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The anti-senescence ally to defy the marks of time

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The editorial staff
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Senevisium is a natural anti-aging active ingredient derived from Ginkgo biloba, capable of reactivating the natural elimination of senescent fibroblasts by the immune system. A true concentrate of longevity, it acts transversally on the dermis and the epidermis for an anti-wrinkle action and a rapid radiance booster effect.

Senescence, a central factor in aging, is controlled by the immune system, which efficiently identifies and eradicates senescent cells that are harmful to the skin environment. Nevertheless, some senescent fibroblasts deploy immuno-evasion strategies over time to avoid being eliminated.

Through original modeling studies in vitro and in vivoSilab has shown that the immunoevasion mechanism is accentuated at the skin level after 60 years of age, leading to profound changes (wrinkles, dullness, loss of elasticity and age spots).

Through its targeted action, Senevisium is able to restore the natural elimination of immunoevasive senescent fibroblasts by the immune system by thwarting their two immunoevasion pathways.

By allowing deleterious immunoevasive senescent fibroblasts to be recognized and eliminated again, Senevisium protects the skin from their deleterious effects on matrix synthesis and epidermal renewal.

Tested at 2% on Caucasian volunteers, Senevisium allows the skin to recover its density and elasticity. The stage of wrinkles is reduced and the radiance of the complexion is enhanced. The volunteers themselves confirm these results since, after 28 days of treatment, 100% of them find their skin firmer, and their complexion clearer and more even.

Silab was inspired by the extraordinary ability of the Ginkgo biloba to defy the passage of time and the power of the immune system of this supercentennial tree with a unique anti-aging biological heritage.

Its leaves have been used to restore the capacity of the immune system of mature skin to eliminate senescent cells.

Two French farms (Champagne, Ardèche) of Ginkgo bilobacertified organic and biodiversity-friendly, have been selected for the supply of green leaves.

Senevisium is a patented active ingredient recommended in all skin care products dedicated to mature skin at a dose of 0.5 to 2.0%. Available in aqueous solution, it is easy to formulate. It complies with biodiversity regulations and has a natural origin content of 98.8% (Iso 16128). It complies with international cosmetic regulations (Europe, United States, China, Japan, etc.).

The Verpack group accompanies the launch of the Telma 01 product on the market

By
The editorial staff
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For the Telma 01, this nomadic product that soothes women's ailments, the Verpack group has worked in partnership to create a case that has a strong identity and lasts, in total respect of its image.

 "Doing as expected", this phrase sums up the product's commitment. Telma 01 enters the market with the ambition of soothing menstrual discomfort. Its relaxing and anti-inflammatory virtues rest on the conjunction of 7 active ingredients, selected for their proven effectiveness, in a formula 100 % natural with multiple certifications. The product is presented in the form of a roll-on bottle, with anti-UV lacquered glass, and equipped with a pink quartz ball.

To ensure its durability, the Verpack group has designed a highly resistant case with a custom-designed inner wedge that offers real savings in cardboard. For the decorations and printing, the Verpack site in Nouvelle-Aquitaine proposed inks that were partly biosourced. The challenge of this stage was to give back to the red color its light and its density without multiplying the passes.

"In Verpack we have found the ideal partner for the launch of the Telma 01. The case successfully fulfills its contract over the entire life of the product. Users keep it for storage and take it with them wherever they go. This was our goal"explains Virginie, Telma's brand manager.

U'Cosmetics: teams selected for the student competition

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The editorial staff
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This Tuesday, February 7, 2023 in Rennes was held the pre-jury of the competition U'Cosmetics 14th edition on the theme "Cosmetics and Sport". The members of the jury met and put their expertise to work in order to elect, among the 28 projects in competition, the 11 selected projects that will compete on March 16, 2023.

