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Robertet and Aethera Biotech collaborate

Robertet - Aethera Biotech

The French group Robertet, a global supplier of natural products, has announced its collaboration with the Italian company Aethera Biotech, specialized in the development of active ingredients in the field of biotechnological phytocomplexes. 

Between nature and biotechnology

The two family businesses aim to "redefining standards of the plant-derived active ingredients industry, drawing on advances in biotechnology to produce sustainable plant-derived ingredients. 

Robertet, a pioneer in the extraction of natural ingredients, uses environmentally-friendly processes and green chemistry to create its active ingredients, including Superoxide Dismutase SOD B, a powerful antioxidant extracted from a unique variety of melon. This innovation has led to the launch of Extramel, Dimpless, Holimel and Melorun, each ingredient providing benefits in different areas. 

With its innovative and sustainable proprietary biotechnology platform based on plant cultures in vitro called Crop (Controlled Release of Optimized Plants), Aethera Biotech, a pioneer in innovative biotechnological phytocomplexes, guarantees 100 % natural ingredients free from environmental contaminants, solvents or preservatives. "This mimetic process of nature enables the sustainable production of high-quality ingredients with proven efficacy, thus promoting "enhanced naturalness".the company says. This approach offers consistency and permanent availability, regardless of the season or geographical boundaries, while guaranteeing a high level of safety and respect for biodiversity."

Through this partnership with Aethera Biotech, Robertet aims to enhance its product offering. In addition, Robertet will gradually become the exclusive distributor of products derived from this patented technology in European countries (with the exception of Italy).

"This collaboration with Aethera Biotech testifies to our strategy of innovation through the pursuit of targeted partnerships. With Aethera, we are reinventing traditional sourcing to meet the market's growing needs for active ingredients, while minimizing our impact on the environment. This alliance between two visionary companies will enable us to reach new heights in the field of augmented naturalness".says Olivier Maubert, Director of Innovation for the Robertet Group, and Director of the Actifs division.

"We are delighted to begin this collaboration, which will focus on different areas of action, combining Aethera Biotech's scientific approach with the know-how of the Robertet group. Our Crop platform will be the booster to study and develop innovative products. We are convinced that this technology has enormous potential yet to be explored, with a dual objective: to obtain standardized, high-quality and effective plant phyto-complexes, and to contribute to the respect of our planet".comments Daniele Baghi, CEO of Aethera Biotech.

An innovative rose extract

Robertet and Aethera will unveil their latest collaboration at the In-Cosmetics trade show in Paris, April 16-18, 2024. Together, they will present a product centered on the rose, the emblematic ingredient of perfumery.

AQ3Rose Crop-G is a patented, standardized biotechnological ingredient derived from Rosa chinensis. By harnessing the power of a fraction of the plant, this formulation produces a potent blend of polysaccharides and phytocollagen. 

According to the two partners, AQ3Rose Crop-G offers unrivalled protection against premature skin ageing through deep hydration that rejuvenates and revitalizes. The ingredient naturally improves skin elasticity and firmness by stimulating the production of new collagen.

With this first joint venture, Robertet and Aethera push back the boundaries of health and beauty, combining naturalness with science.

Photo taken from the Robertet website.

U'Cosmetics: 15th edition focusing on cosmetics and the marine environment

U'cosmetics 2024

Thursday, March 21, 2024 saw the 15th edition of U'Cosmetics, organized by the Université Catholique de l'Ouest (UCO) Bretagne Nord on the theme "Cosmetics & the marine environment: let's innovate on the surface and in depth!", an event supported by 40 partners - ingredient suppliers, manufacturers of raw materials and cosmetic products, trade press, institutional partners.

The event was organized by two students from the Master 1 "Ingénierie des produits et process - métiers de la cosmétique" ("Product and Process Engineering - Cosmetics Professions") program, supervised by university lecturers, and supported by a scientific and technical committee of five cosmetics professionals. Comprising a symposium and a student competition, the event attracted over 240 participants.

