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Bormioli Luigi collaborates with Scent of Africa

Bormioli Luigi - Scent of Africa

Scent of Africa is an African perfume house of Ghanaian origin. The brand showcases its continent through its Eternal Legends collection. Signed by great perfumers such as Nathalie Cetto, Olivier Pescheux and Delphine Lebeau, this collection brings out the olfactory terroirs of Africa through assertive feminine and masculine accents. 

"Through Scent of Africa, I wanted to honor Africa and its peoples, the generosity of a continent and the strong sense of belonging of its inhabitants."explains Tanal Ghandour, the brand's founder. Ginger from Nigeria, incense from Somalia, geranium and jasmine from Egypt, buchu leaf from South Africa... give birth to heady fragrances, dear to African culture. 

The collection revolves around male-female duets, such as Rakh and Nefee, Hagé and Laïka, Bellua and Bézi and now Fik and Gleti. It expresses African mythology through a contemporary tribute to local divinities. 

A complex bottle and cap design

Bormioli Luigi has put its experience and industrial expertise at the service of a demanding development. The bottle, initially created in a 50 ml format, is the fruit of a specific design. The decoration, with its multiple metallic, opaque and transparent shades, is created using an exterior lacquer that reveals a subtle gradient effect. This is combined with a pearlescent and glossy hot stamping finish, the effects of which distinguish between feminine and masculine fragrances. One of the main difficulties encountered during development was to harmonize the colors of the bottle and cap, while respecting their balance.

Another challenge was to apply hot stamping to the conical bottle. The cap evokes the shape of Africa, and the brand logo is inspired by the Sankofa symbol which, for the Akan people, means "return to" and symbolizes a return to one's roots.

The brand will launch a second range inspired by African materials and rituals in 2025, targeting the American and European markets.

CSR: Be Cause, a platform for corporate stakeholder engagement

Be Cause Platform - CSR

The Be Cause platform enables companies to integrate their employees and customers into their CSR approach, taking into account the values and sensitivities of each.

Via the platform, companies can include a variety of stakeholders in a collaborative approach, aligned with shared corporate social responsibility objectives. Be Cause offers customized solutions to meet the specific needs of each company, making giving and engagement a collective action alongside the business.

A collective approach to CSR 

Be Cause was born of an observation: corporate CSR strategies are often poorly perceived by employees. It can be equated with Greenwashing by employees, due to their lack of involvement in the decision-making process. The same feeling can be observed among customers.

According to a study by Odoxa, 92 % of French people consider CSR to be an important issue for companies, and 31 % even think it should be a priority. However, only 15 % of French employees feel fully involved in this approach. What's more, customers currently have no say in a company's CSR strategy, and are dependent on internal decisions, with no opportunity to have their say.

Involving all stakeholders 

Be cause is positioned as a tool offering the possibility of actively involving stakeholders in the CSR approach. The platform enables customers to engage with the company before, during and after the purchasing experience, and empowers employees to use part of the CSR budget according to their own sensitivities. Thanks to the good deeds purchase system, each employee and customer can track the impact of their choices. Their profile thus becomes a measure of positive impact.

For the company, each individual employee impact is consolidated into a collective positive impact sheet. The company can thus say: "Thanks to our employees, we have helped to plant X number of trees, distribute X number of meals...". These concrete, tangible results can be integrated into the CSR report.

"Be Cause transforms corporate social responsibility into a shared, concrete and measurable approach, strengthening the commitment of employees and customers while meeting today's CSR challenges."emphasize the platform's designers.

Fedrigoni wins award for its Futura paper range

Futura - Fedrigoni

At the Nuit du Papier event held in Paris on April 4, 2024, Pap Argus magazine presented its Pap'Awards for innovation, initiative and excellence. The Fedrigoni Group won the circularity award for its Futura paper. 

The Futura range of papers is based on the recovery of textile waste from the Albini brand, one of the Group's customers. It comes in two grammages, 115 and 300 gr, and meets the technical requirements of printing and packaging. 

Paper made through upcycling

"This second life project allows us to reduce the amount of virgin pulp in production by recovering textile by-products destined for disposal, while optimizing the energy and emissions of each production process."explains Celine Bertuzzi, Marketing Director Fedrigoni Special Papers. 

Major investments

Fedrigoni has invested heavily in research and development in order to succeed in its challenge and achieve high technical and aesthetic properties.

