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L'Oréal: a new partnership to explore knowledge of the exposome and skin

L'Oréal today announced a new multi-year research and technology partnership with Israeli company BreezoMeter, specialists in environmental information on air quality, pollen and fires. 

Through this multi-year partnership, L'Oréal and BreezoMeter will combine their expertise in both aging and environmental science to develop a unique exposome platform focused on beauty. The partnership will uncover new data on how the environment affects skin aging, and ultimately provide new services to consumers worldwide, able to support their skincare needs with personalized skincare routines and lifestyle advice. 

"We are delighted to enter into this long-term strategic partnership with BreezoMeter, a global leader in climate tech. By combining our historical expertise in skincare science with BreezoMeter's innovative technology platform, we will be able to provide our consumers around the world with new services and practical advice for their skincare routines to combat the effects of the environment on skin aging", says Barbara Lavernos, Executive Vice President, Research, Innovation and Technology.

"Strengthening our collaboration with BreezoMeter, world leader in air quality knowledge, is crucial to unveil the links between skin aging and environmental exposures, such as allergens, UV and pollution. This partnership will enable us to offer new services capable of delivering the most precise and personalized skincare routines, lifestyle advice, to help consumers live healthier lives in whatever outdoor environments they find themselves in," comments Guive Balooch, Director of L'Oréal's Tech Incubator.

"At BreezoMeter, we are delighted to continue and develop our partnership with global beauty leader L'Oréal. Their deep-rooted values in science, technology and innovation are very close to our own in air quality and environmental science. We are very excited to see the two companies coming together to bring new ideas and products related to the impact of the environment on skin ageing", said Ran Korber, CEO of BreezoMeter.

Givaudan completes acquisition of Custom Essence

Givaudan expands its natural fragrance capabilities in North America with the acquisition of the Custom Essence fragrance house.

As part of its 2025 strategy to strengthen its fragrance business, Givaudan announced that it has completed the acquisition of Custom Essence, a U.S. fragrance house.

Founded in 1981, Custom Essence is a family owned and operated business in New Jersey, USA. It specializes in natural fragrance formulation and creates fragrances in a variety of categories for both local and regional customers and larger clients. The company employs 70 people worldwide.

Custom Essence's unique expertise in creating natural fragrances has been a major contributor to its success in the U.S., particularly in the area of natural products for the personal care category. Guided by a culture of creativity, agility and quality, the company has earned the loyalty of a broad customer base for which it has created some of America's favorite fragrance products.

Maurizio Volpi, President of Givaudan Perfumes and Beauty, said: "We are delighted with the acquisition of Custom Essence, as it is fully in line with our 2025 strategy to strengthen our presence with local and regional customers and to expand our capabilities in natural fragrances. Custom Essence will bring real expertise in managing a high-growth customer segment, as well as valuable know-how in the formulation of natural fragrances. I am pleased to welcome all Custom Essence employees to the Givaudan family."

Prashun Patel, director of operations at Custom Essence, meanwhile, said: "We are proud to join Givaudan and bring our knowledge of natural fragrance creation, as well as our local and regional customer base. Givaudan's technology, regulatory, supply chain and international manufacturing support will allow us to rapidly expand our capabilities to bring even more value to our customers. We look forward to creating the beautiful fragrances that consumers love together."

The terms of the transaction have not yet been disclosed, but it is estimated that the Custom Essence business would have contributed approximately M$ of additional sales to Givaudan's results in 2020, on a pro forma basis. The transaction was financed from existing resources.

ADF&PCD and PLD Paris: new dates in June for the 2022 edition

The edition scheduled for January has been postponed due to the latest developments in the pandemic. The 2022 edition will bring together the community of packaging innovators for beauty, premium beverages and aerosols for a summer edition, on June 29 & 30, 2022 at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles..

Easyfairs, global event organizer, announces that ADF&PCD and PLD Paris 2022, the world's leading event dedicated to innovations in packaging for beauty, premium beverages, aerosols and dispensing systems, will be rescheduled from its current dates in January 2022 to the new dates of June 29 and 30, 2022.

