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Lipoid Kosmetik wins three BSB Innovation Awards 2024

LK_BSB Award 2024_BakuLipid_PhytoSolve Astaxanthin_Immortelle Oil Pro

Lipoid Kosmetik, a leading Swiss manufacturer of botanical extracts, actives and natural phospholipid products for the cosmetics and personal care industry, won three awards in three categories at the 22nd BSB Innovation Awards in 2024, despite the quality of the other products entered in the competition.

In the "Cosmetics/Raw Materials/Actives" category, its recently launched product, BakuLipid, won 3rd prize in its category. BakuLipid is a blend of the plant-derived alternative retinol bakuchiol and unsaturated phospholipids to improve skin penetration.

PhytoSolve Astaxanthin, a preformed emulsion containing the powerful antioxidant astaxanthin and natural phospholipids, won 3rd prize in the "Cosmetics/Raw Materials/Functionals and Recipients" category. 

In addition, Lipoid Kosmetik's Immortelle Oil Pro extract, renowned for its skin-firming and rejuvenating properties, was awarded 2nd prize in the "Natural Products/Raw Material/Actives" category, with the international jury praising its "convincing efficacy results, which respond to an ongoing challenge in body care".

"Being among the winners of this year's BSB Innovation Awards, alongside other industry leaders, underlines our unwavering commitment to developing innovative natural ingredients, underpinned by sound scientific research, appealing concepts and in tune with prevailing cosmetic trends."says the company.

Agrimer, a new wave 

Agrimer

To support its growth, Agrimer, a company specializing in the harvesting and processing of seaweed for three activities - ingredients, cosmetics and agriculture - is strengthening its signature with a new logo and a new slogan: "The ocean of possibilities".

Founded in 1986, Agrimer promotes a natural, concentrated seaweed industry. As a "harvester-manufacturer", the company is sensitive to the marine environment and promotes expert know-how that respects this resource. 

To reinforce its identity, the new logo combines simplicity and sobriety to gain in strength and modernity. Its blue color evokes the infinite expanse of the oceans, symbolizing the constant ambition to explore, evolve and expand. The green hue embodies naturalness. It represents a commitment to the preservation of marine biodiversity and the responsible use of resources.

Logo Agrimer- Ingredients - Market info

"This ocean blue-water green duo symbolizes the balance between the marine strength and naturalness of Agrimer products. We worked on a stylized E to give character and reinforce the company's Breton identity".says the company.

The new signature that accompanies this logo, "The ocean of possibilities", is intended to embody the spirit of exploration, innovation and discovery that characterizes Agrimer. It is based on a vision of the future in which opportunities are as vast as the oceans themselves. With a trump card: their resources, algae.

"The oceans are home to an unsuspected treasure: seaweed. We highlight their diversity and power. Super marine plants, these natural treasures offer a multitude of possibilities for mankind.says Agrimer. Seaweed is an infinite source of scientific discovery and technological innovation, offering solutions for health, nutrition, cosmetics and agriculture. By associating "The Ocean of Possibilities" with the powers of algae, we invite you to explore new horizons, push back the boundaries of knowledge and imagine innovative solutions inspired by nature."

By exploring the powers of algae, Agrimer aims to pave the way for a more sustainable, environmentally-friendly future. "L'océan des Possibles" embodies this vision of a world where natural resources are self-renewing. By respecting their reproduction cycles, fallowing areas and using non-invasive harvesting methods, Agrimer is acting responsibly.

This new identity is accompanied by a new website that highlights the brand's commitment while offering easy access to its catalog." 

Photo taken from Agrimer's Instagram account.

A film-forming biopolymer based on pineapple

Pineapple - Active Concepts

Active Concepts, an Italian company that creates cosmetic bioactives, points out that global warming, marked by record temperatures, directly affects the aging and quality of skin and hair. Cosmetic formulations use a variety of raw materials to protect these parts of the body, with polymers playing a key role. 

In response to the need to reduce petrochemical pollutants worldwide, the beauty industry is increasingly turning to environmentally-friendly, biodegradable solutions. Biobased materials are considered essential for sustainability, and advances in biotechnology offer new ways to improve their effectiveness. 

