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Stéphanie Lumbers appointed Director of Sustainable Development at FEBEA

The FEBEA (Fédération des Entreprises de la Beauté) continues to strengthen its expertise and services in terms of ecological transition with the arrival of Stéphanie Lumbers, 43, as head of the Sustainable Development Department.

A graduate of Mines ParisTech (specialized in environment and sustainable development), EDHEC Business School, and the University of Nice (Bachelor's degree in Cellular Biology and Physiology), Stéphanie Lumbers has used this dual scientific and commercial skill in much of her career.
She developed an expertise in the cosmetics sector through her entrepreneurial experience in 2003 as co-founder of a skincare brand. Within the Hygiene-Beauty BU of La Brosse & Dupont, she contributed from 2010 to 2020 to the strategy of the offer and the commercial development of the brands she was responsible for, as product manager and then marketing manager. Before joining the FEBEA, Stéphanie Lumbers was in charge of Packaging and Circular Economy at the ECOCERT Group.

Within the sustainable development department of the FEBEA, created 10 years ago, Stéphanie Lumbers is in charge of supporting the 350 cosmetic companies members of the FEBEA in the deployment of sustainable practices, through the following missions
- Provide members with regulatory and technical expertise on packaging and circular economy, environmental footprint, biodiversity, carbon and climate.
- To define with the members the positions and strategies of the sector in terms of sustainable development.
- Federating companies, facilitating cooperation, coordinating and managing joint R&D projects and pooling resources.

In-Cosmetics Global, French Pavilion: 115 companies under the aegis of Cosmetic Valley

The Cosmetic Valley France Pavilion will host some 115 companies from the French sector at this major event for the global perfumery and cosmetics industry.

After several postponements due to the pandemic, the In-Cosmetics Global trade show dedicated to cosmetic raw materials and services is back in Paris!

Organizing the French Pavilion, Cosmetic Valley will be present on 1300 m2 with 115 exhibitors showcasing their cutting-edge expertise in ingredients and measurement.

Three regional groups (Région Centre-Val de Loire, Nouvelle Aquitaine, Bretagne) and companies from all over France will be present in the aisles. A Business France/Team France Export space will be set up on the cluster's institutional reception area, where meetings with international buyers will be organized (23 international buyers have confirmed their attendance).

The show will be an opportunity for Cosmetic Valley to reunite with its partners in the Global Cosmetic Cluster, and to forge new international links, in particular by welcoming a Polish and a Peruvian delegation.

On his return from French Guiana, where the cluster has just opened its fourth branch, Christophe Masson, the cluster's managing director, will give a talk on the dynamics of cosmetopoeia on April 5 at 2:00 pm.

Note that, according to a new report published by Allied Market Research, the global cosmetic chemicals market was valued at 14.7 Bn$ in 2019, and is expected to reach 24.1 Bn$ by 2027, with a growth rate of 6.5 % from 2020 to 2027... Figures that illustrate the importance of this event for the French perfumery-cosmetics industry.

Sensient Cosmetic Technologies becomes Sensient Beauty

Sensient Beauty's aim is to provide products and expertise in multi-sensory beauty and personal care applications.

Sensient Technologies' cosmetics subsidiary, Sensient Cosmetic Technologies, suppliers of sensory, functional and active ingredients for the personal care market, has announced a rebranding to Sensient Beauty.

Since 2018, new beauty opportunities responding to new consumer interests have begun to emerge. Naturalness and safety attributes have come to the fore. Demand for hair care products and multi-sensory beauty experiences such as products with innovative textures has increased.

According to Mike Geraghty, President of Sensient Color, "the constant evolution of colors, textures and ingredients in the personal care market is a beautiful thing and fits perfectly with Sensient's strengths and innovation." "We continually assess market and consumer trends to develop products that meet preferences and needs. Opportunities are important."he adds.