"Over the past few months, the Easyfairs team has been working tirelessly with event partners, exhibitors and the entire community to prepare for the next edition of ADF&PCD and PLD Paris in January 2022. This edition promises to be the biggest ever in the event's 21-year history. However, following the latest developments in the ongoing coronavirus pandemic, and after consultation with many of the event's key players, it has become clear that it will be impossible to to organize a successful event in January".say the organizers.

Many countries are again imposing restrictions due to the current wave of cases, while new cross-border travel restrictions have been put in place since the emergence of the Omicron variant in recent weeks. In addition, the French government recently announced the mandatory third dose of the vaccine for all adults in order to maintain their Sanitary Pass. This new requirement will come into force on January 15, 2022, just a few days before the January event.

With around 50 % of exhibitors and over 30 % of visitors to ADF&PCD and PLD Paris coming from abroad, this set of circumstances represents a force majeure situation for the smooth organization of the event. Easyfairs is convinced that postponing the dates to June is the best way to ensure the success of the event, so that it continues to connect and inspire the international community of packaging developers, designers and suppliers. 

The event will be held at the same venue as originally planned, at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles. Renan Joel, divisional director of Easyfairs' packaging exhibitions in the UK and France, comments: "Our mission is to organize exceptional events that connect the packaging community, stimulate innovation and business, and provide a truly inspiring vision of the future. We want to ensure that the next edition of ADF&PCD and PLD Paris lives up to these expectations, and moving the event to June will give the whole community the best chance of participating in the event it deserves. I would like to thank all those involved in our event - exhibitors, associations, media and visitors - for their support in this change of dates. We look forward to bringing them all together in June, and helping them boost their innovations for the year ahead."

Three packaging players join forces to create a 100 % cosmetic box that can be recycled over and over again

Eviosys, Grown.Bio and Verescence have teamed up to create an eco-friendly gift set that includes 100 % glass bottles that are recyclable and refillable, a 100 % compostable insert made from mushrooms, and a reusable and indefinitely recyclable metal box.

Three leading manufacturers in the world of packaging have come together to create a 100 % recyclable and reusable gift box for the perfumery and cosmetics industry. Eviosys, Grown.Bio and Verescence have pooled their expertise to develop a set of innovative products guaranteeing true sustainability, thus designing the face of tomorrow's cosmetic packaging.

This collaboration responds to an ongoing demand for customization in the marketplace; consumers are looking for customized, unique and eco-friendly products. The limited edition set includes 100 % recyclable and reusable glass bottles, carbon negative packaging inserts made from mushrooms and a fully reusable and infinitely recyclable metal box.

The three partners have committed to five key packaging objectives that are at the heart of this new cosmetic concept: rejecting non-environmentally friendly options, redesigning the cosmetic case, reducing the weight of the packaging, reusing and recycling.

Packaging manufacturer Eviosys, which supplies the metal box, adapted its original product to match Verescence's mushroom-based insert and glass bottles. Boxes made from recycled metal can be stored and reused for decades for other household uses, ensuring the circularity of the process. At the end of the product's life cycle, 100 % of the material used is recycled into new metal with no loss of quality.

Laetitia Durafour, Eviosys marketing director said: "Valuing cosmetic brands with high-end decorated packaging, we are proud to offer ecological and recyclable alternatives to protect the products in our boxes. Verescence and Grown.Bio were obvious partners for this adventure. We are delighted to collaborate with them on this gift box. By combining the expertise of industry leaders and sustainable development pioneers, we offer an environmentally friendly alternative for the cosmetic perfumery industry with this gift set."

Manufacturers of gift boxes for the perfume and cosmetics industry often use plastic or paper inserts that are not sustainable over the long term. Grown.Bio's mushroom packaging, made solely from mycelium - the root structure of mushrooms and agricultural by-product, offers endless possibilities for use. Natural and carbon negative, it can be crumbled and mixed with soil for use as a fertilizer.

Jan Berbee, founder of Grown.Bio commented: "We are committed to producing sustainable protective packaging using natural materials, as well as waste. Our mushroom® packaging has the same performance and longevity as non-regenerative options, but it can be biodegraded on a home compost or flower bed, bringing it into the biological circle. This gift set advocates for product reuse and we are proud to provide the insert."

