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L'Oréal acquires Danish company Lactobio, specialist in precision probiotics

Lactobio - L'Oréal

L'Oréal has announced the completion of the acquisition of Lactobio, a leading Danish company specializing in probiotics and microbiome research. Founded in 2017 and based in Copenhagen, this company enables L'Oréal to reinforce two decades of advanced research on the microbiome, deepen its knowledge of microorganisms living on the skin's surface and consolidate its leadership in this field. With Lactobio's expertise in the microbiome and its substantial portfolio of patents, new prospects for the development of safe and effective live bacteria-based cosmetic solutions are now possible.

Søren Kjærulff, Ph.D. and Charlotte Vedel, Ph.D., the founders of Lactobio, have developed a unique and exclusive platform for exploring the microbiome, as well as a screening method for selecting the most effective and safest strains. These precision probiotics, created from a vast biobank of lactobacillus bacteria, will be used to develop formulations for topical applications based on living bacteria. The ambition is to offer skin and hair benefits inspired by nature.

Anne Colonna, International General Manager of Advanced Research at L'Oréal, said: "The integration of Lactobio into our advanced research is highly complementary to L'Oréal's scientific and technological advances. The group's expertise combined with Lactobio's optimal formulations, based on living ingredients, will considerably strengthen and accelerate our microbiome research dedicated to beauty. By joining forces, we aim to develop a new generation of cosmetics that will incorporate cutting-edge innovations to achieve precision probiotic and postbiotic products with unprecedented levels of performance."

Søren Kjærulff, founder and scientific director of Lactobio, added: "Denmark has a long history of innovation in living microorganisms applied to food, agriculture and health, and it was against this backdrop that we came up with the idea of creating Lactobio. I'm incredibly proud of what our team has achieved, and excited about what the future holds for us within the L'Oréal group, where together we can apply microbiome research to new areas of cosmetic innovation serving women and men around the world."

Cosmetotest 2024 will take place on May 29 and 30, 2024 at ENS-Lyon.

Cosmetotest 2024

Organized by Skinobs and Cosmet'in Lyon, the Cosmetotest symposium, dedicated to scientific and technological advances in preclinical and clinical evaluation, enables cosmeticians from all over the world to listen to academic and applied conferences and interact with participants, meet testing partners, exhibitors, CROs and instrumentation manufacturers, and take part in equipment demonstrations.

Its second edition took place from May 24 to 26, 2023. Some 230 participants, 52 speakers and 30 exhibitors contributed to its success. 

Cosmetotest is unanimously recognized by specialists in the profession for its quality and excellent scientific standards, as well as for being a convivial and professional forum for exchange. In 2023, an exceptional third day has been added in honor of the 20th anniversary of SF2iC, the French-speaking skin imaging and engineering society chaired by Pr Hassan Zahouani.

"In practical terms, we're delighted that in 2024 we'll be returning to the École nationale supérieure de Gerland and its beautiful auditorium and meeting space, and we'll be returning to a two-day format. What's interesting is that the three themes for each of the two days of the symposium are renewed each year, to offer an up-to-date and varied overview".says Anne Charpentier, CEO of Skinobs.

A program accredited by Cosmetic Valley to contribute to the development of Mahoran cosmetopoeia

Cosmetic Valley - Mayotte

Accompanied by the Managing Director of Cosmetic Valley, the French Minister for Overseas France, Philippe Vigier, made official on November 29, 2023 the state funding of the Mayotte integrated innovation cluster (Piom - France 2030). This program, accredited by Cosmetic Valley, will contribute, among other things, to the development of cosmetopoeia in Mayotte.

Initiated in 2020 by the Criobe (UAR3278 - EPHE-PSL-CNRS-UPVD) with the support of the Mayotte department, the Mayotte Integrated Innovation Cluster (PI2M) is set to accelerate its development with the announcement of €1.5 million in state funding as part of the France 2030 program, centralized by the Mayotte Development and Innovation Agency (Adim). 

The fruit of a public-private partnership involving the Criobe, via the University of Perpignan (UPVD), companies in the perfume and cosmetics sector, and Cosmetic Valley in mainland France, the PI2M aims to develop knowledge of Mauritian cosmetopoeia and encourage the emergence of sustainable industries. 

