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Novacap strengthens its Cosmetics and Healthcare offerings with the acquisition of IDbio

Skin - Skin tag

Novacap, a global player in the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industry, announces the acquisition of ID bio, a producer of natural active ingredients for the cosmetics industry, as well as H2B, a manufacturer of blood fractionation products for in vitro diagnostics.

The Novacap group serves the cosmetic industry through essential ingredients used as preservatives, UV filters, exfoliants and fragrances.
ID bio puts its expertise in enzymatic extraction and purification at the service of innovation, in order to strengthen its catalog of active ingredients and botanical extracts. ID bio relies on ethical sourcing of raw materials, selected in an eco-responsible manner, in order to offer differentiated ingredients with controlled traceability.
The acquisition of ID bio by Novacap is fully in line with the group's growth strategy which aims to offer its customers a wide range of active and functional ingredients and to expand its portfolio of cosmetic ingredients with products of natural origin.
H2B, ID bio's sister company, will strengthen the Novacap Group's position in the Pharmaceutical and Healthcare markets.

"The innovation and development capabilities of ID bio and H2B enrich Novacap's offer, as well as its ability to meet the requirements of its strategic clients", says Pierre Luzeau, President of Novacap.
"Joining Novacap will allow ID bio and H2B to accelerate their development by pooling our market approaches and recognized expertise. The complementarities between our two groups open up great prospects for the future of both companies," said Jean-Pierre Picot, President and founder of ID bio.

With this alliance, ID bio and H2B will be able to leverage Novacap's industrial and regulatory expertise, as well as its broad customer portfolio, to accelerate their growth.

Two international awards for Laboratoires Expanscience's Passioline

Fruit - Passion fruit

Efficiency and responsibility: the cosmetic industry gives Passioline, a new repairing and soothing cosmetic active ingredient from the French independent pharmaceutical and dermo-cosmetic laboratory Expanscience, a double recognition.
At the last exhibition In-Cosmestics 2017 (London), Expanscience won the "Gold Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award" which recognizes the innovative functionalities of its asset for manufacturers and end-users. Passioline has also just won at the Supplier's Day 2017 (New York City), the "Sustainability Award" for its development in respect of people and the environment.
Concentrate of precious molecules of virgin Maracuja oil, Passioline is developed from maracuja seeds (Passiflora edulis) discarded by the Peruvian food industry. These noble molecules are concentrated through molecular distillation, an exclusive know-how of Laboratoires Expanscience. By stimulating the biological markers involved in healing, this active ingredient repairs, restructures and soothes weakened or damaged skin.
These two awards recognize both our know-how in innovation and our involvement in the eco-design of our assets "explains Armelle Le Peniec, Director of Laboratoires Expanscience's cosmetic active ingredients business.

Passioline: an asset emblematic of Expanscience's CSR approach

Expanscience, a member of the UEBT (Union for Ethical BioTrade) since 2011, has been deploying its Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) policy for over ten years. This policy was recognized as exemplary by the AFAQ 26000 in 2013. Anxious to provide quality active ingredients but also respectful of the principles dictated by the Nagoya Protocol (text that came into force on October 12, 2014), Expanscience anticipated these rules as early as 2010 by defining its own responsible plant supply chain policy.
The key issue for the company is to secure its supplies, both for the sustainability of its customers and its partners. Expanscience, which has acquired its historical partner Deshidratados Tropicales in Peru, controls the entire chain up to the finished product, and has all the levers of action to benefit from the commitments made in the framework of its Better Living Program.
This responsible supply chain enables the company to secure its supplies of vegetable raw materials (avocado, maca, maracuja) and to strengthen the traceability, quality and safety of its products while taking concrete action to contribute to the development of the economic and social fabric of local producers.
These actions, consistent with our CSR approach, allow us to protect the environment and encourage good cultural practices inherited from the past. Overall, it is a whole local economy that is boosted through the act of buying plants and the creation of jobs. Passioline is the fruit of this ecosystem that we have carefully developed to offer the richness of this concentrate "concludes Armelle Le Peniec.