During the symposium, nine professionals contributed their expertise before moving on to the awards ceremony.

Competing students, in teams of one to five, had to imagine and present a cosmetics project in formulation innovation or innovative concept related to the theme. Some 165 students divided into 46 teams took part.

The members of the jury, made up of key players in the cosmetics industry, met to select the three winning projects from the 11 finalists. The winners received their awards on Thursday March 21.

Innovative projects

In the Formulation innovation category, aimed at projects presenting a finished product that complies with European regulations on cosmetic products, candidates had to highlight at least one innovation related to the theme of cosmetics and the marine environment. First prize was awarded to La Perle de Koraÿe, a project by Julie Chahir, Louise Keryquel and Maxime Questel, students at UCO Bretagne Nord and École de Guerre Économique (EGE). The idea: to transform users' beauty routines. This innovative double solid serum in single-dose form has been designed for those exposed to the rigors of the marine climate. Available as a monthly treatment, it combines 16 marine active ingredients to repair and protect the skin. 

A 2nd prize in the same category went to Ocean Pills, a project led by Sandra Ear from Compiègne University of Technology (UTC). "Ocean Pills offers a range of innovative neurocosmetics in the form of single-dose lozenges. In contact with water, they transform into a gel with a fresh, melting texture. Composed of a cleanser and an exfoliating mask, this range creates an anti-pollution routine for moisturized, soothed and regenerated skin, and provides an experience that goes beyond beauty - a real sense of well-being!" according to its designer.

The 1st Innovative Concept prize was awarded to UVérif, a project led by Charlotte Bréart de Boisanger, Margaux Brognier, Julie Boucheron, Camille Boutet and Emilie Bouvet from the École de Biologie Industrielle (EBI). "The UVerif innovation is a two-in-one product that combines a highly effective sunscreen with SPF50+, offering robust UV protection, and a sun overexposure indicator to signal the optimum time to reapply sunscreen. The latter is accompanied by a stencil in the shape of a sea animal for a playful application suitable for children."say the students.

The Innovative Concept category was aimed at projects presenting an innovative concept related to the theme of cosmetics and the marine environment. The jury paid particular attention to the originality of the concept presented, as well as to the marketing approach, the market study, the promotion of the innovative character, the brand universe, and so on. 

The Philippe Collas - Coup de cœur du public prize was awarded to the project chosen by Internet users. The choice was made independently of the category in which the project competed, via an online voting form. Ostreall, a project by Laura Alexandre-Alexis, Laura Castagnetti and Axelle Mercier from the École nationale supérieure d'agronomie et des industries alimentaires (Ensaia), won the prize. With over 98% % of natural origin, Ostreall is an exfoliating face mask based on marine active ingredients. Pearly pearls hide inside the oyster-shaped container. When pressed against the skin, they release the mask, which transforms into an exfoliating milk when rinsed off.

See you in March 2025

The 16th edition of U'Cosmetics will take place on March 13, 2025 and will focus on the following theme: "Man and cosmetics?"

The men's cosmetics industry has experienced significant growth in recent years, underlining the importance of innovation in this sector.

The question mark stems from the trend towards an increasingly inclusive society: what makes a product masculine or feminine for the same promises? What is the place of men in cosmetics, and how do cosmetics address men? Are there any taboos to be lifted?

dsm-firmenich partners with startup Interstellar Lab

dsm-firmenich - Interstellar Lab

dsm-firmenich, supplier of fragrance ingredients to the food and cosmetics industries, recently announced its partnership with Interstellar Lab, a Franco-American biotech start-up developing bio-agriculture solutions. 

The aim of both companies is to launch an ingredient research program focusing on the impact of environmental conditions on plant performance and phenotype evaluation. Drawing on Interstellar Lab's cutting-edge AI-controlled environment and biotechnology expertise, the partnership aims to reduce agriculture's impact on the climate and preserve biodiversity in critical ecosystems. 

