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Vitessence of hemp, from perfume to well-being

Moisturizing, nourishing, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging and healing: hemp's properties - like its herbal fragrance, which is said to act on stress, anxiety and depression - are seducing the cosmetics industry.

According to Timothy Evans-Lora, Manager Applied Research in the United States, "consumers associate hemp with health in a holistic way, associating it with relaxation, being modern and trendy, and emotional well-being". Indeed, this is what a 1 Symrise study reveals: for 70 % of those surveyed, beyond its medical and recreational properties, hemp is perceived as a natural plant (70 %), with health benefits (38 %), modern (37 %) and possessing a holistic dimension (30 %).

The study also established that for 77 % of those surveyed, it would be perfectly acceptable for a cosmetic product to be illustrated with a cannabis scent. This scent would have to be perceived as natural, highlighting herbaceous, aromatic and medicinal facets, and even be very close to the smell of marijuana.

This in-depth knowledge of consumer expectations and perceptions of this atypical ingredient, combined with strong R&D expertise in compliance with legal and regulatory restrictions worldwide, now enables Symrise to reinforce its expertise with a tailor-made fragrance offering: Vitessence de chanvre.

Combining its expertise in the development of fragrances, cosmetic ingredients and aromatic molecules, Symrise provides its customers with a 360° solution with three hemp Vitessences to meet the growing cannabis trend in the industry.

In order to recreate a hemp scent as close as possible to that of the pure ingredient, Symrise scientists and perfumers analyzed several hemp species from around the world to determine which was the most interesting from an olfactory point of view. They selected Sour Space Candy from Colorado, USA. Using Vitessence technology, Symrise recreated a synthetic essence, close to the dried plant, with a green, balsamic, earthy, herbaceous and woody olfactory profile. This hemp Vitessence contains no tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) or cannabidiol (CBD).

"Most customers who buy hemp products want natural products. And let's not forget those who pay attention and decipher labels".explains Fabien Calvet, Symrise Beauty Care sustainable development ambassador. That's why Symrise also offers this hemp Vitessence in a 100 % natural (ISO 9235) and Cosmos Natural certified version.

Hemp Vitessences contain a synthetic Symrise molecule, with grapefruit, rhubarb and hyacinth facets. It boosts citrus and aqueous notes in the top notes. It is also recognized for its relaxing properties.

"Hemp Vitessence offers fragrances a breath of natural lightness thanks to its sparkling freshness. Captivating and mystical, it reinforces the green citrus and aromatic elements while complexifying the spirit of the woody notes".notes perfumer Jerry Padoly.

Respectful of nature, Vitessence technology aims to capture the olfactory properties of any natural ingredient without harming it. The fragrant air around the plant, also known as "head space", is captured by a non-invasive process. The fragrant molecules are identified by gas chromatography, and the results shared with the perfumer for a reconstitution as close to nature as possible, which is not always the case with other extraction methods. This technology is all the more interesting for its ability to manage sourcing, pricing and regulatory issues.

These hemp Vitessences, developed by Symrise's Consumer Fragrance Division, are used in cosmetics, home products and pet applications such as cat litter. They enable consumers to create a soothing environment conducive to emotional well-being. They join the offerings of hemp seed oil (Cosmetic Ingredients division) and Canapure (Aroma Molecules division).

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