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Anjac announces the acquisition of Stephid, a company positioned in the luxury perfumery segment

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The editorial staff
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Anjac - Stephid

Anjac Health & Beauty (Anjac), an industrial group specializing in the formulation, manufacture and packaging of cosmetics, medical devices, medicines and dietary supplements, announces the acquisition of Stephid, a French company specializing in luxury perfume manufacture, filling and high-end contract packaging.

Founded in 1989 and based in Pont-Sainte-Maxence (Oise, France), Stephid has unique expertise in small series and luxury, close to craftsmanship and tailoring. The company has privileged relationships with luxury perfume houses and designers, as it masters the manufacture of their fragrances and the cutting-edge techniques that alone can preserve the most precious top notes.

Stephid's expertise also extends to the packaging of bottles and the creation of the finest packaging using highly precise manual operations. Our teams also offer recognized expertise in managing all the logistical aspects of distributing finished products worldwide.

Renowned for its flexibility and responsiveness, Stephid supports over 60 well-known perfume brands. The company is forecasting double-digit sales growth of nearly €15 million in 2023.

A strategy of growth in high value-added segments

After Cosmetix West and Feltor in 2019, Roval Cosmétiques in 2020, Apollo and Pillar5 in 2022, the Anjac group signs with Stephid its 10th acquisition in six years, for sales that have doubled in five years. The Anjac group now comprises 15 expert companies, with 22 R&D and manufacturing sites, and sales of close to €700 million.

This new acquisition expands the Group's offering in the perfume market, an extremely dynamic market driven by ultra-luxury brands and niche perfumes that respond to the trend towards personalization and hyper-segmentation.

Anjac will benefit from Stephid's cutting-edge know-how in high-end manufacturing and packaging, with unique, made-to-measure services of the highest quality. The group is thus expanding its offering, providing complementary expertise to support its customer portfolio in their cosmetics and fragrance ranges.

Numerous synergies are envisaged, notably industrial and commercial, with highly complementary customer portfolios and innovation projects.

The Group's support will enable Stephid to expand its investments and production capacity, and thus meet the growing demands of its customers.

The management team and governance remain in place.

"We are delighted to welcome the Stephid teams to our growing group. Stephid is recognized by major French and international brands for its unique know-how, responsiveness and outstanding logistics service. This merger will enable us to offer our premium and luxury customers complementary expertise to accompany their cosmetics and fragrance ranges".says Aurélien Chaufour, President of the Anjac Group.

"Our integration within Anjac will enable us to support Stephid's growth by joining a solid group with high production capacities and a complementary customer portfolio, whose values of innovation, quality and sustainability we share. The Anjac group shares our moral and social values, which naturally led us to this choice".explains Yannick Demoulin, President of Stephid.

Powder expert Lessonia invests in new dry granulation technology

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The editorial staff
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Lessonia

Lessonia has always specialized in the manufacture of powder cosmetic ingredients (exfoliants, fine powders, active ingredients, extracts...). From grinding and sieving to blending and debacterializing powders, Lessonia has acquired recognized expertise in its field.

Gradually, it has developed expertise in anhydrous cosmetic formulation (clay masks, peel-offs, scrubs, cleansing powders...) and is constantly innovating to meet the challenges of powder cosmetics.

The formulation of anhydrous cosmetics involves the use and mixing of ingredients in the form of fine powders with heterogeneous particle sizes. This constraint gives rise to unmixing, flow problems and powder safety issues (presence of dust). It was therefore essential for Lessonia to find a technical solution to improve powder flowability and avoid dust.

That's why the company chose to innovate with dry granulation technology, equipping itself with a new production line comprising a roller compactor, a granulator and a sieve: a fine powder is compacted into a fine tablet. It is then ground and sieved to obtain the desired granulometry.

The aim is to obtain a larger, more homogeneous particle size from a fine powder, optimized to ensure good powder flow.

Pharmaceutical-inspired technology 

Lessonia came up with the idea for this new line from the world of pharmaceuticals and tablets. In the pharmaceutical industry, granulation technology is the first step in tablet manufacture.

Lessonia has been using a rotary tablet press since 2012, to manufacture tablets and lozenges (such as chewable toothpaste). Granulation technology is used upstream to improve powder handling issues (flowability, demixing and homogeneous granulometry).