Interstellar Lab specializes in the development and operation of advanced biofarm platforms to accelerate plant growth and trigger the production of specific molecules in plants. Their AI-controlled biofarms optimize energy and resource consumption, capture CO2 and improve ingredient lifecycle assessment through a data-driven approach. 

"Our biofarm platform represents a revolution in the perfumery landscape, understanding and responding to the industry's current needs to provide renewable, responsibly sourced and produced ingredients that inspire designers and respect the environment."said Barbara Belvisi, CEO and founder of Interstellar Lab. 

"At dsm-firmenich, we value natural ingredients and are constantly pushing the boundaries of innovation and sustainability in perfumery. Our partnership with Interstellar Lab represents another avenue of exploration in the field of agrotechnology, expanding our ability to harness the synergy of nature and science, breaking conventions to discover unparalleled excellence in terms of olfactory quality and sustainability for our creations."added Michal Benmayor, Vice-President of Fragrance Innovation and Sustainability at dsm-firmenich. 

"Our commitment to innovation drives us to continually expand the horizons of natural ingredients. By exploring advances in cutting-edge agrotechnology, we're reshaping the landscape of species selection, anticipating production and supply challenges, and prioritizing the highest quality ingredients. This commitment enables us to provide the purest, most authentic natural extracts for perfumery."said Xavier Brochet, Global Head of Natural Innovation at dsm-firmenich.

Clariant completes acquisition of Lucas Meyer Cosmetics

Clariant - Lucas Meyer Cosmetics

Clariant, a Swiss specialty chemicals company focused on sustainable development, announces the completion of the acquisition of Quebec-based Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, a leading supplier of high-value ingredients to the cosmetics and personal care industry, from US group IFF for an enterprise value of $810 million.

"The acquisition of Lucas Meyer Cosmetics is an excellent example of how we are implementing our targeted growth strategy and supporting our goal of accelerating customer-focused innovation and sustainabilitysaid Conrad Keijzer, Managing Director of Clariant. The complementary customer portfolio, product portfolio, and regional strongholds, as well as R&D and marketing capabilities make the combination of Clariant and Lucas Meyer Cosmetics a leading solutions provider for high value-added personal care brands."

"I see the acquisition of Lucas Meyer Cosmetics as a significant step forward for Care Chemicals. Customers and consumers are increasingly demanding high-value natural ingredients.added Christian Vang, President of Clariant's Care Chemicals business unit and of the Americas region. I extend a warm welcome to 190 highly qualified professionals who will become our new colleagues at Clariant. Together we look forward to exciting growth opportunities and plan to increase annual sales to $180 million by 2028, from around $100 million today."

With this acquisition, Clariant shifts its focus to high-growth, high-margin, cash-generative specialty chemicals and consumer end-markets, driven by accelerating demand for natural and sustainable products. Clariant's exposure to the market for active and functional cosmetic ingredients is thus increased. via its Care Chemicals business unit.

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics joined the Care Chemicals business unit on April 2, 2024.

Clariant will be present at in-Cosmetics Global Paris, April 16-18, 2024.

Visual extract from Clariant's Linkedin profile.

Cfia Rennes 2024: a great turnout!

Cfia 2024

Cfia was held from March 12 to 14, 2024 in Rennes. The show enjoyed record attendance, with over 21,500 visitors. 

The 27th edition of Cfia Rennes attracted 21,558 visitors (an increase of 9 % compared to 2023), who came to discover the offerings of some 1,700 exhibitors - a record attendance, according to its organizers! This result is all the more positive in that this year's event saw an expansion of the range of products and services on offer, thanks to some one hundred new exhibitors. 

The highlight of this year's event, and for the first time at Cfia, Agnès Pannier-Runacher, Minister Delegate to the Minister of Agriculture and Food Sovereignty, spoke about the challenges facing the sector. 

The major themes were addressed during this 2024 edition, through the exhibitors' offer, conferences and the show's events. success of this edition.

