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A 100 % PET lipstick, refillable and recyclable.

Pure Kiss - Albéa

"Our goal for 2025 is to offer beauty brands a standard range of refillable lipstick packs made from materials that promote packaging recycling."explains Laëtitia Beavogui, Marketing Manager at Albéa Cosmetics & Fragrance. 

Pure Kiss, made entirely from PET, meets these specifications, ticking all the boxes for packaging with reduced environmental impact. This single-material lipstick is recyclable. Elegant and discreet according to its designers, its square shape incorporates the Unigreen mechanism, a new 100 % PET mechanism also composed of three parts. Refillable at the click of a button, UniGreen is designed to allow slight rotation. Its non-guided mechanism can only be used if snapped into the lipstick base.

Pure Kiss adapts to different types of formulas while offering cosmetics brands a customizable solution to help them achieve their sustainability objectives.

Microphyt launches a 3-in-1 active ingredient to erase skin imperfections

Microphyt DunaPure

Microphyt develops, produces and markets microalgae-based solutions for health and beauty. Its new ingredient, DunaPure, provides a new 3-in-1 skin perfecting solution that respects the natural balance of the epidermis for a clearer, healthier-looking complexion. 

Developed for skin with imperfections, DunaPure is an active ingredient derived from arctic microalgae that works synergistically to reduce imperfections, while preserving the skin's health and homeostasis.

"Stimulated by the popularity of beauty filters on social networks, consumer demand for a flawless complexion has never been so widespread. These filters, which aim to mask imperfections such as clogged and dilated pores, redness and marks, have significantly influenced the way consumers perceive beauty today, with a growing number looking to replicate the effect of these filters beyond the digital realm, in their daily routine."says the company.

According to Microphyt, the majority of conventional anti-blemish active ingredients available today often cause skin irritation, sensitization or photosensitivity. To meet this challenge, the company based in the south of France has developed a gentle skincare solution that respects the skin's integrity.

The benefits of DunaPure: a bio-inspired active ingredient that concentrates the astringent potential of an Arctic microalgae; a 3-in-1 solution for blemish-prone skin: purifies, soothes and reduces marks; a gentle active ingredient that respects the skin's balance: non-irritating, non-sensitizing, non-photosensitive.

The key to this asset is a highly adaptable green microalgae, the Dunaliella tertiolectawhose strong astringent and protective properties enable it to live in a variety of environments, from fresh to salt water. These adaptogenic properties, together with the protective and regenerative effects of lutein and phycosterols, anticipate environmental fluctuations. Used in DunaPure, Dunaliella tertiolectaAccording to Microphyt, it reduces the impact of the exposome on the skin, purifying pores and reducing redness and marks. The microalgae are cultivated using Microphyt's hydro-biomimetic photobioreactors, which enable the total control and cultivation of Dunaliella tertiolecta under optimum conditions. 

Generation "Alpha": a target that can be influenced

Kantar - Gen Alpha

Pre-teens - the "Gen Alpha" born from 2010 onwards - represent a new audience for skincare brands. Research company Kantar highlights the growing impact of these new consumers on the beauty industry. A phenomenon that is sparking lively debate, particularly in the media and online. 

New routines

According to Kantar, pre-teens are incorporating more and more ancillary products into their routine, with a notable increase in the use of night creams (+ 22 %), face serums (+ 125 %), and products targeting specific problems (+ 34 %), as well as products for wrinkles (+ 9 %), and solutions for tired or dull skin (+ 10 %). Face wash (+ 9 %) and moisturizing face cream (+ 5 %) for girls aged 11 to 16 are also up on last year.

Sun protection products are also on the increase, with 26 % growth in use.

The study also reveals a strong interest among young consumers in recommendations from social media influencers when choosing moisturizers, with an increase of 17 % in this area.

"These data underline the importance for beauty companies to respond responsibly to the needs of this emerging generation by not pushing them to consume. It will be their duty to accompany and educate them in the face of the misuse and unbridled consumption of this impressionable target".analyses Kantar.

