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Airless technology combined with a single-material design

Ultra Solo - Quadpack

The latest addition to the airless range from international beauty packaging manufacturer and supplier Quadpack, the Ultra Solo solution combines airless technology with a single-material design. 

Available in 15 ml, 30 ml and 50 ml capacities, this easy top-fill product features a single-wall packaging for a minimalist yet neat design. Thanks to its polyethylene (PE) composition, Ultra Solo's slim silhouette can feature a high-gloss finish, and the wide variety of decoration options makes the solution adaptable to any brand identity.  

With a metal-free pump, the entire packaging solution is made from a single recyclable material: all Ultra Solo components - cap, pump motor, actuator and bottle - are made from PE. 

The recyclability of 100 % of the Ultra Solo solution is certified by the cyclos-HTP* institute, a European leader. "We aim to achieve greater recyclability in our product development, explains Alejandra Isern, Category Specialist at Quadpack. And nothing is easier to recycle than single-material packaging. Ultra Solo is also our first PE airless solution, and expands the range of materials in our airless portfolio."

Airless technology ensures an exact dosage of 0.15 cc per application, regardless of the pressure applied. The hermetically sealed environment protects the formula from external contamination and reduces the need for artificial preservatives. The pump system also allows the consumer to use it from any angle.

As with all products in the Quadpack catalog, an environmental report is available for Ultra Solo, incorporating life-cycle analysis and other impact data to help brands achieve their sustainability objectives.

*Certificate valid in Germany, Ireland and the Netherlands.

Gericke: 130 years of bulk handling solutions

GFS Gericke

Gericke, the Swiss manufacturer of systems and machines for bulk solids processing, celebrates its 130th anniversary. The small company founded in 1894 in a modest premises in Zurich has grown into a company of international stature. Today, the Group has 10 subsidiaries worldwide. 

Gericke started out in the grinding industry, before extending its know-how to various powder processing technologies found in the food, chemical, building materials, pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries.

site-industries-cosmetiques An auto draft of a man with a beard in black and white.

In 1894, Walter H. Gericke founded the "W. Gericke" company in Zurich. Gericke" company in Zurich. At the time, grain mills were among the pioneers in the use of automated conveying systems for bulk goods. But other basic technologies such as dosing, grinding, mixing, separating and filling were also available.

From 1924 onwards, Otto H. Gericke and Walter H. Gericke, the two sons of the company's founder, took over. Gericke began to expand, and the brothers acquired a new site near Zurich's main railway station. Together with engineer O. Soder, Gericke develops a patented innovation: a roller mill with a horizontal grinding wheel. This innovation considerably improved flour production in the 1930s and 1940s.

In 1954, Otto H. Gericke's sons Willi and Hermann Gericke joined the company in the third generation. In 1957, the company expanded its production capacity by building a new factory in Regensdorf, near Zurich. The site was significantly expanded in autumn 2023 with the construction of an additional production hall.

International growth

Gericke's international growth began in the 1960s with subsidiaries in Europe, notably in Germany, France, the Netherlands and Great Britain. From the 1990s onwards, Gericke set up subsidiaries in Singapore, Thailand, Indonesia, Malaysia, China, Brazil and the USA. Gericke equipment is still manufactured exclusively in the Group's factories in Western Europe, and all Group subsidiaries, which handle sales, validation testing, project management, engineering, site supervision, commissioning, after-sales service and spare parts distribution, are staffed by local teams of technicians and engineers.

Markus H. Gericke joined the company in 1993 as Managing Director of Gericke France, and today represents the fourth generation to lead the Group. Gericke manufactures all key components in its own production facilities, including equipment for mixing, pneumatic conveying, dosing, big-bag handling, screening and deagglomeration. The company also develops its own control systems, which enable easy integration into higher-level automation systems.

Since 2010, in parallel with its traditional activities, Gericke has been involved in the development and implementation of continuous processes for the production of solids in the pharmaceutical industry. The GFS Formulation Skid is now used worldwide for this pioneering technology.

Tribune "Bidding for 2024: a challenge or a daring move?

