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The perfume and cosmetics industry recognized as a "strategic sector" in Paris Region

By deciding to make the cosmetics industry a priority of its "Regional Plan of
economic development, innovation and internationalization 2022-2028" (5RDEII), the
Regional Council of Ile-de-France, was not mistaken. It is betting, in fact, on both
the extraordinary potential for development and attractiveness of the sector, in terms of employment and growth, and the soft power represented by a sector that is emblematic of the French art-de-vivre and European excellence. It is a sign of recognition that was expected by the profession, which immediately welcomed it. After the Centre-Val de Loire, New Aquitaine, Normandy, Guyana, while Hauts-de-France and Martinique could follow the same path, this agreement between the competitiveness cluster and the first economic region of Europe opens the way with other regions to other public-private partnerships all essential to the preservation, by the French cosmetics industry, of its status as world leader. It reinforces Cosmetic Valley in the mission entrusted to it by the Government to federate and bring together in France all the players in this strategic sector for our foreign trade.

With 3,200 companies, including 80% of SMEs, 246,000 direct and indirect jobs, 45 billion
of turnover, the cosmetics industry is an essential player in the economy
of France. It represents a global market of 600 billion euros and benefits from a
annual growth of around 5%, driven mainly by Asia. Strongly exporting, at
all the links of a value chain firmly established on the national territory, which
It is rarely said that it is the source of our country's second largest trade surplus, just behind aeronautics.

Its unique ecosystem only works well because beyond the dream it embodies, based
It is supported by a strong dynamism based on research, innovation and a system of training and higher education of excellence. However, today it is confronted with four major changes: the ecological transition with the challenge of sustainable development, the imperatives of decarbonization, traceability, respect for biodiversity and the promotion of sustainable development. The digital transition with the use of big data, artificial intelligence, online purchasing, connected objects and tutorials; the geopolitical transition marked not only by ever stronger international competition from increasingly ambitious challengers, but also by powerful upheavals that threaten its supplies and logistics organization; the technological transition that is leading companies to approach the 4e industrial revolution, relocation and teleworking. It is this composite dynamic that Île-de-France wanted to support.

What could be more natural? All over the world, in Korea, Japan or China in particular, the cosmetics industries that compete with us for market share are supported by public authorities, often regional, who recognize the enormous potential of the cosmetics industry and the need to support it and set up public/private partnerships in order to make it a reality.

In France, Cosmetic Valley, which became a competitiveness cluster in 2005 and was recognized by the French government as the industry's national coordinator, is responsible for fostering these partnerships between the public and private sectors and among the players in the cosmetics ecosystem. For 28 years, it has successfully carried out this task by supporting collaborative innovation between public and private research, open innovation between large groups and SMEs, internationalization of companies in partnership with Business France, and the co-construction of winning strategies with the regions. The cluster's partner regions have so far included the Centre Val de Loire. New Aquitaine. Normandie, and French Guiana - not to mention the regions of other European Union member states that the cluster has brought together, as part of the European Commission's "Go4 Cosmetics" project, because each has decided to capitalize on the potential of the cosmetics industry, both in terms of investment, innovation and research. In the Ile-de-France region. Cosmetic Valley is already deploying significant actions with the organization, every year in October, in Paris at the Carrousel du Louvre, of the international cosmetic innovation trade show "Cosmetic 360" - to which the Ile-de-France region contributes, since 2021. through Choose Paris Region - and numerous partnerships in the field of higher education and research. The number of conferences, symposiums and seminars hosted by the seven departments of Paris, its inner and outer suburbs, has been countless. What was missing, however, was an ambitious, unifying and structuring strategy for
the leading French cosmetics region, accounting for 70% of its sales. 41% of
The company has a large number of salaried employees, most of its head offices, a significant number of production, logistics and R&D sites, as well as specialized schools of a very high level.

