site-industries-cosmetiques The diagram illustrates GELTRAP™ technology, similar to an automatic draft for formulations. A magnifying glass reveals two distinct phases: an oily phase (8-20 %) in yellow and an aqueous phase (80-92 %) in blue, accompanied by water molecule diagrams. Percentages and key components are clearly indicated.

Seppic will be presenting its new technology in "Formulating bar" sessions at the In-cosmetics show in Amsterdam from April 8 to 10, 2025 (stand 5D110).

_{1. 100 % natural in accordance with ISO 16128}

_{2. Safety and Technical Standard for Cosmetics 2015}

With Cosmogen, Babytika sun cream can be applied with a brush

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The editorial staff

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March 26, 2025

site-industries-cosmetiques A child applies Babytika sunscreen to his cheek using a stick applicator at the beach. The background shows blurred sand, buildings and a blue sky. The child has short brown hair and squints slightly under the sun.

Thanks to its brush tip, Babytika SPF50+ sun cream has an applicator that makes it easy and fun for children and parents to use without touching their hands.

Cosmogen is behind the Squeeze'n Tint tube-applicator. The tube features Cosmogen's patented On/Off rotating closure system, allowing the formula to be extracted (On), applied and then closed again tightly (Off). The brush is washable in soapy water.

The Squeeze'n range had already attracted Mimitika's attention for a sun protection product designed for athletes. Since then, it has been completely redesigned so that the pack components can be separated for recycling, and the nozzle reused on another tube. Cap, tube and brush are available in recycled materials.

Industries CosmétiquesThe complete watch in cosmetic perfumery

Industries CosmétiquesThe complete watch in cosmetic perfumery

Industries CosmétiquesThe complete watch in cosmetic perfumery

Cosmetic Valley and Essec partners

Persán acquires Mibelle Group

Roquette Beauté launches a sensory powder

Maintaining color integrity

Matte finish and shine control

Esxence 2025: a success!

Valentino Beauty chooses Aptar Beauty's Classic Inune pump

A pump compatible with customization trends

Lush supports the protection of key species

A natural emollient and preservative booster 100 %

A new ingredient derived from tomato seed waste

Transforming waste

Seppic offers a natural version of its Geltrap technology

With Cosmogen, Babytika sun cream can be applied with a brush

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Industries CosmétiquesThe complete watch in cosmetic perfumery