Visual - professional interview

By Philippe Sibour, founder of Alliance Consulting Group

In these times dictated by various forced slowdowns, many executives, experts or managers are asking us: is this the right time to rethink my career according to a certain number of professional and personal objectives? What will be the next components? vs. the economic situation, compounded by a structural crisis of confidence? And consequently, how can I activate my network in such a context, and what resources can I draw on?

The times we're living through are a good time to take stock of the situation beforehand, to think in depth about how you want your new direction to evolve, to identify your obstacles and supports, to take stock of your desires and values, and to think about your future life project, pure and simple! 

There's nothing to stop you reworking your CV according to redefined priorities, always bearing in mind the two key success factors that characterize it: how do I stand out from other potential candidates, and above all, what added value am I able to offer within my area of expertise or preference? Should I opt for a radical change of universe, or is it simply a question of paradigm? Are my New Year's resolutions on well-being, for example, tenable? What impact will this have on my personal and/or family life, and my own equilibrium?

Based on an examination of your current situation and the meaning you wish to give to your life, which deals with situational elements as much as soft skillsIn this way, everyone can keep in mind what motivates them, what makes sense to them, and gain from "daring" a real brainstorming session in which the impossible, or even the improbable, is not forbidden.

Is it possible to reorient your career path? Is further training necessary? A solid career plan in no way prevents you from developing the agility to seize new opportunities and remain competitive.

Understanding the essence of your project will also help you to get to know yourself better, while building your confidence.

Companies, particularly in the cosmetics industry, are looking for candidates who are available as quickly as possible and immediately operational in this sector of activity... Those who have previously carried out this "work" of introspection with objectivity and courage, will therefore be in a better position to embrace the challenges that will face them in 2024...

Ph. Sibour

Photo: © Sue Styles / Pixabay

A new lily of the valley molecule available to perfumers

Lily of the valley flowers.

Givaudan, a global specialist in perfumery and beauty, is promoting Nympheal, a molecule with a white floral profile. According to the Swiss manufacturer, "Nympheal is a unique ingredient that combines the best olfactory and technical qualities of other lily of the valley molecules."

At the forefront of lily of the valley aldehydes, Givaudan makes this ingredient available to all perfumers. "Fresh and opulent with a hint of lime blossom, adding volume, floral creaminess and excellent diffusion to fragrant compositions."

Offering, according to Givaudan, a blooming effect in aqueous applications, its versatility will enable perfumers to create various cross-category applications, and it can be used in all olfactory directions. This opens up a whole new world of possibilities for perfume designers.

"It's a pleasure to share this molecule with customers, as it opens up new possibilities for creating memorable, long-lasting fragrances. Nympheal is the result of a collaboration between Givaudan's researchers, perfumers and regulatory experts, a testament to their dedication and expertise in developing ingredients that make a difference to fragrance compounds."says Paul-Erwan Camenen, Head of Fragrance Ingredients at Givaudan.

In line with the company's sustainability objectives, Nympheal is a biodegradable molecule that follows OECD guidelines. It has been developed according to the principles of green chemistry, and in line with a Safe by Design approach. Givaudan is committed to continuously improving its range of fragrance ingredients by incorporating biodegradable materials. 

Photo: © Mareefe / Pixabay

L'Oréal Groupe launches an ingredient to treat localized pigmentation disorders

Photo of a young woman

Melanin levels increase after sun exposure to protect skin cells. Many factors can disrupt the normal production of this natural pigment, leading to localized pigmentation disorders such as brown spots and post-inflammatory marks. According to an epidemiological study, half the population has at least one pigmentation problem*.

Backed by 35 years of research dedicated to pigmentation, L'Oréal Groupe has presented Melasyl, a molecule designed to treat these disorders, at the American Academy of Dermatology's annual meeting, being held in San Diego from March 8 to 12, 2024. This multi-patented ingredient is the culmination of rigorous testing in over 121 scientific studies, says the group.

L'Oréal formulations containing this new patented ingredient treat pigmentation marks and are said to improve their appearance, whatever the skin phototype. Cosmetic products formulated with Melasyl are said to deliver a more even, natural-looking complexion, even on the most persistent marks. 

