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BDK Parfums unveils its new "Pas ce soir extrait" fragrance

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The editorial staff
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"For me, Pas ce soir is a fragrance with a very assertive trail and signature. It has a mischievous side with its addictive facets, which enabled me to work on this spiced quince chutney accord to draw the curves of a new delicacy. For its extract version, I wanted to enrich its chypre structure with a strong intensity of patchouli overdose carried by a bewitching jasmine that combines with this hint of quince chutney. This characteristic note gradually gives way to the fuller-bodied, resinoid cocoa to create a deeply carnal and sensual signature".explains Violaine Collas, the Mane perfumer behind the fragrance.

Presented in 2016 at the launch of the house of BDK Parfums, Pas ce soir immediately seduced with its very floral, gourmand and chypre structure. For this second extract from the Collection Parisienne, David Benedek, founder of BDK Parfums, wanted to offer a more concentrated version of this floral chypre, bringing a more colorful tone to the original creation. 

"A lover of painting since I was a child, I love the notions of color and texture, which I like to transpose into perfumery whenever possible. With Violaine Collas, we sought to make Pas ce soir more faceted, so that this new version would be even more addictive and delicious. To achieve this, we added cocoa and patchouli, which together bring intensity and depth to the composition.says David Benedek.

"Pas ce soir extrait outlines the curves of a new, infinitely mysterious delicacy. Intriguing as an enigma to be deciphered, it becomes ultra addictive. An image I wanted to capture through the full-bodied intensity of resinoid cocoa and the woody richness of Gayo Pure Jungle Essence patchouli. An olfactory writing whose overdose is carried by a bewitching jasmine absolute that combines with a hint of quince chutney to create a deeply carnal and sensual signature".emphasizes Violaine Collas.

Texen reinvents the Le Blanc foundation case for Chanel

By
The editorial staff
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For the iconic Le Blanc foundation, Chanel has chosen PET, while maintaining the same high technical and aesthetic standards. The choice of this complex material represents a strategic step for the brand, and a new challenge for Texen.

This large, refillable case features a compact foundation that promises light and radiance for the face. Previously made from ABS, the case is now made from 100 % PET (excluding pin and mirror). With this strategic choice, the brand anticipates European regulations on cosmetic materials and pursues its eco-design objectives. 

Historic collaboration

We remember the recent XXL Les Beiges case, for which Texen multiplied the challenges of a large, thin-walled piece injected in rPET. This time, Chanel opted for PET rather than rPET for the color stability of the case's light shades. As part of a long-standing collaboration with the brand, this new development illustrates the many challenges involved in transforming and decorating a new material. 

To respect PET's choice, Texen drew on its experience gained during the development of the previous case. It was a driving force behind the project, in order to meet the same quality requirements as the brand. It had to reconcile design and industrial processes, and challenge its partners.

A solution for every challenge

The first challenge: the complex injection of PET required multiple tests, particularly for the hood, whose top and waistband are in two different shades. To inject the waistband, Texen used the "Besst Transform" induction technique from Roctool engineering. The result is an aesthetically perfect piece with no surface defects. The brand logo is then hot-stamped in the center of the lid. All parts were injected and then decorated in-line with HES varnish (high extract solids), notably the bottom of the case, on the Picoligne line installed at Texen CMSI. It should be remembered that this surface treatment module favors agile and secure production (reduced transport, quality reactivity, reduced inventory and lead times, productivity...).

The parts are then assembled on the Smart compact line, equipped with an on-board "zero defect point" control module on 100 % parts. Lid and hinge are connected by a pin compatible with the mechanical properties of the material. Inside, the cup holder is clipped into the technical grid, enabling the consumer to easily replace the refill.

About Besst Transform

This concept makes materials sublime. It optimizes the manufacture of even the finest parts for ultra-premium aesthetics and absolute brilliance. The Texen Lab uses dedicated equipment to produce prototypes under real-life processing conditions, enabling the material to retain its fluidity for flawless packaging. 

The Regula Prestige Airless jar: safety and premium looks

By
The editorial staff
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Quadpack's Regula range evolves with a new PET version of its deluxe airless jar

The Regula Prestige Airless jar from international beauty packaging manufacturer and supplier Quadpack is now available in PET. This recognized 50 ml pack offers high protection for the formula. Delicate skin care products, such as face creams or baby products, benefit from the protection of its bag-in-bottle airless system, which offers up to six barriers. In addition to preserving product integrity, it offers precise dosage of 0.5 ml per squeeze and an above-average restitution rate, ensuring minimum waste of the precious formula.