The members of the jury of the U'Cosmetics 2023 competition present during the pre-selection:
- Jean-Guillaume Giraudon - President of the 2023 Jury - Sales Director, Lipoid
- Cécile Bertolini - R&D manager, Bretagne Cosmétiques Marins
- Sylvie Chopin - Director of Innovation and Development, Gilbert Laboratories
- Corinne Dechelette - scientific and technical consultant, La Peau Autrement
- Emmanuelle Dumas - Founder, M.A. Wellness and Beauty
- Marion Le Goualher - General Manager, Endro Cosmetics
- Claire Lamazaa-Parry - R&D Manager, Uspalla Laboratory
- Emeline Laouilleau - Technical Director Chemistry & Care, Decathlon SE
- Laetitia Poirier - Sales Engineer France, Greentech
- Jasmine Salmi - journalist, CosmeticOBS
- Lucas Vallee, Manager IDLab - Innovation and Process, Technature

The finalist teams

The teams were judged on different criteria such as creativity, sensoriality, functionality, knowledge of the subject and execution. The jury members were able to test the samples of the competing teams in the "Formulation Innovation" category and for some projects in the "Innovative Concept" category.

Category innovative concept

Activ'Drops : University of Montpellier
Project led by Juliette Jacob, Sarah Lopez, Camille Ordureau, Flora Pare and Lucie Valentin
" No more cluttered bags with the Activ'drops bottle and its integrated pillbox! Take your 3 essential drops with you during your session: the antiperspirant with clary sage, the refreshing soap with Scotch pine and the soothing cream with arnica. Single-dose, anhydrous and natural products for a light and eco-responsible sports practice. "

AeroSkin Dynamics : University of Rennes 1
Project led by Margaux Cazoulat, Romain Cherbonnel, Léa Joannic, Solenne Mehat and Joao Gil Moreira Silva
" AeroSkin Dynamics is a product in the form of a spray with a system of interchangeable cartridges that can be screwed onto the diffuser. It meets the specific needs of athletes through four ranges. The product, composed of an XPL polymer and the active ingredient specific to its range, is sprayed directly onto the skin to create a moisturizing second skin that protects against friction. "

Cos'Mega : National Superior School of Chemistry of Montpellier
Project led by Léandre Borron, Laurine Hemous, Anaïs Piacentini, Barbara Samard and Théo Sombret

" Innovative start-up specialized in cosmetics for sportsmen, Cos'Mega launches its product MagAccroch. Inspired by the pine tree and its resources, we have created a substitute for liquid magnesia. This product is effective, true to the needs of your skin and respectful of nature. Try it and you'll be hooked! "

Lips'n go : School of Industrial Biology (EBI)
Project led by Victoire Feyants, Manon Fresquet, Myrtille Girard, Jules Gontier and Zoé Gueremy-Roy
" Lips'n Go is a lipstick adapted to all and any sports to combine protection, aesthetics and sports activity. This lipstick, designed to be used with one hand, is available in 4 shades and several ranges (aquatic, mountain and land) to respond specifically to the aggressions suffered by the lips in different environments. "

So!Cap: School of Industrial Biology (EBI)
Project led by Justine Mittler, Sixtine Naessen, Axelle Nielsen and Julie Ozon
" Our product So!Cap is a cosmetic-textile knuckle cap designed for athletes with lower limb amputations wearing a prosthesis. Its technology is based on the presence of microcapsules containing a cosmetic solution 100% vegetable, and diffusing thanks to the pressures applied during the practice of sports. The cap has a lifespan of approximately 2 years and
the microcapsules resist to about 30 washes before being recharged by pods in machine or hand wash. "

Sporty'Mouss : Polytech Angers
Project led by Marie Fernandes Machado, Henryieta Fitsner, Clara Lahellec-Etaix and Clara Le Doussal
" Sporty'Mouss is a relaxing cleansing foam without rinsing, intended for the sportsmen of any age starting from 12 years. It is a 2 in 1 product: it is a cleansing foam allowing a recovery after a physical effort. It will be easy to use and will avoid buying and bringing to the sport two different products. The cannabidiol and the arnica are the active ingredients responsible for the relaxing action after the effort. The composition of Sporty' Mouss is natural and is contained in a bottle 100% recyclable. It is the galenic, the combined cleansing and relaxing properties, the ease of use and the composition that make Sporty'Mouss unique and innovative. "

