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Gattefossé offers a new active ingredient derived from sea buckthorn

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Gattefossé - (c)felix-audette_0053

French cosmetics ingredients manufacturer Gattefossé is stepping up the study of waste products to produce high-quality bioactives, and is offering two ingredients made from the untapped leaves of the sea buckthorn tree.

In Gattefossé's CSR roadmap, Gatt'Up&Act, responsible waste management, is a strategic issue.

"In addition to implementing a waste management system, we also integrate upcycling into our approach to innovation. Waste recovery is fully integrated from the earliest stages of development. This approach has intensified in recent years. A number of current projects use upcycling as a lever to create sustainable, responsible and efficient products, explains Laurent Schubnel, CSR Manager for the Gattefossé Group.

With this in mind, the company decided to exploit the full potential of sea buckthorn leaves (Hippophae rhamnoides), hitherto untapped. Two ingredients have emerged from this research: Eyeglorius, launched in 2024, and Noxifense, a new active ingredient.

A highly nutritious and versatile plant

Sea buckthorn boasts an abundance of phenolic acids, lipophilic compounds, vitamins and organic acids, giving the plant real biological potential.

The Gattefossé research team turned its attention to the leaves of this shrub. Work to secure the plant's supply led the company to Quebec, Canada, to a family orchard dedicated to growing it organically and processing its berries into food products. In September, when the fruit branches are cut off by hand, enabling the trees to be pruned, Gattefossé recovers the leaves once separated from the fruit, which are then transformed into juice, sorbet or jam.

One plant, two bioactives

Following the success of Eyeglorius - a liposoluble anti-fatigue active ingredient obtained by CO2 supercritical and launched in 2024 - Gattefossé announces the upcoming commercial launch of Noxifense. 

This new active ingredient provides a comprehensive approach to skin sensitivity, by reinforcing the skin's defense mechanisms against environmental stress. It is based on the emerging theory of "oxi-inflammation", the harmful interaction between oxidative stress and inflammation. Its soothing effects are achieved through a process that targets specific flavonoid families, renowned for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. 

Noxifense is currently being previewed at the PCHI trade show in China, from February 19 to 21, 2025.

In-cosmetics Global: Amsterdam, April 8-10, 2025

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in-cometics Global

In-cosmetics Global, the world's leading event for personal care ingredients, will be held in Amsterdam, the Netherlands, from April 8 to 10, 2025. It will host over 1,000 exhibitors.

To support brands seeking to meet changing consumer needs, industry leaders such as Basf, Lubrizol, Symrise, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, Givaudan Active Beauty, Ashland, GFC Life Science, Evonik and Croda will be presenting innovations that respond to current developments in the sector.

In addition, new exhibitors from all over the world - including Germany, the Netherlands, the USA, Korea, China and India - will be showcased in a dedicated hall, as they aspire to become key players in the international personal care ingredients market.

Responding to changing market trends and priorities

The event will feature several zones and conference rooms, including the marketing trends room, sustainability zone, innovation zone, fragrance zone, sensory bar, make-up bar. It will host technical seminars, a testing and regulatory forum, the formulation laboratory and the testing discovery pavilion. 

At this year's event, the Marketing Trends Theatre will be organized around three main themes: day one will focus on the European and global market, innovation and ingredient trends; day two will highlight key and emerging trends such as wellness and dermocosmetics; while day three will be devoted to the beauty trade and the future of the industry.

The Sustainability Zone, sponsored by AAK, will showcase the latest in green beauty, with sustainable sourcing solutions and eco-friendly formulations shaping the future of the industry. 

Following its launch last year, the Sustainability Zone Forum, organized by Barbara Olioso, CEO of The Green Chemist Consultancy and in-cosmetics Global's Sustainability Advisor, will return in an expanded two-day format on April 8 and 9, 2025, and will now be located on the show floor for easy access. It will cover key topics including regulatory changes, life cycle assessment (LCA) and sustainable packaging.

In addition, Symrise, Mibelle Biochemistry, Probiotical and others will offer attendees exclusive insights into key trends impacting the cosmetics sector, such as skin screening and protection, mood-boosting neurocosmetics, and feminine care in the research and development pipeline.

Explore innovation, sensory experiences and advances in testing 

The popular Innovation Zone, sponsored by Ashland, will highlight cutting-edge ingredient launches, with suppliers showcasing their key functional and active ingredient debuts, reflecting the amount of time and investment devoted to these innovations. Demonstrations in the area will highlight key products and technologies.

Other zones at in-cosmetics Global 2025 include the Fragrance Zone, where prestigious fragrance houses, ingredient producers and distributors will present exquisite aromas and scents. At the nearby Sensory Bar, attendees can discover transformative sensory experiences through innovative personal care formulations.