The fruit of 18 years' research, Melasyl is now available in La Roche-Posay's Mela B3 range, including MelaB3 serum and MelaB3 SPF30 skincare. L'Oréal Paris and Vichy will be launching other products with this ingredient.

"Half of the people surveyed reported pigmentation problems, and a third of these had a negative impact on their quality of life, proving that the impact of visible spots or post-acne marks is not just cutaneous, said Anne Colonna, International Director of Advanced Research at L'Oréal Groupe. Melasyl is a unique ingredient with proven efficacy in the treatment of localized pigmentation disorders, which, thanks to its accessibility to as many people as possible, will help people regain their self-confidence."

Melasyl was presented for the first time at the World Congress of Dermatology 2023 in Singapore, alongside the world's first epidemiological study of pigmentation disorders. 

* Epidemiological study carried out on 48,000 people in 34 countries by La Roche-Posay; selected as a major news item at the World Congress of Dermatology in Singapore on July 5, 2023.

Photo: © Engin Akyurt / Pixabay

Less is more at Printemps Haussman

less is more

The young company less is more offers a range of shampoos, shower gels and hand washes in powder form, which can be mixed with water to create a liquid cleanser. 

The brand has been invited by Dada Market - the new showcase for committed brands - to exhibit on the first floor of Printemps Haussmann from March 4 to 17, 2024, in the Espace Joli cadeau.

Less is more is an opportunity to promote its virtuous consumption model. The brand is committed to creating high-quality products with the least possible negative impact on the planet. The multi-sensorial formulas of its products are composed of over 99 % of ingredients of natural origin, and contain fragrances rich in high-quality natural essential oils.

The powder is packaged in 25g recyclable paper sachets for 250ml of cleansing care (approx. 100 uses). The products are refillable, and can be used in bottles made from recycled PET 100% offered by less is more, or in their own containers.

French Cosmetics, a collective brand to stand out at international trade shows

French Cosmetic 2024

After two successful years in 2022 and 2023, Cosmed's "French Cosmetics" collective pavilion at the Beauty World Middle East trade show in Dubai has a new graphic identity.

The stated aim of Cosmed, the trade association for small, medium and large companies in the cosmetics industry, is to "perform" internationally. 

This new symbol will carry the colors of French cosmetics to the Beauty World Middle East trade show, to be held in Dubai from October 28 to 30, 2024.

Some 150 m² will be allocated to French brands in this pavilion.

A must-attend event for forging new partnerships with players in the cosmetics market in the Near and Middle East, Turkey, Egypt, Israel, Africa, India and Iran, Beauty World Middle East attracts more and more exhibitors (1,700 from 57 different countries and 27 international pavilions) and visitors (65,000, +25%) every year.

Buoyed by the quality image of "made in France", a real asset, France is the leading supplier of cosmetics to these countries in the Near and Middle East, buoyed by strong growth in demand in the United Arab Emirates (+14.51TP6Q). 

With this new identity, French VSEs and SMEs will be able to count on Cosmed's support in promoting French cosmetics at Beauty World Middle East.

Cosmed will also be offering tailor-made support, including space tailored to the needs of SMEs, transport logistics to and from the show, targeted regulatory webinars by country to help prepare for the show, and a digital package to optimize contacts.

Superga Beauty, Gold medal EcoVadis 2024

Superga Beauty - EcoVadis Gold

With an overall score of 72 out of 100, Superga Beauty, the French industrial partner of beauty brands, ranks among the world's top 5 % companies in terms of eco-responsibility. For its packaging sector, the group is even in the top 3 %. 

Owner of seven industrial sites based in France, Superga Beauty had already received this distinction in 2021 for the promotion and full service division of its Paris-based entity. Now, in 2024, the best practices of the entire group have been recognized and validated by the independent EcoVadis methodology.

This global approach is in line with Superga Beauty's broader aim of preparing for the future by facilitating the integration of new sites, and making it easier to obtain additional labels and certifications.

An ambitious CSR program

"The Gold medal represents a significant step forward for Superga Beauty. It is a real recognition of our daily drive to improve and structure ourselves, throughout our Group. It encourages us to continue our efforts and to not as an end in itself, but as a further step in the process. our journey towards an ever more virtuous industry".said Leslie Bréau Meniger, President of Superga Beauty.

