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Innovating for sustainable beauty

Minimal pot_Groupe Pochet

At this year's Luxe Pack Monaco, which took place between October 2 and 4, 2023, the Pochet Group presented three major themes linked to new market trends: premiumization, lightening, rechargeability and new uses. 

Optimized solutions in terms of aesthetics and use

In its Creative Lab, the Pochet group presented innovative proposals for the distribution of anhydrous formulas and the application of creams.

On the stand, brands were able to discover new, innovative and customizable refillable skincare jar designs: Malti, Marvelous. These innovations joined Odyssée (the nomadic refillable jar) and Modulo Skin, both in Collections.

The Malti pot offers a multitude of materials - wood, ceramic, aluminum, virtuous plastic, etc. - for its case or refill. - for its case or refill, both of which can be combined with a highly intuitive gesture, for all types of care, especially inclusive or masculine. Marvelous, the prestige skincare jar with intuitive gestures.

Marvelous is a refillable skincare jar with an intuitive gesture. The jar and refill are made of glass. Its hidden refillability means it retains an elegant aesthetic and is in keeping with the codes of exceptional skincare.

Pushing back the limits of materials and decors with open innovation partners

Thanks to its knowledge of the beauty and luxury goods market, the Pochet Group, in partnership with MagREEsource and its customers, intends to integrate responsible magnets into perfume caps.

MagREEsource is developing an innovative technology for recycling magnets sourced in France from the dismantling of wind turbines and electric motors.

"This innovation will reduce the magnet's carbon footprint by a factor of two compared with a magnet manufactured in Asia.says Nicolas Piffault, Pochet Group CSR Director.

Adding value to the growing make-up segment with noble materials

The Pochet group preserves the codes of luxury and the aesthetics of make-up products by working with noble materials and innovative gestures.

Diamond, its bottle with glass base and cap, benefits from entirely translucent packaging, which adds sparkle to make-up and skincare formulas and perfume juices. It responds to the trend for ultra-luxury, precious packaging, and can be recycled through recycling channels.

Minimal jars can be designed in all sizes, from 7-ml blushes and balms to 200-ml body creams. They are at least 20 % lighter than the average weight of products on the market.

The Minimal range, initially comprising a lightweight glass jar and an aluminum cap - the two most recycled materials - has also been extended with an ultra-light bottle (15 g, i.e. 50% less weight than standard bottles on the market) with very thin glass walls, and a refillable glass case, ideal for loose powders and poured formulas as well as skincare creams.

Audace, with its all-metal or all-plastic cases featuring innovative gestures, offers prestige powders an innovative case, both aesthetically and in terms of use, with its easy-opening and refill system.

For even, firm skin

Immortelle-Oil-Pro

Lipoid Kosmetik, a leading manufacturer of botanical extracts, actives and natural phospholipid products for the cosmetics and personal care industry, recently introduced Immortelle Oil Pro, a Cosmos-certified extract for body care applications aimed at achieving even, firm skin.

Skin imperfections, such as stretch marks, can have a significant impact on a person's image and adversely affect their quality of life. Stretch marks are the result of broken collagen and elastin fibers in the skin's connective tissue. 

Cosmetic strategies to improve stretch marks and skin firmness involve strengthening the skin matrix, reducing redness and inflammation, and improving microcirculation through mechanical stimulation.

Lipoid Kosmetik uses the properties of Immortelle d'Italie (Helichrysum italicum) to create Immortelle Oil Pro, an extract with proven efficacy for body care. Its lipophilic active ingredients strengthen the skin matrix and reduce inflammation, leading to a substantial improvement in the appearance of stretch marks and skin firmness. As an oil-based extract, Immortelle Oil Pro can be incorporated into products that can be massaged into the skin, resulting in the following benefits for the user:

  • Reduced appearance of stretch marks
  • Increased skin firmness
  • Improved skin evenness and smoothness
  • Body contouring

Aptar Beauty and Pinard Beauty Pack: fully recyclable, omnichannel airless packaging in large format

site-industries-cosmetiques Three bottles of future adios.