Numerous initiatives have already been launched around vanilla and ylang ylang. Other resources of interest for cosmetics are currently being studied through research projects. The funding granted by France 2030 will enable us to reinforce the equipment available at the Pôle d'Excellence Rurale for the extraction and characterization of ingredients of interest. It will also enable the implementation of research and development programs on local terrestrial and marine biodiversity, to support the development of these industries.

Christophe Masson said: "Cosmetopoeia represents a tremendous opportunity for development and outreach in the French overseas territories. I'm delighted by the collective mobilization of the Maoran players in the PI2M project, and the positive energy it has generated. By developing knowledge of local cosmetopoeia and speeding up the establishment of sustainable industries with "made in France" quality and standards, the department will be able to accelerate its growth and strengthen its international appeal."

Philippe Vigier said: "I'm delighted to have been able to discover, alongside Cosmetic Valley Managing Director Christophe Masson, the great potential of medicinal and aromatic plants and the blue economy. Here in Mayotte, the cosmetopoeia represents immense potential for economic development, value creation, job creation, training and innovation. This project is a perfect illustration of the attractiveness of the French overseas territories and France's commitment to sustainable innovation.

Cosmetopoeia is to cosmetics what pharmacopoeia is to pharmacy

Cosmetopoeia is an inventory of natural resources and their traditional uses for the care and well-being of skin and hair. A shared history that unites people and their environment.

Cosmetic Valley is convinced that cosmetopoeia represents a natural and cultural heritage for the men and women of every region of the world, which needs to be identified, studied and preserved as a lever for safeguarding biodiversity, raising public awareness and promoting sustainable economic development.

"Our mission is to make every country and every region aware of the need to set up collective dynamics around the Cosmetopoeia. With the support of the French cosmetics industry, we are combating the erosion of oral traditions, supporting research and education programs, and backing local initiatives. In this way, we contribute to the preservation of biodiversity linked to traditional cosmetic uses".says Cosmetic Valley.

Photo
From left to right: Thierry Suquet, Prefect of Mayotte; Christophe Masson, CEO of Cosmetic Valley; Rosette Vitta, President of Adim, Ben Issa Ousseni, President of the Mayotte Departmental Council; Philippe Vigier, Minister for Overseas France; Oumaynou Daroueche, doctoral student on Moroccan cosmetopoeia; Fahoullia Mohamadi, delegate for research and innovation at the Mayotte education authority.

EA Pharma continues its international expansion with the acquisition of Groupe W and announces the creation of Olyos Group

site-industries-cosmetiques An international acquisition by EA Pharma featuring a group of bottles gracefully positioned next to a picturesque waterfall.

Expert in nutrition & natural health, EA Pharma announces the acquisition of W Group, a specialist in dietary supplements in the United States, creating the global Olyos Group structure. This marks the start of a new phase in the Group's international development, as it enters the world's #1 market for dietary supplements.

Since 1948, when the group's main brand Laboratoire des Granions was created, EA Pharma has been offering natural health solutions for the well-being of all, including medicines, food supplements, medical devices and cosmetics. According to the company, with the strongest growth (+ 32%) of the top 10 food supplement laboratories in France in pharmacies and parapharmacies over 20232 EA Pharma is a market leader in oligotherapy, collagen, sports nutrition and dietary supplements for muscle and joint comfort.

As of 2020, the French laboratory is initiating an in-depth transformation, focusing on three strategic axes: strengthening partnerships with pharmacists, based on the training of pharmacy teams and the visibility of its brands in pharmacies; an ambitious innovation policy aimed at strengthening its existing ranges and penetrating new market segments (nutricosmetics, children, vitality & immunity); and the development of e-commerce in Europe and China. In addition, three business acquisitions have strengthened these two verticals (pharmacies and e-commerce): Labcatal (France) in 2020, Drasanvi (Spain) in 2021 and Stardea (Italy) in 2022.

Today, EA Pharma is announcing the acquisition of W Group, a specialist in dietary supplements founded in the United States in 2020, and the creation of a global structure, called Olyos, bringing together the four international companies (EA Pharma, Drasanvi, Stardea and W Group).

