Lipoid Kosmetik is a leading manufacturer of high quality botanical extracts, actives and natural phospholipid products for the cosmetic and personal care industry. Following the success of the 20th BSB Innovation Awards last spring, we are pleased to announce that our new active ingredient, PhytoCollagen plant collagen, has been awarded the 2nd prize in the BSB Innovation Award Environment in the category of raw material protection and skin hydration. The BSB Innovation Award Environment aims to promote innovation in the fields of cosmetics and natural products and rewards finished products, production processes and raw materials with a positive impact on the environment. The international jury awarded a "strong eco-social impact" to the vegan and sustainable alternative to collagen from acacia, which has similar beauty benefits compared to animal collagen. We are very pleased with the great success of PhytoCollagen, as it confirms our continuous effort to develop new and innovative products that also have a positive impact in terms of sustainability.
New name, new strategy - paving the way for a sustainable future:
In keeping with the company's Fachpack 2022 motto, "the future is in action," Schur Rexibles, the expert in sustainable flexible packaging solutions, has announced a new company name to underscore its new forward-looking strategy. Headquartered in Austria, the fast-growing European group connects 2,200 employees and 22 production sites in eleven countries. It is a leading advocate of sustainability in packaging and a producer of highly specialized packaging films. The new name Adapa is the next logical step for a company whose group members have strengthened their collaboration to meet new challenges.
Past expansion - present success
With its European centers of excellence, Schur Rexibles, now adapa, has established a solid foundation based on sustainability and innovation. The centers work closely together to provide the full range of integrated solutions along the value chain for the food, hygiene, flavor protection and pharmaceutical industries. This puts the company in an ideal position to be a gas pedal of change for a better world and a trusted partner to its customers.
Juan Luis Martinez Arteaga, CEO of adapa, comments, " We would like to thank our customers, partners and employees. They are all part of our success story and have helped us get to where we are today despite challenging times. The new name reflects our belief that together we can build a strong and sustainable foundation for future growth." .
Adapting to the future
The new name, adapa, derived from "adaptive packaging," emphasizes one of the company's core values, namely adapting to a changing world. The new strategy includes short- and long-term measures focused on sustainability, organic growth, operational excellence and innovation/digitization. adapa's sustainability strategy will strive to establish a true circular economy for flexible packaging and ensure that the carbon footprint is optimized at every stage of the process. Organic growth will enable the company to strengthen its leadership role in regional markets. In this area, adapa's Centers of Excellence will provide technical expertise and customized innovations, enabling mid-sized customers to become regional champions with global opportunities. adapa's operational excellence strategy will ensure high levels of flexibility and highly efficient configuration for S ME manufacturers with small and medium-sized production runs and selected key accounts. These goals are based on adapa's core values: Creating an environment of trust, accountability and reliability, as well as a team spirit and continuous improvement when working with customers.
Regulatory changes in allergen labelling: Phytodia is ahead of the game and offers manufacturers a technical solution for the analysis of new labelled allergens (57 + 25 in total)
| Following the opinion of the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) in 2012, the draft "Allergen Regulation" has just been submitted by the European Union. It confirms the recommendations of the SCCS: several dozen labelable allergens will be added to the list of those currently mentioned in Annex III of the Cosmetics Regulation (EC 1223/2009). In total, the list is increased to 82 labelable allergens. Among them, 57 substances and 25 natural extracts will now be compulsorily controlled in raw materials and cosmetic ingredients, as well as in finished products, and be indicated on their packaging. The implementation of this "Allergen Regulation" is scheduled for the first half of 2023. With 18 years of experience in the field of natural molecule analysis by chromatography, Phytodia is taking the lead in this regulatory evolution and is now offering an adapted and affordable technical solution for all manufacturers of raw materials and cosmetic products. This solution allows the detection and analysis of extremely low thresholds (less than 1ppm, or 0.000001%) for these 57 allergenic substances. |
| Allergens are substances present in cosmetic products in the form of small volatile and odorous molecules that can cause allergic reactions at the application site. They come mainly from fragrance ingredients and are listed on the product label so that users can quickly identify them. If until now, the European Commission imposed the mention of 26 allergenic substances in the list of ingredients of cosmetic products, they will now be 57. Therefore, manufacturers must control these 57 allergenic substances and 25 natural extracts in raw materials and cosmetic ingredients, as well as in finished products, and indicate them on their packaging when their concentration exceeds 0.001 % in leave-on products and 0.01 % in rinse-off products. |
| cosmetic products, in order to best contribute to the safety of consumers. |
The deadlines to comply with these new requirements are 3 years to withdraw non-compliant cosmetic products from the market and 5 years for those that have been placed on the market before the new labeling provisions become applicable. The implementation of this "Allergens Regulation" is scheduled for the first half of 2023. In concrete terms, this means that manufacturers will have to have new methods of analysis and dosage in order to be able to adapt their labeling to the requirements of European regulations and to continue to ensure optimal consumer protection. Phytodia's analytical experts, with 18 years of experience in chromatographic analysis, have anticipated this evolution and have been offering for several months an analysis solution perfectly suited to all raw material and process manufacturers.
