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Albéa, Erpro 3D Factory and HP Inc: innovation through 3D printing

By
Nicolas Gosse
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site-industries-cosmetiques A man in a lab coat uses Erpro 3D Factory to innovate with 3D printing alongside HP Inc.

Two years after integrating 3D printing technology into its services, Albéa has reached a new milestone in the development of 3D cosmetic packaging solutions, thanks to a partnership with start-up Erpro 3D Factory. The company is currently developing applications exploiting industry-leading HP Multi Jet Fusion 3D printing technology, combined with Erpro's know-how in cosmetics production. As a result, the first generation of cosmetic parts, designed and produced to take advantage of the advanced capabilities of the HP platform, is currently in the final stages of development. Albéa will be launching the first products very shortly.

"HP and Erpro's expertise allows us to take 3D printing in cosmetics to the next level. The fine detail that HP technology is capable of delivering is astonishing, says Yann Crapet, 3D Project Manager at Albéa. We can offer our customers fast-to-market solutions combined with unprecedented custom design, for both small and large quantities."

In the initial phase of this joint effort, Albéa, Erpro and HP Inc worked closely together to design and produce applications that met the regulatory standards of the cosmetics industry, while offering a high level of quality, cost and reliability. By offering extreme detail and massive customization, the benefits of the design proved essential to the development process.

"As we've seen in consumer goods and other markets such as automotive and healthcare, the mass production of 3D printing applications has the potential to truly revolutionize industries," said Virginia Palacios, responsible for managing Multi Jet Fusion, HP Personalization and 3D Printing solutions. This groundbreaking work with Albéa and Erpro opens up astonishing possibilities for the world's leading cosmetics brands. The advanced capabilities offered by Multi Jet Fusion enable incredibly detailed design, precision quality and first-class performance for parts such as cosmetic brushes and more."

As the end-user of the machine, Erpro improved and customized its manufacturing processes to support the industrial production of small parts designed by Albéa.

3D printing technology continues to evolve rapidly beyond prototyping, offering flexible options for highly customized mass production of final parts and opening up new perspectives for brands and manufacturers, particularly in the cosmetics sector : "Today, this technology is unlocking many manufacturing applications, with unprecedented precision and reliability." explains Quentin Bertucchi, R&D Process Engineer at Erpro Group. "We are now able to produce even larger quantities in a shorter time. Advancing the industrialization of 3D printing with HP and Albéa and exploring all the possibilities of this technology is an exciting experience."adds Cyrille Vue, CEO of Erpro.

Albéa joins the declaration on extended producer responsibility for packaging

Albéa was the first cosmetics packaging manufacturer to sign the Ellen MacArthur Foundation's New Plastics Economy Global Commitment. Three years later, it was one of some 100 companies to endorse Ellen MacArthur's declaration in favor of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for the packaging industry.

"This declaration is an important and necessary step in the journey towards circularity, and we're proud to be part of it, says Gilles Swyngedauw, VP Sustainable Development & Innovation. We are rethinking the plastic packaging value chain with the aim of having a 100 % circular Albéa product portfolio by 2025. However, we are convinced that such a change will only happen if we work closely with all industry stakeholders. Together, we need to put in place efficient systems that enable packaging waste to be collected and regenerated."

High-yield production of biobased ingredients in plant chloroplasts

By
Nicolas Gosse
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site-industries-cosmetiques Biobased ingredients efficiently produced in plant chloroplasts.

A world first for Algentech, a specialist in cutting-edge genome-editing technologies and synthesis tools. Its technology enables the production of proteins and nucleic acids in plant chloroplasts. A quantum leap for many industrial sectors seeking new biosourced production routes.

Yesterday, the journal Nature Plants published the process patented by Algentech. The article describes for the first time in the world an autonomous expression system in the form of minichromosomes that have the ability to self-replicate in chloroplasts. The method does not require integration of the genes of interest into the chloroplast genome. It therefore generates a nucleic acid and protein expression level 5 to 10 times higher than in the case of insertion.