Elevating a standard format to the level of pure luxury, this superb jar boasts a spectacular silhouette, ideal for the most refined brands. With its swan-shaped pump set on a wide base, this thick-walled jar offers a versatile base for decoration. Injected at Quadpack's high-end production plant in Germany, the pack can adopt a wide variety of finishes, playing with transparencies and colors to achieve a sophisticated look. The jar is top-fillable and compatible with most filling lines.

The new version is available with recyclable PET cap and pot, and PP pump. A PCR PET version is currently under development and will be launched later this year.

A saffron nutraceutical

By
The editorial staff
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Designed by the young Lyon-based brand Naali, Naali Collagen is a beauty or nutraceutical food supplement with type 1 and 2 marine collagen from sustainable fishing, designed to boost the production of internal collagen and protect it. 

For optimum effectiveness, it is combined with saffron to help stimulate its production, vitamin C and biotin, known to help maintain the skin's normal properties.

A mint-lime-flavored powder to be diluted in water, a drink or yoghurt, each daily dose (6.2 g) of Naali Collagen provides 5 g of Peptan F, type I marine collagen peptides, 500 mg of Cartydiss Skin, type II marine collagen peptides, 30 mg of Naali saffron extract, Vitamin C and Biotin (Vitamin B8). The Naali Collagen formula has been developed by Naali's Scientific Committee on the basis of clinical studies to effectively help reduce wrinkles, delay the signs of aging, improve skin firmness and elasticity, and maintain a state of overall skin health. (Recommended use: one dose per day.)

Saffron, the red thread of the Naali brand, is a natural ally for the skin thanks to its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, which help stimulate the production of collagen, the protein essential for maintaining healthy skin.

Pure saffron and an eco-responsible approach

Naali has selected a 100 % red saffron, category 1 from Afghanistan, which received the Superior Taste Award from iTQi. Grown under ethical conditions, this saffron is harvested by hand in the traditional way, once a year.

Peptan F and Cartydiss Skin marine collagen peptides are MSC-certified, i.e. from sustainable fisheries.

Safranotherapy: the science of well-being through saffron

Young Lyon-based brand Naali has positioned itself on the wellness market with a flagship ingredient: saffron. 

With the support of its scientific committee, the company aims to develop "safranotherapy": the science of well-being through saffron. 

This positive-impact brand - each product sold funds an hour's tuition for a young woman in Afghanistan - has launched anti-stress gummies for everyone, as well as a heavy-legged infusion for women, and offers pure saffron filaments, prized by Michelin-starred chefs. 

Naali plans to launch four new products in 2023, including dietary supplements and topical cosmetics, always using the purest red saffron from the high plateaus of Afghanistan and Morocco, certified category 1 ISO3662. 

Saffron: a natural beauty ally to boost collagen synthesis

Although primarily used in cooking for its flavor and color, saffron is also recognized for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, which can help stimulate the production of collagen, an essential protein for maintaining healthy, youthful skin.

Saffron is rich in antioxidants, such as crocin and safranal, which can help protect skin from free radical damage.

It also contains anti-inflammatory compounds, such as crocetin, which can help reduce skin inflammation. When chronic, inflammation becomes a major cause of collagen degradation in the skin.

Finally, saffron's bioactive compounds, such as thiamine, riboflavin and ascorbic acid, can help stimulate collagen production in the skin, with visible benefits, as demonstrated by several studies*. Saffron would therefore be an ally in helping to stimulate collagen synthesis in the skin, thereby improving its firmness, texture and elasticity, and preventing the signs of aging.

*References: Modaghegh MH, Shahabian M, Esmaeili HA, Rajbai O, Hosseinzadeh H. Safety evaluation of saffron (Crocus sativus) tablets in healthy volunteers. Phytomedicine. 2008;15(12):1032-1037. Tabeshpour J, Sobhani F, Sadjadi SA, Hosseinzadeh H. Effects of Crocus sativus L. (saffron) on skin: A systematic review. Phytother Res. 2018;32(11):2169-2181. Hosseinzadeh H, Nassiri-Asl M. Avicenna's (Ibn Sina) the Canon of Medicine and Saffron (Crocus sativus): A Review. Phytother Res. 2013;27(4):475-483. Mohajeri SA, Hosseinzadeh H. Protective effect of saffron extract and crocin on reactive oxygen species-mediated high glucose-induced toxicity in PC12 cells. Cell Mol Neurobiol. 2012;32(2):227-235.

Verescence presents its Sustainability Report 2022-2023

By
The editorial staff
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Verescence, a global specialist in luxury bottles for the perfume and cosmetics industry, has published its 2022-2023 sustainability report, approved by the independent third-party organization KPMG. 

