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Annick Menardo, Symrise perfumer, signs Ikat Rouge by Armani / Privé

site-industries-cosmetiques A red perfume bottle on a red background, created by perfumer Annick Menardo.

Inspired by the Giorgio Armani Privé Spring Summer 2020 collection featuring ikat, an ancestral dyeing technique from Indonesia, the new Ikat Rouge fragrance joins the Armani / Privé Haute Couture fragrance collection.

Created by Annick Menardo, Symrise's master perfumer, Ikat Rouge is an amber oriental fragrance marked by a balance of spicy top notes of frankincense and bergamot that melt into the soft warmth of cistus labdanum. Layers of iris and patchouli are meticulously woven throughout the composition with a modern amber woody trail, and enhanced with intense notes of guaiac wood.

Annick Menardo is one of the great personalities of contemporary perfumery and the source of international success.

"Described as "dark" because of her taste for burnt scents (Lolita Lempicka's licorice and Bulgari Black's tarry tea), she could just as easily be seen in green or mauve - aniseed and heliotrope are her favorite notes - or dressed in red like her diabolic Hypnotic Poison. Gifted with a musical sense of chords, she composes her perfumes for those who can hear... "says Symrise.

Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna is rescheduled for September

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman holding purple orchids.

The 53rd edition of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna has been postponed. The event has been rescheduled from September 9 to 13, 2021 due to the continuing health emergency linked to the spread of Covid19.

"Concerns about the unpredictable trend in infections expressed by our exhibitors, trade associations and institutions are once again forcing us to postpone Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna, says Gianpiero Calzolari, president of BolognaFiere. Current conditions still make it too complicated to organize an international event like Cosmoprof in the first half of the year. Our aim is to be able to restart in September with an efficient and functional show, which we want to create with the contribution of all the key players in the sector. Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna will be a fresh start, to begin growing together again."

"The desire to finally welcome our community to Bologna is strong, confirms Enrico Zannini, General Manager of BolognaFiere Cosmoprof. In any case, the leadership and prestige we've achieved in over 50 years, with the growth of Cosmoprof-branded events worldwide, compels us to protect the investments of exhibitors and visitors alike. Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna is the most prestigious showcase for the global cosmetics industry, the stage on which to meet the most influential players, and at the same time to be known among market players. Expectations are enormous for the next edition, which is why we are called upon to guarantee the best conditions for the show to run smoothly and safely."

CVC acquires Shiseido's personal care business

shiseido cvc

CVC Capital Partners, one of the ten largest private equity funds in the world, headquartered in Luxembourg, announced today that CVC Capital Partners Asia Fund V has signed a definitive agreement with Shiseido Company, Limited for the transfer of Shiseido's personal care business to a new company (following joint venture).

Officially, on CVC's side, this operation is aimed at maximizing the potential of the personal care businesses and pursuing their growth.

The new company, in which Shiseido will hold a 35 % stake and CVC Asia V will acquire 65 % as a joint venture, will obtain Shiseido's brand portfolio, including the market-leading Tsubaki hair care brand and Senka skincare brand.

" We are delighted to invest in some of the most trusted Japanese brands that Shiseido has cultivated over the years. And we look forward to partnering with Shiseido as we embark on this new chapter of growth. "said Atsushi Akaike, partner and co-director of CVC Japan.

" Using our global network and experience, CVC is committed to making these strong brands even better. Specifically, we see significant growth potential in investing more in people, brands and R&D, as well as driving digitization and accelerating overseas expansion, with the possibility of going public in the future "said Yukinori Sugiyama, Partner and Co-Head of CVC Japan.