Kantar study methodology: WorldPanel Usage, December 2023 and 2024 / Targets: Women aged 11-16 / Countries: GB, ES, FR, DE, BR, US.

Innovative developments in zinc oxide

Eclipse G1 Granules - Uviva Technologies

German company Uviva Technologies (Grillo Group) has developed a form of zinc oxide that simplifies the formulation process for cosmetic ingredients. Eclipse G1 Granules was presented at in-cosmetics Global 2024, held in Paris from April 16 to 18.

Eclipse G1 Granules prevents the formation of dust when adding powder to mixing containers, while maintaining the same quality and performance expected of Eclipse zinc oxide. According to Uviva Technologies, this innovative product is the first of its kind on the market, "setting a new standard for cosmetic ingredients."

The granulated form of Eclipse G1 simplifies the formulation process without compromising performance. Eclipse G1 granules are composed of 100 % zinc oxide, with no added additives, without compromising the composition of the final formula.

"We're delighted to introduce Eclipse G1 Granules to the cosmetics and suncare industries.said Jeroen van den Bosch, Managing Director of Uviva Technologies. This revolutionary product represents a long-awaited breakthrough in zinc oxide technology. The combination of ease of use and dust prevention without the need to work with dispersions is a revolutionary new way for formulators to work with zinc oxide while retaining total formulation freedom."

"Working with zinc oxide granules offers a seamless formulation experience while delivering exceptional results. This is an advantage for all formulators."says Mattia Battistin, formulator at Kalis.

Eco-responsible hospitality products for hotels

GM Group

As part of its "Care About Earth" program, Groupe GM, a global specialist in sustainable hotel hospitality products, has declared its ambition to completely eliminate virgin plastic derived from fossil fuels in favor of more sustainable materials such as recycled or plant-based materials.

Several new products

The group has just launched the first cardboard tube for the hotel sector. This packaging - which, according to the company, helps reduce the use of plastic by 99 % compared with conventional plastic tubes - can be customized to meet the specific wishes of hoteliers.

Groupe GM has also launched a complete range of 0 % plastic accessories, made from bio-sourced, recyclable and sustainable materials, to offer an alternative to hotels wishing to adopt environmentally-friendly practices.

The collection includes bamboo combs and toothbrushes, as well as solid shaving soaps, innovative toothpaste pills, cotton buds and cottons, and a paper-based sewing kit adorned with a mother-of-pearl button. Slippers, made from cotton canvas and cardboard, all certified 0 % plastic by SGS, are also available.

All items in the 0 % plastic line are packaged in recycled paper envelopes that retain their natural color, without chemical bleaching, and are printed with soy-based ink. This makes the packaging entirely recyclable, and reduces the environmental impact associated with conventional petroleum-based inks.

Groupe GM also offers other innovative solutions. These include large-format refillable dispensers, called Ecofill, with a maximum capacity of 400 ml. In addition to having a lower environmental impact, an Ecofill dispenser is, according to GM Group, safer than a traditional bulk filling system, thanks to its sealed refill pouches of just 8 g recyclable plastic that prevent bacterial contamination, ensuring product origin, quality and traceability.

Groupe GM also offers solid products such as traditional soaps, shampoos, shower gels and conditioners. These 100 % plastic-free products use nine times less water in their production. In addition, the Group works with the Unisoap association in France to collect traditional soaps from hotels and give them a second life by recycling them for humanitarian purposes.

Care About Earth: a responsible program

Since its creation in 2018, the "Care About Earth" program has enabled the GM Group to affirm its commitment to eco-innovation and its leadership in promoting sustainable practices within the global hospitality industry.

"GM Group prioritizes green resources, focusing on the reuse and reduction of fossil fuel-derived plastics. The main initiative, eco-design, aims to reduce waste and preserve scarce resources." Every stage in product development incorporates environmental considerations, from raw material sourcing to recycling. 