This sixth report highlights the progress made by Verescence in its fundamental pillars: People First, Act For Society and Eco Solutions, as part of its Glass made to last program. 

"Verescence's significant progress, illustrated in this sixth sustainability report, is only possible thanks to a solid governance and performance system.said Thomas Riou, CEO of Verescence. In 2022, our efforts were rewarded once again by EcoVadis, which awarded us a platinum medal, as well as by CDP, which awarded us a double 'A' for our leadership in climate action and water management." 

Here are a few highlights: 

  • Verescence has reduced its CO2 emissions (scopes 1 and 2) by 20 % since 2017, and its 2019-2034 decarbonization plan has been approved by the Science Based Targets (SBTi) initiative on the basis of the WB2C scenario.
  • Verescence recycles 98% of the water used in its industrial processes in a closed loop at its sites and has reduced its water withdrawals by 50% since 2017.
  • Verescence recycled 91% of its waste and produced 62% of its bottles from post-consumer recycled glass (PCR), demonstrating its commitment to a circular economy.
  • Verescence favors short supply chains, with 97% of purchases coming from local suppliers.
  • Verescence maintains a lost-time accident frequency rate of less than 5, 2.5 times lower than the industry average.
  • Verescence has achieved parity in hiring, with 52% women recruited, including in production, quality, moldmaking and maintenance.

Coverpla strengthens its presence in the Italian market with Reynaldi

By
The editorial staff
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Coverpla and its Italian division are involved in developing new fragrances for the Reynaldi house.

Founded by Dr. Reynaldi over 40 years ago, the Turin-based company has gradually established itself as a leader in its country for its cosmetics, orchestrating their complete development right through to formulation. Today, the company stands out for its commitment to nature and civil society.

A year ago, she decided to add Bois Tonic, Rose Taif, Blossom and Tiaré to her fragrance collection, making it "modern and elegant". 

Coverpla, partner to a customizable offer

The brand's brief was to modernize its lines of colognes and eaux de parfum in line with market trends. The idea was not only to create a sensory product, but also to offer the consumer a beautiful object to display in a bathroom, to give as a gift or to treat oneself. "We wanted a particularly elegant product whose pure, defined lines could appeal to both the Italian and foreign markets."

More than a standard offer, a service

For these four fragrances, the brand chose the 200 ml Elsa and 50 ml Laura bottles, both with matte black Vintage caps and silver-tinted pumps and pump covers. Coverpla advised on aesthetics and practiced its art of personalizing a product through mix & match of its component parts. For this development, the Vintage hood forms a common thread between the various references. Adding to the elegance is a deliberately uncluttered label.

FaiveleyTech magnifies the new Eau de Rochas Citron Soleil eau de toilette

By
The editorial staff
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Rochas recently unveiled its new Eau de Rochas Citron Soleil eau de toilette, a musky floral citrus that offers a journey to the Mediterranean Riviera.

A premium hood with a refined finish for a breath of modernity

For its luminous, fresh and contemporary new eau de toilette, Interparfums entrusted FaiveleyTech with the creation of the cap design.

FaiveleyTech is an international group of French origin, specializing in high value-added plastic injection molding for demanding, selective and/or normative markets in industry, beauty and health.

FaiveleyTech has designed a massive white single-injected sphere-shaped cap with ambitious dimensions, as a symbol of strength and movement.

A feat made possible by FaiveleyTech's Beauty BU's mastery of plastic injection, which gives the fragrance a soft, pleasant feel like the "cottony softness of white musks".

"The elegant soft-touch effect on the surface, with no finishing touches and discreet joint lines, completes the challenge set by the brand.explains Béryl Tomaschett, Key Account Manager at FaiveleyTech Orgelet.

The cap adapts to the capacity: 100 ml Eau de Rochas Citron Soleil.

Photo: © Rochas

Alter-Powders: an alternative to unwanted ingredients in formulations 

By
The editorial staff
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Since 2002, Lessonia's core business and expertise has been the design and manufacture of cosmetic ingredients. At a time when environmental awareness is on the rise, and consumers are keen to avoid using cosmetics containing decried ingredients, Lessonia offers new perspectives with a new range of functional ingredients. 

These plant-based ingredients are technical alternatives to criticized ingredients. For example, they offer alternatives to synthetic polymers, talc, surfactants and modified starches. 

To develop and manufacture this range, Lessonia is capitalizing on its industrial tools for transforming plant powders and on its formulation know-how. It's a strategic shift away from its core business of manufacturing exfoliating particles and micronized plant powders.

