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Boet Brinkgreve appointed CEO of Laboratoire de Haute Parfumerie et Beauté, a new Richemont entity

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site-industries-cosmetiques A glass building with an automatic sign in front of it.

On September 1, 2023, Swiss luxury giant Richemont appointed Boet Brinkgreve as CEO of its new Laboratoire de Haute Parfumerie et Beauté division.

"I would like to (...) welcome Boet Brinkgreve to Richemont and its Executive Committee. Boet will establish and lead our new Laboratoire de Haute Parfumerie et Beauté to enable our six Maisons already involved in perfumery to achieve critical mass in this highly competitive field, where scale is crucial. In partnership with the Maisons, and while respecting their unique high-end positioning, the platform will harness the resources of our Maisons to help develop the finest creations and most promising licenses."said Johann Rupert, Chairman of Richemont.

"Mr. Boet's role will be instrumental in enabling our Houses to reach their full potential in this dynamic market, expanding their customer base while enhancing the Houses' abilities to meet the needs of their highly demanding clientele. With his in-depth knowledge of the fragrance industry, his previous successes in leading new ventures, his remarkable experience in building winning international teams, and his commitment to sustainable ingredient sourcing, I am convinced that Boet will be a major asset to the group."continued Johann Rupert.

Before being appointed CEO of Richemont's Laboratoire de Haute Parfumerie et Beauté in 2023, Boet Brinkgreve held a number of senior positions at dsm-firmenich from 2007 to 2023, most recently as President of the Group's Ingredients and Sourcing Division and member of the dsm-firmenich Executive Committee. Prior to joining dsm-firmenich, he founded several start-ups and then worked for DuPont in business development functions from 2003 to 2007.

Photo: ©Richemont

Towards less harmful silicones

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site-industries-cosmetiques Different types of skin care products on a white surface.

Silicones ("polysiloxanes") are used in numerous industrial applications, from cosmetics to aerospace.

"Nevertheless, during their synthesis, cyclic oligosiloxanes can be formed, small molecules some of which are classified as toxic for the environment and suspected of being endocrine disruptors", reminds the CNRS.

Led by a CNRS researcher, a team of scientists from the Fundamental and Applied Heterochemistry Laboratory (CNRS/Université de Toulouse Paul Sabatier), Elkem Silicones and the Department of Chemistry at the Autonomous University of Barcelona have developed a process for synthesizing silicones from cyclic siloxanes in a cleaner, more environmentally-friendly way, while preventing the formation of these impurities in the finished product. 

These results have been published in the scientific journal Science. According to the CNRS, they could have considerable spin-offs for the industrial sector.

Skinobs sets out preclinical and clinical test highlights for the first half of 2023

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site-industries-cosmetiques A young woman posing happily in front of a tree.

Skinobs' half-yearly report for the first half of 2023 (S1-2023) analyses the development of research themes carried out on its two platforms dedicated to preclinical testing (in-silico, in-tubo, in-vitroor ex-vivo...) and clinical (in-vivo on humans) in cosmetics compared to the same period in 2022. 

Their significance is based, on the one hand, on the virtually exhaustive and independent referencing of laboratories, methods, devices, claims, studies and mechanisms of action worldwide and, on the other hand, on the volume of research carried out by evaluation managers over this period, represented by over 5,000 users of 66 nationalities. 

Produced twice a year, this report guides brands and players in the testing sector in their preferred cosmetics topics, in anticipation of product launches.