Pioneering eco-design solutions for luxury glass bottles, Verescence introduces its new Cara high fragrance range, available with a new standard screw neck (GPI 15 400), offering the consumer the possibility to refill the bottle at home or in store. The range also includes mini-format bottles for perfume (spray, roll-on), skincare (oil, setting spray) and premium makeup (complexion corrector, lip gloss, cream eye shadow). Since September 2021, all La Collection Verescence standards are produced with 20 % of PCR, i.e. glass from local household waste collection.

Bérangère Raguenet, Marketing Director of Verescence adds: "As glass is infinitely recyclable, we wanted to create an eco-responsible box to promote our new Cara range of standards, in line with the expectations of luxury brands. This collaboration with Eviosys and GrownBio allowed us to promote the most sustainable packaging options for our customers, as each component of the gift box is either recyclable, reusable or compostable. We also believe it can be a source of inspiration for brands in their quest for sustainability progress."

Eviosys, Verescence and GrownBio have produced a limited edition collection of this innovative cosmetic packaging, a true showcase of their respective know-how in the service of environmental protection.

Firmenich increases its production capacity for renewable ingredients in Europe

Firmenich, a global specialist in fragrances and flavors, today announced the commissioning of a new multi-purpose renewable ingredients production unit at its Castets site in southwest France. The new unit, which will be operational in January, will increase the site's production capacity by 50 % to serve fragrance customers and meet the rapidly growing demand for sustainable products.

"This additional plant in Castets strengthens our global leadership in renewable ingredients by strategically positioning Firmenich to offer additional capacity for fragrance, provide superior service close to our customers in Europe and capture growth opportunities, said Gilbert Ghostine, CEO of Firmenich. This state-of-the-art facility also contributes significantly to our environmental, social and governance (ESG) goal of ensuring that 70% of Firmenich ingredients are made from renewable carbon sources by 2030."

"We are very proud of this new state-of-the-art facility, designed to expand our unique industry expertise in producing pine-based ingredients from recycled materialsadded Boet Brinkgreve, president of ingredients at Firmenich. This major expansion will uniquely position Firmenich as a recognized supplier of bio-based and renewable ingredients, and help our customers achieve their own ESG goals."

The 17,000 square meters of production space, spread over four floors, are equipped with the most advanced technologies in the sector to guarantee the highest standards of efficiency, quality, health and safety, in line with the Group's objectives. Its versatile design ensures the supply of various finished products as well as a wide range of intermediate products. The new plant offers more cost-effective solutions with a reduced environmental impact, thanks to greater proximity to the European market, thus reducing the transportation of raw materials and finished products.

In line with Firmenich's responsible business approach and its ambitious ESG goals for 2030, sustainability criteria were integrated into the project design from the outset.

Global Bioenergies expands the use of its naturally occurring isododecane

Global Bioenergies announces the successful completion of new toxicology studies on its first cosmetic ingredient, naturally occurring isododecane, which will now be available for use in the broad dermocosmetic and hair care markets.

In October 2020, a first phase of toxicology studies opened the door to the use of naturally occurring isododecane, produced by Global Bioenergies, in the makeup segment.

A new toxicological assessment conducted in cooperation with an independent consulting firm now complements the first study from 2020. It validates the use of Global Bioenergies' renewable isododecane in dermocosmetics and hair care products, areas where isododecane is used in much higher volumes than in make-up. This new step will allow Global Bioenergies to enrich its proposition to the leaders of the Beauty and Care sector, in order to increase the overall naturalness of the cosmetics field.

From 2022, Global Bioenergies will increase its production volumes with the Pomacle unit, which will serve the make-up market and sample the dermocosmetic and hair care fields.

At the end of 2024, a larger production plant, whose project is currently under study, would come into operation in order to fully serve these fields of dermocosmetics and hair care.