"Prestige first" for Shiseido

As for Shiseido, the company explains that it has launched the transformation of its business and has positioned the sector as one of the most dynamic in the world. premium skin beauty as being at the heart of its development. As a result, its personal care business is no longer as strategic as it once was... It recognizes that this business requires increased marketing investment to enhance its potential and drive future growth. The conclusion is simple: these objectives will be better achieved within the framework of a new business model. Consequently, Shiseido has decided to transfer the business and participate in its operation as a shareholder of the new company. Masahiko Uotani, President and CEO of Shiseido, recalls that the personal care business is an old story dating back " from the launch of Shiseido Soap in 1921. "This operation enables us to divest a business line that is increasingly incompatible with the Group's premium positioning. Mr. Uotani adds: " We are continuing to grow in Japan and around the world with our "Prestige First" group strategy. "

The transaction is expected to close by 1er July 2021 and is subject to the usual closing conditions (each country and overseas region will be closed in stages).

Photo © Shiseido

Cosmébio publishes its new manifesto

Cosmébio Manifesto

Cosmébio, the professional association dedicated to natural and organic cosmetics since 2002, has chosen to make 2021 a pivotal year in its commitments. To this end, the association is announcing the publication of its new Manifesto, which sets out the developments, commitments and values asserted by its member companies, with the aim of going even further to protect health and the environment.

Since its creation, the Cosmébio association has been evolving and expanding: today, Cosmébio brings together 60 % of the organic cosmetics brands on the French organic market, i.e. nearly 480 members.

New environmental issues and challenges have arisen in recent years, prompting the Cosmébio association to engage in in-depth reflection in order to take more effective action. With this in mind, at the start of 2021 it is publishing a new manifesto, the fruit of joint reflection with the sustainable development agency Utopies, with the aim of reaffirming the founding values shared by all members and maintaining its position as the benchmark label in the organic cosmetics market.

"This Manifesto 2021 was born of the desire to take our fundamental actions a step further. It will enable us to highlight our commitments: in this new opus, they are revisited, more committed, more up-to-date. These are the commitments that will change the world of cosmetics, and encourage new consumers to be more attentive in their choice of cosmetics. More than anything, with this Manifesto, we want to highlight the values of the association and show the full force of our approach to achieving even more ethical formulation and production of organic cosmetics".says Romain Ruth, President of Cosmébio.

"In a world where challenges are accelerating, organic cosmetics are more than ever part of the solution. Working organically is already an achievement that should be highlighted and defended. The fact that the benchmark association, a pioneer in organic cosmetics, has decided to renew and assert its commitments, to take on issues of health, climate, biodiversity and fair relations, takes its demands even further. Where we expect those who continue to blaze new trails".says Elisabeth Laville, founder of the independent Utopies agency, a pioneer in France in the field of corporate social responsibility.

Through its Manifesto, Cosmébio aims to modernize its charter and maintain its position as a forerunner thanks to its commitments:

1. Guarantee safe and effective cosmetics by choosing natural formulations and eliminating risky and controversial petrochemical ingredients.

2. Act in favor of organic farming, in the service of restoring biodiversity and in response to climate disruption, through a reasoned choice of raw materials by rigorously following specifications

3. Improve the environmental footprint of products throughout their life cycle, from harvesting to packaging. This commitment will enable us to rethink our manufacturing, production and transport processes.

4. Building fair relationships at all stages and with all players in the industry: Cosmébio gives priority to local relationships in order to promote national and even regional know-how.

5. Communicating transparently on both advantages and dilemmas: Cosmébio provides its expertise in full transparency on product composition and ingredient traceability.

6. Advance the Cosmébio label and strengthen regulations, either internally or by joining forces with other organizations and labels.

Pure Trade gives a neon effect to Mugler's limited edition Alien and Angel boxes

site-industries-cosmetiques A limited edition purple box with the word "Mugler", with a neon effect from Pure Trade.Keywords used: purple box, Mugler, Pure Trade, neon effect

Inspired by the spirit PinballPure Trade has created an original, limited edition of Mugler's Alien and Angel gift sets. Designed in cardboard, 1 tray and 1 drawer with wedge hold the bottles and matching cosmetics. This complex design reflects the expertise of Pure Trade, who rose to the challenge of perfectly adjusted die-cutting and decoration: impeccable angles, alignment and positioning of the fluorescent decorations, obtained by printing.