An airless bottle combining luxury and durability

Quadpack - Crystal-Ballet

Crystal Ballet, Quadpack's new refillable pack, is made from recyclable materials. Composed of a refillable double wall, it features a glass bottle. Its elegant design houses powerful airless technology.

Every component is made from recyclable materials, from the outer glass bottle to the inner refill, pump and cap. According to Quadpack's PIP (Positive Impact Packaging) rating system, based on comprehensive life-cycle analyses, Crystal Ballet displays an advanced level of sustainability.

Sturdy, transparent and "cool to the touch", glass adds an upscale touch. A range of decorative techniques can be applied. Brands can also play with the double-walled structure for a solution that suits their DNA.

The internal components (refill cartridge, pump motor and cap) are made of PP, while the refill cap is made of PE. The airless pump is entirely metal-free. All components can be easily dismantled for recycling.

Given the impact of glass on product weight, Quadpack has opted for smaller capacities for face products: 15, 20, 30 and 50 ml. Airless technology protects the integrity of the formula and guarantees low wastage, thanks to its high restitution rate. With a precise dosage of 0.20 cc per squeeze, this pack is suitable for skin care and dermocosmetic formulas, such as treatments and moisturizers.

Syensqo acquires ceramide specialist JinYoung Bio

Syensqo - JinYoung Bio

Syensqo, Solvay's specialty chemicals group, has announced the acquisition of JinYoung Bio, a South Korean supplier of specialty ingredients for cosmetics.

Syensqo thus strengthens its position in the skin care and biotechnology markets, moving towards more natural, high value-added specialty ingredients, composed of both active and functional ingredients.

"This acquisition demonstrates our deep commitment to innovation and our focus on sustainable solutions based on the power of biotechnology. We are determined to make a significant impact on the cosmetics industry by tackling critical issues, both environmental and societal, through pioneering circular solutions."says Ilham Kadri, CEO of Syensqo.

The addition of JinYoung Bio's technologies enriches Syensqo's product portfolio with biomimetic ceramides for hair and skin care applications, and a range of functional ingredients of natural origin to meet the needs of the skin care, hair care and make-up markets. 

Ceramides, JinYoung Bio's flagship product range, are obtained by a white chemistry process, fermentation, in line with the work of Syensqo's biotechnology and renewable materials development platform.

"Our goal is to provide our customers with cutting-edge solutions for skincare applications that harness the natural power of specialty ingredients like ceramides. This investment positions Syensqo as a key player in the dynamic market for ceramides, reference ingredients in beauty, including dermocosmetics, which are currently enjoying strong growth".says Michael Radossich, President of Syensqo's Consumer and Resources division.

JinYoung Bio's technical and commercial capabilities will be developed by Syensqo thanks to its proximity to customers worldwide, its technical, applicative and formulatory expertise, and its marketing and regulatory skills.

The first product in Syensqo's ceramides range, along with four functional ingredients, will be presented in the second quarter of 2024, at Supplier's Day in New York. 

The stated aim of Syensqo's Home & Beauty Care business is to grow twice as fast as the market. 

Silab's Inclusium wins award

Silab - ICIC_Award

On Thursday April 25, at the International Cosmetics Innovation Conference (Icic) in Shanghai, Silab won the Icic Award in the Raw Material Innovation category for its Inclusium multifunctional natural active ingredient. 

Inclusium is a multifunctional natural active ingredient that stimulates the biological pathways essential to epidermal and dermal functionality. To develop this ingredient, Silab turned its attention to inclusive beauty. The company began by taking stock of consumers' main skin characteristics in terms of ethnicity, gender and age. 

Three expectations stand out: beautiful skin quality, an even, radiant complexion and reduced signs of aging. To meet these needs, Inclusium offers a broad spectrum of cosmetic benefits to enhance all skin types. 

