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in-cosmetics Global returns to Paris

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The editorial staff
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in Cosmetics Global

in-cosmetics Global, the worldwide event dedicated to ingredients, will be held at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles from April 16 to 18, 2024. Over 12,500 participants from all over the world are expected to attend.

The 2024 edition will once again welcome over 900 leading suppliers of personal care ingredients, including notable industry players BASF, Lubrizol, Ashland, Symrise, Provital, Vytrus, and main sponsor KSM. Among the exhibitors, others will be present for the first time.

Back in the City of Lights, in-cosmetics Global 2024 will focus on local suppliers and companies to explore the country's strong influence on the market. Attendees will have the opportunity to meet over 150 French exhibitors, and discover exclusive product launches.

Specific pavilions will bring together suppliers sharing a common geographical origin. This year, participants can expect to meet a large number of suppliers from France, the UK, Spain, Brazil, South Africa, Indonesia, Peru and China.

Innovation in the spotlight

The 2024 edition will once again be a hub for knowledge exchange and innovation, welcoming participants to the innovation zone, technical seminars, the Formulation Lab®, R&D visits and the testing, regulatory and laboratory zone.

Over 150 new and recently launched ingredients from around the world will be showcased in the Innovation Zone, specially designed to enable cosmetics scientists and R&D professionals to identify new active and functional ingredients to inspire future formulations. All ingredients presented in this zone are entered in the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Awards.

More than 90 seminars will be held over the three days in three rooms. Formulation Lab" sessions, specially designed for research and development (R&D) and laboratory staff from cosmetics manufacturers and contract manufacturers, private labels and independent brands, will offer hands-on, interactive experiences on formulation techniques and practices. 

Expert-led R&D tours, sponsored by Mibelle Biochemistry, Probiotical and Symrise, will take participants to exhibitor stands selected according to the theme of the tour.

Other zones throughout the site include the Fragrance Zone, which will host prestigious perfume houses, producers and distributors of extracts and ingredients. The Tests, Regulations and Laboratories zone, in partnership with Skinobs, will offer innovative solutions to guarantee product safety, stability and shelf life. The adjacent Boost Your Test zone, offering cosmetic tests in-vitro, in-vivo and on devices, will also welcome participants to submit interactive and educational documents that captivate and educate.

Greener practices

With its unwavering commitment to sustainable development, the show will promote a more environmentally conscious industry by providing an essential platform to drive positive change. Following last year's success, the Sustainability Zone, in partnership with The Green Chemist Consultancy, promises to help and inspire suppliers and manufacturers along the path to sustainability.

New this year will be the Sustainability Zone Forum, a one-day program that will delve into the practices employed by companies throughout the cosmetics product lifecycle, as well as the interconnection with the various stakeholders engaged across the entire value chain. From carbon neutrality, circular/closed loop production, the use of data and artificial intelligence (AI) to regulatory updates and life cycle assessments (LCAs), the forum will host leaders in the field who will share and discuss new advances that can help achieve sustainability improvements and minimize environmental impact.

Ancillary activities included the "Sustainability Exhibition and Presentation Theater", sponsored by AAK, and the "Sustainability Pavilion", sponsored by Farmforce.

Roundtable discussions will provide an insight into the latest trends, breakthroughs and regulations shaping the sector. Carefully selected sessions will unveil the future of beauty and provide a holistic view of the market. Discussions will cover the latest trends in psychodermatology, which recognizes the complex link between our mental well-being and the health of our skin and hair, as well as next-generation beauty technology, hyperpersonalization and the omnichannel journey. Other sessions will focus on circular beauty, circadian skin care, men's skincare trends and more.

PAT Group wins EcoVadis Gold Medal for its CSR approach

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The editorial staff
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PAT - EcoVadis

The PAT Group has chosen to evaluate its CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility) performance with EvoVadis from 2021. After winning bronze in 2021 and silver in 2022, the group has just been awarded gold.

"CSR has been a fundamental pillar of PAT's identity since its creation. The PAT Group is fully committed to an innovative and sustainable approach, using production methods focused on preserving plants and the environment, and deploying a social and managerial policy that fosters dynamism, commitment and team performance."the company says.

The company is now one of the top 5 % best-performing CSR companies in its sector, as assessed by EcoVadis. Its overall score has risen by 38 % in two years - to 72/100 - earning it the Gold Medal.