The inclusion of the cosmetics industry as a priority industry in the SRDEII responds to this challenge and
to a well understood mutual interest between the region and the cosmetics sector. Roadmap of
regional action, the SRDEII defines the guidelines for aid to businesses, the
support for internationalization, and aid for real estate investment and innovation for
companies, as well as the orientations relating to the attractiveness of the regional territory. It must
mobilize, under the impetus of the Region, all the economic and institutional players, in order to
to ensure their development and their anchorage in the Ile-de-France region, with four main
objectives: invest in its attractiveness; develop the competitiveness of its economy;
to develop the spirit of enterprise and innovation; to act collectively in the service of companies, employment and territories. For the cosmetics industry, the prospects, like the stakeholders, are numerous and various projects have already been discussed with the Region.

This rapprochement is historic and promising. It is, with the creation in 2021 of the "Cosmetic Industry Committee" initiated by Cosmetic Valley, a turning point in the strategy of intensifying public-private partnerships necessary for the development of the sector.

For Marc-Antoine Jamet, President of Cosmetic Valley:

" You can't keep a world leadership position. It is earned and defended. This requires a strategy, objectives and allies. The partnership with an institutional player of the size and power of the Paris Region, whose skills complement those of the competitiveness cluster, helps us to better understand these issues. The strategy is to move towards the hard sciences, which our products must integrate. The objectives are those of "Made in France", authenticity of ingredients, consumer protection, environmental protection, and innovation performance. Thanks to the region, our allies are public laboratories, universities and international relays. The contribution of the Ile-de-France region, Europe's leading economic region, will be truly essential here. It allows for a change in scale, international visibility, and the conquest of the future. I am delighted with this. We are all ready for this new alliance to become a reality and for French cosmetics to win. ".

New Golgemma website

To launch its new website, Golgemma chose the day of the summer.

On June 21st, Golgemma, producer of certified natural extracts, reveals a new colorful and enriched website.

Discover all the products (hydrolats, essential oils, oily macerates,...) in an online catalog with a powerful search engine.

Find the universe of Golgemma and its expertise in cosmetics, aromatherapy, food supplements, food...

Claude Grison wins the European Inventor of the Year Award

The European Patent Office has just announced its winners: Claude Grison is the winner of the European Inventor Award 2022 in the "Research" category.

At noon on Tuesday June 21, 2022, the European Patent Office unveiled the winners of its European Inventor Awards 2022 at a ceremony broadcast live. And it was CNRS researcher Claude Grison, director of the CNRS Bio-inspired Chemistry and Ecological Innovations Laboratory and winner of the CNRS Medal for Innovation in 2014, who won the public's vote. She was rewarded for the plant-based methods she developed to extract metallic elements from polluted soil and use these "ecocatalysts" to create new molecules for industry. Claude Grison has created four start-ups, including Bio Inspir', which will be exhibiting on the CNRS stand at Vivatech in 2019, and has collaborated with chemical, pharmaceutical and cosmetics companies including Belgarena, Colas, Klorane and Chimex.

Responsible cosmetics: when industry giants lead the way with Cradle to Cradle Certified

YSL Beauté's new hybrid makeup and skincare line "Nu" has just received the Cradle to Cradle Silver certification. This is the first time that a range of beauty products manufactured in France has received this very demanding certification. Calvin Klein CK Everyone eau de parfum, from Coty, follows suit and has just been certified Cradle to Cradle Gold. The circular economy is sweeping through our bathrooms and it is a fundamental trend.

Today, consumers are demanding much more: transparency on the origin of ingredients, respect for harvesters, reduction of environmental impact, a recycling program, eco-designed packaging ... More than an awareness, a real philosophy now advocated by the major brands that are multiplying commitments to develop sustainable products to limit their impact on the environment, from design to manufacture, until their end of life. But how to accelerate the deployment of sustainable products throughout the beauty and cosmetics industry? The Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute takes stock of good practices for the well-being of the skin and the planet.

Objective: circular economy

The way companies design and manufacture products today has a direct impact on the world of tomorrow. The beauty sector is therefore also confronted with environmental challenges to sustain its activities, meet customers' aspirations, and innovate in a context of ethical exemplarity.

The AGEC law, set up to defend a rapid and significant ecological transition, promotes the saving of resources, raw materials, energy, water, the limitation of waste and their reuse. It includes 130 articles, 29 of which are directly related to the "hygiene and beauty" sector, including cosmetics.

