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The Cosmetic Victories: two French projects win awards!

TCV 2025 winners Cosmetic Velley and ESSEC @Studionathsam

On May 20, 2025, at the Maison de l'Amérique Latine in Paris, six finalists selected from 94 applications from 21 countries defended their projects before an exceptional jury made up of representatives of major brands, research laboratories and international institutions.

In the Academic Research category, Muriel Priault (IBGC - CNRS Bordeaux) won over the jury with her project entitled "L'instabilité naturelle des protéines comme biomarqueur du vieillissement".

The CNRS team is exploring an innovative approach to measuring the impact of the exposome on skin aging. Specializing in the spontaneous degradation of proteins due to chemical reactions altering their structure and function, the researchers aim to demonstrate that this phenomenon could serve as a precise indicator for assessing the effects of the environment on the skin. The identification of specific proteins as new biomarkers of aging could pave the way for better prevention and adapted cosmetic solutions.

In the Industrial Innovation category, Arthur Dervillez, representing Chartres-based Loretta, took the prize. 

Loretta's project aims to create a Digital Skin Twin based on skin nanotexture, combining high-speed AFM and AI for ultra-precise analysis. Supported by a partnership between a company, a university and international dermatologists, it will exploit a diverse panel of samples. The aim is to link the nanometric characteristics of skin to its chemical composition, to revolutionize dermatological and cosmetic studies on a global scale.

Organized by Cosmetic Valley since 2015, "The Cosmetic Victories" annually rewards the most promising innovations in the fields of scientific research and industrial development in perfumery and cosmetics. 

At a time when the cosmetics industry is constantly seeking performance, sustainability and new models, the competition is a trend-setter and a springboard for emerging talent. It is open to young companies, research centers and academic laboratories in France and abroad.

A veritable barometer of innovation, each year "The Cosmetic Victories" identifies initiatives capable of sustainably transforming the value chain, from organic sourcing of ingredients to formulation, efficacy testing, manufacturing and product recycling.

For its 10th anniversary, the competition has mobilized a panel of world-class experts from industry, public research, innovation financing, professional media, innovation and higher education: Cosmetic Valley, Essec Ventures, Laurence Dorlhac, Bpifrance, CNRS, Société Française De Cosmétologie, Caudalie, Chanel, Estée Lauder, La French Beauty, Groupe Rocher, Hermès, Les Secrets de Loly, L'Oréal, LVMH Recherche, Puig, Sisley, Shiseido, Sothys, Tcel.

"This 10th anniversary edition of The Cosmetic Victories marks a symbolic milestone in our commitment to cosmetic innovation. In a particularly competitive global context, it is more essential than ever to continue to focus on research and scientific daring in order to remain at the cutting edge. This year's industrial category, made up entirely of French finalists, vividly illustrates the dynamism and capacity of our industry to offer cutting-edge solutions, combining performance, authenticity and made-in-France excellence. I would like to warmly congratulate the winners, whose projects brilliantly embody the values of innovation, rigor and creativity for which French cosmetics are internationally renowned".says Marc-Antoine Jamet, President of Cosmetic Valley and of the jury.

The two winners, recognized for their scientific excellence and industrial potential, will each receive a €10,000 prize and personalized support from Cosmetic Valley to accelerate the development of their innovation.

Wellmotion: Mane redefines the link between fragrance and emotion

Fragrances - Wellmotion

Mane recently unveiled Wellmotion, an innovative platform designed to decode, analyze and understand the emotional responses generated by fragrances.

Well-being is a key concern for brands and consumers alike. With Wellmotion, Mane, French market leader and 5th worldwide player in the fragrance and flavor sector, offers a new tool in the field of olfactory creation. Based on scientifically validated neuroscience research and made possible by the power of artificial intelligence, this exclusive platform analyzes twice as many saliva biomarkers as the usual standards, according to its designers. The idea is to capture the emotional essence of fragrances with unrivalled precision.

Reinventing the approach to fragrance creation

With Wellmotion, Mane enriches perfumers' know-how with unprecedented scientific evidence. This patented technology enables them to design perfumes that arouse the desired emotions with greater reliability.

