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Friday, July 1, 2022
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Speed of hemp, from perfume to well-being


Moisturizing, nourishing, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging and healing: the properties of hemp - as well as its vegetal fragrance, which would act on stress, anxiety or depression - seduce the cosmetic industry.

According to Timothy Evans-Lora, Applied Research Manager in the United States, "Consumers associate hemp with health holistically and associate it with relaxation, being modern and trendy, and emotional well-being." This is what a symrise study 1 reveals: for 70% of respondents, in addition to medical and recreational properties, hemp is perceived as a natural plant (70%), with health benefits (38%), modern (37%) and has a holistic dimension (30%).

The study also found that 77% of respondents would be perfectly acceptable for a cosmetic product to be illustrated with a cannabis smell. This scent should then be perceived as natural, highlighting herbaceous, aromatic, medicinal facets and go so far as to be very close to the smell of Marijuana.

This in-depth knowledge of consumer expectations and their perception of this atypical ingredient, combined with a strong research and development expertise in line with legal and regulatory restrictions around the world, now allows Symrise to strengthen its expertise with a bespoke fragrance offering: Hemp Speed.

Combining its expertise in the development of perfumes, cosmetic ingredients and aromatic molecules, Symrise brings its customers a 360-degree solution with three Hemp Speeds to meet the growing cannabis trend in the industry.

To recreate a hemp smell as close as the pure ingredient, Symrise scientists and perfumers analyzed several hemp species from around the world to determine which one was most interesting from an olfactory point of view. They selected sour Space Candy from Colorado in the United States. Thanks to Vitessence technology, Symrise has recreated a synthetic essence, close to the dried plant, with a green, balsamic, earthy, herbaceous and woody olfactory profile. This Hemp Speed does not contain tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) or cannabidiol (CBD).

"Most customers who buy hemp products want natural products. Not to mention those who are attentive and decipher labels," explainsFabien Calvet, Symrise Beauty Care's sustainable development ambassador. That's why Symrise also offers this Hemp Vitessence in a 100% natural version (ISO 9235) and a Cosmos Natural certified version.

Hemp Vitessences contain a Symrise synthetic molecule, with facets of grapefruit, rhubarb and hyacinth. This one can boost the citrus and watery notes in the head. It is also known for its relaxing properties.

"The Hemp Vitessence gives fragrances a breath of natural lightness thanks to its sparkling freshness. Captivating and mystical, it reinforces the green and aromatic citrus elements while complicating the spirit of woody notes,"notes Jerry Padoly, perfumer.

Respectful of nature, Vitessence technology aims to collect the olfactory properties of any natural ingredient without harming it. The scented air around the plant, also called "head space," is captured by a non-invasive process. The odorous molecules are identified through a gas chromatography and the result is then shared with the perfumer for a reconstruction as close to nature as possible, which is not always the case with other extraction methods. This technology is all the more interesting because it allows us to best manage sourcing, pricing and regulatory issues.

These Hemp Vitessence, developed by Symrise's Consumer Fragrance division, are used in cosmetics, home products and pet applications such as cat litter. They allow consumers to create a calming environment, prone to emotional well-being. They join the offers of hemp seed oil (cosmetic Ingredients division) and Canapure (Aroma Molecules division).

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