The process begins with the sorting of off-cuts, either from the weaving process or from the sampling and quality control department, which are frayed and then dusted. The cotton is then added by Fedrigoni to the cellulose mixture to obtain a cardboard used to create various communication supports. The recovery of mercerized cotton waste, which is very difficult to process with traditional industrial equipment, required a great deal of innovation to produce a rigid tissue paper that is both soft and durable, says the manufacturer.

Chanel: a joint laboratory with public research

site-industries-cosmetiques A group of nine people stand behind a table with documents on it, posing for a photo. They are dressed in street clothes and stand in front of banners from various organizations, including Chanel, CNRS and Cosmetic Valley. This collaborative event underlines the importance of public research and the joint laboratory.

On June 6, 2024, Chanel Parfums Beauté, the CNRS, the École Nationale Supérieure de Chimie de Rennes (ENSCR) and the University of Rennes inaugurated a joint laboratory in Rennes, called "Iccare" for Innovative Cosmetics for Care.

The aim of this laboratory, financed by the French National Research Agency (ANR), is to innovate in the field of cosmetics to meet the challenges of eco-design, by pooling the skills of Chanel Parfums Beauté in the development and industrialization of cosmetic products with those in synthesis, catalysis and green chemistry of scientists at the Rennes Institute of Chemical Sciences (CNRS/ENSCR/Université de Rennes).

CNRS points out that cosmetics are the second largest contributor to France's trade balance, with 60 % of production exported, representing a market worth €30.4 billion.1

However, to maintain the popularity of French cosmetics, it is vital to provide consumers with constant, well-informed innovation, and to maintain product safety in the light of evolving scientific knowledge, the environmental context and current regulations.

Ecodesign, which aims to improve the life cycle of finished products, has become a major concern.

In order to overcome major technological hurdles, the teams involved in this research-industry collaboration will focus on two areas of research:

- The design and production of new inorganic pigments, essential ingredients in make-up as they constitute the colorimetric composition of shades,

- the production of agro-sourced waxes from non-food vegetable oil using processes with low environmental impact.

"CNRS is delighted to have signed the first joint laboratory agreement with Chanel Parfums Beauté, a flexible and sustainable form of partnership between public and private players. This creation is the result of a relationship of trust established with Chanel Parfums Beauté over the last ten years, around a common scientific challenge: inventing the cosmetics of tomorrow. More specifically, Iccare aims to design more effective, eco-designed cosmetics, in line with the CNRS's major challenges, including that of participating in the environmental transition".emphasizes Jean-Luc Moullet, Deputy Director General for Innovation at CNRS.

"Chanel R&D's collaboration with public scientific research partners is essential if we are to continue to create innovative products in tune with the times. Thanks to this joint laboratory, we can pool our expertise, scientific knowledge and know-how to develop future generations of raw materials. This is a scientific, human and responsible project that contributes to the dynamic of continuous improvement essential to meeting the future challenges of industry in general".says Nathalie Volpe, Director of Innovation, Research and Development at Chanel Parfums Beauté.

"The ANR's LabCom program is designed to strengthen research partnerships between the public and private sectors, and is part of the Agency's overall approach to supporting innovation. All of this is motivated by the need to support socio-economic players and companies to make them more competitive and better able to meet the challenges of transition. We are therefore delighted with the creation of LabCom ICCARE, which will enable research teams from the CNRS, the École Nationale Supérieure de Chimie de Rennes and the Université de Rennes to work with those of Chanel Parfums Beauté to design the cosmetics of tomorrow.points out Dominique Dunon-Bluteau, Director of Scientific Operations at the ANR.

1. Source: Febea, 2023.

Photo © Pierre Theiller / CNRS
From left to right: William Le Saint, CNRS research engineer; Nathalie Volpe, International Innovation and R&D Director at Chanel Parfums Beauté; Audrey Soric, Director of the Ecole Nationale Supérieure de Chimie de Rennes; Hélène de Clermont-Gallerande, Innovation Technology Manager at Chanel Parfums Beauté and Labcom co-leader; Marc Mauduit, CNRS Research Director at the Institut des Sciences Chimiques de Rennes and Labcom leader; Jean-Luc Moullet, CNRS Deputy Director General for Innovation; Muriel Hissler, First Vice-President, Vice-President of the Research Commission of the Academic Council of the University of Rennes; Dominique Dunon-Bluteau, Director of Scientific Operations, ANR; Laura Chaillou, Cifre doctoral student, funded by Chanel Parfums Beauté / Association nationale de la recherche et de la technologie. 