Category Innovation Formulation

BeWash : UCO Bretagne Nord
Project led by Julie Chahir, Louise Keryquel, Philomène Lecuyer, Cassandre Solbet and Coline Tilly
" The BeWash is a bi-solid single-dose product composed of a comforting and refreshing shower cream and a softening shampoo for all hair types. This product, intended for all athletes, will be available through a dispenser placed directly at the place of your sport (gym, pool, fitness room ...). "

Cir'iléa : Graduate School of Organic and Mineral Chemistry
Project led by Nasrine Chafik, Anna Machart and Sara Sassi
" Cir'ilea is a solid hair fixative designed for athletes. Its formula has been designed to be simple and natural. Mainly composed of arugula oil and beeswax, this product will maintain your hair during the effort without making them greasy but by bringing them several benefits. In addition to its format and its effective composition, it is contained in a recycled and recyclable push-up tube packaging. "

Derméole : University of Montpellier
Project led by Déborah Gilles, Hinarani Jacques, Bryan Moussi, Christele Plaisant and Élise Robolin
" Derméole offers a face stick with a purely natural formula designed to effectively protect the skin of sportsmen and women against external aggressions such as wind and cold. The stick format makes it practical, easy to use and simply portable. It is ideal for athletes of all levels and ages who practice sports outdoors. "

EZ Fresh : Itech
Project led by Clara Borguetou, Léa Dejean and Laura Etienne
" EZ Fresh is a ready-to-use single-dose deodorant in the form of malleable 99% beads of natural origin, easy to apply and effective. This product makes self-service deodorant available in gyms, making life easier for athletes! No more forgotten deodorant, no more problems sharing roll-ons, no more worries about aerosols, all that is over! "

Jock'Up : UCO Bretagne Nord
Project led by Sixtine Cartron, Solène Chaumeton, Mélissa Magnanon and Ilan Rajoelina
" Jock'Up is four natural products with practical packaging and innovative formulas. The innovations of our project: more than 97 % of natural origin, a waterproof and sweat-proof mineral SPF50 100 % foundation, a "Swop Emulsion" body cream, a vectorized perfume, a heating active ingredient acting on the skin's sensory cells and surprising textures. "

Among the 11 finalist teams, the most innovative projects will be rewarded with four prizes during the final on March 16, 2023 at the Uco in Guingamp:
- 1st Prize Innovation Formulation
- 2nd Prize Innovation Formulation
- Innovative Concept Award
- Philippe Collas Special Prize: Internet users' favorite
To win these prizes, each team will have to present its project in front of the public, the jury and the students in the form of a 4-minute pitch with a visual support. In addition, they will set up a booth to showcase their projects and answer questions from visitors.

The new electric diffuser for Serge Lutens perfume is developed by Scentys

By
The editorial staff
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Scentys, the French expert in fragrance diffusion since 2004, has been chosen by the Serge Lutens perfume house to design and produce an electric diffuser that best meets the various challenges concerning the quality of diffusion and the restitution of fragrances in the air, without compromising on the aesthetics of the product.

" Since its creation, Serge Lutens, the forerunner of confidential perfumery, has been offering its customers an unparalleled olfactory experience. This philosophy is in line with our desire to put technology at the service of perfume. Each fragrance is perfectly reproduced thanks to our proprietary technology: a capsule made of perfume beads that slides into the diffuser for a dry and faithful diffusion. "Pierre Loustric, President of Scentys

Scentys, a pioneer in new fragrance diffusion processes, has patented a dry diffusion solution by encapsulating a pure fragrance concentrate in polymer beads. The brand relies on a very strict specification in full compliance with international regulations, which allows a perfect rendering of the original fragrance.

Thanks to its partnership with Scentys, Serge Lutens invites itself into the home with new essences created specifically for the "At Home" collection. Five capsules made of perfume beads, developed by Scentys to slip easily into the diffuser and diffuse one of the five fragrances:

  • The Scottish house " Dry stones, wool and leather
  • The Arab house "The palace of the sands
  • The Arab garden "Mesk-el-laïl
  • The Japanese house "The lady of Heian
  • The linen cupboard

The diffuser and fragrance capsules are available with the entire "At Home" range in Serge Lutens' boutiques and online since November 2022.