Clinical tests: the boom in consumer tests

  • Hydration jumps 12 points to account for almost half (49 %) of the claims searched on platforms in the first half of 2022. "Hydration was known to be the most sought-after claim in the clinical testing category. In clinical evaluation, hydration qualifies skin as hydrated, healthy and toned, resisting aggression and pollution, less inflamed and less subject to the signs of aging. It's both a claim and a skin condition that reflects the quality of a cosmetic product and the well-being of consumers. So it's not surprising that hydration is at the top of the list. This claim is also the one linked to the largest number of methods and measuring instruments for its evaluation. The platforms list over 25. This may explain the rise in searches. 
  • The skin barrier claim enters the charts significantly with 18% of searches. It is part of a post-covid trend and characterizes a new posture in cosmetics, which wants to protect the skin more, hence the recent concept of "Healthy Skin", but also the attention paid to sensitive skin. This claim is related to immunity, and generally applies to the evaluation of innovative ingredients designed to boost it.
  • The hygiene segment makes a comeback in the type of products searched for: most other skincare products - Face, Hair, Body, Make-up and Suncare - remain in stable proportions compared to 2022, leaving a new 5% share of searches to hygiene products, which would have accounted for 10% of the global beauty market in 2022 according to L'Oréal estimates (excluding Toothpaste, Soap, Razor and Blades), again a consequence of a post-covid hygienization process. 
  • Anti-aging is declining overall, with claims for soothing, anti-inflammatory and sensitive skin gaining 10 points.
  • The boom in consumer tests: while biometrological skin/cheek/nail tests remain in first place with 51% of research in 2023, they are giving way to tolerance tests, which are continuing their upward trend already begun in 2022 (17% S1-2023), and above all to consumer tests, which are up 8 points to 21% of research vs 13% in 2022. "I think consumer testing is benefiting from the neurosensory trend. It's also the result of improving the platform to which we've added laboratories who, thanks to digital, have established standard and targeted routine protocols, says Anne Charpentier. The advent of nomadic methods in conjunction with digital tools also means that volunteers can be canvassed more precisely and efficiently. Digital tools are invaluable allies when it comes to building up databases and processing them appropriately. Last but not least, regulations imposing stricter proof requirements - six criteria of veracity - certainly influence this increase. "

Preclinical testing: new claims, new advice, UV testing in-vitro and ecotoxicity tests among the typical tests sought

In the sum of the research carried out, there is no single predominant claim. This homogeneous distribution is explained by the fact that the proofs of concept are common to many subjects.

"What's newcomments Anne Charpentier, One example is the "non-toxic photo" claim, which corresponds to 8 % of research and validates the non-toxicity of products when they interact with the sun. One might assume a recent awareness."

Three other new claims make their appearance, linked to the notion of exposome, which identifies all the environmental factors to which we are exposed, or even overexposed, notably the blue light from our screens and pollution. "Anti-blue light" (9 %), "anti-pollution" (8 %) and the more generic "barrier function" (10 %) together account for over a quarter of searches on the platform.

The "anti-aging" claim is still in the lead. As a reminder, it calls on sophisticated biometrology technologies and tools, with different options for quantitative and/or visual validation. Clinically, "the "anti-ageing" claim, which has become well-ageing, refers to the biomechanical properties of the skin, unlike hydration, which is characterized on a physiological level".says Anne Charpentier. Anti-ageing is an umbrella claim associated with sub-claims such as spots, pigmentation, wrinkles, sagging, radiance, surface condition, skin structure, etc.

Linerless decorative solutions

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site-industries-cosmetiques A person inserts a roll of paper into an automatic machine.

Avery Dennison's new range will be unveiled at Labelexpo 2023 alongside the latest innovations in connected packaging.

At Labelexpo Europe 2023, to be held in Brussels from September 11 to 14, 2023, Avery Dennison will launch AD LinrSave and AD LinrConvert, the first generation of decorative solutions. linerless based on patented microperforation technology. These solutions will significantly reduce label waste, lower CO2 and water footprints, while ensuring the functionality and shelf appeal of self-adhesive labels. This marks the next step in Avery Dennison's innovation journey, enabling the industry to move towards a more sustainable and connected future.

"AD LinrSave and AD LinrConvert are easy to integrate into existing equipment, and with up to 80 % more labels per roll, they enable more efficient production with fewer changeovers, explains Wayne Middleton, Senior Linerless Segment Lead EMENA at Avery Dennison. These more durable, linerless labels can be easily and accurately applied to a wide range of packaging types used in sectors such as food and beverages, wine and spirits, as well as household and personal care products."

These developments follow the April launch of AD XeroLinr DT, a durable, linerless alternative for variable-information labels.

Avery Dennison will also showcase the latest examples of "connected" packaging, with a series of tagged prototypes using RFID and NFC technologies.

At the event, Avery Dennison will host a series of 30-minute interactive "roundtables" on the latest sustainability trends and regulatory changes affecting the packaging industry:

  • "How ecodesign can help you create more sustainable packaging".
  • "The Packaging and Packaging Waste Regulation (PPWR), explained"
  • "How the carbon footprint can help you measure environmental impact".
  • "The Digital Product Passport (DPP): What is it and what opportunity does it hold for you?"
  • "Chemical Strategy for Sustainable Development: What is it and how does it affect you?"