A CSR policy incorporating a comprehensive environmental pillar in line with Ecovadis criteria, the implementation of concrete actions to reduce the environmental impact of its activities, such as the reduction of greenhouse gas emissions or waste management, and the setting up of an environmental reporting system to monitor progress made, make up the environmental component for which PAT has made significant progress, improving its score by 60 % in two years, from 50 to 80 out of 100.

In the social sphere, the Group maintained a score of 70 out of 100, with measures in favor of employee health and safety and skills development. 

Responsible purchasing also saw its score rise from 50 to 70 out of 100, thanks in particular to its policy of sourcing plant genetic resources for R&D. 

Strong, lasting commitments

PAT's CSR commitments go beyond EcoVadis requirements. They also apply to development, production and the products we offer.

In terms of production, PAT has always favored biocontrol and the use of natural products to combat insects and disease. Three years ago, the group was awarded the Haute Valeur Environnementale (HVE) label, attesting to the environmental performance of its farms.

In the area of development, the Group takes its initiatives one step further. Biodiversity protection is now an integral part of our product development strategy and our acquisition of genetic resources. 

On the supply side, the PAT Group is a member of the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO), an association that promotes the production of sustainable palm oil. PAT contributes to this approach by certifying seven of its products RSPO MB (Mass balance) since March 2023.

Westman Atelier and TNT Group design the packaging for Skin Activator Rollerball

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The editorial staff
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Westman Atelier and TNT Group

The American natural beauty brand behind an uncompromisingly luxurious line of make-up and skincare products, Westman Atelier has entrusted TNT Group with the manufacture of the packaging for its latest launch, Skin Activator Rollerball.

In keeping with the brand's codes, Skin Activator Rollerball's packaging features a removable ball applicator combined with a refillable and reusable device. 

TNT Group's patented concept, this removable stainless steel ball held in place by magnetization offers, according to TNT Group, unlimited fluid movement, as well as a cold-effect contact surface increased by 300 % compared with a conventional roll-on applicator.

Thanks to an integrated pump system, a single press on the refill bottle is all it takes to dispense the formula without the risk of back-air and contamination. After use, the applicator's removable ball can be completely washed, or even sterilized. The refill is easily replaced with a key.  

An integrated pump system now makes it possible to dispense the formula at the touch of a button on the refill bottle, with no risk of back-air or contamination. After use, the applicator's removable ball can be completely washed and even sterilized. What's more, the refill can be easily replaced with a key.  

" After seeing the concept of the removable rollerball, inspiration immediately struck and I imagined a refillable skincare product, taking up our brand's unique aesthetic codes and incorporating this patented rollerball. This customized refillable packaging illustrates the brand's 3D design language that I created when I set up Westman Atelier. One of my favorite quotes that reflects my approach to packaging design at Westman Atelier is 'Details are not details; they make the design', Charles Eames," explains Angela Piner, Chief Design Officer at Westman Atelier.

Among these details: the disruptive proportion of the silhouette, the customized thickness of the aluminum to obtain a recessed logo defined in depth, the engraved brand on the inside of the hood, the fine, revealing lines of the sharp-edged flush base. As well as the metal details combining a customized gold bead and a shotgun barrel pump. The tactile matte finish is a customized white shade with a hint of pink created by Piner for the launch of Westman Atelier's new skincare line.

Angela Piner adds " For any innovation, functionality is paramount in packaging design. This required collaboration between engineering (Gina Bueti, Engineering at Westman Atelier), myself and TNT Group to maximize ease of use for the consumer, which is reflected in the system for replacing the glass refill flush with the base, thanks to a key."

The Skin Activator Rollerball range includes two 20 ml serum refill bottles, one of which is pre-loaded in the device. The refill bottles are made of drawn, lacquered glass. nude then screen-printed. A screw neck ensures that parts can be refilled and recycled once separated.

"TNT Group is very proud to have worked alongside Westman Atelier, a prestigious brand that is particularly demanding in terms of the quality and authenticity of the skincare and make-up products it creates. "concludes Boris Schaefer, VP Sales at TNT Group USA.

Julie Rosenkrantz, General Manager France Benelux for the Yves Rocher brand

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The editorial staff
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Julie ROSENKRANTZ - Yves Rocher

Yves Rocher has announced the appointment of Julie Rosenkrantz as General Manager for France and Benelux.