" Regulations are changing regularly and manufacturers need to have clear answers on how to comply with these changes. This is precisely Phytodia's unique expertise: to allow the technical translation of these regulatory requirements. Many manufacturers have already anticipated these changes in regulations and are already performing allergen dosages according to the list, because the stakes are high. "explains Nicolas Rohrbacher, Doctor of Pharmacy and Head of Research and Development at Phytodia.
[podcast] Cosmetic 360, innovation in three dimensions
On the occasion of the next edition of Cosmetic 360, to be held on October 12 and 13, 2022 at the Carrousel du Louvre in Paris, we turned the microphone over to Franckie Béchereau, show director; Amandine Goubert, innovation director; and Christophe Masson, managing director of Cosmetic Valley.
All three report on the state of the show, innovation and international relations. Three flash episodes to help you prepare for your visit!
Shiseido to acquire Gallinée, a microbiome-based skin care brand
On September 28, 2022, Shiseido Europe S.A., a subsidiary of Shiseido Company, Limited, entered into an agreement to acquire all of the outstanding shares of Gallinée Ltd ("Gallinée"), a London-based beauty brand dedicated to caring for the skin microbiome from head to toe. The acquisition of Gallinée illustrates Shiseido's commitment to the skin beauty category, helping us achieve our mission of integrating skin beauty and inner beauty, while continuing to position ourselves to "be a global winner with our heritage." This commitment is part of our "Win 2023 and Beyond" strategy, which aims to become the leading global company in the category by 2030.
Gallinée was founded in 2014 by Marie Drago, PharmD, a world-renowned expert on the skin microbiome. The skin microbiome plays a vital role on our skin and overall health by protecting us from the outside world. The brand offers a line of science-backed beauty products featuring a patented complex of prebiotics, probiotics and postbiotics that nourish and strengthen the skin microbiome. Gallinée will be a unique addition to Shiseido's existing portfolio, given its focus on beauty and wellness, as well as its differentiated positioning in the emerging field of skin microbiome. As part of the Shiseido Group, Gallinée will be able to leverage the resources of our commercial infrastructure, R＆D's extensive capabilities, particularly our European Innovation Center, to lead the development of the skin microbiome in EMEA, and cross-functional expertise to continue to drive the growth of the brand.
Following the transaction, Marie Drago, PharmD, will join Shiseido's Emea team and continue to provide product innovation and support Gallinée as the brand's Chief Creative Officer, reporting directly to Franck Marilly, President ＆ CEO, Shiseido Emea ＆ Global Fragrance.
Revitalide - Encapsulated Retinol for advanced skin care
Wrinkles, stretch marks, skin imperfections and scars... For decades, retinol has demonstrated its incredible beauty benefits, but also its drawbacks: skin irritation and chemical instability.
Sederma is pleased to present its encapsulated version of this hero ingredient: Revitalide is a submicronic lipid particle carrying 3 % of active retinol. This high-tech capsule offers enhanced stability, protecting retinol from degradation and making it easy to store and formulate. The capsule's small particle size and unique lipid composition significantly enhance bioavailability in the skin, with a controlled release process for encapsulated retinol.
The active ingredient's protection and enhanced release into the skin reinforce retinol's efficacy, minimizing its level of use while offering excellent cutaneous tolerance. Skin diffusion of Revitalide measured on skin expanders showed a 7-fold increase in retinol diffusion into the skin compared with non-encapsulated retinol.
This IECIC-compliant ingredient is also a sustainable ingredient with a natural origin content of 95.50 % according to ISO 16128, is 100 % and readily biodegradable in 28 days, RSPO approved and can be stored at room temperature.
BASF announces innovation partnership with RiKarbon for emollients derived from biowaste
■ The partnership builds on RiKarbon Inc.'s successful R&D activities for new green emollients from biowaste for personal care formulations.
■ BASF will leverage its customer access and manufacturing capabilities to advance RiKarbon's technology and drive innovation in the personal care market.
■ Another example of Care 360° - Solutions for Sustainable Life from BASF's Care Chemicals division.
BASF and RiKarbon Inc, a US technology start-up, announce the signing of a partnership agreement for the exclusive licensing and commercialization of RiKarbon's proprietary technology.