The Make-Up Bar, meanwhile, will inspire the next generation of color cosmetics, showcasing new pigments and formulations for eyeshadows, foundations, nail polishes and lip lacquers, all available for safe testing. These interactive areas are designed to enable R&D specialists to explore unique sensations and discover bold technologies and colors offered by exhibitors such as Luzi, IFF, Eurofragrance Iberchem S.A.U and MG International Fragrance Company.

New for 2025 is a focus on developments in regulatory testing and standards, designed to help brands justify science-based beauty claims, efficacy and standards. On the third day of the show, the Sustainability Zone forum will transform into a pop-up forum on testing and regulations, in partnership with Skinobs, which will address the latest regulatory updates, provide essential information on product testing and guide attendees through the intricacies of policy-making. The forum will also feature exclusive content on the latest advances in testing, including specialist sessions on longevity and anti-pollution efficacy. The "Testing Discovery Pavilion" and "Boost Your Test" initiatives - also in partnership with Skinobs - will offer a dedicated space for exploring the latest testing methodologies.

Technical seminars

In addition, technical seminars will offer attendees free access to explore the latest ingredients and technologies, with sessions that delve into specifications, scientific data and evidence that highlight how suppliers' innovative concepts can elevate product development strategies. Leading suppliers such as LipoTrue, Eastman, Vantage Personal Care and Sytheon will participate in the presentations.

Meanwhile, the Formulation Lab, sponsored by Brenntag and run by award-winning cosmetics scientist Lorna Radford, will offer formulators hands-on experience of formulating with new ingredients, enabling them to hone their skills and experiment with emerging techniques.

"We're delighted to be returning to the Netherlands next year for in-cosmetics Global 2025. The Netherlands, Germany and the Nordic countries represent important and influential beauty markets, and for 2025 we are particularly excited about deepening our engagement with these important regions.said Roziani Zulkifli, Director of in-cosmetics Global. As always, science, innovation and sustainability remain the backbone of the industry, and the event will continue to support Europe's leadership in cosmetic science. We look forward to showcasing the best in cosmetic science, with expanded exhibition programs and new collaboration opportunities."

Seppic unveils a preview of its new collection of illustration formulations

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The editorial staff
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Ode to mother nature - Seppic

Seppic has chosen to draw inspiration from the cinema and the emotions it evokes to create new cosmetic formulations, notably for the In-cosmetics Global trade show to be held in Amsterdam from April 08 to 10, 2025. 

"The beauty box office movie hit", a collection of six inspiring formulations for skin care, hair care and nutricosmetics will be presented at the show, reminiscent of hit films and offering real sensory experiences.

As a preview, Seppic now presents the "Ode to mother Nature" formula. Inspired by the film Avatar, this thick, light-green care cream is nourishing and has a medium to long playtime. After massage, skin remains soft, comfortable and non-greasy.

This inspiring formula boasts a naturalness profile of 99.1%*. Used as an emulsifier, the organization of Montanov 202 amphiphilic molecules (Arachidyl behenyl alcohol, Arachidyl glucoside) into lamellar layers, known as liquid crystals, improves both the stability and skin compatibility of the formulation. As these lipids have a structure similar to that of the skin, Montanov 202-based emulsions offer biomimetic textures.

*In accordance with ISO 16128.

L'Oréal invests in Korean perfume brand Borntostandout

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The editorial staff
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JUN LIM

BorntostandoutBorntostandout, a Korean luxury fragrance house, has completed a Series A financing round led by Touch Capital, a US venture capital fund specializing in consumer goods, and Bold, L'Oréal's corporate venture capital fund. Borntostandout will benefit from the expertise of L'Oréal in international brand development, while Touch Capital will provide strategic insights to strengthen the brand's position in global markets.

This round of financing will also enable Borntostandout to accelerate its physical expansion, particularly in Europe and the United States, while redefining the olfactory discovery experience through innovative retail concepts.

Driven by the vision of its founder Jun Lim, a former financial analyst specializing in the cosmetics sector and a perfume enthusiast, Borntostandout aims to push back the boundaries of olfactory creativity. Founded in 2022, the brand has developed a singular creative approach and artistic positioning, enabling it to achieve selective distribution in 60 countries within two years. The recent launch of the Extrait Extrême collection, with an exceptional concentration of 60 % fragrance oils, is a testament to its audacity.

"What makes Borntostandout a unique voice in the world of luxury perfumery is our deep conviction that creativity trumps convention, says Jun Lim, Borntostandout's founder and Managing Director. The arrival of such prestigious investors goes beyond a simple capital contribution: it's a strong validation of the idea that singularity in perfumery is one of life's greatest luxuries."

"We are delighted to support Jun, a visionary entrepreneur who has created a unique and differentiating luxury fragrance brand.says Anna-Lena Kamenetzky, co-founder of Touch Capital. Borntostandout embodies both absolute modernity and deep roots in Korean craftsmanship, generating a fascinating tension that builds consumer loyalty."