The annual EcoVadis rating received in January 2024 applies until January 2025. Numerous projects are underway to further optimize the score, as Superga Beauty is aiming for the Platinium+ medal.

The company is also aiming to improve its B rating under the CDP (Carbon Disclosure Project), and to sign up to SBTi, an independent global initiative to reduce greenhouse gas emissions.

Fedrigoni Mistral: a wind of luxury blows over high-end papers

Fedrigoni-Mistral

Ideal for premium publishing, creative communication and luxury packaging, the new Fedrigoni Mistral range completes Fedrigoni's range of special embossed papers.

Classic elegance and original textures, the Mistral range enriches Fedrigoni's range of embossed papers with its timeless design. 

This new collection of special natural and coated papers is, according to the manufacturer, ideal for all high-end publishing projects (books, catalogs, covers), communication media (invitations and brochures, greeting cards, labels) and luxury packaging. 

Available in a wide range of weights (from 100 to 400 g/m2), this new collection comes in two types of pattern: an elegant texture for Mistral Tradition, and geometric designs for Mistral Design. Tones range from the glossy ivory of Ivory to the natural white - without optical brighteners - of Natural, to the timeless Premium White.

Mistral Stucco Tradition, a coated version that completes the range, provides superior sharpness and brightness in the print. 

"Mistral, combining tradition and innovation, brings a touch of luxury to the world of packaging. The breadth of the range enables us to meet the most varied creative needs, adding a refined and original touch to each project. Mistral creates a special tactile and visual experience, says Céline Bertuzzi, Product Marketing Manager for Fedrigoni Special Papers. 

Mistral is one of the creative communication solutions offered by Fedrigoni Special Papers, the new name of the division dedicated to speciality papers. The new division comprises three segments: luxury packaging, publishing & creative communication and technical solutions, and a tagline: " Shaping Ideas" .

Esxence: perfume takes center stage in Milan

Esxence

Esxence - The Art Perfumery Event, the world's leading artistic perfumery event, opened its fourteenth edition on the 6th for four days in Milan. The event features a selection of 360 brands from 30 different countries, including newcomers such as Australia, Korea, the Netherlands and Estonia, as well as brands from Italy, France, Spain, Greece, Austria, the Czech Republic, Sweden, Switzerland, the United States, the United Kingdom, the United Arab Emirates, Japan, Singapore and Hong Kong, to name but a few.

The success of Esxence confirms the timeless interest in the beauty sector, which finds in Milan an important benchmark exhibition capable of attracting national and international operators, as well as thousands of visitors (a total of 10,000 at the last edition)," says Barbara Mazzali, Councillor for Tourism, Fashion and Territorial Marketing for the Lombardy Region. Artistic perfumery is part of the fashion and luxury sector, which is the pride of our region and, thanks to Esxence, a source of inspiration for many industry professionals. Fragrances bearing the signatures of numerous Made in Italy designers or expressing the essence of a place are frequently featured in the famous shopping streets. Our art cities and lakes are often represented by perfumes that inspire dreams and make a valuable contribution to our tourist image. Generally speaking, Lombardy is a very important production site for cosmetics. In fact, more than half of all Italian cosmetics companies are headquartered in our region, between Milan, Bergamo, Crema and Monza Brianza. These regions account for 2 % of the world's cosmetics production.

"Esxence represents and enhances a sector of excellence and an important Made in Italy supply chain, which generates employment, promotes innovation and enjoys a solid international reputation.says Alessia Cappello, Councillor for Labor and Economic Development for the Municipality of Milan. Hosting an event like Esxence is an honor for our city and confirms Milan's mission to be an important capital for artistic perfumes and for the world of beauty in general."

The public - made up of distributors, buyers, professionals and perfume enthusiasts - has the opportunity to discover leading, emerging and innovative brands, 70 % of which come from abroad; this trend confirms that Esxence is a valuable platform for making a name for oneself on the international scene.

