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Scentys: two new high-tech projects presented at VivaTech

site-industries-cosmetiques The hand of a person reaching for a white ball at VivaTech.

After a one-year break, the VivaTech trade show returns from June 16 to 19, 2021 at Paris Expo Porte de Versailles. Scentys, expert in airborne fragrance diffusion and inventor of the patented technology of fragrance in capsules will present its two latest innovations. 

Space perfuming, creation of olfactory experiences, design and manufacture of diffusers and perfumes in capsules... founded in 2004 and thus strong of more than 17 years of experience, this French company combines technological precision with a craft know-how. 

A connected perfume diffuser

With nine patents to its credit, Scentys intends to push back the limits and revolutionize the world of perfumery. The company has designed a connected and intelligent perfume diffuser for the home. This innovation, the result of three years of R&D, is a new gesture in the world of home fragrance.

At any time of the day, Scentys' innovation enables the creation of a unique and easy-to-diffuse fragrance atmosphere through remote control via an application or voice control. An immediately functional solution for brands, this new diffusion technology adapts to all olfactory territories and models itself on the consumer's image.

A contactless perfume diffuser

Scentys also offers a contactless fragrance dispenser. This technology reinvents the customer experience at the point of sale. Thanks to a motion detection system, customers will be able to trigger the contactless fragrance diffusion system with a simple hand gesture for 30 seconds. This is a high-tech solution that meets the security needs highlighted by the health crisis.

Exfolactive boosts natural peeling

site-industries-cosmetiques A diagram illustrating the cell structure reinforced by Exfolactive's natural peeling boost.

Produced from organic nopal flowers, Exfolactive reactivates endogenous desquamation processes, which are altered during aging, for a gentle and effective exfoliating action. The complexion is more radiant and unified, and the skin is hydrated.

Reactivate biological exfoliation

With age, the natural desquamation mechanism slows down, dead cells accumulate on the skin's surface. The complexion becomes dull, the microrelief irregular. In response to this observation, SILAB launched Exfolactive ® in 2005. In 2021, additional efficacy data confirm the ability of this natural active ingredient to :

- Boost the skin's natural exfoliation capacity, which is weakened by aging, by stimulating the activity of desquamation enzymes [1] ;

- promote cell renewal and eliminate scales for an optimal skin barrier function [2] .

Thanks to its effective biological exfoliating action on the face and body, Exfolactive ® allows the epidermis to recover a balance between proliferation and desquamation.

Even out the complexion

After 14 days of application, Exfolactive tested at 2.5% on a Caucasian panel significantly smoothes skin texture (Sa parameter: -7%). The complexion's radiance is improved (radiance: +10% and pink color: +20%) and age spots are reduced (-11%). Moreover, the skin is rehydrated (+24%).

Under the same conditions, Exfolactive decreases by 4.1% the a* parameter, characteristic of the color of the scars present on the cheeks on an Asian panel. The active ingredient also smoothes skin texture (roughness: -8.9%).

A comparative study conducted by SILAB shows that the benefits of this natural organic exfoliation are equivalent to those obtained with the reference molecules used in chemical scrubs (glycolic acid on Caucasian skin and salicylic acid on Asian skin), without their undesirable effects.

The nopal flower, an inspiring raw material

In order to propose a natural solution to reactivate the endogenous pathways of desquamation, SILAB has focused on the nopal (Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill.). Present in the most hostile deserts, this cactus has indeed developed a remarkable capacity to renew itself year after year.

To ensure the traceability of its nopal flowers supply, SILAB has established a partnership in Tunisia, the first country producing this resource. The partner, specialized in organic nopal (Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill.) cultivation, is committed to a responsible Ecocert Fair for Life certification process. Between May and June, farmers harvest and dry the nopal flowers. The dried flowers are then subjected to a controlled hydrolysis allowing the optimal extraction in water of the oligosaccharides of interest.

Exfolactive (Hydrolyzed Opuntia ficus-indica Flower Extract) is a patented product, available in aqueous solution (recommended dose: 2 to 4%). This active ingredient has a content of natural origin greater than or equal to 99% (ISO 16128) and complies with international cosmetic regulations (Europe, USA, Japan, China, etc.).

[1] Tested at 1% on aged keratinocytes or aged reconstructed epidermis (SILABSKIN ® RE), Exfolactive ® increases cathepsin-D activity (+66%), restores kallikrein-5 secretion (+102%) and decreases the secretion of its inhibitor LEKTI (-85%)

[2] Tested in vivo at 2.5% on Caucasian skin, Exfolactive ® promotes the elimination of flaky skin on the face (+10%) after 5 days of treatment and stimulates the skin's exfoliation capacity on the calves (+16%) after 7 days of treatment

CDA celebrates its 30th anniversary

site-industries-cosmetiques A machine in a factory celebrating its 30th anniversary with a purple ball on top.