The tool combines in a unique way the subjectivity of human perception and the objectivity of physiological signals, opening up a new dimension in the creation of fragrances capable of evoking raw sensations, evoking a memory, a face, a story, touching the heart.

This project was born of a simple idea: if emotions guide our lives, why not create fragrances capable of accompanying them, with precision and accuracy?

Much more than a perfume

"Since its creation in 1871, Mane has always been guided by a quest for excellence and science. Developed jointly with the CNRS and French biotech start-up SkillCell, Wellmotion is built on a rigorous foundation. We're redefining the olfactory experience by rethinking the way emotions are measured in real time, thanks to objective testing and unprecedented precision".the company says.

In September 2025, a peer-reviewed scientific study will present Wellmotion's methodology and results in detail. Based on the analysis of four key salivary biomarkers - a major breakthrough in non-invasive test analysis, according to Mane - the study confirms Mane's ability to predict emotional responses with a level of reliability unprecedented in the industry. This validation positions Wellmotion as both a tool and a new benchmark for fragrance formulation. "It's the missing link between the perfumers' intuition and olfactory genius, their experience and scientific precision".explains Mane.

"With Wellmotion, we're taking it a step further: we're designing fragrances that don't just evoke emotions, but reinforce them, with rigor and intention", says Caroline Dubourg, Director of R&I Consumer Goods.

By identifying the biological emotional signature specific to each creation, Wellmotion opens up new perspectives for brands: offering measurable and relevant emotional experiences, based on recognized scientific validation.

Parfums Christian Dior adopts Axilone's recycled magnets for its packaging

SAUVAGE Main_PARFUMS CHRISTIAN DIOR

Axilone, a leading manufacturer of packaging for luxury cosmetics, and Parfums Christian Dior are working together to make packaging magnets more durable. 

"Magnets account for 2.5 % of the weight composition of a fragrance such as Sauvage. However, they account for almost 25 % of the material carbon footprint of the same fragrance due to their very high specific emission factor. This is why Parfums Christian Dior adopted Axilone's recycled magnet solution to reduce the carbon footprint of magnets by 40 %."explains Philippe Renault, Director of Innovation and Packaging Development at Parfums Christian Dior.

Magnets are the key element in creating the "click" effect on closing and the signature sound of each brand. However, they require the use of rare-earth elements. In the luxury packaging industry, the challenge is to preserve magnetic functionality while reducing the environmental footprint of magnets. With particular constraints: magnets need to be very small and therefore have high magnetic power as well as multiple polarization options. Because they meet these requirements and have a high magnetic density, neodymium-based magnets are the preferred choice for beauty product packaging.

"Rare earths are one of the most significant elements in the environmental impact of magnets, which is why we decided to focus on this specific point and look for post-consumer recycling solutions."says Reynald Trochel, Director of Innovation at Axilone.

Axilone now offers packaging solutions incorporating magnets made from several 100 % PCR recycled rare earths, reducing the carbon footprint of magnets by 40 % worldwide.

In collaboration with long-standing partners, the packaging manufacturer has brought to the beauty market this principle of Neodymium-Iron-Boron magnets made from certified 100 % PCR rare earths, while retaining their functional characteristics in terms of pull-out force, polarization possibilities, magnetic field density, resistance to mechanical shock and corrosion, and virtually infinite service life... In addition to the durable characteristics of these rare earths, the magnets are manufactured in compliance with the strictest social and environmental standards.

A collective commitment to the environment

Axilone has placed CSR at the heart of its strategy and values, and has partnered with leading brands to develop sustainable solutions without compromising the luxury and differentiation of packaging, such as specific gestures or the ability to orient packaging elements to highlight a logo or fit into an overall design and concept.

"There is no longer any doubt that the new luxury must be sustainable, says Laurent Fontaine, Axilone's Sales Directorand the most prestigious beauty brands undeniably use it as their spearhead. So it was both natural and exciting to build this magnetic approach with Parfums Christian Dior.

The long-standing partnership between Parfums Christian Dior and Axilone enables the co-development of ever more virtuous packaging solutions: these magnets made from PCR-certified recycled 100% rare earths will soon be used on the caps of Sauvage 60 ml and 200 ml bottles. PCR certification will offer genuine traceability to consumers, who are increasingly concerned about the sustainability of the packaging they buy.