Among the solutions explored: upcycling, replacing traditional ingredients with sustainable alternatives derived from recycled food industry by-products, while maintaining high product performance standards.

Active Concepts was interested in reusing pineapple crown waste to extract cellulose, transforming this residue into a precursor for a new biopolymer. 

Pineapple generates around 3 billion tonnes of by-products per year, mainly from the crown leaves. Pineapple leaf fiber (PALF) is distinguished from other natural fibers by its high cellulose content, an important element for polymer reinforcement, biodegradable product additives, membrane reinforcement and the development of renewable biomaterials.

The Italian firm's expertise in biofermentation played a crucial role in the delicate elaboration of this active ingredient using a yeast-based cross-linking technology.

According to Active Concepts, AC Pina Colloida, the new biopolymer obtained by this process, improves the skin's protective barrier function, helping to retain moisture and prevent attacks from micro-pollution. By acting on the integrity of the dermo-epidermal junction, it could prevent the visible signs of ageing. In addition, AC Pina Colloida strengthens the structural integrity of hair by preventing the harmful effects of UV irradiation, resulting in healthier hair and demonstrating effective physical and sensory properties that improve overall skin coverage and product appearance.

NYSCC 2024 Suppliers' Day: "Inspire. Innovate. Celebrate.

NYSCC 2024 Suppliers' Day

Renowned for its trend-setting abilities and influence on product development and brand building, will be held the beauty and personal care industry's global forum for ingredients, formulation and product development, NYSCC 2024 Suppliers' Day. This 45th annual New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Suppliers' Day will take place on May 1 and 2 in New York City. According to its organizers, this year's event will be the largest since its inception.

The theme of this year's event: "Inspire. Innovate. Celebrate.

Inspiration will come from all sources to influence innovation in beauty and personal care. The 70-year legacy of the NYSCC chapter will be celebrated, along with all that the industry has created and accomplished.  

NYSCC 2024 Suppliers' Day will feature over 100 hours of scientific and marketing conferences, as well as tailored educational programs. More than 570 international exhibitors will present ingredients, formulas, treatments and advanced scientific testing equipment.  

Dedicated areas - the classic Future Chemists Workshop, the Innovations Theater, the Main Stage and the Indie 360 pavilion with 16 jury-selected brands, including a capsule of Latin brands, in particular - will provide attendees with an enhanced visitor experience. New this year is the Inspiration Zone, featuring innovations from around the world. 

The Technical Poster Showcase will be back, as will the University Alley. 

Three "educational" programs led by NYSCC's Scientific Advisory Board will be offered, on a variety of themes (scalp care, biotechnologies, nutricosmetics).

Partners will host two luncheon conferences on the future of the cosmetics industry. Topics covered: challenges and opportunities in perfumery, and the latest advances in the Chinese beauty industry.

Introduction to cosmetic chemistry and advanced skin science, sustainability, the digital age of beauty, the world of chemistry and the microbiome will also be on the program.

The focus will also be on raising awareness among young people and employment.

In particular, the NYSCC Supplier Day will continue its outreach to students and young professionals. In particular, science and communications influencer Jane Tsui (@janetheChemist) will be the keynote speaker at the Future Chemists Workshop, giving a wide range of students from all over the country a unique real-world laboratory experience on the show floor.  

Photo taken from the event website.

Cargill wins award for its BotaniDesign emollient

BotaniDesign Cargill

The Edison Awards, named after American inventor Thomas Edison, recognize innovative products and entrepreneurs. 

For the second year running, Cargill has won three Edison Awards for innovations in the fields of intelligent transport, social and cultural impact, and skincare and beauty solutions.

In the field of care and beauty, Cargill received the Bronze award for its BotaniDesign 105 product, a plant-based substitute for petrolatum. This 100 % naturally-occurring, plant-based and easily biodegradable solution is, according to Cargill, highly moisturizing and can be included in a range of personal care products.