Julie Rosentkrantz joined Yves Rocher over twenty years ago and has spent her entire career there. Before becoming General Manager France and Benelux, she had been General Manager & Retail for the brand in Benelux since 2020.

She was previously Marketing Director for Yves Rocher Benelux between 2009 and 2019, and has solid experience in retail, holding the position of Retail Director between 2020 and 2023, in addition to her role as General Manager.

"I am deeply honored by the confidence that Guillaume Darrousez has shown in me by appointing me to this position. I am convinced of the potential of our Yves Rocher brand, driven in particular by our unrivalled botanical expertise and the unfailing commitment of each and every one of our employees. I will work hard every day to pursue our sustainable growth dynamic and enable as many women as possible to benefit from healthy, natural and recognized products. "she said.

"I'm delighted to see Julie officially take up her post today. I'm convinced that her expertise in retail and marketing will be a considerable asset in the task she has taken on today. Her performances in other markets where the brand is present have demonstrated her qualities, and I'm looking forward to seeing her work in the French market", added Guillaume Darrousez, General Manager of the Yves Rocher brand and member of the Rocher Group Executive Committee.

Mascaras in recycled aluminum

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The editorial staff
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Chanel Parfums Beauté and g.pivaudran - Mascaras in recycled aluminum

Chanel Parfums Beauté and g.pivaudran are collaborating on the large-scale launch of a mascara with recycled aluminum packaging. This innovation will be presented at Paris Packaging Week, January 17-18, 2024.

After several years of research into the use of recycled aluminum in the packaging of luxury cosmetics, Chanel, g.pivaudran and Constellium, the aluminum supplier, have succeeded in their gamble: include an increasing proportion of PCR material in the aluminum used in luxury packaging, while keeping Chanel's high standards under control.

The new primary packs for Chanel's "Le Volume", "Le Volume Révolution" and "Le Volume Stretch" mascaras will now contain between 10 % and 20 % of post-consumer recycled (PCR) aluminum, depending on the decor models.

"In a sector where innovation is essential, g.pivaudran is committed to helping Chanel Parfums Beauté position itself as a major player in responsible beauty, combining elegance and environmental commitment".explains g.pivaudran.

The manufacturer of metal components was able to overcome the technical challenges, ensuring in advance that the project would be carried out despite some major unknowns: the technical suitability of the material to be processed by deep drawing and to maintain the quality of the smooth or brushed decor, depending on the matte or gloss appearance at the end of the range, the behavior and aesthetic rendering during anodizing and the ability to guarantee stable raw material quality despite the addition of recycled material.

Experiments were carried out as early as 2018. "The challenge of producing a part, already technically complex in deep drawing on standard aluminum, while perfectly meeting Chanel's quality requirements, was fully met. The approvals from the technical and quality teams have come in, confirming the intensive upstream work carried out by the teams during the numerous tests".emphasizes g.pivaudran.

G.pivaudran will be presenting Chanel mascaras made from recycled aluminum at Paris Packaging Week, to be held at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles on January 17 and 18, 2024.

Other projects are underway with the Chanel Parfums Beauté teams. They will be presented in 2024.

An innovative, environmentally-friendly CIP solution

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The editorial staff
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EcoCIP Industrial Installation

Foselev and Elodys International present EcoCIP, a new generation of CIP stations that reinvents industrial cleaning by integrating a state-of-the-art process for unlimited reuse of cleaning solutions. This innovative technology, based on a patented coagulation, flocculation and decantation process, is the brainchild of chemistry and process experts Gilles Tastayre in Canada and Dr. Mehdi Dif in France.

EcoCIP is the result of Foselev Process Solutions' experience in building CIP stations and Elodys' regeneration of CIP solutions, which consists in natively embedding Elodys' GrennCIP technology in a standardized, eternally recyclable CIP station, economically equivalent to traditional CIP stations.

According to its designers, "EcoCIP marks a turning point in traditional CIP practices, offering a more sustainable and cost-effective approach."

No need for pre-rinse, for greater efficiency

Conventional CIPs begin their cycle with a pre-rinse of water to remove the majority of soils and avoid introducing impurities into the caustic solutions. EcoCIP saves water, time and energy by making this step superfluous, thanks to GreenCIP's eternal detergent regeneration technology. 