The law provides for the disappearance of single-use plastic packaging by 2040 and 100% of recycled plastic packaging by 2025. This requires the cosmetics sector to respect 3 orders: re-use, re-cycle and re-cycle. It also prohibits the destruction of unsold products and requires its management. With these measures, the Federation of Beauty Companies (FEBEA) expects a saving of 8,500 tons of plastic by 2025.

In this context, work on eco-design and reuse of packaging is accelerating, and waste management is improving to promote more responsible consumption. The circular economy appears to be one of the solutions to meet these constraints and reduce the plastic footprint.

Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute: a holistic approach

Different brands are already engaged in circular economy approaches but often they are reduced to the sole issue of waste or to a single attribute of the circular economy, forgetting the essential issues. To anchor an economic model in a sustainable sobriety approach, comprehensive solutions exist such as the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute.

Geno and Unilever are launching a $120 million venture to develop alternatives to palm oil and fossil fuels.

Today, Genomatica (Geno), a leader in biotechnology and sustainability, and Unilever launched a venture to develop and commercialize alternatives to palm oil and cleaning ingredients derived from fossil fuels. These ingredients are integral to the formulations of thousands of everyday cleaning and personal care products. With the growing demand for sustainably sourced palm oil, this initiative aims to bring additional responsibly sourced palm oil alternatives to the market.

With $120 million jointly invested in this newly formed initiative, and other strategic investors expected to join, the company will develop an alternative plant-based ingredient using biotechnology. The innovation is particularly relevant to cleaning and personal care products that require ingredients to foam and remove dirt. Currently, however, there are few viable alternatives to palm and fossil sources that can be produced on a large scale to make these ingredients. Thus, the company offers the opportunity to tap into the combined $625 billion market for cleaning and personal care products. For Unilever, one of the world's largest soap and detergent manufacturers, this is the largest investment to date in palm oil alternative biotechnologies.

Companies like Unilever, whose products are used by 3.4 billion people worldwide every day, are increasingly partnering with biotechnology innovators like Geno to explore, develop and manufacture new versions of traditionally sourced ingredients. While palm oil will remain an important raw material for Unilever, these alternative ingredients can play an increasing role in diversifying supply chains to drive optionality, sustainability, profitability and transparency.

Geno will deploy its proven biotechnology platform and is already beginning to scale up the process of its advanced technology to produce the ingredients. Early estimates have shown that companies could reduce the carbon footprint of palm-derived ingredients by up to 50 % with this technology-based plant-based alternative.

Richard Slater, Unilever's head of R&D, said:

Biotechnology has the potential to revolutionize the supply of our cleaning ingredients and ensure that Unilever is a forward-looking company - for consumers, shareholders and the planet we all share. This new venture will sit at the intersection of science and sustainability, meaning we can continue to grow our business without relying solely on palm oil or fossil fuel derivatives, while making our supply chains more resilient through access to alternative ingredients.

We will marry science and nature to ensure that our consumers don't compromise between product efficacy and sustainability. We are building this innovative new company to have the scale to make a real impact and change in our industry, helping to reinvent the chemistry of household and personal care products for the 21st century."

Christophe Schilling, CEO of Geno, said:

Geno's collaboration with Unilever builds on its strong track record of partnering with market leaders who are committed to accelerating the commercialization of sustainable materials in their industries - from clothing to cleaning ingredients now. We developed our technology in response to our planet's urgent climate crisis and have proven that biotechnology can replace traditional production methods to produce ingredients from organic sources that deliver both high performance and sustainability at scale.

Our technology enables alternative supply routes for materials whose supply chains often have limited social and environmental transparency, providing more resilient supply chains that are transparent, traceable and responsibly sourced as demanded by consumers. Beyond creating new transparent and responsible supply chains and alternative sourced materials, our Geno technology also represents the potential to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 100 million tons in the coming years."

Protection of the hair against olfactory pollution

Today, the term "exposome" is used to describe all the environmental factors that can have an impact on the skin and its appendages. The sun's rays, atmospheric pollution (outdoor and indoor) and cigarette smoke have long been known to dull the complexion, alter skin firmness and accelerate the appearance of wrinkles and pigmentation disorders.