Aptar Beauty and Pinard Beauty Pack have unveiled Future Airless PET, a fully recyclable, omnichannel airless packaging available in large format. Full recyclability is achieved by combining Aptar's PE Future pump with Pinard's patented PET bottle-in-bottle.

Aptar Beauty and Pinard Beauty Pack have combined their respective expertise in airless dispensing systems and plastic bottles to develop modern packaging for personal care, body care, hair care and sun care products.

Madalina Dragan, Personal Care EMEA Marketing Director at Aptar Beauty, explains: "This partnership was born of shared values - the desire to innovate, the demand for high performance and the quest for sustainability. Both our companies have a proven track record of excellence and have been awarded the EcoVadis Platinum Medal, which has fostered a strong synergy in our collaboration. Future Airless PET reflects our strengths and values.

Aptar's award-winning Future pump is made of single-material PE, fully recyclable* and compatible with omnichannel distribution. The push-button is optimized for e-commerce thanks to its lockable/unlockable ring and 360º rotation system, minimizing the risk of breakage during transport.

"When our first PET Airless prototype came out, we quickly saw that this major innovation would only be viable with a reliable, eco-designed pump, in order to offer a complete, robust and accomplished Airless solution. With Aptar and the launch of their Future pump, we found the ideal partner to meet market expectations by providing an end-to-end eco-designed solution. The mutual merger therefore became an obvious choice for both our companies.said Paulo Coelho, Plant Manager at Pinard Beauty Pack.

Pinard's patented PET double-wall airless bottle technology is deployed to create a flexible bottle inside a rigid outer container. This new bottle offers all the advantages of airless packaging: formula protection, good compatibility with cosmetic formulas, high restitution rate and use from any angle. The complete pack is also compatible with e-commerce**, having passed Amazon's rigorous ISTA-6 protocol. The PET (polyethylene terephthalate) bottle and PE pump are also available in PCR (recycled resin) for greater durability. The bottle can be made entirely from PET, while the metal-free pump can hold up to 52 % of PCR - all in food-grade material.

Future Airless PET has been certified by RecyClass and meets the highest standards of recyclability. Future Airless PET offers a wide range of customization options to reflect brand identity. Its high-end aesthetic thanks to transparent PET makes it an ideal solution for brands looking for a differentiating packaging on the shelf.

The product will be available in a 400 ml bottle with a 28 mm Snap on pump, with the option of adding a non-detachable tamper-evident seal. Market launch is scheduled for mid-2024.

* Fully recyclable when combined with a PE or PET bottle.
** Conforms to ISTA-6 Overbox test. Test results may vary according to shape and size of container and sample formula.

Clariant acquires Lucas Meyer Cosmetics from IFF

site-industries-cosmetiques A draft building with the word garant on it.

Clariant, a specialty chemicals company focused on sustainability, announced that it has agreed to acquire Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, a leading supplier of high-value ingredients to the cosmetics and personal care industry, from International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) for a total cash consideration of $810 million. The proposed transaction is subject to customary regulatory approvals and closing conditions, and is expected to close in the first quarter of 2024.

"The proposed acquisition of Lucas Meyer Cosmetics marks another major step in Clariant's focused growth strategy. It will strengthen our position as a true specialty chemicals company, our exposure to consumer markets and our presence in North America, while supporting our goal of accelerating customer-focused innovation and sustainability. In addition, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics brings a highly experienced management team with an excellent track record.said Conrad Keijzer, CEO of Clariant. By combining our personal care ingredients portfolio with Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, Clariant will become a leader in high-value cosmetic ingredients, one of the most attractive, profitable and fastest-growing specialty chemicals markets. With this step, we will build on our successful track record of pursuing and integrating targeted acquisitions to enable value creation and profitable growth."


