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OVE, an LED beauty mask

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site-industries-cosmetiques A white lamp with an LED face mask.

Lucibel-le recently presented OVE, a Led face mask, designed by Olivier Lapidus.

Founded in 2008 by Frédéric Granotier, Lucibel designs and manufactures in France new generation lighting products and solutions based on LED technology. The company is a pioneer in new applications made possible by LEDs beyond lighting, such as Internet access through light (LiFi) or the restoration of the benefits of natural light indoors (Cronos). Lucibel-le Paris, a subsidiary of the group, is the first company to have designed, manufactured in France and marketed, since the end of 2014, a "home device", in the format of a smartphone, allowing home sessions to treat wrinkles and stretch marks according to the principle of photobiomodulation. Its new product: OVE, a beauty mask based on the same technology.

The body is made up of living cells that constantly absorb and reflect light. Skin cells have the ability to absorb light and convert it into energy. This energy supply leads to a series of chemical reactions that allow the body and face to be remodeled. 

Lifestyle1- Industrial processes - Product info

"LEDs emit a "cold" light in all the colors of the rainbow. The skin, like all our organs, captures this light energy: this is photobiomodulation. Among these colors, red has shown the way. Studied for nearly 30 years, it acts as a "light cream", a true elixir of youth. It boosts cellular respiration, repairs, regenerates, calms, relaxes, rests... "says Michèle Pelletier, dermatologist.

The brand has teamed up with designer Olivier Lapidus to create a mask with new shapes and functions. "When Frédéric Granotier contacted me, the collaboration was obvious. I immersed myself in LED technology, with the idea of embodying it in new product ideas. I'm delighted that the OVE mask is coming to life, with the design characteristics that drive me: contemporary spirit, pure curves, and an inclusive design, for all.said Olivier Lapidus.

ALIGNER- Industrial Processes - Product Info

"Born from this magnificent cooperation with Olivier Lapidus, a genius designer, the OVE mask is designed and manufactured in Barentin (Seine-Maritime) by Lucibel teams. Proud of its French origins, it relies on its elegance and its unequalled performance to conquer the world.said Frédéric Granotier, Lucibel's president and founder, on the occasion of the official launch of the OVE mask.

Presented as simple to use (a single button for a programmed session), OVE uses a cold light, without any risk of burning, to stimulate and regenerate the cells. This mask benefits from the latest technical innovations of Lucibel. With specific light intensities adapted to the different areas of the face, it allows to treat the whole face at a rate of 12 minutes per session, twice a week, for an optimum result according to Lucibel.le. 

Several clinical studies have been conducted. According to the brand, the results obtained validate the benefits of the technology.

One of the studies conducted in 2021 showed that the technology implemented by Lucibel-le significantly reduced the depth of crow's feet wrinkles and reduced the sagging of the oval of the face. The study also concluded that there was an improvement in the evenness of the complexion and a significant increase in the density of the dermis. Results were also reportedly increased when using the Lucibel LED solutions in combination with the "Synergie Led" cosmetic products also offered by the brand.

Beauty through light has been at the heart of the Lucibel group's research and innovation for many years. With the creation of the Lucibel-le brand, the group demonstrates its desire to pursue an ambitious development strategy in the service of beauty and well-being.

Firmenich joins the UEBT and reinforces its commitment to biodiversity and the sourcing of natural ingredients

By
Kristel Milet
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site-industries-cosmetics Firmenich joins the UEBT and reinforces its commitment to biodiversity and the sourcing of natural ingredients.

Firmenich, the world's leading private fragrance and flavor company, becomes a member of the Union for Ethical BioTrade (UEBT), a non-profit association that promotes respectful sourcing. UEBT membership recognizes that Firmenich operates worldwide according to ethical sourcing principles and has developed effective work plans for its supply chains on biodiversity, fair and equitable benefit sharing, local development and labor rights.