Sensient's former brand was primarily focused on the color cosmetics segment of the beauty and personal care market in North America and Europe. It focused primarily on the end-makeup market, especially during the booming cosmetic years from 2013 to 2017, but also maintained an innovation channel for skin and hair care products with a strong impetus on naturalness and sustainability. In the northern Asia-Pacific region, Sensient is a highly regarded supplier of innovative skincare ingredients. Gaelle Frere, Managing Director of Sensient Beauty, states: "Asian skincare routines and textures are still coming to the U.S. and Europe. We decided it was time to deploy the knowledge we gained in Asia-Pacific on a global scale."

A new microbiome-friendly ingredient

Roquette Beauté unveils its new microbiome-friendly ingredient at in-cosmetics Global 2022 in Paris: Beauté by Roquette DE 006 is a 100 % plant-based ingredient, soothing for skin and scalp, which also preserves the diversity of the cutaneous microbiome.

On the occasion of the in-cosmetics Global trade show, taking place in Paris from April 5 to 7, 2022, Roquette Beauté is presenting its new ingredient Beauté By Roquette DE 006, INCI Dextrin, to the cosmetics industry. With Beauté By Roquette DE 006, Roquette Beauté is responding to growing consumer demand for effective, naturally-derived, soothing products for the skin and scalp that preserve the diversity of their cutaneous microbiome.

With an average skin surface area of 2 m², our skin's microbiome is the largest and probably the most diverse. Maintaining its harmony is essential to preserve our skin barrier and avoid skin problems such as inflammation, lack of hydration or sensitive skin.

Every individual has a unique skin microbiota. Many external factors can weaken and influence its balance: temperature variations, UV exposure, pollution, aggressive or synthetic products and lifestyle.

In recent years, consumers have become aware that their skin problems may be associated with an imbalance in the cutaneous microbiota; they now want their skin and scalp care products to combine efficacy and naturalness, while respecting the microbiome.

Beauté by Roquette DE 006: a soothing agent for skin and scalp derived from plants, certified microbiomefriendly.

Beauté by Roquette DE 006 is a Dextrin 100 % of plant origin, Cosmos and Natrue certified and suitable for vegan formulations. According to Roquette Beauté, it's the ideal ally for fragile, sensitive skin and scalps.

Various tests have been carried out to demonstrate the benefits of the ingredient Beauté by Roquette DE 006, according to Roquette Beauté:

  • it reduces the marker of inflammation (IL-1 alpha),
  • reduces insensible water loss (IWL/TEWL) induced by chemical and mechanical aggression,
  • significantly reduces redness induced by chemical aggression, 
  • helps soothe the skin and scalp,
  • preserves the diversity of skin microflora.

"The addition of Beauté by Roquette DE 006 to our range of ingredients is a perfect illustration of our determination to provide the cosmetics industry with innovative plant-based solutions that meet consumer expectations for safer products with the right balance between naturalness and performance. For us, Sustainable Beauty is all about Skin Health and Nutrition. We focus on the development of high-quality, versatile and sustainable plant-derived ingredients, and develop multifunctional solutions combining high performance and sensoriality".says Bénédicte Courel, General Manager of Roquette Beauté.

New ingredients against flaking and fine lines

Givaudan Active Beauty recently announced the launch of Patchoul'Up, a 100 % upcycled active ingredient capable of rebalancing sebum production, eliminating dry flakes and normalizing the scalp microbiome for overall well-being. Sourced responsibly in Indonesia, Patchoul'Up is made by green fractionation from patchouli leaves distilled after their use as raw material in perfume creation.

PatchoulUp- Ingredients - Product info

"For us, upcycling is not just a trend, but a real path to success on our sustainable business journey. Patchoul'Up supports customer and consumer demand for upcycled solutions that preserve precious natural resources while delivering effective benefits."says Fabrice Lefevre, Active Beauty's Director of Innovation and Marketing.

Hyaluronic acid reinvented

Givaudan Active Beauty also offers an ingredient that acts on fine lines, long-lasting hydration, skin mattification and skin texture: Cristalhyal e-Perfection.