The show's key elements were numerous:

  • Expanded range and exhibition space with 1,700 exhibitors figures
  • Start-up Village with French Fab and BpiFrance
  • The Cybersecurity Village: innovative solutions and advice to protect against cyber attacks
  • L'Espace Tendances: ingredients from new resources and innovative technologies
  • L'Usine Agro du Futur, which this year focused on water-related tensions, with a stage organized around three major areas, and solutions linked to water conservation in line with the 3Rs approach.

Award-winning companies

With 113 entries for the Cfia trophies, innovation was in the spotlight with a revisited concept.

The 2024 winners:

  • Ingredients & PAI: Firmalis for CanolaPRO
  • Process, Packaging & Equipment: VIF Software (Solution Dataswati by Vif) for Powerop
  • Packaging: Europlastiques for Gook
  • Quality, Health, Safety, Environment: Christeyns Food Hygiene for Loopix
  • The Special CSR Prize, awarded for the 1era Cfia: Foselev Agintis Sas for EcoCIP

Cfia expands! 

The next edition of Cfia is scheduled for March 4-6, 2025, with an expanded offering.

"The show will indeed be expanding, in particular to include under-represented sectors that are in phase with the transitions the food industry is undergoing today and in the years to come, explains event director Sébastien Gillet. Themed areas and new products will focus on the major challenges facing the food industry. We owe the success of such an event to our visitors, exhibitors and partners, without ever losing its values and conviviality. The food industry is a big family where people like to get together, and we look forward to seeing you on March 4, 5 and 6, 2025! 

Senevisium, Silab's anti-aging active ingredient, wins another award

Senevisium - Silab

Silab's natural anti-aging active, Senevisium, was awarded 1st prize at the C&T Allē Awards in the Actives/Anti-aging category at the Red Carpet Awards Gala on March 6, 2024 in Los Angeles, in conjunction with the Beauty Accelerate conference, less than a year after winning 1st prize at the ICIC Award and 1st prize at the Ringier Award in Asia.

For the development of this longevity concentrate from Ginkgo biloba (a supercentenarian tree with remarkable longevity), Silab has deciphered the phenomenon of immunoevasion, a strategy put in place by certain senescent fibroblasts to avoid being eliminated by the immune system. This natural elimination is nevertheless beneficial, since persistent senescent fibroblasts have deleterious effects on nearby cells.

Silab's research teams have developed some original modelling studies in vitro and in vivo which, according to the company, highlighted the accentuation of this immuno-evasion mechanism on a skin-wide scale after the age of 60. This mechanism leads to profound changes: wrinkles, dull complexion, loss of elasticity and age spots. Silab indicates that, through its targeted action, Senevisium is capable of counteracting the immunoevasion of senescent fibroblasts, enabling them to be eliminated by the immune system.

"We are delighted that the high scientific level of this active ingredient has been recognized by the cosmetics industry. Senevisium is in fact an innovative cosmetic solution, the fruit of a cutting-edge research program which has enabled us, for the first time, to highlight the consequences of the immunoevasion of senescent fibroblasts during skin ageing".says Brigitte Closs-Gonthier, Chairman of the Board and General Manager in charge of R&D, Quality and Communications at Silab.

Photo taken from the Silab website.

IFF to unveil the trends shaping the beauty and personal care industry at in-Cosmetics Global 2024  

site-industries-cosmetiques A blonde-haired woman sits on the floor, one hand supporting her as she leans back, dressed in a white sleeveless top and beige pants on a two-tone yellow and draft background.

IFF and LMR Naturals (LMR), its subsidiary, will be presenting trend-setting concepts and the latest innovations at in-cosmetics Global 2024 Paris, from April 16 to 18 on stand 1N140.

This year, IFF and LMR will go beyond the traditional show format and introduce an immersive sensory experience - "Divergent dialogues: when art meets science in personal care formulations". 

This immersive experience will feature eight innovative formulations, offering visitors a sensory odyssey in which they will engage in tactile, auditory and olfactory stimulation. 