In the case of hair, atmospheric pollution weakens capillary fibers, and the deposition of particles makes hair dull and brittle. But there's another kind of consequence too: olfactory pollution. Hair is notorious for easily absorbing odors, whether good or bad. After all, who hasn't complained about having hair that smells of tobacco, smoke or fried food after spending time in "polluted" environments?

To combat these "bad smells", Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care has developed a new approach to evaluate the "anti-odour" effectiveness of hair care products (shampoos, conditioners, leave-on products or mists). Hair strands are treated before and after prolonged contact with odorant molecules (chosen according to your needs), then our panel of experts assesses the product's odor-neutralizing effect compared to untreated strands.

VPI puts its expertise at the service of the start-up 900.care, for new generation, durable and refillable hygiene products

900.care is one of the most promising beauty and hygiene start-ups of the moment. Created in 2019, it has managed to rally to its cause, via participatory financing, thousands of people aspiring to enjoy quality products while reducing the volume of packaging thrown into bathroom garbage cans. The founders of 900.care met the VPI teams very early in their project: the love affair was mutual, and so was the desire to move forward together. Three years after meeting, VPI and 900.care continue to innovate in favor of a more eco-responsible consumption.

The challenge of revolutionizing the hygiene and beauty sector

The 900.care brand was born in July 2019 around a double observation: the amount of single-use plastic thrown away in a bathroom and the fact that this plastic is mainly used to carry water. Two challenges imposed themselves on the co-founders, Thomas Arnaudo and Aymeric Grange: drastically reduce the use of plastic and offer anhydrous (waterless) formulas to refill. In the fall of the same year, both visited the Luxe Pack Monaco trade show in search of the packaging supplier capable of supporting them in their project. " One thing we knew was that we wanted to create a range of specific, identifiable packaging that could be easily refilled. This meant unique molds for our brand. The VPI team listened to us and very quickly thought along with us. They knew how to bet on us and commit themselves to us "says Thomas Arnaudo, co-founder of 900.care.

Recharging as a key to sustainability

The choice of plastic came very early in the project: " We wanted to produce in France and revalue plastic. Indeed, I am convinced that if we use it well, if we do not systematically throw it away after a single use, if we favour recycled plastic, then plastic can be virtuous. It is reusable, light, strong and recyclable at the end of its life: if we look at the whole value chain, it is the choice that makes the most sense for the ecology "explains Thomas Arnaudo. Hence the choice of the French manufacturer VPI, a specialist in plastic injection.
Several packagings are to be imagined, each with their specific challenges. 900.care worked with designers to select a line of clean, consistent, easily identifiable shapes. Then VPI was called upon for the technical design phase: drawings and molds. A few adjustments later, production was launched.

Latest innovation: a mouthwash in effervescent tablets

After making the shower gel cap, the refillable solid deodorant case and the toothpaste dispenser, VPI has taken on 900.care's latest challenge: its refillable mouthwash tablet packaging. " It's a smart packaging. The tablets are stored in the body of the bottle and the opening cap serves as a measuring cup. The user puts a tablet in the bottle, adds water and obtains a mouthwash. It is an ingenious container that stores, facilitates the use and, moreover, by its design, integrates perfectly in our range "says Thomas Arnaudo.

" As packaging suppliers, we like to accompany our customers in their challenges and ambitions. It's a chance to meet a brand in its early stages, and we enjoyed joining the 900.care adventure from the start. This is what drives us at VPI: to be at the side of brands that want to revolutionize consumer habits by developing innovative and eco-friendly products with them. ", said Marc Beltrami, VPI's sales director.

" We are very happy to work with a company like VPI. It's a company on a human scale, which wants to innovate and change the way things are done. Its teams are very responsive: they knew perfectly how to adapt to our start-up rhythm. We wanted speed and efficiency: we got them. ", said Thomas Arnaudo, co-founder of 900.care.

Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care builds a sustainable and innovative future through strategic in vitro partnerships

For more than 30 years, Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care's network of companies has grown to become a leader in adopting new analytical methods and services. As part of our sustainable vision, we are passionate about working with our partners to develop game-changing innovations and new analytical perspectives to better serve our customers. In this way, we are convinced that working together is the key to building and accelerating the next generation of in vitro testing.

Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care is committed to building long-term, transparent and trusted partnerships with strategic companies that have the experience, expertise, knowledge and capabilities to support future in vitro innovations. Our diverse collaborations encompass leading European start-ups that foster entrepreneurial spirit, including:

  • Ctibiotech supplies 3D bioprinted complete skin models (production of 50 to 100 artificial skin models using skin cells from a single donor), in vitro models (different types of human cells from pre-clinical quality skin production) and ex vivo biopsy models (including skin, scalp, hair and tissue on demand).
  • Phenocell provides in vitro tests for dermatology and ophthalmology research, based on revolutionary iPS cells.
  • Bionos provides efficacy testing for the cosmetics and food industries, mainly in in vitro and ex vivo bioassays, using state-of-the-art equipment and techniques at its facilities at the La Fe Hospital in Valencia, Spain.

These three partnerships complement Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care's current global offering, and are part of the companies' overall strategy to provide one-stop shopping and offer superior, sustainable solutions.

[podcast] Innovating through logistics

To complement the article in Industries Cosmétiques n° 34 (June 2022), we invite you to listen to the full interview with Bruno Guillard, Corporate Business Development Manager Dachser Cosmetics Logistics.

Innovative logistics for the perfume and cosmetics industry. That's the challenge taken up by Dachser and its new entity, Dachser cosmetics logistics, launched last April. Explanations from Bruno Guillard, who heads up the new entity and has been listening to the market for many years...

Between false positives and contradictory studies: the reality of the allergic risk of Essential Oils

For the last 10 years, the media have widely reported on the potentially allergenic properties of Essential Oils (EO). While the projects of revision of the European regulations, in particular on the chemical substances and the cosmetics, intend to revisit this subject, it is advisable to take into account the last advances of the research:

  1. taken as a whole, thes HE are safe
  2. allergic risks are poorly understood

Thus, the HE Consortium calls on regulatory authorities to reconsider their position. The current framework is no longer adapted, it disproportionately impacts a sector that is a source of jobs, know-how and agro-ecological transition.  

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EO safety

The reality and acuteness of the allergic risk of Essential Oils is based on studies that are often contradictory and systematically statistically biased since the clinical data are maximizing with respect to the general population.

For example, a study of 62,354 patients conducted between 2009 and 2014 by the Information Network of Departments of Dermatology (IVDK) (Germany, Switzerland, Austria) and the US/Canadian North American Contact Dermatitis Group (NACDG) showed a extremely low rate of positive feedback (0,3%) for lavender EO and tea tree EO.

Thus, what is often identified as an allergy turns out to be in the vast majority of cases a simple irritation.

Allergenic risks poorly understood

In July 2021, theOECD (reference organization for the validation of toxicological tests) warns that the LLNA test produces false positives in its application to EO constituents. So that in the list of 26 allergens of mandatory labeling on cosmetic products, 5 are no longer considered allergenic according to the OECD[3] (alpha-isomethyl ionone, benzyl benzoate, citronellol, limonene, linalool).

These misjudgments often come from a confusion between the products and their oxidized versions. Today, all scientific authorities have admitted that the allergenic character of EO is mainly provided by the oxidation of the constituents of EO. The conditions ofoxidation are particular and do not occur under normal storage conditions.

In addition, some isolated components may have side effects that disappear when naturally present in a total essential oil. This is the case, for example, of citral, whose effects are not comparable if it is tested alone or in citronella essential oil, where it becomes harmless at equivalent concentrations. 

HE Consortium Recommendations

  1. Evaluate the essential oil in its entirety, rather than making assumptions on the basis of its isolated constituents.
  1. Reconsidering regulations in light of the latest scienceAt the very least, remove the obligation to indicate "May cause a skin allergy" on the 5 components that are no longer considered allergenic.
  2. Reminder of the good practices of conservation of the EO: well closed and protected from the light.

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