GIV AB WB Cristalhyal eP 3 1- Ingredients - Product info

The company says it is reinventing hyaluronic acid (HA) with the launch of this sustainable, patented vectorized complex of bentonite clay and high molecular weight HA (HMW). Engineered by white biotechnology and powered by a modification of the electrostatic charges on the surface of the HA molecule, the triple-action ingredient accesses the skin's deeper layers by electrical attraction to deliver well-aging benefits, long-lasting hydration and mattifying effects.

"Thanks to a proprietary, patented process, bentonite clay can be activated to effectively trap HMW AH molecules in the interstitial space of specific lamellar structures."says Amandine Scandolera, Head of Biological Evaluation for Active Beauty.

Suncare products: Cosmogen accompanies Mimitika

A young French brand that designs sun creams "for sun lovers", Mimitika has taken Cosmogen's Squeeze'n Tint and turned it into a compact, ultra-practical sun product for athletes. 

Its brush tip makes hands-free application simple and easy. Cosmogen's patented On/Off rotary closure allows a small amount of cream to be extracted (On), then applied and the tube closed tightly (Off). The brush is washable in soapy water.

A world expert in innovative, patented application solutions for cosmetics brands, Cosmogen has been innovating for over 35 years. Its expertise is recognized in four complementary fields: packaging with integrated applicators, brushes, application accessories and dispensing, for skincare, make-up, fragrance and hair.

Cosmetic Valley opens a new branch in French Guiana

At the "Trees and other plants of the cosmetopoeia" conference held in Cayenne on 28, 29 and 30 March, organized by CIRAD in partnership with the cluster, Cosmetic Valley, the Territorial Collectivity of French Guiana and its development agency Guyane Développement Innovation (GDI) signed an agreement to create "Cosmetic Valley Guyane", a new branch of the cluster that will be in charge, in particular, of developing the Amazonian cosmetopoeia and the cosmetics industry in French Guiana. This signature extends the framework contract signed in 2018 between the same partners, and completes a rapprochement marked by the election to the board of the cluster, in 2021, of two directors from this overseas territory: the University of Cayenne and the company Bio Stratège.

This is the fifth major location for Cosmetic Valley, which is now present in Chartres (headquarters) for the Centre/Val-de-Loire region and the whole of France, in Caen for Normandy, in Bordeaux for New Aquitaine, in Brussels to strengthen ties with the European Union, and in Cayenne for French Guiana.

"The signing of this winning agreement marks a very important step forward for Cosmetic Valley. By opening a branch in French Guiana, the cluster aims to strengthen French excellence in the field of raw materials and to contribute to the development of overseas territories by relying on the concept of cosmetology. Here in Cayenne, in this beautiful department which has one of the largest natural wooded areas in one piece, there is marine and terrestrial wealth, authentic and safe ingredients, a respect for biodiversity that protects the planet at a time when our customers are demanding naturalness, a well-being that is not unethical, local and clean production. These are the characteristics of the Guyanese cosmetics industry. To succeed in our ecological transition and expand our network, but also to increase the international and continental influence of the territory, to increase its employment rate and its growth, to lead it in a process of excellence, our cooperation makes sense: that of a step forward.said Marc-Antoine Jamet, President of Cosmetic Valley.

"The Cosmetic Valley cluster aims to be a world leader in the perfumery and cosmetics industry and to be a natural driver of the French industry. I am delighted to sign an agreement to promote the creation of a branch called: Cosmetic Valley Guyana. I am especially pleased to see the emergence of a Guianese and Amazonian cosmetics, and to see the number of jobs in the cosmetics sector on our territory. And you will allow me to emphasize first of all, the requirement of respect for local knowledge accumulated by local populations, and that, if each link of the value chain is concerned, we must nevertheless pay particular attention to the upstream, that is to say to the producers on whom all the constraints rest. I would also like to emphasize the profound coherence of our action: it is one and the same impetus that leads us to want more autonomy in the conduct of our internal affairs (and especially our development policy), and that dictates a strategy of valorization of our natural resources.continued Gabriel Serville, President of the Territorial Collectivity of Guyana.