Plants and algae transformed into green factories

In addition to a very high production yield, up to 70 % of total soluble proteins, the system offers the possibility of transferring biosynthetic pathways in their entirety: where existing technologies are limited to the integration of a few genes, Algentech's tool achieves the performance of simultaneous expression of 15 to 20 genes in plant cells. This technological leap forward makes it the tool of choice for synthetic biology and green chemistry applications in a wide range of sectors, including the production of peptides, nucleic acids, enzymes, therapeutic compounds and other molecules of interest to the pharmaceutical, cosmetics, food and energy industries...

Based on chloroplasts, the organelles responsible for photosynthesis in plant cells, Algentech's proprietary technology is comparable to biological production systems in microorganisms, but with a notable advantage: using sunlight as an energy source while consuming carbon dioxide (CO2). Plants are thus transformed into veritable green production factories, sustainable and respectful of the environment. Tested in tobacco, soya, carrots and duckweed, the system is transferable to a wide range of terrestrial plant species, and potentially also to photosynthetic algae, which have chloroplasts at the heart of their cells.

Algentech, a bioproduction player open to industrial partnerships

Awarded the Genopole® label and supported by Bpifrance, the company has entered into industrial and academic partnerships. Its platform will be used to produce natural biopesticide molecules for the agrochemical industry and enzymes for the biofuels sector. It is open to new collaborations to extend the scope of applications and increase production capacity. For example, the technology is promising for the biological production of squalene, useful in the cosmetics industry and as a vaccine adjuvant, or enzymes involved in the production of biohydrogen, a renewable energy source contributing to the energy transition.

"This technological breakthrough enables Algentech to position itself as a biomanufacturing player in France at a time when Europe's industrial production policy, which showed its shortcomings during the Covid pandemic, is changing, says Isabelle Malcuit, General Manager and Scientific Director. It responds to the need to strengthen and diversify industrial capacities at national level in a sustainable and environmentally-friendly way".

Make Up For Ever has entrusted the packaging of its Aqua Resist Brow Fixer to Texen Beauty Partners

By
Kristel Milet
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site-industries-cosmetiques Make Up For Ever has entrusted the packaging of its Aqua Resist Brow Fixer eyebrow gel to Texen Beauty Partners.

In MAKE UP FOR EVER's new Aqua Resist eyebrow range, Brow Fixer is distinguished by a texture in five creamy, intense, long-lasting shades, applied with a beveled micro-brush to discipline and sculpt the eyes. 

Texen Beauty Partners was responsible for the turnkey development, which included a customized standard pack and, as the product's centerpiece, a fine, beveled brush that underwent particularly demanding sourcing. Its 45° curvature and ergonomic cap, designed to the right length, promise a precise gesture for exact eyebrow definition. 

The 5 parts that make up the product are injected in various materials, chosen for their effectiveness and resistance. The 5-ml bottle is injected in black. The logo and tint are screen-printed in white.

Clever Beauty plays the transparency card with Sorga technologie

By
Nicolas Gosse
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site-industries-cosmetiques A bottle of Clever Beauty nail polish featuring a QR code, transparently highlighting Sorga technology.

Anti-waste varnishes that increase the quantity used by up to 20 %, chemical solvents replaced by natural materials, the inclusion of disabled workers in order preparation, soon a 100 % organic, refillable and recyclable mascara: start-up Clever Beauty is shaking up the make-up industry with its commitment to promoting a responsible economy. "We wanted to bring the transparency and sincerity our customers expect," stresses Maëva Bentitallah, the brand's president.

A tamper-proof digital passport for every product

Clever Beauty wanted to go one step further by sharing its commitments with its community of consumers on a product-by-product basis. It chose Sorga technology to create tamper-proof digital passports for each product, from which it manages its information in real time. For its customers, the passport can be read on each product using the QR code reader on their smartphone, with no application to download and no identification required.

Sorga technology is a low-power public blockchain solution developed from exclusive CNRS patents, and made available to brands by MAP Émulsion.