Eurofragance: a new CEO for 2026

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JOAN-PERE-JIMENEZ-CMO_LAURENT-MERCIER-CEO_EUROFRAGANCE

Spanish composition house Eurofragance has announced the appointment of a new Chief Executive Officer (CEO) for 2026. Joan Pere Jiménez will take up his position as CEO on January 1. Laurent Mercier, who has held the position since 2018, will continue to lead the company until December 31, 2025 before taking on a new role on the Board of Directors.

Under the leadership of Laurent Mercier, Eurofragance has established itself as a global player and a benchmark in the perfume industry. Since 2021, the company has posted sustained annual growth of over 20 % and double-digit profitability.

Laurent Mercier placed sustainability at the heart of the company's strategy and encouraged investment in innovation, enabling the composition house to develop its first exclusive ingredients for the creation of exceptional fragrances.

Joan Pere Jiménez has over ten years' experience with Eurofragance. He joined the company as Chief Operations Officer, and has held several positions of responsibility on the Executive Committee, including General Manager for the Europe, Africa and Turkey region until 2021, and then for the Asia-Pacific region until the end of 2023. Since January 2024, he has held the position of Chief Market Officer, which he will continue to hold until the end of 2025.

"I approach this new challenge with great enthusiasm and a deep sense of responsibility. I would like to thank the Board of Directors, the owner family and the management team for their confidence. Over the course of this year, I will continue to work with Laurent to ensure a smooth transition and to pursue the vision that has brought us to this point, based on service excellence, an innovative approach, a strong commitment to sustainability and a people-centric model."emphasizes Joan Pere Jiménez.

Sugar in skincare creams

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Cellugy_EcoFLEXY powder

EcoFlexy, the cellulose-based biofabricated material from the Danish biotech startup Cellugymakes its commercial debut with a new range of organically-based skin creams developed with the company Bioli also based in Denmark.

site-industries-cosmetiques A white jar of Bioli moisturizing and protective day cream is presented with the lid slightly open, recalling the sleek design of a Brouillon car. The label mentions the bioactive enzyme technology, suitable for all skin types and respectful of the environment.

The new moisturizing and protective day cream combines bioactive and antioxidant skincare with 100 % biodegradable and fossil-free ingredients (including packaging) in a high-performance solution with low environmental impact.

Reports suggest that the beauty industry could lose around 12 billion euros as a result of the EU ban on microplastics, and growing pressure calling for a ban on PFAS (eternal pollutants), already restricted in the USA. 

The beauty and chemical industries are therefore looking for sustainable, high-performance and cost-effective alternatives. The collaboration between Cellugy and Bioli thus offers, according to the two partners, an environmentally-friendly skincare solution that meets the stringent performance requirements of the high-end skincare market without compromising product efficacy or the user experience.

Cellugy's EcoFlexy is a fermentation platform that produces dry cellulose from the bioconversion of sugar in an energy-efficient process. Using micro-organisms to produce cellulose has less impact on nature, making production more sustainable, without the need to cut down trees or harvest cotton. What's more, this solution is a scalable process that integrates seamlessly with standard manufacturing methods and existing infrastructures, making it ideal for cosmetics and chemical manufacturers.

Discussions are underway to distribute EcoFlexy in eleven key cosmetics markets in the EU and the USA. Cellugy aims to ramp up production to commercial volumes, with a view to a full commercial launch in April 2025 at the In-cosmetics Global trade show. The product developed with Bioli is the first in a series, with others to follow. It is available from Bioli's online store and is already attracting interest from retailers.

TNT Group: marble hoods

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The editorial staff
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TNT GROUP - Marble caps - creative natural materials

TNT Group specializes in the design, development and manufacture of primary and secondary packaging. Attached to the nobility of mineral materials and their circularity, the company has explored the opportunities offered by marble offcuts from the manufacture of furniture or sculptural pieces. 

Raw, matt or glossy polish...: this machinable material offers finishing options without additional surface treatment. Added to this is a feeling of weight and freshness in keeping with the expectations of a luxury product.

Another advantage for brands is that each piece produced is unique, created from the veins of the stone. 

Ornamental caps for perfumes or wines and spirits, cosmetics or home accessories, this innovative approach seduced visitors to Paris Packaging Week, held on January 28 and 29, 2025.

Syensqo and Bota Bio join forces to develop biomimetic hair care ingredients

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The editorial staff
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Syensqo - Bota Bio

Syensqo has announced a five-year strategic partnership with Bota Biosciences, an international Chinese company specializing in industrial biotechnology.

Founded in 2019, Bota Biosciences has rapidly established itself as a global player in innovation, combining biological design and large-scale industrialization to accelerate the transition to a more sustainable way of life.