A round, black-painted metal tassel with a recessed star enhances the look. The top flap closes with an elastic band.
The brand's iconic bottles can be refilled ad infinitum at the Fontaine Mugler.

Stoelzle Masnières signs the technical performance of Jimmy Choo's I want Choo bottle

site-industries-cosmetiques A Jimmy Choo perfume bottle on a white background.

Resolutely evocative, the name of this new Jimmy Choo fragrance is the result of a play on words that, through the magic of English phonetics, refers both to the brand name ("I Want Choo") and to the nature of the fragrance and the bold, determined personality of the Jimmy Choo woman ("I Want You"). Sonia Constant, Antoine Maisondieu and Louise Turner, a talented trio of perfumers, created a harmonious formula around the red lily that evokes all the facets of the Jimmy Choo woman. 

I Want Choo is a dazzling oriental floral composition, an addictive and seductive fragrance. 

Like the House's other creations, the bottle was designed by Agence Objets de Convoitises as an object of seduction, its faceted glass playing with the light to reveal the perfume's delicate, ultra-feminine peach tone.

The first technical challenge was to obtain a significant neck narrowing for this bottle shape with a very high corset, to get the glass through and to obtain the shoulder in surface quality in order to give the expected rendering and ensure the proper fit of the closure. 

The flatness of the face has been reduced to ensure easy installation of the JC monogram. The distribution of glass at the bottom gives the dynamic base to this line, which rises slightly on each side.

The additional challenge was to harmonize the 5 containers, including the miniature, in keeping with the spirit of this beautiful fashion and beauty brand. The STO & Jimmy Choo teams successfully adapted the design.

4.5 ml, 40 ml, 60 ml, 100 ml, 125 ml bottles  

Lablabo unveils its new Baïa airless pack

Lablabo - Baïa

Baïa, whose name means "distinguished", was designed to meet the needs of the cosmetics sector. Presented in two sizes (30 ml and 50 ml) and two doses (0.25 ml and 0.5 ml), this airless pack is positioned in the cosmetics market. facial care.

Baïa is available as a PE or aluminum pouch (multi-layer complex) for maximum formula protection. Available in recycled or biosourced versions 30 % and 50 % (without contact with the formula), Baïa will, according to Lablabo "the evidence of organic brands."

Its pump enables dispensing of high-viscosity creams, optimum restitution (> 90 %), very high dispensing precision and dose repeatability. Its cylindrical shape allows a wide choice of decoration options. And it's always easy to fill, with no need for a vacuum line.

Lablabo, which has specialized in airless pouches since 1996, is characterized by two strong ideas: innovation and responsiveness. At the end of 2019, Lablabo joined forces with Pinard Beauty Pack. Both companies have obtained ISCC Plus certification as part of their CSR policy. 

Thanks to this certification, Pinard Beauty Pack & Lablabo are able to offer new materials derived from chemical recycling or renewable sources, and thus an alternative to mechanical recycling. These new materials are certified according to the ISCC Plus standard via the "mass balance" process. With ISCC Plus certification, Pinard Beauty Pack & Lablabo support their customers in a more sustainable and circular approach. The materials offered benefit from European food safety certificates, while complying with pharmaceutical and cosmetics specifications. ISCC Plus certification also highlights a responsible purchasing approach, with raw materials manufactured in Europe.

Eurolyo, expert in custom freeze-drying, invests in its industrial facilities

site-industries-cosmetiques A stainless steel oven invested by freeze-drying expert Eurolyo.

Eurolyo, a subsidiary of fine chemicals specialist Berkem, located in Chartres, in the heart of Cosmetic Valley, is expanding its contract freeze-drying capacity. 