Croda's 100% biobased surfactant production starts

Hong Kong University of Science and Technology - Cosmetics industry

Coinciding with Earth Day, dedicated to global environmental issues, Croda International Plc, manufacturer of specialty chemicals and high-performance technologies, has celebrated a major milestone in its ECO project - a 156 million euro ($170 million) investment in sustainable production, reducing dependence on fossil resources and the carbon footprint of its new 100% range of biobased surfactants. The project involves the final installation of the outdoor infrastructure.

Finding an alternative to a key petrochemical source will have a positive environmental impact and help improve the environmental profile of everyday products, from face creams to toothpastes, paints and cleaners. Greenhouse gas emissions will be reduced by using ECO 100% surfactants of biobased origin compared to their petrochemical equivalents. Croda's biobased ethylene oxide plant will be flexible and will accept bioethanol from various renewable sources.

"Our customers are looking for products that will enable them to increase their proportion of renewable materials and reduce their environmental impact. They want sustainable, biobased raw materials to replace petrochemical derivatives, as people become increasingly aware of the carbon footprint of products. With our new ECO 100% range of biobased surfactants, we're giving our customers a surfactant that performs like petrochemical-based surfactants, but with a significant sustainable advantage, since they're 100% sustainable, 100% biobased, and made with renewable energy". says Rick Hanson, Director of Performance Products.

This milestone is not only important in the production of the new ECO 100% range of biobased surfactants, but also demonstrates Croda's long-term commitment to sustainable development and the realization of innovations. With changing consumer expectations for more renewable products and the drive to improve sustainability, manufacturers of everyday products are struggling to create products that meet these imperatives. Croda International Plc is taking the lead in developing solutions that meet consumer expectations.
"Croda has been manufacturing its key ingredients at the Atlas Point site since 1941 so the ECO project, the first of its kind in North America, is a historic step forward for Croda. We are excited to create the next generation of these ingredients by revolutionizing product technology, known as the most efficient and effective in the industry, to meet today's sustainability demands." according to Craig Aiken, Personal Care Sales Manager.
Croda's new ECO 100% range of biobased surfactants will be used in a wide range of applications, including lubricants; foam seats and paints in the automotive industry; surface cleaners and deodorants in detergents; drilling fluids in the oil industry; and cosmetics and hair care. Launched in 2015, this investment equips the Atlas Point site with a plant capable of producing ethylene oxide from bioethanol, and thus manufacturing bio-based 100% ethylene oxide derivatives. Completion of this project is scheduled for Q4 2017.

Carestia Arcade Beauty invents the scented sticker

perfume - Sticker
scented sticker

Specialist in perfume discovery, Arcade Beauty Carestia develops a historical know-how in the sector of scent keys, sample packs and perfumed objects. The company is constantly innovating to meet the marketing expectations of brands.

From the simple pre-saturated scent pad, test products have evolved to become real promotional objects, gifts capable of conveying the brand's universe and the identity of a perfume. In order to respond to this constantly evolving market, Carestia innovates with products that are both technical and creative.

The latest addition: the Scented Sticker

It is presented either individually or in the form of a decorated board from which it is sufficient to detach the motifs to be stuck and re-sticked as desired. This new form of promotion allows the brand to transmit its universe and to accompany the consumer on a daily basis: at the office, in the car, at home...
The " Scented sticker " of Carestia is made in a decorated perfume card (printing, embossing, hot stamping...) and cut and pre-cut to measure (pastilles or all possible shapes). When you use it, you just have to detach the sticker from its pre-pasted support to fix it on any surface (cardboard, metal, plastic, glass, wood...).
Delivered in a transparent pouch, this promotional item is suitable for distribution at the point of sale, in the press or sent by mailing in postcard format.

