Six finalists were chosen from among the 80 projects from 18 countries that applied for the 7ᵉ edition of "The Cosmetic Victories" international research and innovation competition. Retained by a selection committee of international scientific experts, the applications are carriers of an innovation or research work applicable to perfumery-cosmetics.
The two prizes (Academic Prize and Industrial Prize) will be awarded by a jury of reference in charge of distinguishing the winners among these six finalists. Each of the winners will receive a prize of 10,000 euros and will be supported by Cosmetic Valley.
Academic Category
- Center de Recherches sur les macromolécules végétales - CNRS Grenoble (France) : Carbogel : A Simple and Eco-Friendly Carbohydrate-Based Gelling Agent for Oily Phase
The project focuses on the supramolecular gelation of organic liquids, such as oils, solvents or fatty esters, by monosaccharide derivatives that self-assemble into a 3D network. The "sweet" gelators are synthesized by an eco-friendly and efficient method (reaction in water). Gelling is performed by sonication, or by heating/cooling, or by dilution. The gel can be used as a stimuli-sensitive matrix for the controlled delivery of cosmetic agents. Carbogel contributes to "green" and sustainable cosmetics by limiting our environmental and social impact.
- CNRS - Sorbonne University (France) : New biosurfactants for functional formulations with biopolymers
The project aims to develop innovative stimuli-responsive formulations based on amphiphilic molecules of microbial origin (AM), biotensioactives, and biopolymers (BP). AMs are stimuli-responsive molecules produced by fermentation. They are 100% biosourced, biodegradable and biocompatible. Their multiple phases (micelles, fibers, vesicles...) form in diluted water at room temperature and can modify BP properties (elasticity, encapsulation-release, hydrogenation) by a simple change of pH, temperature and ionic strength.
- Wageningen University and Research (Netherlands): Organic microalgal farming and milking for cosmetic ingredients
Microalgae use carbon dioxide and nutrients to produce molecules of interest considered as sustainable resources. In this context, a unique cell-milking system will be developed to produce emulsifiers, gels, oils, fragrances and antioxidants from microalgae. The system will use low intensity electric fields coupled with eutectic solvents of natural origin.
Industrial category
- Bioinspir (France) : New generation of sustainable fragrances with ecocatalysis
Bioinspir is developing a new sustainable chemistry chain based on the use of ecocatalysts, catalysts of plant origin. Ecocatalysts allow the eco-responsible and bioinspired synthesis of a wide range of cosmetic and perfumery ingredients. Fragrances such as methyl dihydrojasmonate (Hedione) and linalool oxide have been synthesized in state-of-the-art green chemistry processes combining efficiency, speed, naturalness and eco-responsibility.
- The SkinDNA Company Pty Ltd (Australia): SkinRNA Micro-cell Test
A world first, this epigenetic diagnostic test is repeatable in patch and laboratory settings that quantifies the effectiveness of skin care through real-time gene expression activity. The device collects more than 15,000 genes, while its algorithms provide gene expression activity scores for skin functions, including collagen and elastin production and skin inflammation. After product intervention, a second test is performed to measure the new gene activity against the initial benchmarks. Consumers can then repeat the tests at regular intervals to track and monitor the genetic improvement of the skin without waiting for visible signs.
- PolymerExpert (France) : EstoGel Green - Nature Inspired Polymer
EstoGel Green is a rheology modifier for fatty phase with high suspensory capacity. Based on a supramolecular approach, it can produce transparent and shear sensitive oily gels with a soft and natural feel. 100 % bio-based, Cosmos-approved and globally approved, EstoGel Green is a unique thickener, according to the company. According to PolymerExpert, it combines performance, naturalness and sensoriality. This eco-designed and easy-to-use ingredient is a key ally in the development of a new generation of responsible cosmetic products.
The awards ceremony will be broadcast live on Cosmetic Valley's Youtube channel on Tuesday, March 22, 2022, at 4:15 pm.