 This range is the result of an R&D project aimed at identifying the potential cosmetic applications of numerous white and colorless plant raw materials. One of the main objectives of this development was to propose plant-based solutions with no negative organoleptic impact in formulas. 

The Alter-Powders range is made up of six ingredients whose functions are to emulsify, thicken, gel...

Alter-Emulfaba is the first emulsifier on the market made exclusively from natural 100 % plant extracts, without chemical grafting. Easy to use with few incompatibilities, it enables the formulation of very white emulsions with a very soft, non-sticky, non-soap sensoriality. It is a powder emulsifier, based on plant extracts and gums, without chemical modification. This natural Cosmos-compliant functional ingredient is a plant-based alternative to the surfactants normally used in emulsions.

Alter-Thickbarley is a high-viscosity 100 % powder thickener of plant and natural origin, used to formulate thick, rich but non-greasy textures with a powdery effect. This natural Cosmos-compliant functional ingredient is an alternative to modified starches and synthetic polymers. It maintains perfect whiteness, even during heat treatment.

Alter-Gelijac is a 100% powdered gelling agent of plant and natural origin, enabling high viscosity and translucent gels to be obtained. This natural Cosmos-compliant functional ingredient is a plant-based alternative to xanthan gum, carbomers and synthetic polymers. It leaves a protective film on the skin and a pleasant sensation of freshness. It can be used hot or cold.

Alter-Gelitium is a 100% powdered gelling agent of plant and natural origin that can be used to formulate transparent aqueous gels or as a co-emulsifier or suspending agent. This natural Cosmos-compliant functional ingredient is a plant-based alternative to synthetic polymers.

Alter-Suspensilia is a 100% powdered suspension agent of plant and natural origin, made from Sterculia gum, the resin of the Sterculia tree. This natural Cosmos-compliant functional ingredient is an alternative to synthetic polymers. It has high suspending power and low viscosity.

Alter-Talcanioc, an ingredient to formulate a hydrophobic powder. This functional ingredient is a plant-based alternative to talc with the same hydrophobic properties. It is ideal for protecting the skin against moisture, and will be the perfect natural, plant-based ingredient to formulate baby powders, make-up or even be used as a touch-up agent.

Interview with Morgane Boucher, R&D Manager

Morgane Boucher RD- Ingredients - Product info

What problems encountered in cosmetic formulations motivated you to develop this range?

Many of the Inci used in our formulations are criticized for posing a health risk to consumers or having a negative impact on the environment. Talc, for example, has been banned in the USA. Lessonia aims to offer upcycled, natural and plant-based ingredients and raw materials to its customers. Our ambition has therefore been to respond to a more responsible and ethical demand by developing a range of natural, plant-based white powders that also meet the needs of formulators.

What are the special features of these alternative powders?

The alternative powders in the Alter-Powders range are natural, plant-based, Cosmos-compliant and Ok Chine. The powders are white or very light-colored and odorless. Bringing these two criteria together was very ambitious, and we're delighted to be able to offer these alternative natural ingredients.

In this range, is there an ingredient that required more constraints for its development?

Yes, especially for Alter-Suspensilia. At Lessonia, we manufacture our own micronized powders and exfoliating particles. It was therefore obvious for us to develop a natural gelling agent to keep our raw materials in suspension. Exfoliating particles can be dense and heavy, so a great deal of R&D went into developing a gelling agent to optimize the presence of these particles and keep them in suspension.

How long did it take you to develop this range?

We worked on the development of this new range for over a year. Alter-Powders is the result of extensive R&D work. In fact, we screened over 50 raw materials for our sourcing. The aim was to target the main property of each material. A great deal of work went into optimizing processes and combinations to obtain the most effective formulation of our ingredients for formulators. We put a lot of effort into this innovative project. Today, the whole team is proud to see this project come to fruition, and to present it at our trade shows and customer visits.

Aptar strengthens its business in Oyonnax

By
The editorial staff
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On July 12, Aptar inaugurated its new site dedicated to luxury packaging in Oyonnax, Ain. The new site reflects Aptar Beauty's strategic vision and the Group's strong roots in France.

Operational since early January 2023, Aptar's state-of-the-art, made-to-measure luxury beauty site in Oyonnax represents an investment of 42 million euros. It occupies a surface area of 25,000 m2 and employs 460 people. 

Previously spread over five sites, 80% of its production tools were relocated in record time. Aptar Beauty's aim is to consolidate its leading position in the prestige packaging market, and even better, to make Oyonnax the new cradle of made-to-measure luxury packaging.