"We are delighted with this acquisition, which opens up new prospects for us in the US market by continuing to develop the W Group brands but also by launching some of our historic brands in this market."says CEO Thierry Verne.

After an initial phase of consolidation at European level in three of the four largest markets for dietary supplements in the European Union (Italy, France, Spain), and a second phase of international expansion characterized by strong growth in South America and China, the Olyos Group naturally turned its attention to the United States, the world's leading market for dietary supplements, "with an estimated size of 50 billion $, a significant proportion of which is via e-commerce, facilitating an accelerated time-to-market".says assistant general manager Jonathan Bienfait.

More than ten Granions references have already been made available to consumers in the United States, thanks in particular to the expertise of the W teams in e-commerce. This agility is in line with the Olyos Group's credo: We are committed to "pooling and synergies upstream, for purchasing and production (where economies of scale are achieved), and agility downstream, to meet the expectations of our customers, pharmacists&". "explains Thierry Verne. "The Olyos Group develops innovative products based on high-quality active ingredients, plants, minerals, vitamins and amino acids, then markets them worldwide under brands that make sense and resonate with consumers in every country. "adds the CEO.

U'Cosmetics: 15th edition focusing on cosmetics and the marine environment

U'Cosmetics 2024

"Cosmetics & the marine environment: let's innovate above and below the surface" will be the theme of the 15th edition of U'Cosmetics organized by the Université catholique de l'Ouest (UCO) Bretagne Nord, on March 21, 2024 in Guingamp.

"Our University is a real center of expertise in cosmetics, offering a curriculum geared towards the professional world. It was with this in mind that UCO Bretagne Nord, a true pioneer, created the first student competition and professional symposium on cosmetic innovation 15 years ago.say the organizers.

U'Cosmetics brings together major players from industry, academia and the international institutional world to make progress on a theme that changes every year. The aim is to develop a collective innovation dynamic within the cosmetics industry.

The 15th edition of U'Cosmetics invites you to explore and discover innovations and trends linked to the marine environment, to meet consumer needs and draw inspiration from the sea to create new skin and body care products. Seaweed waters, texturizers and active ingredients derived from marine biotechnologies have demonstrated their benefits and virtues in moisturizing, protecting and regenerating the skin; the bio-compatibility between marine organisms and the epidermis having been recognized for several decades...

Two events in one day

The U'Cosmetics 2024 trade show will provide an opportunity to discover all facets of cosmetics related to the marine environment. Various themes will be addressed through conferences on marine cosmetics, a presentation of a method for assessing the ecotoxicology of cosmetic products on corals, the sea as a source of inspiration, multiple sourcing and the impact on the marine environment.

The U'Cosmetics competition is the only student cosmetics formulation and innovation competition in France. All students in the cosmetics field, from Bac+3 to Bac+5, can take part. In 2024, teams of one to five students will have to innovate on the theme of the event.

They can compete in one of two categories:

- Formulation Innovation category: this category is for projects presenting a finished product that complies with European regulations on cosmetic products, and which must highlight at least one innovation related to the theme of "cosmetics and the marine environment".Only formulated products can compete in this category. The jury will pay particular attention to the steps taken to formulate the product, and to how innovative the product is (formulation, choice of raw materials, technical issues, process, etc.).

- Innovative Concept Category: This category is intended for projects presenting an innovative concept in line with the event's theme. The jury will pay particular attention to the originality of the concept presented, as well as to the marketing approach, the market study, the promotion of the innovative character, the brand universe, etc. To compete in this category, it is not necessary to present a finished, formulated product. However, for the pre-selection stage, it is possible to provide any element that may help to present the concept (mock-up, prototype, etc.).

On March 21, 2024, the 10 shortlisted teams will present their projects to the jury, professionals and students in attendance. The teams with the most innovative projects will be awarded four prizes:

  • 1st prize for formulation innovation
  • 2nd prize for formulation innovation
  • Innovative concept award
  • Philippe Collas Special Prize (Internet users' favorite)

Key competition dates

- October 2023: Registration opens

- December 10, 2023: Deadline for receipt of individual declarations of commitment and registration forms

- January 21, 2024: Deadline for receipt of application documents in digital format (teaser video, technical files and summary sheets).

