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Silab: a repair concentrate for beautiful hair

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman's hair is styled in a braided ponytail, emphasizing the beauty of her hair.

What if we took care of our hair like we do our skin? Faced with the aggressions of daily life (mechanical, thermal, chemical or environmental), the scalp suffers redness and irritation, and hair becomes dull, brittle, dry and fine, while losing volume. 

At a time when hair care is becoming increasingly sophisticated, taking its inspiration from skin care, Silab has chosen to capitalize on the nourishing and skin-protecting benefits of its Nutripeptides active ingredient to care for the scalp and hair.

Rich in di- and tri-peptides from rice (Oryza sativa), Nutripeptides is an active ingredient initially recognized for its nourishing and skin-protecting effects. New studies have enabled Silab to demonstrate its potential to repair hair.

According to Silab, Nutripeptides has a moisturizing and soothing action on the scalp after two months of treatment. Redness is significantly reduced, and the active ingredient has an anti-inflammatory effect, demonstrated in vitro by reduced IL-8 secretion. 

Silab also reports that Nutripeptides improves hair quality thanks to its reparative action on the hair fiber, demonstrated through the company's expertise in digital imaging. Hair regains shine, density and volume, effects significantly perceived by volunteers from the first month of application, and which intensify with each month of use.

A patented natural active ingredient, Nutripeptides is recommended for use in hair repair products at a dose of 0.5 to 2.5%. Available in aqueous solution, it is easy to formulate, according to Silab. It complies with biodiversity regulations and has a natural origin content of 99.4% (ISO 16128). It complies with international cosmetics regulations (Europe, USA, China, Japan, and more).

Photo: © Pexels / Pixabay

Modernizing your lab can improve employee retention

Around the world, countries have been facing labor shortages that have impacted many industries. The cosmetics industry has not been immune. Especially in the laboratory, employee retention of skilled technicians is a constant struggle with high turnover. This is an even greater challenge for quality control microbiology, which is a niche specialty. 

Cosmetic microbiology is an essential part of product quality, assessing microbial risks and providing final product release approvals. It can be incredibly hard to find qualified technicians with the appropriate laboratory skills and to train them in the company's specific processes. The quality control microbiology laboratory is constantly multitasking, and training must be done while still maintaining the laboratory's responsibility to get results to operations. There isn't time in the production cycle to put testing on hold to dedicate solely to training purposes. Another challenge that the industry faces is not just finding talent but retaining it. It's fundamental to the success of a laboratory to ensure employee satisfaction and for your staff to continue growing in their roles. Finding time for them to develop in their careers will encourage them to stay.

The list of responsibilities for a quality control microbiologist is long and varied. Their duties include managing the laboratory, assessing product quality, conducting numerous product tests from preservation efficacy to microbial contamination detection, and compiling and effectively communicating their data throughout the company. This is just an overview of the responsibilities required of a quality control laboratory technician. Some of the processes are time-consuming, and when the lab is short-staffed this means more work for the current technicians. With the added pressure, employees can become dissatisfied, creating a negative environment of low morale and increased turnover of staff. Losing a skilled technician creates a knowledge gap in the team and adds increased pressure on the other employees to maintain production timelines with less people. For many laboratories, the loss of qualified employees is felt across the company. Downstream operations will be affected even though they may not realize the consequences initially. Any time a laboratory technician leaves, the laboratory is impacted, and productivity may be reduced causing a bottleneck in the supply chain.

Training needs of the quality control microbiology lab

Detailed training of laboratory technicians sets the standard, so everyone is performing each task the correct way and assures consistency in results. Standard operating procedures should be strictly followed, and training reduces potential errors or misinterpretations. When training is rushed, mistakes are more likely to happen, and the necessary retesting of products will take even more time away from their current project responsibilities. Many microbial tests such as pour plating have subjective data interpretation, and training is the only way to mitigate potential discrepancies. 