Marc Delcourt, CEO and co-founder of Global Bioenergies, states: "We are pursuing our strategy of conquest in stages: horizon 1 materialized in 2021 with the launch of our own brand, Last . At the beginning of 2022, horizon 2 will materialize with the start-up of our Pomacle unit to serve the niche market of high-value but limited-volume make-up ingredients. As we prepare for the larger dermocosmetics and hair care markets, we are already anticipating our horizon 3, which will see the light of day in 2024."

Lumson focuses on environmentally friendly packaging

Campaigns to raise awareness of packaging sustainability and recyclability are one of the main themes that Lumson has integrated into its mission. One of the avenues being pursued is the creation of refill systems, which are playing an increasingly important role in the company's launch plans.

Consumers already regularly use refill systems - just think of the food industry, which introduced refillable products years ago. What's more, refills create interaction with consumers and make it possible to personalize products.

Recharging, Lumson's new frontier

Re Place, Lumson's new glass jar with a refillable system (inner cup), is designed for easy removal and replacement, and offers a response to market expectations. "In new circular design systems, refills are an effective solution given their extremely positive impact on the environment, while encouraging new, more ethical and virtuous habits among more attentive consumers. "explains Lumson CEO Matteo Moretti.

Re Place is the first research system in a series to come, because "for Lumson, redesigning, rethinking new refill systems will increasingly become a priority, and demonstrates our unwavering commitment to sustainability, without neglecting the product's technical, aesthetic and protective functions."

Lumson, which has long focused on the 3Rs of the circular economy - reduce, reuse, recycle - has adopted three new key concepts for the refill sector: Re-Think, Re-Gen, Re-Act. 

Re-Think: rethinking packaging with an eco-design approach. Re-Gen, to breathe new life into glass jars. Re-Act, to enable consumers, who are playing an increasingly active role, to personalize their product by simply replacing the inner cup. 

Re Place uses two 50 ml Lumson glass jars: Deluxe and Unique, whose respective features are an elegant, classic shape and rounded lines with a refined look. Both feature an extremely thick jar base for a positive approach to luxury.

The inner plastic cup - which has been specially designed to allow protection to be applied to the top - can, after use, be easily removed from the jar and disposed of via the recycling channel.  

Both components can be customized - giving the various packaging elements a distinctive, eye-catching identity - using a variety of effects and decorations: from simple but elegant silk-screen printing, to more sophisticated interior lacquering that enhances and adds value to the lines and thickness of the glass.

Cardboard for airless

The Italian company also innovates in the airless sector, with carton packaging. Its XPaper pocket airless received the ADI Design Index Award for Innovation. 

The innovative nature of XPaper is essentially due to the material from which the airless dispenser bottle is made: cardboard. According to Lumson, it wasn't easy to find an alternative to plastic or glass that was lightweight, easy to work with, durable and compatible with the strict safety protocols established by the cosmetics world. 

If paper was not the best material to use for packaging (primary) cosmetics, due to the problems of preserving the formulas they contain, innovative, high-performance and highly aesthetic solutions have emerged. What's more, thanks to fine printing techniques, it's possible to transform any material into a luxurious, sophisticated product that enhances both content and container. All this, while respecting the environment. 

The new Xpaper paper airless dispenser is currently the subject of a patent application. It is part of the Touchless family of airless dispensers featuring Lumson's patented hermetic closure. 

"I feel XPaper has everything it takes to become an iconic product: it's durable, functional, safe and sought-after, says Matteo Moretti. Once the product is used up, you can separate the dispenser from the paper bottle and send it to the right recycling chain. It's practical and safe to use, because like all our airless dispensers with pouch, it's been developed to protect the product as much as possible against the risk of contamination by air or other external agents that could alter the formula. And then there's the look. The packaging can be customized using conventional and digital printing technologies, transforming itself into a unique product with a strong personality."

Texen supports its partners in their sustainable innovation efforts

In 2021, to meet Chanel's environmental requirements, Texen is adapting its industrial process. The company is proposing to work with RPET, a material derived from the recycling of PET plastic bottles, and is making its agile Smart lines available to automate and optimize production.

Thanks to the polycondensation* process, Texen was able to design a new, eco-responsible cap for Chanel's Le Lift and Hydra Beauty skincare lines, which retains the same mechanical and sensory properties as the original.