Technology and support

"MAP Émulsion didn't just put the technology in place for us, like too many online solutions. Above all, it's a team that backs up the technology with services and business expertise in beauty and marketing.continues Maëva Bentitallah.

For his part, Philippe Guguen, President of MAP Émulsion, admits that "it's indicative of the new generation of our customers, who push us to take up a number of challenges. Here, the choice of the marker that opens the Sorga passport on your smartphone had to meet the environmental commitments of Clever Beauty, which doesn't have a case to print this marker on. So we chose a biodegradable sticker. Depending on the context, we adapt the marker: QR code, RFID, NFC, or even a photo print of the chaos of the material on a product detail for luxury brands that suffer from the scourge of counterfeiting. Sorga's tamper-proof digital passports can be called up by a wide variety of product markers."

Clever Beauty chose the QR code for its universality and ease of use. With an adapted design. The Sorga marker takes the form of an elegant diamond that can be read by any QR code reader. " It immediately looks much better on a beauty product!"admits Maëva Bentitallah.

Clever Beauty not only provides information on its commitments, but also distributes advice in its passports. " It's reassuring to have direct access to the information and opinions behind the product before you buy it, explains Alice de Guyenro, customer and Made in France entrepreneur herself. Secondly, it's so much more practical to have visual explanations and video tutorials when using it. There's even a messaging system reserved for customers in the product passport."

In addition, we offer services such as opinion gathering. Maëva Bentitallah explains: "Up to now, the reviews have concerned online shoppers. But that's only one in five beauty products in France. With Sorga, I can collect reviews wherever the product is purchased, it's blockchain-certified and I can really dispose of it as a brand."

Consumers therefore provide Clever Beauty with strategic feedback, to which Sorga adds useful statistics on the content they are interested in, where and when products are seen, and so on.

To find out more, Philippe Guguen, President of MAP Émulsion, gave us an interview published in our magazine Industries Cosmétiques (n°30 june 2021).

PCD will launch an edition in Milan in 2022 alongside the Packaging Première show

By
Kristel Milet
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site-industries-cosmetiques A man displays a bottle of perfume at a trade show in Milan.

Easyfairs, the international event organizer, today announces the launch of a new Italian edition of PCD, the world's leading trade show for beauty packaging. This new edition will be held alongside Packaging Première, the luxury packaging show, in Milan from May 24 to 26, 2022.

PCD Milan will bring together principals and packaging designers from the Italian and international perfumery, cosmetics and skincare markets with many of the world's most innovative packaging suppliers. Milan is the ideal location, as it lies at the heart of Italy's Cosmetic Valley, home to over 500 cosmetics companies and a center of excellence in the international perfumery and cosmetics sectors. 

The launch of the event builds on the dual heritage of Packaging Première and PCD, both part of the international Easyfairs network of packaging events.

Packaging Première was launched in 2017 and has quickly established itself as a benchmark event for the luxury goods sector around Milan. It brings together designers and developers of packaging for luxury goods in all sectors - including fashion, watches and jewelry, perfumes and cosmetics, delicatessen, wines and spirits and much more - with the market's leading suppliers of packaging materials and products.

PCD was launched in Paris in 2001, and is trusted by the packaging teams of the world's leading beauty brands as a source of inspiration and innovation for their products. The event offers a unique mix of renowned products and suppliers, numerous networking opportunities and inspiring conferences to help drive business and innovation in the beauty packaging sector.

Pierpaolo Ponchia, founder of Packaging Première and Managing Director of Easyfairs Italia, comments : " PCD Milan will bring an exciting new dimension to Packaging Première, with the addition of a strong focus on primary packaging for the beauty sector. The two events combined will reinforce Packaging Première's position as Italy's must-attend event for all those involved in premium and luxury packaging design." 

