Givaudan Active Beauty reuses by-products from the food industry and recovers the seeds of Vaccinium myrtillus to create a natural ingredient capable of repairing skin dryness, irritation and desquamation linked to a weakened lipid barrier.
Omegablue is a cosmetic ingredient created from overcycled wild bilberries, a plant that grows in Central and Northern Europe. It is used for advanced skin repair.
Traditionally used by the food industry for their juice and sugar, bilberries are also an important source of anthocyanidins extracted from the pulp and skin of the fruit for the dietary supplements and pharmaceutical industries.
What's more, according to Givaudan Active Beauty, the berries' tiny seeds contain up to 20 % of linoleic acid (omega-6) and α-linolenic acid (omega-3) in an optimal ratio; both compounds being known for their ability to improve hydration and skin barrier functionality.
"Manufactured using a supercritical CO2 process in an overcycling of the seeds of this unique Vaccinum bilberry berry, Omegablue has been developed as a topical soothing agent for sensitive and damaged skin. It effectively soothes cutaneous discomfort on a transient or curative basis, and contains sebum-like essential fatty acids forming a protective barrier from external agents."says Giada Maramaldi, Personal Care Category Manager at Givaudan Active Beauty.
According to the company, Omegablue's efficacy in surfactant-induced depletion has been demonstrated in clinical tests. "Three days after the injury, the treated area regained its skin barrier function. Omegablue is also highly effective on skin with chronic inflammation (psoriasis), as it significantly reduces the severity of erythema by up to 27%, and scale formation by 28 % in four weeks. The results are even better for skin suffering from eczema, with erythema severity reduced by 37.5 % and itch rate by 42.8 %. In addition, PASI (Psoriasis Area Severity Score) and EASI (Eczema Area Severity Score) were significantly improved, by 27 % and 35 % respectively".says Givaudan Active Beauty.
To illustrate Omegablue's potential in skin and body care applications, Givaudan Active Beauty has formulated a shower oil called S.O. Smooth, with a light, silky texture. Enriched with chia oil, a natural ingredient that gently nourishes the skin, this shower oil cleanses and protects the skin against external aggressions and "restores and maintains the skin barrier to bring skin back into its comfort zone."
Omegablue is part of Givaudan Active Beauty's upcycling collection launched in October 2020. This collection includes eight other functional ingredients.
According to Givaudan Active Beauty, waste reduction is now the new standard for sustainability, and cosmetics containing recycled or upcycled ingredients are winning over some 69 % of consumers, particularly in Brazil (80 %) and China (74 %).1. "Consumers are ready to go beyond and make upcycling beauty products a major trend for years to come, without giving up key elements of skin protection."says the company.
1 - CMI Global Study, May 2020.