This innovation, like the other two award-winning products, demonstrates Cargill's ability to draw on more than a century of experience in the food industry to innovate across a wide range of challenges facing its customers and consumers.

All entries were reviewed by the Edison Awards steering committee and an executive jury. The jury was made up of over 2,000 senior executives and academics from the fields of product development, design, engineering, science, marketing and education, as well as past winners.

A stunning collection of four hoods for Binaurale

TNT GROUP - Binaural - amazing caps

The young Binaurale brand offers new, original fragrances. Imagined by a husband-and-wife designer-perfumer duo, its fragrances are created in partnership with Robertet.

TNT Group collaborated with the founders of Binaurale, creating original globe-shaped caps for the brand's bottles. TNT Group's engineers worked from 3D files detailing the desired characteristics of the caps, such as the relief of continental surfaces and the contours of ribs. The initial files, supplied by Binaurale, were converted into the technical files required for industrialization, including tooling and production.

Engineering and innovation contributed to this amazing project. The three challenges were to find the right way to de-mold the caps, to remove the seams caused by the mold, and to create the 3D decoration, on an industrial scale. The collection includes four different fragrances, each with a unique cap that tells a story.

Innovative formulations inspired by the four natural elements

Quimivita - Sensory Bar in-Cosmetics 2024

At the in-Cosmetics Global 2024 event held in Paris from April 16 to 18, Quimivita, a company specializing in custom formulations, food and cosmetic ingredients, industrial and laboratory technologies, as well as veterinary and pharmaceutical applications, took part in the Sensory Bar with four new formulations.

What's special about these formulations is that they are inspired by the natural elements - fire, air, earth and water. The collection, named "Holistic Harmony: Beauty inspired by nature", aims to influence the sensorial aspect of the formulas, but also to evoke the essence of each element in the beauty routine.

The challenge taken up by the company: to demonstrate that it is possible to achieve a rich sensory experience without resorting to synthetic ingredients.

Among the creations presented is a biphasic cleanser for effective cleansing and make-up removal, "as purifying as fire." 

Also on display: a sulfate-free solid shampoo with natural hydrocolloids, whose foamy lather combines the washing experience with the lightness of air.

Quimivita also highlighted a multi-concentrated serum that, like water, hydrates and revitalizes the skin, a formulation distinguished by its suspended spheres, loaded with active ingredients with illuminating, exfoliating, moisturizing and soothing properties. 

The fourth formulation presented by Quimivita is an exfoliant based on upcycling. Made with ingredients of Mediterranean origin, cork and olive, it draws on the charm of the earth for renewed skin.

"Although in-Cosmetics is over, the opportunity to explore these innovative formulations remains accessible by requesting formulation booklets via the contact section on the Quimivita website."says the company.

Aptar Beauty and iD Scent: fruitful synergies

iD Scent - Scentouch

Aptar Beauty, an Aptar Group company and global specialist in dosing, dispensing and protection technologies for drugs and consumer products, has acquired iD Scent in spring 2023. In its sights: its scented paper technology.

Founded in Lyon in 2004, iD Scent has expertise in encapsulating fragrances in paper fibers. A year after its acquisition, Aptar Beauty is delighted with its "promising" results.

iD Scent's expertise enables Aptar Beauty to expand its fragrance sampling offer. The iD Scent and Aptar Beauty fragrance sample meets market expectations. It combines exclusive, innovative technology with infinite customization options, both in shape and finish. It plays on the senses thanks to its perennial olfactory dimension and fragrance fidelity, the possibilities of tactile effects and, of course, the overall visual aesthetic. 

Aptar Beauty offers four formats developed and manufactured in France, all adapted to all fragrance sample distribution channels (press, points of sale, digital marketing, e-sampling).

Scentouch, a patented paper object, takes up the design of the original bottle, revealing a detachable fragrance tester applicator. This sample offers the possibility of reproducing the gesture of opening the cap of a perfume bottle.

Scentest, a double-sided test card decorated on one side and scented on the other, can be customized in any way. Touching it intensifies the fragrance's power.

Scentdow is a card with a window to open, in which the fragrance is encapsulated.