Since January 25, 2021, the company, a French specialist in the field for the cosmetics and food markets, has had two additional freeze-dryers (bringing its fleet to nine machines), on a fourfold increase in operating surface area. This €1.4 million investment should enable the company to double its production over the next three years, address new markets and recruit new staff. 

Freeze-drying: a wide range of applications 

The vacuum sublimation dehydration process has several advantages: it preserves the product's integrity, prolongs its shelf life and reduces its weight, while retaining its active bases and, in some cases, its volume. 

For 25 years, Eurolyo has been supporting players in the food and cosmetics industries, as well as the chemical, fermentation, pharmaceutical and parapharmaceutical sectors, in their "made-to-order" freeze-drying projects. 

From now on, some 105 tons of incoming material per year (compared with 63 tons before the installation of the two freeze-dryers) can be processed: from mare's milk (1 kg is transformed into 100 g powder) to freeze-dried dishes, plant and marine extracts, all on optimized cycles, in clean rooms, i.e. a controlled atmosphere work area classified ISO 7. 

Development in several stages

The company was able to benefit from the financial strength and chemical market knowledge of the Berkem Group, of which it has been a subsidiary since February 2018. 

The €1.4 million investment - including €650,000 for the two machines - now gives the company greater flexibility and responsiveness to deliver orders for both French and foreign customers (exports account for 10 % of sales). While the clean rooms now cover an area of 325 m² (compared with 150 m² before the works), the enlarged premises (1,700 m²) will facilitate future developments to keep pace with the market. The flexibility of a company with a small team (four employees joined by two by March 2021) and the assured and recognized consistency of the product mean that Eurolyo can expect sales of around €3 million by December 2023. 

Projects currently under study include an R&D unit and dedicated equipment, a Eurolyo-branded product range, the acquisition of new tools including a cryo-grinder, and joint projects with other Berkem Group subsidiaries.

Exsymol: launch of a new SC range

site-industries-cosmetiques Exsymol launches a new range of skincare products.

Exsymol is renewing its range of flagship active ingredients with a version featuring a high naturalness index in line with ISO 16128 standards. To achieve this, the original preservatives have been replaced by green additives, guaranteeing that the original properties of the active ingredient are maintained.

These include silanols such as algisium SC, epidermosil SC and sirhamnose SC, as well as peptides such as alistin SC. This completely redesigned range is offered to all those who wish to enhance the naturalness of their products.

Albert Vieille: ISO 9001:2015 and ISO 14001:2015 certification

site-industries-cosmetiques A certified red and white sign displaying the words iso 9001:2015 - buguete verdes.

In a complex, demanding and ever-changing environment, Albert Vieille has for many years been committed to a continuous improvement approach to better meet customer requirements and environmental, social and economic challenges.

The company announces its dual ISO 9001:2015* and ISO 14001:2015** certification, rewarding its quality and environmental management systems respectively.

"These certifications respond to strong external demand, and are proof to our stakeholders of our operational mastery, the performance of our systems, and the quality assurance and regulatory compliance of our products and services, says the company. It is also a pledge to our customers of our commitment to providing them with the utmost satisfaction. We were able to obtain these certifications thanks to the high quality of our existing operational expertise and the collective commitment of all our teams.

Certificates are valid for three years, with annual follow-up audits. 

Arnaud Brondel, President of Albert Vieille, explains in an internal press release: "I'd like to thank our QHSE manager, Margaux Leneveu, as well as all our process managers and teams for the work that has been initiated. As this is a continuous improvement process, having these certificates is not an end in itself, but the beginning of a major effort to optimize the efficiency of our organization and the satisfaction of our customers."

* ISO 9001 defines the criteria for a quality management system. The standard is based on a number of quality management principles, including strong customer orientation, management motivation and commitment, the process approach and continuous improvement.

** ISO 14001 specifies the requirements for an environmental management system. In line with the organization's environmental policy, the expected results of an environmental management system include improving environmental performance, meeting compliance obligations and achieving environmental objectives.

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