Tests and experience in the dairy industry have also shown that regenerated caustic solutions have considerably better surfactant properties than fresh caustic solutions. Dr. Dif's thesis measured and explained the extent to which the detergent efficiency of eternally recycled soda or potash, by increasing detergency and de-bacterializing action, can reduce cycle times.

Reducing consumption and choosing detergents

This raises the question of detergent choice. With this new solution, the choice is no longer guided solely by the quality-price ratio of a CIP detergent, which for a long time led to a preference for soda ash. With EcoCIP CIP regenerating detergent, it is possible to choose the type of detergent on the basis of other criteria, in particular washing efficiency and the ease with which the soiled detergent concentrate, rich in BOD and COD, can be recycled.

The clarified detergent supernatant obtained from the EcoCIP CIP plant regeneration process provides a solution ready for reuse in future CIP cycles. The clarified supernatant, obtained in sludge form, can be used to support the activities of the CIP plant, or can be spread in an environmentally-friendly way, depending on the choice of detergent (particularly for potash).

Michael Conti, new Vice President of Mibelle Biochemistry USA

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The editorial staff
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Michael Conti, new Vice President of Mibelle Biochemistry USA

Michael Conti joined Mibelle Biochemistry as Vice President of Mibelle Biochemistry USA on January 1, 2024, to lead the U.S. sales and marketing team. 

Michael Conti has worked in the cosmetic ingredients industry for over 20 years, and brings a wealth of experience and expertise to Mibelle Biochemistry as we develop and grow the US market.

"We are confident that his vision, strategic thinking and commitment to excellence will contribute greatly to Mibelle Biochemistry's continued success."said Cornelia Schürch, Managing Director of Mibelle Biochemistry.

"I'm very excited about joining Mibelle Biochemistry for many reasons. First of all, I believe that Mibelle Biochemistry has great growth potential in the United States, as consumers are looking for better skincare products that combine nature and technology. Mibelle is well placed to meet these higher consumer expectations. I've heard only the best things about Mibelle Biochemistry from many friends in the industry. I've also been impressed by all the people I've met at Mibelle, says Michael Conti. Secondly, I have fond memories of my first job in the cosmetics industry with a Swiss company. I believe that Swiss quality and technology are renowned the world over."

dsm-firmenich appoints five noses as Principal Perfumers

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The editorial staff
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dsm-firmenich appoints five noses as Principal Perfumers

Amandine Clerc-Marie, Bruno Jovanovic, Clément Gavarry, Dora Baghriche and Gabriela Chelariu join dsm-firmenich's elite Fine Fragrance team.

"We are delighted to announce the promotion of five exceptionally talented perfumers to the prestigious position of Senior Perfumer," said Emmanuel Butstraen, President of dsm-firmenich Perfumery & Beauty. Their dedication, creativity and passion for the art of perfumery have not only greatly contributed to the success of our company, but have also elevated the olfactory experiences we offer our customers and consumers around the world."

"Each of these perfumers has demonstrated an exceptional ability to create unique and captivating fragrances that resonate with our customers and consumers, adds Jerry Vittoria, head of the Global Fine Fragrance, Perfumery & Beauty division. Their promotion is a testament to their expertise, hard work, innovation and commitment to excellence."

Responsible for numerous fragrances, including Burberry Goddess, launched in 2023, Paris-based Amandine Clerc-Marie sees herself as a sculptor of the invisible, transforming materials and working on the volumes of each composition. She sees perfume creation as something similar to architecture, building perfumes as a construction with precise shapes and solid foundations that support the entire structure.

Also based in Paris, Bruno Jovanovic is fascinated by the smells that surround him. Inspired by artists and intellectuals, he combines creativity and audacity. Having spent half his career in the United States, his creations express both unbridled American freedom and sophisticated French heritage. He has created fragrances for some of the industry's most prestigious brands, most recently Montblanc Explorer Platinum.

Frenchman Clément Gavarry is inspired by the effervescence and dynamism of New York, where he has lived since 2000. A highly versatile perfumer, he comes from three generations of perfume experts. He has scored numerous successes in the United States and Europe, notably with Ariana Grande Cloud.