Featuring IFF ingredients from the Genencare natural actives range, the Aurist functional range and the fragrance portfolio, these formulations illustrate the five key market and sensory trends that IFF has identified as trends that will shape the beauty and personal care industry in 2024:

  • Holistic wellness: As consumers become increasingly health-conscious and take a holistic approach to their own mental and physical well-being, beauty routines will be extended beyond appearance to maximize pleasure, relaxation and wellness benefits.
  • Sensory experiences: Consumers value sensory experiences in their daily routine, and choose products that transform mundane tasks into moments of pleasure and enjoyment.
  • Budget-conscious consumers: in a difficult economic climate, consumers continue to indulge themselves, giving priority to products that are functional and effective without compromising on price.
  • Sustainable choices: The environmental characteristics of beauty and personal care products have become an integral part of the decision-making process, reflecting a broader cultural shift towards responsible, mindful consumerism.
  • New trust equation: Consumer behavior is changing, emphasizing their preference for scientifically-backed products with proven efficacy and safety.

"Our unwavering commitment to innovation, coupled with substantial investment in research and development, underlines our creative and scientific expertise, said Simon Herriott, President of Health & Biosciences and Scent at IFF. This enables our customers not only to navigate, but also to thrive in the highly competitive and constantly evolving beauty and personal care industry. We're not just keeping pace, we're actively shaping the future of personal care solutions."

Among the products presented at the show are :

  • The Active Essences collection from LMR Naturals, an innovative range of fragrance ingredients offering renewable absolutes and extracts obtained by supercritical CO2 treated with recycled CO2. The three ingredients to be presented at the show are : Narcisse Absolute Conscious LMR, Pepper Pink CO2 Extract LMR, and Pepper Timur CO2 Extract LMR. These ingredients have been scientifically tested in vitro to demonstrate their benefits for skin, hair and scalp. This collection is also beneficial for emotional and cognitive well-being.
  • Oum, a collection of body care formulations, a range including a nectar body cleanser, a shower sorbet body lotion and a neck and body serum containing Aurist AGC, a new, easily biodegradable conditioning polymer made possible by IFF's exclusive Designed Enzymatic Biopolymers (DEB) technology. Aurist AGC was launched last March as a revitalizing biopolymer for hair, and was reintroduced in October with a revitalizing effect for skin.

Visitors will be able to gain formulation knowledge on the Aurist functional line at an IFF technical seminar entitled "Achieve Formulation Greats: Novel biopolymers for new textures and formats" on Wednesday April 17 at 11am.

The rocky soil of Haute Provence in a perfume 

Nissaba - Provence

For the young perfume house Nissaba, Sébastien Cresp has created a fragrance with a rich, aromatic bouquet from the rocky soil of Haute Provence. With "Provence", Sébastien Cresp, son of a perfumer and a native of the region, wanted to illustrate the scents of his native land. 

To compose the Provence fragrance, five plants were selected in the form of extracts: Diva lavender, followed by Lavandin absolute and Hyssop from Haute Provence, mint oil for freshness, coriander seeds from Provence and pepper extracts, and finally clary sage, a crop that has become very important in the region today.

"I built this fragrance around this Provençal accord. Then I married it with a green tea accord, then sophisticated it with spicy, vegetal and green facets. Finally, I worked on a woody, sandalwood base. When I smell it, I'm transported to Provence.explains Sébastien Cresp.

"We set the balance point at at least 90% of natural origin, in order to maximize naturalness while leaving access to the molecules to remain in high perfumery. Our alcohol is certified organic and of French origin. But the most important thing is to formulate with the best natural extracts from the best origins, to create the right conditions for perfumers, and to pay tribute to the growers of perfume plants and their know-how".says the perfumer.

Founded by Sébastien Tissot, Nissaba's creative approach is based on having top perfumers assemble the best of a country's local ingredients. The starting point is the identification of a region's raw materials, and the rigorous inventory of the best natural extracts from these terroirs, from which the formula for each perfume is composed.