A typical day in the life of a quality control microbiologist is full of reviewing plate after plate and counting microbial colonies. Microbial contamination of products can be an uncommon event, which will have your microbiologists essentially counting empty plates. All finished products and raw materials need to go through this very manual and time-consuming process to assess the presence of microbial contamination. When you use a plating method, nothing is fast tracked, and every test, whether the results are in specification or out of specification, takes the same amount of time. Modernizing your lab could be the answer to improve training and relieve the supply chain bottleneck.

site-industries-cosmetiques In a laboratory, a scientist examines a violet liquid under a microscope.

Modernizing to a rapid microbial detection method

By implementing a rapid microbial detection method, you can realize significant improvements in your laboratory and in overall manufacturing and operations. You can develop training programs with a consistent workflow that will streamline your processes and increase productivity, allowing your staff to focus on other important tasks. Manual and subjective processes like the traditional pour plate method can be difficult to train adequately and document proficiency. Automated processes like rapid microbial methods require much less training and prior microbiology experience to operate. Rapid methods already have documented processes and vendor-supplied protocols. They often make microbial testing laboratories more efficient, and can require less time, materials, and expertise to use. Laboratory technicians can spend their time on other duties and high priority assignments, trusting in the accuracy provided by the rapid method. With a lighter workload and more confidence, technicians have greater job satisfaction. This increases employee retention and reduces the rate of employee turnover. Overall, rapid methods are a win for both the employee and the business.

Rapid methods significantly reduce time to results without reducing quality. Rapid microbial detection methods can automatically produce fast and objective results, eliminating subjectivity and reducing the risk of human error. This is where the benefit of a rapid microbial detection method is at its highest and most realized by the laboratory. A rapid method will speed up how you triage your test results, indicating which products can be immediately moved to distribution and which products need further investigation. With this new technology, product release approvals can be made with confidence, shortening production timelines to meet strict shipment deadlines. When there is a contamination event, it allows for quick and more effective contamination response and remediation. All these benefits impact the company operationally and financially. This is an opportunity to improve your company's profitability by effectively streamlining the manufacturing process by modernizing your quality control lab.  

Companies push themselves to streamline and accelerate process flows. But there is often one overlooked opportunity...modernizing your microbiology lab. There are new technologies that can replace the traditional pour plate method that significantly reduces time to results without reducing quality. Using the traditional methods often leads to delays and can grind your manufacturing process or product release to a halt by holding up and delaying shipping. Rapid microbial methods provide an opportunity to gain efficiency in production and help lighten the load in the laboratory. This benefit is compounded and continues to grow helping quality control laboratory and supply chain work together to be more efficient and flexible to respond to the needs of their customers.

How Can Charles River Laboratories Help You?

We've purposely built our portfolio to bring you products and services that deliver accurate, relevant, and reliable data to fuel confident decisions on your product quality and contamination control efforts. Our unique combination of Celsis® rapid microbial detection and Accugenix® microbial identification, modernize your quality control laboratory and keep your manufacturing operations running efficiently. Explore our portfolio of integrated services at www.criver.com/cosmetics.

Skinobs strengthens its consulting business

site-industries-cosmetiques A row of white plastic jars on a table.

Skinobs, whose platforms enable players in the cosmetics industry to find testing methods and partners, carried out an international study in June 2022 on the clinical testing market for the beauty industry.

The study involved the evaluation of skin, hair, scalp and nail care products, and covered efficacy, safety and tolerance measurements, consumer testing and sensory analysis.

An original and unprecedented panorama of human testing activity at the heart of a global beauty market has been established thanks to a survey of clinical test managers at active ingredient manufacturers and cosmetics brands, as well as test laboratories.

Following this first 2022 edition - which is intended to be updated every two years - test providers approached Skinobs for customized strategic support, leading the company to respond to this strong demand. "Skinobs' insight into the value of this market, both qualitatively and quantitatively, is an asset when it comes to deploying a coherent and sustainable development strategy for their service offering".the company says.