"Lucas Meyer Cosmetics represents an important and exciting growth opportunity for Care Chemicals. It fits in perfectly with our business, given the complementary nature of our customers and products. The combination of our respective strengths, including the R&D and innovation capabilities of Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, supported by a strong brand, will enable us to achieve a strong increase in annual sales, to $180 million in 2028, from around $100 million today. We look forward to welcoming our new colleagues after closing and leveraging our respective capabilities, expertise and passion."said Christian Vang, President of Clariant's Care Chemicals Business Unit and of the Americas region.

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, founded in 1999 and headquartered in Quebec, Canada, is a leading player in the active and functional cosmetic ingredients market. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics' competitive edge stems from its marketing and innovation capabilities, including global R&D and regional application centers, which translate into a strong financial performance with approximately $100 million in revenues and very attractive profitability. The company is also highly cash generative due to its asset-light model and outsourced production. In addition, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics has a customer-centric business model, which translates into strong brand recognition with customers worldwide.

Solid strategic and financial justification

The acquisition is based on a compelling strategic rationale given the complementary nature of Clariant and Lucas Meyer Cosmetics in terms of customer portfolio, product portfolio, regional strongholds and R&D and marketing capabilities, making the combination of Clariant and Lucas Meyer Cosmetics a uniquely positioned solutions provider for high value-added products. personal care brands. The proposed transaction enables Clariant to further transform its portfolio towards high-growth, high-margin, cash-generative specialty chemicals businesses and towards consumer end-markets supported by accelerating demand for natural and sustainable products. It will increase Clariant's exposure to the active and functional cosmetic ingredients market and strengthen its presence in North America in the Care Chemicals business unit.

Given the strong strategic fit and complementary nature of the businesses, Clariant's ambition is to increase Lucas Meyer Cosmetics' annual sales from $100 million to $180 million by 2028.

Jean-Paul Gaultier's La Belle Fleur Terrible in Pure Trade

PURE TRADE - JEAN PAUL GAUTHIER - La Belle Fleur Terrible

Specializing in the design and development of high-end promotional products and secondary packaging for leading luxury and cosmetics brands, Pure Trade reveals a new facet of its expertise by adorning the blue bottle of Jean-Paul Gaultier's Belle Fleur Terrible with embroidery designed in two layers and four parts. 

The technical challenge was to sew the different parts together, with constant orientation for homogeneous positioning.

Pure Trade had already produced secondary packaging for the Jean-Paul Gaultier brand, including metal boxes for certain collector's editions.

This latest achievement underscores Pure Trade's ability to facilitate the brand development process by providing complementary, integrated solutions from a full-service perspective.

Oral hygiene goes natural

Oral Care_Dentifrice solide

It has gone from being a trend to a requirement: naturalness is at the heart of consumer expectations, particularly in the hygiene and beauty sector, in which the oral hygiene market plays an essential role. To meet this demand for naturalness in product composition, and to guarantee a routine that is not harmful to health, the choice of ingredients is a fundamental step.

To support market players in the selection and/or development of natural, high-performance and essential ingredients, Herbarom Laboratoire, a Herbarom brand, has formulated its new inspiration range: Oral Care. It consists of two demonstration products - a chewable solid toothpaste and a mouthwash - formulated from a rigorous choice of ingredients: essential oils of spearmint and peppermint, distilled peppermint water and hydroglycerine extract of lemon peel.

Make way for naturalness in your daily hygiene routine...

Toothpaste is the most widely used oral care product, with a market share of 25 %, followed by mouthwash. What do they have in common? They are both very often composed of controversial raw materials, such as chlorhexidine, triclosan or cety|pyridinium chloride.

As alternatives to these ingredients, which are harmful to health and the environment, natural ingredients such as essential oils and plant extracts have become key to the formulation of oral care products.

...through rigorous selection of effective botanical ingredients

Because they offer real benefits for oral health, plants and raw materials of plant origin are becoming increasingly popular for formulating products. These plant extracts are quite simply natural, whether conventional or organic, and can be used as flavourings as well as active ingredients. Antiseptic, antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory or pain-relieving, the properties of plant extracts are the naturally effective key to product composition.