The Nissaba fragrance collection comprises six scents, created with the contribution of seven perfumers from dsm-Firmenich: Nicolas Bonneville, Sébastien Cresp, Ilias Ermenidis, Alexandra Monet, Fabrice Pellegrin, Coralie Spicher and Frank Voelkl.

Twelve perfume pumps for 12 astrological signs

Astrological-Perfumes-Silgan-Dispensing

For International Fragrance Week, Silgan Dispensing associated each zodiac sign with a perfume pump. The American company developed a spray for each of the 12 astrological signs and the personality it embodies, creating an experience that transcends the spray to the application.

The company points out that perfume, as a form of self-expression and self-improvement, has been cherished throughout history, its roots going back to ancient civilizations. Similarly, astrology - the study of the stars, their positions and their supposed influence on human affairs and natural phenomena - has traversed cultures for centuries, guiding individuals in understanding themselves and their destiny for millennia.

With over 60 years of expertise, Silgan Dispensing is renowned for its innovative fragrance dispensing solutions. The company is one of the world's leading suppliers of high-tech actuators, pumps, sprays and dispensing closure solutions for leading consumer brands in the home, health and beauty markets. 

900.care raises €21 million

site-industries-cosmetiques Two smiling men with similar features, possibly twins, hold and present 900.care sun protection products against a yellow polka-dot background.

Launching commercially in 2021, 900.care has set itself the mission of democratizing refills in the hygiene-beauty industry. The young company has just closed a new €21 million round of financing. This round was led by the arrival of the impact fund Lombard Odier Investment Managers and by long-standing investors White Star Capital, Swen Blue Ocean and Founders Future.

"It's our rapid growth among an increasingly broad population that has convinced our existing investors to renew their confidence in us, and new ones to want to join us. This round of financing will enable us to amplify our mission to make recharging the new norm, by making our products accessible to everyone in France and Europe. And it will multiply our already substantial impact - over 4M pieces of plastic waste avoided since our launch!"says Aymeric Grange, CEO and co-founder of 900.care.

The company almost tripled its sales in 2023, topping €10m by the end of the year. It aims to reach profitability by the end of 2024, with sales of €100 million within three years. 900.care also plans to accelerate its product development and internationalization in Europe.

Based on the observation that 90 % of conventional hygiene and cleaning products are made up of water transported throughout the supply chain, from factories to supermarkets, the company has decided to supply only the active ingredients of these products, leaving them to be mixed with tap water at home, in a reusable bottle.

900.care sells small sticks of compressed active ingredients, which, when dissolved in water, produce over 15 different products, depending on the formula, from shower gel to shampoo to deodorant. All made in France, with natural formulas and at prices comparable, or even lower, according to the company, than those of mass retailers.

A subscription system that makes everyday life easier for the French 

With a monthly subscription system, products are delivered by post directly to the home. The brand offers a range of shower gels, toothpastes, deodorants and shampoos to be mixed with water in a reusable bottle. 900.care claims 235,000 active subscriptions across France.

"900.care is precisely the kind of model we see as promising for the future, since the brand offers a virtuous model that minimizes plastic production. This simple, easy-to-use solution, accessible to the greatest number of people and supported by an innovative industrial process, enables us to help consumers adopt new reflexes on a daily basis".says Victoire Carous, co-manager of Lombard Odier Investment Managers' Plastic Circularity fund.

"White Star Capital is convinced that the companies that will have a positive impact on consumers' everyday lives and on the planet will also become the most successful businesses. That's why we're proud to continue supporting 900.care".comments Matthieu Lattes, General Partner at White Star Capital.

"We are proud to support a company that strives to have the most accessible price positioning possible, which contributes to multiplying its positive impact on the planet and its oceans."Mélanie Le Guen, Principal at Swen Blue Ocean.

Photo: from left to right, Aymeric Grange and Thomas Arnaudo, the two founders of 900.care.

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