By bringing together five sites in a single location, Aptar aims to strengthen its core business at Oyonnax, by improving its production processes and optimizing the industrial and operational performance of its production unit.

Thanks to cutting-edge technologies, unique technical skills and the professionalism of its staff, Aptar Beauty aims to meet its customers' expectations and deliver a wide range of increasingly innovative, technically sophisticated, personalized and high-end products.

A true showcase for the Group's know-how, the Oyonnax site offers agility, flexibility and operational efficiency to further consolidate the transatlantic group's industrial leadership.

With this new site, Aptar renews its social and local ambitions. By choosing France and "Made in France", Aptar, the largest private employer in the south of the Eure and the largest employer in the Oyonnax area, confirms its territorial roots and its desire to contribute to the influence of French know-how, as close as possible to its European partners and customers.

A site that respects environmental issues

This investment is in line with Aptar's vision of offering tailor-made solutions and services to its customers, and ensuring their excellence, thus contributing to the success of French brands with innovative packaging solutions, drawing on the unique local skills and expertise of the region's subcontractors and technical partners.

Aptar Oyonnax has teamed up with the developer "M PLUS M" to create an industrial site that blends into the natural environment and respects both people and the environment, in partnership with Ademe and Clévia (Eiffage Group) for a bold, high-performance building.

In line with Aptar's policy of environmental excellence, the transformation of the Oyonnax site meets the most stringent standards in the field, and aims to reduce the carbon impact of the entire sector.

This building saves 45 % of energy and reduces CO2 emissions by 58 %, thanks in particular to the recovery of waste heat and the end of inter-site transport.

The Aptar Oyonnax project is a technical challenge: it recovers all the waste heat from its internal processes to become virtually self-sufficient, has a new daylight detection system (Led/Advanced system) and an extra-white roof to reduce air-conditioning systems. All these improvements have enabled the site to obtain Leed v4 Silver level certification, the first French industrial site to do so, as well as the Biodivercity label for the preservation of species around the site.

This initiative is one of Aptar's major achievements in terms of eco-responsibility. Worldwide, Aptar operates ten ISCC Plus-certified sites, over 95 % of its electricity consumption comes from renewable resources, and over 60 % of its production sites avoid landfill waste. Aptar's focus on sustainability has been recognized by numerous external organizations, such as EcoVadis. Since 2021, the company has retained the EcoVadis Platinum Medal, placing Aptar among the top 1 % of companies rated in terms of CSR.

New collaboration with Guerlain: the Evolux pump

Terracotta Le Teint Guerlain Aptar- Ingredients - Market info

Aptar Beauty has collaborated with Guerlain to develop a high-performance yet luxurious pump for its new Terracotta Le Teint foundation.

The Evolux pump has undergone a series of rigorous tests with Aptar Beauty's applied sciences department to ensure optimum compatibility with Guerlain's innovative formula.

Designed for exceptional skincare and make-up formulas, easy to use and dressed in an elegant metal finish, the Evolux pump offers a truly high-end consumer experience.

The pump's high-tech "Alpha" motor, made without polyoxymethylene, preserves the formula's virtues by protecting it from any contact with metal.

According to Aptar Beauty, it is the only engine on the market perfectly adapted to the specificities of new-generation formulations such as Terracotta Le Teint, the first liquid powder launched by Guerlain. 

Manufactured in France at the Aptar Le Neubourg site, Evolux is finished in an anodized metal in the exact shade of Guerlain's signature gold.

The double G, the brand symbol, is finely engraved on the push-button - an elegant finish that complements the product's luxurious aesthetic.

Terracotta Le Teint was launched in March 2023. The Evolux pump also equips Guerlain's rejuvenating Parure Gold foundation, launched at the end of 2022.

Cosmetic 360 launches its Open Innovation 2023

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editocom
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The Open Innov service enables you to present an innovation project and exchange ideas with business experts from leading companies in the cosmetics industry.

These major companies have an open innovation policy, and are keen to develop innovation in the industry by making their expertise available to project developers.

Whether you're a public-sector researcher, an innovative project owner, a start-up, VSE, SME or ETI, This service enables you to present your innovations at all levels of maturity. By putting you in touch with one another, you can gauge interest in the subject, find out what's at stake for your company, set up a collaboration, work on direct implementation, develop your sales, and more.

The innovations presented can concern the entire cosmetics value chain: raw materials, measurement, testing, packaging, materials, formulation, industrialization, finished products, logistics, retail, etc.

Since 2015, over 1,400 projects have been submitted from 35 different countries, over 600 meetings have been organized. 

Details from Amandine Goubert, Cosmetic Valley R&I Manager

Apply now
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