"Our Natural Products Centre of Expertise in Grasse has been a member of UEBT since 2014 and now we are proud to join the organization on a global level, having passed their independent assessment with flying colors," said Gilbert Ghostine, CEO of Firmenich. "UEBT is known for setting high standards and working with companies on biodiversity, making this partnership a key step for our ESG 2030 goals on responsible sourcing. By integrating biodiversity protection into all our natural sourcing from 50 countries, we are making a real difference for people, planet and society, and offering our customers the highest quality natural raw materials from sustainable sources."

As a prerequisite for becoming a UEBT member worldwide, Firmenich's commitments to its biodiversity policy and responsible sourcing system have been assessed by the UEBT in accordance with its principles.

"We have designed and agreed a clear work plan with UEBT for the next three years," added Boet Brinkgreve, President of Ingredients. "Our aim is to drive the continuous improvement of local producers in our value chains and to ensure appropriate risk management systems across our natural products sourcing portfolio. Through this collaboration, we also aim to achieve certification for many of our key ingredients by 2030."

Firmenich is also the first company in the world to have obtained, in 2021, the Access and Benefit Sharing (ABS) Due Diligence Verification recently launched by the UEBT, which examined the system used by Firmenich to comply with the rules linked to the Nagoya Protocol on ABS. ABS ensures that benefits arising from biodiversity-based research and development are shared fairly and equitably, including through sustainable practices and collaboration with local communities.

"Firmenich has set clear targets for 2030 for sourcing in a way that respects people and biodiversity," commented Rik Kutsch Lojenga, UEBT Director. "A robust implementation strategy is currently being deployed by Firmenich to ensure that these goals are met and that a positive impact is generated for people and biodiversity. By joining the UEBT, the Firmenich Group commits to continuous improvement by emphasizing local practices in its responsible sourcing due diligence system and supplier support program. We look forward to working with Firmenich on this."

As part of its Naturals Together platform, Firmenich is building its leadership in natural products on three pillars: sustainable sourcing standards; certified ingredient collections with strong involvement at source; and innovation.

Membership of UEBT supports the Group's ambitions for sourcing in a way that respects people and biodiversity.

Menopause: taking into account the hormonal evolution of women for cosmetics

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques A group of elderly women examining a laptop computer while considering hormonal evolution in women for cosmetics.

Anne Charpentier, founder of Skinobs, a company that publishes technical platforms dedicated to testing in vitro and ex-vivoIn the context of the clinical evaluation of the signs of aging correlated to hormonal changes, and to menopause in particular, this article sheds light on the clinical evaluation of the signs of aging correlated to hormonal changes, and to menopause in particular.

How do we clinically assess the change in skin caused by the hormonal changes associated with menopause?

Intrinsic skin aging correlated to hormonal deficiency, particularly related to menopause, is similar to age-related aging. Its main manifestations are progressive, with great inter-individual variation. The skin changes that appear indicate the skin's hormonal dependence and can lead to a decrease in self-esteem and well-being. Extrinsic aging, due to environmental factors often called exposome - sun, tobacco, alcohol, pollution, diet, sleep, stress - represents about 70 % of aging. It modifies the genetic capital, but it is reversible. SkinObs summarizes the different evaluation options.

We can categorize the signs of skin aging due to menopause as follows:

  • Color and pigmentation of the skin: redness, radiance, age spots, homogeneity and radiance of the complexion,
  • Skin topography: crow's feet, furrows, roughness,
  • Hydration and NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factors): epidermis, dermis
  • Skin structure: density, thickness, epidermal junction, barrier function,
  • Volume: Facial slackening, oval of the face, bags, eyelids,
  • Biomechanical properties: firmness, tone, elasticity, collagen, etc.

Studies on the perception of cutaneous hormonal aging show that the category of skin care for postmenopausal skin is similar to that of care related to aging factors, including intrinsic hormonal changes. In addition to the geographical variations of their regulatory status according to each country, their performance generally announces several effects related to various cellular and biochemical mechanisms (microbiota, keratinocytes, fibroblasts, melanocytes, nerve receptors...)