Innovation for StratiCell, a subsidiary of PAT

Cosmetic industry - perfume

StratiCELL, a Belgian subsidiary of PAT (Plant Advanced Technologies) specialized in objectification tests in vitrohas just launched an innervated reconstructed epidermis project, combining its skills with those of Neuron Experts (Marseille, FR) and Neuroservice (Aix-en-Provence, FR).
Once perfected, this new objectification model in vitro of active ingredients including human sensory neurons will be marketed as part of a range of services focusing on sensations of well-being and soothing of the skin, pain and pruritus.
This model is part of the "IMPROVE" project, which aims to design and develop in vitro 3D skin models of increasing complexity, dedicated to the evaluation of cosmetic, neuro-sensory and dermo-pharmaceutical products.
The Walloon region (Belgium) will part-finance this R&D project to the tune of 760,000 euros over 3 years - an amount which will significantly boost its R&D and innovation capacities. Eventually, these innovative reconstructed skin models will be integrated into StratiCELL's service activity, with a considerable expected impact on the sales of this PAT subsidiary.

Seppic presents new data on Fluidipure 8G

Skin care - Cosmetics industry

Seppic presents new results for Fluidipure 8G on its multi-purifying action and protection of the microbiota.

Fluidipure 8G, a biomimetic purifying active, offers complete protection for the skin cocoon. A glycine and sugar biovector, it helps limit the proliferation of microorganisms responsible for skin disorders and formula contamination. A biomimetic acidifier, it helps aggressed skin regain its physiological pH (acid mantle), guaranteeing its integrity. Available in a liquid, transparent form, this active ingredient can be easily integrated into all types of cosmetic products designed for care or hygiene, including processes without/with heating.

This year, Seppic presents three new tests making Fluidipure 8G a multi-purifying active ingredient, protecting "beneficial" microbiota and sensitive skin. Tested in vivo in hair care products, it reduces dandruff, soothes scalp irritation and eliminates unpleasant odors after 5 to 10 shampoos (clinical study carried out on 46 Asian volunteers vs. placebo). Used in skin care products, this active ingredient helps to reduce body odor by preserving bacteria beneficial to our skin. By reducing the quantity of preservatives, Fluidipure 8G is suitable for sensitive skin. For example, a latest test ensures perfect protection for up to 30 months for formulas on fabric masks, with a combination of 2.5% Fluidipure 8G M 8G and 0.1% Sensiva SC 10 or 0.1% Sensiva SC 50 .

Fluidipure offers versatile purifying efficacy coupled with ease of use. It is easily incorporated into hair and scalp care products, deodorants, hygiene products and preservative-free formulas. Its liquid form, efficacy and affordable cost make this active ingredient an obvious asset. Last but not least, it meets the strong worldwide demand for purifying active ingredients.

Test i n vivo - 46 volunteers with dandruff
Shampoo containing 2.5% of Fluidipure 8G, used once every 3 days.
In just 10 shampoos, Fluidipure 8G eliminates dandruff: the scalp is purified.