An investment of €400,000 for new prospects in the future 

With this new €400,000 investment, Lessonia intends to innovate and meet the challenges of the powder cosmetics market. It can also expand its range of services for manufacturers looking for solutions. However, a feasibility study on compacting their formula will be essential before starting the granulation process. 

Photo: left: Charles-Henri Morice (Head of innovation); right: Nassim Serier - Continuous improvement manager.

Exsymol joins forces with ExAdEx-Innov to explore new perspectives in adipose tissue research 

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The editorial staff
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Exsymol - ExAdEx-Innov

Exsymol, a company specializing in the design and production of active ingredients for the cosmetics and nutrition sectors, announces an unprecedented collaboration with ExAdEx-Innov, a French biotech startup spun out of the University of Nice, focusing on research applied to human adipose tissue. 

For Exsymol, the objective of this strategic collaboration is clear: to take advantage of the latest technologies by collaborating with startups at the cutting edge of innovation to maximize the value of its active ingredients, and thus reinforce their commitment to delivering top-quality products to their customers. 

ExAdEx-Innov draws on more than three decades of experience in human adipose tissue research to offer innovative tools for the cosmetics, nutraceutical and biomedical industries. ExAdEx technology exploits the intrinsic capacity of adipose stem cells to proliferate in response to stimuli, and uses the tissue matrix of native tissue as a bioactive support for their proliferation. These models ex vivo have unique characteristics, including long-term viability, a complete extracellular matrix structure, lipid droplet size comparable to that of endogenous tissue, and much more.

ExAdEx technology offers a unique opportunity for innovation in adipose tissue research and product development. Working in partnership with Exsymol opens up new perspectives in the beauty industry. 

Exsymol recognizes the innovative opportunities offered by the patented technology developed by ExAdEx-Innov, which enables the generation of research models. ex vivo of human adipose tissue. These unique models are clinically relevant and integrate the complex 3D biology of native adipose tissue.

This collaboration marks a significant step forward in the repositioning and development of cosmetic active ingredients, using human adipose tissue models. ex vivo reliable quality, very close to the fabric in vivoto evaluate new claims and generate relevant data.

Lipoid Kosmetik offers a selection of tea-based products

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The editorial staff
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Lipoid - tea

Lipoid Kosmetik, manufacturer of high-quality botanical extracts, actives and natural phospholipid products for the cosmetics and personal care industry, presents a selection of tea-inspired products for various skin and hair care applications.

Enjoying a cup of tea is a centuries-old ritual that helps to slow the pace, cultivate a sense of mindfulness and, in general, take care of oneself and one's well-being. Different types of tea are associated with health benefits ranging from antioxidant protection to relaxation and digestive support. In addition to its consumption as a healthy beverage, tea-inspired products are an important market trend in the cosmetics and personal care industry. Tea extracts meet the growing demand for natural ingredients, simultaneously combining the benefits of skin and hair care with a daily personal care ritual.

Lipoid Kosmetik offers an attractive selection of tea-based cosmetic extracts for a variety of applications. We offer classic tea extracts known for their stimulating and antioxidant effects, caffeine-free tea extracts suitable for relaxing and calming applications, and flower-based tea extracts perfectly suited to refreshing, vibrant and elegant beauty concepts.

Cfic Awards, innovation revealed

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The editorial staff
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CFIC logo

The Cfic (Carrefour des fournisseurs de l'industrie cosmétique) is a meeting place for industrial solutions in the cosmetics industry, focusing on the sector's major transitions (energy, environmental, digital, technological, societal). It will be held on November 21 and 22, 2023 at Eurexpo Lyon.

The Cfic Awards competition, organized to coincide with the show, invites us to discover the innovations, trends and strategic know-how needed to develop our business and transform it over the long term.

A veritable revealer of concrete solutions, the competition highlights both innovations already on the market and prototypes. Divided into four categories (environmental transition; energy transition; digital & digital transition; societal transition), 26 services and products (from 22 companies) were in the running for this first edition of the competition.

The awards ceremony will take place at the show, on Tuesday November 21, 2023, at 5pm (conference room).