  • Targeted on action mechanisms: Hydration, skin relief, collagen, cell communication, dermal-epidermal junction... 
  • Localized: wrinkles, oval of the face, neck, hands..,
  • Focused on different skin depths: epidermis, dermo-epidermal junction, dermis

In addition to their classic effectiveness on the skin's surface and structure, skin care products dedicated to menopausal skin provide improvements in emotional well-being and sensoriality. The cutaneous signs of aging continue to be studied with great precision, to provide tangible proof of the product's performance. The promise is generally a recovery of tissue elasticity, volume and facial shape. The table below summarizes the various associated claims.

SKINOBS skin composition - Industrial processes - Product info

How to objectify "pro-aging" skin care for skin affected by hormonal changes related to menopause?

If we integrate the notion of "well-being" in the proposed treatments, the term "Pro-age" or "plain-age" seems more appropriate than "anti-aging", because it takes into account the condition of the skin in its entirety. Numerous pro-ageing performance analysis solutions are available to cosmetic brands to clinically demonstrate the effects of their products via biometrological and scientific measurements.

The identification of the properties of these "pro-age" products is based on a sensory, sometimes neurosensory and holistic approach. Feelings and impacts on quality of life are measured. Five main categories of tests are available to investigators: consumer tests, sensory or emotional analyses, biometrological studies, and clinical scores.

SkinObs has listed in the table below the devices used to validate the performance of skincare products to combat hormonal changes caused by menopause, via quantitative, semi-quantitative or imaging objectification. The protocol can be multiparametric, depending on the effects to be studied.

SKINOBS Table of solutions for ageing allegation changes- Industrial Processes - Product info

We remind you that it is essential to take the time, with the test laboratories, to design each protocol and to define precisely the inclusion criteria, the kinetics of the time measurements, the treatment conditions, and the most suitable instrumental method.

Perspectives on the evolution of evaluation processes

Skin imaging, from the centimeter to the nanometer scale, is increasingly crucial. It allows to measure with great precision the different elements and structures of the skin: water, lipids, dermal-epidermal junction, extracellular matrix, fibers etc. 

These various highly technical biometrological measurements lead to a connection between technology and the new digital uses of personalization, from the store to the bathroom. This connection between objectification and the digital way of choosing and buying can bring cosmeticians closer to the reality of marketing. Whether for aging, radiance, biomechanical properties or hydration, the different techniques bring higher resolution, wider measurement area, non-invasive, non-contact and direct methods. Algorithms and statistics will be the key success factors of these new technologies.

Virtual makeup product fittings with ModiFace

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques An iPhone with virtual make-up testing capabilities optimized by ModiFace.

L'Oréal and Facebook announce a technology integration that allows shoppers on Instagram to virtually try on makeup products using ModiFace, L'Oréal's augmented reality and artificial intelligence company.

With this latest step in their collaboration, ModiFace and AR Spark, Facebook's augmented reality platform, bring shoppers the experience of a highly realistic virtual fitting. By browsing a brand's Instagram page, consumers will be able to try on a product before buying.

The service is already available for lipsticks from NYX Professional Makeup, Urban Decay, Maybelline New York and Lancôme. It will soon be extended to other brands and product categories.

"ModiFace has been a pioneer in augmented reality, developing realistic and accurate virtual fitting experiences for over a decade. At a time when "social commerce "* is becoming increasingly popular with consumers, we're delighted to take this next step in our collaboration with Facebook, making the shopping experience on Instagram both easy and fun."says Parham Aarabi, CEO and co-founder of ModiFace.

"Using augmented reality for virtual fittings is a new breakthrough for Facebook that makes online shopping easier. Thanks to this collaboration with L'Oréal, consumers will have an even more personalized shopping experience with their favorite brands, where they already find their inspiration: Instagram."notes Sue Young, General Manager of Spark AR, Facebook.