Josh Brooks, PCD Paris Event Director, comments : " We're delighted to bring PCD to Milan. We've seen a growing number of Italian visitors and exhibitors at our Paris event in recent years, and bringing the event to Milan will allow us to serve and connect our community on a new level. Packaging Première is an exceptional event and the ideal partner for the launch of PCD Milan"..

Powder cosmetics: two new products!

By
Nicolas Gosse
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site-industries-cosmetiques A tube of lip balm resting on a rock next to cosmetic powders.

Perlucine, a natural, zero-waste brand, presents two new powder cosmetics: a deodorant and a facial cleanser.

Based between the Côte de Jade and the Golfe du Morbihan, Perlucine is developing a short product range based on its main local and natural marine resource: wild white oyster shell powder.

The shells used in Perlucine's skincare products are those that are born and die naturally in the ocean, washing up on beaches as far as the eye can see during high tides. Their purity and dazzling whiteness are hand-picked and enhanced in a natural cosmetics range.

The deodorant powder (40-gram tube) is enriched with a natural prebiotic active ingredient that reduces odor formation, respects the skin microbiome and lets the skin breathe. According to Perlucine, effective all day long, it cares for underarms, leaving them soft and delicately scented.

Facial cleansing powder gently removes impurities. Its ultra-fine oyster shell gently cleanses and remineralizes the epidermis. Skin is soft and cleansed, with a radiant complexion. Available in 40-gram tubes, 100-gram refills and 4-kilo bulk packs.

Arcade Beauty joins the Convention of Companies for Climate (CEC)

By
Kristel Milet
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site-industries-cosmetiques A man in a suit and tie stands in front of a banner that reads Convention des Entreprises.

This July, 150 business leaders will begin an 8-month program based on a roadmap aligned with European objectives such as reducing greenhouse gas emissions by 55 % by 2030. By embarking on this adventure, Arcade Beauty is positioning itself and speaking out in line with its group-wide CSR strategy.

Arcade Beauty has just joined the pool of 150 companies recruited by the CEC. Through a dense and unifying program, the CEC intends to commit each of them to act for the ecological transition through its human and financial resources, its influence and its power of communication.

More than a CSR strategy

Under the leadership of Carl Allain, head of European operations, Arcade Beauty has begun drafting its own operational roadmap, with the aim of building a case for French and European political decision-makers. "Our already mature CSR charter will serve as an entry point for positioning ourselves within a collective debate on a new approach to ecological transition. Our visibility on the global market for samples and mini beauty products gives us a responsibility. It justifies our motivation to take up this challenge by adopting a model behavior that encourages clear, impactful decision-making, with the aim of becoming a demanding and ambitious player in the face of transformations in our ecosystem", he explains.
La Convention des Entreprises pour le Climat is a non-profit association under the French law of 1901, built on complete independence. Its aim is to encourage companies to involve their ecosystems in a global eco-responsible approach to major issues such as global warming, pollution and the geopolitical tensions affecting the living world. By signing a charter and drawing up its own roadmap, each company will be able to reinvent itself around new models and new performances, speak out and set an example.
On the program over the coming months: working sessions, debates, meetings with scientists, ecological transition experts and other facilitators who will be supporting the 150 participants.

Pochet du Courval creates Lalique White in Black

By
Nicolas Gosse
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site-industries-cosmetiques Eau de toilette blanche Haas featuring the elegance of Pochet du Courval and White in Black by Lalique.

With the aim of breaking the codes of classic masculinity and celebrating the casual-chic elegance of today's generation, Lalique has launched Lalique White in Black, an eau de parfum characterized by a magnetic, contrasting fragrance.

In line with the brand's bold, innovative look, the bottle designed by Pochet du Courval features a matte black "chalkboard" finish that can be written on with a chalk pencil. 

This makes the bottle infinitely customizable, allowing the user to express his or her uniqueness.

The expertise of Pochet du Courval (Gamaches site, expert in finishing) has made it possible to apply a new "blackboard" lacquering material to the traditional Lalique bottle, which Pochet manufactures in particular.