The "Energy Transition" category rewards innovations that contribute to improving a company's energy balance: energy efficiency, energy sobriety, green energy, carbon neutrality, etc. The winner in this category is Bachiller B S.A. for its HRB external/internal recirculation homogenizer with adjustable air gap. The HRB homogenizer delivers optimum dispersion quality over a wide viscosity range, reducing production times and saving energy for the cosmetics company.

The "Digital Transition" category encompasses solutions that support companies in their digital transformation, but also successful digital transition initiatives in terms of cybersecurity, robotization, AI, cobotics or skills evolution... The Good Face project won the prize in this category. The idea: to revolutionize the beauty industry with Cara, an AI. which, thanks to its database, can answer precise technical questions in the face of a ChatGPT that lacks precision, particularly with regard to efficacy, verification of regulatory compliance, optimization and safety of formulas or preservation of the environment.

The "Societal Transition" category focuses on innovations that contribute to improving the company's social or societal values, more responsible actions, and the quality of relations within and with teams, customers or partners. Greez was singled out in this category for its innovative solution to combat the wasteful use of unsold cosmetics by giving them a second life (donations to non-profit networks, recycling, resale to consumers at reduced prices on a dedicated online store). This global approach to reuse echoes the needs of the underprivileged, since 3 million people in France go without basic hygiene products.

In the "Environmental Transition" category, which rewards major innovations dedicated to the environment (waste management, recycling, eco-design, water management, circular economy, flow management, etc.), BR Conditionnement was rewarded for Niugreen, its new innovative and industrial cleaning platform with high environmental value for the reuse of glass bottles. The use of bio-CO2 for bottle washing and label removal reduces the company's carbon footprint by over 50 % of CO2, compared with the traditional glass recycling process. Invisible ultraviolet ink marking also ensures individualized traceability and protection against counterfeiting.

The jury's "Coup de Coeur" was awarded to Futura Gaia (in the "Environmental Transition" category) for Geocosm, a resilient solution for the traceability and security of plant raw materials. This innovative vertical farm system based on rotating geoponics meets the challenge of sustainable, local, resilient and pesticide-free agriculture for the production of high-quality plant raw materials for the cosmetics, pharmaceutical and nutraceutical industries. This solution also makes it possible to reproduce the growing conditions of rare plants.

L'Oréal and Cosmo International Fragrances unleash the olfactory power of natural ingredients through green science

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The editorial staff
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L'Oreal_Cosmo

The L'Oréal group today announced an exclusive and unprecedented partnership with Cosmo International Fragrances. The aim is to develop an extraction process based on green science. This technology promises to revolutionize the art of fine perfumery. Developed by Cosmo International Fragrances and made available exclusively to L'Oréal, this patent-pending process uses a slow, water-free, low-energy extraction. It reveals the exact scent of an ingredient while preserving its integrity. It relies on green science to push back olfactory frontiers, considerably expanding the perfumer's olfactory palette with pure, natural 100 % extracts.

"We're delighted to be partnering with Cosmo International Fragrances, and that the power of Open Innovation will enable us to go "from field to fragrance" while honoring the sustainability commitments of our L'Oréal for the Future program. With this green extraction process, we can capture the olfactory power of flowers in all their authenticity, as if we were walking through a garden, a field or a forest, said Barbara Lavernos, Executive Vice President, Research, Innovation and Technology at L'Oréal. With over 100 perfumery experts within the group, this exclusive partnership is a masterstroke at the very heart of the perfume industry."

L'Oréal and Cosmo International Fragrances share the same vision: to create luxury fragrances using innovative, sustainable methods that enhance natural ingredients while limiting environmental impact. Using only air, this technology exploits the fragrant volatile molecules of flowers, fruits and other natural ingredients, without resorting to traditional distillation processes or the use of chemical solvents. Flowers retain their integrity and can be recycled and reused in a second extraction, helping to reduce waste.

"Perfumers dreamed of it: creating fragrances with authentic scents has become a reality, the ultimate luxury in quality! With Cosmo International Fragrances, our brands can explore new creative avenues, letting natural ingredients reveal their full olfactory identity.said Cyril Chapuy, General Manager of L'Oréal Luxe. As the world leader in luxury fragrances, we are committed to ensuring that the entire fragrance value chain is sustainable. It's not just a choice: it's a conviction. From the selection of ingredients to the use of refills, we innovate at every stage to reduce our impact and move towards a more responsible model. This partnership with Cosmo International Fragrances allows us to usher in a new creative era for our luxury fragrances."