Steve Flannery, Senior Vice President and General Manager of Materials Group EMENA, comments: "At Avery Dennison, we place sustainability at the heart of everything we do, and envision a connected and circular future. Labelexpo is a great opportunity for us to showcase our new solutions and engage with our partners and customers on the key issues that will shape the future of our industry over the next few years, such as digital product passports and packaging and packaging waste regulations."

Lipoid Kosmetik renews its Platinum EcoVadis status for the fourth time

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site-industries-cosmetiques Ecovadis Platinum Sustainability Award for Brouillon auto.

Lipoid Kosmetik, a leading manufacturer of natural raw materials for the cosmetics and personal care industry, reports on its sustainability success, recognized by EcoVadis, the world leader in the assessment and rating of corporate social responsibility and sustainable development practices.

EcoVadis evaluates sustainability initiatives in various categories, including environment, labor and human rights, ethics and sustainable procurement. To date, over 100,000 companies across a variety of countries and industries work with EcoVadis. Despite the vastly increasing number of companies assessed, Lipoid Kosmetik has been ranked among the top 1 % performers since 2016.

"We are immensely proud to have once again received this prestigious recognition from EcoVadis, said Peter Röthlisberger, Managing Director of Lipoid Kosmetik. Sustainability is at the heart of our corporate philosophy, and this achievement underscores our commitment to implementing and maintaining sustainable practices, and having a positive impact on the environment, society and the industry as a whole."

A vibrant bag, thanks to its holographic finish

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site-industries-cosmetiques A piece of paper with a purple pattern.

Inspired by the biofabrication trend, where organic forms meet technology and AI, the bag's decor designed by Rissmann mimics the complexity of human cell tissue, thanks to the light that brings its colors to life, making them glow and vibrate with a thousand sparkles. 

This 3D rendering is achieved with a holographic finish on metallic hues, making this unique bag a work in constant evolution.

The bag, with its glued cotton handle, is made from 100 % recycled fibers, including 60 % from PCW materials. It is FSC-certified.

Rissmann creates, develops and manufactures exceptional paper packaging - custom-made bags, boxes and caskets - that display the unique character of luxury brands in fashion, cosmetics, perfumes, jewelry, spirits or technology.

Technical specifications of the vibrating bag :

  • 3D effect
    Offset printing, light violet
  • Transfer finish, dark purple, glossy and embossed
  • Glossy, glittering, reflective, flat holograms

Laboratoires Expanscience unveil their 1st mission report

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site-industries-cosmetiques A poster with the words "conseils infantiles et ressources".

Laboratoires Expanscience, which became a mission-driven company in 2021, has published its first mission report. Having committed to becoming regenerative by 2040, this report marks an important milestone in the company's transition, and in the achievement of its CSR objectives.

"Helping people shape their own well-being is our raison d'être. We are convinced that good health no longer depends solely on individual choices and therapeutic treatments. The well-being of individuals and the health of the planet are collective and interdependent issues. The situation is urgent: our planet is facing unprecedented social, climatic and environmental challenges, and I'm convinced that companies are part of the solution. As such, we have made our raison d'être our backbone and our compass. This report shows where that compass is taking us, and more importantly, where we are. While I'm proud of how far we've come since signing the United Nations Global Compact in 2004, I'm also aware that wanting to become a better company for the world means doing even more.comments Jean-Paul Berthomé, Chairman of Laboratoires Expanscience.

A raison d'être, "Helping people shape their well-being

To translate its raison d'être into concrete actions, Expanscience relies on four statutory objectives and its impACT CSR program, co-constructed in 2021 with 40 employees.

The Mission 2022 report takes stock of Expanscience's progress in meeting its four social and environmental objectives. These include:

  • Design products and services that are useful for well-being, eco-socially designed, and increasingly inspired by nature and the living world. 

100 % of new Mustela products designed and manufactured in 2022 follow an eco-socio-design approach. All Mustela product ranges contain an average of 95 % of ingredients of natural origin.

100 % of Expanscience cosmetic active ingredients are of natural origin, and 33 % are certified organic, or equivalent, or fair trade.

  • Contribute to achieving global climate objectives and protecting and regenerating biodiversity

Expanscience has reduced its carbon intensity by almost 8 % in 2022.