Facebook will also integrate ModiFace's virtual fitting into new advertising formats on the Facebook App.

* online sales via social networks

CSR Award for Exsymol at the 10th International Responsible Film Festival of Deauville 2021

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques Woman's hand caressing purple flowers in a field at the 10th Deauville International Responsible Film Festival, winner of the CSR Prize for Exsymol.

Exsymol won a silver award at the Deauville International Responsible Film Festival for its film "Plongée en immersion au cœur de la politique RSE". Launched at the end of 2020 and produced by Subliminal Pictures, this film reveals the company's responsible corporate citizenship policy in images (watch it here : https://vimeo.com/490662580).

A finalist among more than 500 international films, the film won in the "Sustainable Production and Circular Economy" category. Exsymol's responsible policy has been deployed since its creation almost 50 years ago, thanks to its atypical and exceptional location in the heart of Monaco. With this film, Exsymol wanted to demonstrate its CSR commitment, and more broadly that of the Principality, and its ability to innovate for the responsible beauty of tomorrow. 

Firmenich launches Scentmate: an AI-powered platform for independent brands

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetics Firmenich launches Scentmate: an AI-based platform for independent brands.

Firmenich, the global fragrance and flavor company, introduces Scentmate, the first AI-powered platform that optimizes and simplifies co-creation to deliver successful fragrance compositions to entrepreneurs and independent brands. Serving a dynamic market, Scentmate provides instant access to unique scents, putting perfumers and experts at the customer's disposal throughout the process.

"As creators of positive emotions and at the forefront of innovation for over 125 years, our mission is to bring quality fragrances to every consumer, says Ilaria Resta, President of Firmenich's Fragrance Division. Today, we are excited to launch the first innovative fragrance creation solution tailored for entrepreneurs and independent brands. We went from concept to execution in less than a year, while leveraging Firmenich's best-in-class assets, including more than 50 years of collecting fragrance data, to revolutionize the way people smell."

Scentmate is reinventing the traditional method of fragrance creation to provide unrestricted access to creativity, expertise and resources. The streamlined, digitalized briefing process allows clients to define all necessary parameters. Scentmate then recommends the best fragrance creations, developed by perfumers, reducing a process that used to take weeks to a few minutes.

Alfonso Alvarez-Prieto, CEO of Scentmate, adds: "Scentmate enables customers to match their creative ideas with the ideal fragrance. We offer an intuitive, easy-to-use digital platform that, combined with human sensibility, makes it easy to co-create the best fragrance to win consumer favor, while greatly optimizing market entry. Behind this platform are the most recognized perfumers, one of the largest databases related to fragrances, consumer information from around the world and a young and dynamic team fully dedicated to this mission."

In addition, Scentmate streamlines order processing to allow customers to optimize their supply chain: sample requests, orders and payments are made online, and quantities are adjustable. Samples arrive within 48 hours and orders are processed within five days. Scentmate also provides compliance and regulatory guidance tailored to specific product categories and geographic areas.

Eastman's Cristal One, resins used in FusionPKG packaging

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques A white jar with a FusionPKG lid in Eastman's Cristal One resins.
Eastman expands its portfolio of sustainability offerings with Cristal™ One recyclable resins for cosmetics.

Eastman announced the launch of Eastman Cristal One, a line of Resin Identification Code 1 (RIC1) resins designed to meet the rigorous requirements of thick-walled packaging for luxury cosmetics. These innovative products are the first RIC1 materials to produce clear jars up to 12mm thick.

Fusion Press Release- Industrial processes -

FusionPKG, an Aptar Beauty + Home company, is launching several new products using Cristal One as well as other sustainable resins from Eastman's Cristal Renew line with high levels of certified recycled content. Cristal One will also be available as Cristal One Renew with up to 50 % of certified recycled content generated by Eastman's molecular recycling technologies. These products provide both certified recycled content and RIC1 recyclability while giving brands the design freedom they need.

