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Beiersdorf announces first cosmetic product with recycled CO2

Nivea Men uses ethanol obtained from recycled carbon dioxide in its new moisturizing cream. 

This moisturizing cream - Nivea Men Climate Care - contains a total of 14 % of ethanol obtained by alternative methods. In addition, the formula is 100 % free of microplastics, silicones, mineral oils and PEG/PEG derivatives. This men's skin care product is climate-neutral* and manufactured using electricity from 100 % renewable sources. Its formula is 99 % biodegradable and its packaging is fully recyclable. 

Carbon Capture and Utilization (CCU) is a multi-stage CO2 recycling technology. Firstly, carbon dioxide is collected from places such as industrial smokestacks and directed into a bioreactor, where it is then fermented and converted into cosmetic ethanol. 

"This new men's skincare product featuring innovative CO2 recycling technology represents an important milestone for us, says Jean-François Pascal, Vice President Sustainable Development at Beiersdorf. The name 'Climate Care' is very apt, as our commitment to sustainable development goes far beyond our skincare products and places climate action at the heart of our approach."

"Our ambition is to offer consumers the best possible product quality at all times. To achieve this, we combine our deep scientific expertise with the latest technologies such as this type of artificial photosynthesis, says Gitta Neufang, Corporate Senior Vice President Global R&D at Beiersdorf. I'm delighted that our product developers have launched this innovative men's skincare concept with our partners, and that they have been the first in our sector to bring it to market. This is an impressive milestone that will no doubt be followed by further developments in this direction."

Beiersdorf has set itself one of the most ambitious carbon reduction targets in the industry. The company aims to achieve a Group-wide absolute reduction of 30 % in Scope 1 and 2 carbon emissions and 10 % in Scope 3 emissions by 2025 (using 2018 as a baseline). These targets have been recognized by the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) and are in line with scientific demands to limit global warming to 1.5°C.

Nivea Men Climate Care moisturizer will be launched on the German market in early June 2022, starting with a limited edition in pharmacies and online retailers. 

*Offsetting of remaining CO2 emissions through certified climate projects. 

Adrien Geiger (L'Occitane) awarded by the WEG in the category CSR Commitment

The WEG France has rewarded Adrien Geiger, Brand Director of L'Occitane en Provence and CSO of the L'Occitane group, with an Achiever Award in the "CSR Commitment" category.

Since arriving at L'Occitane in 2014, joining the family entrepreneurial adventure, Adrien Geiger has been keen to promote innovation and commitments to more sustainable growth that benefits nature and society. Spearheading regenerative agriculture, he energetically supports projects to protect natural ecosystems, alongside the group's 10,000 employees and 15,000 partner producers, but also with players committed to biodiversity, convinced that the cosmetics industry has its part to play for a better world.

On April 12, on the occasion of the 9ᵉ edition of the WEG Achiever Awards, an evening entirely dedicated to beauty talent that brings together over 200 industry professionals every year, Adrien Geiger was awarded the "CSR Commitment" prize. From corporate careers to entrepreneurial daring, from leaders to young nuggets, the Achiever Awards recognize the dynamism, creativity, innovation and vision of the beauty players who drive the industry forward.

An international, women's and solidarity-based network, particularly active in France, the CEW initiates a network of expert and benevolent networking and enrichment, a space for sharing experiences and a humanist think-tank, towards a future of beauty that is innovative, responsible and connected to changes in society.

New ingredients from upcycling

At In-Cosmetics Global, held in Paris from April 5 to 7, 2022, Biolie presented five new ingredients developed with its patented enzymatic extraction ecoprocess:

- Pyr'O (Green Ingredient Award finalist): natural organic pear water active to replace water in cosmetic formulations, with antioxidant properties equivalent to vitamin C.

- Pep'O: natural organic zucchini water with prebiotic properties to replace water in cosmetic formulations.

- Cumb'O: natural organic cucumber water active to replace water in cosmetic product formulation, with prebiotic properties.

- Mirabelle almond oil: the first certified organic vegetable oil for skin and hair care.

- Preservation booster: a natural preservation booster for a natural formulation.

These five new ingredients are the result of upcycling to enhance the value of local by-products. 

Baralan presents its PCR range

Available in three PCR levels (30 %, 60 % and 100 %), Baralan's new closures offer an environmentally-friendly alternative to traditional polypropylene components.

Baralan, a specialist in primary packaging for the cosmetics and beauty industries, will now offer durable components with varying levels of PCR (post-consumer recycled). The range of closures produced at the company's Italian plant, traditionally made from polypropylene, will be available in three PCR levels: a basic level of 30 %, an intermediate level of 60 % and a full level of 100 %. 