ICCS: for a cosmetic science without animals

By
The editorial staff
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A global collaboration of cosmetics and chemical industry experts will work with animal protection NGOs to accelerate the widespread use of non-animal science through research, education and regulatory engagement.

Today, more than 35 cosmetics manufacturers and suppliers, industry associations and animal welfare organizations announced the launch of the International Collaboration on Cosmetics Safety (ICCS) to ensure that animal-free methods are accepted and used by all those involved in cosmetics safety testing. ICCS will support innovation in animal-free cosmetic products and ingredients by funding the rigorous scientific evaluation of new animal-free safety assessment methods. It will share the results of these evaluation activities with cosmetic and chemical authorities and fund training and education activities to help build confidence in animal-free safety assessment methods.

" We have seen significant scientific advances in the development, evaluation, and use of animal-free methods to assess safety over the past few decades, said Erin Hill, President and CEO of CBCI. The ICCS brings together scientists from leading organizations around the world to build on this momentum and work toward our shared ambition of a future where no ingredients or products are tested on animals. The ICCS is a global collaboration focused on animal-free science for cosmetics and their ingredients, which currently face unique challenges and inconsistent global regulations. I am honored to lead the organization at such an important time. "

Hill joins CBCI from the Institute for In Vitro Sciences (IIVS), which she co-founded in 1997 and most recently served as president. IIVS is a non-profit research and testing laboratory dedicated to the use and acceptance of non-animal test methods worldwide. Ms. Hill brings extensive knowledge to the role of President and Executive Director of ICCS, having worked collaboratively with stakeholders to provide education and training in animal-free testing methods. Her position at ICCS will allow her to leverage the resources of IIVS and other members to create programs specifically designed to advance the acceptance of these new approaches for cosmetics and their ingredients.

ICCS will work with existing organizations to:

  • Evaluate and further develop animal-free safety assessment methods and demonstrate their scientific validity for human health and environmental protection. 
  • Share the results of these evaluation activities with regulators to inform ongoing discussions on regulatory acceptance around the world.
  • Provide education and training materials to accelerate widespread adoption the latest scientific findings in animal-free safety.

Through these efforts, ICCS strives to promote animal-free methods for cosmetic product and ingredient innovation worldwide.

" The safety of the cosmetic products that consumers use and trust every day is our top prioritysaid John Chave, interim chairman of the ICCS board of directors and managing director of Cosmetics Europe. Through the evolution of scientific methods, we can ensure that safety assessments of cosmetics and personal care products are conducted in a rigorous and ethical manner without animal testing. There is still much work to be done as science advances, and multiple research projects are already underway at CBCI to advance animal-free scientific methods. "

The cosmetics industry and animal welfare organizations have been at the forefront of the development, evaluation and use of animal-free safety assessment methods for nearly 40 years. In particular, they have contributed significantly to the replacement of regulatory animal testing to address skin irritation, genetic toxicology, eye irritation and skin sensitization through innovative in silico and in vitro methodologies.

Today, while animal-free research and scientific methods have advanced, many policies and regulations still require animal test data and have not yet incorporated the rapid advances in the application of innovative animal-free science to safety assessment. This leads to a need for animal data, even when viable alternatives exist. CBCI aims to bridge this gap by understanding the regulatory needs and providing sound scientific solutions based on innovative animal-free approaches.

Rainbow Collection by Texen: optimal skincare and makeup results for a minimal product offering

By
The editorial staff
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Nourished by market observation and consumer trends, Texen is deploying one of the major arguments of eco-design: "Reduce". The Rainbow Collection guarantees a complete face care and make-up routine in 8 eco-designed accessories.

Named "Rainbow" for the notion of color and plurality it evokes, this collection aims to simplify and energize skincare and makeup routines. It brings together solutions identified by Texen with its partners around the world. Each product was chosen for its multiple uses, application areas and formula combinations that they offer brands. Apply, treat, draw, sculpt, discipline, blend, correct, blur... all the gestures are there, optimized by the ingenious principle of the "double tip". This colorful collection will be unveiled at MakeUp in Los Angeles 2023.