RiKarbon's patented technology recycles biowaste into biosourced, biodegradable emollients for the global personal care market, supporting the industry's drive for innovative sustainable solutions.
RiKarbon's successful R&D work has demonstrated the conversion of biowaste into unique new emollient chemical structures, while rapidly scaling up the technology from laboratory to pilot scale. This innovative technology produces a clear, odorless emollient that imparts excellent silky-smooth sensory properties to personal care formulations. BASF intends to bring RiKarbon technology in-house, and expects the first solutions to be launched on the market in 2024.
Founded in 2018, RiKarbon's innovative technologies facilitate the commercial production of high-performance renewable chemicals and ingredients, such as base oils and emollients for renewable plastics, healthcare and specialty applications. These base oils and emollients contain up to 100 % of biobased sustainable carbon. They can be used to make cosmetics that meet growing market demand and help manufacturers meet regulatory requirements.
" It's been an exciting journey to bring our technology to the point where we can partner with BASF, " said Professor Basudeb Saha, President, and CEO of RiKarbon Inc. " We look forward to working closely with you in the months and years ahead."
" With this partnership, BASF continues to demonstrate its investment in open innovation and to extend its innovative offers to its customers." said Dr Robert Parker, Director of New Business Development and Head of Digital, Care Chemicals at BASF. " The results of RiKarbon's laboratory tests are very encouraging, showing the innovation's potential for the personal care market."
The partnership between BASF and RiKarbon is yet another example of how BASF's Care Chemicals division is meeting the challenges of the future. Sustainability, digitization, innovation and new approaches to working together are the key cornerstones of Care 360° - Solutions for sustainable living.
Changes in the Pierre Fabre Group Management Committee
Au 1er October, Frédéric Ennabli will be appointed Managing Director of the Pierre Fabre Group's Dermo-Cosmetics & Personal Care Business Unit. In this capacity, he will be a member of the Group's Executive Committee and will report to its CEO, Mr Eric Ducournau, who is also President of Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetics.
On the same date, the Dr. Núria Perez-Cullell will be appointed Director of the Pierre Fabre Group's Medical, Patients & Consumers Division, reporting to Eric Ducournau, Chief Executive Officer.
The Pierre Fabre Group thanks the Dr Deborah Szafir who has headed the Medical, Patients & Consumers department since its creation in 2020, and who is about to leave the Group to pursue a personal project. Over the past 3 years, Dr. Szafir has contributed to the integration of new drugs into the Pierre Fabre portfolio in the fields of oncology and rare diseases, as well as to the implementation of the life cycle management treatments launched in 2018 for melanoma and colorectal cancer.
About Frédéric Ennabli
Frédéric Ennabli was previously CEO of YellowKorner, a French publisher of fine art photography with 130 art galleries worldwide as a network of franchisees. The first part of his career was spent in the Consumer Products division of the L'Oréal group, in marketing positions of increasing responsibility, then as Managing Director of the Swiss subsidiary. He then built a career as a business owner and entrepreneur as CEO of Club des Créateurs de Beauté from 2007 to 2010, CEO of The Body Shop from 2010 to 2013, then CEO of YellowKorner from 2014 to 2021.
About Dr Núria Perez-Cullell
A Doctor of Pharmacy and graduate of Barcelona University, Núria Perez-Cullell joined the Pierre Fabre Group in 1998. She has held a variety of positions, from Executive Assistant to Monsieur Pierre Fabre, to General Manager of the Avène Thermal Spring Water brand from 2013 to 2018, where she was previously Worldwide Marketing Director. Since July 2018, Nuria Perez-Cullell has headed the Dermo-Cosmetics & Personal Care Business Unit.
GM Group announces the re-launch of the Clarins line of home care products
The two companies worked together to redesign the famous hotel line, reinforcing their commitment to sustainable development.
Groupe GM, international leader in hotel hospitality products, announces the relaunch of the Clarins hotel line, scented with the iconic Eau Dynamisante. Redesigned to better reflect Groupe GM's sustainable development objectives, this customized product line will be available worldwide through Groupe GM's extensive distribution network.
It all started with a holistic vision of beauty
It all began in the first Clarins institute, on rue Tronchet in Paris. In 1954, Jacques Courtin-Clarins opened this pioneering establishment, where he introduced his holistic vision of beauty. In his mind, beauty, well-being and health are one and the same. He encouraged dialogue with his customers, who were particularly satisfied with the customized solutions offered at his institute, and came in ever greater numbers to try out the Clarins Method and the first 100 % pure plant extract oils.
The results are both immediate and lasting. And with them, success! This vision, influenced from the outset by the brand's founder, continues to inspire today's treatments, products and techniques. " I wanted to create a link between medicine and beauty, between science and aesthetics. "explains Jacques Courtin-Clarins, founder and Chairman of the Clarins Group.