Verescence announces the arrival of new shareholders

Verescence

Verescence (2,500 employees worldwide by 2024), specialist in glass bottles for the perfume and cosmetics industries, announces the arrival of the consortium made up of Movendo Capital and Draycott, two family investment holdings, as the group's new shareholder.

Formerly the luxury flaconnage division of Saint-Gobain Desjonquères, owned since 2019 by London-based private equity firm Stirling Square Capital Partners, Verescence is positioned as a preferred partner of the beauty industry's leading brands. 

With 130 years of glassmaking expertise, the French company produces 600 million bottles a year at its four production sites and five finishing facilities in Europe, North America and Asia. 

"We are delighted with the arrival of new shareholders who support our strategy, investment plans and sustainability program, including our decarbonization roadmap. We are convinced that this project is positive for all our employees, customers and partners."comments Thomas Riou, President of Verescence.

"We are delighted to acquire a global leader with a strong and experienced management team, perfectly aligned with our value creation strategy. Verescence's industry-leading position matches our investment criteria in several key dimensions. By combining management's expertise with our own, we aim for sustainable growth and value creation for all stakeholders."says João Coelho Borges, founding partner of Draycott, and Pedro Pereira Gonçalves, CEO of Movendo.

Movendo Capital is a Netherlands-based investment company operating in Europe and the United States. Draycott is a Portuguese investment management company.

Photo taken from the Verescence website.

Valentino's Spike collection adopts Cosmogen's mini lipstick

COSMOGEN - Valentino mini Lipstick

Cosmogen, which created the Spike Valentino matte lipstick case, has also designed the brand's mini lipsticks.

Valentino Beauty's brand now has a format suited to travel retail and discovery boxes, offering a no-use option. This economical format also makes it easier to offer several shades at an affordable price, a demand expressed in particular by GenZ.

With a capacity of 1.4g, the mechanism is fully customizable and adaptable to meet the industrial constraints of brands.

An iconic case for an iconic lipstick
Spike Valentino, Valentino Beauty's iconic refillable matte lipstick in 13 shades, is presented in a square-section golden aluminum case designed by Cosmogen. The brand and its logo are embossed on the base and top of the lipstick respectively.

Charlotte Franceries to join Amoéba's Board of Directors

Amoeba

Amoéba, an industrial greentech specializing in the development of natural microbiological solutions based on the patented exploitation of amoebae, announces that its Board of Directors has unanimously decided to present Charlotte Franceries as a candidate for the position of Director at the next Annual General Meeting, to be held on June 26, 2025. Her forthcoming appointment to the Board would be a major event for Amoéba, which would then benefit from the multiple expertise of a personality with extensive skills in the cosmetics and beauty industry, ranging from general management of international companies to international marketing and communications.

A graduate of EM Lyon, Charlotte Franceries worked for over 25 years in the L'Oréal group, where she began her career in international marketing management for the Vichy brand and then for L'Oréal Paris skin care. She went on to become International General Manager of Biotherm, General Manager France of Yves-Saint-Laurent Beauté and, after a spell at the head of the Roger et Gallet brand, International General Manager of L'Oréal Paris, the Group's largest and most prestigious subsidiary.

She joined the McCann Group's French agency seven years ago, and is now its President. The McCann Group is one of the world's leading advertising and communications agencies, present in over 100 countries worldwide. Within the Group, Ms Franceries is also responsible for the L'Oréal account worldwide.

"I'm delighted to be joining Amoéba's Board of Directors, and I'd like to thank its members for their confidence. I was convinced by Amoéba's great potential for innovation, and in particular by the innovative and highly promising nature of its cosmetic ingredient. The company has unique know-how, and I look forward to contributing to the strategic choices that will shape the company's future, in particular by giving it the benefit of my specific knowledge of the world of cosmetics and communication".said Charlotte Franceries. 

"We are very proud and honoured to welcome Charlotte Franceries to our Board of Directors. Her impressive experience acquired in marketing and general management positions within the L'Oréal group, enriched by her complete mastery of advertising and communication techniques acquired at the head of the McCann France group, will enable our Amoéba business to benefit from new skills, complementary business approaches and fresh strategic visions. Over and above the obvious benefits that Ms Franceries' arrival will bring to our cosmetics business, which is in the process of being launched, her experience will benefit all our activities, including biocontrol".said Benoît Villers, Chairman of Amoéba's Board of Directors.

