At In-Cosmetics Global 2024, to be held in Paris from April 16 to 18, Spanish company LipoTrue will present Frag-Brillin remastered, a biomimetic fibrillin fragment that promotes skin remodeling. Frag-Brillin is the latest addition to the Fragments Remastered range - a new range of wild plant protein fragments used as biofactors thanks to vertical farming - which already includes two biomimetic collagen fragments, Col-4-frag remastered and Col-frag remastered.

Skin loses its firmness and suppleness over time. Frag-Brillin remastered extends the concept of skin flexibility not only by strengthening elastic fibers, but also by improving cellular elasticity and reinforcing the dermal structure, thus improving the skin's biomechanical qualities. 

LipoTrue will also present SP[AI]3™, a peptide - optimized by artificial intelligence - designed to improve the appearance of blemishes and imperfections on acne-prone skin.

This unique peptide is obtained in silico by AI from thousands of candidates, with optimal binding and specificity, to modulate three key elements: sebum, pore and inflammation. This triple approach promotes a decrease in sebum synthesis and quantity, as well as a reduction in pore size and clogging, while demonstrating a reduction in inflammation induced by C. acnesto ultimately improve the appearance of blemishes and imperfections for purified skin. 

A subsidiary of the AIglon group, a French specialist in the manufacture of vaselines and pharmaceutical waxes, gels and white oils, Aiglon is expanding its Naturelyn range with the introduction of Naturelyn Oil, made with 100 % of plant-derived ingredients. A naturally-sourced oil suitable for body care, hair care, make-up and lipstick formulations.

A natural alternative to Paraffinum Liquidum

Building on its 120-year heritage, Aiglon innovates to meet the evolving needs of the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries.

With a naturalness index of 1, Naturelyn Oil is composed of 100 % ingredients of natural origin. To guarantee a secure supply, this oil is offered in two main versions. Naturelyn 15 and Naturelyn 17 will be presented in the Innovation Zone at In-Cosmetics Global from April 16 to 18, 2024, Porte de Versailles, Paris, and on Aiglon stand 1S29.

According to the company, tests carried out by an independent laboratory show similar performance between Naturelyn Oil and Paraffinum Liquidum, with an identical feel on the skin.

_{Data supplied by Aiglon.}

UK-based Biopolax has teamed up with Impag France, a subsidiary of raw materials supplier Impag Group, to distribute its multifunctional plant-based ingredients for personal care and home care products.

Under the terms of the agreement, Impag France will become the exclusive distributor of Biopolax's BPX-S6 range for the French cosmetics and home care markets.

The BPX-S6 range is a plant-based component for ecological home care and rinse-off personal care products. In cosmetic formulations, BPX-S6 provides thickening, gentle complexing and performance-enhancing properties, accelerates rinsing and improves dermatological safety. In home care products, the products replace synthetic ingredients for degreasing and dispersing functions, provide an antistatic effect and improve the environmental profile and biodegradability of products.

BPX-S6 is based on an innovative patented technology of modified low-molecular-weight polysaccharides (microgels) produced from starches and pectins.

"This new partnership enables Impag France to strengthen its portfolio of innovative specialty ingredients: for Home Care, I&I and Personal Care applications. Biopolax is an innovative company with a strong focus on naturalness and efficacy. Impag France is definitely the ideal distribution partner for this type of ingredient. Thanks to our strong market presence and the support of a passionate technical-sales team, we will bring Biopolax innovations to our customers, meet their challenges and ensure that Biopolax awareness and sales grow rapidly in France".emphasizes Jean-Bastien Duchâteau, General Manager of Impag France.

"We are very grateful to Impag France for including BPX-S6 in its portfolio of specialty chemicals. Our aim as a company is to develop plant-based alternatives to synthetic ingredients, and the BPX-S6 range is an example of this approach. From the feedback we are receiving, we believe that BPX-S6-01, (...) will add value as part of the formulation base in products such as shampoos, shower gels and face and hand foams and cleansers. We are also finding that other modifications are capable of solving a number of problems in cleaning and maintenance products".says Vladislav Perunov, Director of Biopolax.

_{Photo taken from the Biopolax.}

"ADN & Cosmétique" aims to guarantee the traceability of plant-based raw materials, with a strong commitment to transparency and security of supply. It was founded three years ago by several leading names in the cosmetics sector.

The processes put forward are based on genetic tools developed by the DNA Gensee laboratory, to "read" DNA barcodes on plants and algae, making it possible to authenticate them with a high degree of reliability.

A first step had been taken in early 2023 with the signing of a pre-consortium agreement by the historic players, Clarins, Croda Beauty Actives, DNA Gensee, Greentech, L'Oréal and Nuxe, to promote these techniques via scientific projects.

Today, members interact to create a bank of genetic "signatures". Botanical gardens and/or specialized conservatories collaborate to search for botanically authenticated plant samples, and determine their genetic signature. 