Cosfibel signs its first e-commerce box for Scents of Wood

By
Nicolas Gosse
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site-industries-cosmetiques A wooden box containing a bottle of wine and other objects inside for Senteurs de Bois.

Scents of Wood is making a remarkable and exclusive entry into the world of perfumery. Its fragrance Plum in Cognac, recently awarded by the Fragrance Foundation in the category of extraordinary perfumes, is a testimony to this.

To accompany this launch, Cosfibel Premium has put its design expertise at the service of a packaging subject to the multiple constraints of e-commerce. The result is a sober and elegant box and its associated shipper to offer customers a beautiful "unboxing experience". Scents of Wood is an exclusive brand inspired by the essences and sensuality of wood and supported by the New York magazine Visionaire. With it, Fabrice Croisé addresses olfactory aesthetes through a sensory journey rooted in nature. In a collector's spirit, this range of products is composed of perfumes, candles and a booklet. Produced in limited edition, it is available by subscription and distributed exclusively by mail order.

Cosfibel takes on the e-commerce exercise

The first challenge was to design a light, sober, practical box evoking the sensoriality of wood. To achieve this, Cosfibel's design studio created a paper and cardboard box with a drawer capable of reproducing the look and relief of a tree bark through a combination of printing and varnishing. Inside, an EVA wedge is used to hold the products. However, this unglued wedge is easily removed to recycle the packaging. Also printed in black, the associated shipper is made of corrugated cardboard to remain light and strong.

Since the recent launch of its e-commerce collection, the Cosfibel group is responding to an increased demand from brands. This made-to-measure development confirms the group's entry into this segment, justified by its multi-material expertise and creativity in terms of marketing design.

Commercial launch of the Last brand

By
Nicolas Gosse
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site-industries-cosmetiques A launch ad featuring a row of colored nail polishes on a white background for the Last brand.

Global Bioenergies announces the launch of the Last make-up brand, the first long-lasting make-up range with over 90 % of natural origin. The range's 18 mascara, eyebrow mascara and eyeshadow references are now available at www.colors-that-last.com. Instrumental tests and clinical studies have demonstrated performance levels on a par with the best conventional products on the market: this is the first time that a brand with over 90 % of natural ingredients has achieved such performance.

"It's an important step that we've taken here: to create this range of very high-performance products with outstanding sensorial and color qualities, Global Bioenergies had to reinvent itself. We are demonstrating our concrete commitment to the environment by making naturalness possible in a cosmetics segment where it was still virtually absent".says Marc Delcourt, CEO of Global Bioenergies.

Numerous instrumental tests and clinical studies of tolerance and use were carried out by independent laboratories. The performance of the products in the range was compared with that of market benchmarks, in terms of hold, water resistance and transfer, as well as sensoriality and pleasure of application.

For each product category, these tests demonstrate 24-hour resistance, as well as waterproof properties and low levels of transfer.

Long-term tests (21 days), carried out under dermatological and ophthalmological control, validate tolerance to use. The sensorial qualities of the products are highly appreciated: for example, following blind tests, 85 % of women would like to continue using Last eyeshadows, and would recommend them to their friends and family, considering that regardless of the naturalness, the product is just as effective or better than their usual eyeshadow. MURIEL MORELLI

"The launch of the Last range of products is the culmination of 18 months' hard work in defining formulas, shades and packaging, then evaluating and industrializing them. Numerous tests speak for themselves: today, there's no longer any need to choose between performance and naturalness in make-up".says Muriel Morelli, in charge of product development.

"In creating Last, we wanted to put a certain optimism and driving energy at the heart of our proposition, initiating a movement that wears color loud and clear. The timing of the launch is ideal: Last's identity is in tune with our profound desire to rediscover intensity, relief and volume in our exchanges and means of expression. Our range is colorful, natural and respectful, formulated to last. We're proud of the results we've achieved, and we're not stopping there: an extension to the must-have lipsticks is already on the drawing board for this autumn".comments Romain Desfresnes, in charge of strategy, marketing and communications.

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