Expanscience has pursued and reinforced its decarbonization and energy sobriety initiatives, notably at its production and R&D Innovation site in Eure-et-Loir: purchase of biomethane production certificates as part of its energy contract, shutdown of one of its three main boilers, ISO 50 001 certification.

All our employees worldwide have been trained in the Climate Fresco.

Expanscience is moving towards integrated carbon accounting to "count what counts" in its day-to-day operations and in its investment requests to guide its decisions.

  • Helping employees to play an active role in their own development and building a more inclusive and supportive company with them An equality index 

Women-Men rated 99 out of 100 in France A comprehensive benefits audit carried out in all Expanscience subsidiaries, with the aim of implementing a Care Policy by the end of 2023.

85 % of Expanscience subsidiaries certified Great Place to Work.

  • Mobilize our communities and ecosystem to build a business model with a positive impact on society, individuals and their environment. 

93% of Expanscience's strategic suppliers assessed their environmental and social practices on EcoVadis. Gradual transformation of the Mustela brand offering in line with Expanscience's impACT program and the roadmap defined by the brand at the Convention des Entreprises pour le Climat (CEC).

Expanscience is one of the 14 sponsors of the "Pulp in Action" consortium: a research and development project dedicated to packaging issues, focusing on the use of cellulose fibers as an alternative to plastic.

Towards a regenerative model

The report highlights the transformation undertaken by Expanscience to build a positive impact business model and become a regenerative company by 2040. With this in mind, Expanscience's objectives include:

To phase out the manufacture and marketing of Mustela wipes, which currently account for 20% of the brand's sales, by 2027.

Validate a trajectory for reducing greenhouse gas emissions (scopes 1, 2, 3) compatible with limiting global warming to 1.5°C by 2030 as part of its commitment to the SBTi (Science Based Targets initiatives).

Complete a biodiversity footprint by 2023 and define an action plan by 2024 to reduce the impact of our activities on ecosystems and help restore their capacity to regenerate.

To have all its subsidiaries worldwide certified Great Place To Work by 2025.

Deploy experiments to test new regenerative models (offers, services, partnerships, etc.) through its Lab impACT, which brings together internal and external players working to promote the transition of Expanscience and its ecosystem.

"Expanscience is a family-run ETI, and that's a real blessing. This governance allows us to make bold choices and rethink our business model to reduce and replace negative externalities. Our aim is to gradually shift, by learning, towards a business model that is compatible with planetary limits, and that regenerates living and non-living ecosystems. This first report confirms that we're on the right track... but that there's still work to be done!"says Karen Lemasson, CSR and Open Innovation Director at Laboratoires Expanscience.

Avek group acquires Fourignon and Reysset printing plants

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site-industries-cosmetiques Models for beauty products.

Since June 15, 2023, the Avek Group's growth has accelerated with the integration of two new entities: Fourignon Étiquettes and its subsidiary Reysset, located in Villefranche-sur-Saône and Bergerac respectively. This strategic decision marks an important step in the Avek Group's growth path, and reinforces its position as a key player in the printing industry.

Located in the heart of the Beaujolais and Bergerac wine-growing regions, Fourignon Étiquettes and Reysset are key players in the manufacture of self-adhesive labels for all wine professionals. They have also developed a strong industrial presence with well-known groups in the household appliances, automotive and pharmaceutical sectors.

For the Avek group, this is the guarantee of a new and varied clientele made up of craftsmen, shopkeepers, SMEs, multinational industries and, of course, winegrowers.

For Fourignon et Reysset, it's an opportunity to access new skills to foster innovation, stimulate excellence and create long-term value. Customer projects will be the focus of joint reflection, under the guidance of experts in printing techniques and graphic design.

"All these acquisitions confirm our ambition to support our customers in a global approach to adding value to their printed products".says Axel Lamotte, Group President.

The Avek group (8.7M turnover in 2022) brings together label and traditional print solutions printers, as well as a graphic design studio in south-east France. It will be present at Luxe Pack Monaco from October 2 to 4, 2023. It will be showcasing its latest innovations in terms of creative support, self-adhesive label printing, packaging and environmental protection.

A source of vitality for deficient skin 

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site-industries-cosmetiques Three women pose for a photo in front of a white background.

Revilience is a natural vitalizing active ingredient derived from the bacterium Sphingomonas panaciterraeThis new formula restores the skin's "vitality signature" by regulating the biological pathways involved in skin cell metabolism and protection. Thanks to its rapid action, the complexion's radiance is enhanced and hydration is improved after just seven days of application.