Scentpad is a folded sheet containing a sample of scented paper to be peeled off and applied directly to the skin, using a make-up-inspired gesture.

iD Scent solutions offer a unique olfactory experience, positioning themselves as genuine communication tools. Full service, they are versatile and adaptable to all markets: premium, luxury, niche brands, masstige, etc.

"We're seeing strong interest from brands in iD Scent technology, thanks to its durability, personalization and long-lasting effect. With stability tests to back it up, the fragrance lasts for at least a year! The creativity offered by this sampling solution is limitless. We can produce a wide range of shapes, forms, cut-outs, decorations and finishes.says Saveria Guelfucci, EMEA Marketing Manager Beauty Mini Packaging and Turnkey Solutions.

New markets

In just one year, Aptar Beauty has propelled iD Scent solutions into the international arena by pushing ahead with its industrial development. In addition to its creations for perfume, cosmetics and spirits brands, the group has deployed new resources and a real ambition to serve its customers.

"We want to make iD Scent technology a standard in the world of sampling, which is currently being transformed by new distribution channels such as e-commerce and digital. We also want to support the retail sector in the changes it is facing, and help brands to communicate more effectively, in line with their environmental commitments.adds Benoît Mirandel, Director of Turnkey Solutions by Aptar.

Aptar Beauty dedicates a dedicated sales force to iD Scent innovations. "The opportunities generated by iD Scent solutions are fully relayed by sales teams trained in the subject. We've had very good feedback from our presentations at trade shows and from tests carried out for our customers using their fragrances. We've also won over some major houses in the United States.emphasizes Benoît Mirandel.

Recyclability certification

Aptar intends to innovate while respecting environmental issues. Thanks to Aptar Beauty, iD Scent offers recyclability certificates issued by the independent European organization cyclos-htp for each of its solutions. This label certifies that iD Scent samples are recyclable in the paper stream. 

Two new innovative products are currently being designed. A marketing team is currently developing ideas for complementary ranges. These products will be unveiled shortly!

Photo: Scentouch solution developed for Jean Paul Gaultier (Puig).

Bioinspiration for smooth, moisturized hair

Pine cone on tree

The protective layer of the hair cuticle is an indicator of hair health. When the scales are smooth, moisture is trapped in the hair, which in turn looks healthy, beautiful and vital. On the other hand, if the scales are open and protruding, moisture is lost and the hair looks dull and frizzy. This process is reminiscent of the scales on a pine cone, which open and close according to the weather!

Mibelle Biochemistry has developed PinoPlex, a new, innovative and sustainable hair care ingredient inspired by the structure and reactions of pine cone scales. Derived from upcycling, the active ingredient is derived from pine cones (Pinus sylvestris) which are selected and collected by hand from French forests. To obtain these precious ingredients, we use a gentle, environmentally-friendly, microwave-assisted extraction process.

"PinoPlex is a powerful moisturizer for the hair shaft and can combat dry, damaged hair. It not only penetrates hair, but also retains water by leveling the hair cuticle, making hair smoother and shinier. This bioinspired ingredient prevents split ends and improves the integrity of the hair fiber, making it more resistant to daily stress and breakage. It also promotes the differentiation of keratinocytes in the hair matrix, enabling hair to grow healthier and stronger. PinoPlex is an ideal ingredient for a variety of hair care applications, such as split-end repairers, leave-in repair creams, leave-in overnight moisturizing conditioners and much more."says Mibelle Biochemistry.

Nature's "superpowers" in a bottle

TechnicoFlor - Super Nature

TechnicoFlor, a French perfume composition house, launches an original collection of six fragrances on the theme of biomimicry. These fragrances for six different applications were previewed at in-Cosmetics Global Paris from April 16 to 18, 2024.

Biomimicry means observing nature and drawing inspiration from the way it works to invent new, sustainable technologies. TechnicoFlor's aim is to be in better harmony with the environment and responsible in the long term. A challenge that the company has chosen to take up this year with a "Super Nature" collection, which pays tribute to flora and fauna.