Cosmetopoeia in the French overseas territories, a priority for the Cosmetic Valley cluster

In order to meet the requirements of natural cosmetic products, product formulas are increasingly incorporating bio-sourced ingredients of natural origin. Sourcing natural raw materials that respect biodiversity and are based on dialogue with producing countries is now a priority. Initiated by Cosmetic Valley in French Polynesia about ten years ago, the cosmetopoeia program is the subject of numerous R&D projects and theses around the world, in partnership with universities in several countries: Gabon, Madagascar, Mayotte, and especially Guyana, with the "Valorextra" project, which aims to research molecules from five species of the Guiana wood industry to formulate a cosmetic anti-oxidant, and the Cayenne congress.

"The development of cosmetopoeia throughout the world, in partnership with local authorities and research institutions, represents a formidable lever for the development of knowledge on plants, a tool for the conservation of biodiversity and traditional uses of plants, and a means of raising public awareness of climate issues. It allows for an awareness of territorial wealth and the implementation of global strategies for research, training, and responsible economic development. Cosmetic Valley has made the development of cosmetology in overseas territories a priority: the presence of French territories on all continents offers "Made in France" the ability to enhance a rich and still little known biodiversity. The consideration of cosmetopoeia by each of these territories represents a tremendous asset to preserve their richness and establish sustainable economic sectors.says the competitiveness cluster.

Paris Packaging Week will be held on June 29 and 30

Paris Packaging Week opens its doors on June 29 and 30 at Porte de Versailles, pavilion 7.2. Under this new name, PCD, the benchmark trade show for perfumes, cosmetics and skincare, ADF, an expert in aerosols and dispensing systems, and PLD, a specialist in premium beverages, will come together. After a remotely scheduled 2021 edition and a postponement from January 2022 to June of the same year, the Paris Packaging Week event is more eagerly awaited than ever. Professionals from the beauty, premium beverage, aerosol and dispensing systems sectors, on both the brand and supplier sides, have already booked their two days to come and meet, get inspired and imagine the packaging of tomorrow.

New dates and a new identity: a show designed to bring people together

The first edition under this identity, it is part of a continuity. Launched in 2001, PCD will be celebrating its 21e edition, ADF, inaugurated in 2007, its 15e edition, and PLD, which joined them in 2020, its 2e edition. The new name is accompanied by a new design and reinforced ambitions. Paris Packaging Week has been given a colorful, dynamic new look: a banner bringing together three complementary sectors, united by powerful synergies and shared issues.
Through this change of image and name, Easyfairs, the event's organizer, is responding to the expectations of a community of professionals who want to be connected and benefit from increased visibility in the high-end and luxury packaging innovation markets.

Paris Packaging Week and the new identities of ADF, PCD and PLD will create a new experience, both at face-to-face events and throughout the year via our digital channels, for all those involved in packaging innovation. "said Renan Joël, division manager for Easyfairs' packaging exhibitions in the UK, France, Italy and Switzerland.

New name, new design

The new Paris Packaging Week graphic identity was created by London-based design agency Butterfly Cannon, experts in the premium and luxury sectors. Art director Adam Ellis describes the work of his teams as follows: " Easyfairs asked us to create a unique, customizable brand identity that reflects both the precision and passion of its groundbreaking events. The hyper-real photography reflects the individual personalities of the different events and the visceral sense of excitement one feels when visiting a show, while the bespoke typography unifies the different events into a cohesive family. "
This new branding now defines the identity of the Paris, London and Milan shows. It presents a coherent offering for brands and suppliers alike.

An eagerly awaited summer edition

The health situation having forced us to postpone the event, usually the first of the year in the calendar, it will now take place at the beginning of summer. This new date will provide an opportunity to meet at another key time of the year, one that is conducive to inspiration.
We're delighted with the enthusiasm of both exhibitors and the public. 650 suppliers, including international companies, have reserved their stands. 10,000 participants are expected over the two days. We're three months away from this major event, and pre-registration rates are excellent. "said Josh Brooks, Director of Paris Packaging Week.