The new, improved line
The new Eau Dynamisante eco-friendly hotel line features 30 & 60 ml 100 % recycled plastic bottles, including caps. The range comprises a Vitality Foaming Gel enriched with ginseng, a Rejuvenating Body Lotion enriched with hazelnut oil, a Vitality Shine Shampoo with ginseng and a Vitality Shine Conditioner infused with shea butter. All available in 30 & 60 ml sizes.
The line also includes a hand gel and a Gentle Cotton Almond Hand Cleanser. Both products are available in larger, eco-responsible formats, such as the Ecopump. This 300 ml dispenser is made from 100 % recycled plastic and is combined with bio-resin pumps.
Cream soaps enriched with shea butter complete Clarins' line of home care products. The soaps are RSPO ("Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil") certified, and their white and red cardboard packaging is FSC ("Forest Stewardship Council") certified.
All products in Clarins' revamped line of home care products feature the signature Eau Dynamisante fragrance. Eau Dynamisante perfectly symbolizes the brand's expertise in the art of using the aromatic and sensorial powers of essential oils. An emblematic, vitalizing Eau de Soin, Eau Dynamisante combines the aromatic properties of essential oils with the benefits of plant extracts to moisturize, revitalize and perfume the skin. Formulated with aromatic essential oils of citrus, patchouli, bitter orange, rosemary and white thyme, Eau Dynamisante provides a pleasant sensation of freshness, vitality and well-being. Its exhilarating scent, discreet yet persistent, revitalizes, enhances mood and revives energy.
The Clarins hospitality line will be introducing Ecofill, a new, larger, refillable packaging solution, which will be available in the coming months. A patent-pending innovation from Groupe GM, it is the only eco-friendly, refillable and traceable dispenser equipped with sealed, single-use pouches. It's a clean, safe, fast and easy solution with reduced environmental impact. The 400 ml refillable pouches are made from just 8 g of recyclable plastic, and are easy to remove and replace.
The program " Care About Earth "
Thanks to eco-designed products and large-format dispensers, the Clarins home products range is now fully part of GM Group's "Care About Earth" program. Launched in 2018, the "Care About Earth" initiatives aim to strengthen GM Group's environmental and social actions. The aim of the program is to reduce the environmental impact of the hotel sector. The program reflects GM Group's commitment to the sustainable development of its products, and the company's efforts to minimize their environmental impact.
Laurent Marchand, President of GM Group, said: " We are delighted to be redesigning this popular line with our partner Clarins to bring it into line with the standards and convictions of both our companies. Groupe GM places innovation, quality and sustainability at the heart of its business, and both companies share the same strong commitment to the environment. This range of hospitality products is in line with our "Care About Earth" program, and we believe it is perfectly suited to our customers' needs. We look forward to launching this new range of products in hotels around the world! "
HNP Mikrosysteme very present in microencapsulation
In its latest issue (no. 35, September 2022), the magazine Industries Cosmétiques published an article entitled "Pumps and microencapsulation" in which some errors had crept in. We offer below the complete and accurate version of this article. We apologize to our readers and to the manufacturer.
Microencapsulation is becoming increasingly important in the cosmetics, pharmaceutical and food industries.
mzr micropumps from HNP Mikrosysteme are ideal for microencapsulation, as they meet the particular requirements of dynamic, fine, constant dosing with low pulsation and shear stress. Indeed, the prerequisite for the manufacture of microcapsules is the use of extremely precise and repeatable dosing techniques. These micropumps thus provide a safe and appropriate technical solution for the manufacture of pearls or beads encapsulating active ingredients.
Several parameters are required to produce identical quality microcapsules. Flow accuracy, for which the manufacturer claims a tolerance of less than 1 %, is therefore essential for the quality of these capsules. As for viscosity, that of the capsule shell is often in excess of 10,000 mPas, which HNP Mikrosysteme pumps handle perfectly, since they can go up to viscosities of 1,000,000 mPas.
What's more, the manufacturer's pumps operate without shear stress, ensuring that the fluid is not damaged and that cells or suspensions remain intact.
Pumps such as the mzr-11508 or mzr-6305 are therefore ideal for microcapsule production. Both pumps can also be heated.
HNP Mikrosysteme also produces other pumps and several dosing systems. The manufacturer's range covers dosing from 0.25 µl and volumetric flow rates from 1 µl/h to 1,152 ml/min. Whether in the research laboratory or in production, these fluidic solutions can handle liquids of very different types and textures, with low or high viscosity, low or high aggression, lubricating or non-lubricating, single or multi-phase, at very low or very high temperatures and pressures.
HNPM also manufactures customized fluid systems.