Paris-based Dora Baghriche is a creator at heart. A woman of letters, her first passion was writing, before falling in love with perfumes. Born in Algiers, where she spent her childhood, she approaches perfume creation with a contemporary vision, reviving cult raw materials and ingredients. She has created classics, most recently the award-winning Rabanne Fame and Narciso Rodriguez All of Me.

New York-based Gabriela Chelariu tells beautiful fragrance stories through her creations, linking her past to her present. She grew up in a small town in Romania, where the scents of nature guided her towards the world of fine perfumery. She studied at Romania's University of Pharmacy and learned about perfumery by working in a research laboratory for a flavorings company. Her visit to Grasse was a revelation. Her most recent successes include key launches for Bath & Body Works and Kayali by Mona Kattan.

Photo
- top, left to right: Gabriela Chelariu, Bruno Jovanovic, Amandine Clerc-Marie
- bottom, left to right: Dora Baghriche , Clément Gavarry

Éclosia, for pregnant and nursing women

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The editorial staff
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Eclosia

Launched by Lauriane Rhée in November 2023, the Éclosia brand offers a range of 100 % cosmetics of natural and vegan origin for the sensitive skin of pre- and post-natal women.

Éclosia's three products - a toning soufflé body cream, a nourishing oil elixir for the body and a velvety day and night moisturizer for the face - can be used from the first month of pregnancy and after the post-partum period, and are specially designed for this skin type. 

The idea: to offer healthy, natural and sensorial products that enable women to reconnect with their bodies.

Products designed with moms in mind

According to a survey conducted by OpinionWay in June 2022, one woman in two says she can't distinguish between good and bad ingredients. 73 % trust only a selection of products during this period, despite the fact that pregnancy can be accompanied by a hormonal imbalance leading to skin problems such as irritation, tightness, hyperpigmentation, excess sebum and dryness.

To prevent the deleterious effects of hormonal imbalance, Éclosia skin care products are designed to protect the skin during and after pregnancy. A synergy of natural active ingredients and probiotics specific to each product has been formulated to be in affinity with the skin's flora during this period. 

"All products have been clinically tested and approved for pregnant and breastfeeding women. Skin flora is restored to 92 % according to a clinical study carried out on 12 pregnant women over 28 days."says Éclosia.

Éclosia products are made in partnership with French SMEs and a workshop employing disabled people. The packaging is eco-responsible (glass and wood, FSC case, vegetable-based inks).

Photo taken from www.eclosiaskincare.com.

A manipulator equipped with a specific hook gripping tool for handling drums and buckets

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The editorial staff
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Dalmec-Manip Posivel for buckets

Dalmec presents a new Posivel PVC column-mounted industrial manipulator, custom-designed and developed for handling, picking up and moving drums and pails off the production line, and placing them on pallets or transfer carts. Target markets: food, cosmetics, chemicals and pharmaceuticals.

This double-cable manipulator helps operators transfer products with great flexibility, particularly when palletizing or depalletizing buckets or cans. Ergonomic, it acts as a real load balancer.

A special feature of this new version of the Posivel PVC is its special hooked gripping tool, which adapts to the shape of the handles of buckets of varying sizes, shapes and weights, to facilitate handling. To guarantee maximum operator safety, the gripping tool is connected to the manipulator's terminal arm by two independent steel cables.  

Load balancing is automatic, allowing the bucket - weighing up to 60 kg - to be picked up safely, with controlled, balanced handling. 

This pneumatic manipulator is particularly suitable for effortless manual handling of light loads in all directions. It features a double-articulated arm structure with an intermediate joint, ensuring smooth, precise movements throughout the working area. In this particular case, the Posivel PVC manipulator has been designed to effortlessly perform repetitive and meticulous manipulations, offering a large radius of action of up to 2600 mm. 

From a technical point of view, a pneumatic cylinder powered by compressed air, coupled to a double-cable transmission system, balances the applied load. The cylinder amplifies the lifting and lowering action, which is applied manually by the operator to the gripping tool or directly to the load. 

Last but not least, this manipulator can be fully integrated into cramped working environments, thanks to its evolutionary structure and the infinite possibilities of varying the shapes and dimensions of the terminal arm. As a result, all movements in space are unrestricted, and the operator can effortlessly move the load to any point in the work area, with the utmost ease and in optimum ergonomic and safety conditions. 

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