30 years ago, CDA was a two-person company, with a commitment to adhesive labelling and only one machine in the range. The company has grown with the projects it has been entrusted with and the technologies it has developed.

Between 1992 and 1996, CDA grew from three employees to five, from one labeler in its line to seven.

Four years later, as the world celebrated its entry into the 21st century, CDA developed its labeling techniques to adapt to new product shapes: conical, square, oval... to equip all sectors.

Despite the financial crisis, CDA, with 30 employees at the time, opened a new chapter in 2008 by working on the design of filling machines. Since then, the range of CDA filling machines has grown steadily and now includes seven models.

CDA celebrated its 21st anniversary in 2012 by realizing its American dream with the establishment of CDA USA in Richmond, Virginia.

With this success, CDA launched, three years later, the design of monoblocks: a 3-in-1 machine capable of dosing, capping and labeling small bottles. This innovation quickly found its target and allowed the company to boost its growth.

Growth has been sustained and supported since 2016 by CDU. This 4.0 factory now produces the majority of parts for filling and labeling machines thanks to the acquisition of turning, milling and sawing machines and a robot. 

In 2017: conquest of the German market with the creation of CDA Deutschland.

This year the company celebrates its 30th anniversary with more than 150 employees from France, America and Germany.

The Sulapac Nordic Collection of organic origin evolves to accommodate water-based formulas

site-industries-cosmetiques A bowl of white cream on a piece of organic wood.

Quadpack unveils its most circular packaging to date: a 50ml jar in Sulapac biocomposite material, offering optimized "barrier" technology.
The "Sulapac Nordic Collection by Quadpack" has been extended to include a 50 ml jar suitable for water-based formulas. The range, first launched in August 2020 by Quadpack, an international manufacturer and supplier of packaging for beauty products, includes 15 ml, 30 ml and 50 ml jars designed for anhydrous and oil-based products. The new reference features the new Sulapac "barrier". The result is a totally circular package for aqueous products. The material breaks down without leaving permanent microplastic residues. 

The new 50 ml cosmetic jar offers the ideal size for the most common skincare products, from anti-aging treatments to moisturizers, hair and lip care. The jar's "barrier" properties have been proven and have passed standard weight loss tests* at Quadpack's laboratory in Barcelona, Spain.

Part of Quadpack's QLine portfolio, the Sulapac Nordic Collection is a sustainable alternative to conventional plastic packaging. Made from biocomposites and wood particles, Sulapac is suitable for industrial composting. Designed for beauty brands with a genuine commitment to sustainable development, it is the driving force behind Quadpack's drive to offer packaging with a positive impact on the environment.

The Sulapac Nordic Collection is manufactured in Quadpack's factories in Germany. Available in nine colors, the jars can be decorated by screen or pad printing. The natural texture of the material can remain visible to underline the brand's sustainable approach.
The collection has also been enriched with a 200 ml jar suitable for anhydrous and oily body care formulas, enabling ecologically-minded brands to launch a more complete range.

Quadpack is Sulapac's preferred international partner for cosmetics packaging.

*Below an acceptable weight loss of 3 % with an aqueous emulsion of 73 % at 40°C for 12 weeks, equivalent to a shelf life of one year.

A PE capsule for the oral care market

site-industries-cosmetiques A tube of violet oral care cream.

Albéa has developed a new PE cap to produce single-material packaging ready for recycling, a first in the oral care market. 

This cap is the latest addition to Albéa's range of single-material tubes, taking another step towards its goal of producing 100 % of recyclable tube packaging by 2025. 

Made in Europe, Albéa's PE Full Diameter Cap is a satin-finish screw cap compatible with any 28mm diameter laminated plastic tube. 

This new PE cap replaces traditional PP caps - when combined with a PE skirt and head, the entire single-material package can be recycled through existing rigid HDPE recycling channels. 

The PE Full Diameter Cap enables consumers to dispose of their entire packaging directly in the garbage can. In this way, Albéa supports brands' objective of achieving total recyclability of their packaging, and thus contributes to their commitment to sustainable development. 

In October 2018, Albéa was the first cosmetics packaging supplier to sign the Ellen McArthur Foundation's New Plastics Global Commitment, committing the company to producing 100 % of recyclable, reusable or compostable packaging by 2025. Albéa's PE Full Diameter Cap completes its range of single-material tubes, and forms part of its responsible packaging roadmap. 

Texen and Nocibé, a new-generation mascara

site-industries-cosmetiques Victoria's Secret mascara in pink, a new-generation mascara from Texen and Nocibé.

Nocibé's Vice Versa is a double-effect hybrid mascara. Texen Beauty Partners is once again collaborating with Nocibé, orchestrating the expertise of industrial players at the cutting edge of innovation. The result is a turnkey product.