"With Cristal One recyclable resins and the broad portfolio of Eastman Renew materials, FusionPKG can now offer a more sustainable solution without compromise across its extensive portfolio, said Daniel Campbell, senior sustainability and packaging engineer, FusionPKG. What's really remarkable about these resins is how they allow us to create the crystal clear, premium packaging we're known for, while supporting key sustainability initiatives for our brands." 

FusionPKG is launching five of its distinctive custom packaging designs with Eastman's Cristal line, including the Max Out series. The Space Max collection includes an airless bottle, a modern ampoule dropper, an atmospheric bottle and a bottle with a "crowbar" applicator in Cristal Renew, as well as a skin care jar in Cristal One.

Through FusionPKG BeautyLab, FusionPKG's turnkey division, the company can create innovative formulations to provide a total solutions approach. FusionPKG also plans to work with brands to develop custom packaging using the full line of Cristal Renew with certified recycled content and Cristal One.

"We are thrilled to be working with FusionPKG to launch Cristal One and Cristal One Renew. FusionPKG's sleek, cutting-edge design sensibility was exactly what we were looking for to bring an entirely new product to market, said Tara Cary, market development manager for cosmetics and personal care at Eastman. With the Cristal One portfolio, we are able to bring together the best of both worlds - recycled and recyclable - while delivering the superior performance that innovative brands and design houses like FusionPKG demand for their packaging today." 

Cristal One meets California/ASTM guidelines for RIC1 designation and has achieved APR Critical Guidance recognition for recyclability. Additional recognitions are under review and will be available soon. The Cristal One line includes Cristal One, Cristal One Pro and Cristal EN, as well as corresponding Renew materials, providing brands with options to meet a wide variety of application needs for skin care and color cosmetics with wall thicknesses up to 12 mm.

Seppic partners with UEBT in the "Action for Nature & People" initiative

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques Two women holding baskets in a field as part of the "Action for Nature & People" initiative supported by Seppic and UEBT.

Seppic, through its subsidiary Serdex, has been an active member of the UEBT (Union for Ethical BioTrade) since 2008, and has joined forces with over 40 other companies as part of the Action for Nature & People initiative. This joint commitment aims to promote and develop a responsible sourcing model for ingredients derived from biodiversity, while respecting people and the environment.

Serdex contributes to this through its commitment to preserving biodiversity, respecting traditional know-how, improving the living conditions of local populations and developing strong partnerships with local suppliers in plant collection areas. In doing so, Serdex guarantees a responsible supply chain, in line with the principles of the Nagoya Protocol, and provides its customers with ingredients that respect biodiversity and local communities.

Serdex meets 96.5 % of UEBT membership requirements, and has again improved its score from the last audit*. UEBT requirements apply to all sourcing activities through which ingredients are produced, processed and sourced. Serdex has chosen to improve the ethical practices of its Centella Asiatica supply chain in Madagascar, covering the entire chain from suppliers to the more than 3,000 pickers involved.

Jean Baptiste Dellon, Managing Director of Seppic, comments: "Our commitment to developing a responsible sourcing model reflects Seppic's CSR ambition, as expressed in its "Caring" program in which Seppic pledges to contribute to living in a healthy environment and creating sustainable relationships with its stakeholders."

*UEBT membership audits carried out in 2017 and 2020 by Ecocert on the basis of the Ethical BioTrade standard.

Cannabis cultivation in France and hemp valorization: challenges and opportunities for innovation

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The editorial staff
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site-industries-cosmetiques A bottle of CBD oil next to a cannabis plant highlights the potential for innovation and opportunities in the cultivation and valorization of hemp in France.

Today, hemp production in France is limited to industrial applications. A change in regulations is expected this year to allow hemp tops to be harvested and valorized.

At the same time, the Agence nationale de sécurité du médicament et des produits de santé (ANSM) is launching an experiment to demonstrate the benefits of cannabis for medical purposes. This raises the question of how to structure a specialized French cannabis industry with highly technological production constraints.