The company Bullier, manufacturer of Leonard brushes, joins the Medicos group

Cosmetics industry - StratiCELL Screening Technologies SA

Lyon-based Medicos Group, chaired by Cédric Marmonier, takes control of Bullier in Saint-Brieuc (Côtes-d'Armor). Stéphanie Bullier, who has held a 100% stake in % since 2012, is selling the company while remaining a minority shareholder.
A family business for seven generations, after the 1840 takeover of the Maison Chérion et Samuel dating back to 1779, the Bullier company designs and produces high-quality brushes for professionals and the general public, mainly for make-up and Fine Arts. An Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant (EPV) since 2011, Bullier achieved sales of €3.4 million in 2016, employs 30 people, and markets a catalog of over 3,000 brush references, fan-shaped, with pointed, square or round tips, in natural bristles (petit-gris, sable, goat, badger, etc.) or synthetic fibers. These brushes are supplied in particular to the big names in make-up and the main distributors of Fine Arts, under their own brand or the world-famous "Léonard" brand. The company also offers a range of complementary products such as kits, packs and merchandising displays.
Specific series and top-of-the-range items are produced in the workshops, located in the heart of Saint-Brieuc, which handle wick manufacture, ferrule setting, assembly, gluing, marking and inspection with over two hundred years of know-how. In addition, the company has some of its products custom-made in Asia, with the support of its purchasing office in China.
Since 2012, Stéphanie Bullier has been particularly committed to developing and streamlining production processes to reduce delivery times as much as possible. In this way, the company benefits from great flexibility and responsiveness. In recent years, it has increased its export sales to over 40 % of sales. Against this backdrop, it is handing over control of a fast-growing company with the aim of taking it a further step forward in its development.
With the acquisition of Bullier, the Medicos Group aims to further expand its range of "Made in France" services. It also wishes to provide Bullier with its industrial expertise and increased financial resources. The merger will also enable the development of new products for the distribution and application of skincare and make-up products, as well as for the fine arts.
In the short term, new industrial resources will be implemented to rapidly increase Bullier's production in France. In addition, the development of complementary products and the cross-fertilization of customer portfolios will ensure future growth. With this new operation, Medicos Group sales are set to rise sharply in 2017 to well over the €30 million mark.

 

 

Strand Cosmetics Europe launches a floral range with anti-pollution powers

Cosmetics industry - StratiCELL Screening Technologies SA

The new range designed by Strand Cosmetics Europe combines sensoriality, the delicate fragrance of jasmine flowers and the effectiveness of its selection of active ingredients to provide freshness, soothing and protection for the skin, with anti-pollution and anti-blue light results.
The 5 formulas are distinguished by their original textures, the concentration of active ingredients and their specific benefits: moisturizing, tightening, anti-dark circle, anti-stress, etc. A complementary range for a pleasant, high-performance daily ritual.

Key ingredients in the Flower Power range

  • Butterfly tree (buddleia officinalis) flower extract: Protects against damage caused by blue light and stimulates the cellular detoxification system.
  • Jasmine flower extract: Refreshing, soothing and antioxidant.
  • Bio-polymers extracted from red algae and Tara (Caesalpina spinosa): a film-forming active ingredient with a protective/shielding role and immediate tightening lifting power.
  • Centella Asiatica & Calendula extract (eye contour): Anti-puffiness, anti-dark circles.

 Floral Eye Contour provides freshness, soothing and immediate, long-lasting protection against urban pollution. The tube's zamak tip makes it easy to apply the gel to the eye contour area, then massage it in to enhance penetration of the active ingredients and activate micro-circulation for anti-dark circle effectiveness.

Floral Day Cream acts like a skin shield. Its texture penetrates gently, leaving a soft, non-sticky veil that moisturizes, soothes and protects skin from external pollution. Its jasmine fragrance plunges you into a soothing, relaxing floral world.

Floral Lotion is a lightly jellied lotion infused with jasmine petals designed to awaken and soothe fragile skin. It leaves a protective, tensing film that prepares skin for the day.

Floral Serum is an ultra-sensorial flower concentrate that envelops the skin in a silky, protective film, with an immediate tightening effect. Bursting with soothing, anti-pollution flower extracts, the skin is ready to receive make-up.

Floral Magic Mask is easily applied all over the face, providing an immediate fresh effect. The real jasmine petals contained in this transparent gel help diffuse the anti-stress and anti-pollution active ingredients throughout the epidermis.

Mill signs new collaboration with L'Oréal group

Cosmetic industry - perfume

 Designer and manufacturer of metal decors for prestigious products and packaging, Mill is now creating the labels for Viktor&Rolf's best-selling women's fragrance "Flowerbomb", as well as its new spring variation "Flowerbomb Bloom", launched at the end of February 2017. This is a second collaboration within the L'Oréal group after Roger&Gallet, a brand for which Mill has been decorating the caps of the entire fragrance range for over 5 years.