- February 2, 2024: Deadline for receipt of application documents (technical files, summary sheets) and samples/prototypes by post.

- Mid-February 2024: Pre-selection jury

- February 27, 2024: Deadline for PowerPoint presentations

- March 21, 2024: Competition final - presentation of finalist projects and prize-giving ceremony

Lucibel unveils OVE Mini, a nomadic light therapy device

OVE Mini - Lucibel

Lucibel, a player in the field of light technologies, presents OVE Mini, a new cosmetic light device in a small, handy and elegant format. OVE Mini completes the OVE collection and, thanks to its freedom of use, ushers in a new stage in skin care and well-being through photobiomodulation.

The OVE Mini, equipped with 10 light sources, concentrates all Lucibel's expertise on LED light. This smartphone-sized design object can treat all areas of the body with agility, targeting them as needed.

The signature of Lucibel's cosmetic expertise, red LED light has a holistic action on three zones, each corresponding to three types of dedicated care, in order to :

  • revitalize the scalp, increase hair density and prevent hair loss,
  • sublimate the body by reducing the depth of stretch marks and the volume of cellulite,
  • smoothes the face with an energizing action that improves dermal firmness and elasticity, reduces wrinkle hollows and regulates excess sebum.

The OVE Mini's performance is the result of both scientific and technical expertise. In designing this technological jewel, Lucibel has jointly mobilized its R&D teams and partner doctors to guarantee optimized efficacy that respects every skin type. Its portable format makes it an everyday product, an extension of the OVE beauty mask and the light-based skincare protocols devised by Lucibel.

Michèle Pelletier, a dermatologist specializing in photobiomodulation and Lucibel's scientific advisor for the past 10 years, said: "The design of the OVE Mini follows in the wake of numerous scientific studies confirming the effectiveness of red light treatments over the past 30 years. The benefits obtained following repeated exposure to the light emitted by OVE Mini have been clinically demonstrated and are at the cutting edge of 'ever-innovative' photobiomodulation efficacy."

Frédéric Granotier, founder and CEO of Lucibel, added: "The design of the OVE Mini is part of Lucibel's drive to expand through innovation in its cosmetics vertical. This device focuses all Lucibel's expertise on red light. With OVE Mini, we're bringing photobiomodulation within everyone's reach, with the ambition of writing a new page for light-based cosmetics in the service of our customers' beauty."

A new manipulator for palletizing and depalletizing bags of all kinds

Dalmec-Partner PSC Bags

With a multi-sector target market (agri-food, cosmetics, chemicals, pharmaceuticals, packaging, etc.) requiring industrial handling, Dalmec markets a new standard Partner manipulator type PSC, designed and developed in column-mounted execution, for palletizing and depalletizing bags of all types, containers, weights and materials (fabric, plastic, paper, etc.). 

With a maximum force of 50 kg, a maximum radius of action of 2900 mm, and a vertical travel of 2000 mm, the Partner PSC is the ideal equipment for handling bags at all speeds, even in workshops with limited space. A stainless steel version has also been developed to meet the handling needs of "clean" industries (e.g.: food processing, cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, etc.).

Equipped with a brand-new self-regulating electric vacuum pump system and a suction cup gripper adapted to the application, the tool features low-profile controls to facilitate all types of maneuvering. 

This new equipment provides assistance in bag handling by both reproducing operators' usual movements, facilitating employees' work and eliminating the weight of the load, physical effort and therefore the risk of RSI. Handling is carried out even when cantilevered, under optimum ergonomic and safetý conditions, with complete ease and no effort at all.

Thus, ensuring high maneuverability of movements, physical effort and RSI risks are annihilated with completely improved working conditions, ultimately offering a remarkable gain in productivity for the operator. This new integration of vacuum provides extraordinary ergonomic advantages for bag handling in working environments with low ceilings, enabling the operator to use the manipulator freely in the workspace. 