The concept guiding visitors as they discover this new edition is "metamorphosis". Perfume is conceived as a natural metamorphosis and evolution, from the raw materials that make up the fragrance and change over time, to the sense of smell that gives the opportunity to appreciate new sensory emotions, while everything around us is in perpetual change. The metamorphosis also reflects the contemporary consumer's search for new values, where respect for people, the environment and nature has become essential. Esxence aims to adopt sustainable thinking in its future journey, a new journey to embrace conscious choices and move forward through changing times.

The best of world perfumery 

Esxence is a place of excellence, introspection, networking and business. Worldwide, the data confirms, according to the organizers, that artistic perfumery's share of the global beauty market is close to 2 %, but its impact on alcohol-based perfumery is steadily increasing, reaching points that average around 10 % in many countries. In the Italian market, it has reached significant levels: in 2023, the volume of artistic perfumery sales was estimated at over 310 million euros, corresponding to 2.7 % of Italian beauty business in the domestic market, over 14 % of perfumery channel sales and just over 30 % of perfume sales. Niche perfumery continues its rapid transformation.

"Esxence celebrates the essence of high-quality olfactory culture and serves as a stage for the most promising brands, raising olfactory awareness and creating a truly new olfactory lexicon. We strive to enhance the entire industry by shaping new trends, offering the best of global artistic perfumery."says Maurizio Cavezzali, co-founder of Esxence and CEO of Equipe Exibit.

"Going forward, we aim to consolidate the process of international expansion in strategic countries, which began in 2022 thanks to collaboration with the ITA - the Italian Trade Agency. At the fourteenth edition of Esxence, 39 foreign operators from 14 countries (Brazil, Ethiopia, France, Japan, India, Kenya, Korea, Mexico, Morocco, Nigeria, Northern Macedonia, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, United Arab Emirates and United States) will be present. Milan, which in recent years has become the leading capital of artistic perfumery, is the heart of the event. The city also highlights the entire national cosmetics and perfumery supply chain through Milano Beauty Week, an initiative that Esxence is delighted to support with Cosmoprof."adds Maurizio Cavezzali.

"Since its first edition in 2009, Esxence has become a distinctive international reference in the perfumery sector and has helped to improve the consumption of quality fragrances. Many new companies and activities have been created thanks to the international connections, and we are proud to have provided these opportunities," sayseclare Silvio Levi, co-founder of Esxence and founder of Essencional. Esxence is a bridge between cultures, histories and creativity: after the fruitful and well-established collaboration with the American Art&Olfaction Awards, we are proud to welcome the Minoritè Chinese Artistic Perfumery Awards. With the Centre d'études Essencional, we keep a close eye on the sector throughout the year, collaborating with the Team to coordinate workshops and conferences that enrich our editions. These sessions involve analysis and comparison, with opinion leaders and key industry figures actively involved in shaping and influencing the future of this dynamic sector."

Experience Lab

The Allianz MiCo, Milano Convention Centre where the event takes place, also hosts Experience Lab, an event dedicated to research and excellence in beauty, bringing together brands and professionals from the international perfumery and beauty sector.

A program of conferences

Esxence strives to promote olfactory culture by presenting an attractive program of meetings, workshops and sensory journeys accessible to professionals and enthusiasts alike. These events, led by international experts, academics and researchers, feature personalities such as Annick Le Guérér, Calice Becker, Martina Bianchini and Isabelle Chazot.

The initiatives address contemporary topics, including the perception and dissemination of fragrance research in oriental markets, with a particular focus on the Middle East and China, artificial intelligence, sustainable development, olfactory education, young emerging perfumers and sophisticated raw materials. One of the conferences, supported by the ITA, is devoted to trends and prospects in the niche perfume market in America.

Active partners

CFF, Creative Flavours & Fragrances, is participating with its own experiential workshop aimed at exploring olfactory accords and unique raw materials.

For the entire event, Esxence is collaborating with key partners including: Osmothèque (the International Perfume Conservatory), Mouillettes & Co, (specialized in olfaction training and consulting), Accademia del Profumo (who will organize the exhibition Il Profumo Del Cinema @ Esxence 2024 highlighting the links between perfume and cinema) and Milano Beauty Week, the week of beauty and wellness culture.

ITA - the Italian Trade Agency - and Business France, the French national agency dedicated to promoting the internationalization of the French economy, are also supporting the event.

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