The aim: to promote a circular economy for the entire cosmetics packaging industry. The different levels of PCR on offer will enable brands to maintain their desired packaging aesthetics while meeting growing consumer demand for sustainable products. Even customers seeking high-end aesthetics will be able to incorporate a certain amount of PCR into their packaging solutions.

Note: PCR material can be used with existing molds and equipment, enabling brands to switch to more durable products without having to invest in specialized equipment. 

"This launch is extremely exciting for us from a sustainability perspective. It demonstrates our commitment to developing innovative, environmentally-friendly packaging solutions for cosmetics and beauty products that meet the high quality standards our customers and end-users expect, while reducing our impact on the environment, said Maurizio Ficcadenti, Global R&D Director. As our PCR closures mark the beginning of a new era for cosmetics and beauty products, we decided to invest in research and development."

Phytocontrol Group acquires All Phyto

The Phytocontrol group, laboratories specializing in food and environmental safety, announces the acquisition of All Phyto.

Integration of an expert in plant analysis...

Located in the Drôme region and founded in 1998, All Phyto, formerly LPPAM, Laboratoire provençal de plantes aromatiques et médicinales, ensures quality control of medicinal plants, spices, aromatics and ingredients of natural origin used in the manufacture of agri-food, cosmetic, nutraceutical and phytotherapeutic products. It also develops physico-chemical analysis methods; over 500 are currently available to study the identity, purity, composition, authenticity and origin of plant-based products. The laboratory holds "good manufacturing practice" pharmaceutical establishment approval issued by ANSM, is accredited by the Laboratoires section of Cofrac, and is ISO 14001 and ISO17025 certified.

By drawing on All Phyto's unique know-how in the field of phytotherapy, the Phytocontrol group is adding a high value-added offering to its range of services, in response to growing customer demand.

... which enables Phytocontrol to strengthen its Biopharma division 

The acquisition of All Phyto brings growth opportunities and enables Phytocontrol to open up a fourth market within its Biopharma division. Created in 2016, it currently serves 3 industries: crop protection (Agrosciences), cosmetics (Cosmetic) and chemicals (Chemicals & Materials). The acquisition of All Phyto gives it a new dynamic.

"We are proud to join All Phyto, a company whose activities complement those of Phytocontrol. The use of plants is booming, and we wanted to be able to meet the expectations of consumers, who are increasingly attentive to their health and in search of natural products whose origin and composition they want to know".comments Mikaël Bresson, President and founder of Phytocontrol.

With the increasing use of plants leading to fraud, particularly due to the disappearance of certain species, it is essential to guarantee their authenticity. Edmond Bourny, President of All Phyto, will be speaking at the 2nd edition of the international Food Risk symposium organized by Phytocontrol on June 8 and 9, on this theme and that of food safety.

Photo: Edmond Bourny, President of All Phyto and Mikaël Bresson, President of Phytocontrol © Phytocontrol

Juliette gets closer to Pimpant and expands its offer of natural products for the home

Juliette, an eco-responsible skincare and hygiene brand, has announced the acquisition of Pimpant, a natural alternative to traditional household products, at 100 %. This affinity and strategic alliance will enable Juliette to accelerate its growth in the home market, just a few months after its launch, thanks to a range of proven products in line with its values.

Since December 2020, Juliette has been developing natural and healthy products for the home. After having launched a first range of dilutable powder products for the bathroom (JU, in November 2021), she acquires Pimpant and will add 20 references on juliette.com. An operation that is based above all, according to the company, on common values and the quality of products developed by the brand of linen care, dish care and natural home care since 2018.

"After the bathroom, our objective was to turn to the other rooms of the house, starting with the laundry room and the kitchen. Our meeting with Amandine and Pierre de Pimpant was decisive, especially because our approaches are very similar. A primary concern for the planet, more transparency for the consumer, the promotion of French know-how and a desire to do things in a positive way... these are the principles/leitmotivs that drive us on a daily basis and that we wish to make last through Juliette, for future generations.says Karline Hamain, co-founder of Juliette.

Juliette's entire catalog will continue to be developed in France, with Normandy as the home base from where all orders will be shipped. Juliette also plans to increase Pimpant's activity by a factor of 5 compared to 2021 and to achieve a turnover of 5 million euros by 2022.