"We're delighted to be working with our long-standing partner, L'Oréal, which is particularly well placed to harness the transformative capabilities of green science to produce fragrances on a large scale, said Marc Blaison, President of Cosmo International Fragrances. The combination of our expertise in luxury perfumery and our shared commitment to preserving the planet will enable us to offer perfume lovers the world over exceptional olfactory creations, produced responsibly thanks to a perfectly controlled process."

In a booming market where consumers are looking for unique accords and novelties, the first collaboration will involve the creation of a fragrance incorporating the natural floral signature of tuberose. Its launch is scheduled for 2024.

Photo: © Agence Odds

RejuveNAD naturally stimulates NAD+ for skin longevity

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The editorial staff
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Mibelle

NAD+ (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) plays a crucial role in various cellular processes and has received significant attention in anti-aging supplements. However, the use of NAD+ in cosmetics has so far been unsuccessful, as the molecule is not very stable in formulations and cannot be absorbed by skin cells.

Mibelle Biochemistry has developed a holistic solution for increasing NAD+ levels in the skin through cosmetic applications. Sourced from sunflower sprouts grown sustainably indoors, their formula naturally boosts the longevity molecule NAD+ to optimize cellular processes.

RejuveNAD is a new natural active ingredient that stimulates endogenous NAD+ regeneration by activating the NAMPT (Nicotinamide Phosphoribosyltransferase) enzyme. Clinical studies show that this active ingredient can simultaneously counteract at least 5 signs of skin aging: mitochondrial dysfunction, cellular senescence, loss of proteostasis, epigenetic alteration and genomic instability, making skin appear 8 years younger in just 42 days.

Benefits of RejuveNAD :

  • Increases NAD levels
  • Tackles the 5 characteristics of aging
  • Energizes mitochondria and promotes DNA repair
  • Makes skin look 8 years younger

Givaudan unveils an olfactory exploration of the new codes of love, according to Gen Z

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The editorial staff
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Givaudan What is love

Unfiltered, authentic and inclusive: as the laws of attraction continue to redefine themselves, Givaudan's perfumers have delivered their fragrant interpretations of love and seduction, as seen through the eyes of Gen Z.

Givaudan, the global specialist in fine fragrances, has revealed its new creative vision, "What is Love?", which translates the love language of Gen Z into fragrances and stages it through an immersive experience.

While 73 % of 16-24 year-olds in the USA, and 68 % in France consider perfume to be the tipping point that seals the feeling of love, "What is love?" brings to life Gen Z's definition of love and seduction, fueled by unfiltered digital exposure. With over 3.9 billion views gathered under the hashtag #PerfumeTok on TikTok, the fragrance demonstrates the central place it holds in Gen Z's emotional expression.

"What is love?" is the result of in-depth research, supported by consumer studies and extensive listening to social networks, to deliver the most relevant and nuanced olfactory interpretation of these new love codes, which celebrate inclusivity and the exaltation of emotions.

With absolute creative freedom, Givaudan's perfumers have transposed the values of authenticity and the search for true bonds so dear to the heart of Gen Z into exclusive accords.

Arnaud Guggenbuhl, Marketing and Image Director, Fine Fragrance Global: "Focusing on this Gen Z-led reinvention of sensuality, gender and relationships, "What is Love?" delivers a realistic interpretation of what "love" means to this generation. The central place given to vulnerability and the most authentic emotions represents an exceptional terrain of inspiration for our perfumers, who by connecting deeply with this disruptive and non-genre philosophy, have been able to shatter preconceived ideas around the notion of seduction and love in perfumery."

"Givaudan's expertise in analyzing and anticipating the expectations of future consumers takes on a new form thanks to this program, adds Xavier Renard, Director of Fine Fragrance Global. The result of extensive research over the last two years, "What is Love?" is a strategic opportunity to reappropriate a fundamental theme in perfumery: love, while exploring its new forms of expression specific to current and future generations."

The "What is love?" creations were presented during an immersive fragrance event that allowed us to dive into the world of Gen Z, from the intimacy of their bedrooms to their phone screens, and whose most spontaneous emotions make up the new vocabulary of love.

