Skin'Calm, an extract of acacia robinia flower, designed to soothe sensitive skin damaged by stress or mask wearing.

Skin'Calm acacia flower extract is rich in sugars and polyphenols, both of which help fight against certain skin disorders by soothing the skin*, rebalancing the pH and correcting imperfections. Developed by Berkem, Skin'Calm is a highly anticipated ingredient for cosmetics professionals who want to offer products with a "maskne" effect.

An asset that meets current market expectations

According to a study by NPD Group, sales of facial care for acne or blemishes increased by 32% between 2019 and 2020. An increase that can be explained in particular by the stress and the wearing of the mask related to the health situation, known as the "maskne effect". The Skin'Calm active ingredient is aimed directly at this market.

Certified China Compliant, French Sourcing, Ecocert and 100 % of natural origin, it is used as an ingredient for soothing face care, body care, facial blemish reduction and facial balance creams.

"Skin'Calm acacia flower extract is a 3-in-1 ingredient that meets the high expectations of the cosmetics market. It acts on the skin's balance, has both soothing and anti-imperfection properties.says Charlène Martin, BtoB product manager for plant extraction.

About the "Maskné": Wearing a cloth or surgical mask creates a warm, humid and occlusive environment for the skin. This, along with friction, leads to an increase in sebum production. The appearance of redness, pimples and acne are called the "maskne effect".

Givaudan Active Beauty expands its portfolio with the launch of [N.A.S.] Rosemary 01, a functional cosmetic ingredient and alternative to butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) that "surpasses its efficacy in a natural and organic way", according to Givaudan Active Beauty. Made by green fractionation from sustainable rosemary sourced mainly from Morocco, this new ingredient is said to offer antioxidant benefits superior to BHT and BHA and some natural solutions, while protecting botanical oils and stabilizing colors.

The ability to offer beauty products that perfectly retain their appearance, smell and color is essential in the cosmetics industry. This proof of product quality, visible to the consumer, ensures a positive perception and contributes to loyalty. However, it is still difficult today for formulators to create a formulation of 100 % natural origin due to the use of synthetic preservatives.

[N.A.S.] Rosemary 01 is a cosmos-approved ingredient made by green fractionation from hand-picked rosemary leaves, mainly sustainably sourced from the Atlas Mountains in Morocco.

Controlled by IDPack¹With a comprehensive set of analyses including botanical observation, DNA analysis, HPTLC and HPLC measurement, this antioxidant solution is able to offer pure, natural claims to the cosmetics market.

Yohan Rolland, Global Category Manager, said: "The current set of synthetic antioxidants used in cosmetic products, such as BHA, BHT and synthetic tocopherols, are effective but challenged by a growing number of consumers. Our scientists have taken on the challenge of finding organic and even more effective alternatives to offer formulators a sustainable way to create finished cosmetic products with ingredients of 100 % natural origin."

Several tests have been carried out to demonstrate the effectiveness of [N.A.S.] Rosemary 01 compared to synthetic antioxidants. According to Givaudan Active Beauty, all demonstrated superior efficacy under difficult conditions of temperature and light exposure.

This demonstrates, according to the company:

• that [N.A.S.] Rosemary 01 is an antioxidant, 2.3 times more effective than BHT, and 3.3 times more effective than BHA ,
• that it can protect an MCT oil-soluble dye more than twice as well as BHT and its synthetic competitor,
• that it can protect water-soluble dyes in emulsion more than twice as well as BHT and synthetic tocopherols.

"[N.A.S.] Rosemary 01 outperforms synthetic antioxidants in every category, making it one of the best natural alternatives on the cosmetics market."says Givaudan Active Beauty.

_{1. IDPack was developed by Givaudan Active Beauty's phytochemists to characterize the unique composition of a botanical raw material in order to demonstrate authenticity.}

The poster presented by Exsymol at the latest IFSCC 2021 congress (which took place virtually from Cancun) was one of 10 selected by the jury (out of over 200 posters presented), for its high level of scientific expertise. The award was unveiled by Frédéric Leroy at the closing ceremony of the congress at the end of October. 

This selection was made possible thanks to the poster entitled " Visible facial pores: new insights for their assessment and tightening treatment "A new approach to pore expertise. 

This innovative approach has enabled us to demonstrate the key role played by the MAGP-1 glycoprotein in organizing the network of collagen and elastin fibers around the pore, playing a supportive architectural role. Exclusive biomechanical studies carried out in partnership with Biomeca, in Lyon, have uncovered new data, notably in understanding the mechanism of pore widening and sagging induced by aging. 

This IFSCC presentation reveals some of the work Exsymol has been carrying out in this area. It suggests that a new active ingredient based on Exsymol's signature silanols technology, with specific activity on the structures surrounding the pore, will soon be unveiled.