Arcade Beauty replicates the experience of Clarins Lip Comfort Oil

For its new lip oil, the Clarins brand entrusted Arcade Beauty with the development of a sample capable of translating the exact experience of the product sold.
The colors pop, the shine is extreme, the lips are full and happy... Clarins Lip Comfort Oil is applied to the lips with a soft and precise gesture.
Arcade Beauty took up the challenge of integrating the applicator of the sales product in its sample in order to offer the consumer the same make-up experience. "We developed this sample to preserve the unique sensoriality of our Lip ComfortOil with a soft and cocooning applicator" explain Clarins teams.
This is a thermoformed replica of the product sold in a printed cardboard insert. Simply break off the top tip to release the foam applicator and apply the color.
The custom-designed sample is manufactured and packaged by one of the group's French sites.

Upcycled coffee silverskin for deep skin comfort

SLVR'Coffee™ is the first upcycled ingredient based on coffee silverskin, the main by-product of the coffee roasting process. Efficacy studies have shown that SLVR'Coffee™ improves skin resilience by strengthening the skin barrier function, thus moisturizing and protecting the skin from irritation. Therefore, choosing upcycled SLVR'Coffee™ will comfort the skin and additionally benefit the environment.

Coffee and coffee silverskin

Coffee is consumed all over the world and provides energy, conviviality as well as comfort, and has a strong wellbeing and mood-boosting effect. It is prepared from roasted coffee beans, the seeds of the fruits from the coffee plant. The coffee seed is surrounded by the coffee silverskin, a very thin, silver-shining envelope protecting the seeds from stress. During the roasting process, the coffee silverskin falls off and represents the main by-product accumulating in the coffee roasters.

Upcycling from coffee silverskin to SLVR'Coffee™

Due to the high consumption of coffee worldwide, 200-400 million kg of coffee silverskin is generated annually and most of it is simply discarded. Innovative solutions such as upcycling waste materials contribute to a circular economy. CO2 extraction of coffee silverskin allows the recovery of valuable molecules for the skin that can be used in a high-quality active ingredient, while helping to reduce waste. The coffee silverskin extract is dissolved in organic and Union for Ethical Biotrade (UEBT)-certified shea butter, yielding to our upcycled active ingredient SLVR'Coffee

Bio-inspired solution for skin barrier functionality 

The outermost layer of the skin is the stratum corneum, the most important mediator of the skin barrier. Main functions of the skin barrier are protection against external aggressors and water retention. A disturbed skin barrier is manifested by scaly and dry skin, which causes uncomfortable sensations. SLVR'Coffee is Mibelle Biochemistry's bio-inspired solution to comfort the skin. SLVR'Coffee mimics the natural strategy for protecting the coffee seed, developed by the coffee plant to improve the epidermal barrier. 

Coffee silverskin extract improves skin barrier resilience

To investigate the effect of the molecules recovered from the coffee silverskin, keratinocytes were treated with coffee silverskin extract and subsequently gene expression of skin physiology candidates were analyzed. Treatment with coffee silverskin extract increased the expression of CALML5 (calmodulin-like protein 5), FLG (filaggrin) and SPRR1A (small proline-rich protein 1A), all of which are involved in the cornification process that is important for the skin barrier. In conclusion, the valuable molecules from the coffee silverskin have a beneficial effect on skin barrier functionality and antioxidant properties.

SLVR'CoffeeTM protects from external skin aggression 

Since the coffee silverskin extract showed improved regulation of skin barrier genes, a clinical study was conducted to elucidate the protective impact of SLVR'Coffee against irritations. The volunteers applied a cream containing 2% SLVR'Coffeeand a corresponding placebo. After 7 days irritation was induced either by capsaicin or SLS patches. Immediately after removal of the patches transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements were performed to evaluate water homeostasis. Notably, after both skin irritations, the increase in TEWL was lower in SLVR'Coffee-treated conditions compared to placebo, confirming that SLVR'Coffee protects the skin from external aggressors by strengthening the skin barrier. 

SLVR'Coffee™ rehydrates dry skin

To investigate whether the improved skin barrier function also results in increased skin hydration, a clinical study was conducted on volunteers with dry or very dry skin on their legs. As expected, application of SLVR'Coffee for 28 days improved skin hydration compared to the placebo by 33.1%. Using a questionnaire, all volunteers (100%) indicated that their skin was more hydrated and less dry after treatment with SLVR'Coffeewhich underscores that SLVR'Coffee has an intensely moisturizing and rehydrating effect.