Givaudan unveils House of Naturals to strengthen its expertise in natural ingredients

Givaudan - House of Naturals

Givaudan, world specialist in fine fragrances, has created House of Naturals, an entity dedicated to the development of exclusive ingredients. The ambition is to strengthen its expertise in natural ingredients, from field to fragrance, with a focus on consistent quality, artisanal know-how and sustainable processes to meet the highest standards.

"House of Naturals reflects Givaudan's ambition to go beyond the limits of ingredient mastery. With our future center of excellence, Campus 52, which will be based in the heart of Grasse, we are anchoring ourselves in this territory where the history and expertise of perfumery converge. This new space for creative innovation is an important step in our strategy, to meet and anticipate our customers' demand for exceptional fragrances", explains Xavier Renard, Givaudan's Global Head of Fine Fragrances.

"Our aim is to achieve an unrivalled level of uniqueness and quality when it comes to our fragrances, by combining the expertise and creativity of our teams. House of Naturals will draw inspiration from pioneering technologies used in various sectors, opening the way to unlimited opportunities."says Maxence Billas, manager of House of Naturals.

House of Natural rests on four pillars: agronomy (responsible sourcing and sharing of expertise), innovation (in extraction methods), operations (a bridge between innovation, engineering and tradition) and perfumers.

Givaudan says House of Naturals is leading the way in implementing structural and operational improvements, from field to fragrance. "House of Naturals will undoubtedly play a key role in shaping the future of fragrance creation, pushing the boundaries of what is possible with natural ingredients."says the company.

Cosmogen and Boiron join forces for a restorative and relaxing effect

Boiron - Cosmogen

CBD by Boiron roll-on gel is designed to help soothe and relax everyday tensions, as well as relax muscles. Squeeze'n Roll by Cosmogen's removable stainless steel roller massager enables easy self-massage of hard-to-reach areas.

Squeeze'n Roll is part of the Squeeze'n range from Cosmogen, a manufacturer of innovative application solutions. It features a patented applicator tip with on/off rotary closure, enabling the formula to be dispensed (on), applied and the applicator washed (off).

The Squeeze'n range, available in micro, mini, regular and maxi formats, is designed with separable elements for sorting and recycling. In particular, the applicator can be reused on a new tube. This range can be made from recycled plastic.

Packaging solutions tailored to the needs of the cosmetics industry

K-Line-S - CDA

CDA specializes in the design and manufacture of high-performance packaging solutions. 

The K-Line S is an automatic filler that enables precise dosing of liquid and viscous products such as creams, oils and gels, thanks to a specific pump adjusted to the product's viscosity. 

Optionally equipped with a self-cleaning pressurized tank, the K-Line S ensures a hygienic working environment. With two to eight filling spouts, including a plunging spout for foaming products, and a 304 L stainless steel frame, it guarantees, according to its designers, durability and reliability, meeting the rigorous demands of the cosmetics industry.

Many machines designed by CDA incorporate dosing technologies adapted to the viscosity of products (creams, ointments, body oils, soaps, essential oils, etc.). Screw systems, for example, can automate the guiding of a glass pipette into a container. In addition, CDA labellers are specially adapted to apply labels to conical products, common in cosmetics, as well as to apply booklet labels to the sides or underside of containers.

Based in Narbonne, in the Occitanie region of France, CDA is growing steadily. Founded in 1991, the company currently employs nearly 150 people. Its product range includes fillers, screwers, labelers and monoblocks (3-in-1 packaging solutions). This equipment enables the company to provide complete solutions adapted to a wide range of problems.

Amoéba: convincing results for the use of amoeba lysate in cosmetics

Amoeba - Willaertia magna C2c Maky

Amoéba is an industrial greentech specializing in the treatment of microbiological risk, developing a biocontrol agent for plant protection in agriculture as well as a range of cosmetic ingredients. The company has announced the results of a clinical study confirming the benefits of using its ingredient in cosmetics for skin care.

In parallel with the development of its biocidal and biocontrol applications, Amoéba has discovered the benefits of amoeba lysate. Willaertia magna C2c Maky for cosmetic applications. This amoeba has been isolated from the environment and has a number of advantages.

An initial clinical study was carried out by the Institute for Clinical Expertise on 30 hemifacial volunteers (n=60) in March and April 2024. According to Amoéba, this study confirms the value of using its ingredient in cosmetics for skin care, with "statistically significant" measured results justifying the following claims: 

  • "improvement in dermal thickness
  • "repairing effect on the superficial dermis". 
  • "improved skin density
  • "improved dermal texture

Amoéba has also obtained the inclusion of this active ingredient on the Inci list, paving the way for commercialization and the search for commercial partnerships without any further authorization. 