Vice Versa sets itself apart with a 2-in-1 hybrid brush: a fiber side for volume and a molded plastic side for lash definition. The formula mixes in to tint, lift and shine... The wringer fulfills its contract at 100 %, a package that strikes the perfect balance between aesthetics and practicality.

Texen activates its network of expertise

Acting as the project's prime contractor, Texen brought together the best partners to create "the perfect marriage" between brush, silicone wringer and formula. The challenge of this launch lies above all in the brush, which required specific operations and the development of appropriate tooling. The brush is made with a fiber part and an injected plastic part (TPC ET: thermoplastic polyester elastomer). The process has been patented.

The standard 9-ml bottle is made of PP with a pink anodized aluminum coating and a white screen-printed logo.

This achievement owes its success to the collaborative work initiated by Texen Beauty Partners between the various industrial players. The group's division has confirmed its mascara expertise and its pack and formula competence.

Leveraging the power of fragrance to create positive emotions

site-industries-cosmetiques A woman with a radiant face wearing an uplifting pink perfume.

Firmenich, specialist in fragrances and flavors, has unveiled its EmotiOn program. This offers customers a new set of fragrance tools and solutions to co-create emotionally powerful fragrances for scented products. This approach combines Firmenich's proprietary consumer data gathered from around the world with neuroscience research backed by the expertise of the company's perfumers, helping customers to deliver positive emotions to consumers.

"Olfaction plays an essential role in our lives, conveying emotions and influencing our purchasing behavior, now more than ever.says Ilaria Resta, President of Global Perfumery. Our fragrances accentuate the positive emotions felt by consumers across multiple touch points. We've created this multi-faceted, modular EmotiOn program to help our customers develop perfect product mixes."

The EmotiOn program is as follows:

  • EmotiClaim provides emotional positioning by country and category to ensure that the product speaks to consumers.
  • Emoti360 relies on consumer data to select ingredients and colors with strong emotional power to reinforce value right from the product design stage.
  • EmotiCode defines the creative framework that enables Firmenich perfumers to formulate fragrances that evoke specific emotions in consumers.
  • EmotiBoost is a collection of accords designed to offer positive emotional benefits in three different categories (hair care, laundry and skin cleansers). They cover a broad olfactory spectrum with a range of emotional claims. They have been tested using patented implicit research techniques.

According to Firmenich, this approach is truly unique in that tools and solutions can be combined, enabling us to work holistically.

"Our research into emotions and how they induce buying habits, particularly throughout the pandemic, is really special and endowed with a global vision, says Matteo Magnani, Chief Consumer & Innovation Officer. Our EmotiOn program brings a deep understanding of eleven countries based on consumer data; it enables us to shape fragrances that trigger positive emotions and help our customers reinforce their product benefits with consumers."

The EmotiOn program is the fruit of 25 years of research carried out with scientific partners and renowned universities. Building on this program and its knowledge of consumers, Firmenich aims to create products that tell "relevant" emotional stories. Thanks to its research into the complex interactions of fragrance molecules with hundreds of olfactory receptors located in the nose, the company is able to create products that are "emotionally relevant", "a considerable advantage in terms of understanding the mechanisms of olfaction."

First cosmetics consortium to promote the traceability of natural resources

site-industries-cosmetiques A green leaf with a drop of water on it, promoting the traceability of natural resources.

Eight players in the cosmetics sector have joined forces to form "ADN & Cosmétique", an unprecedented consortium whose aim is to guarantee the best possible traceability of plant raw materials. 
Using a scientific method based on DNA analysis, the consortium members plan to build the first reliable database to guarantee the botanical authenticity of the plant resources used in their products. This cooperative model meets consumers' expectations for transparency and the UN's sustainable development objectives. The members of this consortium are recognized players wishing to commit to more secure supplies and controlled exploitation of plant resources. 

Guaranteeing the authenticity of plant raw materials for cosmetics through DNA analysis

When buying natural raw materials, how can you be sure you're buying the right plant (guaranteeing botanical family, genus and species)? 
Securing supplies is one of the key challenges facing the consumer goods industry, and the cosmetics industry in particular, in line with consumers' growing expectations in terms of safety, authenticity and transparency, in line with the implementation of the Nagoya protocol. DNA analysis technology enables just such traceability. For example, it can be used to distinguish between white lilies (Lilium candidum) and royal white lilies (Lilium regale). 
Scientific work on lavender, an emblematic species in the cosmetics and perfume sectors, is being undertaken by the Consortium. 

Meeting sustainable development objectives

The cosmetics groups and ingredient suppliers in this consortium share the same values of rigor and respect for the consumer and the planet, and have decided to work together to contribute to the common good.
This unprecedented collaborative initiative meets 3 of the 17 MDGs established by the UN to enable companies to take concrete action to accelerate the ecological and inclusive transition, while contributing to the health of all by guaranteeing the absence of fraud in raw materials.