This exclusive experience took place in New York from September 18 to 29, in Paris from October 9 to 20, and was introduced at Beautyworld, in Dubai, from October 30 to November 1.

According to the company, "by going beyond stereotypes alongside Gen Z, Givaudan demonstrates its unique understanding of this free-spirited and exalted generation, the better to shape the future of perfumery."

(1) Givaudan internal quantitative survey

Cosnova eliminates all microplastics from its formulas.

By
The editorial staff
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Cosnova

At a time when the European Commission is announcing a gradual ban on the use of microplastics, Cosnova, a European make-up specialist based in Germany, announces that it has already eliminated 100 % of microplastics from all its Essence and Catrice products since March 2023.

A forthcoming European Commission directive on cosmetics and microplastics is set to shake up the industry: it will gradually introduce new requirements concerning microplastics. The ban will apply to all persistent synthetic particles smaller than 5 mm, and thus to cosmetics such as exfoliants and glitter.

The ban is part of the EU's efforts to reduce pollution. Microplastics are tiny particles of plastic that enter the oceans through the water cycle. The gradual implementation of the directive now concerns flakes or exfoliating beads contained in rinse-off products. Other products containing microplastics will benefit from a 12-year transition period. However, in eight years' time, these transitional products will have to bear the words "this product contains microplastics" until the definitive ban.

A priority for Cosnova since 2020 

Katrin Steinbach, an expert in Cosnova's Corporate Responsibility technical unit, reacts to the announcement: " As a company that has been pursuing an ambitious sustainability strategy for many years, we welcome the EU's decision. We began developing microplastic-free products three years ago, and have already revised all our existing products. Since March this year, all Essence and Catrice products have been 100 % microplastic-free.

All products from both brands that have a glittery effect, such as eyeshadow or nail polish, contain either biodegradable glitter or mineral particles such as mica.

For products with an exfoliating effect, such as lip scrubs, Cosnova also uses exclusively natural substances, such as sugar, plant bark powder or jojoba beads.

Here are a few examples of the alternatives to microplastic used by cosnova:

  • Mineral substances: effect pigments based on mica or silica (ethically degraded) effect pigments based on borosilicate and synthetic fluorophlogopite
  • Biodegradable sequins made from renewable materials, combined in different layers
  • Sugar
  • Lemon zest powder
  • Hardened jojoba oil
  • Bamboo powder

No more volatile silicones from 2025 

Eliminating microplastics is only one step. Cosnova is working on new formulas without volatile silicones. The spectrum of silicones and their uses is very broad, as is their impact on health and the environment. Like microplastics, these synthetic plastics are released into nature via wastewater. It is therefore very difficult to eliminate them. Cosnova intends to completely eliminate volatile silicones from its product formulas by 2025.

Product safety: one of Cosnova's five CSR pillars 

"As a major player in the beauty industry, cosnova takes its responsibilities to fundamentally reduce its ecological footprint. Beyond "product safety", the company continues to innovate around four other pillars: climate and environment, waste reduction, working conditions and employee social initiatives."the company says.

Axium Packaging sets up in Italy

By
The editorial staff
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Axium Packaging

Axium Packaging, which specializes in the manufacture of jars, bottles and closures in PET, recycled PET, & PP, PCR PP for the hygiene-beauty and food markets, has just completed a new external growth operation: the acquisition of the Italian company Silte srl.

Silte srl, a family-owned SME based in Budrio near Bologna, Italy, specializes in the manufacture of extrusion blow-molded and cold cycle blow-molded jars and bottles for the Italian hygiene-beauty, cosmetics and detergents markets. Founded in 1970, the company generates sales of 7.5 million euros and employs 25 people at its Italian production site.

The integration of Silte srl into the group enables Axium Packaging to strengthen its presence in Italy, and enhances the group's standard and specific packaging offer, while remaining in line with its strategic development objective: to offer its customers eco-designed packaging comprising a container and a customized closure solution.

Complementary in its plastic packaging offering, Silte srl will thus benefit from the synergy of development with the group's other entities to strengthen its product and service offering on the Italian market, particularly for the food industry.

This acquisition strengthens the position of the Axium Packaging Group, which is now present in Europe with five production sites employing 385 people and consolidated sales of almost €80 million after this acquisition.

Photo from www.axium-packaging.eu

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