 Highlights of Paris Packaging Week 2022

New at the show: the Innovation Awards gallery

 " We have enriched our program of highlights to better meet the expectations of show visitors and to showcase the excellence of our exhibitors. New this year is our Trends Gallery. In conjunction with our Innovation Awardsfive key trends, such as eco-responsibility, recharging, personalization, .... The gallery will feature award and certificate winners, as well as a number of other outstanding achievements, to inspire visitors. Located in the ADF area, it will bring together the three branches of the show, creating links and bridges between these close and complementary worlds. "explains Christelle Anya, Community & Content Manager for Paris Packaging Week.

Events within events 

As in previous years, your visit to the show will be punctuated by a number of highlights and must-see areas:

  • The Pentawards Gallery This annual international packaging design competition celebrates its winners.
  • The Spaces for socializing and networking the champagne bar and the cocktail loungeand the evening of the first day are conducive to bonding and relaxed sharing.
  • The three ceremonies Innovation Awards The awards ceremony is eagerly awaited by brands and suppliers alike. The SCI awards will take place on Wednesday, and the ADF and PLD awards on Thursday.
  • L'Ecotour This year's event will feature a guided tour of innovations in the field of eco-responsibility, to help customers create the perfect packaging for their product and their CSR commitments.

Honneur to the students!

Future packaging professionals are honored through partnerships with leading schools in the sector. Two competitions have been launched: the ESEPAC/ESP Student Competition, for its 6e and the first-ever ESIReims Student Challenge.

  • 6e edition of the ESEPAC/ESP Student Competition sponsored by Estée Lauder Companies.

ESEPAC and ESP students brainstormed around the topic "How to reinvent unique, luxurious and sustainable consumer experiences for the luxury fragrance market?". Their challenge was to propose "radical to disruptive" projects. The projects were presented on stage and exhibited on the schools' stand. The competition was sponsored by Marc Lechanoine, Global Senior Vice President Creative Design & Packaging Innovation at The Estée Lauder Companies Inc.

We are proud to organize the ESEPAC/ESP competition, and to unveil the student projects for 2021 at the show. The partnerships established with these schools grow stronger every year. These competitions confirm our role in helping to reveal the players and talents of tomorrow in the packaging world. "said Christelle Anya.

  • 1er ESIReims student challenge, with Shiseido and HudaBeauty

Paris Packaging Week and ESIReims offered their students the chance to take part in two packaging design competitions organized in collaboration with two prestigious brands. HudaBeauty's challenge was to completely reinvent a palette of 18 shades by making it refillable and recyclable, or to rethink the secondary packaging of the brand's flagship fragrance "Kayali" by integrating eco-design and industrialization into the project. 

The Shiseido brand, for its part, focused on very precise specifications. Students in their 3rd year at ESIReims were asked to revisit the WASO range dedicated to GEN Z. 

Working with companies has been part of ESIReims' DNA for 40 years. The challenge proposed by Huda Beauty and Shiseido is a real opportunity for ESIReims to ask its engineering students to respond to concrete industrial issues. The subjects are fascinating, and the challenge immense. It's a pleasure for us to respond, especially since the investment of our partner brands is remarkable. "said Serge Odof, Director of ESIReims.

Conferences to shed light on current issues

Paris Packaging Week is devoting three rooms to conferences and round tables. These will feature contributions from industry experts on key topics of interest to brands and suppliers alike.

Major themes specific to the three clusters have already been announced:
PCD conferences Recyclability in the cosmetics industry, progress and challenges for small organic cosmetics brands...
ADF conferences major trends in aerosols, changes brought about by sustainable development, regulatory developments...
PLD conferences The next market challenges, e-commerce, anti-counterfeiting, teleworking...

Not to be missed : June 29At the opening of the PCD Innovation Awards ceremony, Franck Marilly, President and CEO of Shiseido Europe and Global Fragrance, will talk about his vision of sustainable development and the future of the group's packaging. Also to be followed is an exclusive interview with Michel Fontaine, President of CNE (Comptoir National de l'Emballage) and Jacques Playe, Global Director of Packaging and Product Development at L'Oréal. 