This is an important referencing for Mill, since with the Flowerbomb collection, we have gained access to the production of a perfume bottle that has become an international must-have since its launch over 10 years ago, and which continues to write its own history. says Jean-Pierre Clerc, Mill Manager.

A sober design serving the bottle's originality
On the famous faceted bottle, the aluminum label comes in a square version for the eau de parfum and a rectangular version for the eau de toilette. For both models, the label is covered with a powder pink varnish to match the juice. The text appears in tone-on-tone matte. The thin 0.3 mm metal plate is applied with UV glue.
Special packaging for process automation
In addition to the manufacture of sheets, Mill worked with its customer to develop customized packaging. In fact, the sheets are delivered in loaders to facilitate installation and bonding.
The importance of prototyping sets before production launch
More generally, prototyping is a major stage in the design of an ornamental label. Respect for hues, colors and gloss is essential to ensure harmony between all components (label, cap, pump, collar). To ensure that the prototype reflects the series to come, Mill develops it on production equipment.

Natrue passes the 5,000 mark for certified products since 2009

Logo - Product design
Natrue is a flagship organization for the sector. Since 2009 and the first 400 certified products, the label has continued to expand across Europe and beyond. Today's 5,000 products testify to the strategic choice of 230 brands worldwide (Europe, Japan, USA, Australia, former Eastern Bloc countries, and more recently Russia, India, Lebanon, Thailand and Turkey). This influence demonstrates that the label is perfectly suited to the global demand for transparency in natural and organic cosmetics.
Natrue is the only truly representative organization for natural and organic cosmetics sitting on the European Commission Working Group on Cosmetic Products., as such, it can make its voice heard at the point where the development and future of European legislation on cosmetics are at stake

It all began with a body oil, the first product to be certified in 2009! The milestone reached at the beginning of 2017 is significant both in terms of its number (5,000 products) and in terms of the opportunity it provides to take stock on the main developments in this sector since the label was created.

-> Variety of certified productss :
For example, nail care products. The launch of Natrue-certified nail varnishes is a very recent milestone for the cosmetics industry. Until very recently, it seemed impossible to manufacture a nail polish that could be considered a natural product.
The full range of hair care products are now represented, whereas just a few years ago, the use of surfactants of natural origin could be problematic. Their foaming power sometimes left something to be desired, but the development of new raw materials, combined with ingredients of natural origin, has enabled the design of new products that are both effective and pleasant to use.
Multifunctional products (for example, to color and protect, like BB creams) are now available in certified versions. Women in a hurry who want an "all-in-one" product don't have to sacrifice their desire for naturalness for practicality.
Men's products deserve a special mention. In addition to shaving products, natural and organic brands now offer shower gels and shampoos specially designed for men.
Perfumed waters directly from nature are also a recent innovation.
-> Formulation trends : an interesting development involves sourcing active ingredients from all over the world: extracts and resins from Latin America, berries from Scandinavia, shea butter and African plant extracts (such as Kigelia extract)and the rediscovery new ways of exploiting local, sometimes common ingredients: olives, pine and conifer resin, aloe vera, and their derivatives.
-> Growing consumer interest in labelled products. For natural and organic, but also fair trade, vegan or halal. It has become commonplace to see several labels on the same product. In the midst of this emergence, the confirmed success of Natrue is due to criteria that go far beyond a simple fashion effect.
-> Natrue label guarantees
An independent Scientific Committee defines the accepted ingredients and the minimum and maximum thresholds to guarantee maximum naturalness and a minimum of ingredients derived from natural ingredients.
Accredited certification bodies are independent and oversee various certifications (cosmetics, food, textiles, sustainable development).
Verification of compliance with Natrue criteria takes place in two stages: a formulation check followed by an on-site visit. Renewal takes place every two years. Another organization assesses certifiers every 4 years, to verify the competence of the bodies responsible for certification.

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