Drawing the eyes (Double eyes)

On one side, the beveled tip draws the line of the eye; on the other, the tip corrects and refines the line in a single movement.

The art of the eyebrow (Double brows)

Define, structure, style, blend, it can do it all. The tip colors and defines, the brush blurs and disciplines.

Reveal the contrasts of the face (Double crease)

Draw, enhance, blend thanks to the dual use. Once the formula is applied, the brush diffuses to reveal or soften facial contrasts. It is suitable for various functions: concealer, illuminator, contouring, blush.

Double cheeks

To give the shadow and the light to its cheeks, to make them rosy..., of this applicator, the solid formula appears under the action of the twist, while a foam end comes to diffuse it with leisure. It can be used for contouring, blush or even foundation.

All in one (Double star)

The double accord between solid formula and brush allows to apply blending, defining, for more or less intense results on eyebrows, eyes, lips or face. It's up to the brand to choose its application.

Everything for the lips (Double lips)

Solid formula and foam applicator work together for multiple makeup solutions such as the combination of various matte, creamy, colored, nude, glittery, setting formulas, all in two applications.

Fix the complexion (Double sided)

This accessory allows you to dispense loose powder and set it by applying it with a foam tip. Goodbye case and puff.

Good look (Double brush)

On one side, the stainless steel ball prepares the skin under the effect of the massage, activating the microcirculation, on the other side the brush diffuses the formula and unifies the complexion.

New products from Lumson at MakeUp in LA

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The editorial staff
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Lumson, the leading Italian company in primary packaging for skincare and make-up, will be presenting a variety of innovations at MakeUp in LA: from APP Light in PCR PE, the new lighter and more durable airless pouch bottle, to the new refillable glass jars in the Japa line.

After closing 2022 with growth of over 20 %, Lumson is ready to take on new challenges and meet industry players at MakeUp in LA 2023 - stand C39. Among the new products to be presented at the show is the 50 ml APP Light in PCR PE, which joins the large family of airless solutions with pouch. 25% lighter than the equivalent standard Lumson APP355 thanks to a reduced bottle thickness, it is also more durable thanks to the materials of which it is made (80% PEHD PCR + 20% PEHD).

There have also been improvements in CO2 emissions. A Spice analysis (an international platform that measures the sustainability of products and processes) showed that CO2 emissions generated by the production of APP 355 Light are 19 % lower than those of APP Start (another Lumson PE airless option).

Another "bonus" of this solution is its safety, i.e. the guaranteed integrity of the formula it contains. Thanks to a multi-layer pouch that acts as a barrier against external agents and protects the formula from any possible contamination, APP 355 Lidht is durable and safe. To complete the design, the bottle can be combined with Lumson's AA355 pump in PCR PP, allowing proper recycling of plastic components.

The new 50 ml and 15 ml Japa

At MakeUp in Los Angeles 2023, Lumson will also be presenting two new Japa jars in 15 ml and 50 ml formats, which will enhance the line. Replacethe refillable pot family that already includes Unique and Deluxe. A new solution for prestige skincare and make-up products. Japa jars have an elegant, solid and captivating shape, enhanced by an aluminum lid that embodies the values of "Positive Design".

Positive Design" refers to creative, practical solutions that combine the principles of the circular economy - reduce, reuse, recycle - and represent sustainable design concepts: Re-Think (packaging is eco-designed), Re-Gen (refills give new life to the glass jar), Re-Act (brands and consumers actively participate in the process of reducing environmental impact).

The range of solutions ReplaceThis emblem of Positive Design is also perfect for "educating" the end consumer to use products in a more virtuous and informed way. All these features are wrapped up in fresh, recognizable and highly customizable graphics: even the inner cup can be personalized with a brand's colors and graphics. Solutions that represent the company's excellence, forward-thinking vision and attention to sustainability.

" At this edition, we'll be showcasing some new products and a variety of "musts" from our portfolio that share functionality with a touch of sustainability as a common denominator. In fact, our aim is to shape the future of packaging with a focus on the environment, and our commitment from now on will be to plan, design and develop solutions that meet ethical, environmental and economic sustainability criteria. "said Lumson president Matteo Moretti.