In this fast-changing context, Innov'Alliance aims to explore and anticipate new avenues of innovation, from hemp and cannabis production to the valorization of cannabinoids in nutraceutical, cosmetic and food drink "wellness" markets.

The competitiveness cluster is organizing a technical day on 1er July, in Avignon, on this theme, enabling participants to discover the "Hemp of possibilities" and explore the challenges and avenues for innovation. Numerous issues will be addressed, from hemp and cannabis production to the formulation and valorization of CBD and cannabinoids.

To find out about the programclick here

The beautiful photo illustrating this information comes from Hinterland co. Thanks to Erin Stone and photographer Julia Teichmann 

L'Oréal announces the production of the first plastic cosmetic bottle derived from Carbios enzymatic recycling.

By
Kristel Milet
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site-industries-cosmetiques Five orange bottles are lined up on a table in a laboratory to present L'Oréal's first cosmetic container made from enzymatic recycling of Carbios.

 L'Oréal announces the production of the world's first fully recycled plastic cosmetic bottle thanks to the enzymatic technology from Carbios and aims to put the bottles resulting from this breakthrough innovation into production in 2025. Biotherm would thus be the first Group brand to launch a product in this bottle of the future. 

Carbios' technology, a pioneer in the development of biotechnological processes for PET* plastic recycling, paves the way for the manufacture of new products from 100% recycled materials thanks to its enzymatic process. It has the advantage of being able to process all types of PET - clear, colored, opaque and multilayer - and to recycle these plastics ad infinitum. 

Jacques Playe, L'Oréal Packaging and Development Directordeclares : "We have been working with Carbios since 2017 to develop this first bottle based on enzymatically recycled PET, an alternative technology to mechanical recycling. Today, we are pleased to announce its feasibility in the pilot phase, and are delighted to be able to create, with our partners, the packaging of the future. This is a promising innovation for the future, which illustrates our commitment to bringing to market packaging that is more respectful of the planet, and which is part of a circularity approach we have been pursuing for over 15 years". 

Giulio Bergamaschi, Biotherm International General Managerdeclares : "Biotherm is a pioneer in eco-responsible cosmetics, and has placed sustainable packaging and waste reduction at the heart of its strategy. We are delighted to be the first cosmetics brand to produce an entirely recycled bottle thanks to Carbios' breakthrough technology". 

In 2017, to promote the development of innovative plastic recycling solutions, L'Oréal created a consortium with Carbios to industrialize its technology, which was joined by Nestlé Waters, PepsiCo and Suntory Beverage & Food Europe. Since 2019, L'Oréal has acquired a stake in Carbios through its private equity fund BOLD Business Opportunities for L'Oréal Development. 
With "L'Oréal for the Future", L'Oréal's new sustainable development program to 2030, the Group has taken a new step towards a profound transformation of its activities and has set itself ambitious new targets, particularly in terms of packaging: 

  • - by 2025, 100 % of its plastic packaging will be refillable, reusable, recyclable or compostable; 
  • - by 2030, 100 % of plastic packaging will be of recycled or biosourced origin, and the Group will no longer use any virgin plastics of fossil origin; 
  • - 100 % of ingredients used in biobased formulas and materials will be traceable to sustainable sources by 2030. 

To achieve these goals, L'Oréal works with several strategic partners to ensure it has the best technologies available. In addition to Carbios, L'Oréal collaborates in particular with Albéa, a leader in cosmetic packaging, with whom the Group developed in 2019 the first cosmetic tube incorporating FSC-certified cardboard; Purecycle, to produce polypropylene (PP) recycled by solvolysis; and LanzaTech and Total, with whom L'Oréal announced in October 2020 a world first: the production of a polyethylene (PE) cosmetic bottle designed from recycled industrial carbon emissions. 

*PET : PET plastic (polyethylene terephthalate) is the most commonly recycled plastic. 

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