Photo: © photosforyou / Pixabay

A new alliance for the beauty industry: The Value of Beauty

The Value of Beauty Alliance

L'Oréal Groupe, Beiersdorf, Givaudan, IFF, Kiko Milano and Ancorotti Cosmetics are behind The Value of Beauty, an alliance aimed at highlighting the economic and societal impact of the cosmetics industry to the European authorities. 

Launched in Brussels on January 31, 2024, the alliance has published a report entitled " What is the Value of Beauty "The six founding members point out that the European beauty market generates €74.1 billion a year, and that 80 % of consumers in the European Union consider beauty products to be an essential part of their daily lives. 

"With six founding members, the alliance represents different facets of our sector. I would like to welcome all members of our vast value chain, industry and associations to join the Value of Beauty Alliance. Together, we will amplify our voices and demonstrate the socio-economic importance of our industry for Europe".said Nicolas Hieronimus, CEO of L'Oréal Groupe.

The Value of Beauty alliance is open to all players who contribute to the cosmetics value chain in Europe and wish to participate in a better understanding of the ecosystem's economic and social contributions. Albéa and Puig have already committed to joining this collective effort.

Exsymol signs exclusive distribution agreement with DKSH for Canada

Exsymol signs exclusive distribution agreement with DKSH for Canada

In Canada, DKSH's Performance Materials business unit, a leading distributor of a wide range of innovative ingredients and specialty chemicals, will provide business development, marketing, sales, logistics and distribution services for Monaco-based Exsymol's range of silanols, peptides and natural actives, designed for skin care, cosmetics and dermo-cosmetic applications.

Exsymol silanols are a range of cosmetic actives with organic silicon at their core. According to Exsymol, silanols recharge the skin with silicon, delaying the appearance of signs of ageing while delivering rejuvenating benefits to the skin for long-term results.

DKSH was tasked with developing Exsymol's activities in Canada through its extensive distribution network, sales and technical teams, strong logistics capabilities, and services including innovation and formulation, as well as market research and analysis.

"We are confident that with DKSH's distribution skills and long experience and our high-quality ingredients, we will be able to support our customers and meet the needs of the Canadian market."commented Ori Callot, Sales and Marketing Director at Exsymol Monaco.

Roland Kraut, Vice President Personal Care Industry at DKSH, added: "We are delighted to partner with Exsymol and offer its highly effective assets and technology to our extensive customer base in Canada. Exsymol is known worldwide for its quality and performance. Our strong local presence and value-added services in North America will enable us to increase growth and market penetration for Exsymol's active ingredients for the personal care industry."

Eclaé communicates on its Innosans range 

Innosans range - Eclaé

Eclaé, a French cosmetics brand created in 2015 and developed at the heart of Compagnie des Salins du Midi, is highlighting its Innosans range for combination to oily skin. Innosans aims to address shine, dilated pores, blackheads, imperfections and blemish marks. 

Vegan and formulated with natural active ingredients, the moisturizing cream is composed of Eucalyptus (regulates sebum production), Zinc (purifies the skin) and organic white rose and pink Camargue algae. According to Eclaé, it moisturizes for eight hours and protects the skin from external aggressions.

Ultra-concentrated, Innosans serum aims to reduce imperfections and tighten pores while detoxifying the epidermis. "It visibly improves the quality of blemished skin and restores its natural radiance, thanks to ingredients such as zinc (anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties), Eucalyptus (purifying properties), white rose and organic pink Camargue algae (radiant complexion) and strawberry leaf extract (refines skin texture)".says Eclae.

The range also includes a cleansing balm, a cream mask and a cream with immediate local action.

Eclaé products are available in pharmacies, spas, institutes and on the brand's website.

Christian Dior celebrates Chinese New Year with Pure Trade

Christian Dior - Pure Trade

The Chinese New Year or Lunar New Year (CNY), one of the most important events in Chinese tradition, but also in other Asian countries, was celebrated this year on February 10, 2024.