Ginseng is known to impose numerous modifications and deficiencies on its environment, impacting the availability of nutrients, particularly nitrogen. 

Sphingomonas panaciterraean incredible source of vitality

To survive in this hostile environment, the bacteria Sphingomonas panaciterraepresent in the ginseng rhizosphere, deploys protective mechanisms via the production of sphingane-type Exopolysaccharides (EPS). It thus displays bio-protective and bio-stimulant properties for itself and its host, conferring an incredible "vitality capital" that Silab has chosen to enhance in its Revilience active ingredient.

Bioguiding and enzyme engineering

Silab then developed a biotechnological process for controlled nitrogen deficiency applied to Sphingomonas panaciterraewhich doubled its EPS production compared with a non-deficient process. Coupled with specific enzymatic hydrolysis, this unique bio-inspired approach has resulted in an active ingredient composed of oligosphinganes of interest, capable of improving the metabolism of skin lacking vitality.

Modelling based on omics 

Drawing on its solid scientific expertise based on transcriptomics, Silab has mapped the genes of skins subjected to nutritional deficiency (growth factor depletion) or physiological deficiency (aging), thanks to an unprecedented modeling study. These two deficiency conditions revealed a common degradation of epidermal cell metabolism and protection mechanisms. 

Regained vitality

By reactivating these biological pathways in deficient skin, Revilience restores the skin's "vitality signature". Cellular metabolism is thus stimulated and the quality of the cutaneous barrier reinforced. Tested at 2.5 % on young and mature Caucasian volunteers, the active ingredient enhances complexion radiance and improves hydration as early as seven days after application. 

Revilience is a patented natural active ingredient, recommended in all skincare products for skin lacking vitality at a dose of 0.5 to 2.5 %. Available in aqueous solution, it is easy to formulate. It complies with biodiversity regulations and has a natural origin content of 98.8% (ISO 16128). It complies with international cosmetics regulations (Europe, USA, China, Japan, and more).

Givaudan's ScalpSure combats the roots of bad hair odour

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site-industries-cosmetiques A long-haired woman holds a cup of coffee while using a selfie stick.

Givaudan, a global player in perfumery and beauty, launches ScalpSure, its new technology for creating fragrances that counteract unpleasant scalp odors and deliver a fragrance experience validated by both experts and consumers.

With 61 % of people worldwide affected by perspiration or bad scalp odor¹, ScalpSure tackles this multifactorial problem, which can be exacerbated by air pollution, stress and head coverings. A new addition to Givaudan's Zap portfolio (its platform of multi-category solutions to address malodours), ScalpSure has been extensively researched to meet this prevalent demand.

Consumers were involved in the development of ScalpSure from the earliest stages of research. Based on an analysis of the olfactory challenge headspace collected directly from consumers' hair, Givaudan's malodour research teams at the Centre of Excellence for Health and Wellbeing in Ashford (UK), alongside olfaction experts, were able to develop the most realistic scalp malodour model.

Using this olfactory reconstruction as a precise framework for developing a solution, Givaudan's perfumers scrutinized the behavior of perfumery ingredients and fragrance formulas to determine the best solutions for effectively countering the build-up of unpleasant odors on the scalp.

"ScalpSure's highly consumer-centric approach ensures a better understanding of the challenges associated with unpleasant odors on the scalp, and greater awareness of how best to design solutions. ScalpSure's superior efficacy in combating unpleasant odors has been demonstrated by a holistic validation methodology consisting of olfactory experts, sensory panelists and consumers themselves, through home use tests conducted on an interregional scale."says Jessica Jiang, Senior Fragrance Designer for Personal Care Products.

"The challenge in designing an effective fragrance for hair care is to create a beautiful scent that delights consumers while addressing their concerns. The fragrance must offer an impactful and pleasant olfactory experience while effectively suppressing unpleasant scalp odors. The ScalpSure design tool helps perfumers tailor fragrances that successfully banish unwanted scalp odors. By combining hedonic and performance criteria, ScalpSure fragrance guidelines offer perfumers an innovative tool to ensure consumer satisfaction."says Sophie Rhodes, Senior Personal Care Perfumer.

1. Project Reveal, 2016, percentage of men and women concerned about bad hair odor.

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