Work in progress includes the study of closely related species and the creation of appropriate tools for the absolute authentication of plant resources. The creation of the database prototype is now underway. It will be enriched over the coming years with the addition of new botanical references.

The internationalization of the consortium, with the arrival of major players in the cosmetics industry involved in the manufacture of cosmetic ingredients or finished products, reflects the desire of manufacturers to guarantee the authenticity of their raw materials and their desire for transparency.

At in-cosmetics Global, to be held in Paris from April 16 to 18, 2024, Roquette Beauté will unveil Beauté by Roquette ST 730 (Inci Hydroxypropyl Starch) to the cosmetics industry. This new ingredient responds to growing consumer demand for plant-derived cosmetics that combine sustainability and clinically proven efficacy in their skincare and make-up products.

Peas: a sustainable resource

Beauté by Roquette ST 730 is derived from pea starch, a sustainable and attractive crop with minimal impact on water resources, climate change and land use. In line with Roquette's circular production model, the company uses nearly 100 % of yellow pea grain components, contributing to a positive environmental footprint.

Superior water resistance to synthetic film-formers

Roquette Beauté reminds us that, in make-up applications, long wear and water resistance are key benefits. Worldwide, more than half of make-up consumers say they prefer a product with long-lasting properties.¹ at the time of purchase.

In various studies, Beauté by Roquette ST 730 at 5 % has shown, according to Roquette Beauté, superior water resistance to market reference film-forming agents such as pullulan and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), at the same concentration.

Reduced wrinkles

Another sought-after quality: tensor effects in eye and face care products, as consumers look for visible results in these delicate, wrinkle-prone areas.

A study in vivo² was carried out on 40 volunteers to analyze the tightening effect of the new ingredient. According to Roquette Beauté, Beauté by Roquette ST 730 at 4 % significantly reduces fine lines and wrinkles. A large majority of subjects (82 %) reported that their fine lines and wrinkles were reduced.

"We are very proud of the addition of Beauté by Roquette ST 730 to our product range, says Bénédicte Courel, General Manager of Roquette Beauté. Consumers are keen to make their skincare and make-up routines more sustainable, replacing synthetic or controversial ingredients with plant-based alternatives, without compromising on efficacy or benefits. Beauté by Roquette ST 730 is a game-changer for cosmetics brands wishing to incorporate plant-based ingredients into their formulations while delivering a visible tightening effect to consumers."

_{1. Kantar Profiles/Mintel, April 2023, June 2023; KuRunData/Mintel, May 2023.}

_{2. Beauté by Roquette ST 730 was evaluated at 4 % and compared to a placebo. Skin relief parameters were measured on 40 volunteers (aged 45 to 65), in a single application, using the 3D Primos Lite (LMI Technologies).}

For its large-scale plant project, Global Bioenergies, an industrial biology player, announces that it has received letters of intent representing over 2,500 tonnes of Isonaturane per year from cosmetics players based in several regions of the world. These purchase intentions represent annual sales of over 70 million euros.

From 2027, this plant, mainly dedicated to cosmetics, will market Isonaturane 12 and 16, natural equivalents to petroleum-based isododecane and isohexadecane. Limited to 2,500 tonnes of elements produced, the new site will be smaller than planned in order to concentrate on the most profitable markets: make-up and prestige skincare products. 

"We had initially wanted to increase the plant's capacity to 10,000 tonnes, which would have meant addressing markets such as make-up remover and deodorant. These mass markets require large volumes at low cost, which would inevitably have driven down our selling prices. By limiting the size of the plant, we reduce the amount of Capex required to build it, and target markets willing to pay the best price for naturalness. The plant's economic profile maintains its margin prospects while reducing the investment required, with purchasing intentions now exceeding the plant's capacity and projected annual sales of over €70 million."explains Marc Delcourt, co-founder and CEO of Global Bioenergies.

In addition to cosmetics, the plant is intended to launch the market for sustainable aviation fuels (SAF), using the same technology to produce a formulation that can be used perfectly as an aviation fuel, blending up to 50 % with fossil kerosene. Global Bioenergies' process is one of the few in the world to benefit from the necessary ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials) certification. The company plans to deploy its process on a large scale in the aviation sector from the opening of the market in 2030, when the threshold for incorporating DAC into kerosene will rise to 6 % in the European Union.

The first plans for the plant have been finalized. Five areas will be formalized in the plant: isobutene production by fermentation, isobutene purification, conversion to isododecane and isohexadecane, effluent and energy management. The French government has already announced its support for the project at the end of 2023, with the award of €16.4 million in public aid via the Première usine call for projects led by Bpifrance as part of the France 2030 plan. The total cost of building the plant has been estimated at nearly 80 million euros. 

_{Photo: Aesthetic Journey / Pixabay}