The skincare market is estimated to be worth $200 billion in 2023, with expected annual growth of 6% per year until 2030 (source: McKinsey). The beauty market in 2023).

Photo taken from the Amoéba website.

FaiveleyTech and Sulapac: a lasting partnership

FaiveleyTech-Sulapac-marble

FaiveleyTech, a French-born international group specializing in high value-added plastic injection molding, unveils a new marbled finish for cosmetics packaging made from Sulapac biobased materials. This is one of many projects resulting from the collaboration initiated back in 2018 between the two companies.

Environmentally-friendly packaging 

Specializing in plastic injection molding for the industrial, health and beauty sectors, FaiveleyTech has teamed up with Sulapac, a pioneer in materials innovation, to help its customers in the cosmetics sector develop more sustainable packaging. 

Based in Helsinki, Sulapac was founded by scientists in 2016 and has customers in various industries around the world. Its patented innovation, dubbed Sulapac, has received backing from renowned investors such as Chanel and Sky Ocean Ventures. Aesthetic and functional, its bio-based materials have, according to FaiveleyTech, a low carbon footprint and leave behind no permanent microplastics or toxic fillers. 

As a recognized expert in the manufacture of products based on Sulapac materials, the French company is the first supplier to create Sulapac cosmetic packaging with a marbled effect. 

The perfume caps produced in different shades were created using Sulapac Luxe Flex, a highly functional bio-based material designed to replace technical fossil plastics in beauty packaging. Thanks to the transformation process, the pattern is repeatable, but each piece remains unique.

"Sulapac is the first biobased material to meet the functional, aesthetic and quality requirements defined by our operational departments and customers in the beauty sector, says Béryl Tomaschett, Sales Manager at FaiveleyTech Orgelet. The fact that we've demonstrated that we can achieve this superb marbled effect as well as high thicknesses opens up even more possibilities for brands to use Sulapac in place of conventional plastics."

A joint quest for excellence 

Manufacturing Sulapac lids for part of Chanel's N°1 range of beauty products, FaiveleyTech and Sulapac have also collaborated to produce caps for Shiseido's entire Ulé line, as well as perfume stoppers for Chanel Les Eaux 125 ml bottles.

"We are grateful for our collaboration with FaiveleyTech. They have demonstrated an unwavering commitment to advancing the industry towards a cleaner future by introducing Sulapac to their customers and investing in joint product development. "says Colin Strobant, Sales Director, Cosmetics at Sulapac.

FaiveleyTech has gained experience with nine different grades of Sulapac material, including Sulapac Premium with large wood chips, Sulapac Barrier used for parts in contact with the formula, Sulapac Solid with its ceramic appearance, as well as the specific recipe developed to incorporate plant waste into the formulation. Over 100 tonnes of Sulapac materials have already been processed by FaiveleyTech.

United by the pursuit of excellence, the two companies continue to serve some of the industry's most iconic luxury brands. The next launches will be unveiled at the end of the year.

Dsm-firmenich focuses on growth and innovation

Dimitri de Vreeze, CEO of dsm-firmenich

Dsm-firmenich, a global specialist in nutrition, health and beauty innovation, held its Capital Markets Day (CMD) in Paris on June 3, 2024. At this event, the company presented its strategy to investors and analysts, as well as its capabilities in science, innovation and creation.

The CMD discussed how the company is implementing its strategy. These included the merger, the company's focus on high-margin, high-growth activities, and the acceleration of its development.

"Our journey began with a bold dream and a vision to bring progress to life by combining the essential, the desirable and the sustainable. We combined the strengths of two iconic companies to create dsm-firmenich, a global leader in nutrition, health and beauty, able to help customers deliver what consumers want, what we collectively need and what our planet demands. Against the backdrop of a challenging 2023, (...) we have decided to de-prioritize certain business segments, and our way forward is guided by a finely-tuned strategy that prioritizes high-growth, high-margin segments in nutrition, health and beauty."commented Dimitri de Vreeze, CEO of dsm-firmenich.

Dsm-firmenich invests in science and research to innovate, with a focus on sustainable development. The four areas of research are: biotech, microbiome, receptor biology and sensory sciences, and data science and artificial intelligence. 

In its new configuration, dsm-firmenich will comprise three complementary business units: "Perfumery & Beauty", "Taste, Texture & Health" and "Health, Nutrition & Care".

Medium-term objectives include sales growth of 5 to 7 %.

Photo: Screenshot of the conference, featuring Dimitri de Vreeze, CEO of dsm-firmenich.

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