As part of the global approach shared with its partner to reduce environmental impact, this cap contains a black colorant specifically developed to make the part detectable by optical sorting, thus facilitating recycling and enabling better management of the product's life cycle.

The modularity and versatility of the Smart lines ensure Chanel a controlled production process. By managing the entire design process, Texen can manufacture the raw material and produce a finished, varnished piece in less than 20 minutes.

* Polycondensation is a chemical reaction that rebuilds molecular chains broken during the recycling process, enabling them to become polymers again. Polycondensation restores the basic mechanical and chemical characteristics of the finished product, guaranteeing its edibility.

SGS France integrates Idea Tests

SGS France confirms the closing of the Idea Tests acquisition announced last October.  

The Idea Tests group, established in 1999 by Benoit Latouche, specializes in the evaluation of effectiveness (in vivo and in vitro) of tolerance, toxicology and microbiology, as well as regulatory support for the marketing of finished products and cosmetic ingredients. Idea Tests' skills naturally complement SGS France's "Cosmetics & Hygiene" offering. Idea Tests has three sites in France (Martillac, Talence, Plouzané) and one in Europe (Bucharest), and employs 80 people.

"France is the 1er cosmetics exporter, ahead of Germany and the United States. SGS is the world leader in testing, inspection and certification. This targeted acquisition, which enhances our offer dedicated to the quality and performance of cosmetic products, was one of our key priorities in satisfying our French and European customers, whether they are raw material manufacturers, industrialists or distributors. Idea Tests is still one of the largest independent players capable of mastering all aspects of testing (in vitro, microbiology and clinical trials); the synergies with our group are innumerable, in terms of complementary service offerings and customer presence".says Alain Guy, President of SGS France.

 "We share SGS's values of customer satisfaction and innovation. Joining a group like SGS marks a new and exciting stage in our development.concludes Benoit Latouche, President of Idea Tests.

MS BeautiLab expands to North America and appoints Shannaz Schopfer as General Manager

Olivier Salaun, CEO of MS BeautiLab, appoints Shannaz Schopfer as Managing Director North America. This announcement marks the continued implementation of the company's Pulse 2025 strategy through international expansion, and positions MS BeautiLab's global service offering to the North American market.

Shannaz Schopfer has 20 years' experience in production, strategic planning and innovation. According to Olivier Salaun, " Shannaz will lead our North American activities, offering our complete range of vertically integrated solutions, including customized development for individual customers. "

To support these initiatives, Shannaz Schopfer has appointed Maria Barbieri to the position of Senior Vice President of Sales. During her 20-year career, Maria Barbieri has managed packaging, products, operations, logistics and sales, working closely with blue-chip beauty companies including Intercos and Estée Lauder.

Specializing in skincare, colors and powders, MS BeautiLab offers brands global, turnkey solutions focused on innovation, sustainability and European quality. As the beauty division of the Swiss Marvinpac Group, MS Beautilab offers a unique global package, including not only the development and production of formulas and packaging, but also a complete marketing proposition for both product and packaging design.

Generating over 100 million euros in sales, the company has a current production capacity of over 6,000 tonnes and a total worldwide footprint of over 45,000 m2, divided between production units and R&D laboratories in France, Switzerland, Italy and the Czech Republic.

In 2022, MS BeautiLab will open an R&D laboratory in Los Angeles, and Shannaz Schopfer will soon be recruiting to support business development and operations in the USA.


Key dates

  • 1964 Strand Cosmetics Europe is born
  • 1999 Birth of Marvinpac
  • 2009 Creation of the Marvinpac CZ subsidiary in the Czech Republic
  • 2015 Strand Cosmetics Europe and Marvinpac create the joint venture MS Swiss Cosmetics
  • 2018 Marvinpac acquires a stake in Strand Cosmetics Europe
  • 2020 Strand Cosmetics Europe and Marvinpac create MS BeautiLab
  • 2021 Creation of the Group Chief Executive Officer Marvinpac, entrusted to Olivier Salaun; Expansion in the United States with Shannaz Schopfer as General Manager.

Photos
Left: Shannaz Schopfer
Right: Maria Barbieri 

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