To summarize, SLVR'Coffee is a bio-inspired active ingredient based on upcycled coffee silverskin to moisturize and comfort delicate skin. Mibelle Biochemistry captures the emotional connection to coffee whilst providing the skin with beneficial molecules found in coffee beans to improve the skin barrier function. With SLVR'Coffeeeco-conscious consumers have the choice of an upcycled ingredient to promote circular economy and to soothe their dry skin.

Expanscience launches a new active ingredient Calybiota Bio

Expanscience, an independent, family-owned French company with a mission and B Corp certification, is launching Calybiota Bio, a new COSMOS-certified active ingredient. Furthermore, committed to responsible supply chains, Expanscience has provided financial and technical support to the Chinese cooperative that harvests Schisandra berries in Sichuan (Sweetone Bio active ingredient) for FairWild certification. This is the first time a cooperative has obtained this certification in China. Expanscience had also obtained the Fair for Life label for its Macaline and Skinhairgium Bio actives, sourced from the maca chain in Peru, (2019) and for its organic illipe butter sourced in Indonesia (2021).

Calybiota Bio, a natural 100% active ingredient that rebalances the skin's microbiota

An extract rich in polysaccharides from the calyxes of the Red Kapok tree, sourced in Africa, Calybiota Bio is COSMOS-certified by Ecocert. Particularly recommended in intimate care and hygiene cosmetics, a clinical study* has demonstrated its role in protecting vaginal flora. The study revealed a prebiotic effect on this flora, a reduction in inflammation and feelings of discomfort, hydration of the intimate area and improved sexual comfort. Calybiota Bio is also recommended for acne-prone, atopic/eczematous or hypersensitive skin, as well as for deodorant formulas. This active ingredient helps protect and maintain the balance of the skin's microbiota.

FairWild, a certification guaranteeing the sustainability of wild resources and respect for local communities

In line with its "impACT" CSR approach, Expanscience has also supported FairWild certification for its wild Schisandra berry harvesting chain, from which the Sweetone Bio anti-imperfection active ingredient is extracted.
One of the main aims of this certification is to guarantee the sustainability of the management of non-cultivated resources. Schisandra sphenanthera is a wild climbing plant native to central and western China, and also found in Korea and Japan.
It is referenced in traditional Chinese medicine. As a common resource for cosmetic ingredients, non-cultivated plants must be carefully managed to ensure compliance with rigorous, reasoned practices that respect the resource and its habitat. This management ensures that the quantities harvested are in line with the quantities available, and that harvesting practices guarantee the renewal and preservation of the resource and its environment.
The first pharmaceutical and dermo-cosmetic laboratory and the first supplier of cosmetic ingredients to be B Corp certified in 2018, Expanscience has been a member of the Union for Ethical BioTrade (UEBT) since 2011. Now a "company with a mission", the company is committed to working for the common good through its raison d'être "helping individuals shape their well-being" and has set itself a series of social and environmental objectives such as contributing "to achieving global climate goals" and "protecting and regenerating biodiversity". Supporting partners in the certification of their supply chains is part of this approach.

* Clinical study conducted with Calybiota. Bio formulated at 1,25% in a cleansing gel and a cream and used in combination every day for 28 days on 4 groups of women (post-vaginosis, post-mycosis, irritation and post-menopause).

Gattefossé receives an award at in-cosmetics for its new active ingredient Solastemis

Three years after the last in-cosmetics Global trade show in Paris, Gattefossé yesterday won the bronze award for best ingredient in the active cosmetics category for its Solastemis innovation. The culmination of several years' research by our experts in sourcing, plant chemistry, cell biology and clinical evaluation.
Solastemis is a powerful active ingredient that protects the skin against UV-induced aging and meets the growing needs of consumers concerned about their skin's health. It acts at the heart of the epidermal machinery, protecting keratinocyte DNA from UVA-induced damage and stimulating DNA's natural repair capacity. In so doing, it preserves epidermal stem cells and ensures long-lasting skin health.

The active molecules in Solastemis are extracted from Sechium edule (also known as chayote or christophine), a fruit grown and harvested by hand in accordance with zero-waste principles on Reunion Island.

"This is excellent news, and we're delighted to win this award. Solastemis is the result of several years' research and collaboration between Gattefossé researchers, Lyon Civil Hospitals (HCL), Grenoble University and the French Alternative Energies and Atomic Energy Commission (CEA). It's a highly comprehensive active ingredient that combats photoaging, notably by protecting our cellular DNA and stem cells. We are proud of our teams who have worked long and hard on this ingredient, and we thank the in-cosmetics jury for its decision!" explains Paula Lennon, Group Cosmetics Director.

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