Firmenich: new management for the integrated perfumery and ingredients organization

By
The editorial staff
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Firmenich, has appointed new leadership for its integrated Perfumery & Ingredients organization, naming current Perfumery Director llaria Resta as President, while Amaury Roquette will take on the role of Senior Vice President, Ingredients. The Perfumery & Ingredients business closely integrates the company's palette of innovative ingredients with its Fragrance activities, offering customers significant added value. A key player in the market, the Group's Perfumery & Ingredients business has the widest range of ingredients in the sector, from synthetic to natural, and from renewable to biodegradable.


" The size, depth, scope and innovation of our Fragrance & Ingredients business brings us significant competitive advantage and market-changing value for our customers. I am also delighted to welcome llaria and Amaury to their respective new roles within the organization. " said Gilbert Ghostine, Chief Executive Officer, Firmenich. llaria has successfully led the transformation of our Perfumery business since joining three years ago, and has pioneered a wide range of innovations to take Perfumery into new markets while driving winning performance with our customers. Together with Amaury, who has an unrivalled understanding of Perfumery and our Ingredients business, as well as adhering to our Group values for over a decade, they will take the company to new heights." 

llaria Resta, President of Perfumery & Ingredients, Firmenich, commented: " Our capabilities in Fragrances & Ingredients bring an indisputable competitive and differentiating advantage to our customers. Our unique value proposition, fuelled by innovation and an unrivalled, vertically integrated portfolio, offers our customers a first-class palette. The superiority and variety of our palette enables our perfumers to create fragrances with innovative and remarkable fragrance ingredients that demonstrate our commitment to nature, green science and cutting-edge technology. This covers natural and synthetic molecules, biodegradable 99 % and 100 % renewable ingredients, as well as biotech ingredients with functional benefits." 

" JI would also like to welcome Amaury to the company. He has significant experience in all our group's units, proven leadership skills and the strategic ability to capitalize on the obvious synergies between ingredients and fragrances." 

" I'm delighted to take on this exciting new challenge" said Amaury Roquette, Senior Vice President Ingredients at Firmenich. " Firmenich has an industry-leading position thanks to its team, its consumer-focused and innovative strategy, and its portfolio of high-quality ingredients. I look forward to further strengthening the connection between our fragrance and ingredients businesses, and to expanding our combined offerings." 

Amaury Roquette will take on the role of Senior Vice President, Ingredients, reporting to Ilaria Resta. He will manage all end-to-end activities in our Ingredients business. Amaury succeeds Boet Brinkgreve, who is opening a new chapter in his professional life. Amaury has been with Firmenich for over 14 years, first joining the Strategy Development team. He then joined the ingredients business, where he held various positions in sales and product management. In 2014, he was promoted to Global Head of Ingredients Sales, and in 2017 moved to Fine Fragrances as Vice President, European Sales and Marketing. In 2019, he moved to Taste & Beyond to successfully drive the Naturals platform.

Axilone Metal opens a new production site in Catalonia

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The editorial staff
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Buoyed by the dynamism of the perfume and skincare markets in the Luxury Goods sector, as well as its customers' growing interest in aluminum, an infinitely recyclable material, Axilone decided to significantly increase production capacity at its Sant Pere de Torelló site in Catalonia.
The investment takes the form of a new production site, located in the immediate vicinity of the current site. It will cover an area of around 12,000 m², and should eventually double the capacity currently available.
Construction of the new plant will start in the first half of this year. The new plant is scheduled to go into production in early 2025.
The new plant will be entirely powered by certified green energy, as is the current production site.

Cosmogen wraps Instant Serum Radiance from the new Boots No.7 skincare line

By
The editorial staff
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Boots has selected Cosmogen's patented Squeeze'n roll tube for the Instant Radiance Serum in its new N°7 line, co-created with over 7,000 menopausal women. Its metal roller tip provides an immediate refreshing effect, complementing the benefits of the formula.

Squeeze'n Roll is part of Cosmogen's Squeeze'n range, and features an on/off rotating closure for dispensing (On), applying the formula and washing the applicator (Off).

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