Olfactory illustrations of nature's "superpowers

Perfumers Bérengère Bourgarel, Vincent Ricord, Jérémy Sabater, Félix Deschamps and Romain Keller have created eco-designed* fragrances with the ambition of illustrating the magic of nature. Each of the six fragrances is associated with one of nature's "superpowers".

One of these "superpowers": storing water. Oasis Splash, created by Bérengère Bourgarel, is a fragrance with green, fruity and aquatic notes. "Naturally bursting with water, aloe vera is a succulent plant that adapts very well to arid environments devoid of water. I therefore imagined this Cosmos 100% fragrance of natural origin as a source of hydration, like a veritable oasis in the middle of the desert! An aloe vera juice combined with a cocktail of water fruits, coconut water and cucumber. All boosted by aromatic notes for freshness!"explains Bérengère Bourgarel.

The "superpower" of attraction, another power of nature, is highlighted by Wild Attraction created by Vincent Ricord, a fragrance with floral, fruity and gourmand notes. "In nature, plants and animals give off substances and scents to attract partners and prey, repel predators and attract pollinating insects. So I imagined the irresistible nectar of Buddleia, nicknamed the butterfly tree, which gives off a sweet coconut scent to attract foraging insects: a bouquet of sensual white flowers married with coconut and a touch of honey, dressed in a bewitching musky woody base".says the perfumer.

Jungle Illusion, a creation by Jérémy Sabater, is a composition with fruity, leathery and ferny notes that aims to highlight the "superpower" of nature's illusion. "King of camouflage and adaptation, the chameleon has the ability to naturally modify the color of its pigment cells according to its emotions. I've imagined a note that's as masculine as it is feminine, with its powerful neo-classical fougère structure embellished with gourmand red fruits and powdery notes. Not forgetting an animalic leathery base, reminiscent of wild reptile skin...".says Jérémy Sabater.

A fragrance with woody, floral and marine notes that evokes the "superpower" of mother-of-pearl. "As well as being one of nature's jewels, abalone mother-of-pearl is an extremely hard-wearing shell. Its unique iridescent color comes from the carotenoids present in its structure. The powerful, tenacious note I've created, composed of 90% of ingredients of natural origin according to the ISO16128 standard, is an interpretation of mother-of-pearl with its amber mineral facets on a pink iris floral heart, lulled by marine accords!"says Félix Deschamps, the man behind Wonder Nacre.

An olfactory illustration of the "superpower" of thermoregulation: a composition with floral, green and aromatic notes. "The magnificent Morpho Butterfly is able to regulate its body temperature through photosynthesis. My inspiration came from its incredible thermoregulatory capacity. A true olfactory contrast between warm and fresh notes, this fragrance would have the power to refresh the skin on hot summer days, both fresh with its aromatic-icymarine notes and addictive with its floral-powdery-green and water fruit heart, like a shot of vitaminized freshness!"says Romain Keller of the Polar Sun fragrance.

Finally, the "superpower" of bioluminescence is illustrated by Ultraviolet, a fragrance with green, floral and aromatic notes. "Bioluminescence is an extraordinary phenomenon in marine animals, insects and plants, which naturally produce and emit light. So we imagined a perfume ink that would become visible, like a scented UV tattoo. We created a powdery floral accord, enhanced by luminous green facets of violet leaf and rhubarb, and nuanced at the base by a gourmand woody-moss accord".says Jérémy Sabater and Bérengère Bourgarel, the company's founders.

Multiple applications

An application was associated with each of the six fragrances created: a 3-in-1 oil (face, body and hair) for Oasis Splash; an eau de toilette for Wild Attraction; a body cream for Jungle Illusion; a shampoo for Wonder Nacre; a sun cream for Polar Sun and a tattoo / scented phosphorescent ink for Ultraviolet.

At in-Cosmetics Global, visitors to the show were able to plunge into the heart of a bioluminescent forest, revealing the contours of the Ultraviolet tattoo in a captivating jungle atmosphere!

*Fragrances rated A or B according to Florindex (TechnicoFlor tool for measuring the environmental and social impact of fragrance formulas at every stage of the development cycle).

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