For the occasion, Dior entrusted Pure Trade with the creation of a set of boxes and envelopes.

This ensemble soberly combines the codes of the House of Dior and those of CNY.

Emblematic of these festive days, the "Lucky Money" envelopes are made of FSC paper, decorated with a shiny transparent motif, a gold hot-stamped band, and the Christian Dior logo, also hot-stamped in gold. They come in sets of eight, in a large envelope, accompanied by a greetings card from the House of Dior.

A mini-case, also in red-tinted FSC paper, holds a lipstick. It closes with a cord that wraps around two buttons decorated with the embossed, then gold-stamped monogram.

Finally, two rigid (S & M) and two folding (M & L) FSC paper boxes, also decorated with embossed motifs and gold hot stamping, including the brand logo, can be used to create gift boxes.

Launch of the second promotion of the Cosmetics Accelerator

Cosmetic products

Bpifrance and the Direction Générale des Entreprises, in partnership with Cosmetic Valley and the FEBEA, are launching the second promotion of the "Cosmetics Accelerator", a program designed to encourage the development of cosmetics companies. 

a support system for company managers.

For the selected companies, the program includes 18 months of in-depth structuring, innovation and adaptation to current and future challenges, as well as the establishment of a sustainable growth trajectory.

This applies to SMEs and ETIs in the cosmetics sector - ingredients and formulation, manufacturing, packaging, distribution and brands - that meet the following conditions: sales in excess of €2 million, a minimum workforce of 10 and at least three years in business.

"Following the launch of the first Cosmetics Accelerator promotion in June 2022, FEBEA is delighted to see this project with Bpifrance continue with the establishment of a second promotion starting in 2024. Open to managers of cosmetics SMEs and ETIs, this new support program, with its broader scope, will enable them to respond to the sector's current key challenges (ecological transition, recruitment, digital transformation...) and to place their company in a sustainable and responsible growth strategy."says Emmanuel Guichard, General Delegate of Febea.

Alexandra Palt steps down as L'Oréal CSR Director, succeeded by Ezgi Barcenas

Alexandra Palt and Ezgi Barcenas - L'Oréal

L'Oréal has announced the departure of Alexandra Palt from her position as CSR General Manager, effective April 1, 2024, to focus on new projects.

Managing Director of Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR), Alexandra Palt has launched Group and industry-wide environmental transparency initiatives, such as Product Impact Labelling (PIL) and the EcoBeautyScore. 

In 2020, it also launched the L'Oréal for the FutureL'Oréal's "Triple A" rating, an operational roadmap for greater respect for the environment. Under his leadership, the L'Oréal group has achieved eight consecutive "Triple A" ratings from the CDP.

Under her leadership, the group has also invested in various philanthropic programs, notably via the L'Oréal Foundation and its international For Women in Science program, as well as with the L'Oréal Fund for Women supporting local organizations fighting violence against women and promoting their empowerment worldwide. Alexandra Palt has also launched two impact investment funds: the L'Oréal Fund for the Regeneration of Nature and the Circular Innovation Fund. 

As Chief Sustainability Officer Alexandra Palt joined the L'Oréal group in 2013. She was appointed to the Executive Committee as CSR General Manager in 2019. She will continue as Executive Director of the L'Oréal Foundation until June 30, 2024, after which she will sit as a member of the Board of Directors of the L'Oréal Foundation.

Ezgi Barcenas will join the L'Oréal group on March 1, 2024 as his successor.

Chief Sustainability Officer and member of the AB InBev brewing group's management team, Ezgi Barcenas set up and led the global sustainability function, having conceived AB InBev's ambitious "Net-zero by 2040" program. 

Ezgi Barcenas also oversaw the award-winning 100+ Accelerator sustainable startup program. Based in New York, she led cross-functional teams focused on agricultural development, water management, circular packaging and climate action to build a resilient and thriving value chain spanning nearly 50 countries.