MDG 3: Good health and well-being
DNA analysis allows us to better secure the supply of plant raw materials and thus prevent health risks for consumers.

SDG 12: Responsible consumption and production.
DNA analysis enables us to better secure the production chains of plant raw materials and thus promote sustainable production methods.

ODD 17: Partnerships to achieve the goals
DNA analysis enables us to better secure the production chains of plant raw materials and thus promote sustainable production methods.

Consortium members
Clarins Laboratories
Codif Natural Technology
Greentech
L'Oréal Research & Innovation
LVMH Research
Nuxe Group 
Sederma
DNA Gensee

Initiated in 2018 by DNA Gensee (an innovative genetics VSE founded in 2012, based in Savoie-France), an expert in DNA analysis of plants, algae and beehive products, the "DNA & Cosmetics" Consortium aims to provide models for the cosmetics/perfume sector to ensure the safety of plant raw materials and enable better control of natural resources from plant to consumer. 
Cooperation between competing players in the chain who share the same conviction, as well as their knowledge and know-how, enables progress to be made towards more ethical, more sustainable and, consequently, safer production models.

Stoelzle Masnières signs the new refillable bottle of Sillages Paris

site-industries-cosmetiques A perfume bottle spills onto a purple background adorned with the Stoelzle Masnières sign.

In 2017, after spending 3 years with the biggest luxury brands, Maxime Garcia-Janin decided to create his own brand to offer everyone to compose their own perfume online; a 3.0 revolution to reach a new generation, but not only... A different offer that has met its audience, of all ages! 

At Sillages Paris, we handcraft in Paris the finest perfumes, personalized, formulated with the most beautiful ingredients, ultra-creative and accessible to all. Now, all our perfumes are also sustainable and refillable. ", says Maxime Garcia-Janin, who, since the beginning, is accompanied by 5 talented perfumers: Amélie Jacquin, Mylène Alran, Alex Lee, Nisrine Grillie and Sébastien Plan. 

The Stoelzle team is proud to support Sillages Paris for 5 years. The brand is now equipped with a new exclusive cubic refillable bottle, even more eco-responsible with 45.6 % of recycled glass PCR and PIR, no metallization and laser etching, a signature engraved on the bottom, a UV lacquer. And the use of an unscrewable pump and a screw ring for an optimal recycling of the different elements.

Refillable bottle in 50 ml.

Sarah Reisinger appointed Chief Research Officer of the Firmenich Group

site-industries-cosmetics Sarah Reisinger is appointed Research Director for the Firmenich Group.

 Firmenich, the world's leading private fragrance and flavor company, appoints Sarah Reisinger as Chief Research Officer, effective July 1, 2021. Dr. Reisinger will report to Group CEO Gilbert Ghostine as a member of his executive team, having most recently held the position of Senior Vice President of Research Operations. She succeeds Professor Geneviève Berger, who will remain as strategic advisor to the CEO, before retiring on December 31, 2021. 

In his new role, Dr. Reisinger will lead Firmenich to new frontiers of scientific excellence, drawing on the Group's capital in cutting-edge innovation. 

"Sarah brings a unique combination of world-class experience in research and development management, both in start-ups and large corporations, with a strong background in biotechnology, augmented discovery and open innovation. I'm very proud to welcome her to my management team."said Gilbert Ghostine. "Firmenich is shaping the future of fragrance and taste, and this next-generation appointment demonstrates our commitment to providing our customers with cutting-edge technology and sustainable solutions that meet ever-changing consumer needs." 

"I'm enthusiastic about leading scientific research in changing fields and integrating new technologies, based on our heritage of scientific excellence." said Dr. Reisinger. "Our team's multidisciplinary and global approach to innovation in fragrance, taste and ingredients are huge assets in offering revolutionary solutions to our customers." 

"I would like to warmly thank Professor Berger for successfully expanding the scope of our R&D activity and championing white biotechnology. Under his leadership, we expanded research and strengthened our global footprint in science with new R&D centers, targeted acquisitions, and were the first to commercialize AI-generated solutions in fragrances and flavors."said Gilbert Ghostine. "I will continue to draw on his world-class scientific and business expertise over the coming months." 

Dr. Reisinger has extensive expertise in the field of biotechnology as well as solid experience in the development of ingredients and technologies for the consumer goods sector. Before joining Firmenich in 2018 as VP Biotechnology and Process Engineering, she held key roles at Ginkgo Bioworks, Intrexon and Amyris. She began her career in the field of cancer biology and treatment. Dr. Reisinger holds a B.S. in Biology from Harvey Mudd College, USA, an M.S. in Plant Biology and a Ph.D. in Microbiology from the University of California, Berkeley. 

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