Derma Series: an Aptar Beauty offering for dermocosmetics brands

site-industries-cosmetiques A row of fourteen white Brouillon skincare bottles and containers, of various sizes and shapes, each labeled in blue, arranged in a row on a plain white background. The containers are labelled "Derma series".

To meet the demands of the dynamic dermocosmetics market, Aptar Beauty, a global specialist in dispensing technologies, launches Derma Series, a range of high-performance solutions.

The dermocosmetics and aesthetic medicine markets are booming. This trend is set to continue, as more and more of the world's population suffer from skin sensitivity due to the deleterious effects of environmental conditions and lifestyles. Brands and companies are increasingly investing in skin health-related fields such as the microbiome, the exosome, or in research into longevity and connected health.

The new generation of skin care and treatments is deeply rooted in science and dermatology. Working alone or in partnership with dermatologists, plastic surgeons or laboratories, dermocosmetics brands are bringing sophisticated, increasingly premium formulas to market, requiring careful attention to packaging and distribution.

To meet market needs by adapting to specific formulas, Aptar Beauty launches Derma Series. "We quickly detected a real need for solutions that went beyond the usual requirements for beauty product packaging, says Xavier Joseph, Vice-President, Marketing and Global Innovation at Aptar Beauty. We went straight to the source and talked to our key customers and dermatologists, who shared with us their problems and how we could help them solve them. Some were product-related, others related to production capacity. We found that we were able to offer real added value thanks to the breadth of our services and our in-depth understanding of this fast-growing market."

High-performance solutions for the dermocosmetics market

Aptar Beauty's proactive research shows that dermocosmetic formulations require a high level of precision and protection to preserve and enhance product performance and the consumer experience. Design and decoration are also important for the medical "look and feel" and require differentiating packaging, particularly for premium brands.

Brands must both put the user experience at the heart of their innovations and take into account regulatory requirements. For medical devices, they are also looking for solutions that support patient adherence to treatment.

"Our market analysis confirmed that we not only offer the right product technologies for key categories, but we also offer added value in inclusive design, materials science know-how and connected solutions. As part of the AptarGroup, we are in a unique position to draw on Aptar Pharma's knowledge and experience in medical devices and pharmaceutical distribution systems. This combination of expertise, technology platforms and large-scale technical capabilities proves that Aptar Beauty has what it takes to be the unique partner for user experience in Derma."says Xavier Joseph.

Derma Series includes airless packaging and dispensing systems, cosmetic pumps, droppers, lotion pumps, sprays and aerosols to meet the specifications of the dermocosmetics market.  

- Formula protection

Airless technology offers a high level of compatibility and protection for even the most fragile cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulas. Aptar Beauty's best-selling airless products, Micro and Mezzo, are fully recyclable.1 and available in a wide range of sustainable materials, including PCR (Post-Consumer Recycled Resin). 

- Dosing accuracy

For high-precision dispensing of ultra-liquid formulas such as serums, Star Drop promises an optimized user experience thanks to adjustable drop-by-drop dosing. The PZ Twist spray pump features a twist-lock system, and offers ample finger space for easy application, ideal for sun protection formulas. For precise dispensing of sprays and mists, Tina is the perfect aerosol, offering a modern design with clean, straight lines. 

- Sustainable materials

Every Derma Series packaging is compatible with a wide range of sustainable, recyclable and recycled materials. Some solutions are single-material, like the Future lotion pump, made entirely of PE (polyethylene) and recyclable.1which also offers an e-commerce-friendly twist-lock mechanism.

- Premium trim and decor options

The Derma Series offers a wide range of customization options and premium decorations to reinforce brand identity. Like the Evolux metal cosmetic pump, whose pump system avoids any contact with metal to ensure optimum compatibility with the formula. These systems are also compatible with glass bottles.

A comprehensive offer

In addition to products, Aptar offers a range of integrated services thanks to its cross-disciplinary expertise and technical capabilities.

In synergy with Aptar Pharma, Aptar Beauty invests in research into user experience and human factor design. The Group has developed a global network of laboratories in France (InVisionLab), the United States and China, to test these designs and concepts.