For Herbarom, the rigorous selection of ingredients takes place on several levels:

sourcing, mastery of traceability, and gentle extraction techniques to extract the best from plants while respecting the raw material.

herbarom's oral care range: sensoriality, effectiveness and respect for the environment

Based in the heart of France's Biovallée region for almost 30 years, the Herbarom group is renowned for its pioneering approach to plant extraction and its expertise in the use of plants in cosmetic formulation.

Naturalness is part of the Group's DNA, and has inspired the development of the

Oral Care range: a chewable solid toothpaste and a mouthwash to perfect brushing, developed from a rigorous choice of ingredients and cutting-edge research into flavoring.

Two varieties of mint, peppermint and spearmint, recognized for their anti-micriobic properties, are at the heart of the formula for both the chewable solid toothpaste and the mouthwash, the latter being complemented by lemon, recognized for its whitening and antibacterial properties. These ingredients are highly prized for their many benefits in the formulation of oral care products.

Naturally antimicrobial, mint helps keep the mouth clean and healthy. It also has anti-inflammatory properties. When incorporated into oral care formulations, it helps limit the onset of various pathologies and stimulates saliva secretion, essential for mouth cleanliness.

Lemon is often used as a tooth whitening agent. It also contains citric acid, which helps fight tartar, responsible for yellowing teeth and sometimes the cause of oral discomfort such as cavities, gum disease and bad breath. This mouthwash is effective for strengthening tooth enamel, preventing cavities and preventing plaque. It freshens breath and purifies the oral cavity. 

Demonstration products, the chewable solid toothpaste and mouthwash formulated by Herbarom R&D experts were showcased at Cosmetic-360 Paris, October 18-19, 2023.

Creed perfumes orchestrate their international data with Magic Software's integration platform

Visual Creed

"The Magic xpi Integration Platform has enabled us to synchronize data from Creed's various information systems on an international scale. Intuitive and powerful, the tool accelerated the implementation of the new ERP, helping to stabilize our fast-growing environment".says Emmanuel Schoenberger, ERP project consultant at Creed.

Founded in England in 1760, and with a factory in France since 1864, Creed is a high-end company dedicated to creating original fragrances for men and women, using exceptional ingredients. Rose from Bulgaria, jasmine from Italy, tuberose from India, vetiver from Haiti... These raw, natural ingredients undergo a demanding manufacturing process, based in particular on hand maceration in the Fontainebleau factory. Creed perfume boutiques are present in Europe, the United States and Dubai.

In 2022, the company faces an international challenge: to centralize data from its various information systems (IS) in the UK, France, the USA and the Middle East. "Everything was scattered and uncoordinated: we had two logistics tools, a production tool, an e-commerce tool, another dedicated to expense reports, an interface for the bank... There was complexity everywhere, explains Emmanuel Schoenberger. This huge disparity between systems was becoming untenable, given that Creed had been growing rapidly for several years and needed to streamline its processes. It had therefore become urgent to create dynamics and agility between these different information systems.

Collecting and managing data

The solution then lies in deploying a platform for orchestrating all data flows (BPM/EAI/ETL), i.e. software for collecting and managing data from multiple sources.

Objective: convert all data into a format suitable for a data warehouse. "It was at this point that Creed decided to enlist the services of Magic Software, following a recommendation by integrator Prodware. It was Creed's IT teams who subsequently endorsed this choice, which is now proving to be a very wise one".says Emmanuel Schoenberger.

Magic Software, which has been providing software platforms for digital transformation (development, integration, industry 4.0, etc.) since 1983, is offering a solution that will be deployed at Creed from June 2022. The Magic xpi platform will be deployed in conjunction with the implementation of a new ERP system (Enterprise Resource Planning), a management tool for all Creed perfumes activities (logistics, purchasing, accounting, project management, supply chain operations, etc.).

"Magic xpi helped to speed up the implementation of our new ERP, a project that was being piloted by integrator partner Prodware. This solution facilitated harmonized data management, because we had to deploy the ERP in 6-8 months, with significant implementation constraints in terms of time. The context was not easy, and we were able to count on Magic Software's teams at all times to help us deploy this new environment. It's now a done deal!says Emmanuel Schoenberger.