In addition to optimized ergonomics, the new Partner PSC manipulator has been designed to offer operators greater comfort, productivity and safety, whatever their field of activity, thus consolidating Dalmec's reputation for the design and production of anti-TMS multi-sector industrial handling solutions.

Green technology for Vidya Europe

Vidya Europe

Vidya Europe, the French subsidiary of the international Vidya Herbs group, has inaugurated a new industrial unit dedicated to the manufacture of innovative, organic plant extracts using eco-friendly CO2 supercritical.

The Indian Vidya Herbs group and its subsidiaries are major players in the manufacture and distribution of plant extracts, and one of the pioneers of organic extracts. The group specializes in the development, manufacture and distribution of plant extracts and ingredients for the nutraceutical, food, animal nutrition/petfood and cosmetics industries. 

To reinforce its development, Vidya Europe, its French subsidiary, has acquired an innovative production facility based on supercritical fluid extraction technology. Thanks to the support of the France Relance scheme, a brand-new 1400 m2 has emerged from the ground. 

Located in the Eure-et-Loir region of France, the new plant is set in a bucolic setting. It incorporates CO2 5, 25 and 3×400 liter supercritical units, capable of operating at pressures up to 1000 bar. Equipped with all related accessories, this unit can develop and produce biological lipid extracts. The 3×400-liter unit enables mass production, while the smaller units enable very high value-added production.

Extraction with CO2 supercritical solvent is a green method for extracting natural plant components. This technique uses a selective solvent that is non-toxic and non-destructive of active molecules. It replaces the use of organic solvents that are harmful to people and the environment.


Vidya Europe at a glance

Vidya Europe is the European subsidiary of the Indian group Vidya Herbs, based in Eure et Loir (production units) and in the south-west Paris region (head office, research & innovation center and logistics platform). This international group was founded in the 2000s by Shyamprasad Kodimule, who is currently CEO. Vidya Herbs specializes in the production and distribution of plant-based ingredients and active ingredients for the BtoB market. The company has a total of fifteen production facilities in India, France, the United States and Japan, as well as a worldwide commercial presence. Vidya Herbs is recognized as one of the world leaders in turmeric, and plays a significant role in the coffee sector.

Reducing greenhouse gas emissions: Expanscience's targets approved by the Science-Based Targets initiative 

Expanscience

Expanscience, a B Corp-certified company with a mission, announces that its greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions reduction trajectory has been approved by the Science-Based Targets (SBTi) initiative. Expanscience's targets for 2030 and 2050 are thus recognized as compatible with limiting the rise in global temperatures to 1.5°C above pre-industrial levels, in line with the recommendations of the IPCC (Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change). 

" Expanscience's raison d'être is to contribute to the well-being of individuals, and our activities are intrinsically linked to life and biodiversity. Contributing to the achievement of global climate objectives, and protecting and preserving biodiversity is therefore one of our major objectives as a company with a mission. We are adapting our activities and embarking on a low-carbon transition to help preserve the health of ecosystems and human beings, in line with the recommendations of the IPCC. ", says Karen Lemasson, Expanscience's CSR and Open Innovation Director.

Work on all stages of the product life cycle to achieve these objectives

Composed of experts from leading global organizations - the Carbon Disclosure Project, the United Nations Global Compact, the World Resources Institute (WRI) and the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) - SBTi assists companies in defining their decarbonization objectives, taking into account climate science projections. SBTi independently evaluates and validates these objectives according to strict criteria, attesting to the fact that the company's GHG reduction trajectory is compatible with the IPCC's recommendations: global warming must not exceed +1.5°C compared with pre-industrial levels, in order to avoid irreversible runaway effects for the planet and its inhabitants.

For Laboratoires Expanscience, the validation of the carbon trajectory by this international initiative means : 

  • A 35 % reduction in GHG emissions by 20301 and 81% by 20502 compared with 2019, 
  • Sustainable storage of Expanscience's incompressible GHG emissions through the use of natural carbon sinks (trees, soils, plants, etc.) by 2050.3.

To achieve these objectives, Expanscience works on every stage in the life cycle of its products: energy management, raw material selection, packaging and product distribution.