Complete and detailed program on www.parispackagingweek.com

A new logistics solution for cosmetics professionals

Dachser, an international provider of transport and logistics solutions, will be at the in-cosmetics Global trade fair in Paris from April 5 to 7 to present its new industrial solution, Dachser Cosmetics Logistics, tailored to the needs of customers in the cosmetics sector.

France is the world's leading exporter of cosmetics, with 16 billion products exported every year. According to Dachser, the country offers the ideal scope for the launch of its new solution for the cosmetics industry. The roll-out of Dachser Cosmetics Logistics will continue in Germany in the second half of 2022, and in strategic markets thereafter.

Some 50 % of French cosmetics exports go to Germany, the UK, Spain and Italy. Between 2019 and 2021, cosmetics sales in Dachser France and Maghreb increased by 25 %.

A customized response to the sector's challenges

To support this growth, Dachser has set up a customized transport and logistics solution. "Thanks to its logistics expertise, combined with a strong global network, Dachser Cosmetics Logistics is the ideal partner for the distribution of cosmetic products in all European and major global markets, depending on the needs of each company."says Bruno Guillard, Corporate Business Development Manager, Dachser Cosmetics Logistics.

Backed by a well-established sustainable approach and a first-rate safety and security policy, assessed by Ecovadis and certified Full AEO, Dachser Cosmetics Logistics also offers comprehensive warehousing services and customized value-added services such as pallet unstacking, returns and unsold goods management, display installation and reloading, box creation and retrieval, etc.

Dachser Cosmetics Logistics meets the needs of perfume and toiletries manufacturers, wholesalers and retailers of perfumes and beauty products, whether or not they belong to an association such as Cosmetic Valley, Cosmed or Innov Alliance in France.

The Dachser Cosmetics Logistics solution will be presented in detail to industry professionals at in-cosmetics Global.

Two winners for the 2022 edition of "The Cosmetic Victories" international competition

The Cosmetic Victories is a global competition and a benchmark for innovation. Its aim is to highlight the most promising research projects in the cosmetics industry, whether they come from French or foreign start-ups, SMEs or academic laboratories. 

Several panels of international experts first examined some 80 Cosmetic Valley-registered projects from 18 countries.

The six teams still in the running for the final of the 7th edition were then heard by a jury presided over by Marc-Antoine Jamet, President of the competitiveness cluster, who unveiled the winners of the 2022 prize list at a ceremony broadcast on Cosmetic Valley TV on March 22.

Dr Sami Halila, a researcher at the Centre de Recherches sur les Macromolécules Végétales (CNRS Grenoble, France), is the winner of the Prix Académique for his Carbogel project. a Simple and Eco-Friendly Carbohydrate-Based Gelling Agent for Oily Phase. "

The project focuses on the supramolecular gelation of organic liquids, such as oils, solvents or fatty esters, by monosaccharide derivatives that self-assemble into a 3D network. The "sweet" gelators are synthesized by an eco-friendly and efficient method (reaction in water). Gelling is performed by sonication, or by heating/cooling, or by dilution. The gel can be used as a stimuli-sensitive matrix for the controlled delivery of cosmetic agents. Carbogel contributes to "green" and sustainable cosmetics by limiting our environmental and social impact.

The Industry Prize was awarded to Stefan Mazy, President and Founder of Derma Health Solutions Pty Ltd (Australia), for his SkinRNA Micro-cell Test project. A world first, this epigenetic diagnostic test can be repeated in patches and laboratories, and quantifies the effectiveness of skin care products through real-time gene expression activity. The device collects over 15,000 genes, while its algorithms provide gene expression activity scores for skin functions including collagen and elastin production, and skin inflammation. After product intervention, a second test is performed to measure new gene activity against the initial benchmarks. Consumers can then repeat the tests at regular intervals to monitor skin improvement at the genetic level without waiting for visible signs.

Photo: left, Dr Sami Halila; right, Stefan Mazy.

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