The results have lived up to Creed's high expectations and challenges, in a context of strong growth in a very dynamic international sector.

The Magic xpi integration platform offered several advantages:

  • Greater peace of mind for teams: the solution is easy to use on a daily basis, thanks to its intuitive design;
  •  Agile deployment: Magic xpi deploys quickly, and its learning curve is highly scalable and productive;
  •  A natural ability to integrate all types of data flows via our connectors (APIs), enabling us to open up to all the Group's business applications.
  • Magic xpi's ability to seamlessly integrate technological developments ensures a future-proof IT infrastructure;
  • Finally, the implementation of an "end-to-end" functional, production, order, stock, e-commerce... harmonized around the Microsoft Dynamics 365 ERP.

In the end, Magic xpi enabled Creed to synchronize all data from its business application systems, on an international scale. " The major contribution was the mastery with which we were able to deploy a new, easy-to-use interface, which enabled us to increase our skills considerably.analyses Emmanuel Schoenberger. In particular, the tool has been used to transform all e-commerce data, facilitating links between systems as well as between Creed's different teams.

We have set up API's that orchestrate the information, and we use them on a daily basis to supply the various business lines with optimized information."

The aim is to improve the overall ROI on the company's digital transformation.

For Creed, there are still a number of steps to be taken in order to further consolidate the fluidity of the stages by profession. " In the future, our ambition is to improve our use of the Magic xpi platform.concludes Emmanuel Schoenberger.

We want to gain autonomy, acquire additional skills to better understand the issues and be in action mode. In particular, we want to better define what monitoring is... For this, we can count on the service center, one of Magic Software France's complementary solutions, which really helps us to better manage this transformation."

Photo taken from the case study published on the Magic Software website.

Prad among the 3 % most responsible companies according to EcoVadis

PRAD_visual

Reductions of 30 % in CO2 and energy emissions, 40 % in waste and 50 % in water consumption over the last four years have, in particular, enabled Prad to rank among the top 3 % companies worldwide assessed by EcoVadis.

EcoVadis, "the world's largest CSR policy assessment organization", also recognized Prad's actions in implementing its diversity, equity and inclusion policies. In 2022, Prad has, among other things, focused on raising awareness and preventing harassment, as well as violence against women.

On the strength of this recognition, Prad is stepping up its commitment to CSR and has set itself the target of a dry factory by 2028. From now on, Prad offers its high-end perfume and cosmetics customers the opportunity to work more closely on eco-design, right from the laboratory phase, by integrating virtuous production processes. Prad also advises on production waste management and promotes systematic recyclability.

High-end decoration on glass and aluminum

Prad is an independent French company specializing in the decoration of recyclable glass and aluminum containers. Its customers include Cartier, Chanel, Coach, Diptyque, Jimmy Choo and many other prestigious brands.

Prad masters the following technologies: liquid metallization, lacquering, laser finishing, screen printing, pad printing and hot stamping. Used individually or in combination, they enable a wide range of renderings, nuances, color and/or material effects, and extreme line precision.

The company relies on its new environmentally-friendly equipment, practices and industrial processes, enhanced by the professionalism and dedication of its customer-oriented teams. The company is a member of the Industrie du futur 2.0 program of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region, and participates in the UN Global Compact program.

Prad was founded 50 years ago and has been run by Bruno Pierrain, its CEO and owner since 2016. It is located near Valence and employs 65 people, committed to and driven by the values of respect, solidarity and eco-responsibility. 

dsm-firmenich increases production capacity for its Habanolide fragrance ingredient with a new facility in France

site-industries-cosmetiques An automotive manufacturing plant with a large number of tanks.

dsm-firmenich announces the forthcoming commissioning of a brand new Habanolide unit at its production site in south-west France. This new state-of-the-art facility will significantly increase production capacity for this iconic fragrance ingredient, and help meet the fast-growing demand for sustainable products. The new production site will be operational in January 2024.