In particular, this implies reducing or even halting air transport in favor of sea or land transport, a transition already successfully implemented in Latin America. Expanscience is also looking to find more environmentally-friendly shipping alternatives, such as cargo ships powered by diesel engines. 

The Eure-et-Loir production and R&D site has already stepped up its decarbonization and energy-saving measures. The company is implementing numerous energy-saving measures, such as rationalizing the use of its gas-fired boilers, with the shutdown of one of its three boilers in 2022 and the mothballing of a second. It is also conducting a study into alternative projects involving heat recovery and the use of biomass, aimed at reducing gas consumption and replacing it with less carbon-intensive sources. This promising strategy could not only improve energy efficiency, but also significantly reduce greenhouse gas emissions, with a GHG reduction of around 67% compared with 2021. The project could also be deployed at Expanscience's plant raw materials processing site in Peru, should the results of the study prove satisfactory.

Another example is packaging: Laboratoires Expanscience is developing new bottles made largely from recycled raw materials, with a higher percentage of recyclability. At the same time, Expanscience is a member of "Pulp in action", a research and development project involving a consortium of 14 companies from the cosmetics industry, supported by the consulting firm (Re)set and in partnership with Febea (Fédération des Entreprises de la Beauté). Dedicated to the issue of packaging, the work carried out focuses on the use of cellulose fibers as an alternative to plastic.

Since 2004, an impact policy progressively integrated into corporate strategy 

Laboratoires Expanscience's commitment to society and its quest for positive impact have guided the company for several decades. In 2004, Laboratoires Expanscience voluntarily signed up to the United Nations Global Compact, which defines a universal commitment framework for companies, based on ten principles relating to human rights, international labor standards, the environment and the fight against corruption. 

In 2018, Expanscience became the first pharmaceutical and dermo-cosmetic laboratory in the world to obtain B Corp certification (renewed in 2021). Finally, in 2021, Laboratoires Expanscience chose to become a mission-driven company. 

Expanscience has a long-term commitment to reducing the greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions associated with its activities, notably through its Mustela brand. Expanscience carried out its first carbon assessment in 2008, and in 2019 will complete a full inventory of its emissions, integrating all the Group's activities and those of its international subsidiaries.

The validation of Laboratoires Expanscience's carbon trajectory by the Science-Based Target initiative thus marks a further step towards Expanscience's ecological transition, whose ambition is to contribute to the regeneration of ecosystems by 2040.

" We are more determined than ever to mobilize our teams, our partners, our suppliers and the players in our ecosystems. all along our value chain to do our part in contributing to global carbon neutrality. This means evolving, reviewing our business model and offerings, and even giving up certain activities that would be incompatible with planetary limits. ", concludes Karen Lemasson, CSR and Open Innovation Director.

1. Corresponds to a reduction of 46.2% on the totality of scopes 1 & 2 and a reduction of 46.2% on 73.05% of scope 3.
2. Corresponds to a reduction of 90% out of 95% for scopes 1 & 2 and a reduction of 90% out of 90% for scope 3.
3. A state of equilibrium between incompressible GHG emissions and their absorption by natural carbon sinks. 

Photo taken from expanscience.com.

Pure Trade strengthens its position in the primary packaging market

Dino Chan Pure Trade

Pure Trade, particularly recognized by beauty brands for its expertise in the high-end design of secondary packaging, luggage, promotional accessories and textile items, affirms its intention to accelerate its development in the primary packaging market dedicated to beauty, with the same level of excellence.

Dino Chan joins the Pure Trade Asia team headed by Mona Lee, as Senior Manager of Product Compliance. His mission is to oversee the design, engineering and compliance of primary packaging. With over 30 years' experience in the health, beauty and cosmetics industry (CGrouP HK Limited, LF Beauty, Asquan), Dino Chan has strong complementary skills in product compliance, social compliance, quality, design and product engineering.

 "Primary packaging is much more than just a container. It sets high standards in terms of functionality, aesthetics, hygiene, regulations and environmental protection. Drawing on its many years of experience, Dino is committed to working with Pure Trade to offer brands and their consumers premium primary packaging, from the selection of materials to the user experience", said Stefane Ladous, President of Pure Trade.

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