Recently named to Time magazine's "Time100 Climate" list, Ezgi Barcenas In 2022, the company was also recognized as a Sustainability Trailblazer by the Responsible Business Awards from Reuters. 

"I would like to thank Alexandra for her commitment, which over the last 12 years has led to a profound transformation of L'Oréal's economic and social model, in line with the planetary limits defined by environmental science, said Nicolas Hieronimus, Managing Director of L'Oréal Groupe. Her courage, energy and vision have enabled L'Oréal to establish itself as a pioneering company, working to reconcile economic performance with a positive impact on the planet and society. The choice of Ezgi Barcenas, a recognized expert and leader in climate issues, to succeed Alexandra, is a strong sign of L'Oréal's renewed commitment to its transformation in terms of sustainable development and social responsibility."   

Photos: left: Alexandra Palt © L'Oréal right: Ezgi Barcenas (photo taken from Ezgi Barcenas's Linkedin profile)

French cosmetics: record exports

Make-up

According to data released by the Fédération des entreprises de la beauté (Febea), French cosmetics exports are on the up, despite less buoyant markets. For the first time, they exceeded the €20 billion mark.

In 2023, French cosmetics exports rose by +10.8% year-on-year to 21.3 billion euros. 

Make-up and facial care products rank first with an increase of +9.9 % (€11 bn) followed by fragrances, up +10.5 % (€7.1 bn). Perfume exports have doubled since 2019. Hair care products recorded the strongest growth (+15.8 %).

Europe and the United States, leading customers for French cosmetics

The leading export market for French cosmetics, the European Union accounts for 40.2 % (€8.6 Bn) of total exports, a share up +20.8% compared to 2022. Germany, Spain and Italy remain the top three importers of French cosmetics. In Europe, make-up and facial care recorded the strongest growth with +23.6 % (€3.7 bn), followed by perfumes, which rose by 18.3 % (€2.9 bn).

The United States remains the world's leading buyer of French cosmetics. In particular, one in five perfume products is exported there. However, growth in this market has slowed considerably, to 2.8 % in 2023, compared with 26.7% the previous year.

Growth in the US market was driven by fragrances, with +1.9 % growth (€1.2 bn), followed by make-up and facial care, with +5.3 % growth (€1.1 bn).

China and the Middle East: a slowdown

In 2023, the Chinese market will grow by +1.7% to reach €1.99 billion in cosmetics exports, down on 2022 (+5% that year). Growth in China remains primarily driven by the "Make-up and facial care" category, up 2.9 % (€1.7 bn). One in four French lipsticks is now exported to China. Perfumes, for their part, show growth of +2.5% in 2023. By contrast, the "Body hygiene and care" category, which rounds out the top 3 exported products, is losing 29.6 % in China.

In the Middle East, exports of French cosmetics fell by -2.9 %, due in particular to a sharp drop in exports to Saudi Arabia (-19 %), partly offset by growth in the United Arab Emirates (+6 %).

"Despite major disparities between countries, French cosmetics continue to enjoy remarkable international growthsays Emmanuel Guichard, General Delegate of Febea. Passing the symbolic milestone of 20 billion euros shows that the sector continues to win over consumers the world over, thanks to its innovation and ability to respond to their changing expectations. The industry, more than 80 % of which is made up of VSEs and SMEs, makes a major contribution to improving France's trade balance, and continues to increase the attractiveness of French cosmetics worldwide."

In all, over 60 % of French cosmetics production is exported. The sector is now the second-largest contributor to the positive balance of trade, behind the aeronautics sector and ahead of wines & spirits.

Febea notes that "made in France" remains an essential asset for the cosmetics sector.

These annual estimates are based on official customs figures for January to November 2023 inclusive. December results have been estimated on the basis of the average for the 11 months of 2023.

Photo: © Xaara Novack / Pixabay

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