"The development of this active ingredient called on a wide range of in-house expertise, including tissue engineering and omics. But it was above all from a clinical point of view that the work was colossal. Silab chose to take into account the specific concerns of each ethnic group, which is why five clinical studies were specifically designed in consultation with experts from four different countries, explains 

Brigitte Closs-Gonthier, Chairman of the Board and General Manager in charge of R&D, quality and communications at Silab. We're delighted to receive this award, which recognizes the extensive work we've done to develop a natural active ingredient capable of meeting universal cosmetic expectations, both quickly and over the long term.

The company states on its website that this ingredient meets universal cosmetic expectations thanks to its hydra-smoothing and complexion-perfecting properties after seven days of application, and its clinically-proven anti-ageing effect.

Ultra-compact digital gilding equipment

Kurz_dm_smartliner

Kurz, a global specialist in thin-film technology, makes metallization accessible with its compact DM-Smartliner digital metallization unit.

"It all starts with toner or electro-ink. Then follows a simple 'decalcomania'-type process; where there's ink, there's digital gilding with perfect registration. The technology is not new, but what is new is the optical quality and speed.says Kurz.

The DM-Smartliner comes with a predefined color chart. The customer can easily choose color, gloss and shade. They can also opt for overprints on a silver base.

Kurz Brand body lotion- Packaging - Product information

The metallization unit can handle materials from 120 g/m² to 350 g/m². It can adapt to closed or open, creative or structured papers. Robust, it can handle small production runs, even one-off jobs, and can run up to 3,100 sheets/hour.

The DM-Smartliner can be used, for example, for mock-ups, cases, greeting cards, events, personalized catalog covers, and so on. It can also be used for serialization and identification solutions. 

In "plug and play" mode, this digital machine is simple and easy to use. No special training or cliché is required.

The DM-Smartliner operates in stand-alone mode. In this way, it can be used remotely to quickly manage finishing needs and requests, without slowing down a production run.

What's more, with its small footprint, the equipment fits easily into a production workshop. 

The DM-Smartliner is one of three new products to be previewed on the Kurz stand (Hall 3, Stand E71) at La Drupa, the trade fair for the printing industry, to be held in Düsseldorf, Germany, from May 28 to June 7, 2024.

Tests: Skinobs launches V2 of its platform

Skinobs V2

Skinobs unveiled the latest version of its clinical platform at in-Cosmetics Global Paris. With a new design and new features, Skinobs V2.0 aims to redefine testing expertise for users worldwide. 

With its online platform, Skinobs has been guiding experts through the "jungle" of the testing field since 2016. In 2023, the platform was used by over 6,000 industry experts based in 84 countries.

Evaluating active ingredients, ingredients or cosmetics is all the more necessary as demand for safe, effective and innovative cosmetics continues to grow. The challenges facing manufacturers, researchers and regulatory bodies are increasing all the time.

"Understanding the importance of preclinical and clinical evaluation is a major advantage in ensuring the right testing process."emphasizes Skinobs.

New design, new features

The new version of the platform makes it easy for test experts to choose the right tests, laboratories or consultants for their evaluation projects. What used to take days of research can now be accomplished in minutes. 

New features include project management tools, an integrated private messaging system, FAQs and an intuitive interface. 

"Cosmetic product evaluation is at the heart of the beauty industry and is key to the success of product development.says Anne Charpentier, CEO and founder of Skinobs. Our aim today is to function as a central hub where laboratories and cosmetics professionals converge. With Skinobs, we strive to facilitate collaboration and communication between these two essential industry entities."

According to the company, Skinobs is the leading referencing platform for preclinical testing and clinical evaluation. With its comprehensive, independent tools, Skinobs aims to offer beauty industry professionals worldwide an intuitive, free database of all skin, nail and hair testing solutions. Skinobs offers two applications on its platform: one dedicated to preclinical testing (in-silico, in-tubo, in-vitro or ex-vivo), the other to clinical evaluation (in-vivo on humans) to optimize product development in terms of performance, cost, speed and innovation. 

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