"This is our first Habanolide production unit in Europe, says Emmanuel Butstraen, President of Perfumery & Beauty at dsm-firmenich. Et will strengthen our strategic position and enable us to offer additional capacity for perfumery in the region. In addition to helping us seize growth opportunities, it will help reduce the carbon footprint of our logistics operations. We will be able to provide a superior service close to our customers in Europe, and help them achieve their own sustainability goals by reducing their Scope 3 emissions."

Spread over four levels, the new facility will feature state-of-the-art technologies guaranteeing the highest safety standards, operational stability, quality, energy efficiency and reduced water consumption. The entire project is being carried out by a dozen local companies, involving some forty subcontractors every day for the past year.

"We are very proud of this new production unit, designed to increase the supply of this powerful, biodegradable musk, which is one of our best-selling ingredients, adds Amaury Roquette, Ingredients Director for Perfumery & Beauty at dsm-firmenich. This facility will enable us to produce Habanolide in Europe, in addition to our existing production line in New Jersey, USA. With this additional project, we are strengthening our global leadership in musks."

Habanolide is an elegant macrocyclic musk with warm, slightly woody notes. It is a key ingredient in the company's palette and is extremely popular in combination with dsm-firmenich's renewable musks such as Helvetolide and Romandolide, as well as the recently introduced captive ingredients Sorbettolide and Casmiwood. This increase in capacity will also benefit Habanolide derivatives, Exaltolide Total and Exaltolide.

dsm-firmenich has extensive experience in the production of musk ingredients. Years dedicated to research and development have made the group a pioneer in the market, earning it worldwide recognition as the "House of Musk".

This expansion project has benefited from a €1 million grant, as part of the national stimulus plan implemented by the French government and the Nouvelle Aquitaine region, to accelerate industrial investment in France.

Beautyworld Middle East 2023 welcomes a record number of Brazilian companies

site-industries-cosmetiques A group of people walking in front of a pink building, captured by Brouillon auto.

A total of 62 Brazilian companies from Beautycare Brazil (a project to internationalize the Brazilian cosmetics, toiletries and fragrances industry) are exhibiting at the 27th edition of Beautyworld Middle East 2023 (held from October 30 to November 1, in Dubai, United Arab Emirates). This is a record number of exhibiting companies since the first agreements were signed 20 years ago between Abihpec (Brazilian Association of the Cosmetics, Toiletries and Perfumes Industry) and ApexBrasil (Brazilian Trade and Investment Promotion Agency), who coordinate the sector project.

Most companies are concentrated in the Brazilian zone, but brands are also spread across other pavilions.

"At the previous edition of the show, during the three-day event, 2,383 business meetings took place, totaling $5.7 million in international sales, with the hope of reaching a further $50 million over the following 12 months. Our expectations for this edition are very positive and proportional to the record number of participating companies, mainly in terms of promoting the image of Brazil and its companies at the event, and business expansion. It will undoubtedly be an unforgettable moment of commercial promotion for the Brazilian CT&F sector (cosmetics, toiletries and fragrances) for interested audiences in the United Arab Emirates and other countries in the region".said Gueisa Silvério, International Business Manager at Abihpec.


A Green Zone in the Brazilian pavilion

Beautycare Brazil has created a new zone within the Brazilian pavilion: the Green Zone.

This year, two companies are taking part: i9 Soluções, a Brazilian leader in the production of sustainable hairbands, and Souvie, an organic cosmetics company. 

The hairbands offered by i9 Soluções are innovative, environmentally-friendly products, 100 % recyclable, reusable and metal-free, made from sustainable resources. They are a genuine tool developed exclusively for professional hairdressers, featuring two exclusive technologies that optimize performance and safety during the bleaching process.

In particular, Souvie has developed a certified organic sun cream, a foundation enriched with a selection of natural active ingredients - the first certified organic foundation in Brazil, and a primer enriched with an innovative active ingredient derived from organic Indian ginseng root, designed to protect the skin from damage caused by exposure to blue light.

Photo: © Delia Dobrescu

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