"Thanks to our shared vision and development objectives, the partnership with Bota Bio is in line with our positioning as a leader in innovation and highlights the key role of biotechnology in the rapid expansion of our portfolio of specialty ingredients."said Thomas Canova, Head of Research and Innovation at Syensqo.

As part of this agreement, Syensqo will draw on Bota Bio's technological expertise in the development of high-performance proteins to drive innovation in hair and scalp care. Key needs such as deep hair strengthening and hair growth stimulation will be targeted. Supported by Syensqo's Renewable Materials and Biotechnology platform and Beauty entity, this collaboration will focus on the development of biomimetic ingredients. It will build on Syensqo's 40 years of expertise in hair care and a growing focus on scalp care, with the development of dedicated applications to accelerate the time-to-market of these solutions.

This partnership was initiated and supported by Syensqo Ventures, the group's entity dedicated to accelerating innovation by identifying and collaborating with emerging startups. 

"Bota is actively engaged in the development of advanced strains and the optimization of manufacturing processes to accelerate the scale-up of production of innovative hair care ingredients. We are delighted by this opportunity to co-develop products leveraging Syensqo's heritage of innovation and expertise."said Cheryl Cui, CEO of Bota Bio.

Syensqo will showcase its commitment to biomaterials and biotechnology at the Hello Tomorrow Global Summit in Paris, March 13-14, 2025, as exclusive sponsor of the "Industrial Biotech and New Materials" competition, highlighting startups with transformative solutions.

Dow, Brivaplast and TecnoGi collaborate on a circular solution for the luxury goods industry

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The editorial staff
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SURLYN-caps-PCD

Global specialist in materials science, Dow has announced a collaboration with Brivaplast and TecnoGi to keep high-quality materials in the circuit longer: perfume caps made from Dow's Surlyn resin that don't meet manufacturer Brivaplast's strict production standards will be transformed by TecnoGi into components for high-end footwear and leather goods.

Dow currently supplies Surlyn resin - renowned for its crystal-clear transparency and outstanding performance - to Brivaplast, a leading manufacturer of cosmetics packaging who uses Surlyn to manufacture premium perfume caps. The production of luxury perfume caps must comply with strict quality standards, which sometimes result in inferior parts being discarded. These non-compliant parts, once discarded, are now transformed by TecnoGi, a leading innovator in the footwear and leather goods industry, for integration into high-end components for luxury footwear and leather goods.

"Our collaboration with Brivaplast and TecnoGi comes at a time when demand for sustainable materials and packaging solutions continues to grow. At Dow, we recognize that our role is to go faster and further in finding solutions to accelerate the circular economy of plastics in European industries, and we know that our customers expect nothing less.said Imran Munshi, Global Consumer Market Segment Leader at Dow. We're proud to show what can be achieved by working together along the entire value chain, and the benefits to everyone of keeping valuable materials in the loop for longer."

"At Brivaplast, we maintain the highest quality standards for our products, said Marco Roda, Head of Business Development at Brivaplast. This collaboration enables us to meet these standards while minimizing production waste and contributing to a more sustainable future."

"We are delighted to be part of this initiative which not only supports our manufacturing processes, but also aligns with our sustainability goals. Turning manufacturing waste into valuable components for luxury footwear and leather goods is a win-win solution for all stakeholders."added Paola Zanetti, CFO at TecnoGi. 

Inauguration of Roquette Beauté's center of expertise in Shanghai

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Roquette Beauté Shangai

Roquette, a global specialist in plant-based ingredients, recently announced the opening of its first Roquette Beauté center of expertise in China, in Shanghai. 

The Roquette Beauté Expertise Center will serve as a hub for co-creation and partnership opportunities in the Chinese cosmetics market. Equipped with an advanced application laboratory and a comprehensive testing center with sensory analysis capabilities, it is positioned as a collaborative space. Roquette Beauté's scientific teams and their customers will be able to work hand in hand to develop innovative formulations. Whether for make-up, hair care, skin care or oral care, the stated aim is to meet consumer needs for plant-based cosmetics that offer both durability and proven efficacy.

"We are delighted to announce the opening of our first center of expertise in China and to soon welcome our customers and partners to Shanghai. This new center demonstrates our commitment to being at the forefront of cosmetic science, and to working hand-in-hand with our partners to co-create the future of sustainable beauty."says Bénédicte Courel, General Manager of Roquette Beauté.

Roquette already had a Roquette Beauté center of expertise near Paris, France, inaugurated five years ago. The two co-creation spaces align with Roquette Beauté's strategic vision of strengthening its presence in key regions and continuing to lead the way in plant-based ingredients for cosmetics.

Roquette Beauté teams will be present at the PCHI 2025 trade show in Guanghzhou, China, from February 19 to 21, 2025.

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