Artificial intelligence and technology are used to predict compatibility between formula and pump, and to optimize pharmaceutical formulations. They are also used to explore new territories using simulation and rapid prototyping software.

With its expertise in the 3Rs (recycle, reduce and reuse), Aptar Beauty offers single-material solutions to promote recyclability, while developing models for reusable or refillable solutions. 

With over 30 years' experience supporting customers in their regulatory submissions, the company also holds ISO 13485 certification to develop medical devices and distribution solutions in line with market requirements.

Connected solutions linked to a digital health platform can be offered by the manufacturer to support patient adherence to treatment use, improving outcomes and quality of life for patients.

"Dermocosmetic products meet a real and growing need. These formulas are constantly evolving, and include ever more powerful active ingredients or little or no preservatives. As a leader in our field, we need to ensure that the packaging provides optimum protection and compatibility. Our holistic "product & service" approach enables us to accompany these brands in their launch, as a unique partner for the distribution of dermocosmetic products".concludes Xavier Joseph.

1. When combined with a PE (Polyethylene) or PET (Polyethylene Terephtalate) bottle

Onélogy, when beauty becomes freeze-dried

Onélogy

Founded between Paris and New York, Onélogy offers serums in freeze-dried pellets that can be activated in the palm of the hand with 5 to 10 drops of water. In just a few seconds, the tablet transforms into a serum to be applied directly to the skin. This unique patented format combines cutting-edge technology, proven efficacy, ease of use and reduced environmental impact.

The project is the brainchild of beauty marketing expert Roxana Bazgoneh. After more than ten years spent observing the inner workings of the cosmetics industry, she imagined a skincare line based on three pillars: transparency, performance and responsibility. Onélogy was born of this desire to go straight to the heart of the matter, offering pure, active and respectful formulas in a fun, on-the-go format that fits naturally into everyday life.

Technology inspired by the pharmaceutical world

The heart of Onélogy lies in its unique format: freeze-dried serum tablets, stabilized by a process derived from the pharmaceutical sector. Unlike conventional liquid serums, which can lose up to 50 % of their efficacy in 60 days, freeze-drying preserves the integrity of the active ingredients until they are activated with water, according to the brand. "This technology makes each dose self-preserving, with no need for preservatives or complex packaging.says Onélogy. As a result, our products have no conventional expiration date, guaranteeing optimal efficacy every time, even months after production.

A range of five high-precision serums formulated with dermatologists to meet specific skin needs is already available. Designed to be used on their own or in synergy, these products under the name Megadose are ideal for sensitive skin, offering an effective, clean and customizable response.

HPR-Retinoid Serum 0.3 % is a regenerating night-time treatment targeting signs of aging, excess sebum, imperfections, skin texture and uneven skin tone.

Peptides-Cu 0.6 % Serum plumps to smooth and firm the appearance of wrinkles, while refining skin tone and texture.

Sérum Niacinamide 2 % is a protective treatment targeting excess sebum, redness, graininess and uneven skin tone, while stimulating hydration.

PAD Azelaic 5 % Serum is a corrective treatment to improve the appearance of blemishes, breakouts, redness and uneven skin tone.

Sérum Alpha Arbutin 2 % brightens to fade brown spots, discoloration and uneven skin tone.

Formulated and manufactured in France, Onélogy skincare products are suitable for sensitive skin. They contain no fragrances, colorants, mineral oils, silicone, allergens or controversial ingredients. Vegan, cruelty-free, non-comedogenic and hypoallergenic, they are part of a clean and committed formulation approach.

ICPI Week: "The cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries are increasingly converging through high-functionality products like cosmeceuticals".

site-industries-cosmetiques Two men are sitting on a black bench, chatting at a business event. One is wearing a suit and badge, the other a blazer and jeans. A blue banner with commercial slogans, including "Brouillon auto", is visible in the background.

As part of ICPI Week, the organizers shared their insights on the local cosmetics market. Interview of James Kim, VP of the organizatiom company.

What are the main reasons for organizing ICPI Week, and how are you positioning it internationally versus locally?

ICPI Week is a convergence exhibition that spans the entire value chain of the bio, pharmaceutical, and cosmetics industries-from development and production to logistics. It promotes collaboration across diverse sectors and is growing into Asia's largest convergence industry platform.

Which trade shows under ICPI Week are the most dynamic, and what factors make them stand out?

CI KOREA is a platform covering the entire cosmetics manufacturing process, from raw materials to packaging and automation. It is particularly strong in raw materials and testing/analysis technologies. COPHEX focuses on shared issues in the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries-such as GMP, quality control, and production automation-and enhances synergies by reflecting the cosmeceutical (dermo-cosmetic) trend, thereby blurring the boundaries between the two industries.

What are the motivations for companies to exhibit in the cosmetics sector at CI Korea, and what role does the cosmetics industry play in the local economy?

CI KOREA is a product development-oriented B2B exhibition that connects companies with domestic and international buyers and provides access to the latest technologies and ingredients. Participating companies attend to pursue global expansion, promote their products, and find business partners. The exhibition also delivers significant economic ripple effects for the cosmetics industry, such as job creation and increased exports.

What synergies exist between the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries, and what major concerns are Korean manufacturers facing?

The cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries are increasingly converging through high-functionality products like cosmeceuticals. Shared technologies such as drug delivery systems (DDS), bio-based ingredients, skin absorption technologies, and GMP systems contribute to mutual growth. A notable example of cross-industry technology exchange is the trend of repurposing drug candidates as cosmetic ingredients.

Are any standout innovations being unveiled at ICPI Week, and what are your views on French-made cosmetics and pharmaceuticals?

Technological innovations such as AI-driven product development and bio-based sustainable materials have garnered attention. French cosmetics remain highly popular due to their premium image, sustainability, and emotional appeal, especially in the clean beauty trend, where French brands continue to hold strong competitiveness.

Expanscience launches its first nutraceutical active ingredient

Tulsi

Laboratoires Expanscience, a family-owned French SME with expertise in dermocosmetics, rheumatology and active cosmetics, is turning a new page in its history by targeting the nutraceuticals market. 

Tulsinity Bio, their very first nutraceutical active ingredient, has been developed to protect the skin from the effects of psychological stress. It is being previewed at Vitafoods Europe - a major international event for the nutraceutical industry - taking place in Barcelona from May 20 to 22, 2025.

The active ingredient is developed from the leaves of tulsi, also known as holy basil, which is certified organic and grown in India according to the most stringent standards of regenerative agriculture (labelled "organic"). Regenerative Organic Certified) and fair trade (labelled Fair for Life). This supply enables Expanscience to develop and offer its customers an active ingredient that is certified AB (Agriculture Biologique), ROC and FFL.

In Ayurvedic medicine, tulsi, the sacred plant, is particularly renowned for its benefits to the mind and soul. Its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and immunostimulant properties make it a plant-based raw material of choice to contribute to daily well-being, and in particular to limit the negative impact of stress.

Inspired by ayurveda, and aligned with the company's mission " to help individuals shape their own well-being".Tulsinity Bio aims to improve the skin's elasticity, density and cutaneous barrier in the face of daily stress, bringing overall well-being.

This launch marks a strategic step for Expanscience, which intends to conquer this market by focusing on a differentiating axis, combining expertise in natural cosmetic active ingredients and pharmaceutical requirements. Over the next ten years, Expanscience aims to make its nutraceutical active ingredients business just as important as its cosmetic active ingredients business.

Growing demand for transparency and naturalness

"At Expanscience, a mission-driven and B Corp-certified (company), we are committed to becoming a regenerative company by placing fair trade and regenerative agriculture at the heart of our actions for a positive and more sustainable impact.
Our positioning should enable us to differentiate ourselves from other players and to meet consumers' growing expectations in terms of transparency.explains Armelle Le Péniec, Director of Active Cosmetics and Nutraceuticals.

Laboratoires Expanscience points out that the nutraceuticals market is growing fast. It represents more than 2.9 million euros.1 in France, one of the European leaders, and over 212 billion in the United States. This trend is driven by the growing demands of consumers, who are increasingly concerned about their well-being and seek to prevent rather than cure. The market is also showing a growing demand for eco-socially-responsible, more natural products.

1. Source IQVIA 2025
2. Source Euromonitor 2024

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